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The article offers information on CONTEXTILE 2022, often regarded as the "Venice Biennale for textile artists," and begins with an introduction to Guimarães, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Northern Portugal. Topics include the city's historical significance as the birthplace of Portuguese nationality and its industrialized textile history.

The article offers information on the 20th Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand (CTANZ) symposium, held in Ōamaru in 2023, with the theme "Traditions: observance or departure." Topics include the symposium's shift from the initially planned date due to COVID-19; the choice of Ōamaru as the host location; and the diverse range of presentations during the event.

The article offers information on Margery Blackman's decision to donate her textile collection to Tūhura Otago Museum in 2020. Topics include Margery's background and creative experiences; her collection's focus on works from West Asia and Indonesia; and the composition of the Margery Blackman Textile Collection (MBTC), which features over sixty pieces.

This article explores the role of the Drawing School for Women (Tegneskolen for Kvinder) in the development of textile research as a field of knowledge, as well as its contribution to women’s education and social status in Denmark. Through an examination of the lives and work of early textile researchers associated with the Drawing School for Women, the article first considers the emancipatory potential of knowledge in relation to the professionalization of textile crafts. It then sheds light on the ideals and potentials expressed by the advocates of textile research – as well as how, and to what extent, these were realised. Specifically, it suggests a close relationship between textile research, women’s emancipation, and Danish nationalism. It concludes that the proponents of textile research were successful in making women’s textile craft – and the study of it – a matter of national pride and interest, furthering the opportunities for women in the field.

This study elaborates on the effects of matrix rigidity on the high-velocity impact behaviour of UHMWPE textile composites using experimental and numerical methods. Textile composite samples were manufactured of a plain-weave fabric (comprising Spectra® 1000 fibres) and four different matrix materials. High-velocity impact tests were conducted by launching a spherical steel projectile to strike on the prepared samples via a gas gun. The experimental results showed that the textile composites gradually changed from a membrane stretching mode to a plate bending mode as the matrix rigidity and thickness increased. The composites deformed in the membrane stretching mode had higher impact resistance and energy absorption capacity, and it was found that the average energy absorption per ply was much higher in this mode, although the number of broken yarns was smaller in the perforated samples. Moreover, the flexible matrix composites always had higher perforation resistance but larger deformation than the rigid matrix counterparts in the tested thickness and velocity range. A novel numerical modelling approach with enhanced computational efficiency was proposed to simulate textile composites in mesoscale resolution. The simulation results revealed that stress and strain development in the more rigid matrix composite was localised in the vicinity of the impact location, leading to larger local deformation and inferior perforation resistance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article presents a practice-based doctoral research focusing on a generative digital design process for jacquard weave design, reanimating historical pattern archives. Topics include the fusion of traditional and contemporary design, the application of generative design in textile research, and the integration of archive material into contemporary textile production through generative programming.

The article discusses the establishment and evolution of the Textile Research Centre (TRC) in Leiden since its founding in 1991, highlighting its focus on collecting textiles and garments from diverse cultures and periods. Topics include the TRC's emphasis on textile techniques and technology, dress and identity, as well as its engagement in exhibitions, publications, and educational initiatives.

As the spread of Covid-19 has created a fatal threat to human survival, a comfortable and virus-deactivated functional face mask is extremely necessary. Herein, an appropriate thermally comfortable and highly breathable as well as virus-protecting functional knit fabric face mask was developed that consisted of multichannel PE Coolmax® yarn with cotton yarn. Due to the multichannel structure (four and six channels) of PE Coolmax® yarn with cotton yarn blended fabric, the fiber showed good filtration efficiency, air permeability, water vapour permeability and moisture management properties. In addition, the thermal conductivity and absorptive properties of the blended fabric based on the properties of PE Coolmax® yarn with cotton yarn make the face mask more comfortable for the user. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To further optimise the bullet-proof performance of textile reinforced composites, multi-directional friction tests of aramid and ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) yarns were carried out by the slope method. The influence of the included angle between the high-performance yarns on the static friction coefficient for aramid and UHMWPE yarns was studied by measuring the friction coefficient. The relationship between the static friction coefficient and the included angle among the high-performance yarns was discussed. The results showed that the friction coefficient of aramid yarns was higher than that of UHMWPE yarns. Especially, at the same included angle between high-performance yarns, the static frictional coefficient of aramid yarns is 50% higher than that of UHMWPE yarns. In accordance with expectations, the static friction coefficient decreases with the increased included angle between high-performance yarns, and the included angle of high-performance yarns changes from 0° to 90°. The trend of rapid decline appeared when the included angle between high-performance yarns changed from 0° to 15°. For the actual result, the static friction coefficient of aramid and UHMWPE yarns is less than 0.3, which needs to be improved to increase the bullet-proof performance of textile composites. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Textile research is being driven to find sustainable materials as an alternative to raw fibers. In fact, reusing fibrous waste, as a byproduct, is one of the most important environmental challenges that confront the world. This research focused on studying pulled wool fibers as a natural fiber to reduce environmental loading. There are large amounts of residual pulled wool fibers that can be recycled and valorised. Therefore, raw and pulled wool fibers were characterized and compared. Scanning Electron Micrographs (SEM) results show that on the pulled wool fiber, the surface became rougher and the scales appear affected and less dense. Based on the X-ray diffraction (XRD) results, the crystallinity of the pulled fiber decreased lightly. Attenuated Total Reflectance-Fourier Transform Infra Red (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy analyzes presented some changes in chemical composition. A High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) test showed an increase in the amount of cystic acids. The pulled wool fiber indicates that it might have damaged some crosslinks of macromolecular chains in the fiber. Thus, physical, chemical and mechanical properties are affected during the chemical unhairing process. This research purpose was to increase the potential for better value of pulled wool as it presents the natural fiber most used in several applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ancient Chinese embroidery is an important intangible part of the cultural heritage of mankind. Its colours and contours are a major source of oriental inspiration and design elements for designers today. This study presents an effective intelligent recognition of colour and contour based on K-means++ clustering and the Canny operator for colour and contour application of ancient Chinese embroidery images and for digital inheritance and innovation. First, digital cameras and portable scanners were used in embroidery image acquisition. Second, colour level adjustment, sharpening and smoothing were specially added to the preprocessing, because of the ancient embroidery age or colour errors caused by the shooting angle. Third, K-means++ clustering was used for colour clustering. Fourth, the Canny operator was used for contour detection. After the addition of colour level adjustment and sharpening in the preprocessing, the colours and contours could be acquired accurately and more effectively from embroidery images and be read and edited independently. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article offers information on the recent 21st symposium in Ōamaru, celebrating the efforts of the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand (CTANZ) across Aotearoa. Topics include the welcoming by host Chole Searle and Sue Maclean, members sharing their stories, and a special session on the coronation of King Charles III.

This article briefly presents the history of textile archaeology in Slovakia, the foundations of which were laid out by Karol Pieta. With his scientific curiosity and hunger for the new adventures, Karol Pieta has been crossing the boundaries of his discipline his whole life. The conditions for the preservation of organic materials are generally very unfavourable, which is why they were often overlooked by archaeologists. Interest for textiles first started with remains hidden in tubular anklets dated to the La Tène Period, initially noticed and studied by Karol Pieta. The most unique ones come from Nové Zámky and shed light on an embroidery technique of the Late Iron Age. The majority of prehistoric textiles in Slovakia are dated to the La Tène Period and it is comparable with finds from the Czech Republic and Austria. A find from an unknown location analysed in 2021, can with certainty be assigned to the corpus of La Tène Period textiles. It can be assumed that linen tabbies made of simple z-spun threads were preferred in this period. Textiles were found in different circumstances, usually mineralised on metal artefacts in graves. The primary use of these textiles was for clothing and ritual wrappings. A secondary use is evidenced by textile fillings of bronze hollow anklets. A Celtic female dress was reconstructed based on the position of artefacts found in the graves, as well on the observations of La Tène Period textiles, in particular the Nové Zámky embroidery. It is interesting to see, that textiles were apparently used as a code to reflect social and aesthetic values. In society they played an important role in the definition and expression of social space and of group relations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article briefly presents the history of textile archaeology in Slovakia, the foundations of which were laid out by Karol Pieta. With his scientific curiosity and hunger for the new adventures, Karol Pieta has been crossing the boundaries of his discipline his whole life. The conditions for the preservation of organic materials are generally very unfavourable, which is why they were often overlooked by archaeologists. Interest for textiles first started with remains hidden in tubular anklets dated to the La Tène Period, initially noticed and studied by Karol Pieta. The most unique ones come from Nové Zámky and shed light on an embroidery technique of the Late Iron Age. The majority of prehistoric textiles in Slovakia are dated to the La Tène Period and it is comparable with finds from the Czech Republic and Austria. A find from an unknown location analysed in 2021, can with certainty be assigned to the corpus of La Tène Period textiles. It can be assumed that linen tabbies made of simple z-spun threads were preferred in this period. Textiles were found in different circumstances, usually mineralised on metal artefacts in graves. The primary use of these textiles was for clothing and ritual wrappings. A secondary use is evidenced by textile fillings of bronze hollow anklets. A Celtic female dress was reconstructed based on the position of artefacts found in the graves, as well on the observations of La Tène Period textiles, in particular the Nové Zámky embroidery. It is interesting to see, that textiles were apparently used as a code to reflect social and aesthetic values. In society they played an important role in the definition and expression of social space and of group relations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the present study, I give an overview of textiles and dyes in the 1st century Roman Empire. I review the sources, examine the problems arising during research and also study the importance of textile dyeing concerning the economic and social life in the Roman Empire. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article reports that Sheringham Museum has received funding from the Art Fund to establish the Heritage Gansey Knitting Network (HGKN), to develop a scoping project for gathering research material and developing expertise about unique textile tradition. Topics include museum textile team and the curator's enthusiasm for mapping other relevant collections for a scientific approach to the material; and one-stop centre for sharing information by formalising existing loose networks and groups.

The article informs about the "Holy hands: studies of knitted liturgical gloves" project is funded by a Janet Arnold grant awarded by the Society of Antiquaries in early 2020. It mentions that the report outlines the aims and objectives of the project, reports on the progress of the work and outlines plans. It further informs about Initial research and artefacts are preserved in collections, ecclesiastical treasuries and museums across Europe and in the U.S.

The article offers information on Texel Stocking Project conference, took place in November 2-3 , 2019, in Leiden, Netherlands, which is organized by the Textile Research Centre (TRC) and the Knitting History Forum. Topics include evidence for using a wooden former to shape the stockings from contemporary records of the period in Denmark; and new-to-me emphasis on the social aspect of taking part in a citizen science project, and the notion versus lab experiments benefits for the researcher.

The article informs that Linen twills from the Hallstatt salt mine is a field of textile research enters into a mature stage, previously published textile finds reassessment using updated scientific analytical methods determines the textile history. Topics include dating to the prehistoric period from the Bronze Age salt mines of Hallstatt in Austria in contemporaneous burials excavated in the Tarim Basin of China; and Scanning electron microscope analysis of the textiles in plant fibres.