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Objective: Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging. Methods: Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL‐6 and IL‐8 as well as MMP‐1 (collagenase) and MMP‐9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components. Results: Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV‐induced IL‐6, IL‐8, MMP‐1 and MMP‐9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones. Conclusion: The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti‐ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Excessive and unpleasant odours that emanate from the skin can induce bromhidrosis and substantially impair a person's quality of life. Enzymatic pathways generating unpleasant odours are well detailed, and among them, the C–S lyase is one of the enzymes involved in the conversion of non‐volatile precursors into thiol‐type malodorous volatile molecules such as 3M3SH. This study aimed to investigate the variation of axillary odour intensity correlated with Staphylococcus (S.) hominis C–S lyase activity within a group of volunteers after a physical activity. Methods: First, a group of 24 volunteers from the same ethnicity with standardized hygienic and alimentary practices participated in a supervised indoor cycling activity. Following this session, worn T‐shirts were recovered to enable the olfactory evaluation of axillary odours by qualified experts. To go further, the microbiota from the axillary zone of each volunteer was sampled and the bacterial relative abundance was investigated by using 16S rRNA metasequencing. Then, S. hominis isolates were obtained by culturomics from these microbiota samples and the C–S lyase activity was measured by spectrofluorometry in protein crude extracts. Results: The evaluation of the odour intensity revealed that within the panel, two groups were significantly distinct. A non‐odorous group and a malodorous one with volunteers having unpleasant odours. The 16S rRNA metasequencing reveals differences in bacterial communities between the two groups with a significant increase in the relative abundance of S. hominis in the malodorous group compared with the non‐odorous one. The C–S lyase activities measured on S. hominis sampled on volunteers from the two groups demonstrate that for an equivalent quantity of protein, this enzymatic activity is significantly higher for the samples originating from the malodorous group. Conclusion: Hence, this study demonstrates that beyond the increase of S. hominis relative abundance, the C–S lyase enzymatic activity of this bacteria is also higher in volunteers with unpleasant axillary odours. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Exploring the effects of age on microbial community structure and understanding the effects of chronological ageing as well as sun exposure on microbial community diversity. Method: The microbial characteristics of the facial skin of 98 adult women aged 18–70 years were studied using 16S rRNA gene sequencing, and differences based on age and reported sun exposure were assessed. Results: The cheek skin's bacterial diversity and richness increased with age. The relative abundance of Cutibacterium decreased with age, while the relative abundance of Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, Paracoccus, Micrococcus, Kocuria, Kytococcus, and Chryseobacterium increased. In addition, an increase in Micrococcus and a decrease in Cutibacterium were observed in volunteers with more than 2 h of daily sun exposure compared to volunteers with <2 h of daily sun exposure. Under low‐sunlight conditions, Cutibacterium was more prevalent in the youth group, and Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, and Kytococcus were more prevalent in the older group. Conclusion: The diversity and composition of the bacterial community on the cheeks are affected by age and extrinsic factors (sun exposure) may also play a role in this. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives: To achieve a more beautiful and younger appearance, reducing wrinkles is a key concern. The process of wrinkle formation is complex and the development of truly effective cosmetic ingredients to reduce wrinkles remains a challenge. Recent studies have revealed a close relationship between wrinkles and skin thinning, suggesting that preventing skin thinning could also prevent wrinkle formation. In this study, we examined the role of extracellular adenosine triphosphate (eATP) in the progression of thinning, as eATP reportedly increases skin ageing factors, such as senescence‐associated secreted phenotype (SASP) factors in epidermal cells. We determined the effects of Mentha piperita leaf extract on suppressing eATP to reduce thinning and wrinkles. Methods: Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels were measured in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) in the presence of M. piperita leaf extract. Dryness, high pH, and UVB radiation were used as extrinsic ageing factors. Intrinsic skin ageing was evaluated by comparing cells from adults (AD‐NHEK) and newborns (NB‐NHEK). A placebo‐controlled in vivo study was carried out with a formulation containing 1% M. piperita leaf extract. Results: The eATP levels were significantly higher in AD‐NHEK compared with that in NB‐NHEK cells. M. piperita leaf extract significantly decreased eATP levels in adult cells. Extrinsic ageing factors increased eATP levels in NHEK, whereas M. piperita leaf extract significantly suppressed eATP under all conditions. The active components of M. piperita leaf extract, luteolin glucuronide and rosmarinic acid, also decreased eATP. Moreover, compared with placebo lotion, M. piperita leaf extract‐formulated lotion markedly increased dermal thickness and reduced wrinkles associated with crow's feet and the neck area. Conclusion: We demonstrated for the first time that M. piperita leaf extract containing rosmarinic acid and luteolin‐7‐O‐glucuronide has the potential to reduce eATP release from epidermal keratinocytes. An increase in eATP was observed not only during inflammation but also during natural ageing. Furthermore, the in vivo experiment revealing that 1% M. piperita leaf extract‐containing lotion improved dermal thinning and wrinkles across multiple areas is attributed to the amelioration of dermal thinning. Thus, our data suggest the possibility of a novel cosmetic approach for reducing skin ageing by reducing eATP‐mediated dermal thinning. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Thioredoxin (TRX), a ubiquitous protein with strong antioxidant activity, decreases in the skin with age. A decrease in TRX is expected to induce cellular senescence, chronic inflammation, and degeneration and loss of extracellular matrix (ECM), such as collagen and elastin within the skin. In this study, we investigated the effects of TRX addition to excised skin or skin models to understand the role of TRX on cells and ECM within the skin. Methods: To evaluate its effect on skin cells, we cultured a three‐dimensional (3D) skin model in a medium containing TRX. The mRNA expression levels of proteins related to elastic and collagen fibres and the basement membrane were determined. Furthermore, 3D imaging and computational analysis were performed to evaluate the effect of TRX on the elastic fibres and extending COL VII structures in excised human skin after coculturing with TRX for 1, 4, 5 and 6 days. Results: Thioredoxin application to a 3D skin model upregulated elastin, COLI and COLVII mRNA expression. Applying TRX to the excised skin increased the number of linear elastic fibres. This effect of TRX demonstrated a daily increment in a dose‐dependent manner. Thioredoxin extended the fibrous structure of COL VII into the dermis, expanding its colocalization region with elastic fibres. These structural effects were confirmed using 3D imaging and computational methods. Conclusion: Thioredoxin elongates elastic fibres from the dermis to the basement membrane and extends the COL VII structure from the basement membrane to the dermis in excised human skin. These findings suggest the potential of TRX to protect the skin against age‐related alterations such as wrinkles and sagging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Dandruff is characterised by the presence of perivascular leukocytes and mild inflammation; however, the immune microenvironment of dandruff‐affected scalp skin and the potential changes to the hair follicle's (HF) physiological immune privilege (HF IP) remain unknown. Here, we characterised the HF immune microenvironment and immune privilege status in dandruff‐affected scalp skin. Methods: We assessed relevant key parameters in healthy versus dandruff‐affected human scalp biopsies using quantitative immunohistomorphometry, laser capture microdissection, and RNA sequencing. Results: The number of epidermal CD4+ and CD8+ T cells was increased in lesional dandruff scalp skin, while the number of MHC class II+/CD1a+ Langerhans cells was decreased in the infundibulum. The number of intrafollicular and perifollicular CD4+ T cells and CD8+ T cells, perifollicular CD68+ macrophages, and tryptase+ mast cells remained unchanged. Interestingly, MHC class Ia and ß2‐microglobulin protein expression were significantly increased specifically in the suprabulbar outer root sheath (ORS) compartment of dandruff‐associated HFs. RNAseq analysis of laser capture micro‐dissected suprabulbar ORS compartment revealed antigen presentation pathway as the top regulated canonical pathway, along with the upregulation of HF‐IP genes such as HLA‐C, HLA‐DP, and TAP1, which are normally down‐regulated in healthy HFs. Intrafollicular protein expression of known HF IP guardians (CD200 and α‐MSH) and 'danger signals' (MICA and CXCL10) remained unaltered at the IP sites of dandruff lesional HFs compared to non‐lesional and healthy HFs. Instead, the expression of macrophage migration inhibiting factor (MIF), another HF IP guardian, was reduced. Conclusion: Together, this work shows that dandruff is associated with epidermal T‐cell infiltration and a weakened HF IP in the suprabulbar ORS of HFs in dandruff lesional scalp. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The structure of elastic fibres changes with ageing. Elastin microfibril interface–located protein 1 (EMILIN‐1) is known to contribute to structural changes in elastic fibres. EMILIN‐1 is one of the components of elastic fibres and also colocalizes with oxytalan fibres near the epidermis. Therefore, EMILIN‐1 may be affected by epidermal–dermal interactions. The purpose of this study is to identify the key factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions during the structural degeneration of elastic fibres. Methods: Keratinocytes and fibroblasts were co‐cultured, and changes in elastic fibre‐related proteins were evaluated. Additionally, cytokine arrays were used to identify the factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions. Results: EMILIN‐1 expression in fibroblasts was increased in the presence of keratinocytes, and its expression decreased when keratinocytes were stressed. Amphiregulin (AREG) and interleukin‐1α (IL‐1α) were identified as the keratinocyte‐derived cytokines that influence the production of EMILIN‐1, which is secreted by the fibroblasts. EMILIN‐1 expression was promoted by AREG and decreased by IL‐1α via an increase in cathepsin K (a catabolic enzyme). AREG and IL‐1α were associated with changes in EMILIN‐1 levels in fibroblasts. Conclusion: The findings suggest that the suppression of IL‐1α expression and promotion of AREG expression in the epidermis could be a new approach that prevents the wrinkles and sagging caused by the structural changes in elastic fibres. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti‐aging potential) of the stem‐bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K – (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium. Methods: Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell‐healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used. Results: Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non‐oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC‐5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC‐5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay. Conclusions: SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti‐ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion Clinical assessment of wrinkle depth is essential for efficacy evaluations of anti‐ageing products. Standardized photographic scales, representative of different wrinkle depths are often used by experts to assign subjects reliable grades. These tools, based on real pictures, usually exist as hard copies (printed books or sheets) for in vivo gradings. Our project aims at developing a methodology to create digital standardized computer‐generated scales, allowing photograph and real‐life gradings, and providing raters with greater comfort, accessibility, and flexibility in their construction, thanks to the artificial intelligence significative contribution.A completely new approach, based on machine learning, allows the creation of Standardized ColorFace® AI‐based Wrinkle Assessment (SCAWA) scales. Instead of using real photographs, the scale images are computer‐generated. A generative adversarial network (GAN) is trained to create realistic wrinkle samples that are finely controllable by exploring the GAN latent space. Finally, the scale images are selected among hundreds of artificial images depicting natural wrinkle appearances, such as the illustrated wrinkle evolution is well‐detailed (small gaps between grades), morphologically stable, and mathematically linear according to a criterion of wrinkle conspicuous depth.The created 12‐point scale for crow's feet wrinkle evaluation on ColorFace® pictures is proven to be realistic, linear, and robustly and accurately usable for photograph assessments. The scale coherence in terms of image ranking has been validated, as well as its reliability and acceptability in real conditions of use. Additionally, the wrinkle grades obtained by the SCAWA scale are well correlated (R = 0.94) with the ones obtained by the Skin Aging Atlas on the same pictures. The AI methodology and digital format brought also interesting side results, such as an enhanced harmonization between experts and a higher representativeness, that is, a decrease of out‐of‐range pictures.SCAWA scale makes the most of machine learning to provide an innovative digital tool to ease wrinkles in visual assessment of pictures, while optimizing linearity, homogeneity, and accuracy aspects. The experts' enthusiastic feedback about the scale format and quality is promising regarding the adaptation of the methodology to other signs and a larger distribution of this tool in the market of cosmetic product efficacy assessment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion Basic therapy is an integral part of the treatment of chronic skin diseases. However, the formulation of skin products should be analysed with respect to the physical stability and tolerance by the patients before applying them to diseased skin. In particular, the suitability of the formulation for use on damaged skin should be taken into consideration so that no exacerbation of the condition is caused.The following approach investigated two formulations with the emulsifier sorbitan monostearate and one with the addition of polyethylene glycol 100 stearyl ether. The characterization included rheology, macroscopic and microscopic cream analysis compared to marketed products for basic therapy. Pyranine staining of stratum corneum (SC) and trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed with ex vivo porcine SC to asses skin barrier function.The rheological characterization showed a gel‐like, viscoelastic behaviour of the formulations and a viscosity in the same order of magnitude as the marketed products. Staining with pyranine revealed that skin damage caused by sodium lauryl sulfate was compensated by treatment with the developed formulations. Following the same trend, TEWL results clearly showed decreasing values, which evidence improved skin barrier function.In conclusion, the developed sorbitan monostearate formulations can potentially improve deficient skin barrier function as a part of basic therapy of skin diseases and act as a superior alternative to market products comprising a minimum of well‐chosen ingredients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion Skin elasticity, which is vital for a youthful appearance, depends on the elastic fibres in the dermis. However, these fibres deteriorate with ageing, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Changes that occur in the elastic fibres in living human skin and the relationship between elastic fibres and the state of the skin surface remain unclear. Therefore, it is necessary to verify the relationship between elastic fibres and skin elasticity. In this study, we investigated the association of the elastic fibre structure with skin elasticity and stratum corneum protein content in living human skin.Thirty‐five female volunteers aged 25–66 years were included in this study. Elastic fibres were observed using a multiphoton scanning laser biomicroscope. Skin elasticity was measured using a Cutometer, and stratum corneum proteins (Heat‐shock protein 27 [HSP27] and galectin‐7 [Gal‐7]) in tape‐stripped samples were analysed using an enzyme‐linked immunosorbent assay.Elastic fibres exhibited increased curvature and thickness with increased age, with fragmentation observed in women aged >60 years. Elastin scores, which reflect thinness and curvature, were negatively correlated with age, whereas they were positively correlated with R7 elasticity (recovery ability). In individuals aged 20–30 years, higher levels of inflammatory markers (HSP27 and Gal‐7) correlated with lower elastin scores; however, this trend was not observed in older participants.Elastic fibre deterioration worsened after 40 years of age, and this effect correlated with reduced skin recovery and increased wrinkles. In younger individuals, inflammatory markers affected elastic fibres. These findings can guide anti‐ageing strategies that focus on elastic fibre preservation and inflammation control. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper‐ and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal–epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all‐trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All‐trans retinoic acid is considered the ‘gold standard’ for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription‐only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well‐tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ceramides are a family of lipids constituted by a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the skin, they are mainly present in the stratum corneum where, with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they constitute the inter‐corneocyte lipids. With the other lipid groups, they play a key role in the formation of dense lamellar structures between adjacent corneocytes, collectively ensuring the vital efficient barrier to water evaporation and protection from foreign agents´ penetration. Changes in ceramide level and relative composition, with potential impairment of lipid arrangement, have been evidenced in different skin conditions and skin diseases. Therefore, use of suitably formulated ceramides has been proposed for topical treatment to help re‐structure damaged lipid arrangement and repair impaired skin barrier function. Nonetheless, the formulation of ceramides in products necessitates specific processes such as heating to high temperature before their introduction in the final formula. In this review on the structure, the role and the potential of ceramides for skincare, we point out the necessity of rigorous process when formulating ceramides into the final product. We demonstrate the counterproductive effects of undissolved ceramides on skin barrier repair capacity of the formulas, when assessed in different in vitro models of disrupted skin barrier. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Complexities of robotic distal gastrectomy (RDG) give reason to assess physician's surgical skill. Varying levels in surgical skill affect patient outcomes. We aim to investigate how a novel artificial intelligence (AI) model can be used to evaluate surgical skill in RDG by recognizing surgical instruments. Methods: Fifty‐five consecutive robotic surgical videos of RDG for gastric cancer were analyzed. We used Deeplab, a multi‐stage temporal convolutional network, and it trained on 1234 manually annotated images. The model was then tested on 149 annotated images for accuracy. Deep learning metrics such as Intersection over Union (IoU) and accuracy were assessed, and the comparison between experienced and non‐experienced surgeons based on usage of instruments during infrapyloric lymph node dissection was performed. Results: We annotated 540 Cadiere forceps, 898 fenestrated bipolars, 359 suction tubes, 307 Maryland bipolars, 688 harmonic scalpels, 400 staplers, and 59 large clips. The average IoU and accuracy were 0.82 ± 0.12% and 87.2 ± 11.9% respectively. Moreover, the percentage of each instrument's usage to overall infrapyloric lymphadenectomy duration predicted by AI were compared. The use of stapler and large clip were significantly shorter in the experienced group compared to the non‐experienced group. Conclusions: This study is the first to report that surgical skill can be successfully and accurately determined by an AI model for RDG. Our AI gives us a way to recognize and automatically generate instance segmentation of the surgical instruments present in this procedure. Use of this technology allows unbiased, more accessible RDG surgical skill. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Anthony V. Rawlings has had 30+ years of experience in the general area of skin science. He has many scientific publications, and his work has been highly cited. He has made major contributions to our understanding of skin physiology, including xerosis and hydration, barrier function, desquamation, the corneocyte envelope, physical chemistry of stratum corneum lipids, photodamage and ethnic variation. He has held management positions with several companies in the US and UK, established AVR Consulting in 2002 and maintained a long‐standing relationship with colleagues at University College London. His time as the Editor in Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was pivotal in the development of the journal. He worked hard and succeeded in getting the IJCS included in the PubMed database. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Atopic dermatitis has a marked economic impact and affects the quality of life. A cosmetic compound with an innovative strategy is proposed here as a small chemical neutraligand, GPN279 (previously identified as a theophylline derivative), that binds and potently neutralizes the TARC/CCL17 chemokine, activating the Th2 cell‐expressed CCR4 receptor. Objective: Our objective was to evaluate the safety and activity of topically applied GPN279 in mild‐to‐moderate atopic dermatitis patients in a randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled, parallel group trial. Such cosmetic active ingredient targeting dry skin with an atopic tendency would open a parallel strategy to the pharmaceutical approach, in particular for mild to moderate subjects, as an alternative to reduce the evolution towards severe forms of atopy. Methods: This 4‐week trial included adults with mild‐to‐moderate atopic dermatitis, according to the SCORAD index. Patients were randomized into two groups treated by topical applications of either an emulsion containing 0.44% GPN279 in placebo on skin lesions or the placebo (4.56% glycerin). Clinical activity was evaluated with the SCORAD as the primary objective. As secondary objectives, POEM, erythema, skin moisturization, its barrier function (TEWL) and safety were evaluated. Results: Twenty‐one patients in each group completed the study. SCORAD was significantly improved in the GPN279 group vs. placebo. GPN279 also significantly improved POEM, induced a rapid and significant decrease of erythema, and improved skin moisture. GPN279 and placebo were well tolerated throughout the study. Conclusion: A cosmetic cream comprising the CCL17 neutraligand GPN279 improved the skin barrier and physiology criteria in patients with mild‐to‐moderate atopic dermatitis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: External environmental stressors and internal factors have a significant impact on the skin, causing inflammation, aging, reduced immunity and other adverse responses. Dead Sea Water (DSW) is well known for its dermatological benefits and has been widely used in dermatological therapy and skin care for conditions such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and photoaging. However, the anti‐aging and rejuvenating effects of DSW and the related biological pathways involved, which have attracted increasing attention, are not fully understood. The aim of this study is to investigate the anti‐aging and rejuvenating effects of DSW and to explore the related potential biological mechanisms of DSW under different environmental conditions. Methods: The effects of DSW were investigated using in vitro human dermal cells and reconstructed skin models. Extracellular matrix (ECM) components and the morphological changes at the dermal‐epidermal junction (DEJ) in a 3D human skin model were evaluated after DSW treatment. RNA sequencing (RNA‐seq) analysis of human dermal fibroblast models after DSW treatment was performed to explore the potential mechanisms of action of DSW under normal and UV stress conditions. Results: The novel findings in this work present the biological functions of DSW, including procollagen‐1 and elastin secretion, hemidesmosome increase and the epidermal basal cell regeneration. In addition, GO, KEGG and Reactome analyses reveal the activation of pathways related to ion transmembrane transporter activity, ECM component biosynthesis, senescence‐associated secretory phenotype (SASP), DNA repair and autophagy, which are associated with the anti‐aging activities of DSW. Conclusion: Our work provides new perspectives for understanding the anti‐aging and rejuvenating effects and mechanisms of DSW. The new findings also provide a theoretical basis for the further development of age‐related strategies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Advanced glycation end‐products (AGEs) represent a large group of compounds generated by a non‐enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups. The formation and accumulation of AGEs in the skin lead to protein crosslinking, dermal stiffening and yellowing, which ultimately contribute to cutaneous ageing. Amino acids have been described to exhibit anti‐glycation effects. The objective of this study was to understand the inhibitory role of the amino acid derivative N‐acetyl‐L‐hydroxyproline (NAHP) as an anti‐glycation active for human skin. Methods: A cell‐free assay investigating the inhibition of glycation of serum albumin by NAHP was used to determine the capability of NAHP to decrease AGE formation. Also, by assessing the amount of the AGE N‐(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) the anti‐glycation abilities of NAHP were investigated utilizing dot blot analysis. The improvement of cell–matrix interaction by NAHP was determined in vitro using a glycated fibroblast‐populated collagen lattice (FPCL) dermis model. In skin biopsies, AGE autofluorescence was determined after treatment with NAHP and/or glucose ex vivo. Results: NAHP significantly and dose‐dependently inhibited levels of AGEs, which were induced by the glycation of a protein solution. This decrease could be visualized by showing that the brownish appearance as well as the AGE‐specific fluorescence of glucose‐treated samples were reduced after the application of increasing amounts of NAHP. Also, CML formation was dose‐dependently inhibited by NAHP. In FPCLs, the contractile capacity of fibroblasts was significantly disturbed after glycation. This could be prevented by the addition of NAHP. Compared to glyoxal‐treated samples, the co‐application of NAHP significantly decreased the diameter as well as the weight of glycated FPCLs. Ex vivo application of glucose to skin explants showed a higher AGE fluorescence signal compared to control explants. Co‐treatment with NAHP and glucose decreased the level of AGE fluorescence in comparison to glucose‐treated explants. Conclusion: These data provide clear evidence that under glycation stress conditions treatment with NAHP inhibited AGE formation in vitro and ex vivo and prevented the loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated dermis model. Thus, NAHP obviously provides a beneficial treatment option to counteract AGE‐related changes in human skin such as dermal stiffening and yellowish skin appearance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Esthetic procedures are currently among the most effective options for consumers seeking to correct aging signs such as fine lines, wrinkles, and skin tone unevenness. Currently, there is a scientific need for an adjunct active to be paired with esthetic procedures to encourage wound recovery and address postprocedure pigmentation concerns. Objective: Toward that goal, this study assessed the efficacy of a peptide created from a multi‐component reaction (multi‐component peptide, MCP) as a model active for postprocedure care and evaluated its ability to promote skin healing in an ablative laser‐induced wound model on the forearm. Methods: The mechanism of action of MCP was investigated using tubo assays, 2D melanocyte, and fibroblast cultures, reconstructed skin equivalents, and ex vivo skin explants. The MCP formula and the clinical benchmark formula of Aquaphor were assessed head‐to‐head by applying the products topically in an ablative laser‐induced wound model (n = 20 subjects). The promotion of wound healing was evaluated by the investigator assessment of epithelial confluence, crusting or scabbing, general wound appearance, erythema, and edema. Results: MCP was determined to be beneficial to postprocedure skin recovery and healing by four main mechanisms of action: barrier repair as determined in an ex vivo tape‐stripping model, reduction of inflammation and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, reduction of elastase activity, and stimulation of fibroblast through the mTOR pathway. The formula containing 10% MCP enhanced the kinetics of epithelial confluence and improvement of the crusting or scabbing appearance of the laser‐generated wounds in a laser‐induced mini‐zone wound healing study on the forearm. Conclusion: This study demonstrates the use of MCP as a proof of concept regenerative active that when incorporated into an optimized postprocedure skincare formula can improve skin healing and enhance the appearance of skin after injury with relevance to ablative aesthetic procedures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Introduction: The skin is of all the organs of the body that is directly and constantly exposed to external agents. Hence the importance of providing all the necessary nutrients to keep it healthy, cared for and hydrated. When this does not happen, the skin begins to lose water, becomes dehydrated, and can be seriously injured. With this intention, a moisturizing serum with natural active ingredients has been designed and developed. It has been developed and characterized through various studies. In addition, it includes a strain of the probiotic species Lactobacillus fermentum CECT 5716, as an innovation, to enhance the synergistic effect of the product. Method: The cited product is characterized by pH, conductivity, and viscosity measurements to test its stability. Besides it is studied to probiotic viability and consumers’ perception of the product’s efficacy. Results: Data extracted from pH and conductivity measurements assure that the topical application of our serum is safe, as it does the consumers’ perception of the product’s efficacy study, offering it a better appearance in terms of smoothness and luminosity. This research has revealed the serum’s pseudoplastic characteristics, optimal for its purpose. Lastly, it has been seen that probiotic viability decreases with time. Conclusions: Based on the results we obtained; it can be affirmed that our moisturizing serum is safe and effective in skin hydration, due to the properties of the raw materials incorporated and the competitive mechanism of the probiotics included.

Objective: Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a known environmental key factor for premature skin ageing. Only few scientific evidence is available to support the effects of UVR on the skin microbiome. This in vivo pilot study aimed to evaluate the impact on the skin microbiome upon erythemal UV exposure and the protection of UV‐exposed skin microbiome by UV filters. Methods: Ten female volunteers were treated with an sun protection factor (SPF) 20 sunscreen and placebo formulation (without UV filters) on their upper middle backs and irradiated with an erythemal dose (2 MED) by a solar simulator. Skin swabbing samples from four zones (i.e., unexposed, exposed, sunscreen‐ and placebo‐treated on exposed skin) were collected for the microbiome analysis before and 2 h after UV exposure, respectively, and processed via shallow 16S rRNA Amplicon and Shotgun metagenomic sequencing. An in vitro UV method was developed to confirm the protection of isolated bacterial strains by single UV filters and combinations. Results: Alpha diversity was impacted by significant inter‐individual differences and by treatment rather than by irradiation. Cutibacterium acnes was found to be the most abundant and a confounding factor for diversity. On a species level, Lactobacillus crispatus was negatively associated with UVR and placebo treatment, whereas there was a positive association with sunscreen treatment. The sunscreen treatment also favoured an interaction network with central Micrococcus genus. The in vitro results showed that both single UV filters and combinations had specific effects on the survival rates of L. crispatus, C. acnes, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Conclusion: We identified potential microorganisms and bacterial interactions that were associated with an SPF 20 sunscreen treatment. The specific protection of L. crispatus as a key player in the UV‐exposed skin microbiome and reduction of C. acnes population by UV filters might lead to new cosmetic concepts for photoprotection. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L‐4‐thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non‐proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. Methods: In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46–66 years old with mild‐to‐moderate wrinkles. Results: In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro‐collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post‐treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. Conclusion: L4 is a novel, multi‐functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Intensive studies have revealed that pleiotropic melanocytic factors are associated with age‐spot formation. Dysfunctional keratinocyte differentiation is thought to be an upstream cause of age‐spot formation. Although it has been shown that keratinocyte differentiation is mediated by the cell–cell contact factor E‐cadherin, its involvement in age‐spot formation remains unknown. Thus, to determine the origin of age‐spots and an integrated solution for the same, we focused on E‐cadherin expression in the present study. Methods: First, we assessed the solar lentigines in cutaneous and cultured cells by means of immunofluorescence staining. Following that, keratinocytes treated with siRNAs against E‐cadherin were co‐cultured with melanocytes, and the secreted factors were identified by means of proteomic analysis of the culture supernatants. We also performed quantitative PCR to assess melanogenesis activity and screen ingredients. For behavioural analysis of melanocytes, we performed time‐lapse imaging using confocal laser scanning microscopy. Results: E‐cadherin expression was downregulated in the epidermis of the solar lentigines, suggesting its involvement in age‐spot formation. E‐cadherin knocked down keratinocytes not only promoted the secretion of melanocytic/inflammatory factors but also increased melanogenesis by upregulating the expression of melanogenesis factors. Furthermore, live‐imaging showed that the downregulation of E‐cadherin inhibited melanocyte dynamics and accelerated melanin uptake. Finally, we identified Rosa multiflora fruit extract as a solution that can upregulate E‐cadherin expression in keratinocytes. Conclusion: Our findings showed that E‐cadherin downregulation triggers various downstream melanocytic processes, such as the secretion of melanocytic factors and melanogenesis. Additionally, we showed that the Rosa multiflora fruit extract upregulated E‐cadherin expression in keratinocytes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Dark circles affect subjects of all ages and in all skin types. They can be treated by various methods, particular by topical solutions. This investigation was directed towards exploring the effect of gentiopicroside (GP) on the skin around the eyes. For this, an extract of Gentiana lutea (GIE) containing GP (65% by dry matter) was evaluated on oxidant and angiogenesis parameters using in vitro and ex‐vivo studies. A clinical experimentation was also realized. Methods: The effect of GIE at different concentrations on antioxidant gene was evaluated in vitro by RT‐qPCR after treatment of NHDF. The effect of 2.93 μg mL−1 GIE on the release of VEGF‐A and VEGF‐C by NHDF was also studied. The effect of 87.9 μg mL−1 GIE was also evaluated on pseudotube formation in a coculture system of normal dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMVEC‐d)‐NHDF stimulated or not with VEGF as pro‐angiogenic factor. Prior to these assays, preliminary cytotoxicity assays were performed using a standard WST‐8 reduction assay. The expressions of carboxymethyl‐lysine and glyoxalase‐1 were quantified on skin explants topically treated with 147 μg mL−1 GIE in basal and UVA‐irradiated conditions. A clinical study was conducted in 22 subjects using topical twice daily for 14 days on eye area (split‐face application: cream containing 147 μg mL−1 GIE versus placebo). 3D image acquisition and skin colour measurement were performed at D0 and D14. Results: Treatment of GIE upregulated the gene expression of NFE2L2 and downregulated the expression of CXCL8. GIE targeted AGEs pathways and reduced the formation of pseudotubes. A total of 147 μg mL−1 GIE gel cream significantly reduced significantly the average roughness and relief of the upper eyelid skin as well as the redness of dark circles after 14 days of application. Conclusion: By acting on the pathway of AGEs, VEGF‐A and VEFG‐C, GIE seems to allow a rejuvenation of the skin resulting, among others, in a decrease in redness. It now would be interesting to evaluate the efficacy of GIE on skin around eyes microbiota, antibacterial gentiopicroside property being well‐established. By acting on the pathway of AGEs, VEGF‐A and VEFG‐C, extract of Gentiana lutea seems to allow a rejuvenation of the skin resulting, among other things, in a decrease in redness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non‐invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC‐TBARS‐EVSC (high‐performance liquid chromatography–thiobarbituric acid reactive substances–ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. Methods: The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA‐TBA2 (malondialdehyde–thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape‐stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. Results: Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. Conclusions: It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV‐induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC‐TBARS‐EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Dark circles in the infraorbital area are a common cosmetic concern among individuals because they exhibit fatigue and are undesirable across all ages. Of the dark circle etiologies, blood stasis by poor‐vascular integrity can cause darkening of the lower eyelid skin, which might be alleviated by reduced endothelial permeability. In this study, we investigated the effects of Salix alba bark extract (SABE) on the synthesis of hyaluronic acid (HA) in fibroblasts and vascular integrity protection from inflammatory cytokine. We also performed a clinical trial investigating the effect of SABE on dark circles. Methods: To confirm the effect of SABE on HA synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), we performed ELISA and real‐time PCR. We investigated the interaction HDF‐secreted substance with vascular integrity, and human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMEC‐1) were treated with conditioned medium (CM) from HDF treated with or without SABE. Subsequently, we conducted a clinical study on 29 subjects by having them apply SABE containing cream for 8 weeks. Results: Salix alba bark extract treatment increased HA synthesis and regulated HMW–HA‐related gene expressions in HDF. CM from SABE‐treated HDF alleviated endothelial permeability and led to improved vascular integrity in HMEC‐1 cells. Treatment with the cream containing 2% SABE for 8 weeks improved the parameters measuring dark circles, skin microcirculation and elasticity. Conclusion: Our results showed that SABE could protect against dark circles in vitro, and that topical treatment of SABE improved the clinical indexes of dark circles in a clinical study. Therefore, SABE can be used as an active ingredient for improving dark circles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Throughout our existence, the skin senses and analyses the mechanical forces imposed by the environment. In response to these environmental forces, skin can deform itself and achieve a biological response. The subsequent cutaneous plasticity emerges from mechanical properties arising from the collective action of the skin cells, particularly keratinocytes, that govern the tensile strength via cell‐to‐cell adhesions and via cell–matrix adhesion structures. In addition to serving as force‐bearing entities, keratinocytes respond to forces by activating signalling pathways to control their own fate and function. To detect and adapt to mechanical signals, keratinocytes possess a panel of sensory receptors and junctional intercellular structures. Mechanically activated ion channel Piezo1 has been described as a force sensor and as being involved in pleasant touch perception. In this study, relationships between Piezo1 modulation and oxytocin synthesis were investigated. Methods: The expression of Piezo1 in the skin was studied and compared with the expression of TRPV1. Dooku1 antagonist and Jedi1 agonist were used to modulate Piezo1. The level of E‐cadherin and oxytocin was monitored in ex vivo skin biopsies by immunodetection. Results: Taken together, our results illustrate the major role of mechanosensitive ion channel Piezo1 in skin barrier integrity, and in peripheral oxytocin synthesis in the skin. Conclusion: In conclusion, this study highlights the relationships between pleasant touch, soft touch and local oxytocin synthesis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Objective: ε‐Poly‐l‐lysine (PLL) is a cationic polymer consisting of 25–35 l‐lysine residues. Our previous study revealed that fluorescently labelled PLL can stain the stratum corneum (SC) via ionic interactions between PLL and SC constituents. In this study, to further clarify the mechanisms underlying the interaction between PLL and the SC, the staining properties of fluorescent PLL were compared with that of fluorescently labelled anionic dextran (aDex), which has approximately the same molecular weight as PLL. Methods: SC samples were collected by non‐invasive tape stripping and stained with fluorescent PLL and/or fluorescent aDex. Fluorescence images were acquired using a fluorescence microscope and then analysed. Results: The SC could be stained with either fluorescent PLL or aDex, both of which were inhibited by the addition of high concentrations of salt solutions. In particular, aDex staining was inhibited at a lower salt concentration than PLL staining. Moreover, PLL staining was inhibited under acidic conditions, while aDex staining was inhibited under neutral to alkaline conditions. Double staining of SC with both fluorescent polymers produced heterogeneous staining patterns: corneocytes stained with both polymers, corneocytes stained with PLL or aDex in a mutually exclusive manner, and unstained corneocytes. Staining of SC samples from the face was more extensive than staining of SC samples from the inside of the upper arm with both polymers. In addition, pretreatment of the SC with ethanol resulted in enhanced staining with both polymers. These results suggest that double staining of SC with both polymers can provide information on the damaged SC. Conclusion: Staining of SC with fluorescent PLL depends on its properties of a cationic and hydrophobic polymer with appropriate molecular size, which can distinguish the damaged SC. Double staining of SC with fluorescent PLL and aDex is a novel approach to obtain information for the analysis of skin conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Various histological studies of facial pigmented spot sites such as solar lentigo have been reported, but few studies have used quantitative indices by histomorphometric analysis of the internal structure of pigmented spot sites using non‐invasive methods. In the present study, to quantitatively elucidate morphological changes in the epidermis in male, darker‐pigmented spots and female, light‐pigmented spots, indices that characterize the internal structure of the epidermis in pigmented spot sites were measured using in vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). Methods: The darkness of pigmented spots on the cheeks of 69 women and 43 men was analysed using image analysis software. The L* value was calculated from RGB values obtained from facial images. The internal structures of pigmented spots on the cheeks of 13 subjects were observed by CLSM. Various parameters were measured using CLSM images from the surface of the stratum corneum to the bottom of the dermal papillae, including the thickness of the epidermis, melanosome content, and shape of the dermal papillae. Results: Mean ΔL* values between pigmented spots and non‐pigmented areas of male subjects were significantly increased in the 40s and 50s compared with those of female subjects. Conspicuous pigmented spots increased in the 40s in male subjects and the 50s in female subjects. In CLSM observations, significant increases in the thickness of the epidermis and melanosome content were confirmed in pigmented spots compared with surrounding non‐pigmented areas. In particular, melanosome content in the male subject group with dark‐coloured pigmented spots increased significantly to about eight times that of non‐pigmented areas, and more than double that of the male subject group with light‐coloured pigmented spots. Conclusion: From the measurements of quantitative parameters, morphological changes in the epidermis were clearly related to the surface colour tone of pigmented spots. Darker pigmented spot sites tended to show longer rete pegs in the epidermis. Accumulation of melanosomes in epidermal basal cells could be considered to increase with the degree of elongation of rete pegs at pigmented spot sites and, thus, induce darker pigmented spots. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ObjectiveAlmonds are a rich source of fatty acids and antioxidants, and their supplementation is known to significantly modulate serum lipids. The effects of almond on the skin's lipid barrier and the appearance of wrinkles have not yet been elucidated. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of almond consumption on facial sebum production and wrinkles.MethodsThis was a prospective, investigator-blinded, randomized controlled trial in which subjects consumed 20% of their daily energy consumption in either almonds or a calorie-matched snack for 16 weeks. This study was completed at the UC Davis Dermatology clinic. Participants were a volunteer sample of generally healthy postmenopausal females with Fitzpatrick skin types 1 and 2. A facial photograph and image analysis system was used to obtain standardized photographs and information on wrinkle width and severity at 0, 8, and 16 weeks. Measurements of transepidermal water loss and sebum production were also completed at 0, 8, and 16 weeks.ResultsFifty healthy postmenopausal females were recruited, 31 participants were enrolled, and 28 completed the study. Under photographic analysis, the almond group had significantly decreased wrinkle severity and width compared with the control group at 16 weeks (p < .02). Changes in skin barrier function were nonsignificant, measured by the transepidermal water loss (p = .65) between the almond and control groups relative to baseline after 16 weeks. No adverse effects were reported.ConclusionOur study demonstrates that daily almond consumption may reduce wrinkle severity in postmenopausal females to potentially have natural antiaging benefits.

Objective: Air pollution is today fully acknowledged to be a significant public health problem. Rapid urbanization exposed us to a variety of unhealthy ambient air pollutants at high concentrations. The emergence of airborne ultrafine particles has added an additional dimension to this already complex problem of air pollution. The skin has different functions, one of them being the protection against the deleterious effect of external agents. The aim of this study is to evaluate the impact of airborne ultrafine particles (UFP) pollution on skin aging and on keratinocyte differentiation. Methods: Ex vivo human skin biopsies and cultured keratinocytes stem cells (KSC) were submitted to diesel exhaust‐derived UFP. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was assessed with the MitoSOX™ probe. Keratinocyte stemness potential was evaluated by the immunodetection of keratin 15 (K15) and p63 (∆N isoforms). Effect of UFP on the epithelial niche maintenance was evaluated by immunodetection of Sox9. Reconstructed epidermis model was used to assess the impact of UFP on keratinocyte differentiation and aging. Results: UFP exposure induced ROS production and disturbed K15, ∆Np63 and Sox9 expression in KSC or ex vivo skin. Finally, investigations on reconstructed epidermis revealed a phenotype marked by impaired keratinocyte differentiation. Conclusion: These results indicate that UFP pollution is a potent extrinsic factor of skin aging, affecting the keratinocyte stem cell potential and the skin renewal process. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A retinol tolerance study was therefore designed to safely and as closely as possible reflect the consumer experience of retinol formulation application, tolerance and compliance at home. Keywords: formulation; photodamage; skin barrier; skin physiology/structure EN formulation photodamage skin barrier skin physiology/structure 625 635 11 11/10/22 20221201 NES 221201 This investigation focusses on changes to the cutaneous anatomy in response to increasing concentrations of retinol (0.1%, 0.3%, and 1% retinol), as compared with baseline and vehicle control-treated skin. These individuals were categorized with those reporting mild reactions that were considered to fall within the scope of acceptable responses to a topical retinol skin care regimen. gl In the 0.3% retinol cohort, nine volunteers (7.8%) reported having a moderate reaction and two (1.7%) reported having a severe reaction, with two of the volunteers (1.7%) in this cohort having reactions that were "unclassified" as no severity information was received from the participant. Both vehicle and 0.1% retinol occlusion resulted in a small increase in FRM over baseline values (mean ± SEM; baseline, 2.3 ± 0.2; vehicle, 3.1 ± 0.2; 0.1% retinol, 3.0 ± 0.3; Figure 2a), reaching levels of significance in response to both 0.3% (3.6 ± 0.1, I p i < 0.01) and 1% retinol products (3.3 ± 0.2, I p i < 0.05). [Extracted from the article]

Objective: Currently, nasolabial folds are mainly removed by invasive procedures, resulting in long-lasting changes, as non-surgical user-implementable alternatives are scarce and inefficient. For example, the use of coating films for this purpose has thus far faced substantial difficulties because such films should combine the antithetical properties of shrinkability and flexibility. Herein, we challenge this status quo by identifying a polymer that simultaneously exhibits shrinkability and flexibility and using this polymer to develop a cosmetic formulation for immediate and non-invasive nasolabial fold removal., Methods: The developed formulation, namely a solution of norbornene/tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylnorbornene copolymer in disiloxane, was tested on a group of Japanese women using visual evaluation, three-dimensional shape analysis and ultrasonography. The polymer film obtained upon drying the formulation was subjected to shrinkage and flexibility tests, and its synchronization with the skin was examined using optical microscopy. The free volume of the polymer films was evaluated using positron annihilation measurements and molecular dynamics simulations., Results: Upon application, the liquid formulation rapidly dries to produce a skin-synchronized polymer film that exhibits significant drying-induced shrinkage without cracking, thereby exerting a lift-up effect and inducing changes in the internal skin structure to efficiently reduce the nasolabial fold, providing a feeling of rejuvenation. On average, the proposed treatment decreases the nasolabial fold depth by 1 mm, increases the opening angle of the nasolabial fold by 11.5° and reduces the hypodermis thickness by 0.2 mm., Conclusion: Our results facilitate the development of cosmetic products targeting the nasolabial fold and inspire further research in this field., (© 2025 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Objective: The epidermis possesses the capacity to replace dying cells and to heal wounds, thanks to resident stem cells, which have self‐renewal properties. In skin physiology, miRNAs have been shown to be involved in many processes, including skin and hair morphogenesis. Recently, differentiation of epidermal stem cells was shown to be promoted by the miR‐203. The miR‐203 is upregulated during epidermal differentiation and is of interest because of significant targets. Methods: By utilizing a bioinformatic tool, we identified a target site for miR‐203 in the survivin mRNA. Silencing miR‐203 was managed with the use of antagomir; the silencing of survivin was performed with a siRNA. Survivin expression was determined by qPCR or immunofluorescence in cultured cells, and by immunohistochemistry in skin sections. Involucrin expression was used as marker of keratinocyte differentiation. A rice extract with previously demonstrated anti‐aging properties was evaluated on miR‐203 modulation. Results: In this study, we identified a miR‐203/survivin axis, important for epidermal homeostasis. We report that differentiation of keratinocyte is dependent on the level of miR‐203 expression and that inhibition of miR‐203 can increase the expression of survivin, an epidermal marker of stemness. Conclusion: In summary, our findings suggest that miR‐203 target 3′UTR region of survivin mRNA and directly represses survivin expression in the epidermis. The rice extract was identified as modulator of miR‐203 and pointed out as a promising microRNA‐based strategy in treating skin changes occurring with aging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives: Translucent skin is an attribute widely appreciated by people in East Asian countries. There have been studies in the literature to describe the phenomenon by means of clinical grading, instrumental measurement and image analysis. However, due to its subjective and complex nature, skin translucency has not been comprehensively and rigorously characterized and modelled, particularly in the Chinese population. This study is to develop a mathematical model that quantitatively describes skin translucency from visual cues objectively measured from the skin. Materials and Methods: The study was designed to characterize and model skin translucency by incorporating expert evaluation, panel perception and image analysis of multiple skin visual attributes in one analysis. Faces of 36 Chinese females aged 18–65 years old were evaluated by a dermatologist to obtain clinical translucency scores. Subject pairs were formed with a relatively high and low translucency score in each pair. Their faces were judged in person by 9 panellists in paired‐comparison (2‐AFC) fashion to pick a 'more translucent skin' from each subject pair. Front‐view facial images of the subjects were taken, and multiple colour and other visually perceivable skin attributes were measured using image analysis. Bradley‐Terry analysis and multiple regressions were performed to correlate the panel choices of 'more translucent skin' with the objectively measured skin parameters. Results: Multiple skin colour properties affected the panel choices towards translucent skin. Among them skin tone lightness and skin glossiness had positive effects on skin translucency while the hue, colour unevenness, severity of red and dark spots affected it negatively. Subsurface light reflection and skin visual smoothness had some effect but were not statistically significant. A mathematical model was constructed to predict a person's skin translucency from objectively measured skin attributes. Conclusion: The subjective property of skin translucency can be characterized and quantified via a comprehensive modelling process involving clinical grading, panel evaluation, image‐based measurement of skin attributes and statistical analysis. A novel skin parameter, Skin Translucency Index (STI) was established, which provides a way to measure skin translucency, making it possible to assess treatment efficacy before and after product application. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: To assess the in vitro efficacy on antioxidant potential, protection against global oxidative stress, and effect on collagen neosynthesis of minimalist formula (Peptide‐C ampoules product) containing 10% natural vitamin C, rice and lupin bio‐peptides, hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (active mix). Methods: In‐tube quantitative tests ("in‐tube screening") assessed global antioxidant properties, anti‐lipid peroxidation, anti‐protein glycosylation, and metalloproteinase inhibition (anti‐collagenase, anti‐elastase, and anti‐hyaluronidase activity) properties of the formula. Protection against oxidative stress was evaluated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures, and collagen neosynthesis was quantified on fibroblast monolayer cultures treated with supernatants from product‐treated reconstructed human epidermis. Results: Product (5% concentration) showed high antioxidant ability (blocking 99.0% oxidation), protection against oxidative stress damage (51.8% lipid peroxidation and 37.8% protein glycosylation decreases), and inhibition of hyaluronidase (21.9%), elastase (47.1%), and collagenase (61.8%). The protective effect was validated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures in the presence of active mix (0.025%). Oxidative stress (ROS) was reduced by 99.0%, while global oxidative stress (RMS) induced by pollution, UVA radiation, and a combination of both factors was reduced by 48.94%, 8.7%, and 96.28%, respectively. The product increased collagen neosynthesis (11.21%) by cellular dialogue in fibroblasts incubated with product/mix‐treated‐RHE supernatants. Conclusion: The combination of ingredients in the product showed high global antioxidant capacity, as well as a protective effect against oxidative stress induced by UVA, pollution, or both combined factors and an ability to stimulate collagen neosynthesis in in vitro studies, which support the clinical efficacy of this product. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: The face is a cosmetically sensitive region where the process of ageing is most clearly manifested. With increased focus on anti‐ageing and longevity, more anti‐senescent treatments are being proposed despite limited evidence. This study outlines the pathways and mechanisms underpinning the biological process of ageing in the face. Methods: Comprehensive searches of MEDLINE, EMBASE, Cochrane Library and CINAHL from inception to 2020. Inclusion criteria included all empirical human research studies specific to facial ageing features, written in the English language. Results: A total of 65 papers met inclusion criteria for analysis. Pathways were subdivided into intrinsic and extrinsic senescence mechanisms. Intrinsic pathways included genetics, generation of reactive oxygen species and hormonal changes. Extrinsic pathways included photoageing and damage to skin layers. The combined intrinsic and extrinsic pathway alterations result in wrinkles, higher laxity, slackness and thinning of the skin. Skin functions such as barrier immune function, wound healing, thermoregulation and sensory function are also impaired. Conclusion: The ageing process is unique to the individual and depends on the interplay between an individual's genetics and external environmental factors. Through understanding the molecular and cellular mechanisms, an appreciation of the consequent structural and functional changes can be achieved. Based on this knowledge, further research can focus on how to slow or impede the ageing process and identify specific targets to develop and evolve new treatment strategies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Intercellular lipids contain a lamellar structure that glows in polarized images. It could be expected that the intercellular lipid content be estimated from the luminance values calculated from polarized images of stratum corneum strips. Therefore, we attempted to develop a method for simple and rapid evaluation of the intercellular lipid content through a procedure. Herein, we demonstrated a relationship between the luminance value and the amount of ceramides, one of the main components of intercellular lipids. Materials and methods: The stratum corneum was collected from the forearm using slides with a pure rubber‐based adhesive, which did not produce unnecessary luminescence under polarizing conditions. Images were analyzed using luminance indices. The positive secondary ion peak images were obtained using the time of flight‐secondary ion mass spectrometry; the polarized and brightfield images were obtained using a polarized microscope. The ceramide and protein amount was measured by high‐performance liquid chromatography and bicinchoninic acid protein assay after microscope imaging. Images and quantitative values were used to construct evaluation models based on a convolutional neural network (CNN). Results: There was a correlation between the highlighted areas of the polarized image to overlap with the area where ceramide‐derived peak was detected. Evaluation of the CNN‐based model of the polarized images predicted the amount of ceramides per unit of stratum corneum. Conclusion: The method proposed in the study enabled a large number of specimens to provide a simple, rapid, and efficient evaluation of the intercellular lipid content. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Because they limit, even reverse, age‐induced skin alterations, retinoids became a staple in cosmetology. However, their use can result in undesired secondary effects and there is a demand for natural sources of compounds with retinoid‐like effects. A preliminary screening identified a Harungana madagascariensis plant extract (HME) as possibly inducing genes stimulated by retinol. We analysed its effect on gene and protein expression, comparing it to retinoids. Methods: Gene expression was analysed by real‐time qPCR on RNA from isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or the plant extract for 6, 48 or 96 h. Skin markers were quantified in fibroblasts cultured with retinol or extract containing medium, and UV‐aged skin explants subjected to topical applications of creams containing retinol, retinaldehyde or HME. Results: Real‐time qPCR shows that the extract induced all RARs and RXRs, even RXRγ that was not induced by retinol. Eighty‐eight per cent of the 25 early retinoid reaction genes induced by a concentration of retinol are induced by the extract. In fibroblasts, only the extract increased collagen III labelling, while collagen I and fibronectin labelling are increased by retinol and the extract, with higher levels for the extract. When topically applied to UV‐aged skin explants, only the cream containing the HME led to increased labelling of CRABP1 in the epidermis. CRABP2 and Ki67 are induced by all three creams and no effect was detected on RXRs. In the dermisthe extract containing cream increased CRABP2, total collagen, procollagen I and collagen I while creams with retinol or retinaldehyde only affected some of these proteins. Conclusions: The HME induces an overall retinol‐like gene induction profile in isolated fibroblasts and retinoid‐like stimulation of protein synthesis in both isolated fibroblasts and photoaged skin explants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega‐O‐acylceramide processing enzymes of sun‐exposed and sun‐protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa. Methods: Tape strippings were taken from the sun‐exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass‐spectrometry‐based shotgun platforms. Results: No significant differences in total ceramide levels or ceramide subtypes were found between the Black African and Caucasian women in either the cheek or PA samples. Compared to the other two groups the levels of total ceramide as well as selected omega‐O‐acylceramide species were increased in Albino Africans. On the cheek, ceramide (CER) EOS, EOH along with CER AS were increased relative to the Caucasian women, while CER EOP and EOdS were elevated relative to the Black African women. Moreover, on the PA site CER EOP and EOdS were elevated compared with the Black African women and CER EOdS in Caucasians. Decreasesin masslevels of 12R‐LOX and eLOX3 were observed on cheeks compared with the PA sites in all ethnic groups. On the PA sites 12R‐LOX was particularly lower in the Albino Africans compared with the Black African and Caucasian women. On the cheeks mass levels of SDR9C7 was also lower in the Albino Africans. Conclusion: The mass levels of the ceramides were similar between Black African and Caucasian women. However, elevated total ceramides and excessively elevated selected omega‐O‐acylceramides were apparent in the Albino African women. The findings in the Albino African women were unexpected as these participants suffer from impaired skin barrier function. However, the elevated levels omega‐O‐acylceramides can contribute to barrier insufficiency by directly impacting SC lipid phase behaviour and/or secondly elevated omegaO‐acylceramide levels may indicate a reduced attachment of ceramides to the corneocyte lipid envelope and reduced corneocyte maturation that can also impair the barrier. Indeed, differences in the mass levels of omega‐O‐acylceramide processing enzymes were observed for 12R‐LOX and SDR9C7 for the Albino Africans. This indicates a corneocyte lipid scaffold disorder in this population. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives: To demonstrate the synergistic effect of 4‐hexylresorcinol (4‐HR) with niacinamide in boosting anti‐melanogenic efficacy in vitro and establish the in vivo efficacy and safety of the combination in a human trial. Methods: Primary human epidermal melanocytes and 3D pigmented skin equivalents were treated with 4‐HR, niacinamide, and their combinations for their effect on pigmentation. This was followed by a randomized, double‐blind, split‐face clinical study in Chinese subjects, and effects on skin tone, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, and skin firmness were measured for a 12‐week study period. Results: In vitro tyrosinase enzyme activity studies showed that 4‐HR is one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors. The combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide showed a synergistic reduction in melanin production in cultured melanocytes and lightened the 3D skin equivalent model. In vitro as well as in the human trial, the combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide showed significantly improved efficacy over niacinamide alone on hyperpigmentation spots as measured by L*, the visual appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in crow's feet and perioral area and skin firmness, with no product‐related adverse events. Conclusions: A formulation containing a combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide delivered superior skin tone and anti‐ageing benefits significantly better than niacinamide alone with no adverse events. This study demonstrates that a product designed to affect multiple pathways of melanogenesis, inflammation, and ageing may provide an additional treatment option, beyond hydroquinone and retinoids, for hyperpigmentation and ageing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Skin microbiomes vary across individuals. They are known to play essential roles in maintaining homeostasis and preventing infectious pathogens. In recent years, cosmetic product development has begun to focus on the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin conditions. However, the statistical methods used in many studies include the standard t‐test and small‐scale correlation analysis, which do not take into account the internal correlation structure in data on skin microbiomes and skin features. In this study, we aimed to understand the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features by analysing complex microbiomes and skin data. Methods: We obtained data on 19 skin characteristics and skin microbiomes based on 16s ribosomal RNA (16S rRNA) gene analysis of 276 healthy Japanese women. We then performed the principal component analysis (PCA), a method that takes into account the internal correlation structure, on 234 panels of them that did not contain outliers or missing values. We confirmed the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features with principal component regression analysis and hierarchical clustering analysis (HCA). Results: The principal component regression analysis showed strong relationships between skin microbiomes and sebum‐related skin characteristics and skin pH. In the HCA, the female panel was classified into two major groups based on the skin microbiome. Furthermore, there were significant differences in sebum‐related skin characteristics and the way skin condition changes with ageing between those groups, suggesting the possibility of measuring skin condition and age‐related skin risk based on microbiome data. In addition, sebum‐related characteristics differed significantly among middle‐aged participants, suggesting a strong relationship between skin microbiomes and sebum‐related characteristics. Conclusion: Analysis of skin condition and skin microbiome in Japanese women, taking into account the correlation between variables, showed that skin microbiome was significantly related to the number of pores and the amount of sebum. Furthermore, it was suggested that the skin condition and the way the skin condition changes with ageing may differ depending on the type of skin microbiome. The finding of a relationship between skin condition and skin microbiome suggests the possibility of proposing a new beauty method focusing on the skin microbiome in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Moisturizing compounds are commonly applied topically to human stratum corneum (SC). Many types of molecular species are employed, most commonly including humectants and occlusives. We find new evidence of keratin dispersion caused by the moisturizing compound ectoine (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid), and provide the first characterization of its impacts on the hydration kinetics and biomechanics of SC. A second compound, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethylguanidine succinate (HEG) was investigated for comparison. A suite of biomechanical and biochemical assays including FTIR, drying stress, and cellular cohesion were used. Studies were conducted on normal, lipid-extracted, and lipid plus natural moisturizing factor extracted SC. Ectoine was found to improve the dispersity and hydration of keratin bundles in corneocytes. It also decreased rates of stress development in lipid extracted SC when exposed to a dry environment by ∼30% while improving stress reduction during rehydration by ∼20%. Peak stresses were increased in harsh drying environments of

Introduction: We report on the in vitro and ex vivo effects of chiral (R)‐10‐hydroxystearic acid (10‐HSA) compared with other mono‐hydroxystearic acid regioisomers and stearic acid (SA) together with its benefit when combined with retinol. Methods: Following treatment with hydroxystearic acids peroxisomal proliferator‐activated receptor alpha (PPARα) activity was determined in a luciferase reporter gene assay, collagen type I was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts by immunohistochemistry, modification of the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome was studied by mass‐spectrometry‐based proteomics and collagen type III was assessed by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. Results: 10‐HSA was the most effective PPARα agonist (15.7× induction; p < 0.001), followed by 9‐HSA (10.1× induction) and then 12‐HSA (4.9× induction) with 17‐HSA (1.7× induction) being similar to the effects of stearic acid (1.8× induction). Collagen type I levels were increased in primary human fibroblasts by 2.12× and 1.56× for 10‐HSA and 9‐HSA, respectively, in vitro with the10‐HSA being significant (p < 0.05), whereas 12‐HSA and SA had no statistical effect over the untreated control. 10‐HSA and 12‐HSA modified the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome slightly with significant increases in collagen alpha‐1 (VI) and alpha‐3 (VI) proteins but only 10‐HSA increased levels of collagen alpha‐2 (V), alpha‐1 (III), alpha‐1 (I) and alpha‐2 (I) (all p < 0.05) with the increases being significantly different between 10‐HSA and 12‐HSA for collagen alpha‐1 (I), collagen‐3 (VI) and collagen alpha‐2 (I) (p < 0.01). Collagen type III in ex vivo skin was increased +47% (p < 0.05) by 0.05% (1.7 mM) retinol, +70% (p < 0.01) by 0.01% (0.33 mM) 10‐HSA and the combination increased levels by +240% (p < 0.01 for either ingredient). Conclusion: Chiral (R)‐10‐HSA has been shown to be superior to 9, 12 and 17‐HSA as a PPARα agonist. Moreover, 10‐HSA stimulated collagen synthesis in monolayer fibroblast culture as assessed by proteomics and immunohistochemically. Furthermore, we also show the synergistic effects of 10‐HSA with retinol on collagen III synthesis in skin explants. These results further highlight the efficacy of 10‐HSA as a cosmetically acceptable PPARα agonist and anti‐ageing ingredient. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Differences in skin physiology and lifestyle among people can influence the skin damage caused by solar radiation. Photoprotection habits play an important role to prevent skin photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin changes resulting from solar exposure in young men by skin imaging techniques. Methods: Twenty‐three male, aged 18–28 years, with and without photoprotection habits participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of dermis thickness and echogenicity (20 mHz ultrasound – DermaScanC®), morphological and structural skin characterization (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy – VivaScope® 1500) and high‐resolution imaging (Visioface®) were performed in the malar region of the face. Results: Pigmentation disorders, telangiectasia, wrinkles and lower dermis echogenicity were observed in the skin of subjects without photoprotection habits. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images showed an irregular honeycomb pattern (35%), polycyclic papillae (40%) and coarse collagen fibres (35%), which are related to photoaging. Conclusion: Sun exposure without photoprotection results in a loss of dermal echogenicity and changes in the epidermis structure and collagen fibres regardless of chronological age. Thus, the study adds data for a discussion about correct photoprotection habits among young people and can help to increase the use of sunscreens for male public. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Light therapy has attracted medical interests as a safe, alternative treatment for photo‐ageing and photo‐damaged skin. Recent research suggested the therapeutic activity of red and infrared (IR) lights may be effective at much lower energy levels than those used clinically. This study was to evaluate the efficacy of low‐level red plus near IR light emitting diode (LED) combination on collagen and elastin and ATP production. Methods: Human dermal fibroblasts or skin tissues were irradiated daily by red (640 nm) plus near IR (830 nm) LED lights combination at 0.5 mW/cm2 for 10 minutes (0.3 J/cm2). qPCR, ELISAs or histology were used to determine the gene and protein expressions. Fluorescent measurement was used to assess crosslinks of collagen and elastic fibres. ATP production was evaluated by ATP assay. Results: Treatment of human fibroblast cell cultures with low‐level red plus near IR lights combination was found to significantly increase LOXL1, ELN and COL1A1 and COL3A1 gene expressions as well as the synthesis of the procollagen type I and elastin proteins. Treating human skin explants with low‐level red plus near IR lights combination similarly induced significant increases in the same gene expressions, type III collagen and elastic fibre formation and crosslinks. ATP production was increased in human dermal fibroblasts after red plus near IR lights combination treatment. Conclusion: Low‐level red plus near IR lights combination stimulated the production of collagen and elastin production associated with anti‐ageing benefits. These findings suggest that low‐level red plus near IR LED light combination may provide an effective treatment opportunity for people with photo‐aged skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: The leaves of Tasmannia lanceolata mainly contain polygodial that is known to exhibit a range of biological functions including anti‐inflammatory effects. Aims: These studies aimed to assess the effects of Tasmannia lanceolata extract (TLE) on skin and more particularly on stretch marks in women. Patients/Methods: A double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled clinical study was carried out on 29 women, aged from 25 to 60 years, to investigate the effects of TLE on stabilized stretch marks. TLE and placebo products were topically applied daily for 8 weeks. Skin roughness and firmness of stretch marks were assessed by 2D and 3D photograph processing and analyses. Dermal density and thickness were evaluated using ultrasound, while stretch mark conditions (length, color, and depth) were determined by clinical scoring. Matricial proteins (pro‐collagen I and elastin) and pro‐matricial factors, like TGF‐β concentrations, were quantified from cultures of human skin explants presenting stretch marks, treated with TLE or vehicle control. Results: Skin roughness of stretch marks was significantly reduced in the TLE group after 8 weeks of treatment. Skin firmness of stretch marks was significantly increased in the TLE group after 4 weeks of treatment, and this improved effect was maintained until the end of the study. Dermal density and thickness were significantly increased in the TLE group compared to the placebo group. Furthermore, TLE restored the dermal condition of the stretch mark skin, up to normal skin levels. In addition, pro‐collagen I and elastin concentrations were found to be higher in the TLE‐treated stretch mark skin explants compared to the untreated ones, associated with higher quantities of TGF‐β production. Conclusion: These results revealed that TLE could help improve the aspect of stabilized stretch marks in women by restoring the matricial environment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant‐ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground‐breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin. Method: In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers. Results: We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue. Conclusion: In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti‐ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti‐ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide‐C ampoules). Methods: Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide‐C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide‐C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self‐assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51). Results: The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide‐C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide‐C ampoules, clinical grading of crow's‐feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide‐C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible. Conclusion: This formulation of a combination of anti‐ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]