Molecular analysis of aggressive microdermabrasion in photoaged skin.

Objective: To investigate dermal remodeling effects of crystal-free microdermabrasion on photodamaged skin.
Design: Biochemical analyses of human skin biopsy specimens following microdermabrasion treatment in vivo.
Setting: Academic referral center.
Participants: Volunteer sample of 40 adults, aged 50 to 83 years, with clinically photodamaged forearms. Intervention Focal microdermabrasion treatment with diamond-studded handpieces of varying abrasiveness on photodamaged forearms and serial biopsies at baseline and various times after treatment.
Main Outcome Measures: Quantitative polymerase chain reaction, immunohistochemistry, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay were used to quantify changes in inflammatory, proliferative, and remodeling effectors of normal wound healing. Type I and type III procollagen served as the main outcome marker of dermal remodeling.
Results: Coarse-grit microdermabrasion induces a wound healing response characterized by rapid increase in induction of cytokeratin 16 and activation of the AP-1 transcription factor in the epidermis. Early inflammation was demonstrated by induction of inflammatory cytokines, antimicrobial peptides, and neutrophil infiltration in the dermis. AP-1 activation was followed by matrix metalloproteinase-mediated degradation of extracellular matrix. Consistent with this wound-healing response, we observed significant remodeling of the dermal component of the skin, highlighted by induction of type I and type III procollagen and by induction of collagen production enhancers heat shock protein 47 and prolyl 4-hydroxylase. Dermal remodeling was not achieved when microdermabrasion was performed using a medium-grit handpiece.
Conclusions: Microdermabrasion using a coarse diamond-studded handpiece induces a dermal remodeling cascade similar to that seen in incisional wound healing. Optimization of these molecular effects is likely the result of more aggressive treatment with a more abrasive handpiece.