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The influence of size, particle concentration and applied dose (finite vs. infinite dose) on the dermal penetration efficacy of curcumin was investigated in this study. For this, curcumin suspensions with different particle sizes (approx. 20 µm and approx. 250 nm) were produced in different concentrations (0.625–5% (w/w)). The dermal penetration efficacy was determined semi-quantitatively on the ex vivo porcine ear model. The results demonstrated that the presence of particles increases the dermal penetration efficacy of the active compounds being dissolved in the water phase of the formulation. The reason for this is the formation of an aqueous meniscus that develops between particles and skin due to the partial evaporation of water from the vehicle after topical application. The aqueous meniscus contains dissolved active ingredients, and therefore creates a small local spot with a locally high concentration gradient that leads to improved dermal penetration. The increase in penetration efficacy depends on the number of particles in the vehicle, i.e., higher numbers of particles and longer contact times lead to higher penetration efficacy. Therefore, nanocrystals with a high particle concentration were found to be the most suitable formulation principle for efficient and deep dermal penetration of poorly water-soluble active ingredients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Antioxidants can reduce free radical formation in deeper skin layers where typical sunscreen filters may no longer be effective. Here, a general method is presented to pre-select optimum combinations of antioxidants and physical filters. The radical production of selected common physical filters after UV irradiation, the capacity of different antioxidants and the interaction between these compounds was investigated in solution by optical measurement of DPPH scavenging, allowing a theoretical calculation of the antioxidant amount necessary to scavenge UV-induced radicals. Furthermore, the antioxidant capacity and the scattering properties were determined. All physical filters induced different amounts of radicals in suspensions depending on the coating. ZnO coated with polydimethylsiloxane and myristic acid (ZnOpolymyr) showed the lowest radical formation. Epigallocatechin-gallate (EGCG) provided the highest antioxidant capacity. Different formulations with different ratios of selected physical filters and antioxidants were prepared. It turned out that the high radical protection factor (RPF) of cream formulations, which originally did not contain any physical filters, was reduced when such filters were added. The data demonstrates that the addition of physical filters to antioxidant-containing formulations lowers their reduction capacity, but to varying degrees. An optimal combination of physical filters and antioxidants must be pre-selected in order to incorporate them into a formulation and verify their effect on skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]