Sweet as Can Be: A buttermilk chess pie so good that it has followed a pastry chef around for more than a decade.

The article offers information on the solitary joys of a restaurant pastry chef arriving early in the kitchen, setting the stage for creative inspiration amidst the lingering scents of cleaning and coffee. Topics include the chef's ritual of exploring cookbooks for recipes and stories, the meticulous process of perfecting buttermilk chess pies, and the cultural reclamation of humble American desserts like pies and layer cakes in upscale dining.