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A new performance threshold in sport climbing: A change in how climbing trainers work?
- Source :
-
Science & Sports . Nov2022, Vol. 37 Issue 7, p656-658. 3p. - Publication Year :
- 2022
-
Abstract
- Previous research has shown that the finger flexor's occlusion threshold (OT) could be different among sport climbers when expressed as a percentage of their maximum finger force (OT%), and that there is no association between the OT% and the climberś ability level. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the possible association between the relative finger force applied at the OT% (rff-OT%) and climbing ability level. We approximated the finger flexor's OT of 34 sport climbers by finger hang endurance test analyses at different intensities between 35% and 85% of their individual maximum finger force on a previously individually adapted edge depth, and we valued their rff-OT% as the relative force they could perform at that intensity. We found a high correlation between the rff-OT% and climbing ability in elite climbers. These findings suggest that having an OT at the highest possible percentage is critical, in addition to having a high relative finger force, as this would enable climbers to express relative force at a wider range of intensities with favorable metabolic conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
Details
- Language :
- English
- ISSN :
- 07651597
- Volume :
- 37
- Issue :
- 7
- Database :
- Academic Search Index
- Journal :
- Science & Sports
- Publication Type :
- Academic Journal
- Accession number :
- 159743983
- Full Text :
- https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scispo.2022.01.004