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The article highlights the development of new universal and technology-based structures of tapestry fabrics. The aim of this work is to develop new tapestry structures allowing to exclude the labor-intensive operations of beaming, punching, and warp binding which are typical for tapestry weaving in order to reduce production costs and ensure prompt changes to the assortment of linen-containing clothing fabrics without losing the quality of their artistic design. The object of the study is the tapestry structures of linen-containing jacquard fabrics with the area density of 230–375 g/m2. For the first time, new structures of tapestry fabrics have been developed which have no analogues in the world practice. The warps of two colours – light and dark – located on two monophonic beams – upper and lower – are used. Thanks to this, it is possible to eliminate the time-consuming process of binding and punching multicoloured bases, to provide greater interchangeability of the assortment in weaving, to reduce the time required for producing fabrics with new tapestry structures, to reduce the production costs and increase enterprise profit. Работа посвящена разработке новых универсальных и технологичных структур гобеленовых тканей. Целью работы является разработка гобеленовых структур нового вида, позволяющих исключить характерные для гобеленового ткачества трудозатратные операции снования, пробирания, привязывания основ для снижения себестоимости и обеспечения быстрой смены ассортимента льносодержащих одёжных тканей без потери качества их художественного оформления. Объектом исследования являются гобеленовые структуры льносодержащих жаккардовых тканей поверхностной плотности 230 – 375 г/м2. Впервые разработаны новые структуры гобеленовых тканей, не имеющие аналогов в мировой практике, в строении которых принимают участие основы двух цветов – светлая и тёмная, расположенные на двух однотонных навоях – верхнем и нижнем. Благодаря этому стало возможно исключить трудоёмкий процесс привязывания и пробирания многоцветных основ, обеспечить большую взаимозаменяемость ассортимента в ткачестве, сократить временные затраты на изготовление тканей новых гобеленовых структур, снизить себестоимость и увеличить прибыль предприятия.

The work is devoted to the design of remise and jacquard fabrics of mixed structures in order to improve their artistic and color design. It is proposed to use single-layer, two-layer, hollow, two and a half layers, tapestry, reps structure for producing a modern three-dimensional pattern in the fabric. The structure of the weft tapestry in the pattern of two-layer jacquard fabrics was introduced for the first time. The model weaves with short and long weft overlappings are developed. It allows obtaining pure color effects in the fabric. The combination of various structures in the fabric is applied in the assortment of the remise and jacquard dress-suit, jacquard furniture and decorative fabrics and piecework.

The aim is to develop a methodology for determining of warp runner length to design of the new modern fabrics with using classic tapestry weaves and tapestry weaves of a new kind. The technology of tapestry of new structures has been developed, which differs from the existing, first, by using a single warp beam on a loom, secondly, by maneuverability of replacement options of color design, that improving the performance of weaving machinery; has been developed a new kind of tapestry weaves - mixed tapestry, differs from existing warp and weft tapestries by a combination in its structure the main features warp and weft tapestries; created mathematical models which takes into account the influence of arrangements of warp and weft threads in fabrics of a complex structure on runner length of warp threads, the use of which helps to reduce breakage of warp threads in weaving; scientific researches formed the basis of the created software product, which allows: to visualize and correct the appearance of tapestry fabrics, to forecast warp runner length of different systems, reduce time and material costs for design. The scientific novelty of this work is to develop an effective technology for the production of competitive high-tech tapestries of new structures given artistic and coloristic design of different raw material content.