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1. A psychophysiological comparison of on-sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers.

Author

Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Draper, N., Blackwell, G., and Hillier, S.

Subjects
*ANALYSIS of variance, *ANXIETY, *COMPARATIVE studies, *CONFIDENCE, *GOODNESS-of-fit tests, *HEART beat, *HYDROCORTISONE, *LACTATES, *PROBABILITY theory, *PSYCHOLOGICAL tests, *PSYCHOPHYSIOLOGY, *QUESTIONNAIRES, *REGRESSION analysis, *ROCK climbing, *PSYCHOLOGICAL stress, *T-test (Statistics), *LEADERS, *TREADMILLS, *REPEATED measures design, *OXYGEN consumption, *DATA analysis software
Abstract

Research suggests that lead climbing is both physiologically and psychologically more stressful than top rope climbing for intermediate performers. This observation may not be true for advanced climbers, who train regularly on lead routes and are accustomed to leader falls. The aim of this study was to compare the psychophysiological stresses of lead and top rope on-sight ascents in advanced rock climbers. Twenty-one climbers (18 men and three women) ascended routes near or at the best of their ability (22 Ewbank). Psychological stress was measured preclimb using the Revised Comparative State Anxiety Inventory ( CSAI-2R). Plasma cortisol was sampled at six intervals. The volume of oxygen ( VO2) and heart rate ( Hr) were measured throughout the climbs. No significant differences were found in self-confidence, somatic, or cognitive anxiety between the conditions lead and top rope. No significant differences in plasma cortisol concentration were found between any time points. No significant relationships were found between cortisol and any CSAI-2R measures. No significant differences were found between conditions for VO2 or blood lactate concentration. During the lead climb, Hr was significantly elevated during the last part of the route. Findings suggest that advanced rock climbers do not find lead climbing to be more stressful than top rope climbing during an on-sight ascent. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Published
2013
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2. Effect of style of ascent on the psychophysiological demands of rock climbing in elite level climbers.

Author

Dickson, Tabitha, Fryer, Simon, Blackwell, Gavin, Draper, Nick, and Stoner, Lee

Subjects
MOUNTAINEERS, ROCK climbing, AEROBIC capacity, INDOOR rock climbing, ROCK climbing techniques
Abstract

The article focuses on the physiological and psychological responses of elite level climbers for lead and top rope on-sight ascents. It examines the responses of elite level climbers by conducting a maximum oxygen uptake test, baseline session, and one randomly assigned climb at the limit of their ability on an indoor artificial climbing wall. It notes that there is no difference on the responses of elite level climbers for lead and top rope on-sight ascents.

Published
2012
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3. Perceived stress and salivary cortisol on rock climbing

Author

Dora Maria Grassi-Kassisse, Vinicius D. Wilson, Leonardo P. Madeira, Gisele Maria Schwartz, Heloisa H.A. Ferreira, Aglecio Luiz Souza, Filipy Borghi, Maria Cecília Pires-da-Rocha, Univ Fed Vales Jequitinhonha & Muruci, Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP), and Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)

Subjects
Stress (mechanics), rock climbing, medicine.medical_specialty, stress, Endocrinology, business.industry, Internal medicine, Climbing, medicine, on-sight, business, Salivary cortisol, salivary cortisol
Abstract

Made available in DSpace on 2021-06-26T06:52:42Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2019-11-01 Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq) Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) Rock climbing is a recreational activity that has been steadily growing in popularity over the years. The literature suggests that performers considered lead climbing was more stressful than other styles, but only few authors evaluated physical and mental stress was inherently associated with rock climbing. The aim of this study was to investigate the perceived stress and salivary cortisol release in rock climbers during two specific lead conditions: on-sight lead climb (OC) and flash lead climb (FC) in outdoors routes. Five intermediate male climbers (27.40 +/- 1.30 years) volunteered to attend anthropometric and body composition testing sessions. Psychological stress was measured by perceived stress questionnaire (PSQ), and salivary cortisol was collected at five times in rest (RD) and climbing days, before and after the protocols. PSQ score was 0.21 +/- 0.04 and they exhibited rhythmicity in daily cortisol production, which is most evidenced on RD with all values statistically different from upon awakening. No differences were observed when the days were compared by time point, total daily amount produced (AUC), or before and after the protocol. In conclusion, findings suggest that intermediate climbers appear to produce similar psychological or physiological responses during both climb style, but only on-sight exhibited an alteration in daily cortisol production. Univ Fed Vales Jequitinhonha & Muruci, Dept Educ Fis, Diamantina, Brazil Univ Estadual Campinas, Dept Struct & Funct Biol, LABEEST Lab Stress Study, Inst Biol,UNICAMP, Campinas, SP, Brazil Univ Fed Vales Jequitinhonha & Muruci, Pro Reitoria Assuntos Comunitarios & Estudantis, Diamantina, Brazil Univ Estadual Campinas, Fac Ciencias Med, Unidade Metab, UNICAMP, Campinas, SP, Brazil Univ Estadual Paulista, Lab Estudos Lazer, UNESP, Rio Claro, Brazil Univ Estadual Paulista, Lab Estudos Lazer, UNESP, Rio Claro, Brazil

Published
2019

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