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Banana (Musa x paradisiaca L.) is a lignocellulosic natural fiber that can be processed to produce eco-friendly and biodegradable hybrid fabrics when combined with other fibers. Natural-dyed banana fiber can be utilized in the production of sustainable materials for wearable products, household linens, technical textiles, and apparel. In this study, banana-silk union fabrics, pre-treated with bio-mordant at concentrations of 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, and 5%, were dyed separately using cochineal insect extract (Dactylopius coccus Costa). To assess the dyeability of the banana-silk union fabric, Anatolian black pine cones (Pinus nigra subsp. pallassiana) were utilized as a bio-mordant, with varying quantities. The CIELab values of the dyeings were measured and compared. Additionally, the chemical composition of the cochineal extract, pinecone mordant, raw fabric, and selected dyed fabrics was analyzed using Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The washing, light, and rubbing fastness properties of the dyed banana-silk union fabrics were also evaluated and compared. This study developed a method for weaving union fabric by blending two distinct natural yarns, namely banana and silk, to reduce dependence on a single fiber and promote the utilization of agricultural waste. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, the potential of beetroot as a natural source to dye a synthetic fiber that is, nylon 6 fabric, has been examined. We analyzed the impact of the most important dyeing parameters, such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, pH of the dye bath, and dye concentration, on the dyeing efficiency of the nylon 6 fabric. We achieved the optimal conditions for nylon dyeing by beetroot at the boiling temperature for 60 min using 100% on the fabric weight (owf) dye under acidic conditions. Also, to attain suitable color fastness, we used four different natural mordants (pomegranate peel, walnut husk, pistachio hull, and Terminalia Chebula) before the dyeing process. We also examined the effect of four commonly used metal mordants on the dyeing efficiency. FTIR, SEM, EDX and TGA were then conducted to justify the presence of mordants and dyes on the substrate. We discovered that pre‐mordanting generated colorful fabrics based on the type of mordants used. Also, various natural mordants could produce different color strengths, such that the walnut husk had the highest color strength among the used mordants. The obtained color fastness against washing of all bio‐mordants was rated as excellent and the light fastness of Terminalia Chebula was surprisingly excellent. Bio‐mordants also exhibited equivalent washing fastness to metal mordants, even surpassing them in terms of light fastness. The EDX spectra also showed peaks corresponding to carbon (C), nitrogen (N), and oxygen (O). Finally, the fabric mordanted with pomegranate peel exhibited very less mass loss, thus indicating thermal stability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Banana (Musa × paradisiaca L.) is a lignocellulosic natural fiber that can be processed to produce eco-friendly and biodegradable hybrid fabrics when combined with other fibers. Natural-dyed banana fiber can be utilized in the production of sustainable materials for wearable products, household linens, technical textiles, and apparel. In this study, banana-silk union fabrics, pre-treated with bio-mordant at concentrations of 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, and 5%, were dyed separately using cochineal insect extract (Dactylopius coccus Costa). To assess the dyeability of the banana-silk union fabric, Anatolian black pine cones (Pinus nigra subsp. pallassiana) were utilized as a bio-mordant, with varying quantities. The CIELab values of the dyeings were measured and compared. Additionally, the chemical composition of the cochineal extract, pinecone mordant, raw fabric, and selected dyed fabrics was analyzed using Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The washing, light, and rubbing fastness properties of the dyed banana-silk union fabrics were also evaluated and compared. This study developed a method for weaving union fabric by blending two distinct natural yarns, namely banana and silk, to reduce dependence on a single fiber and promote the utilization of agricultural waste.

Cotton is a textile material frequently used in the medical system. The possibility of using natural extracts for coloring biotextiles is a current way of giving sustainability attributes to articles used in medicine. The influence of five different classical mordants and biomordants (citric acid, tannic acid, ferrous sulfate II, copper sulfate and ferrous sulfate with oxalic acid), by meta-mordanting and dyeing by exhaustion and sonication methods with Rhus typhina L. fruit extract, was evaluated. The investigation was carried out by measuring the chromatic coordinates, water and dry rubbing resistance, as well as measuring the FT-IR absorption spectra. The mixture between ferrous sulfate and 4% oxalic acid produced, according to the ATRFTIR analysis, the greatest changes in the cotton structure, but significantly reduces the color changes resulting from the simple use of sulfate. The promising obtained results such as low color changes when using biomordants, good resistance to water and friction, encourage to continue the research regarding the application of this extract in the friendly technology of cotton dyeing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Todays, there is a strong tendency toward eco-dyeing with natural products. Several natural dyes have been used for dyeing protein fibers such as wool and silk fiber. This work examines the effect of metal mordant and biomordant on the color strength of dyed woolen yarn with madder, weld, and pomegranate natural dyes. The wool was mordanted with alum metallic and colorless mordant as well as walnut as colored and biomordant in pre-mordanting method. The madder, weld, and pomegranate natural dyes were extracted via ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE). The woolen yarn was dyed with concentrations of 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100% WOF of natural dyes. The absorption behavior and dyeing properties of natural dyes were explored by measuring the reflectance spectra and colorimetric parameter of dyed samples. The spectral derivative method was used to analyze the reflectance spectra. The color strength of natural dyes was evaluated by measuring the K/S as reflectance function at λ max (SWL), SUM, WSUM, FK, KSgm, KSf, SKSf, and the first-order derivative of K/S spectra. The colorimetric study indicated that the color of the dyed woolen yarn changed with alteration of the mordant. The statistical analysis revealed that there were significant correlations between the first-order derivative of K/S spectra d1(K/S) as a new color strength parameter and other color strength parameters such as SWL, SUM, WSUM, KSf, SKSf, and color strength parameters. The obtained results indicated that the color strength of the natural dye with alum as metal mordant was greater than that of walnut as colored and biomordant. The study of fastness properties of dyed samples with madder and weld natural dyes showed that the wash and light fastness of the sample with alum mordant were better than those of walnut mordant. However, the samples dyed with pomegranate natural dye indicated that the wash and light fastness were the same for alum and walnut mordants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The environmental production of handmade carpets considering the application of natural materials; fibers, dyes, and mordants helps us benefit from the advantages of using renewable sources of raw materials. Metal salts are frequently employed as mordants to improve the fastness qualities. This article aims to investigate the yellow appearance of handmade carpets achieved by applying biomordants instead of metallic ones through spectral and colorimetric analysis. This method involved using reseda as a natural dye, yellow and black myrobalan as biomordants, and alum as a metallic mordant. After pre-mordanting and dyeing of the wool yarns, the achieved colors, color strengths, and key fastness properties were compared. The findings showed that using biomordants leads to appropriate color strengths and fastness qualities in addition to expanding the color gamut. Gratefully, the outcomes of current research guarantee to achieve the yellow appearance in Iranian handmade carpets through totally the novel eco-friendly procedure. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tannins from tamarind seed husk were extracted and applied as a biomordant for natural dyeing process of Timor woven fabrics. Tannins were extracted using hot distilled water, qualitatively and quantitatively analyzed and applied as a color binder to the woven fabrics. The color characteristics of woven fabrics with tannins were compared to the woven fabrics that mordanted with Al2(SO4)3 and FeSO4 at the concentration of 15%. Tamarind seed husk tannins are in the form of a brownish red powder. Qualitative and quantitative tests showed that tamarind seed coat contained condensed tannins with a total concentration of 70.08 ± 0.14%. Tannins identification by FT-IR spectroscopy showed a strong band absorption at 3369 cm-1 for O-H group and a weak absorption at 1721 cm-1 due to the C=O stretch. A strong absorption at 1611-1608 cm-1 was observed for C=C group in the aromatic ring and was strengthened with a strong absorption at 1520 cm-1, C-O-C group which is specific for condensed tannins was observed at 1285 cm-1. Application of 15% tannin as a biomordant without natural dye on Timor woven fabric produced a brownish red color, while the use of 15% tannin and turmeric dye showed a brownish yellow color. Tannin exhibited a better color fastness than metalic mordants in natural dyeing of Timor woven fabrics.

This research aims to optimize the dyeing process of marigold flower dye by using banana peel extraction as a biomordant in cotton fabrics. In the beginning, we investigated the optimal condition for extracting tannin compounds from fresh banana peel. Then, the woven cotton fabrics were dyed with marigold flower extraction at 90°C for 60 min with three different mordanting methods; pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, and meta-mordanting. With meta-mordanting, the ratios of mordant to dye solution were varied. The mordanting temperature and time of each methods were studied. The color strength, CIEL*a*b*, wash fastness, and light fastness were also inspected. It was found that the optimal condition for tannin extraction from the fresh banana peel was at 90°C, 1 h. When dyeing cotton fabrics with marigold flower dye by the pre-mordanting and post-mordanting method, the optimal mordanting condition was achieved at 60°C, 120 min, as the dyed fabrics showed the highest color strength. Moreover, the optimal condition of meta-mordant method was shown at 30°C, 90 min at the mordant to dye = 2:1 and 30°C, 60 min at the mordant to dye = 1:1 and 1:2. The color fastness of the mordanted cotton fabric was improved, especially the post-mordant method.

The aim of the study was to evaluate the performance of tannin mordant from Psidium guajava leaves, Peltophorum pterocarpum bark, and Coffea arabica leaves in cotton batik dyeing using tingi bark (Ceriops tagal). This research was conducted by initial quantitative analysis of each extract to measure the quantity of tannin using UV-Vis spectrophotometry with tannic acid as a standard solution. The next process was a fabric pre-mordanting using each mordant extract, batik process, coloring with tingi bark extract, and post-mordanting using each alum solution and guava leaves extract. The dyed batik fabric was tested toward its color intensity and durability/fastness properties. From the quantitative analysis, guava leaves extract contains the biggest tannin content compared with jambal bark and coffee leaves extract, which is 1151.5 μg/mL. The dyed sample from combination of Guava leaves extract pre-mordanting with alum post-mordanting provided the best color intensity of 15.52. While all variables had an equal good value for washing fastness. It can be concluded that all material had potential as natural mordant for cotton batik dyeing with natural dye, but with consideration of using metal mordant for combination to get better results in terms of both color intensity and fastness properties. Keywords: batik; biomordant; natural dye; tannin mordant A B S T R A K Tujuan dari penelitian ini adalah untuk mengetahui kinerja mordan tanin dari daun jambu biji (Psidium guajava), kulit kayu jambal (Peltophorum pterocarpum) dan daun kopi (Coffea arabica) dalam pewarnaan kain batik katun dengan pewarna alami tingi (Ceriops tagal). Penelitian dilakukan dengan terlebih dahulu mengukur kadar tanin total dari masing-masing ekstrak secara kuantitatif menggunakan spektrofotometri UV-Vis dengan larutan standar asam tanat. Proses selanjutnya adalah mordan awal kain menggunakan masing-masing ekstrak mordan, pembatikan, pewarnaan menggunakan ekstrak kulit kayu tingi, dan mordan akhir menggunakan masing-masing larutan tawas dan ekstrak daun jambu biji. Kain batik berwarna diuji ketuaan warna dan ketahanan luntur warnanya. Dari hasil analisis kuantitatif, didapatkan kandungan tanin terbesar dari ekstrak daun jambu biji yaitu 1.151,5 μg/mL. Hasil uji ketuaan warna paling besar didapatkan dari perlakuan mordan awal daun jambu biji dan mordan akhir tawas dengan nilai 15,52, sedangkan ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian secara rata-rata memberikan nilai 4 (baik) untuk semua variabel. Kesimpulan yang dapat diambil yaitu ekstrak daun jambu biji, kulit kayu jambal, dan daun kopi memiliki potensi untuk digunakan sebagai bahan mordan pada pewarnaan batik. Penggunaan ketiga bahan mordan alami memerlukan kehadiran mordan logam untuk memperkuat intensitas warna dan ketahanan luntur warna kain. Kata kunci: batik; biomordan; mordan tannin; pewarna alam

This study was undertaken to propose an alternative use of Acacia nilotica bark extract as a potential source of biomordant for the development of ecofriendly shades of varying hue and tone in conjunction with Kerria lacca (Lac) and Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) natural dyes. The colorimetric analysis of K. lacca and R. emodi natural dyes were evaluated onto the woolen yarn samples adopting pre-mordanting technique using 1.0–5.0% (o.w.f.) A. nilotica as biomordant. The hue of color developed was found to be in yellow-red coordinate of color space diagram with hues shifted toward red region for K. lacca and toward yellow region for R. emodi dyed samples. The color strength (K/S) values were found to increase with increase in the concentration of biomordant and were found highest for 5.0% (o.w.f.) A. nilotica mordanted samples. Color fastness with respect to light exposure, washing, rubbing for the developed shades ranged between good to very good ratings of 4–5 on grey scale, confirming the possibility of using A. nilotica bark extract as a potential source of biomordant for enhancing the colorimetric and fastness characteristics of dyed woolen yarn samples.

Textile and dyeing are one of the most significant industries in many states. The employing of natural dyes in dyeing procedure is very important due to the environmental security of the area. To obtain a green, clean, and environmentally friendly dyeing of yarns, two natural dyes of madder and weld, which are native to Iran, were employed for dyeing yarns for carpet preparation. Due to the low affinity of natural dyes and maintaining the biocompatibility of the dyeing process, the oak was used as a new tannin rich mordant. The ultrasound-microwave-assisted method in water solution was used for extraction, and yield to the process was obtained about 27, 32, and 36% for madder, weld, and oak, respectively. The extractions were analyzed by UV–Visible and SEM techniques, and the ash, humidity, and density properties of these were investigated. The pre-mordanting method was employed for this study, and ferrous sulphate was used for compare of natural mordant performance. The washed, mordanted, and dyed yarns were investigated by analytical techniques, and the accuracy of these processes was confirmed. The fastness properties as well as the colorimetric characteristics of dyed yarns were assessed using related standards, and the dyed yarns have acceptable performance and could compete with metal mordant, colorimetrically. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study was undertaken to propose an alternative use of Adhatoda vasica leaves extract as a potential source of natural dye for the coloration of woolen yarn/fibers. Premordanting technique was adopted with double metal salt combinations of ferrous sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium aluminum sulfate and double biomordant combinations of gallnut, pomegranate, and babool, to achieve dyed textile materials of acceptable colorimetric and fastness properties. Sixty-three sober and elegant shades were developed on wool by varying the nature and the concentration of mordants involved in the combinations. The hue of color developed was found to be in yellow-red coordinate of color space diagram. All the dyed samples presented excellent color strength (K/S) values and highest values were found in case of gallnut + pomegranate peel extract (PPE) combination. Biomordants produced altogether different behavior in comparison to metal mordants in the development of ecofriendly shades of different hue and tune. Majority of the dyed samples showed excellent fastness properties with respect to light, washing, and rubbing which confirmed the possibility of using A. vasica leaves extract as an effective yellow natural dye.

Nowadays, using sustainable dyeing process has become a necessity, but does not meet performance requirements. Application of biomordants was recommended to enhance the quality of dyeing. Tannin-based biomordants appeared advantageous in green dyeing; meanwhile, unconditional affinity towards fibers of different types has attracted the attention of researchers. We introduce the idea of using combination of natural mordant as a new technique for sustainable dyeing of wool and a model natural fiber. In this study, Iranian madder was used as green dye and Yellow Myrobalan (YM) and Black Myrobalan (BM) employed as biomordant. FTIR-ATR spectra of the washed, mordanted, and mordanted-dyed wool fibers confirmed appropriate bonding among wool fibers, green mordant, and dye molecules. The superior color strength of wool fibers dyed with 4 %YM+6 %BM and 40 % madder was featured by K/S value of 35.77 and was obviously higher than that of madder by sumac, 9.5. Fastness properties (light, wash, and rub fastness) of wool dyed with combination of YM and BM were good. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This research paper is focused on the dyeing of silk fabrics with a natural dye extracted from Celosia flower and banana pseudostem sap as a biomordant. The dyeing process was carried out by three different techniques i.e. pre-, post-, and simultaneous mordanting method. The effect of dyeing process parameters namely mordant concentration, pH, and temperature on the dye absorption and fastness properties of dyed silk fabric have been investigated for each dyeing method. Optimal values of dyeing process parameters have been categorized based on the highest value of dye absorption in terms of K/S value. Optimum mordant concentration was found to be 18 % for all sets of dyeing methods. The optimum pH was examined to be 4.5, 4.0, and 4.0 and dyeing temperature was 70 °C, 70 °C, and 65 °C for the pre-, post-, and simultaneous mordanting dyeing methods, respectively. The color fastness to light, washing, and rubbing of dyed silk fabrics was investigated. Fastness values of light and rubbing showed fair-to-good fastness level, whereas the color fastness to washing was found to be good to very good. The antibacterial activity of the banana sap mordanted and simultaneously dyed silk fabrics was evaluated. The dyed silk fabric exhibited moderate antibacterial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Environmental issues inspire the revival of natural dyes that exhibit better biodegradability and more compatibility over synthetic ones. This research is aimed to investigate the effect of color and fastness properties on wool yarn substrate with natural anthraquinone colorants extracted from madder roots using gallnut (Quercus infectoria) extract as anchoring agent. Prior to the dyeing with Indian Madder (Rubia cordifolia), wool fibers were pre and post-treated with different concentrations of gallnut extract (viz 1–5% o.w.f) to get a broad range of beautiful and color fast shades. The feasibility of gallnut extract as an anchoring agent and its effect on color strength and color fastness to light, rubbing, and washing was investigated. Results of color characteristics showed that the color coordinates of the dyed samples were situated in the red-yellow quadrant of the CIELabcolor space. Bio-mordanting with gallnut extract produced shades of practically acceptable color depth, color fastness to light, washing and rubbing. Pre-treatment with gallnut extract is dominated over post-treatment in terms of better colorimetric and fastness results.

Posidonia oceanica is the most extended sea grass in the Mediterranean Sea. Important quantities of this alga are accumulated on coasts making necessary the cleaninness of those beaches where it can be found. For this reason, many authors are developmenting new products made by this raw material, like green composites or are studing this material to be used as biomass, for example. The aim of this study is to dye the Posidonia Oceanica fiber using commercial natural dye to change their appearance to get a material more attractive for different areas. To achieve this aim, fibers were scoured and bleached in order to remove the brown colour of the Posidonia Oceanica fibers. Scoured and bleached processes were followed by the treatment done for cellulosic fibers, because some researches indicate that P. Oceanica is composed of high quantity of cellulose. Different types of biomordants were use in the pre-treatment of the fiber to improve the affinity between the fiber and the dye used. To compare the results, we evaluate the colour of each sample using CIELAB parameters and colour differences (ΔE*), which are obtained by reflexion spectrophotometre. The results showed that medium molecular weight chitosan, which was used as biomordant, gets the highest intensity of colour

This study was undertaken to propose an alternative use of Acacia nilotica bark extract as a potential source of biomordant for the development of ecofriendly shades of varying hue and tone in conjunction with Kerria lacca (Lac) and Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) natural dyes. The colorimetric analysis of K. lacca and R. emodi natural dyes were evaluated onto the woolen yarn samples adopting pre-mordanting technique using 1.0-5.0% (o.w.f.) A. nilotica as biomordant. The hue of color developed was found to be in yellow-red coordinate of color space diagram with hues shifted toward red region for K. lacca and toward yellow region for R. emodi dyed samples. The color strength (K/S) values were found to increase with increase in the concentration of biomordant and were found highest for 5.0% (o.w.f.) A. nilotica mordanted samples. Color fastness with respect to light exposure, washing, rubbing for the developed shades ranged between good to very good ratings of 4-5 on grey scale, confirming the possibility of using A. nilotica bark extract as a potential source of biomordant for enhancing the colorimetric and fastness characteristics of dyed woolen yarn samples. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study was undertaken to propose an alternative use of Adhatoda vasica leaves extract as a potential source of natural dye for the coloration of woolen yarn/fibers. Premordanting technique was adopted with double metal salt combinations of ferrous sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium aluminum sulfate and double biomordant combinations of gallnut, pomegranate, and babool, to achieve dyed textile materials of acceptable colorimetric and fastness properties. Sixty-three sober and elegant shades were developed on wool by varying the nature and the concentration of mordants involved in the combinations. The hue of color developed was found to be in yellow-red coordinate of color space diagram. All the dyed samples presented excellent color strength (K/S) values and highest values were found in case of gallnut + pomegranate peel extract (PPE) combination. Biomordants produced altogether different behavior in comparison to metal mordants in the development of ecofriendly shades of different hue and tune. Majority of the dyed samples showed excellent fastness properties with respect to light, washing, and rubbing which confirmed the possibility of using A. vasica leaves extract as an effective yellow natural dye. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Environmental issues inspire the revival of natural dyes that exhibit better biodegradability and more compatibility over synthetic ones. This research is aimed to investigate the effect of color and fastness properties on wool yarn substrate with natural anthraquinone colorants extracted from madder roots using gallnut (Quercus infectoria) extract as anchoring agent. Prior to the dyeing with Indian Madder (Rubia cordifolia), wool fibers were pre and post-treated with different concentrations of gallnut extract (viz 1–5% o.w.f) to get a broad range of beautiful and color fast shades. The feasibility of gallnut extract as an anchoring agent and its effect on color strength and color fastness to light, rubbing, and washing was investigated. Results of color characteristics showed that the color coordinates of the dyed samples were situated in the red-yellow quadrant of the CIELabcolor space. Bio-mordanting with gallnut extract produced shades of practically acceptable color depth, color fastness to light, washing and rubbing. Pre-treatment with gallnut extract is dominated over post-treatment in terms of better colorimetric and fastness results. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

The current study is the first report of using biomordants with prina extract as a possible substitute for environmentally unfavourable metallic mordants. As a part of sustainable and cleaner production approach, eco-friendly natural dyeing conditions were presented in terms of cost and consumption efficiencies. A novel and renewable natural dye source prina is an essential by-product of olive oil production. This biomass was valorized in wool dyeing in conjunction with biomordants namely powder of iris germanica (I. Versicolor), valex (acorn of Quercus ithaburensis ssp.macrolepis), pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) rind, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), and thuja (thuja orientalis). Their color coordinates and fastness properties were compared and assessed versus metallic mordants. Prina extract itself without mordant has a fair light fastness of 3 and an excellent washing fastness of 4-5 both for color change and bleeding. Valex, pomegranate rind, iris, rosemary, and thuja leaves were proposed as promising alternatives to alum, iron II sulfate, copper II sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate. Biomordants generated significant color yield increment and exhibited equivalent fastness properties to metallic mordants. Water, energy, dye, chemical cost, and consumption of natural and synthetic dyeings on the basis of mill conditions were also calculated and compared mutually. Total recipe cost and chemicals/auxiliary consumption of natural dyeing are on average significantly less than with synthetic dyeing. Considerable savings are possible with natural dyeing, especially one-bath, in terms of cost, time, and consumption. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, a functional colorant, Berberine, extracted from Berberis vulgaris wood was applied onto wool fiber using the extract of roots of Rumex Hymenosepolus as biomordant. The effect of treatment variables on the color strength of dyed fibers was examined. The fastness properties of dyed wool against washing, light, dry and wet rubbing were evaluated. Dyed samples were tested for antibacterial activity using AATCC test method 100-2004. Tannin present in the roots of Rumex hymenosepolus when used as a biomordant on wool increased the color strength of the dyed goods. Increase in dyeing time, temperature and pH caused deeper shades. Biomordanting, increased light fastness, rub fastness and wash fastness of dyed samples. The dyed wool represented a high level of antibacterial activity. The extract of the Berberis vulgaris can be considered as a natural dye of acceptable fastness properties together with excellent antibacterial activity for woolen textiles.

The present study was aimed to get extraction of natural colorants from golden duranta (Duranta repnes) leaves powder and its characterisation under microwave treatment. Dyeing powder and cotton fabrics, both were exposed to microwaves for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 min. Aqueous, alkaline and methanol solubilised extracts were obtained from non-irradiated and irradiated golden duranta leaves powders. Chromium, tannic acid and pomegranate peel were applied to enhance colour strength of extracted dye. Golden duranta leaves powder and cotton fabrics treated with radiation significantly enhanced the extraction and dyeing process by reducing salt concentration. Microwave treatments also had significant affect on colour strength and fastness characteristics of cotton fabricss dyed with golden duranta. Microwave treatment of 1 min was the most affective dose for colorant extraction. The result from mordanting experiments indicated that as compared to chemical mordants, bio-mordant gives good colour strength both in pre and post mordanting before and after dyeing at optimum conditions. Moreover, 3% of bio-mordant as pre- and 5% as post-mordant give good colour strength, which makes the process more ecofriendly. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The classical use of synthetic dyes is causing issues of environmental pollution and heath risk. As a consequence natural dyes are gaining interest, but the use of natural dyes still includes toxic reagents such as metals as mordants and acids to enhance color and yield. Therefore, we designed a new chitosan-polypropylene imine dendrimer hybrid at 0-2000 mg/L to treat wool before dyeing with cochineal. We compared dye exhaustion, color depth, color characteristics, and color fastness of the new process with dyed pristine and metal mordanted wool. Results show that wool pretreatment improved dye exhaustion from 48 to 88 %, shifted saturation point toward lower dye concentration from 3000 to 1000 mg/L, and improved color depth from 13.68 for pristine wool and 15.17 for metal mordanted wool to 23.89 for the new process. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The triple bottom line can be impacted in both positive and negative ways by the use of tree sawmill waste as a natural dye. Trees contain a biomordant in the form of tannin which may eliminate the need for metallic mordants, thus reducing water, thermal energy, residual waste, and exposure to a mordant chemical. Dyeing with mill waste provides an economic option for an existing timber manufacturing byproduct. This research analyzed the impact of potassium aluminum sulfate (PAS) on dye concentration, hue, and colorfastness to light and laundering for three regional dyewoods (black walnut, Osage orange, and eastern redcedar) on wool yarn. Dye concentrations were pre-tested to find a standard depth of shade between mordanted and nonmordanted yarns. Tests for colorfastness to light and laundering were performed according to AATCC methods. Resulting colors for exposed and unexposed specimens were rated using CIE L*a*b* values and descriptive statistics were used to examine directional relationship within independent variables mordant and exposure (light and laundering). Two-sample t test was performed to investigate the effect of a PAS mordant versus no mordant on overall color difference between specimens exposed to light and laundering. Findings indicated that dye absorption was improved with the use of a PAS mordant. For yarns premordanted with PAS the dyewood colors became warmer. A PAS mordant slightly improved colorfastness to light for black walnut and eastern redcedar, but did not influence Osage orange which had a color change from bright yellow to warm brown after exposure to light. Colorfastness to laundering improved only for Osage orange with a PAS mordant. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the present study, anthraquinone colorants were extracted from powdered Rubia cordifolia roots and applied on wool fiber. Acacia catechu is used as a biomordant, a replacement to metallic mordants, for wool dyeing, and the effect on color characteristics and fastness properties was assessed. Shades on wool of red tones with good to excellent color fastness properties were obtained. Pre-mordanting with A. catechu improved the overall color and fastness parameters, due to the maximum dye uptake. Auxochromic groups responsible for interaction of dye and wool were studied by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) analysis of R. cordifolia extract. The surface morphology of dyed wool fiber was investigated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) for any changes on fiber after dyeing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An agroindustrial waste, outer green shell of almond fruit has been valorised as a novel natural dye using chemical solvent-free extraction, small amount of metallic mordants, one-bath biomordanted dyeing, ultrasonic medium, auxiliary-free dyeing and washing. The main objective of this study is to evaluate biomordants vs. metallic mordants depending on heating system both in extraction and dyeing and to reveal alternatives to metallic mordants. Effects of conventional- and ultrasound-assisted systems on dyeing and fastness properties were investigated. Wool fabrics dyed using metallic mordants (alum, iron II sulphate, copper II sulphate and potassium dichromate) were compared with the samples dyed in conjunction with biomordants [powder of valex (acorn of Quercus ithaburensis ssp. macrolepis), pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) rind, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and thuja (Thuja orientalis) leaves] in terms of colour yield, colour coordinates and fastness properties. Heating system had significant effects on dyeing and fastness results. Power ultrasound did not present any advantage in colour yield increment while it presented different effects on fastness values depending on mordant and process type of which ultrasound was applied. Some biomordants could be replaced with metallic mordants depending on their types and heating system. They could produce completely different colour gamuts just like metallic mordants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: An ecological approach has been presented by valorisation of outer green shell of almond fruit as a novel natural dye using chemical solvent free extraction, small amount of metallic mordant, alternative natural mordants, auxiliary free dyeing and washing. The main objective of this study is to evaluate biomordants versus metal mordants and to reveal the substitution of the prevalent metallic mordants for biomordants as renewable natural sources. The use of a smaller amount of metallic mordant (0.2 g/L - 1 %) and less plant (1 g plant/3 g fabric) than in most current natural dye applications is a major advantage of dyeing with almond shell extract. Wool fabrics dyed using metallic mordants namely alum, iron II sulfate, copper II sulfate and potassium dichromate were compared with the samples dyed using biomordants; powder of valex (acorn of Quercus ithaburensis ssp. macrolepis), pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) rind, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and thuja (Thuja orientalis) leaves in terms of colour measurements, light and wash fastness values. These biomordants were used alone and in conjunction with almond shell extract in the same bath to dye wool fabric. Rose, brown, cinnamon and burgundy/reddish hues were achieved by using alum, iron II sulfate, copper II sulfate and potassium dichromate respectively. Especially rose and burgundy/reddish shades are unique colours for natural dyes. Biomordants exhibited different interactions with almond shell extract resulting in quite different colour gamuts. Rosemary can be alternative to alum (pre and post mordanting), iron II sulfate (pre mordanting) and copper II sulfate (pre, simultaneous and post mordanting). Thuja orientalis leaves, valex and pomegranate rind cannot be precisely substituted for any of the metallic mordants used in this research. However, thuja leaves with almond shell ensured relatively similar colours to alum (pre and post mordanting). Considering the fastness properties; thuja was not effective on washing and light fastness, valex and pomegranate rind improved both washing and light fastness, rosemary was not effective on light fastness while it slightly improved the washing fastness. Valex and pomegranate produced equal light fastness to copper and iron mordant while they exceeded that of the alum and chromium. The light fastness values of rosemary and thuja were similar to alum and chromium and less than copper and iron. Use of biomordants is very promising concept as an alternative method that may help to reduce the reliance on toxic metal salt mordants. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

In this study, woollen yarn was dyed with industrial rose pulp from Isparta, a process that may pose environmental risks. The woollen yarn was processed with Savinase 16L, a protease enzyme, then dyed with biomordants such as citric acid, tannic acid and acetic acid, as well as with metal mordants such as aluminium sulphate, aluminium potassium sulphate, ferrous sulphate and potassium dichromate. The results showed that the yarn pretreated with the protease enzyme exhibited increased dyeability and pilling values without excessive loss of weight or strength. Although different shades were obtained with biomordants, different colours were obtained with metal mordants. The analysis of the waste water and metal content of the final product showed compliance with the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Premordanting of jute fabric was carried out following single mordanting by biomordants (myrobolan and pomegranate) and ecofriendly chemical mordants (ferrous sulphate and potash alum) and double mordanting by sequential treatment of biomordant and ecofriendly chemical mordant. Extraction condition of natural dyes from manjistha, annatto, ratanjot and babool was standardised and applied on premordanted jute fabric. There is a substantial improvement of colour yield, levelness of dyeing and wash fastness properties of natural dyed jute fabric after double premordanting using bio and chemical mordant. Light fastness ratings are moderate to good while rubbing fastness are very good to excellent for all the natural dyed jute fabric. Very good ultraviolet (UV) protection ratings are achieved in case of dyeing of jute fabric using natural dyes extracted from manjistha, annatto, ratanjot and babool after premordanting with sequential treatment of biomordant and chemical mordant. UV protection properties of natural dyed jute fabric follows the order babool > annatto > manjistha > ratanjot. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

Abstract: In this research, extraction of dyes from Opuntia ficus-indica was conferred by ultrasound. Dyes extracted and isolated from Opuntia ficus-indica plant were separated by fractional crystallization method and characterized by mass techniques. The dyeing of wool fabric using betanin as natural dye and Chlorophyll-a as biomordant has been studied. Results show an increase in the colour strength values with increasing the concentration of biomordant. The effect of treatment variables on the colour strength of dyed fibres was also examined. It was found that pH and temperature of dyeing influences considerably the results; this is mainly linked to the stability conditions of betanin dye. Dye exhaustion was studied in both conventional and ultrasonic dyeing process. It was shown that sonication improve dye exhaustion from rating 30% to rating 60% in a shorter dyeing time. The fastness properties of dyed wool against washing, light, dry and wet rubbing were evaluated. Un-mordanted and mordanted samples have good fastness properties. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Rubia cordifolia (Tamin, local name) produces anthraquinone reddish orange dyes in roots, stem and leaves, which has been used for dyeing textiles since ancient times. Commercial sonicator dyeing with Rubia showed that pretreatment with biomordant, Eurya acuminata DC var euprista Karth. (Theaceae family) [local name, Nausankhee (Apatani tribe), Turku (Nyishi tribe) in 2%] shows very good fastness properties for dyed cotton using dry powder as 10% of the weight of the fabric is optimum. Use of biomordant replaces metal mordants making natural dyeing ecofriendly. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

• An effective and value-adding management of agricultural waste of fruit seeds. • Replacing toxic metal mordants with environmental friendly bio mordants. • Achieving a variety of color shades with enhanced color strength and fastness. • Achieving fabric bio-functions of UV protection, antioxidant and antibacterial properties. As agricultural waste, fruit seeds have received little attention in producing natural colorant for textile dyeing application. This work uses Eriobotrya japonica L. seed skins (EJSS) as source of natural dye for the coloration and bio-functional finishing of wool fabric. Investigation has been made to the optimal extracting conditions (such as solvent system, pH, temperature and time) and natural dye characterization (chemical components, surface morphology, and thermal stability) using UV–vis, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), Scanning electron microscope (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), Energy Dispersive X-rays Spectroscopy (EDS) and Differential calorimetry (DSC). Flora leaves of Chinese Tallow, Folium Artemisiae Argyi and Cinnamomum Camphora were used to produce bio-mordants in this work. Pre-mordant fabric dyeing was conducted with comparisons made between bio-mordants and traditional metal ion mordants (ferrous sulfate, potassium aluminium sulfate, and copper sulfate). Results showed that pre-mordant dyeing using EJSS natural dye can produce wool fabric with a variety of shades with enhanced color strength, color fastness, and bio-functions (such as UV protection, antioxidant and antibacterial properties). Fabric mordanted with tannin-rich bio-mordant showed the best color strength and excellent functional behavior due to the high interaction between fiber and dye molecules activated by functional groups (such as phenolic groups). The outcome of this study can provide a potential to the application of agricultural waste to the natural dyeing of textile, as well as to a value-adding green waste management. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]