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Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ Wave reflection from natural beaches is discussed and computed for two sites on the Atlantic Coast of the United States. Data for computational purposes consist of near-bottom mounted pressure sensor measurements and coincident electromagnetic current meter orthogonal velocities. The procedure used for computation of wave reflection utilizes a signal separation approach consistent with linear theory. Results of analysis show low wave reflection for the cases considered.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ An investigation of monthly average lake levels is provided to enable the predictive portion of the lake level signal to be separated from random noise residual. Various empirical linear models are proposed and compared in a predictive mode to a portion of the historical record not used in the model parameter estimation. Models utilized for prediction, and hence simulation, assume a deterministic seasonal cycle as well as a longer term lake level pseudocycle consisting of correlated random noise. Residual analysis is performed to enable the models to be utilized in a simulation mode. The models developed are shown to provide satisfactory results for use in simulating future scenarios of the longer term lake level cycles and pseudocycles to drive shoreline erosion models.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ Periodic wave runup data on smooth structure slopes are reanalyzed in a unified format that allows maximum relative runup to be estimated for coastal structures with slopes ranging from mild to steep. A method to predict the limiting wave relative runup is proposed. The method has essentially two elements, a modified surf parameter that allows consideration of steep structure slopes and a limiting value of relative runup that provides a logical envelope for the runup of nonbreaking waves. Considerable data are shown in a unified format that gives a clear idea of the predictive ability of the method.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ A methodology for simulating nonstationary, non-Gaussian water levels on the Great Lakes is presented for use in providing input scenarios for erosion modeling on the Great Lakes. The methodology utilizes a low pass filtering technique to reduce the data to a stationary time series after which the data is transformed to a Gaussian series via use of the empirical distribution function coupled with a specialized tail fitting procedure for the extreme values in the data. The reduced series can then be resimulated in. the frequency or time domain. The present series is resimulated in the frequency domain via a target spectrum, the spectrum of the reduced series. Inverse procedures are then utilized to simulate the original series. Comparisons of statistical and time series properties of the original and simulated series are made for a number of sites on the Great Lakes and it is found that the methodology provides a reasonable simulation for the original data.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ The Coastal Engineering Research Center of the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station was requested by the US Army Engineer District, Alaska, in May 1984 to provide technical assistance in identifying the cause of coastal erosion along the Homer Spit on lower Cook Inlet, Alaska, and to recommend potential long-term means of erosion control. The limited wind and wave data available for the region were subsequently collected and statistically analyzed. Deepwater wave forecasts were performed based on the wind statistics. A finite difference numerical model of the nearshore areas of the Homer spit and adjacent beaches at low tide was applied to predict refraction, diffraction and shoaling of the forecast deepwater waves. The model was also applied to predict breaker characteristics, expected longshore energy flux, and sediment transport rates at low tide.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ This report presents a method for estimating the net flow through the gaps of off shore segmented breakwaters caused by waveovertopping of the breakwaters. The method was developed so that either monochromatic or irregular waves can be specified. Example problems illustrate the effects of wave height and period, breakwater freeboard, spacing between breakwaters, and shore attachment on the flow rate. Computations may be done manually or by using the computer program, BWFLOW2, available from the Corps of Engineers Computer Library, U. S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Mississippi.

Seawall design on the open coast is an often overlooked problem inthe State of Florida as well as other areas of the South Atlantic and GulfCoasts. Escoffier [1] mentions numerous seawall failures and improperdesign considerations along the Mississippi Gulf Coast which were exposedby hurricanes after the seawalls were built. It is hoped that this bulletin, along with Reference 3, will provide agood starting place for those involved in technical design and constructionsupervision aspects of seawalls.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ This report provides a number of calculator programs useful in performing coastal engineering calculations, primarily in the areas of wave transformation and wave generation. Six programs are included for use with the HP41CV hand-held calculators which employ the Reverse Polish Notation (RPN). These programs can be used to compute linear wave parameters, orbital velocities, breaking wave height and direction, shallow-water wave forecasts, depth-limited breaking wave height, and wave transmission past a vertical barrier.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ This is the fourth in a series of reports providing handheld calculator algorithms for use in coastal engineering. The first and second reports in this series were published as Coastal Engineering Technical Aids (CETA’s) and are available from the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station Technical Report Distribution Center, Vicksburg, Miss. Of these, CETA 82- 1 presents a set of six algorithms for programs useful in per forming certain wave transformation and wave generation calculations with both the Texas Instruments TI-59 (Algebraic Operating System (AOS) notation) and the Hewlett-Packard HP-67 (Reverse Polish Notation (RPN)); CETA 82-4 presents the same six algorithms for use on the HP-41CV (RPN). The third report, Miscellaneous Paper CERC-83- 9, Report 3, provides calculator algorithms for use with the HP-41CV that forecast gravity water waves in deep and shallow water. The present report provides algorithms for three calculator programs intended for use with the HP-41CV. The first program computes the breaking wave forces on and moments about the base of vertical face structures using the Minikin method. The second program computes the non-breaking wave force and overturning moment at the base of vertical face structures using both the Miche-Rundgren and Sainflou equations. The last program computes the pressure distribution corresponding to the Miche-Rundgren and/or Sainflou solutions. The reference to these programs is the Shore Protection Manual (US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1984).

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ A computational technique is presented for the longshore energy flux factor; P~ , using current observations from the Littoral Environment Observation (LEO) program. Chapter 4 of the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) gives various equations for P~s as a function of wave height, wave period, and breaking wave angle. The present report details how P~s can be calculated using longshore current and breaking wave height data only. An example problem is given for this method. Note: The symbol ~ is used to indicate a scientific symbol the character set of this program could not render. The pdf file will have the missing symbol.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ This is the third in a series of reports providing handheld calculator algorithms for use in coastal engineering. The first and second reports in this ser1es were published as Coastal Engineering Technical Aids (CETA's) and are available from the U. S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station Technical Report Distribution Center, Vicksburg, Miss. Of these, CETA 82-1 presents a set of six algorithms for programs useful in performing certain wave transformation and wave generation calculations with both the Texas Instruments TI-59 (Algebraic Operating System (AOS) notation) and the Hewlett-Packard HP-67 (Reverse Polish Notation (RPN)); CETA 82-4 presents the same six algorithms for use on the HP-41CV (RPN). The present report provides algorithms for three calculator programs that forecast gravity water waves in deep and shallow water. Two programs use the Joint North Sea Wave Project(JONSWAP) shallow- and deepwater wave forecasting equations as presented in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Shore Protection Manual (revised edition to be published in 1984). The third program uses equations to predict a depth-limited significant wave height. The programs are intended for use with the HP-41CV.

Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ This report provides algorithms for a number of calculator programs useful in performing coastal engineering calculations, primarily in the area of wave transformations and wave generation. Six programs are included with different versions for use with hand-held calculators which employ either the Reverse Polish Notation (RPN) or the Algebraic Operating System (AOS). These programs can be used to compute linear wave parameters, orbital velocities, breaking wave height and direction, shallow-water wave forecasts, depth-limited breaking wave height, and wave transmission past a vertical barrier.