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Tekstili Bliskog istoka činili su značajan dio kulture, ekonomije, ceremonija, ali i politike u islamskim kalifatima i Bizantskom Carstvu. Izmjenama vlasti i osvajanjima šire se stilovi i utjecaji, a mnogi motivi zadržavaju se stoljećima. Tekstili ovog područja često su bili izrazito luksuzni, protkani zlatom i obojeni skupocjenim bojama, naravno svila je bila najluksuzniji od materijala, ali redovito se koristio i lan, pamuk i vuna. Osobito važan motiv tekstila islamskih kalifata bilo je pismo koje u ranijim periodima ima puno veće značenje od pukog ukrasa. Srednjovjekovni tekstili Bliskog istoka ostvarili su utjecaj i na europsku modu i umjetnost što je osobito vidljivo u imitaciji arapskih natpisa. The textiles of the Middle East formed a significant part of the culture, economy, ceremonies, and politics in the Islamic Caliphates and the Byzantine Empire. Changes of government and conquests helped spreading the styles and influences, and many motifs persisted for centuries. The textiles in question were often extremely luxurious, woven with gold and dyed with costly colours. Of materials, silk was the most precious, but linen, cotton and wool were also regularly used in luxury textiles. A particularly important motif in the art of the Islamic caliphates was inscription which in earlier periods had a much greater meaning than mere decoration. Such inscriptions can be found in the European art which indicates the amount of influence that the textiles had far away from the place of origin.

In this article, the breaking elongation properties of woven fabrics with incorporated PBT yarns are presented. Different polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) yarns (multifilament PBT yarn, cotton core yarn and twisted viscose yarn, both with PBT in the core) were used. Textured PBT yarns have latent elastic properties, which become visible after the thermal treatment by the finishing process. The aim was to determine which of the constructional parameters is most important in analysing the shrinkage of fabrics after treatment, breaking elongation properties of all tested fabrics, and breaking elongation properties of woven fabrics before and after treatment. A multivariate statistical method ANOVA was used for the analysis. The results show that treatment was by far the most influential factor in the study of breaking elongation of all tested fabrics. When analysing the fabrics separately before and after treatment, the construction of the PBT yarn and the weave were found to be statistically significant parameters.

The necessity of measuring permeability is encountered in number of applications and some of them have adequate measurement techniques available. However, in the fields of freeze drying, composite scaffolds, 3D printed materials, etc., the sample materials have unique shapes and sizes, which disables the use of standardized equipment. Hence, a novel method was developed to determine the permeability of a sample material by analyzing a high frequency unsteady state pressure measurement acquired during the permeation of a working fluid. The method is also suitable for in-line measurements due to the rapid acquisition and analysis. The developed method is novel, hence a comparison of the acquired results and the permeabilities measured with a standard device designed for measuring air permeability of fabric materials was made. Air was the permeating fluid in the novel unsteady state as well as in the referential steady state measurements. The measured permeabilities ranged from approximately 8 Da to 50 Da for the analyzed five fabric materials. The comparative analysis yielded an encouraging linear fit with a R2 = 0.98 by including only one unsteady state measurement of each fabric sample. In addition, the presented method was capable of detecting the difference in permeability of the freeze-dried 5 wt% and 12 wt% aqueous mannitol solutions, which exhibit different permeabilities due to the different porosities after the same process of lyophilization. The possibility of determining permeabilities of freeze-dried pharmaceuticals is essential for lyophilization process optimization.

This paper deals with the possibility of a fast and accurate assessment of the number, size, and distribution of pores in transparent woven fabrics based on light penetration. The procedure of analyzing the pore structure in the fabrics based on a digital image is presented in detail. Fabric pores are treated as image particles and analyzed with the Java-based image processing software ImageJ. The obtained data relate to the constructional parameters of the fabric that allow for further analysis, provide the possibility to compare structurally similar or different samples as well as double check the results generated by optical or other means. This paper describes work on plain and similar to plain weaves. The conducted analysis revealed several expected and some unexpected results. Among the former, we can list the range of pore sizes in the examined woven fabrics, the distribution of pores in regard to their similarity, and the effect of dents. Examples of the latter are the magnitude of the cumulative percentage of pores in regard to the weave and the degree to which they participate in the inter-yarn and inter-fiber pores.

Elasticity and recovery are important for clothing comfort, especially in the manufacture of apparel and sportswear. Recently, yarns containing PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), which are able to develop good elastic properties with high recovery after a finishing process (e.g., thermal treatment), have been used for this purpose. The aim of this work is to give a comprehensive overview of the use of PBT yarns in woven structure, with the aim of improving the elastic properties of cotton-like fabrics. The experimental part was divided into three main sequences to investigate the fabric properties (physical, elastic, UPF, comfort) influenced by (1) PBT-containing yarn structure, (2) weave and fabric structure (basic weaves and complex weaves) with PBT in weft direction, and (3) processing sequence-thermal treatment of PBT yarns or fabrics after weaving. According to the results, PBT-containing yarns have great potential for the production of lightweight elastic fabrics. The advantages of improving the elastic properties of fabrics by incorporating a relatively small amount of PBT yarns into the fabric only in certain areas, thereby minimally affecting the production costs, are demonstrated by a product with partially elastic areas obtained after thermal treatment., Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey (TUBITAK)Turkiye Bilimsel ve Teknolojik Arastirma Kurumu (TUBITAK); Slovenian Research Agency (ARRS)Slovenian Research Agency - Slovenia [BI-TR/15-17-006]; Slovenian Research AgencySlovenian Research Agency - Slovenia [P2-0213], This research was funded by Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey (TUB.ITAK) and Slovenian Research Agency (ARRS) within bilateral project (Project number: BI-TR/15-17-006). This work was cofounded by the Slovenian Research Agency (Program P2-0213 Textiles and Ecology).

Namen doktorske disertacije je bil razviti hitro in učinkovito metodo za napovedovanje zaščitnih lastnosti tkanin pred UV sevanjem že v fazi njihovega načrtovanja oz. projektiranja. Z definiranjem koeficientov prepustnosti (T), odboja (R) in absorpcije (A) ultravijoličnega (UV) sevanja na podlagi razširjene teorije faktorja kritja tkanin je bil namen postaviti nov matematični model za napovedovanje zaščitnih lastnosti tkanin pred UV sevanjem. Raziskava je temeljila na razvoju in razširitvi teorije faktorja kritja, kjer se je s pomočjo monofilamentnih poliestrnih tkanin postavil matematični model za ugotavljanje zaščitnih lastnosti tkanin pred UV sevanjem. Uporabnost omenjenega modela smo potrdili s primerjavo in ugotavljanjem stopnje ujemanja med teoretičnimi vrednostmi, izračunanimi po postavljenemu modelu, in izmerjenimi vrednostmi parametrov UV sevanja. Z visokim ujemanjem (r > 0,98), majhno razliko med omenjenimi vrednostmi ter s potrditvijo teoretične predpostavke, kjer velja, da koeficient prepustnosti UV sevanja skozi del tkanine, pokrit z dvema nitma (K2T), predstavlja kvadrat koeficienta prepustnosti UV sevanja skozi delež tkanine, pokrit z eno nitjo (K1T2), ter koeficient absorpcije UV sevanja skozi delež tkanine, pokrit z dvema nitma (K2A), predstavlja kvadratni koren koeficienta absorpcije skozi delež tkanine, pokrit z eno nitjo (??K?_1A), se je uporabnost postavljenega matematičnega modela z gotovostjo potrdila. Razvili smo tudi novo metodo določanja maksimalne gostote, ki temelji na razširjeni teoriji faktorja kritja. Ta metoda je bila uporabljena za določitev konstrukcijskih parametrov in parametrov UV sevanja, katerih poznavanje je nujno za uporabo modela. V namen širše uporabe matematičnega modela sta bili izdelani seriji enoplastnih in dvoplastnih vzorcev sistemov niti iz enobarvnih surovih poliestrnih (PES) rotorskih prej in obarvanih bombažnih (CO) prstanskih prej v dveh različnih dolžinskih masah. Razvita je bila metoda priprave vzorcev enoplastnih in dvoplastnih nitnih sistemov z enakomerno gostoto niti po površini. V I. sklopu raziskav so se vzorci iz PES preje razlikovali le v št. zavojev preje in gostoti niti, v II. sklopu raziskav pa v barvi in gostoti CO niti. Vrednosti odprte površine in premerov preje se je določilo z uporabo slikovne analize. Visoka stopnja ujemanja med teoretičnimi in merjenimi vrednostmi (r > 0,94), majhne razlike med vrednostmi ter potrditev postavljene teorije dokazujejo uspešno uporabnost postavljenega matematičnega modela. Slednje podaja možnost praktične uporabe predvsem za namen izdelave zaščitnih oblačil. The aim of the doctoral dissertation was to develop a fast and efficient method for predicting the UV protective properties of fabrics already in the stage of planning and designing. We established a mathematical model to calculate and predict the UV-protective properties of fabrics, using transmittance (KT), reflection (KR) and absorption (KA) coefficients of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The model is based on our extended cover factor theory by using the geometrical properties of monofilament polyester fabrics. The model was first validated on monofilament polyester fabrics by comparing the theoretical values calculated according to the model with previously measured values of the UV radiation parameters. The results show high correlations (r > 0.98) and small differences between the theoretical and measured values, indicating the high model efficiency. Moreover, the results confirm the theoretical assumption that the coefficient of UV transmission of the fabric area covered with two yarns (K2T) is approximately equal to the power function of the coefficient of UV transmission of the fabric area covered with one yarn (K1T2), and that the coefficient of UV absorption of the fabric area covered with two yarns (K2A) is approximately equal to the square root of the coefficient of UV absorption of the fabric area covered with one yarn (〖⠚K〗_1A). Apart from developing a new model, we also defined a new method to determine maximum density, which is also based on the extended version of the cover factor theory. This method was used to determine the constructional parameters and parameters of UV radiations that are necessary for using the model. For its broader use, the model was also validated on a series of single- and double-layer thread systems, using uncoloured raw polyester (PES) rotor yarn and coloured cotton (CO) ring yarns in two different counts. For that purpose, the method for preparing single-layer or double-layered thread systems with uniform density was developed. PES samples differed in the number of twist yarn and thread density, while CO samples differed in colour and density of the thread. Open area and yarn diameters were determined using image analysis. In both cases, the results show high correlations (r > 0.94), small differences between theoretical and measured values, and confirm the aforementioned theoretical assumption. Taken together, the results clearly show high efficiency of our model and practical importance, since it can be used to develop and produce protective clothing.

Predmet obravnave diplomske naloge je oblikovanje kolekcije dekorativnih žakarskih tkanin za oblazinjenje recikliranih kosov pohištva. Svet, v katerem živimo, se spreminja z neznansko hitrostjo, konstantni razvoj tehnologije in industrije se kaže v razvitosti samih izdelkov. Hitre spremembe produktov in cenovna dostopnost vodijo do ogromnih količin odpadnih predmetov. Zato se je že v 70. letih 20. stoletja med ljudmi začela širiti ideja o recikliranju in ponovni uporabi, ki bi pripomogla k postopnemu zmanjševanju onesnaževanja Zemlje. Zaradi vse večje potrebe po zmanjšanju odpadnega materiala in prevelike okoljske obremenitve se diplomsko delo usmeri v raziskovanje dobrih praks recikliranja in ponovne uporabe. V eksperimentalnem delu sem prikazala proces reciklaže šolskih stolov. Kovinsko ogrodje šolskih stolov je bilo preurejeno v nove objekte, ki so ohranili svojo pohištveno funkcijo. V želji po nadgradnji in oplemenitenju kovinskega ogrodja stolov s tekstilnimi kosi sem oblikovala kolekcijo dekorativnih žakarskih tkanin za oblazinjenje recikliranih stolov. Žakarske tkanine spadajo med tehnološko kompleksnejše in so lahko ustvarjene s sistemom ene osnove in enega votka ali s sistemom več osnov in votkov. Vzorci žakarskih tkanin so vizualno sestavljeni iz treh delov: iz grafičnih vzorcev, ilustracije človeka in človeških predmetov ter pokrajine oziroma barvnih ploskev, ki so združeni glede na opredeljeno oz. dodeljeno funkcijo pohištva. Žakarske tkanine so objektom dodale vrednost, unikatnost in s tem tudi višji cenovni razred. The focus of this diploma paper is a collection of jacquard fabrics used to decorate the cushioned part of the recycled furniture. The world we live in is changing with immense speed and the constant technological development and industrial chang-es are evident through the evolution of the products themselves. Fast product changes and low prices lead to a great amount of waste. The idea of recycling and reusing and thus lessen the impact of waste on the environment has been present since the 70s. Due to the ever-growing demand for lessening waste and our envi-ronmental impact this paper then focuses also on the exploration of admirable recy-cling practices. The experimental part shows the process of recycling school chairs. The metal frame was repurposed and used for other furniture pieces. In my wish to upgrade and embellish the metal framework with textile pieces, I had designed a collection of decorative jacquard fabrics which were used to cushion the recycled chairs. Jacquard fabrics are one of the most complex fabrics from a technological point of view and can be produced with a system of one warp and one weft or with a system of more warps and more wefts. The patterns of jacquard fabrics visually consist of three parts: graphic prints, an illustration of a human subject, objects and landscape or color surfaces that are combined based on the function of the furni-ture. Jacquard fabrics were considered an added merit to the furniture piece that had made it unique and thus also a more valuable item.

Paleta raznovrstnih tkanin, ki se vsak dan pojavljajo v procesu izdelave oblačilno industrijo velik izziv, saj se nenehno sooča s težavami, ki zadevajo raznovrstnost uporabljenih tkanin. Le-te se zaradi učinkujočih obremenitev med procesi izdelave različno obnašajo. Tako je za razumevanje in boljše informiranje o predelovalnih lastnostih tkanin za oblačilno industrijo nepogrešljivo poznavanje njihovih mehanskih in fizikalnih lastnosti. Za razumevanje povezanosti omenjenih dejavnikov je v prispevku predstavljena baza znanja za napovedovanje obnašanja tkanin med procesi izdelave oblačil kot pomembna inženirska informacija tako za oblačilno industrijo, ki želi izdelovati visokokakovostna oblačila hitro in poceni, kot tudi za tekstilno industrijo, ki bo morala pristopiti k inženirskemu načrtovanju želenih lastnosti tkanin. Oblikovana baza znanja, zasnovana na realno dobljenih podatkih obsežne raziskave in študije obnašanja tkanin med procesi izdelave v neposredni proizvodnji, je izhodišče za inženirsko načrtovanje procesov izdelave oblačil. A wide range of different fabrics appearing daily in the garment manufactoring process represents a great challenge for garment industry. Due to their different properties the behaviour and response of such fabrics to the stresses occuring during the production process is different. For better informing and understanding the processing properties of fabrics for garment industry the knowledge of their mechanical and physical properties is indispensable. In order to understand the connection of the mentioned factors the author presents a knowledge base for predicting the behaviour of fabrics during the garment manufacturing process as an important engineering information for both, the garment manufacturing industry that wants to manufacture high quality garment quickly and cost effectively and for the textile industry that should accede to the engineering design of wished properties of fabrics. The presented knowledge base is based on real data obtained by a comprehensive research and investigation during an inplant garment manufacturing process and means a starting point for the engineering design of garment manufacturing process.

Ideja diplomskog rada bila je kreirati kolekciju odjeće koja je zanimljive strukture, neobičnih krojeva, naizgled komplicirana ali zapravo vrlo funkcionalna i nosiva. Odlučila sam koristiti čvorove raznih vrsta i namjena te ih primijeniti na modelima u kombinaciji s konstrukcijom, krojenjem i šivanjem. Prvo sam proučavala povijest, vrstu i izradu čvorova. Zatim sam eksperimentirala s raznim vrstama tkanina, špagama, predmetima itd. Prošla sam kroz povijest odjeće te proučila gdje i kako su se koristili čvorovi. Sve to rezultiralo je stotinama skica odjevnih predmeta koje sam potom pročistila te ujedinila u 10 konačnih modela. Modele sam predstavila na Fashion Incubatoru u Osijeku, zatim sam ih poslikala, te uz fotografije opisala svaki pojedinačno.

Različne državne institucije se pri izbiri tekstilnih materialov za lastne potrebe v glavnem opirajo na tako imenovana javna naročila, kjer se med drugim kot pomembnejše merilo za izbiro oblačil predvideva tudi izpolnjevanje zahtev izbranih tehničnih parametrov, zapisanih v tehnični specifikaciji. Za čim bolj objektivno presojo glede kakovosti ponujenih materialov ali izdelkov imajo pomembno vlogo tudi tako imenovani neodvisni testni laboratoriji, ki na osnovi standardiziranih metod opravljajo testiranja ponujenih tekstilnih materialov skladno z definiranimi parametri. Vsebina tehnične specifikacije oziroma parametri navedeni v njej dejansko predstavljajo lastnosti materiala, ki jih naročnik pričakuje in so v glavnem zapisani v obliki številčnih vrednosti s pripadajočimi dovoljenimi tolerancami. Te številke niso nikoli natančen posnetek lastnosti želenega materiala, ampak le njihov približek predvsem zaradi kompleksnosti tekstilnih materialov, katerih lastnosti niso konstantne po vsem delu tega istega materiala. Na lastnosti tekstilnega materiala vpliva namreč množica dejavnikov, ki izhajajo iz izvora in pogojev rasti naravnih vlaken (npr. bombaž, volna) (pri sintetičnih vlaknih je možno lastnosti relativno dobro usmerjati) ter neizogibnih variacij v procesu proizvodnje tekstilnega materiala, kar pomeni, da ima isti material na svojih različnih delih lahko npr. različne sorpcijske sposobnosti, različne mehanske lastnosti, itd. in je zato potrebno predvideti, da tekstilni material na vseh svojih delih ne bo izkazoval istih karakteristik, ker je to praktično nemogoče. Zato moramo vsak tekstilni material meriti na številnih in čim bolj različnih delih, kar je jasno definirano s standardi. Iz prakse izhaja, da nek naročnik običajno priloži le majhen del (cca 1,5 m) iz relativno dolge «metraže« izdelanega tekstilnega materiala, kar se pogosto izkaže za zelo neugodno. Pričujoče diplomsko delo je usmerjeno v preskušanje tekstilnih materialov za izdelavo uniform za podjetji UNI&FORMA d.o.o. iz Trzina in Overall d.o.o. iz Ljubljane z namenom presoditi skladnost posameznih parametrov na, po navedbah proizvajalca, istih vzorcih (vzorcih, izdelanih po identičnem tehnološkem postopku in uporabo identičnih barvil, pomožnih sredstev, apretur, itd.), odvzetih iz različnih bal, ter na ta način oceniti sipanje rezultatov na teh tkaninah, ki se smatrajo za iste. Various state institutions in the selection of textile materials for their own use mainly rely on so-called public procurement, where, inter alia, as a major criterion for the selection of clothing a compliance of selected technical parameters with the requirements prescribed in the technical specification is chosen. In order to perform as much as possible objective assessment regarding the quality of the materials or products, an important role plays so-called independent test laboratories which by exploring standardized methods perform testing of textile materials in accordance with defined parameters. The content of the technical specification i.e. parameters actually represents the properties of the material expecting by the client, and are generally written in the form of numerical values associated with the permitted tolerances. These numbers are never exact replica of desired properties of the material, but only their proxy, mainly due to the complexity of textile materials whose properties are not constant throughout same material. The properties of textile material depend on multitude factors arising from the origin, and conditions of natural fibers, (e. g. cotton, wool) growth (in the case of synthetic fibers it is possible relatively good to control/to set the properties), and the unavoidable variations in the manufacturing process of the textile material, which means that the same material on its various parts may be different, e. g. different sorption ability, different mechanical properties, etc. and it is therefore necessary to provide that the textile material in all its parts will not show the same characteristics, since this is practically impossible. Therefore, each textile material must be measured in its many different parts as possible, which is clearly defined by standards. In practice, a client usually gives only a small piece (about 1.5 m) of a relatively long length of textile material, which often proves to be very unfavorable. Presented work is basing on textile testing for companies UNI&FORMA d.o.o Trzin, and Overall d.o.o. Ljubljana in order to assess a compliance of individual parameters of different pieces of textile fabrics (fabrics produced by identical technological process and the use of identical dyes, auxiliaries, finishes, etc.), taken from different bales, and in this way to assess the scattering of results of these fabrics, which are considered to be the same.

Prikaz tkanina u računalnoj grafici je vrlo opsežno i zahtjevno područje s potencijalno velikom primjenom. U ovom radu je objašnjeno na koje je sve načine moguće simulirati tkanine te su dana tri potencijalno iskoristiva modela. Ti modeli su implementirani i detaljno analizirani. Svakom modelu su istaknute prednosti i nedostaci u odnosu na ostale. Dodatno je analizirano kakav utjecaj na pojedini model imaju njegovi parametri te je analizirana razlika u brzini izvođenja pojedinih modela. Sav programski kod napisan u radu je pisan u programskom jeziku C# te OpenGLu. Cloth simulation in computer graphics is an extensive and complicated area with a potentially wide array of uses. This thesis analyses various methods of simulating cloth and presents three potentially usebale models. Those models have been implemented and analysed in detail. Every model had it's advantages and disadvantages presented in comparison to the others. In addition, the effect of various parameters for each model has been analysed and their performances have been tested. All the programming code has been written in the programming language C# and in OpenGL.

Kako je pojava nabora, uz boju, sjaj i teksturu važan čimbenik koji utječe na estetska, funkcionalna i uporabna svojstva tekstilnih materijala, u okviru rada su uhodani postupci procjene oporavka nabora na ispitivanim tkaninama i ocjene izgleda tkanina nakon pranja i sušenja u kućanstvu, pri čemu se ocjenjivao izgled površine tkanine i izgled šavova nakon jednog i pet ciklusa kućanskih pranja i sušenja. Da bi se u skladu s normiranim postupkom, mogla provesti ocjena oporavka nabora nakon rasterećenja i relaksacije pamučnih popelina za izradu košulja konstruirana je aparatura za provedbu simulacije opterećenja tkanine tijekom uporabe. Sa svrhom ocjenjivanja izgleda odjeće tj. tkanine nakon simulacije uporabe i njege izrađeni su 3D etaloni za ocjenjivanje oporavka nabora i jednolikosti izgleda tkanina. Postupak ocjenjivanja usporedbom s 3D etalonima je proveden na dvije različite lokacije uz različito osvjetljenje, u svrhu definiranja utjecaja okoline na krajnji rezultat ispitivanja i povećanja njegove objektivnosti. Na temelju provedene analize utvrđeno je da je ocjenjivanje lakše provoditi uz normom definirane uvjete rasvjete, a posebice kod uzorkovanih tkanina izražajnije površinske strukturiranosti. S obzirom na rezultate procjene oporavka nabora i ocjene jednolikosti izgleda neapretiranih tkanina nakon pranja i sušenja u kućanstvu te s tim u vezi i pretpostavku izgleda gotovog proizvoda nakon uporabe i njege preporuča se primijeniti odgovarajuće apretirane popeline za izradu muške košulje.

U radu je prikazan razvoj novih tkanina pamučnog tipa povećane istezljivosti uz upotrebu teksturirane multifilamentne pređe od polibutilen tereftalata (PBT) po potki i primjenom odgovarajućeg postupka obrade. Za potrebe istraživanja izrađena je skupina referentnih uzoraka tkanina koje sadrže PBT pređu. Tkanine su se razlikovale po redoslijedu pamučnih i PBT pređa u smjeru potke. Kod nekih uzoraka upotrjebljena je bila udvojena nit PBT koja je simulirala upotrebu pređe dvaput veće duljinske mase. Ispitan je utjecaj udjela teksturirane PBT pređe na elastična svojstva tkanina od mješavine pamuka/PBT, nakon obrade u kipućoj vodi u vremenu od 30 min. Skupljanje tkanine u smjeru osnove i potke te utjecaj na gustoću tkanine (po osnovi i potki), debljinu, površinsku masu i prekidna svojstva određena su primjenom standardiziranih postupaka. Količina PBT uglavnom je utjecala na elastičnost tkanine u smjeru potke. Najveća elastičnost imala je dobru korelaciju s najvećom količinom PBT. Osim toga, minimalni udio PBT je učinkovito povećao prekidna svojstva obrađenih tkanina u oba smjera, što je važno, jer tkanine većinom zadržavaju svoj pamučni karakter. Upotreba PBT i odgovarajući postupak obrade za razvoj zahtijevanih povećanih elastičnih svojstava tkanina za bilo koje namjene mogla bi biti od značajne prednosti u pogledu cijene (u usporedbi s Lycra®) i vremena proizvodnje (priprema za tkanje i brzina tkanja)., The aim of this work is a development of new products, i.e. cotton like woven fabrics with increased extensibility, using textured multifilament polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) yarn in a weft direction and a proper finishing procedure. For the research purpose, a set of referential samples of woven fabrics containing PBT was made. The fabrics differed in the sequences of cotton and PBT yarns in the weft direction. In some samples a doubled PBT yarn is inserted in as one weft, simulating double linear density. The influence of the textured PBT yarn quantity on the elastic properties of cotton/PBT woven fabrics, developed after the treatment in boiling water for 30 minutes, was studied. The contraction in warp and weft directions that affect warp and weft density, thickness, mass per unit area and tensile properties were measured using standardised methods. The quantity of PBT mainly influenced the elasticity in weft direction. The highest elasticity correlated well with the highest quantity of PBT. Furthermore, a minimum portion of PBT effectively improved the tensile properties of treated fabrics in both directions, this being important in such cases, as the fabrics mostly keep their cotton character. The use of PBT and proper finishing procedure for developing the required increased elastic properties of woven fabrics for any purposes could be of significant advantage in the terms of price (compared to Lycra®) and production time (preparation for weaving and speed of weaving).

Namen diplomskega dela Računalniško podprto 3D risanje in predstavitev oblazinjenega pohištva je bil prostorsko risanje in predstavitev modelov oblazinjenega pohištva, kreiranih po lastnih zamislih. V uvodnem delu diplomske naloge so predstavljene vrste in lastnosti materiala za oblazinjeno pohištvo, konstrukcija sedežnih garnitur in različne teksture, barve in vzorci. V nadaljevanju opisa sledi uporaba programov Google SketchUp 8 Pro in 3DVIA Shape. Prikazan je potek risanja oblazinjenega pohištva (pet različnih modelov / dve kolekciji). Na koncu je prikazano oblikovanje predstavitve izdelanega oblazinjenega pohištva v obliki promocijskega filma, izdelanega s programoma CAM Studio in Windows Movie Maker. Cilj diplomskega dela je bila predstavitev in izdelava desetih modelov oblazinjenega pohištva z uporabo 3D računalniške grafike in izdelava predstavitvenega videa z uporabo ustreznih grafičnih programov. The aim of this study was to produce 3D drawings and appropriate presentation of newly created models of upholstered furniture. In the introductory part the nature and properties of materials for upholstered furniture, beds and sofas, as well as construction and different textures, colours and patterns are presented. Google SketchUp 8 Pro and 3DVIA Shape programmes are described. The upholstered furniture drawing process (five different models / two collections) is described in details. Finally, the promotional videos using CAM Studio and Windows Movie Maker programmes were produced in order to present the designed upholstered furniture. The purpose of the thesis was to design ten different models of upholstered furniture using 3D computer graphics and to present them in a promotional video produced with suitable computer programmes.

Namen diplomske naloge je predstavitev simulacije ploskih tekstilij —tkanine in pletiva — na različnih 3D objektih z programsko opremo OptiTex, in primerjava simulacij z obnašanjem realnih materialov na realnih objektih, kadar določimo podobne mehanskofizikalne parametre materiala. Moderna računalniška oprema omogoča efektivne simulacije ploskih tekstilij, kot tudi simulacije oblačil, izdelke tekstilnih materialov. Realistična zunanjost in obnašanje tkanin in pletiv je odvisno od aplikacij, značilna za mehansko fizikalne parametre in ostale vplivne lastnosti simulacij. Virtualna predstavitev nekega tekstilnega produkta zagotavlja unčikovito orodje za ocenjevanje v realnosti. Pomemben je prihranek pri času in stroških. Razen tega, lahko dosežemo precejšnjo konkurenčno prednost, katera predstavlja danes enega od pogojev za uspešno in zahtevno celostno tržišče. The purpose of this diploma work is to present the simulations of flat textile products – woven and knitted fabrics – on different 3D objects using the software package OptiTex, and to compare the simulations with the behaviour of real materials on real objects when applying similar mechanical-physical material parameters. Modern computer hardware and software enable effective simulation of complex flat textile products, as well as simulation of garments, produced from these textile fabrics. Realistic appearance and behaviour of woven and knitted fabrics depends on application of appropriate mechanical-physical parameters and other influential characteristics of a simulation. Virtual representation of a certain textile product provides an efficient tool for estimation of its behaviour in reality. This leads to significant time and costs savings. Furthermore, we can achieve considerable competitive advantages, which represents today one of the conditions for success on demanding global market.

Toliko zanimljivosti, osobitosti pa i nepoznanica vezano je za kravatu da sve zajedno čine pravi izazov koji bi, formuliran, mogao glasiti: pred nama je jedan običan i svakodnevan, naizgled banalan predmet, koji posjeduje takav potencijal da ga ne možemo iscrpiti nijednim pojedinačnim tumačenjem. Upravo zato se fenomen kravate pokušava rasvijetliti u njenom etnografskom i povijesnom, modnom i sociološkom, antropološkom i psihološkom smislu ; dakle, shvatiti ga u različitim kontekstima što će biti prikazano u ovom radu. U eksperimentalnom dijelu ispitane su tri vrste tkanina za kravate. Provedena su ispitivanja: vez, gustoća osnove i potke, skupljanje, debljina, prekidna sila, prekidno istezanja, prekidna sila na probijanja. Ispitana je finoća pređe u osnovi i potki tri uzorka tkanina za kravate različitih proizvođača kojima je sirovinski sastav prirodna svila. Međusobna razlika uzoraka je u gotovo svim ispitanim parametrima. Prema dobivenim rezultatima ispitivanja tri uzorka tkanina za kravate može se zaključiti sljedeće: Kvalitetne tkanine za kravate su izrađene najčešće iz prirodne svile. No međutim relativno velika učestalost tkanina je iz sintetskih filamentnih niti koje vrlo dobro imitiraju prirodnu svilu kao poliamidi i poliesteri. U ovom radu izabrani su uzorci od prirodne svile. Ispitane tkanine izrađene su u relativno velikoj finoći u osnovi dok u potci jedan uzorak je imao grublju potku od ostalih, što je doprinijelo karakterističan prugasti izgled kravate. Budući su osonovine niti tkanina namijenjenih za kravate fine i tanke gustoća je relativno velika, dok po potci to ne mora biti. Prema dobivenim rezultatima može se zaključiti da kod finih potki i gustoća je relativno velika koja se može približiti čak gustoći osnove (kravata 1), dok kod grublje potke gustoća može biti višestruko manja od gustoće osnove (kravata 2). Tkanine za kravate su mahom žakarskih uzoraka i to s višebojnom osnovom i potkom (kravata 1 i 3). Time možemo zaključiti da su to tkanine relativno skupe zbog skupe pripreme pređe bojanjem u različitim bojama koje moraju biti postojane. K tomu još složenost u slaganju raporta boja u sekcijskom snovanju i tkanje na tkalačkim strojevima za lagane tkanine s mogućnošću uzorkovanja po potki.

The paper deals with the analysis of physical and mechanical properties of fabrics woven in four-end twill and eight-end sateen weaves from the same materials and under the same weaving conditions. The purpose of the analysis was to give insight into these properties, which might help designers in the selection of appropriate weaves to achieve visual as well as physical and mechanical properties of end products required during the use. For the purposes of the research 12 samples of fabrics in seven weaves were designed and woven. The samples were classified into three groups in dependence of the weaving method and constructional parameters. The samples of the first and second group were made on industrial loom with the preset warp density 46 ends/cm and the linear density of the warp 17 × 2 tex. The samples of the first group were woven with the same yarn in the weft, only that the yarn was not sized, and with the weft density 26 picks/cm, whereas the samples of the second group had the linear density of the weft 25 × 2 tex and the weft density 18 picks/cm. The third group was woven on laboratory loom with the warp density 40 ends/cm and the weft density 26 picks/cm with the same yarn in the warp and weft 17 × 2 tex. In the first group, which comprised seven samples, four of them were woven in twill weave (weft-faced twill and double-faced twill, and its broken variants in the repeat) and three of them in eight-end sateen (weft-faced sateen and two versions of reinforced sateen). The fabrics of the second group were woven in twill and broken twill weaves, and the fabrics of the third group were woven in sateen weaves. The research included investigations of constructional, physical and mechanical properties of woven samples. It has been found that in the case of identical constructional parameters and weaving conditions the selection of weave considerably affects physical and mechanical properties of fabrics. Industrially manufactured fabrics in twill weave achieved for more than 100 N higher breaking forces in the warp direction than the fabrics woven in sateen weave. In the weft direction, industrially manufactured twill fabrics achieved only 45 N higher strength than the fabrics woven in sateen weave. The breaking elongation of fabrics woven in twill weave was two to two and a half times higher in the warp direction than in the weft direction. Breaking elongations of fabrics in sateen weave in the warp and weft direction only slightly differed ; they were of the same order of magnitude. Weaving conditions as well as use of industrial or laboratory looms also affected physical and mechanical properties. Fabrics made under laboratory conditions achieved better mechanical properties than industrially manufactured fabrics, which can be attributed to lower stresses and consequently, smaller damages during the weaving process. The research can help designers to select appropriate weaves when designing structural patterns (shaft and jacquard fabrics) which will in addition to visual characteristics and effects impart also appropriate physical and mechanical properties to the manufactured fabrics.

Diplomsko delo obsega kolekcijo, ki jo j oblikovala Irena Rojs. Kolekcijo sestavlja pet modelov. Pripravila sem konstrukcijski opis modelov, ki vsebuje skico modela in opis vseh glavnih značilnosti le tega. Rezultat diplomskega dela so kroji, ki sem jih skonstruirala za to kolekcijo. Diploma work involves collection by Irena Rojs. Collection consists of five models. The result of my diploma work are patterns that i designed for this collection.

U ovom radu obavljena su istraživanja s ciljem da se dođe do spoznaje koja vrsta tekstila, s obzirom na sirovinu, vrstu i stupanj prerade, daje optimalne rezultate za apsorpciju zvuka. Ispitivana su razna tekstilna vlakna i pređe, različite gustoće kao i međusobno paralelnog i heterogenog položaja niti u uzorku. Za potrebe ispitivanja napravljene su tekstilne plošne tvorevine različitih konstrukcija, a kod epruveta za ispitivanje stavljeno je više slojeva tekstila. Radi pokrivanja šireg područja frekvencija rađeni su nabori na tkaninama. Rezultati mjerenja pokazuju da ima velikih razlika u apsorpciji zvuka kod raznih sirovina i njihovih zbijenosti, tako da je za apsorpciju buke najlošiji pamuk bolji od kvalitetnije vune. Kod tekstilnih plošnih tvorevina na apsorpciju zvuka ima utjecaj njihova konstrukcija, broj slojeva i njihova udaljenost od površine koja emitira zvuk.