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Numerous studies have demonstrated that significant global changes in wave and storm surge conditions have occurred over recent decades and are expected to continue out to at least 2100. This raises the question of whether the observed and projected changes in waves and storm surges will impact coastlines in the future. Previous global-scale analyses of these issues have been inconclusive. This study investigates the south-east coast of Australia over a period of 26 years (1988–2013). Over this period, this area has experienced some of the largest changes in wave climate of any coastal region globally. The analysis uses high-resolution hindcast data of waves and storm surge together with satellite observations of shoreline change. All datasets have been previously extensively validated against in situ measurements. The data are analysed to determine trends in each of these quantities over this period. The coastline is partitioned into regions and spatial consistency between trends in each of the quantities investigated. The results show that beaches along this region appear to have responded to the increases in wave energy flux and changes in wave direction. This has enhanced non-equilibrium longshore drift. Long sections of the coastline show small but measurable recession before sediment transported along the coast is intercepted by prominent headlands. The recession is largest where there are strong trends in increasing wave energy flux and/or changes in wave direction, with recession rates of up to 1 myr-1. Although this is a regional study, this finding has global implications for shoreline stability in a changing climate. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Accurate measurements of ocean waves underpin efficient offshore operations and optimal offshore structure design, helping to ensure the offshore industry can operate both safely and economically. Popular instruments used by the offshore industry are the Rosemount WaveRadar (Radar) and the Waverider Buoy. The Optech Laser has been used at some locations for specific studies. Recent reports indicate systematic differences of order 10% among the wave measurements made by these instruments. This paper examines the relative performance of these instruments based upon various time-domain comparisons, including results from a quality control (QC) procedure, capabilities of measuring the wave surface profile (skewness), and crest heights for varying wind sea and swell conditions. The QC check provides good-quality data that can be further investigated with an assurance of error-free data, suggesting that the Waverider produces the bestquality data with the lowest failure rate compared to the Laser and Radar. A significant number of theWaverider surface elevation records have negative skewness, particularly at higher sea states, affecting its crest height measurements, which are lower than those from the Laser and Radar. Additionally, the significant wave height (H1/3) estimates of the Radar are lower than the Laser and Waverider, but its zero-crossing wave periods (TZ), on average, are longer than the Laser and theWaverider. The significant heights (H1/3) of Laser and Waverider are in good agreement for all three datasets, but the Waverider's zero-crossing wave period (TZ) estimates are significantly longer than the Laser. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Accurate ocean wave measurements are needed for the safe design and operation of offshore facilities, but despite many ocean wave measurements, the accuracy of wave measurement systems remains an ongoing issue. Of paramount importance are measurements during extreme sea states. This paper examines wave measurements made with an Optech Laser (Laser), a Rosemount WaveRadar (Radar), and a Datawell Waverider buoy at North Rankin A (NRA) platform, Australia; Ekofisk, North Sea; and several South China Sea locations. We evaluate the relative performance of these instruments based upon various frequency domain comparisons, including comparisons of their 1D frequency spectra using spectrograms, spectral moments, high-frequency tail slopes, and significant wave heights derived from their wave spectra. A spectral relationship (transfer function) in terms of mean spectral ratio of the instruments is developed, which can be used for spectral calibration. On average, Laser and Waverider spectral estimates agree well at all sea states. However, at low wind speeds, the higher-frequency spectral levels of the Laser are relatively high and noisy compared with the other two instruments. Radar higher-frequency spectral estimates are relatively low compared to the other two instruments, particularly at lower sea states. In addition, the higher-frequency tail slopes of all three instruments vary between f−4 and f−5. However, at higher sea states, the Waverider tail slopes become steeper than f−5. The Radar produces the lowest significant wave heights (Hm0) compared to the Laser and Waverider, but its second-moment period (Tm02) estimates are longer than the Laser and Waverider. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]