How I Learned to Love Goat.

YOU never know where goat will take you. When I asked the smiley butcher at Jefferson Market, the grocery store near my apartment in the West Village, whether he had any goat meat, he told me: ''No. I got a leg of lamb, though -- I could trim it nice and thin to make it look like goat.'' I politely declined. We fell into conversation. I found myself telling him: ''Koreans think eating goat soup increases virility. It can lead to better sexytime.'' My new friend responded: ''My lamb does that a little. You won't want to every night, but maybe every other night.'' Reaching toward his counter to pick up a mound of hamburger, he paused to ask, ''It's for you, the goat?'' [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]