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The aim of the article is to examine the representation of ageing in selected issues of the Polish women's magazine Twój Styl. With reference to Wolf's concept of the "beauty myth," the article argues that ageing is presented as a threat to women's psychological integrity. Although the theme of old age is rarely directly addressed in the magazines, its presence is implied in the advertised anti-age beauty products. Based on semiotic theory and Cognitive Metaphor Theory, the paper demonstrates that the advertising of anti-ageing beauty products serves the function of controlling ageing female bodies, which are positioned outside of the mainstream concept of femininity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the 1960s and 1970s, many women’s magazines had special sections for home dressmaking. At a time when ready-to-wear clothing was expensive, the sew-it-yourself pages had an important function to win over competition among female readers. Teenagers read the magazines in search of clothing designs to copy in order to dress according to the latest fashion. Despite the importance of such special sections, they have only been given a marginal place in the history of the popular press and in cultural studies. This article examines and discusses the role of dressmaking sections in women’s magazines in Sweden in the 1960s and 1970s. Based on analysis of the two largest Swedish women’s weeklies and interviews with readers and editors, the study highlights women’s ‘utilitarian reading’, which combines textual, visual, and material literacy, and thus contributes to an overlooked area within women's studies, fashion and media history. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article explores the role of homosocial communities in Love Story Magazine's fiction and editorial departments, focusing on the 30 March 1935 issue. The magazine's stories highlight the importance of female homosocial relationships in securing an appropriate romantic partner, emphasizing the qualities of an "ideal woman" for marriage. The editorial departments fostered a community among readers to help them navigate their own relationships, with advice columns addressing readers' romantic dilemmas and facilitating communication between same-sex readers. The magazine's structure and content reflect a consistent narrative that negotiates and upholds gender roles within a framework of homosociality, providing insight into how readers engaged with the idealized romance plots presented in the magazine. [Extracted from the article]

Copyright of Gumushane Universty Electronic Journal of the Faculty of Communication / Gümüshane Üniversitesi Iletisim Fakültesi Elektronik Dergisi is the property of Gumushane Universitesi Iletisim Fakultesi Elektronik Dergisi (e-GIFDER) and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The article introduces the concept of "design culture" and explores design as it is practiced and reflected upon in different parts of the world. It includes articles on various topics such as designing for racial justice, the use of cultural probes in design research, moral engagement in design, the relationship between design thinking and graphic design, period product advertising in women's magazines, collaborative problem-solving in design, the influence of language on design thinking, and the New European Bauhaus initiative. The article also includes a review of The Climate Book by Greta Thunberg and welcomes Xin Xiangyang as a new member of the editorial group. [Extracted from the article]

Graphic design, while a force for positive change, has played a role in perpetuating harmful societal norms. This article focuses on the design of period product advertising in Australian women's magazines, examining a century of advertising (1920–2020) to uncover visual patterns in messaging that have contributed to societal prejudices against menstruation. Three distinct themes were identified: describing periods as a disorder, coding the taboo, and keeping a secret. This research sheds light on the effect that graphic design and representation has on society and emphasizes the need for responsible graphic design practices in shaping a more inclusive and empathetic visual culture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Events unfolding around the COVID-19 pandemic have historical parallels, particularly relating to health disparities and health injustice; limited health information literacy; failure of the US federal government to launch an organized response and clearly inform the public; and widespread misinformation and disinformation, along with their health-damaging and life-threatening impacts. These themes have been prominent during earlier pandemics, including smallpox outbreaks and the 1918 influenza pandemic. In this article, we discuss these themes and findings from our exploratory investigation into how the 1918 influenza pandemic was portrayed in women's magazines, how extensive misinformation and disinformation circulated (especially patent medicine advertisements), and how libraries strove to overcome numerous challenges (similar to today's) to continue to meet the public's needs and help them navigate the flood of misinformation and disinformation. In conclusion, we discuss important lessons learned from previous pandemics that can help libraries to serve the public optimally during future pandemics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As the Covid-19 pandemic caused schools, workplaces, and childcare centres to close, pressures in the home increased. Much of the additional unpaid work required under these conditions was done by women. Most women's magazines at this time urged women to stay positive and develop wellbeing routines to help them flourish. This approach reinforces normative neoliberal subjectivity with its roots in therapeutic culture and the happiness industry. While the focus on self-care may seem empowering, it puts more pressure on women in times of upheaval. Based on a thematic analysis of pandemic-related content in Australia's most popular women's magazine, The Australian Women's Weekly, we identified three key themes: 'finding the silver lining', 'making lifestyle choices', and 'recognising hardships and social divides'. While self-responsibilising discourses were prominent, some articles acknowledged the broader structural issues impacting women, revealing a tension between competing discourses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This short article, based on a lecture, offers fragments for a genealogy of female entrepreneurship in the Global North. It argues that in business and management books and social texts, the entrepreneur has historically been overwhelmingly figured as male – as 'entrepreneurial man'. Yet, over the past few decades, encouraged by both gender mainstreaming and neoliberal feminism, the symbolic locus of entrepreneurialism in popular culture has increasingly gravitated towards women. It shows how we might trace a mediatised evolution of female entrepreneurialism and its ideologies: from tragic 1950s entrepreneurial stars, through to the plucky shoulder-padded heroines of women's magazines and films of the 1980s, through to the girlbosses, Instagram entrepreneurs and hustle culture of the present. What, it asks, is happening to the female entrepreneur in an era of neoliberal crisis? And what 'left feminist' alternatives to, or intersections with, this figure might be in our midst, or on the horizon? [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Within elite-led projects of ideological transformation, how do leaders encourage practices that reflect and reinforce the ideas, attitudes, and beliefs they are trying to make hegemonic? This article investigates how political elites use different mechanisms of subject formation as they attempt to replace one hegemonic ideology with another and to shape new subjects to match. Whereas leaders of the Mexican and Nicaraguan revolutions often approached creating "new women" through legislation and campaigns, the Cuban revolutionary elites leveraged their swift and broad control over mass media to complement institutional means of subject formation with discursive ones. I draw on careful qualitative analysis of 112 issues of the state-run women's magazine Mujeres (Women) to show how leaders combined both linguistic and visual discourse to promote the development of the socialist "new woman" by encouraging women to participate in a wide range of labor outside of the home and by assisting them as they adjusted to the new material realities of the immediate post-revolutionary period. Bringing mass media swiftly and fully under state control allows leaders to communicate the ideological attitudes and behaviors they wish to promote among the people, while limiting alternate conceptions of revolutionary subjecthood. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A recipe box collected by Winifred Kowalke of Madison, Wisconsin, in the first half of the 20th century provides a rare glimpse into domesticity in the first half of the twentieth century as technological developments, an evolving convenience-foods industry, and a thriving female network dramatically changed lives, especially those of middle-class women. A careful reading of the cards in the box discloses the impact of new technology on cooking methods, the influence of the emerging commercial market of manufactured foods on the content of the American diet, and the strength of women's networks in sustaining a vibrant female community. Most importantly, it is a story that reaches beyond the ideals presented in women's magazines and contemporary cookbooks to reveal the lived experiences of women in that period. Winifred Kowalke was civic minded. Her recipe box reinforces the image of a woman active in the community and knitted into an extensive, interlacing social network that encompassed a diversity of prominent Madisonians and local cooks. Her friends were community leaders, but their civic and social activities did not divorce them from the domestic world. Her civic and organizational lives melded with her domestic. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper examines continuity and change in the bases of recommendations about dishes to prepare and serve in the household in Britain between 1968 and 2016. Employing a content analysis of recipes in widely circulating women's magazines, it compares a sample of recipes from 2015–16 with ones from 1968 and 1992 analyzed previously. In this follow-up study, new data are collected, using the same coding frame, with findings interpreted through the same conceptual framework, to classify recommendations about domestic food preparation with reference to four "culinary antinomies" expressing symbolic, structural oppositions between (1) health and indulgence, (2) economy and extravagance, (3) convenience and care, and (4) novelty and tradition. The changing prevalence of these principles of recommendation is described. Discussion revolves around interpretation of the social significance of changing recommendations, modification of the conceptual framework, and methodological aspects of the measurement of social change. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The period between 1880 and 1914 was a critical time for the redefinition of high fashion as a form of art, with couture garments displayed at international exhibitions and couturiers like Paul Poiret claiming the legal protection applied to artworks for his fashion designs. At the same time, a massive expansion in illustrated journals and catalogs selling mass-produced garments offered new possibilities for graphic artists, including women trained in the applied arts by public and private colleges. These trends intersected in the figure of the female "fashion artist," who conceived new designs or presented them to the public—but did not stitch them. In some cases, this person was a designer working for a dressmaking firm or sample house, while others were copyists of existing garments. This article will analyze surviving documents produced by British women fashion artists; examine the life cycle of fashion artists, as revealed in census data; analyze the pathways for training and career development; and consider the ways in which fashion artists were discussed in women's magazines, both as role models for employment and as fashion mediators. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper explores how female subjectivities were constructed in the educational discourse in women’s magazines published in the Ottoman language from the first magazine that was published in 1869 until the promulgation of the Second Constitution Period in 1908 in the Ottoman Empire. The study draws on the concept of Occidentalism defined by Meltem Ahıska, as well as on Deniz Kandiyoti’s concept of patriarchal bargain. These concepts are used to identify and explain central tensions emerging in the Occidentalist fantasy in the educational discourse. I argue that, in the writings on women in women’s magazines of the late Ottoman period, we can see, first, the early traces of the Occidentalist fantasy and, second, how it is channelised to shape Ottoman women’s subjectivities within at least three tensions. I also argue that the ambivalent attitudes of the authors in these Occidentalist tensions operated as strategies for patriarchal bargaining for Ottoman women. Thus, this paper contributes to the understanding of the construction of womanhood in the late Ottoman period by showing the complexity embedded in the transnational spread and transformation of educational ideas related to women’s education. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Loanwords are lexical terms borrowed from foreign languages by transliterating the original sound of the borrowed words with the recipient language's consonants and vowels. This paper focuses on lexical borrowing in the Korean language from a diachronic perspective. Based on approximately 9,500 Korean loanwords extracted from a corpus of women's magazine articles of residential sections (the Korean Contemporary Residential Culture Corpus), we investigated the alteration of loanword usage from 1970 to 2015. Having introduced our definition of Korean loanwords in phonological and morphological terms, we performed statistical analysis particularly with type/token frequency and cultural/core loanwords, along with semantic analysis with Period Representative Loanword (PRL). We argue that, in addition to its gradual and rapid increase over time, Korean loanword usage underwent a remarkable evolution in the 1990s. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Launched in 1865, Bluszcz [Ivy] was an illustrated women's weekly which featured topical parenting issues in the context of ongoing social and cultural changes, the arrival of new technologies and modern tendencies in the arts and science. In tune with the latest trends in education, the weekly propagated a new approach to parenting and schooling. While upbringing should be based on at least elementary knowledge of the child's psychology, educational institutions should open up to democratic reforms. The whole society need to be involved in the process of character shaping of the young generations of Poles. It was a task, the writers of Bluszcz insisted, inherent to a patriotic commitment to the future of the nation. The article presents a qualitative analysis of the parenting themes featured in Bluszcz in 1905-1918, notably child's development, parenting problems, education of girls and women and the character of a good teacher/educator. Apart from regular health and hygiene advice, information on children with special care needs and presentation of latest educational trends, the magazine would also publish discussions about the ways of inculcating desirable values in children and young people. The special focus of this article is, however, on its presentation of vocational education and its handling of the situation of women being pushed to find new roles for themselves in a modern world. The author shows how Bluszcz tried to convince its female readers that the purpose of upbringing was to prepare a young person for a life that combines self-reliance, a useful role in society and self-realization, i.e. developing one's own talents, passions and interests. Inspired by that mission, the editors and writers wrote about access to education (in the broad sense of the word), the role of parents in the nurturing and education of their children, in organizing small children's free-time activities and taking care of their hygiene and health. Undoubtedly, Bluszcz had the ambition to stimulate the social engagement of its women readers and encourage them to break down educational barriers, fight social pathologies and find the right approach towards children with special needs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Using positioning analysis we examine how women entrepreneurs construct their entrepreneurial identities in conversations with journalists. The data consists of every interview with women entrepreneurs in every Latvian monthly women's magazine over a 30-year period. Eleven countries in Eastern Europe, including Latvia, broke away from the communist regime in the 1990s and embraced neoliberal and entrepreneurial values that rely on the use of agency in a free market and where individuals were considered autonomous agents, no longer constrained by gender inequalities and power imbalances. However, an analysis shows that identity constructions by women entrepreneurs have been built on neo-conservative assumptions regarding gender. The default option expressed in the magazines reveals that entrepreneurship is normatively masculine, and the entrepreneurial identity that is on offer for women is either as a 'secondary entrepreneur' or a 'failed woman'. The post-feminist conception of a woman who can have it all, i.e. both a successful business career and a traditional feminine identity with a happy family life, is absent in the interviews. When neoliberalism entered Latvia and merged with neo-conservative gender roles, a specific Eastern European postfeminist regime emerged where neither entrepreneurship nor structural change can be seen as challenging the prevailing patriarchal gender order. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article "Different from the Others: German and Dutch Discourses of Queer Femininity and Female Desire, 1918–1940" explores the history of sexuality in the German-speaking world during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The author, Cyd Sturgess, focuses on the link between non-normative sexual behaviors and gender expression, particularly in relation to queer femininity and female desire. Sturgess challenges the assumption that feminine women who desired other women were marginalized or inconceivable figures, and instead seeks to counter the cultural dismissal of femininity. The article examines three main discourses - socio-medical, journalistic, and literary - and compares the experiences of Berlin and Amsterdam, highlighting the unique aspects of each city's queer culture and the influence of gender conventions. Sturgess also emphasizes the importance of including non-queer resources in historical studies of the queer past and explores the role of literature in disrupting traditional gender roles and giving sexual agency to women. Overall, the article encourages readers to question dominant discourses and consider the potential of less overtly queer spaces and discourses in understanding women's desire. [Extracted from the article]

The question how pro-women elements became possible in the state-sponsored movements despite the prevalence of state patriarchy in Maoist China has been on scholars' radar for a long time. Previous studies answered it through researching the nature of various women's groups in the state. Some argued that women's groups were passive followers of the central political agendas, whereas others contended that women's groups exhibited autonomy in creating anti-patriarchy cultural front. Results are diverse partly because they focused on different women's groups. While findings above greatly advanced our understanding of roles of women's groups in Maoist China, few have examined how women's groups acted strategically in different political upheavals, either in complicity or in defiance of state patriarchy. To fill the gap, this research uses the All-China Women's Federation (ACWF)—a national women's group as an example—and investigates its adopted gender discourse and cultural strategies in different times of Maoist China. Drawing on content analysis of ACWF's publication—the Women of China (1955–1965)—this research finds that the capacity of gender discourse to separate itself from class-centered politics (flexibility) and to challenge patriarchal conventions (strength) varied across historical periods. Along with the variation are different cultural strategies. Results above unveil a more complicated relationship between the women's group (i.e., ACWF) and the state in Maoist time. Meanwhile, while existing theories highlighted the contradictory relationship between class and gender discourse, results of this research suggest that a strong class discourse does not necessarily associate with a weak gender discourse in critiquing patriarchal conventions. Instead, with appropriate cultural strategies, gender discourse could utilize class-related topics to challenge patriarchal norms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article is an interview with Edward P. Jones, a renowned author known for his short stories and novel. Jones discusses his upbringing in Washington, D.C., his journey to becoming a writer, and the themes in his works. He emphasizes the importance of character development and the impact of personal experiences on his writing. Jones also touches on the role of literature in changing individual insight and the process of crafting his prose. The interview sheds light on Jones's perspective on writing and the surprises that come with literary success. [Extracted from the article]

Based on a qualitative content analysis of selected Irish local and national newspapers as well as women’s magazines, this paper explores discursive construction of convenience foods in Ireland during the 1960s and the 1970s, when such products started to gain in popularity. The article discloses various negative commonly occurring associations with convenience foods, such as the lack of flavor, unhealthiness, and high prices, and juxtaposes them with the positive characteristics, including saving time and labor and becoming modern. The research illustrates that discourses revealed ambivalent attitudes toward convenience foods, which were viewed as a blessing on the one hand and a curse on the other. The aim of this study is to add to the growing body of scholarship on Irish culinary history of the second half of the twentieth century, and ultimately, acknowledge the significance of various discourses in the context of discussion on convenience foods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This essay adopts a Critical Stylistic approach to uncover the linguistic mechanisms of implicit, (counter-)ideological meaning in the female-targeted periodical Good Housekeeping during the interwar period, and chiefly in its "Household Engineering" article series, where a complex discourse of modern housewifery, based on expert advice and industrial rationalisation, was shaped and negotiated through a rhetoric of scientific management and efficiency. In particular, this study investigates the discursive construction of the pervasive image of the female professional homemaker interested in the latest technological methods and innovations, by considering the role played by implicit meaning in shaping feminine roles and dominant gender ideologies. A Critical Stylistic analysis of presupposition and implicature in Good Housekeeping featured articles shows how these strategies reveal implicitly construed ideologies of womanhood, and particularly the way in which the magazine adopted linguistic devices to accommodate modern ideals of femininity without rejecting more traditional ones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Involved in representations that produce meanings according to the characteristics of each time and space, the human body is a record of history and culture. The media is one of the instruments that convey these meanings, and, as tennis was a sport considered beautiful and without physical contact, it represented a practice that did not disfigure the femininity of cisgender women. Therefore, this study sought to discuss how the sport of tennis was represented in a women's magazine in the mid-20th century in Brazil, analyzing the stereotypes behind such a representation. For this, we used the pages of the Brazilian magazine Jornal das Moças and defined the period in which it was distributed as being from 1914 to 1965. We identified different representations of the tennis practice that reinforced whiteness and specific stereotypes, such as cisness and heteronormativity, when encouraging women to be attractive to men, with tennis supporting the importance of women in the constitution of families and being an opportunity for women from ruling classes to leave the domestic environment. In addition, it involved aspects of health maintenance and forms of beautification capable of developing physical characteristics that received high praise in virtue of the type of femininity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the 1920s and 1930s, Latvian magazines featured original textile compositions by renowned male artists. Through my research of textile compositions of the famous Latvian artist and designer Jūlijs Madernieks, it became apparent that during this period, Latvian magazines also showcased textiles by lesser-known artists, particularly graduates of the Graphic Arts Workshop of the Art Academy of Latvia. Despite the significant role played by graphic artists in the formation and promotion of Latvian national textile art, their contributions remain largely unexplored. This research focuses on the popular women's magazine Zeltene, which presented numerous original textile designs by Elza Druja, Marija Muceniece, Otomija Freiberga, and Kristine Pāvulina. Another focal point of this study is the state of textile crafts education in the third decade of the 20th century and its role in encouraging women to engage in textile art or crafts. The contributions of women to Latvian textile art during the 1920s and 1930s have not received adequate scholarly attention due to the occupation of Latvia by the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany in the 1940s, as well as subsequent constraints imposed on Latvian art historians by the Soviet regime. This paper marks an initial stage in the development of Latvian textile art history, with a particular emphasis on female textile artists. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective/Context: This paper studies the first Chilean school newspapers led by women and the role of high school students as mediators of scientific knowledge at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th. The analysis is part of the expansion and modernization of the press and publishing industry, as well as the in$uence of positivism and the educational reforms that were implemented in Chile during that period, a context in which the ruling class considered scientific knowledge, both its development and access to it by the population, as a priority. Methodology: The article is based on the studies of historians of science who have understood audiences as active agents in generating new knowledge, problematizing categories such as expert, amateur and layman, and examining the types of relationships they sustained. This theoretical perspective is applied to analyzing the magazines of four women's high schools that took advantage of the valid study plans to access the university in the period and is complemented with other sources, such as prospectuses and relevant administrative documents. Originality: The study makes visible the role of women in science and, specifically, Chilean schoolgirls in this context, which have not been studied from the perspective presented here. Conclusions: Despite the lack of attention given to this population group in terms of scientific contribution, it is shown that high school students were active readers, disseminators and producers of knowledge, managing magazines, generating networks and circulating the knowledge beyond the walls of their educational establishments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Historia y Comunicación Social is the property of Universidad Complutense de Madrid and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Most studies of fashion history are devoted to the fashion tendencies and the illustrated fashion magazines of European countries, especially France. In the context of European fashion history, fashion images evolved from drawings and oil paintings to graphic prints, which gradually gained dominance and became the most important sources of visual representation of fashion, printed separately or included in books and periodicals. Kate Nelson Best's monograph presents the results of extensive research on the history of fashion journalism from its beginnings to the present, focusing on both fashion publications and fashion plates as an important part of the content alongside the text. In the eighteenth century in Europe, textual content dedicated to the topic of fashion with fashion plates began to be gradually included in various types of publications until a separate type of periodicals emerged as a fashion magazine. In the nineteenth century, there was an ever-increasing interest in the latest fashion in society. Readers obtained information from fashion plates with descriptions, which were the main sources that gave an idea of fashion tendencies. In his book, James Laver focuses on the heyday of French and English fashion magazine plates in the nineteenth century and explains that some of them achieved a high aesthetic value and, in general, they are valuable material for determining historical fashion tendencies. Karin J. Bohleke has analyzed the influence of French fashion magazines on the leading women's magazines in the range of American periodicals of the nineteenth century: Godey's Lady's Book (1830-1898) and Peterson's Magazine (1842-1898). Their fashion plates were copies of engravings from French fashion magazines, and the articles were translations. After comparing French and American fashion plates, Bohleke concludes that American fashion plates have been transformed by erasing religious, social and economic elements and preserving only the essence of French style. Edīte Parute researched the history of Riga fashion in the thirteenth-eighteenth century for her doctoral thesis, which describes the dress habits of Riga residents, linked to Western European fashion tendencies. Parute studied the drawings in volume 3 of Johann Christoph Brotze's (1742-1823) collection Sammlung verschiedener Liefländischer Monumente, Prospecte, Wapen, etc. (1782), determining the dress habits of Riga residents in the second half of the eighteenth century and their correspondence to the fashion of that time. Parute concludes that Riga residents, especially the Germans of Riga, would adopt the current Western European fashion tendencies with French and / or English style influences. Research on the fashion history in Latvia is mostly devoted to fashion in the twentieth century, when a new phase of fashion illustrations began, along with the reproduction of images and the active use of photographs. The period between the time of drawings and photographs, when fashion plates were executed in graphic printing techniques, is unexplored, therefore it is important to determine the distribution and content of illustrated fashion printed matter in the territory of nineteenth century Latvia. This article is dedicated to one of Riga's early prints - Winterblüten: Ein Neuiahrs-Geschenk Riga's Damen gewidmet von A. H. F. Oldekop; J. F. Krestlingk (hereinafter Winterblüten) - stored in the Rare Books and Manuscripts Collection of the National Library of Latvia. The publication of this book, supplemented with fashion plates, can be considered as a significant milestone in 1825, which marks the beginning of early illustrated fashion publications in the territory of Latvia. The aim of the article is to provide an overview of the content of the book Winterblüten, to examine the common and different features in the fashion plates and descriptions of Winterblüten and fashion magazines published in other European countries, to analyse the dresses of the Winterblüten fashion plates, providing a description of the fashion tendencies of the relevant time (styles of dresses and accessories, silhouettes, shapes, fabrics and materials, colours). As a result, an insight into the beginnings of illustrated fashion publications in the world and in the territory of Latvia has been provided, the content origin of Winterblüten has been explained and the current fashion tendencies of clothes and accessories appearing in it have been characterised in the context of European fashion history. Winterblüten, with its fashion content, can be considered a source of printed fashion circulation, which started the tradition of illustrated fashion publications and promoted the development of the spread of fashion tendencies in society in the territory of Latvia. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Scientific Journal of the Institute for Women's Studies / Studiów Kobiece is the property of Humanica Publishing House and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Scientific Journal of the Institute for Women's Studies / Studiów Kobiece is the property of Humanica Publishing House and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Social Sciences & Humanities Studies / Društvene i Humanističke Studije (DHS) is the property of Faculty of Humanities & Social Sciences, University of Tuzla and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

This article aims to show the phenomenon of ideologisation of the Polish family in the official dimension of the culture of real socialism, i.e. the media. The subject of the analysis was the most popular women’s press in the People’s Republic of Poland, with a socio-educational and advisory nature. By presenting the phenomenon of family ideologisation, attempts were made to show two of its aspects, i.e. mechanisms for the transmission of propagated content. In the first case, the family models appearing in the analysed press in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s were reconstructed, and in the second, the techniques, principles, and means used in the propaganda message were presented. The basic research problem is framed in the question: What models of family life were propagated by the examined women’s press in selected periods of real socialism and what communication mechanisms were used concerning the propagated content? The following theoretical assumptions were adopted in the analysed issues: 1) the image of the family propagated in magazines was subject to strong ideologisation and politicisation, 2) the family was treated as a political and educational tool in the service of the power apparatus, 3) interpretations of selected aspects of family life lowered the rank and importance of the family in social awareness, and 4) various mechanisms of propaganda were used to weaken the cognitive and psychological structures of women. The basic material base of the research was the magazine “Przyjaciółka” published in selected periods of the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. The supplementary base was the magazine “Kobieta i Życie” and studies by A. Kłoskowska from the 1950s and F. Adamski from the 1960s. In the reconstruction of the family models from the 1950s and 1960s, I used the content analysis method, and in the study of the family model from the 1970s, the frequency-thematic analysis of the messages of the researched content and H. Lasswell’s communication model. The theoretical reference for family analyses in the period of the People’s Republic of Poland was the concept of family as defined by K. Marx, F. Engels and V. I. Lenin. The research findings revealed that the transmitted content was subject to strong ideologisation and politicisation. The transmitted content weakened the importance of the family and deformed the sense of family values. The propagated image was one-sided and reduced. The family was treated as a tool in the service of the communist state. The techniques of transmission generated a sense of mental dilemma, ignorance, and intellectual confusion among the female readers.

This article examines discourses of authenticity embedded in European popular culture based on an empirical study of British and Greek women's magazines. After a quantitative content analysis of 575 articles published in Greek and British editions of Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire during 2012–2016, we conducted a qualitative repertoire analysis of 80 articles and identified a shared discursive repertoire, that of women's 'authentic self'. Our analysis suggests that discourses of authenticity in women's magazines contain contradictory elements. First, they are characterised by a 'can do' philosophy, an emphasis on 'body-positivity', 'self-acceptance' and self-help advice, which suggests women's agency as well as a normalisation of postfeminist gender anxieties. Second, the discourses encourage women to accept their bodies, 'internal selves' and current circumstances through self-monitoring and self-surveillance, while silencing societal barriers that form obstacles to achieving 'an authentic self'. These authenticity discourses rely on a triple entanglement of notions derived from third-wave feminism, post-feminism and neoliberal discourse. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

"Beauty Regimes: A History of Power and Modern Empire in the Philippines, 1898-1941" by Genevieve Alva Clutario explores the connection between beauty and feminine gender ideals in the Philippines. The book examines the role of beauty contests in Filipino culture and analyzes the project of beauty production as a form of self-empowerment and a tool of nationalism during the American colonial period. It also delves into the history of embroidery in the Philippines, highlighting the labor of non-elite women in the transnational industry. The book concludes with a study of high fashion in the Philippines and the significance of the terno as a marker of elite women's modern nationalist identity. Using a variety of sources, including newspapers, magazines, memoirs, and colonial archives, the book offers fresh insights into the American colonial period in the Philippines through the lens of fashion and beauty. [Extracted from the article]

This study uncovers the national deployment of cuteness in the multi-year birthday celebrations of the enormously popular child star Shirley Temple during the Great Depression in the United States. These widely publicized media events promoted the ideology of consumerism through Shirley Temple's brand cuteness, addressing the prevailing anxieties about poverty and patriarchal capitalism in the 1930s. Moreover, Shirley's brand of cuteness necessitated material protection for the child by promoting that if the little girl is "cute"—––innocent, pure, vulnerable, and loyal to the father figures–––, the adult would love her and indulge her with material abundance. Shirley Temple epitomizes girly cuteness and embodies the hope of girls and women for being rewarded by patriarchy. I use archival research and textual analysis to investigate how Fox film studio packaged Shirley's stardom around her birthdays in her movies, media profiles, and publicity stunts between 1934 and 1940. The primary sources include Shirley's movies, mainstream newspapers, women's magazines, fan magazines, and the motion pictures trade press. This study fuses cuteness theories with girls' studies to discuss the temptations for girls and women to perform cuteness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article aims to discuss Maria Paz Zamora-Mascuñana's Mi obolo (1924) in light of biographical and culturally meaningful findings obtained through archival work conducted in 2018 and 2022 using the Library of Congress's holdings of Philippine periodicals from the American colonial period as well as those of the Southeast Asian Newspaper collection at the East View Global Press Archive (GPA).3 The main claim here is that, with the publication of Mi obolo, Zamora-Mascuñana materialized her political will to contribute to the construction of the nation at a time when women's participation in Filipino politics was met with resistance due to the opposition of most political leaders to women's suffrage. However, Zamora-Mascuñana strategically chose the setting of the fundraising campaign organized in support of the Third Independence Mission to publish her short story collection, using as the title a contemporary buzzword--obolo ["contribution"]--which other writers, such as Jesus Balmori, had already employed to support the campaign, thus boldly placing herself and her creation on the same level as that of her male counterparts. This article's working hypothesis is that as a woman writer and a member of the elite, Zamora-Mascuñana displays in Mi obolo the ideological program that women from the Hispanophone Filipino privileged class had supported since the early 1900s. This agenda, directed towards the construction of the Philippine nation, pivoted mainly around Christian values and the rejection of American symbols of modernity. The article is divided into three main sections devoted, firstly, to an overview of Zamora-Mascuñana's production and its significance within the corpus of the Golden Age of Filipino Literature in Spanish; secondly, to the connections between Mi obolo and the Third Independence Mission; and thirdly, to the analysis of Mi obolo in relation to the discussion of womanhood at a time when evolving notions of modernity were transforming traditional gender roles. In this way, it is possible not only to characterize Zamora-Mascuñana as a Filipina patriot, but also to redefine Mi obolo as a pro-independence text. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The cover of Women's Health magazine of July/August 2020 featuring the Portuguese influencer Helena Coelho was shared on social media, and obtained attention from the media It was inclusively approached in an episode of the radio programme Extremamente Desagradável (2020). Hence, considering the strengthening of transmedia dynamics, i.e., the navigation of the contents beyond its publishing medium with their specific dynamics on different spaces, this research work has sought to comprehend which meanings and discourses both the cover and the episode have produced, and produce, and discuss them in a critical way. This work carries out an exploratory study in nature, therefore, it was made use of the social semiotics analysis for the cover, and the Critical Discourse Analysis for the episode about the cover, with an intersectional approach. Among the results, there is the key point of the cover on Helena Coelho, exhibiting an athletic physical appearance along with a cheerful and confident facial feedback, reinforced by the accompanying headlines. Also, the episode shows evidence of objectifying and self-objectifying trends, and its privilege related to her celebrity status. Finally, another aspect found was the delegitimization engendered by the humour towards the influencer's cover, and what is said and unspoken about it. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study explores the newly constructed female identities of the Early Republican Era in Türkiye (1923–1945). Through a thematic analysis of three contemporary women's magazines (Aile Dostu, Ev-İş, and Asrın Kadını) it aims to examine how conceptualizations of marriage and family were refashioned in the magazines to fit in the images within the newly constructed domestic ideologies of the state. We argue that the "selfless" subjectivities offered by the magazines point to dialogically constructed narrative identities which are not stable but fluid. The women's magazines of the Era aimed to reconstruct new identities by representing the Republic's ideas and official ideology to its people. Thus, they became one of the tools of social engineering in the way of "transforming the nation" into a "modern," "Westernized" one. Analysing these magazines help us identify the repertoire of subjectivities and narrative identities from which women drew while making sense of their selves during an era of transformation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

When public relations as a field professionalized in Finland in the 1960s, it had knock-on effects beyond the corporate world. As an example of this, I analyse various public relations-like strategies adopted by a party political women's organization, the Finnish Women's Democratic League. I show that as a radical left organization, the Finnish Women's Democratic League began to value media visibility in the mid-1960s, but it also continued to use more traditional communication forms, such as leaflets and workplace visits, to spread its ideological message. The changes of emphasis between various forms of communication were affected by the politicization of Finnish society, which caused tensions between the bourgeois dominant public and the 'people's democratic' counterpublic. My analysis is based on a close reading of minutes of Finnish Women's Democratic League meetings, press releases and other archival material, as well as Pippuri, the organization's internal magazine, and Uusi Nainen, a commercial women's magazine published by the organization. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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The article discusses two books related to Japanese literature. The first book, "How Dark Is My Flower: Yosano Akiko and the Invention of Romantic Love" by Leith Morton, explores the role of Yosano Akiko's poetry in the rise of the concept of romantic love in early 20th century Japan. The book examines the influence of Western-inspired notions of romantic love and the debates surrounding it in Japanese society. The second book, "The Comic Storytelling of Western Japan: Satire and Social Mobility in Kamigata Rakugo" by Matthew W. Shores, focuses on the development of the Rakugo genre in Osaka and provides a historical perspective on its significance in Japanese verbal arts. Both books offer valuable insights into different aspects of Japanese literature and would be of interest to scholars and graduate students in the field. [Extracted from the article]

The article discusses the transformation of domestic spaces in France and Belgium from 1850 to 1920. It explores how literature and art reflected the changes in domestic interiors during this period. The book, "Domestic Space in France and Belgium," edited by Claire Moran, features contributions from scholars in the field and is divided into sections on representing the domestic interior, gender and domestic space, and aesthetics and the domestic interior. The article highlights the importance of studying domesticity and interior design in understanding the cultural and societal changes of the time. [Extracted from the article]

"Winning Women's Hearts and Minds: Selling Cold War Culture in the US and the USSR" by Diana Cucuz is a revisionist exploration of the gendered nature of the U.S. propaganda war during the Cold War. The book focuses on the Ladies' Home Journal (LHJ) as a tool for defining American womanhood and reinforcing Cold War rhetoric. Cucuz also examines the United States Information Agency's (USIA) use of LHJ tropes in the Russian-language propaganda magazine Amerika to present an idealized version of American womanhood to Soviet readers. While the first half of the book is well-researched and insightful, the second half, which explores Amerika's reception in the USSR, is limited by the author's lack of Russian language skills and knowledge of Soviet history. Despite these limitations, the book offers valuable insights into the role of women in the Cold War and the effectiveness of U.S. propaganda. [Extracted from the article]

This paper aims to bridge the gap between gender, genre and translation studies by taking an interdisciplinary approach across these research areas and employing some of the tools of corpus linguistics to provide a contrastive analysis of the linguistic construction of femininity in the American and French editions of early-1920s Vogue. In particular, it takes as a sample twenty-four Vogue issues published in 1921 and focuses on its extensive fashion features, originally written in English and then translated or adapted so as to appear in the French edition. A contrastive analysis of two parallel corpora (one consisting of the fashion articles published in 1921 Vogue US and another comprising their translations/adaptations for Vogue France) as regards frequency, collocational patterning and co-textual environment of lexical items pertaining to the domains of fashion and femininity reveals both similarities and differences in the linguistic representation of gender identity across two different cultures, alongside the adoption of particular translation strategies.

Ita Buttrose, Dulcie Boling, and Nene King were three of the most influential women leaders in the Australian media from the 1970s through to the turn of the twenty-first century. They were all editors of some of Australia's most popular women's magazines, including Cleo, Woman's Day, New Idea and the Australian Women's Weekly, and were all appointed to positions on the boards of Australia's top media companies. This article historicises the careers of Buttrose, Boling, and King, positing that the way that their careers were constructed in the media, by themselves and others, reinforced gendered assumptions regarding women's leadership capabilities. These constructions evidence a nascent postfeminist conception of women in power in Australia from the 1970s through to the 1990s. The article suggests that the ability (or not) of Buttrose, Boling, and King to conform to idealised 'feminine' leadership ideals reinforced (rather than challenged) the highly gendered nature of Australian corporate media leadership and governance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article focuses on Ann Murry's serial essay "The Moral Zoologist, or Natural History of Animals," which appeared in the Lady's Magazine in sixty‐seven letters between 1800 and 1805. I argue that Murry's "The Moral Zoologist" contested the bounds of women's scientific knowledge in the eighteenth century. Although some scholarship has argued that women's magazines usually did not provide a coherent curriculum for female readers and confined their female readership to the merely entertaining or domestic, Murry used "The Moral Zoologist" to present readers with a systematic view of animal life, as well as moral reflections on the relationship between humans and animals. In particular, "The Moral Zoologist" includes pointed critiques of the use of animal fur and feathers for clothing and therefore provides a contrasting perspective for readers to consider when they peruse the fashion pieces that also populated the pages of the Lady's Magazine. Murry's work, therefore, shows that eighteenth‐century periodicals for women were complex spaces in which different ideas about the relationship between women, science, animals, and ethics could coexist. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]