La «nueva cultura del aceite» como eje de transformación en los territorios olivareros andaluces.

In the field of olive oil, two quality construction models currently coexist. One quality model based on the specific attributes of each territory and the traditional knowledge and other quality model based on rules and standards and on scientific-technical knowledge. The implementation of this second model implies that the different qualities of olive oil are determined, by regulation, through a sensory analysis, following organoleptic parameters. This article analyzes the transformations carried out in the olive oil territories to adapt to this model of regulated quality. Study the differential processes of appropriation of this "new olive oil culture" in different areas of Andalusia with a tradition rooted in the production of quality oil. The research has focused on three Local Olive Oil Systems of Andalusia that have a Protected Designation of Origin (Estepa y Puente Genil, Priego de Córdoba y Montoro- Adamuz). In the study, qualitative methodology has been applied based on fieldwork carried out during 12 months between 2015-2016. The techniques used were participant observation and semi-structured interviews with 178 key actors from the three territories. Results show that the success in the process of conversion to the "new olive oil culture" is linked to the territorialization of "expert" knowledge. It is essential that the tasting panel becomes an active actor of the territory and that the knowledge generated is accessible and feedback with the vernacular knowledge of the territory. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]