'Taste My Prosciutto,' He Said With a Drawl.

Focuses on long-aged country hams. Comments of commercial producer Rufus Brown, cure master at Johnston County Hams in Smithfield, North Carolina; Mention of traditional country hams from the South; Prosciutto-like uses of American country ham in New York City restaurants; U.S. government regulations for dry-cured hams; Stylistic differences between country ham and prosciutto, including how they are eaten; Views of country-ham producers.