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The cosmetic industry is now changing or rather having an ecological transition in which formulations such as creams, lotions, and powders for make‐up, skin and hair care must not contain microplastics, now a taboo word in this field. Nowadays, many companies are intensifying their research and development (R&D) work to align with recent and future legislation that provides for their elimination to safeguard the ecosystem. The production of new eco‐sustainable materials is currently a hot topic which finds its place in a market worth above 350 billion dollars which will reach more than 700 billion dollars in a very short time. This review offers an overview of the main advantages and adverse issues relating to the use of microplastics in cosmetics and of their impact, providing an insight into the properties of the polymeric materials that are currently exploited to improve the sensorial characteristics of cosmetic products. In addition, the various regulatory restrictions in the different geographical areas of the world are also described, which is matter for reflection on future direction. Finally, a prospective vision of possible solutions to replace microplastics with sustainable alternatives complete the picture of the next generation personal care products to support decision‐making in the cosmetic marketplace. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We propose a predictive model for various sensory textures utilizing machine learning techniques based on the largest rheology and panel-tested sensory texture database ever assembled. In addition to the conventional rheological parameters typically measured in the cosmetics field, rheological parameters obtained from the large amplitude oscillatory shear (LAOS) sequence of physical processes (SPPs) and extensional rheology analyses are employed as feature variables for the predictive model. These feature variables are chosen to mimic real flow conditions during the usage of cosmetics, such as rubbing and tapping, as they are expected to contain more information related to sensory textures. It has been demonstrated that our prediction model, based on the random forest regression algorithm, can effectively predict five sensory textures: spreadability, thickness, softness, adhesiveness, and stickiness. We investigated the rheological characteristics crucial for determining each sensory texture through permutation and feature importance analyses. The important analysis highlighted the close correlation between rheological parameters from LAOS–SPP, extensional analyses, and sensory textures. By using this correlation, we interpret the perception of each sensory texture in the context of rheology.

The increasing global demand for natural and organic ingredients in cosmetics has spurred a surge in research exploring innovative formulations. This study delves into the utilization of citrus fruit peels and seeds macerated in olive oil as a foundation for novel ointments. Through the analysis of extracts from a variety of citrus sources, including orange, lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, and citron peels, as well as lemon and tangerine seeds, their physicochemical properties and antioxidant activity were meticulously examined using thin-layer chromatography (TLC). A groundbreaking aspect of this research is the revelation of the in vitro antioxidant potential of DMSO extracts obtained from these citrus-infused olive oils. Chemical assays unequivocally confirmed the presence of phenols and flavonoids, renowned for their robust antioxidant properties, across all extracts. These significant findings not only reinforce the well-documented benefits of citrus fruits in combating premature aging and diseases but also underscore the untapped potential of citrus by-products as valuable natural cosmetic ingredients. This preliminary investigation serves as a beacon illuminating the promising prospects of integrating citrus fruit remnants into cosmetic formulations. The imperative for further exploration in this realm is evident, aiming to refine formulations and advocate for the sustainable exploitation of citrus resources within the cosmetics sector. By embarking on deeper research endeavors, an inclusive comprehension of leveraging the inherent potency of citrus fruits for the creation of cutting-edge and efficacious natural cosmetic products can be achieved. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Prototype cosmetic formulations containing short-chain acids and alcohols intended to be applied in the proximity of the eyes are sometimes evaluated for ocular irritation potential using the validated Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability Assay (OECD TG 437). We evaluated the eye irritation potential of nine experimental cosmetic formulations designed and prepared by Avon Global Reserach and Development to differ only in the concentrations of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid. Methods: We analysed the data generated using the BCOP assay. The opacity and permeability values obtained following the exposure of bovine corneas to experimental cosmetic formulations were combined into a single In Vitro Irritancy Score used to rank eye irritation potential. Histopathological examination of treated corneas was used to provide additional information about the depth and degree of the injury and to support the prediction of eye irritation potential of each experimental cosmetic formulation. Results: The In Vitro Irritancy Scores and histopathological analysis showed that experimental formulations containing only Ethanol, Glycolic Acid, or Salicylic Acid alone had, at most, a mild ocular irritation potential. The experimental formulations containing both Ethanol and Glycolic Acid had a mild ocular irritation potential, while the experimental formulations containing both Ethanol and Salicylic Acid had a moderate ocular irritation potential. Severe ocular irritation potential was induced by an experimental formulation containing a combination of Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid and it was further accentuated by the addition of Ethanol to the formulation. Our data indicate a possible synergistic effect on eye irritation potential of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid in at least some experimental cosmetic formulations. Further, our results provide insight on an apparent concentration-dependent ocular irritation potential effect of combinations of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Ethanol in at least one experimental cosmetic formulation. Conclusions: The results presented herein emphasise the need to consider in vitro testing of prototype cosmetic formulations containing combinations of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid rather than relying on any predicted additive effect on ocular irritation based solely on previously generated results of similar formulations containing Ethanol, Glycolic Acid or Salicylic Acid alone. Further work is required to understand the significance of these observations and to elucidate the mechanisms responsible for the apparent synergistic effects of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Ethanol and eye irritation potential suggested by our results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Probiotic bacteria confer health benefits to their host, support the intestinal microbiome and fight antibiotic resistance. Probiotic products are used in the food and pharmaceutical industries and, in recent years, have become increasingly popular in the cosmetic industry. However, in the case of cosmetics, it is difficult to meet microbiological requirements while maintaining viable cells. The aim of this research study was to develop an effective way of introducing live bacteria (a strain of L. casei) into cosmetic formulations. A method of encapsulation of the bacteria was used to increase their viability. As part of the results, the effective carriers for the strain of L. casei are reported. Alginate microspheres were prepared for the systems to protect the microorganisms against external factors, such as temperature, UV light and preservatives. The obtained probiotic-loaded alginate microspheres were then used as the active ingredient of cosmetic formulations. Additionally, a preservative system was carefully selected to ensure the microorganisms' viability and the microbiological stability of the products. The obtained results showed a significant improvement in the survival of the microencapsulated probiotic strain in the cosmetic formulations containing antimicrobial agents (6.13 log CFU/g after 120 days of storage) compared with the formulation containing the non-immobilised probiotic strain, where complete elimination of bacterial cells was observed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The reducing property of collagen was employed for the synthesis of gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) without the use of any toxic chemicals. The morphology of the resulting AuNPs-collagen particles appeared in spherical and triangular nanoprisms with sizes ranging from 30-60 nm, as observed in TEM results. Increasing the synthesis temperature led to the growth of AuNPs. Surface-enhanced Raman Spectroscopy studies revealed that amide I and carboxylic acid group vibrations indicated collagen binding to the Au surface through these groups. The AuNPscollagen nanocomposite was tested for its antimicrobial properties against eight different microorganisms and it exhibited antibacterial properties solely against the Gordonia rubripertincta bacterium. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Wine lees are sediments deposited on the walls and bottom of barrels resulting from wine fermentation and mainly consist of yeasts. Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts, rich in beneficial components for the skin, have already been used in cosmesis, while wine lees have not been well exploited by the cosmetics industry yet. The aim of this work was the full characterization of the wine lees from Verdicchio's wine, with the aim to exploit it as a beneficial ingredient in new cosmetic products. After mapping the microbial composition of the sample waste, the parameters for the sonication extraction process were optimized and the physicochemical properties of the extract were analyzed. The efficiency of the aqueous extraction—and in particular the yeast cell lysis necessary for the release of proteins from the cell—was assessed by evaluating cell shape and size, and protein release, under scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Bradford's protein assays. Thus, the total phenol content and antioxidant capacity of the supernatant recovered from native and sonicated lees were determined by Folin–Ciocalteu's and spectrophotometric assays, respectively. To quantify the heavy metals and highlight the presence of microelements beneficial for the skin, inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) was applied. In vitro metabolic activity and cytotoxicity were tested on both HaCat keratinocytes and human gingival fibroblasts, showing that wine lees are safe for skin's cells. The results show that sonicated lees appear to be more interesting than native ones as a consequence of the release of the active ingredients from the cells. Due to the high antioxidant capacity, content of beneficial elements for skin and an appropriate microbiologic profile, wine lees were included in five new solid cosmetic products and tested for challenge test, compatibility with human skin, sensory analysis, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and sebometry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The world of cosmetics is an always-evolving field with constant updates on its formulation components. The current reality asks for an ever-increasing need for natural and sustainable replacements for synthetic compounds in all fields of modern consumer products. However, the research and development stages of finding these alternatives can be an expensive, time-consuming, and often wasteful process that turns this task into a laborious procedure. This study introduces the development of a computational methodology that will aid the research of silicone alternatives, disclosing their structural performance in a formulation. Additionally, an equilibration protocol was developed to measure the distribution and densities of these silicone alternatives to determine how they behave in relation to their counterparts, using molecular dynamics simulations. Two systems were tested, A and B, where the former is composed of one ester (Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5 Acid Ester) and the latter by an ester combined with an alkane (Triheptanoin and C13-Isoalkane); all three molecules are commercially available and widely used. Both systems were subjected to a 3-step thermal regulation strategy. The systems went through an initial simulation at 25 °C and at 70 °C, then a temperature switch took place (25 °C « 70 °C), then a shock to 200 °C, and finally a Simulated Annealing protocol reaching 250 °C. In the end, all systems converged towards micelle-like structures. These results come to further ascertain the position of computational chemistry and Molecular Dynamics Simulations as an important part of R&D processes in modern sciences and investigation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Thermal waters have been showing different beneficial effects on the skin due to their physicochemical composition. The beneficial effect of thermal water in the treatment of some skin diseases may thus justify its use as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The main objective of this work was to demonstrate the potential of incorporating thermal water as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. (2) Methods: A descriptive literature review was carried out by the analysis of scientific articles in PubMed and Google Scholar databases. Twelve thermal spring waters were found (Avène, Blue Lagoon, Comano, Cró, Dead Sea, La Roche-Posay, Monfortinho, Saint-Gervais, Salies-de-Béarn, São Pedro do Sul, Uriage and Vichy) with potential as an active in cosmetic products, demonstrated through in vitro studies evaluating the different activities/properties and clinical trials in healthy volunteers or with skin pathologies. (3) Results: For these studies, in natura thermal water as well as incorporated in cosmetic formulations were used. In in vitro studies, most thermal waters have been shown to have activities on membrane fluidity, skin barrier repair, antiradical, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties, proliferative activity, regulation of processes involved in ageing and moisturizing properties. In clinical trials, cosmetic thermal waters reduced skin discomfort through their soothing and exhibited moisturizing and anti-irritant properties. (4) Conclusions: The effect of thermal waters on the skin and the absence of side effects reported in different studies allows them to be used as an adjuvant or in the treatment of various skin disorders and may play an important role in the cosmetics industry. However, further clinical trials are needed to assess their effectiveness and safety. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The demand for products based on natural ingredients is increasing among cosmetic and textile consumers. Cork extracts contain components of interest with special properties, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial activities, that might improve the effectiveness of cosmetic formulations currently on the market and may impart new characteristics to textiles. The main goal of this work was to investigate the effect of the incorporation of three cork extracts into two commercial cosmetic formulations (formulation A and B) and evaluate their role as textile dyeing agents. The extracts (E1, E2, and E3) were obtained from cork powder using natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) (E1-NADES 1: lactic acid:glycerol, E2-NADES 2: lactic acid:glycine, and E3-NADES 3: lactic acid:sodium citrate) and applied in combination with the solvent. The impact of the extracts on the cosmetic formulations' properties was evaluated in terms of pH, viscosity, antioxidant activity, transdermal permeation capacity, cytotoxicity, and organoleptic characteristics (odor, color, and appearance). The results demonstrated that the cork extracts improved the antioxidant performance of the formulations (90% reduction in DPPH (1,1-difenil-2-picril-hidrazil)). Moreover, low concentrations (5 mg/mL and 10 mg/mL) of extract did not present a cytotoxic effect on keratinocytes. Cotton fabrics were efficiently dyed with the NADES-based cork extracts which conferred to these substrates antioxidant (78% in DPPH reduction) and antibacterial abilities (inhibition halos: 12–15 mm). The application of cork extracts as ingredients in cosmetics or as dyeing/coloration agents for textile coloration is revealed to be a promising and green route to replace harmful ingredients normally used in industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Acne is a common chronic skin condition with serious physical and psychosocial consequences. In some cases, the appearance of pimples, whiteheads, or blackheads on the face, neck, and back may lead to scarring, disfiguring, depression, frustration, and anxiety in patients. Current treatments rely on antibiotics to eradicate Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), the bacterium responsible for this skin condition. However, these approaches do not scavenge the reactive oxidative species (ROS) generated during disease development and raise concerns about the increase in antimicrobial resistance. In this study, an environmentally friendly and cost-effective self-assembly nanoencapsulation technology based on zein, a bio-based hydrophobic protein, was employed to produce multifunctional essential oil (EO)-loaded nanocapsules (NCs) with superior antioxidant and bactericidal activity toward C. acnes. The NCs displayed "smart" release of the active cargo only under the conditions that were conducive to acne proliferation on skin. Once incorporated into creams, the EO-loaded NCs led to a complete inhibition of C. acnes and demonstrated the capacity to scavenge ROS, thus preventing damage to human skin cells. The in vitro permeation studies revealed that the nanoformulated EO was able to penetrate through the epidermis, indicating its potential for the treatment of skin diseases, such as acne. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Probiotic bacteria confer health benefits to their host, support the intestinal microbiome and fight antibiotic resistance. Probiotic products are used in the food and pharmaceutical industries and, in recent years, have become increasingly popular in the cosmetic industry. However, in the case of cosmetics, it is difficult to meet microbiological requirements while maintaining viable cells. The aim of this research study was to develop an effective way of introducing live bacteria (a strain of L. casei) into cosmetic formulations. A method of encapsulation of the bacteria was used to increase their viability. As part of the results, the effective carriers for the strain of L. casei are reported. Alginate microspheres were prepared for the systems to protect the microorganisms against external factors, such as temperature, UV light and preservatives. The obtained probiotic-loaded alginate microspheres were then used as the active ingredient of cosmetic formulations. Additionally, a preservative system was carefully selected to ensure the microorganisms’ viability and the microbiological stability of the products. The obtained results showed a significant improvement in the survival of the microencapsulated probiotic strain in the cosmetic formulations containing antimicrobial agents (6.13 log CFU/g after 120 days of storage) compared with the formulation containing the non-immobilised probiotic strain, where complete elimination of bacterial cells was observed.

Morus nigra L. is a species popularly known in the Northeast of Brazil as "amora miúra". This species is a source of flavonoids with antioxidant activity. Antioxidants play an important role in the preservation of cosmetic formulations, and they neutralize free radicals. The objective of this study was to develop a topical emulsion containing leaf extract of Morus nigra L., as well as to evaluate the stability, antioxidant and antibacterial activities of the formulations. A crude hydroalcoholic (70%) extract of M. nigra leaves (MnCE) was submitted to high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD) analysis and incorporated into an anionic base emulsion. Antioxidant activity was evaluated according to the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method, and the stability of the formulation was assessed for 90 days, submitting the emulsion to storage at 4, 20, and 37 °C. Microdilution techniques evaluated the antibacterial activity and a challenge test assessed the microbiological stability. Analysis by HPLC–DAD identified the flavonoids rutin and isoquercetin in the M. nigra extract. The emulsion and plant extract presented antioxidant activity, and the stability of the emulsion was preserved in terms of pH value and viscosity—which did not show significant changes, except for the spreadability, which was affected by the temperature. The antioxidant activity did not change significantly, except for the sample under 4 °C, which showed a considerable decrease in activity. The crude hydroalcoholic extract and formulation showed antimicrobial activity and the emulsion was considered stable in terms of organoleptic, physicochemical, and microbiological properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Acne is a common chronic skin condition with serious physical and psychosocial consequences. In some cases, the appearance of pimples, whiteheads, or blackheads on the face, neck, and back may lead to scarring, disfiguring, depression, frustration, and anxiety in patients. Current treatments rely on antibiotics to eradicate Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), the bacterium responsible for this skin condition. However, these approaches do not scavenge the reactive oxidative species (ROS) generated during disease development and raise concerns about the increase in antimicrobial resistance. In this study, an environmentally friendly and cost-effective self-assembly nanoencapsulation technology based on zein, a bio-based hydrophobic protein, was employed to produce multifunctional essential oil (EO)-loaded nanocapsules (NCs) with superior antioxidant and bactericidal activity toward C. acnes. The NCs displayed “smart” release of the active cargo only under the conditions that were conducive to acne proliferation on skin. Once incorporated into creams, the EO-loaded NCs led to a complete inhibition of C. acnes and demonstrated the capacity to scavenge ROS, thus preventing damage to human skin cells. The in vitro permeation studies revealed that the nanoformulated EO was able to penetrate through the epidermis, indicating its potential for the treatment of skin diseases, such as acne.

Background: Thermal waters have been showing different beneficial effects on the skin due to their physicochemical composition. The beneficial effect of thermal water in the treatment of some skin diseases may thus justify its use as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The main objective of this work was to demonstrate the potential of incorporating thermal water as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. (2) Methods: A descriptive literature review was carried out by the analysis of scientific articles in PubMed and Google Scholar databases. Twelve thermal spring waters were found (Avène, Blue Lagoon, Comano, Cró, Dead Sea, La Roche-Posay, Monfortinho, Saint-Gervais, Salies-de-Béarn, São Pedro do Sul, Uriage and Vichy) with potential as an active in cosmetic products, demonstrated through in vitro studies evaluating the different activities/properties and clinical trials in healthy volunteers or with skin pathologies. (3) Results: For these studies, in natura thermal water as well as incorporated in cosmetic formulations were used. In in vitro studies, most thermal waters have been shown to have activities on membrane fluidity, skin barrier repair, antiradical, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties, proliferative activity, regulation of processes involved in ageing and moisturizing properties. In clinical trials, cosmetic thermal waters reduced skin discomfort through their soothing and exhibited moisturizing and anti-irritant properties. (4) Conclusions: The effect of thermal waters on the skin and the absence of side effects reported in different studies allows them to be used as an adjuvant or in the treatment of various skin disorders and may play an important role in the cosmetics industry. However, further clinical trials are needed to assess their effectiveness and safety.

Chitosan (CS) has a natural origin and is a biodegradable and biocompatible polymer with many skin-beneficial properties successfully used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry. CS derivatives, especially those synthesized via a Schiff base reaction, are very important due to their unique antimicrobial activity. This study demonstrates research results on the use of hydrogel microspheres made of [chitosan- graft -poly(ε-caprolactone)]- blend -(ĸ-carrageenan)], [chitosan-2-pyridinecarboxaldehyde- graft -poly(ε-caprolactone)]- blend -(ĸ-carrageenan), and chitosan-sodium-4-formylbenzene-1,3-disulfonate- graft -poly(ε-caprolactone)]- blend -(ĸ-carrageenan) as innovative vitamin carriers for cosmetic formulation. A permeation study of retinol (vitamin A), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and α-tocopherol (vitamin E) from the cream through a human skin model by the Franz Cell measurement system was presented. The quantitative analysis of the release of the vitamins added to the cream base, through the membrane, imitating human skin, showed a promising profile of its release/penetration, which is promising for the development of a cream with anti-aging properties. Additionally, the antibacterial activity of the polymers from which the microspheres are made allows for the elimination of preservatives and parabens as cosmetic formulation ingredients., Competing Interests: The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

Background: Oily skin and hair not only contain a large amount of sebum, but also exhibit other changes that compromise their physiology. The immediate effects of dermocosmetics are very important for adhesion to treatment. Aim: The aim of the present study was to characterize oily skin and scalp, to evaluate the correlation of sebum production with porphyrin counts and the immediate effects of topical formulations for sebum control. Patients/Methods: A total of 100 women aged 18‐49 years were recruited. Sebaceous gland activity, sebum amount, stratum corneum water content (SCWC) transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin gloss, amount of porphyrins and pores were determined in the face and SCWC, sebum amount, porphyrin count, and TEWL were also determined in the scalp. The immediate effects of formulations containing a guarana extract were determined after 2 hours of application. Results: A correlation between sebaceous gland activity and presence of porphyrins in the frontal region of the face was detected. Low gloss values and large amounts of pores in the malar region were related to lower skin uniformity. High sebum values and low SCWC and porphyrin count were also observed in the vertex region. The studied formulations reduced the sebum content of face and scalp after 2 hours of application. Conclusion: Oily skin and hair showed high sebum values, which were correlated with porphyrin count and with the activity of sebaceous glands. Finally, the studied formulations had immediate reducing effects on sebum amounts on the skin and scalp. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cosmetic industry remains a major focus of economic development in the 21st century, while consumer's demand for sustainability drives the search for new active natural ingredients and the development of green extractions techniques. The aim of this work is to obtain antioxidant-enriched extracts from two seaweeds found on the Portuguese shore, Sargassum muticum and Gelidium corneum using natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) to be used in cosmetic formulations. Extracts were obtained by maceration of powdered seaweeds with aqueous solutions (25 % (v/v) in water) of different NADES, L-lactic acid: fructose (5:1), L-lactic acid: glucose (5:1) and L-lactic acid: sodium acetate (7:1). The resulting extracts were evaluated regarding their total phenolic content (TPC) using the Folin-Ciocalteu method and antioxidant capacity by the DPPH and FRAP assays. L-lactic acid: fructose (5:1) NADES yielded Sargassum muticum extracts with the highest phenolic content (2099 mg GAE/L) and the highest antioxidant activities (DPPH reduction of 27 %, FRAP 30 μM FeSO 4). Antimicrobial activity of the extracts over three microorganisms of the skin microbiota, the bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis and Cutibacterium acnes and the fungus Malassezia furfur, revealed no relevant antimicrobial effect, meaning that extracts did not affect the skin microbiota homeostasis. The extract with the highest cosmeceutical interest, S. muticum extract prepared using L-lactic acid: fructose (7:1), was incorporated into a topical O/W emulsion. Physical and rheology data of the cosmetic formulation ensure its quality and safety. Finally, compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy were evaluated in vivo, in human volunteers. The results show that NADES are a promising replacement of conventional solvents in the extraction of antioxidants from biomass and their use in topical formulations is safe. • Seaweeds as a source of phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity. • Natural deep eutectic solvents as extraction solvents have shown higher yields and higher antioxidant activity comparing with conventional extraction solvents. • Direct use of the most bioactive extract in topical oil-in-water cosmetic formulation. • Seaweeds extract in DES yielded stable cosmetic formulation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

External factors such as prolonged exposure to solar radiation and environmental pollution accelerate the aging process of the skin, and this process is a challenge for pharmacological science. To counteract the effects of skin photoaging, the cosmetic industry has introduced natural topical products that have proved to be effective in reducing signs of age. In this sense, a statistical analysis was conducted on the changes in the properties of firmness and elasticity of the skin caused by cosmetic formulas (lotion and cream) elaborated with essential oils of Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico) and Ocotea quixos (ishpingo) in which the concentration of the oils in two cosmetic products (lotion and cream) varied to be tested in vivo, through the measurement of elasticity and firmness in three times T1 (0 day), T2 (28 days) and T3 (56 days), and in two age groups according to the Glogau scale (30 to 40 and 41 to 50 years). The results showed positive changes in the values of elasticity and firmness of the skin in the presentation of the lotion whose concentration was 20% Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico) and 80% Ocotea quixos (ishpingo), with a minimum application time of 28 days.

The development of nanocosmetics nanotechnology has ushered in a new age in cosmetic research, completely changing the skincare scene. This abstract investigates the relationship between skincare and nanotechnology, particularly emphasizing the effects of nanocosmetics on skin health. Cosmetics, known as "nanocosmetics," use materials at the nanoscale, typically between 1 and 100 nanometers, to improve the effectiveness and delivery of active chemicals. Nanotechnology in cosmetics allows for the development of sophisticated delivery methods that provide enhanced stability and tailored distribution, including nanoemulsions and nanocapsules. This breakthrough overcomes the constraints of conventional formulations by enabling the entry of active ingredients into the skin's deeper layers. Studies investigating nanocosmetics and skin health were included. This encompassed in vitro studies, animal models, and clinical studies of various designs. Exclusion criteria included studies focusing solely on nanotechnology unrelated to skin health or nanocosmetics and review articles editorials, commentaries, and conference abstracts. Nanocosmetics is a groundbreaking development in skincare that provides creative answers to a range of skin issues. As the area develops, realizing the full potential of nanotechnology in fostering ideal skin health will need sustained research and adherence to safety regulations., Competing Interests: The authors have declared that no competing interests exist., (Copyright © 2024, Pandey et al.)

Abstract: The chemical stability, degradation and penetration ability of pharmaceutically active ingredients in topical formulations are the greatest challenges because of problems with the protection of actives for long times and with delivery. Therefore, the development of unique and efficient substrate material is vital for their protection and controlled drug release. Layered double hydroxides (LDHs) known as hydrotalcite like compounds possess positive charges due to isomorphic substitutions, which are counterbalanced by hydrated exchangeable anions located in the interlayer region. Some of the active ingredient molecules can be intercalated into the inner region of the LDHs through ionic bonding, hydrogen bonding or van der Waals interaction to form nanohybrids, which are more potent for their protection and controlled‐release. This account focuses on our recent research efforts and key scientific and technical challenges in the development of LDH based nanohybrids for commercial use in advanced controlled release carriers of active ingredients in topical formulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of this study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation. Methods Four cosmetic formulations, vehicle (V), vehicle containing UV filters (F), vehicle containing cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa (A) oligosaccharides and vehicle containing UV filters plus cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa oligosaccharides (multifunctional formulation, M) were developed. The texture profile of the formulations was analysed with a TA. XT plus Texturometer®. Twenty female volunteers aged 39-45 years were then selected for the assessment of immediate clinical efficacy of the formulations under study and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content and microrelief of the skin obtained with their use. Results The presence of UV filters resulted in an improvement of the physical properties of the multifunctional cosmetic formulation (M) and of skin microrelief. However, the presence of UV filters also caused a significant decrease in hydration. Conclusion The presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and TEWL. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered because it can have either positive or negative effect on the efficacy of the product. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A new trend in cosmetic formulations is the use of biotechnological raw materials as the polysaccharides from Klebsiella pneumoniae, which are supposed to enhance cell renewal, improve skin hydration and micro-relief. Botanical extracts of Myrtus communis leaves contain different sugars, which may provide the same benefits. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate through objective and subjective analysis the immediate and long-term effects of cosmetic formulations containing polysaccharides biotechnologically-originated and / or the ones contained in Myrtus communis extracts. Three polysaccharide-based and placebo formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 40 volunteers. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), viscoelasticity and skin micro-relief measurements were made before and 2 hours after a single application and after 15 and 30 day-periods of daily applications. Answers to a questionnaire about perceptions of formulation cosmetic features constituted the subjective analysis. All polysaccharide-based formulations enhanced skin hydration. Formulations with isolated or combined active substances improved skin barrier function as compared to placebo, in the short and long term studies. Formulations containing Myrtus communis extracts had the highest acceptance. Results suggest that daily use of formulations containing these substances is important for protection of the skin barrier function.Uma nova tendência em formulações cosméticas é a utilização de matérias-primas biotecnológicas como os polissacarídeos de Klebsiella pneumoniae, que pode aumentar a renovação celular e melhor a hidratação e micro-relevo da pele. Por outro lado, o extrato vegetal de Myrtus communis contém diferentes polissacarídeos, que também podem proporcionar benefícios à pele. Assim, o objetivo do estudo foi a avaliação dos efeitos imediatos e em longo prazo, de formulações cosméticas contendo polissacarídeos obtidos por processo biotecnológico e/ou de extrato de M. communis por meio de análises objetivas e subjetivas. Três formulações contendo os polissacarídeos e um placebo foram aplicadas na pele dos antebraços de 40 voluntários. As medidas foram realizadas antes e após 2 horas da aplicação das formulações e após 15 e 30 dias de aplicações diárias em termos de hidratação da pele, perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL), viscoelasticidade e micro-relevo da pele. Para a análise subjetiva, os voluntários responderam um questionário a fim de obter-se informações sobre a percepção relativa à qualidade de cosméticos. Todas as formulações provocaram aumento da hidratação cutânea. As formulações que continham os polissacarídeos melhoraram a função barreira da pele, em curto e em longo prazo. A formulação contendo extrato de M. communis apresentou maior aceitação. Os resultados sugerem que o uso diário dos polissacarídeos avaliados é importante na proteção da função barreira da pele.

Peel off facial masks, based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), are formulations that, after application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face. After removing, they provide cleanness, tensor and moisturizing effects, removing dead cells, residues and other materials deposited on the stratum corneous. The soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and free isoflavonoids in high concentrations, when compared to the unfermented extract, providing benefits to the cosmetic formulations like anti-aging effect, moisture, tensor action and emollience. The cosmetic bases of peel off facial masks, added with 5.0% w/w of fermented soybean extract, were submitted to Preliminary and Accelerated Stability Studies. Eight (8) preparations were evaluated in several conditions of temperature (-10.0, 5.0, 22.0 and 45.0 ºC) and time (maximum of 15 days), comparing the results with the initial condition (48 h after preparation). The variables observed were: organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value and film drying time. The preparation containing 17.0% w/w of PVA and 0.5% w/w of guar gum was selected between the eight preparations initially prepared, because it presented the best performance in the stability test, being recommended storage at low temperatures (5.0 ºC).As máscaras faciais peel off a base de álcool polivinílico (PVA) são formulações que, após a aplicação e secagem, formam um filme oclusivo sobre a face e, após sua remoção, conferem limpeza, ação tensora e hidratação à pele, retirando células mortas do estrato córneo, resíduos e outros materiais depositados. O extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis possui açúcares, aminoácidos, peptídeos, e alto teor de isoflavonas na forma livre, quando comparado ao leite não fermentado, propiciando benefícios às formulações cosméticas, como ação antienvelhecimento, hidratação, efeito tensor e emoliência. As bases cosméticas de máscaras faciais peel off, acrescidas de extrato de soja fermentado 5,0% p/p, foram submetidas aos ensaios de Estabilidade Preliminar e Acelerada, avaliando-se 8 preparações em diversas condições de temperatura (-10,0; 5,0; 22,0 e 45,0 ºC) e tempo (máximo de 15 dias), em relação à condição inicial (48 h após o preparo). As variáveis observadas envolveram: características organolépticas, valor de pH, viscosidade aparente e tempo de secagem do filme. A preparação contendo 17,0% p/p de PVA e 0,5% p/p de goma guar foi a selecionada dentre as oito preparações elaboradas inicialmente, por ter apresentado melhor desempenho no teste de estabilidade, sendo recomendado o armazenamento em temperatura reduzida (5,0 ºC).

N -Acetylglucosamine is an ingredient in pharmaceuticals, nutritional supplements and in cosmetics. N -Acetylglucosamine in cosmetics is expected to improve skin hydration, reparation, and to contribute as anti-wrinkle agent. This study reports on the validation and application of an HPLC method based on HILIC and UV detection for determining N -acetylglucosamine in cosmetics and in samples obtained after testing the skin exposed to cosmetics formulations. The chromatographic column used is a ZIC ® - p HILIC (150 mm × 4.6 mm, 5 μm particle size) on which a mobile phase containing acetonitrile–aqueous KH 2 PO 4 (70:30, v/v) 15 mM was applied in isocratic elution mode injecting 20 μl of sample at 0.5 ml/min constant flow-rate and 10 ± 1 °C column temperature. Under these conditions the total run time was 10 min and N -acetylglucosamine eluted baseline separated from all other compounds in the samples. Calibration in the range from 40 to 80 μg/ml allowed to assess the method linearity ( R 2 > 0.999) in a concentration range corresponding to about 50% to 120% of the expected levels of N -acetylglucosamine in the formulations. Precision expressed by RSD% was always better than 2% in intra-day and inter-day assays of authentic samples. Accuracy was in all cases within 95–105% of the expected concentration value in formulations containing N -acetylglucosamine. The sensitivity of the method was at the level of 10 μg/ml as limit of detection, and at 40 μg/ml as limit of quantitation. The application of the method to formulations containing solid lipid nanoparticles documents its usefulness in cosmetic quality control. The results witness that the method is also suitable for the determination of N -acetylglucosamine in samples obtained from skin test strips. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The study was undertaken to verify the antimicrobial activity of Lavandula angustifolia hydrosols in moisturizing body gels. The inhibition efficacy of four lavender hydrosols (obtained from fresh or dry herbs or flowers) was tested against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Escherichia coli ATCC 1627, Candida sp. ŁOCK 0008 and Aspergillus niger ATCC 16404 in compliance with the standards of the European Pharmacopoeia Commission. Although the tested hydrosols did not express any remarkable antimicrobial action when tested via the macrodilution method, they show preservative activity in cosmetic preparations. Criterion A for fungi was fulfilled for the cosmetic formulation containing dried flower hydrosol (reduction of the inoculum by two logarithmic units within 14 days with no increase up to the 28th day) and Criterion B for bacteria E. coli and Staph. aureus (reduction of the inoculum by three logarithmic units within 14 days with no increase up to the 28th day). The fresh herb lavender hydrosol in the cosmetic formulation was regarded as the second one effectively satisfying Criterion B for bacteria, but its activity against fungi was below the acceptance value set out in the official regulations. Lavender hydrosols used as a replacement for water phase in cosmetics may contribute to maintaining microbiological stability of cosmetic formulations. Significance and Impact of the Study The presented research proved antimicrobial activity of hydrosols obtained from fresh or dried Lavandula angustifolia herbs or flowers in moisturizing body gel. The study shows the usefulness of lavender hydrosols as a natural, ecologically friendly component of cosmetics with potential preservative activity in formulations. Hydrosols are commonly regarded as waste in the production of essential oils. The use of lavender hydrosols in the cosmetic industry as a replacement for water phase in cosmetics may not only result in expenses reduction for chemical stabilizers and preservatives but also in substantial decrease in sewage disposal. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of this study is to elaborate a survey on the efficiency of three anti-aging cosmetic formulations by applying Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) with Attenuated Total Reflection (ATR) in order to characterize and identify the specific recognition markers of the active ingredients. FTIR (ATR) spectrometry in specific regions was applied also to the ingredients used in these products, depending on their role in the specific cream. Comparing the different composition of the creams, depending on the ratio of lipophylic to hydrophylic ingredients, of emollient-emulsifier type ingredients, antioxidant and active ingredients, it has been noticed identification of differences between the natural (α-tocopherol acetate) and the synthetic antioxidant (BHA) by characteristic markers. The antioxidant potential of α-tocopherol acetate and of BHA, usually used in cosmetic formulations or added in a controlled way, at known levels of concentration in a standard cream, were evaluated by the DPPH method. Their antioxidant effect could not be demonstrated in our experiments with controlled concentrations (below 1% and even higher), added to complex mixtures with lipids. Higher sensibility methods, like electronic spin resonance (ESR) could probably deliver additional information about the antioxidant potential of some complex mixtures, like anti-aging creams. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Green tea ( GT) extracts contain polyphenols, known to be effective free radical scavengers, and other ingredients that could also provide benefits to the skin. This is a report on clinical studies using objective, noninvasive methods to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing GT. Experimental formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 6% Camellia sinensis glycolic leaf extracts ( GT). These formulations were applied to the forearm skin of 24 volunteers, and their effects were evaluated before and after 2 hours, 15 and 30 days according to the following parameters: stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, skin viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio ( Uv/ Ue), and microrelief. The volunteers were instructed not to apply any formulation in an area of the forearm (control area). Experimental formulations ( GT) increased skin moisture in the long-term study, indicating that GT has a prolonged moisturizing effect. The Uv/ Ue was significantly enhanced after 30 days of topical application of the experimental formulation when compared with vehicle and control. After 15-30 days, skin microrelief was significantly improved due to a reduction in skin roughness. The results suggest that GT-containing cosmetic formulations have pronounced moisturizing effects and improve skin microrelief. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: To evaluate the irritant effect of cosmetic formulations elaborated with camu camu extracts. Material and Methods: This study was performed with cosmetic formulations containing camu camu extracts supplied by the AYRU COSMETIC Laboratory. We used the alternative in vitro technic on chorioallantoic membrane in fertile hen's eggs (HET CAM, hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test). The technique was implemented at "Centro de Investigación de Medicina Tradicional y Farmacología" of the Research Institute of the school of Medicine of San Martin de Porres University. Results: None of the cosmetic with Camu Camu extracts showed chorioallantoic membrane rupture, which was verified by the absence of absorbed trypan blue dye, detectable at 595 nm. Conclusions: The rates of irritation (II) obtained in all cosmetic formulations allow us to classify them as NOT IRRITATING and support the safety of such products to continue clinical efficacy trials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The lipid fraction of cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) seeds was extracted and analyzed for chemical and physical properties, i.e., fatty acid composition (GC–MS), acidity (as % of oleic acid), iodine value, triacylglycerol (TAG) composition (HPLC), saponification value, specific extinctions (K232 and K270), thermal profile (DSC), and tocopherol composition (HPLC). The oil''s fatty acid composition revealed the major fatty acids to be α-linolenic, linoleic, oleic, and palmitic acid (35.11, 25.08, 15.07, and 11.11%, respectively). γ-Tocopherol was the major tocopherol (80%) with the remainder being α- and δ-tocopherol. The polyunsaturated TAGs LLLn, LLnLn, LLL, and LnLnLn (L, linoleic and Ln, linolenic) were the oil''s major TAG components. The oil exhibited two thermal profile peaks, indicating two thermal structural transitions, one at low temperature (−28.34°C) with a 54.66J/g enthalpy and the other at high temperature (−13.41°C) with a 22.49J/g enthalpy. The oil showed high absorbance in the UV-B and UV-C ranges. The many positive characteristics observed here in this oil, as well as the favorable botanical properties of the tree, suggest that this oil could have important applications in non-food industries. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Synopsis In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett–Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be studied; second, a complete factorial design has been implemented. With the experimental data collected from the DOE, a Least Mean Square (LMS) algorithm and Artificial Neural Networks (ANN) have been utilized to obtain an equation (or model) that could explain cream viscosity. Calculations have shown that ANN are the best prediction method to fit a model to experimental data, within the interval of concentrations defined by the whole set of experiments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aims: The aim of the study was to verify the antimicrobial activity of commercial essential oils: lavender, tea tree and lemon as the components of a preservative system in oil in water body milks. Methods and Results: The inhibition efficacy of essential oils alone (0·5%), in mixtures (1%) as well as combined with the synthetic preservative 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin and a 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate mixture (0·1% and 0·2%) was tested against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, Candida sp. ŁOCK 0008 and Aspergillus niger ATCC 16404 in compliance with the standards of the European Pharmacopoeia Commission. The in vitro activity of oils determined by an impedimetric method was also compared with their activity in cosmetic preparations. Criterion A for bacteria (reduction in the inoculum by 3 logarithmic units within 7 days with no increase up to the 28th day) and fungi (reduction in the inoculum by 2 logarithmic units within 14 days with no increase up to the 28th day) was fulfilled for cosmetic formulations containing the tested essential oils with 0·2% of the synthetic preservative. The preservative concentration could be decreased to 0·1% (with preserving the same efficacy) in combination with lavender and tea tree oils at a concentration of 0·5% each. Conclusions: In all combinations of essential oils with the synthetic preservative, a synergistic effect of the preservative system components was observed, which made it possible to reduce the usable level of the synthetic preservative up to 8·5 times. Significance and Impact of the Study: To develop an effective preservative system in cosmetics in which a synthetic chemical preservative is replaced by natural essential oils. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synopsis A rapid HPLC method was developed for the assay of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations. The validated method was applied for quantitative determination of these vitamins in simulated emulsion formulation. Samples were analysed directly on a RP-18 reverse phase column with UV detection at 222 nm. A mixture of methanol and isopropanol (25 : 75 v/v) was used as mobile phase. The retention time of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate were 3.0 min and 5.9 min, respectively. Recovery was between 95% and 104%. In addition, the excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The method is simple, reproducible, selective and is suitable for routine analyses of commercial products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: HPLC stability-indicating method was validated for Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in semisolid pharmaceutical/cosmetic formulations containing glutathione and sodium metabisulfite, as antioxidants. The described procedure included a reliable, precise, accurate and specific method determination employing a 250mm×4.6mm C18 column, 0.2% metaphosphoric acid/methanol/acetonitrile (90:8:2, v/v/v) as the mobile phase and detection at 254nm. Nicotinic and ascorbic acids were employed as standards, both presenting purity of 99.0%. Linearity was established for the ascorbic acid concentrations ranging form 1.0 to 12μgmL−1, accuracy/recovery percentage was 95.46–101.54%, precision values were 0.38 (intra-day) and 1.22% (inter-days), and LOD and LOQ were found to be 0.05 and 0.17μgmL−1, respectively. The working mobile phase elevated the ascorbic acid retention time to ≈3.5min at a flow rate of 1.0mLmin−1 and provided resolution of the active from the nicotinic acid (internal standard), degradation product (oxalic acid) and other excipients from the pharmaceutical/cosmetic preparations. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Synopsis The aim of this research was to develop and validate a high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method for simultaneous determination of five sunscreens, namely benzophenone-3 (B-3), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BM), octyl methoxycinnamate (OM), octyl salicylate (OS) and homosalate (HS). The separation and quantitative determination was made by HPLC at 40 ±1°C with a gradient elution from 10% to 100% mobile phase B in mobile phase A. The gradient liquid chromatographic system constituted of mobile phase A [acetonitrile : water (10 : 90 v/v)] and mobile phase B [acetonitrile : water (90 : 10 v/v)], at a flow rate of 1.0 mL min−1 and ultraviolet detection at 310 nm. The separation was obtained with two Waters® reversed phase columns: Novapack® C-18 and Symmetry® C-18 connected in series. All sunscreens were efficiently separated within 17 min. The coefficient of correlation and average recovery for B-3, BM, OM, OS and HS were 0.9798 and 98.5%, 0.9672 and 98.8%, 0.9922 and 99.1%, 0.9961 and 98.9% and 0.9909 and 99.4% respectively. The relative standard deviations obtained were between 1.07% and 2.44%. The excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The results showed that the proposed method could be used for rapid and simultaneous determination of B-3, BM, OM, OS and HS in sunscreen lotions with precision, accuracy and specificity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]