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The paper deals with the analysis of physical and mechanical properties of fabrics woven in four-end twill and eight-end sateen weaves from the same materials and under the same weaving conditions. The purpose of the analysis was to give insight into these properties, which might help designers in the selection of appropriate weaves to achieve visual as well as physical and mechanical properties of end products required during the use. For the purposes of the research 12 samples of fabrics in seven weaves were designed and woven. The samples were classified into three groups in dependence of the weaving method and constructional parameters. The samples of the first and second group were made on industrial loom with the preset warp density 46 ends/cm and the linear density of the warp 17 × 2 tex. The samples of the first group were woven with the same yarn in the weft, only that the yarn was not sized, and with the weft density 26 picks/cm, whereas the samples of the second group had the linear density of the weft 25 × 2 tex and the weft density 18 picks/cm. The third group was woven on laboratory loom with the warp density 40 ends/cm and the weft density 26 picks/cm with the same yarn in the warp and weft 17 × 2 tex. In the first group, which comprised seven samples, four of them were woven in twill weave (weft-faced twill and double-faced twill, and its broken variants in the repeat) and three of them in eight-end sateen (weft-faced sateen and two versions of reinforced sateen). The fabrics of the second group were woven in twill and broken twill weaves, and the fabrics of the third group were woven in sateen weaves. The research included investigations of constructional, physical and mechanical properties of woven samples. It has been found that in the case of identical constructional parameters and weaving conditions the selection of weave considerably affects physical and mechanical properties of fabrics. Industrially manufactured fabrics in twill weave achieved for more than 100 N higher breaking forces in the warp direction than the fabrics woven in sateen weave. In the weft direction, industrially manufactured twill fabrics achieved only 45 N higher strength than the fabrics woven in sateen weave. The breaking elongation of fabrics woven in twill weave was two to two and a half times higher in the warp direction than in the weft direction. Breaking elongations of fabrics in sateen weave in the warp and weft direction only slightly differed ; they were of the same order of magnitude. Weaving conditions as well as use of industrial or laboratory looms also affected physical and mechanical properties. Fabrics made under laboratory conditions achieved better mechanical properties than industrially manufactured fabrics, which can be attributed to lower stresses and consequently, smaller damages during the weaving process. The research can help designers to select appropriate weaves when designing structural patterns (shaft and jacquard fabrics) which will in addition to visual characteristics and effects impart also appropriate physical and mechanical properties to the manufactured fabrics.

Otkana su 23 uzorka tkanine da bi se procjenio utjecaj gustoće i veza na mehanička svojstva kvadratičnih uzoraka pamučnih tkanina, kako bi se proračunala oštećenja pređa koja nastaju tijekom procesa tkanja te predvidjele vrijednosti prekidne sile i prekidnog istezanja. Svi uzorci su dizajnirani i proizvedeni na originalni način u jednakim uvjetima proizvodnje. Korišten je najjednostavniji postupak proračuna svojstava kidanja tkanine na osnovi uvjeta mjerenja, broja niti u tkanini te prekidne sile i istezanja pojedinačnih niti. Ustanovljena je vrlo dobra korelacija između teoretski izračunatih i izmjerenih vrijednosti prekidne sile. Predviđanje prekidnog istezanja tkanine ovisi o izabranoj gustoći i odabranom vezu. Korelacija između predviđenih i izmjerenih vrijednosti je značajno manja, ali slična prekidnoj sili i može se opisati linearnim odnosom. Rezultati mjerenja vrednovani su suvremenim statističnim postupcima ANOVA i PCA. Statistička analiza podataka potvrdila je zaključke temeljene na klasičnim analizamaizmjerenih rezultata. Štoviše, identificirano je i vizualizirano (PCA) međusobno djelovanje između utjecajnih parametara (ANOVA) i korelacije između pojedinačnih fizikalno mehaničkih svojstava tkanina.

Preučevanje in poznavanje fizikalnih in mehanskih lasnosti tkanin je pomembno predvsem za dobro načrtovanje in napovedovanje želenih lasnosti tkanin. Zavedati se je treba, da na lasnost surove tkanine poleg konstrukcijskih parametrov (preja, gostota osnove in votka ter vezava) vplivajo tudi tehnološki dejavniki. V preteklosti se je veliko riziskovalcev ukvarjalo z napovedovanjem nateznih lasnosti tkanin. Njihovi riziskovalni pristupi so obsegali geometrijske, mehanske, energijske, numeričke in statične modele. V preteklih raziskovah je bilo ugotovljeno, da ne obstaja enoten model za natančno napovedovanje fizikalnih in mehanskih lasnosti za vse vrste tkanin in konstrukcije tkanine. Za namene riziskave so bile zato stkane tri skupine tkanin: skupina kvadratičnih tkanin v štirih različnih gostotah, z enako prejo v osnovi in votku ter različno vezavo ; skupina surovih tkanin z enako prejo v osnovi in votku, le osnova je škrobljen, in različno gosoto po osnovi in votku ter različno vezavo ; skupina tkanin, ki ima v osnovi enako gostoto in vezavo, surovinska sestava preje v votku pa se spreminja. Izmjerene so bile fizikalne ( stkanje in skrčenje, ploščinska masa, debelina) in mehanske (pretržni raztezek in pretržna sila prej in tkanin) lasnosti prej in tkanin. Namen riziskave je bil oceniti in ugotoviti, ali je možno napovedati natezne lasnosti tkanin s pomočjo enostavnih izračunov pretržne sile in pretržnoga rastezeka ter oceniti napako pri različni konstrukciji tkanin. Ugotovljeno je bilo, kakšne so poškodbe niti v procesu tkanja in kako različni konstrukcijsko/tehnološki parametri vplivaju na poškodbe. Poškodbe prej so bile upoštevane v enostavnih izračunih, da bi bilo napovedovanje bolj natančno. S multifaktorsko ANOVA je bilo ugotovljeno, kateri izmed konstrukcijskih parametrov vplivajo na fizikalne in mehanske lasnosti tkanin, v kakšni meri vplivajo ter obstoj medsebojnih interakcij. S pomočjo metode glavnih komponent (PCA) so bile ugotovljene linearne pozitivne in negativne povezave med fizikalnimi in mehanskimi lasnosti tkanin. S pomočjo multiple linearne regresije so bile izdelane enačbe za napovedovanje nateznih lasnosti tkanin za vsako skupino posebej.

Literature does not provide any data about the degree of change of mechanical characteristics of warp and weft threads during weaving process. A precise prediction of woven fabric characteristics is almos impossible. The objective of our research was to assess the influence of constructional parameters on mechanical characteristics of warp and weft threads. 36 referential samples in 9 different weaves were produced from the same threads 36 tex in warp (sized) and weft. Two different warp densities (22 and 29.3 ends/cm) and two different weft densities (15 and 20 picks/cm) were produced. The results of measurements show that density has a significant influence on changes of mechanical characteristics of individual warp and weft threads. The differences between weaves depended also on the fact to which group of samples they belonged. The smallest differences between weaves appeared in the samples with lower density of warp and weft threads, and the biggest differences in the group of samples with the hghest density of warp and weft [1].

Colour is one of the most important properties of a fabric because its influence on visual effect of a fabric is highly significant. Proper selection of colour is particularly important when the warp and weft threads differ in colour. Namely, these two colour coupled with the constructional parameters of a fabric produce the colour effect. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the possibilities of predicting colour values of fabrics woven from differently coloured threads and to identify and evaluate the differences between the measured and the theoretically calculated values. In the second part of the paper, the colour values of the weft threads, which would produce the desired effect in combination with the known colour of the warp threads, are calculated by using a theoretical model.

Trajnostni princip v tekstilstvu je v zadnjem desetletju med glavnimi nalogami za boljšo razvojno usmeritev ohranjanja naravnih virov za prihodnost. Ena od velikih onesnaževalcev okolja je tudi hitra moda, ki je cenovno dostopna, proizvaja velike količine oblačil, ki jih potrošniki hitro zavržejo. S tem se kopičijo velike količine tekstilnih odpadkov na deponijah. Pojavljajo se alternativne rešitve, kako predelati tekstilne odpadke. Neuporabni tekstil se predela s sosežigom, kar omogoča pridobivanje energije, lahko ga zbiramo in nato sortiramo za socialno šibkejše, uporabimo za termično izolacijo, lahko pa s pomočjo kreativnega recikliranja iz odpadnih oblačil in tekstilij izdelamo nova oblačila ter ostale izdelke. Trajnost in ekološka ozaveščenost sta pomembni tudi v poročni modi, tako pri uporabljenih materialov, kot tudi v porabi materiala in ponovni uporabi izdelkov ter oblačil. Trajnostna poročna oblačila oblikujemo po več principih, kot sta upciklaža, reciklaža in krojenje brez odpadka. V diplomskem delu smo reciklirali staro poročno obleko in izdelali novo, sodobno poročno obleko. V teoretičnem delu diplomskega dela je opisana zgodovina poročnih oblek od samega začetka do danes, izpostavljene so tudi najpopularnejše poročne obleke v različnih časovnih obdobjih. Predstavljeni so pomen in simbolika, najznamenitejše poročne obleke ter trajnostni principi oblikovanja oblačil in razlika med butično ter konfekcijsko izdelavo. Predelava osnovne obleke v novo in potek tehnoloških operacij sta opisana v eksperimentalnem delu. Namen diplomskega dela je preoblikovati staro poročno obleko v novo sodobno, moderno obleko s čim večjim izkoristkom obstoječega materiala in s čim manjšim dodajanjem novega. Navdih za novo obleko je črpan iz elegantnih in preprostih linij letošnjih modnih trendov poročnih kolekcij. Izdelava nove poročne obleke je predstavljena s skico in tehnično skico s tehnološkim opisom, kosovnico, predstavljeni so izdelava krojev in modelacija ter tehnološki plan končnega izdelka. Modelirane krojne dele obleke smo skrojili iz stare poročne obleke, krojni deli so bili razporejeni tako, da je odpadek čim manjši. Odločitev za recikliranje vpliva na ekološko ozaveščanje in skrb za okolje. The principle of sustainability in the textile industry has been one of the most important issues for better human development and conservation of natural resources for the future in the last decade. One of the biggest polluters is fast fashion, which is affordable and produces large quantities of clothing that are quickly discarded by consumers, resulting in large amounts of textile waste. Unusable textiles are recycled through co-incineration, collecting the energy generated and sorting the lumps for the socially vulnerable or using them for thermal insulation. Creative recycling to make new clothes and other products from old garments or textiles is possible. Sustainability and environmental awareness are also important in bridal fashion, both in terms of material use and reuse of products and garments. Sustainable wedding dresses can be designed using different principles such as upcycling, recycling and zero waste. In this diploma thesis, we recycled an old wedding dress and designed a new modern wedding dress. In the theoretical part, the history of wedding dresses from the beginning to the modern era is described and the most popular wedding dresses in different eras are highlighted. The meaning and symbolism as well as the most famous dresses are presented, with a conclusion on the main sustainable principles and the ready-to-wear industry. In the experimental part, the transformation of an old wedding dress into a new one, all the technological processes are described. The goal of the diploma is to transform an old wedding dress into a new, modern dress, using as much as possible of the existing material and adding as little as possible new material. The inspiration for the new wedding dress comes from the elegance and simple, sleek lines of the current bridal collections. The making of the new dress is illustrated with a sketch, a technical sketch with a technical description, a material list, a modelling of the pattern and a technical plan of the finished product. The shaped pattern pieces of the dress were cut from an old wedding dress and the pieces were arranged to minimise waste. The decision to recycle has implications for environmental awareness and protection

Diplomsko delo z naslovom Lastnosti žakarskih pletiv za oblazinjeno pohištvo obravnava žakarska pletiva, ki bi jih lahko uporabili za dekorativne izdelke in oblazinjeno pohištvo, in njihove lastnosti. Cilj diplomskega dela je bil raziskati uporabne lastnosti dvofonturnih žakarskih pletiv z različno zadnjo stranjo pletiva in vpliv dodatka efektne preje na različne uporabne lastnosti pletiv. Žakarska pletiva so bila razvita od začetne vzorčne patrone, izdelane v programu Slikar, do izdelave simulacij v računalniškem programu CAD za simulacijo pletiv Yxendis. Po vzorčni predlogi smo na vzorčni postaji SDS izdelali program za izdelavo pletiv ter jih nato spletli na pletilniku Shima Seiki SES 122 RT z delitvijo 12 E. Izdelali smo šest različnih žakarskih pletiv s tremi različnimi zadnjimi stranmi oz. strukturami: črtasto zadnjo stranjo, keper zadnjo stranjo in v dubl strukturi. Tri pletiva smo spletli s predivno prejo iz mešanice 50 % volne in 50 % akrila, dolžinske mase 36 × 2 tex, trem pletivom smo dodali efektno prejo mešanice 60 % poliestera in 40 % poliaminda, dolžinske mase 20 tex. Rezultati analiz so pokazali, da bi bilo za oblazinjeno pohištvo najprimernejše pletivo s keper zadnjo stranjo in dodanima efektnima prejama, saj dosega dobre rezultate pri drgnjenju in pilingu ter pri pretržnem preizkusu doseže najvišje vrednosti sile in raztezka. V primerjavi s pletivi s črtasto hrbtno stranjo in dublom ter s pletivi brez dodanih efektnih prej je slabše zračno prepustno, toplotna prevodnost pa je približno enaka kot pri pletivih s črtasto zadnjo stranjo. Dodatek efektne preje vpliva predvsem na zbitost in gostoto pletiva ter s tem na prepustnostne lastnosti. Ugotovili smo, kako se izgled slikovne predloge spreminja z različno konstrukcijo žakarskega pletiva (strukturo hrbtne strani). Ugotovili smo tudi, kako različne konstrukcije žakarskega pletiva ter različne preje (dodatek efektne preje) vplivajo na fizikalne in mehanske lastnosti pletiv, kot so npr. zračna prepustnost, elastične lastnosti, pretržna sila in raztezek, toplotna prevodnost ter odpornost na drgnjenje in piling. Potrdili smo, da je struktura pletiv pomembna pri oblazinjenem pohištvu. The diploma thesis entitled Properties of jacquard knitted fabrics for upholstrey deals with jacquard knitted fabrics and their properties that can be used for decorative products and upholstered furniture. The aim of the work was to study the usage properties of double-bed jacquard knitted fabrics with different back side of the knitted fabric and the influence of adding fancy yarn on the different usage properties of knitted fabrics. The jacquard knitted fabrics were developed from the initial pattern created in the Paint program and from the creation of simulations in the computer program CAD for the simulation of Yxendis knitted fabrics. Using the pattern, we created a program to produce knitted fabrics on the pattern station SDS and then knitted them on the Shima Seiki SES 122 RT knitting machine with a gauge of 12E. We made six different jacquard knitted fabrics with three different back sides striped back, twill back and double back. Three knited fabrics were knitted with a yarn made of a blend of 50% wool and 50% acrylic, with a linerar density of 36 × 2 tex, and fancy yarn made of a blend of 60% polyester and 40% polyamide, with a linear density of 20 tex was added to three knits. The results of the analyzes show that the knitted fabric with twill back and added fancy yarn is the most suitable for upholstery, as it achieves good results in rubbing and piling and reaches the highest values in strength and elongation in the tear test. Compared to knitted fabrics with horisontal stripes back and double face and without the addition of fancy yarn, it is less permeable to air and the thermal conductivity is about the same as knitted fabrics with striped backs. The addition of fancy yarn mainly affects the compactness and density of the knitted fabric and thus the permeability properties. We found out how the appearance of the image pattern changes due to the different construction of the jacquard knit (the structure of the back). We also found out how different constructions of jacquard knitwear and different yarns (addition of fancy yarn) affect the physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics, such as air permeability, elastic properties, tensile strength and elongation, thermal conductivity, and resistance to abrasion and piling. We have confirmed that the structure of knitted fabrics is important for use in upholstered furniture.

Zero waste ali koncept brez odpadkov pomeni, da se vse ponovno uporabi in nič ni zavrženo. Zero waste pomeni izdelek ali proces, pri katerem ni odpadnega materiala ali pa je odpadek minimalen. V tekstilni in modni industriji je nastal kot odgovor na hitro modo, kjer nastaja veliko tekstilnih odpadkov tako v samem procesu izdelave oblačil kot po končani uporabi, zato spodbuja oblikovalce, da čim bolj zmanjšajo ali celo odpravijo odpadke, ki nastanejo v tekstilni industriji, tako pred porabo izdelka kot po uporabi. Pri klasičnem krojenju je odpadek materiala vsaj 15 odstotkov zaradi oblike krojev, neujemanja vzorcev in same strukture materiala. Tehnike brez odpadkov vodijo k oblikovanju oblačil, ki se s prilagajanjem krojev na različne načine prilagajajo dimenzijam materiala. Namen diplomskega dela je bil izdelati oblačilo po principu zero waste. V teoretičnem delu smo predstavili značilnosti metode zero waste, ter oblikovalce, ki se ukvarjajo s tem konceptom. Metoda zero waste je tudi trajnostna metoda, zato smo predstavili tudi trajnostni razvoj izdelkov in pojave v modnem sistemu, kot so hitra, počasna in trajnostna moda. V eksperimentalnem delu je predstavljeno oblačilo ? tunika, izdelana po konceptu zero waste. S premišljeno umestitvijo kroja oblačila, modeliranja in premišljenih rezov lahko dosežemo obliko kroja, ki nudi maksimalen izkoristek materiala in v procesu izdelave ne tvori odpadka. Želeli smo dokazati, da modno oblikovanje brez odpadkov ustvarja nove priložnosti za modno oblikovanje, kar zahteva, da je izdelava krojev in krojne slike sestavni del procesa oblikovanja oblačila. Zero Waste concept means that everything is reused, and nothing is discarded. Zero Waste refers to a product or process that generates minimal or no waste materials. The concept was developed in response to fast fashion in the textile and fashion industry, where a lot of textile waste is generated both in the production of garments and in the post-consumer phase. Therefore, designers are encouraged to minimize or even eliminate waste generation in the textile industry. On average, at least 15 percent of all fabric used in traditional tailoring is wasted due to the shape of cuts, mismatched patterns, and the structure of the fabric itself. Waste-free techniques lead to garment design that adapts to the dimensions of the material in different ways by adjusting the cuts. The purpose of this thesis is to design a garment based on the principles of Zero Waste. In the theoretical part, the characteristics of the Zero Waste method are presented, as well as the designers who deal with this concept. Since the Zero Waste method is also a sustainable method, the sustainable development of products and phenomena in the fashion system will also be introduced, such as fast, slow and sustainable fashion. Through the accurate placement of the garment's pattern, modelling, and careful cutting, a shape can be achieved that provides maximum material utilization and eliminates waste in the manufacturing process. This thesis aims to prove that waste-free fashion design creates new opportunities for fashion design, which requires that pattern making, and pattern cutting be an integral part of the fashion design process.

Namen diplomskega dela je ugotoviti, ali lahko v žakarski tkanini ustvarimo iluzijo oziroma imitacijo čipke, ter določiti fizikalno – mehanske lastnosti žakarske tkanine. Čipka je okrasna luknjičasta ali mrežasta ploskovna tekstilija, ki je lahko izdelana ročno ali strojno. Čipke so lahko klekljane, kvačkane, pletene ali šivane. Tkanina je kompaktna ploskovna tekstilija, izdelana s prepletanjem osnove in votka, ki se po svojih lastnostih zelo razlikuje od katerekoli čipke. Na tkanini bomo poskušali izdelati simulacijo čipke. Čipka se od tkanine razlikuje že po konstrukciji, uporabljeni preji, odprtosti tekstilije ter popolnoma različnih fizikalno – mehanskih lastnostih. V prvem delu diplomske naloge smo raziskali zgodovino čipk. Čipke so se kot dekorativne mrežaste tekstilije uporabljale že pred več kot 3000 leti. Najprej so bile vse čipke izdelane ročno, prve naj bi bile šivane, nato klekljane, kvačkane in pletene, v času industrijske revolucije in izdelave strojev pa se je začela tudi strojna izdelava čipk. Največji razcvet so čipke doživele v 16. stoletju, v elizabetinski dobi, ko so jih uporabljali za visoke škrobljene ovratnike. Čipke se danes še vedno izdelujejo ročno, v tradicionalnih ročnih tehnikah in za ohranjanje kulturne dediščine. Sodoben strojni način izdelave čipk je podprt z računalniško podprtimi CAD – sistemi in računalniškim vodenjem proizvodnje, kar omogoča kvalitetnejšo in enostavnejšo izdelavo. Ne glede na način izdelave je namen čipke okraševanje oblačil in hišnih tekstilij. V eksperimentalnem delu smo na podlagi dveh različno izdelanih čipk, ročno kvačkane in snutkovno pletene čipke, izdelali simulacije tkanine s pomočjo CAD – sistema Arahne. Oba vzorca čipk smo najprej digitalizirali s pomočjo programov Adobe Photoshop in Adobe Illustrator ter digitalizirane vzorce pripravili za izdelavo simulacij v CAD – programu Arahne. Izdelane simulacije čipk na tkanini smo tudi stkali. Tkaninam smo izmerili fizikalne, mehanske ter prepustnostne lastnosti ter ju med seboj primerjali, saj sta se konstrukcijsko razlikovali. Ugotovili smo, da je simulacija čipk na tkanini uspela in smo na tkanini poustvarili iluzijo čipke. The purpose of this thesis is to investigate whether an illusion or imitation of lace can be created in jacquard fabrics. In addition, the physical – mechanical properties of jacquard fabric were determined. Lace is a decorative perforated or netted textile that can be handmade or machine – made. Lace can be crocheted, knitted, bobbin – stitched, or sewn. A woven fabric is a compact fabric created by the interweaving of warp and weft threads and has very different properties than lace. We will attempt to simulate lace on woven fabric. Lace differs from woven fabric in its construction, the yarn used, and the openness of the textile. In the first part of this diploma thesis, we looked at the history of lace. Lace has been used as decorative net textiles for more than 3000 years. Originally all lace was made by hand, the first handmade lace was sewn, then bobbin lace, crocheted and knitted. With Industrial Revolution and the advent of machines, machine – made lace was introduced. Lace reached its heyday in the 16th century, during the Elizabethan era, when it was used for high starched collars. Today, lace is still made by hand to preserve tradition and curtular heritage. Modern machine production of lace is supported by computerized systems CAD and computerized production processes that allow for higher quality and easier production. Regardless of the method of production, lace is used to decorate clothing and home textiles. In the experimental part, we used the Arahne CAD system to create a fabric simulation based on two differently manufactured laces, a hand crocheted lace and a machine knitted lace. The two lace patterns were first digitized using Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator, and the digitized patterns were prepared for simulations in Arahne CAD. The simulations of lace on fabric were woven. The physical, mechanical, and permeability properties of the fabrics were measured and compared as they differed in construction. We found that the simulation of lace on fabric was successful and we were able to recreate the illusion of lace on fabric.

Namen diplomskega dela je raziskati udobnostne in ognjevarne lastnosti štirih različnih materialov (bombaža, tencela, mikromodala in mešanice poliakrilata, tencela in tairylana) v treh različnih desno-desnih vezavah. Naredili smo primerjavo med pletivi iz konvencionalnih materialov in pletivi iz mešanice poliakrilata, tencela in tariylana, ki je negorljiv material in ga lahko uporabimo za izdelavo spodnjega perila za gasilce. Primerjali smo njihove prepustnostne lastnosti (zračno prepustnost, toplotno prevodnost, prepustnost vodne pare), omočljivost ter gorljivost, ki vplivajo tudi na udobnost oblačil pri nošenju. Pri izbiri spodnjega perila za gasilce je pomembno, da so pletiva odporna proti ognju, da imajo dobre absorpcijske lastnosti, kar omogoča izhlapevanje odvečne vlage in znoja, ter da so toplotno dobro prevodna, kar vpliva na toplotno udobje. Ugotovili smo, da ima mešanica poliakrilata, tencela in tairylana, ki je ognjevaren material, majhno zračno prepustnost, najmanjšo toplotno prevodnost in majhno prepustnost vodne pare ter za omočenje potrebuje največ časa v primerjavi z ostalimi preskušanimi materiali, tencelom in mikromodalom. Lastnosti pletiv so odvisne tudi od uporabljene vezave. Pletiva z gostejšo strukturo imajo manjše prepustnostne lastnosti kot pletiva, ki imajo redkejšo strukturo. The purpose of this diploma thesis is to explore the comfort and flame-retardant properties of knitted fabrics made from four different materials (cotton, tencel, micromodal, and a blend of polyacrylate, tencel and tairylan) in three different types of double jersey. Knitted fabrics made from conventional materials and knitted fabrics made from a blend of polyacrylate, tencel and tairylan were compared. The blend is a flame-retardant material and could be used to make underwear for firefighters. I compared its permeability properties (air permeability, thermal conductivity, water vapor permeability), wetting and flammability, which also influence the comfort of the clothing. When choosing underwear for firefighters, it is important that the knitted fabric is flame-retardant, has good absorption properties that allow excess moisture and sweat to evaporate, and good thermal conductivity properties that influence thermal comfort. It has been found that the blend of polyacrylate, tencel and tairylan, which is a flame-retardant material, has low air permeability, the lowest thermal conductivity and low water permeability and that, compared to the other materials used in the experiment – tencel and micromodal – it takes longer to wet. The properties of the knitted fabrics also depend on the weave used. Knitted fabrics with a denser structure have lower permeability properties than knitted fabrics with a looser structure.

Tekstilna industrija je ena največjih onesnaževalk, saj proizvede ogromne količine odpadkov, zato iščemo alternativne vire, ki bi zamenjali konvencionalne sintetične materiale in jih nadomestili z različnimi biorazgradljivimi materiali. Industrija se osredotoča na večjo uporabo biorazgradljivih prej, ki predstavljajo manjšo odvisnost od neobnovljivih virov, nižje izpuste CO2 in manjši vpliv na naš ekosistem. Namen diplomske naloge je bil raziskati prepustnostne in vpojnostne lastnosti tkanin z bombažno prejo v osnovi in različnimi biorazgradljivimi prejami v votku (preja iz regeneriranih bambusovih vlaken, polilaktidnih vlaken (PLA), sojinih proteinskih vlaken (SPF) in bombaža). Vzorci so bili stkani v štirih različnih vezavah (platno, panama, keper 1/3 in keper 2/2). Ugotovili smo, da na prepustnostne lastnosti tkanin vplivata material, uporabljen v votku, in vezava. Tkanine z bambusovo prejo v votku imajo najboljšo zračno prepustnost, prav tako tkanine z SPF prejo v votku. Najvišjo zračno prepustnost so dosegle tkanine v vezavi panama in najnižjo tkanine v vezavi platno. Najvišjo toplotno prevodnost imajo čiste bombažne tkanine, najnižjo pa tkanine s PLA prejo v votku. Najvišjo toplotno prevodnost imajo tkanine v vezavi keper 2/2 in najnižjo tkanine v vezavi platno. Na prepustnostne lastnosti vplivajo tudi drugi parametri, kot so število in velikost por ter poroznost tkanin. Na vpojnost v veliki meri vpliva uporabljeni material, saj se meritve kapilarnega dviga v smeri votka precej razlikujejo. Največji kapilarni dvig v smeri votka imajo tkanine z SPF prejo, najmanjšega pa bombažne tkanine. Najvpojnejše tkanine so v vezavi panama, sledita vezavi keper, najmanjšo vpojnost pa imajo tkanine v vezavi platno. Glede na rezultate meritev so tkanine z bambusovo prejo v votku zelo zračno prepustne in toplotno prevodne, tkanine s PLA prejo imajo slabšo toplotno prevodnost, so bolj izolativne, tkanine z SPF prejo v votku pa so slabo zračno prepustne in dobro toplotno prevodne, vpijajo pa tudi veliko vode. Textile industry is one of the biggest polluters as it produces a great amount of waste. Therefore, we are looking for alternative sources that can replace conventional synthetic materials with various biodegradable ones. The industry is focused on increasing the use of biodegradable yarns, which are less dependent on non-renewable sources, produce lower CO2 emissions and have less impact on our ecosystem. The purpose of this diploma thesis was to investigate permeability and absorbency properties of fabrics with cotton yarn in warp and different yarns in weft (bamboo viscose, PLA, SPF and cotton), and their influence on comfort properties. The tested specimens were woven in four different weaves (plain weave, basket weave, twill 1/3 and twill 2/2). Based on the performed measurements, different yarns in weft and weaves used have a high impact on permeability properties. The fabrics with bamboo viscose have the highest and the fabrics with SPF have the lowest air permeability. The fabrics woven in basket weave have the highest and the fabrics in plain weave have the lowest air permeability. The fabrics made from cotton have the highest and the fabrics with PLA have the lowest thermal conductivity. The fabrics woven in twill 2/2 have the highest and the fabrics in plain weave have the lowest thermal conductivity. Permeability properties are also influenced by other parameters, such as the number and size of pores and the porosity of fabrics. Absorbency is greatly influenced by the material used, as the capillary rise measurements in weft direction vary considerably. The fabrics with SPF have the highest and the fabrics made from cotton have the lowest capillary rise in weft direction. The most absorbent fabrics are made in basket weave, followed by twill weaves, whereas plain weave has the lowest absorbency. According to the measurement results, the fabrics with bamboo yarn in weft are very air permeable and thermally conductive, the fabrics with PLA yarn have poor thermal conductivity and are more insulating, the fabrics with SPF yarn in weft have poor air permeability and good heat conductivity. They also absorb a lot of water.

Oblikovanje zahtevnih konstrukcij tkanin je s pomočjo CAD sistemov veliko bolj enostavno, kot je bilo včasih. CAD sistemi nam pomagajo pri oblikovanju, načrtovanju, vzorčenju tkanin. CAD sistemi podpirajo računalniško oblikovanje vzorcev, medtem ko CAM sistemi računalniško podpirajo proizvodnjo. CAD sistemi so že tako napredovali, da omogočajo tako 2D kot tudi 3D simulacije tkanin. Poleg tega pa je sama vizualna predstavitev zelo enostavna tudi s pomočjo virtualnih katalogov in 3D predstavitev na konkretnih predmetih, oblačilih in tekstilni notranji opremi. Namen diplomskega dela je prenesti že obstoječe zahtevnejše tkanine v računalniški program za simulacijo tkanin, izdelati simulacije in simulacije tkanine predstaviti na oblazinjenem sedežnem pohištvu. V diplomski nalogi smo izbrali štiri tkanine različne konstrukcije, ena z enim sistemov osnove in votka, eno dvojno tkanino in dve večvotkovni tkanini. Tkaninam smo s pomočjo dekompozicije določili konstrukcijske parametre, izmerili smo barve prej osnove in votka ter izdelali simulacije tkanin s pomočjo CAD sistema Arahne. Izbrane tkanine so bile žakarske, zato smo raporte vzorcev s pomočjo skeniranja prenesli v programa Adobe Illustrator in Adobe Photoshop, kjer smo izrisali slikovno predlogo. Slikovno predlogo smo nato obdelali v ArahPaint programu, da je bila primerna za izdelavo simulacije v ArahWeave programu. Primerjali smo simulacijo ter tkanino. Izdelali smo tudi različne barvne različice simulacij tkanin. V programu ArahDrape smo izdelane simulacije predstavili na oblazinjenem pohištvu. Tkaninam smo izmerili mehanske lastnosti, (pretržno silo in pretržni raztezek, odpornost proti drgnjenju) ter zračno prepustnost. Za tekstilije za oblazinjeno pohištvo je pomembno, kakšne so njihove mehanske lastnosti in odpornost proti drgnjenju, saj so pri uporabi ves čas izpostavljene obremenitvam. Ugotovili smo, da imajo tkanine s flotirajočimi nitmi slabše mehanske lastnosti in so zato neprimerne za uporabo na oblazinjenem pohištvu. Designing complex woven structures is much easier by the means of CAD systems than it used to be. CAD systems help us design, plan and sample fabrics. CAD systems support computer designing of samples whereas CAM systems support computer manufacturing. CAD systems have made such progress that they enable 2D as well as 3D fabrics simulation. In addition, the visual presentation itself is very simple also through virtual catalogues and 3D presentations on real objects, clothing and textile interior equipment. The purpose of the diploma thesis is to transfer the already existing complex woven fabrics into a computer program for simulation of woven fabrics, to make simulations as well as to present the simulations of woven fabrics on upholstery. For the diploma thesis four woven fabrics of various constructions were selected, namely one with one system of a warp and a weft, one double woven fabric and two multi-layered woven fabrics. By the means of decomposition, constructional parameters of the fabrics were determined, the colours of the warp and weft threads were measured, and realistic simulations of the fabrics using the CAD program Arahne were made. The selected fabrics were jacquards fabrics, this is why the scanned and downloaded reports were processed in Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop where an image template was created. The image template was then processed in the ArahPaint program so that it was suitable for making a simulation in the ArahWeave program. Finally, we made a comparison of the simulation and the woven fabric. Moreover, various colour versions of the woven fabric simulations were made. We presented the simulations of the woven fabrics, created in in ArahDrape program, on the upholstered furniture. Mechanical properties (breaking force and breaking elongation, abrasion resistance) and air permeability of the woven fabrics were measured. Due to the loads during the constant use of the textiles on the upholstery, it is important to know their mechanical properties and abrasion resistance. It was found out that woven fabrics with flotation threads have worse mechanical properties and are therefore inappropriate for the use on upholstery.

Namen magistrskega dela je bil s konservatorsko-restavratorskimi posegi ohraniti počivalnik Gondola, ki ga je oblikoval Oskar Kogoj, ga konstrukcijsko stabilizirati in estetsko izboljšati njegov videz. V ta namen je bilo s počivalnika odvzetih sedem vzorcev in analiziranih z optičnim mikroskopom, vrstičnim elektronskim mikroskopom ter infrardečim spektroskopom. Tako so bili ugotovljeni materiali, kateri sestavljajo počivalnik in katere uporabiti pri restavratorsko-konservatorskih posegih na počivalniku. Glede na to, da je bil vrhnji material počivalnika (ovčje krzno) zelo uničen, se je novo ovčje krzno osvetljevalo v komori Xenotest alpha s stopnjevanjem časovne izpostavitve ultravijoličnim žarkom po 72 ur, 14 ur in 216 ur. Ugotovljeno je bilo, kako ksenonska svetloba spektra od 300 do 400 nm, vpliva na fizikalno-mehanske lastnosti materiala ter ali izpostavljenost ultravijoličnim žarkom res tako uniči krzno na počivalniku. Po osvetljevanju so bili vzorci krzna izpostavljeni mehanskim obremenitvam to sta drgnjenje na aparatu Martindale in merjenje pretržnih lastnosti na dinamometru Instron. S primerjavo osvetljenih vzorcev krzna z neosvetljenimi, je bilo ugotovljeno, da izpostavitev krzna ultravijoličnim žarkom poslabša njegove fizikalno-mehanske lastnosti. Osvetljenim in neosvetljenim vzorcem krzna so bile izmerjene barvne vrednosti ter izračunane barvne razlike po barvnem sistemu CIELAB. Rezultati so pokazali, da se z daljšim časom osvetljevanja licne (vrhnje) strani krzna, barva krzna spreminja. Glede na obseg poškodb počivalnika so bili določeni konservatorsko-restavratorski posegi. Osredotočenost je bila predvsem na čiščenju počivalnika in restavriranju najbolj uničenih mest na njem, in sicer raztrgani spodnji tkanini počivalnika ter krpanju raztrganine na naslonjalu za roke. Celoten restavratorski poseg je s fotografijami izvedenih del dokumentiran in priložen magistrskemu delu. The purpose of this master thesis was to conserve the lounge chair Gondola designed by Oskar Kogoj. With conservation-restoration interventions we wanted to stabilize the lounge chair and aesthetically improve its appearance. Seven samples were taken from the lounge chair and analysed by scanning with an optical microscope, a linear electronic microscope and infrared spectroscope. After making those reviews, we were able to determine exactly which materials were used on lounge chair developing. We precisely determined which procedures to use in conservation-restoration interventions on the lounge chair. Considering that the lounge chair's top material (sheep fur) was severely damaged, we illuminated new samples of sheep fur in the Xenotest alpha chamber by increasing the exposure time to ultraviolet rays (72 h, 144 h and 216 h). We discovered how xenon light with range from 300 to 400 nm, affects the physic - mechanical properties of the material and whether the exposure to ultraviolet rays is really responsible for the destruction of lounge chair’s fur. After illumination, we exposed fur samples to various methods of mechanical stress. Those methods were rubbing the sheep fur on the Martindale apparatus and measuring its tearing properties on the Instron dynamometer. Illuminated fur samples were compared with non-illuminated ones and found that the exposure of fur to ultraviolet rays exacerbate its physical-mechanical properties. We measured colour values and calculated colour differences according to the CIELAB colour system on illuminated and non-illuminated samples of sheep fur. We found that colour of the top layer of fur samples varies with increased exposure to time of illumination. According to the damages on the lounge chair we determined the conservator-restoration interventions. We focused mainly on cleaning the lounge chair and restoring the most damaged places of the lounge chair, such as the torn lower fabric and lacerations on the armrest. The complete restoration work is documented with photographs in the enclosed annex of the master thesis.

Bambus na Kitajskem že več tisočletij velja za bogat naravni vir, ki je uporaben v različnih industrijskih panogah. Njegova največja prednost je biorazgradljivost, hitra in gosta rast, možnost naravne predelave ter neuporaba pesticidov in herbicidov. V zadnjem desetletju uporaba bambusovih vlaken, tako naravnih kot tudi viskoznih, strmo narašča. Bambusovi izdelki imajo mnogo dobrih lastnosti kot so: nizka cena, trpežnost, prijaznost za okolje, možnost beljenja in barvanja, velika vpojnost, prijeten otip, poroznost, zračna prepustnost, antibakterijski učinek in UV zaščita. Regenerirana bambusova vlakna se največ uporabljajo za spodnje perilo, športna oblačila, majice in nogavice, zaradi UV zaščite so zaželena tudi pri poletnih oblačilih, pogosto se uporabljajo tudi za brisače,... Zaradi protibakterijskih lastnosti je primeren tudi za higienske izdelke in sanitetni material. Namen diplomskega dela je bil ugotoviti kako se prepustnostne lastnosti tkanin z mešanico preje iz liocelnih in naravnih bambusovih vlaken v votku razlikujejo od bombažnih tkanin. Tkanine so bile stkane v treh različnih gostotah (v osnovi je bila gostota v vseh tkaninah enaka 20 niti/cm, gostota votka je bila 15, 20 in 25 niti/cm) in treh različnih vezavah (platno, obojestranski štirivezni keper (K2/2) in votkovni štirivezni keper (K1/3)). Rezultati so pokazali, da imajo tkanine z liocel/bambusovo prejo v votku večjo zračno prepustnost za približno 15 % in približno 8 % večjo prepustnost vodne pare, v primerjavi z bombažnimi tkaninami. Prav tako imajo zračno prepustnost in prepustnost vodne pare, za malenkost večjo tkanine stkane v vezavi K1/3, zaradi bolj porozne strukture in razporeditve por. Za 5 % boljšo toplotno prevodnost pa imajo bombažne tkanine. Tkanine stkane v platno vezavi, imajo tudi boljšo toplotno prevodnost v primerjavi z ostalima vezavama. Ugotovili smo, da na prepustnostne lastnosti poleg uporabljenega materiala v votku vplivajo tudi konstrukcijski parametri, kot sta gostota tkanin in vezava. Na zračno prepustnost in prepustnost vodne pare vplivajo odprta površina tkanin, poroznost in hidravlični premer por ter število por, medtem ko je toplotna prevodnost obratno sorazmerna z odprto površino. Večja kot je odprta površina tkanine, poroznost in hidravlični premer por, večja je zračna prepustnost in prepustnost vodne pare, manjše pa je število por. Za toplotno prevodnost velja obratno sorazmerje z odprto površino. In China, for thousands of years Bamboo is considered as a rich natural resource which is useful in many different industries. Its greatest advantage is biodegradability, quick and dense growth, the possibility of natural processing and also non-use of pesticides and herbicides. In the last decade, the use of bamboo fibers, both natural and regenerated bamboo fibers, has been steadily increasing. Products made of bamboo have a lot of good properties, such as low price, durability, high absorption, pleasent touch, porosity, air permeability, antibactirial properties and UV protection. They are also environmental friendly and have ability of bleaching and dyeing. Regenerated bamboo fibers are mostly used for underwear, sportswear, t-shirts and socks, but because of UV protection, they are also desirable for towels and summer clothes. Due to its antibacterial properties, bamboo is suitable for hygiene products and medical supplies. The purpose of the diploma work was to determine how the permeability properties of fabrics with a mixture of fibres from lyocell and natural bamboo fibers in weft differ from cotton fabrics. Fabrics were woven in three different densities (basically, the density in all fabrics was 20 threads/cm, the weft density was 15, 20 and 25 threads/cm) and in three different weaves (plain weave, twill 2/2 (K2/2) and twill 1/3 (K1/3)). The results showed that woven fabrics with lyocell/bamboo yarn in weft have biger air permeability by approximately 15 % and about 8 % more water vapor permeability. Fabric woven in the twill 1/3 also have slightly higher air permeability and water vapor permeabilitiy, due to the more porous structure and the distribution of the pores. Cotton fabrics have 5 % better thermal conductivity. Woven fabrics made in plain weave also have better thermal conductivity in comparison with other two weaves. We have determined that the permeability properties in addition to the material used in the weft are influenced by the construction parameters such as the density of fabrics and weave. The air permeability and water vapor permeability is influenced by the open area of fabrics, porosity and hydraulic diameter of pore and the number of pores, while thermal conductivity is inversely proportional to the open area of woven fabrics. The number of pores are smaller, where there are the greater open area of the fabric, the porosity and the hydraulic diameter of the pores, greater air permeability and the water vapor permeability. For thermal conductivity, the opposite is proportional to the open area.