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In this work, we have studied transmission properties of a photonic crystal-like structure that can be woven into fabrics. An interesting possibility emerges when considering the potential energy savings through suppression of radiation. It is a well-established fact that every object at a finite temperature inherently emits electromagnetic waves. Within the specific context of the human body, radiation takes on a crucial role as a fundamental mechanism governing heat dissipation. Thus, exploring ways to manage or mitigate this radiation could offer innovative approaches to optimize energy consumption and enhance heat regulation. It is well known that a photonic crystal can block electromagnetic energy with a specific frequency that is falling into a photonic bandgap. By using the numerical method called a finite-difference time domain, we have shown that this property of a periodic structure can be used to make textiles to save energy that is used to heat a human body environment. Numerical calculations have shown that by using the proposed photonic crystal structure, 53 % of electromagnetic energy is reflected. Although we mainly focused on textiles, it is worth highlighting that the same fundamental principle can be extended to diverse fields; for example, this structure can be integrated with construction materials and effectively function as a radiation heat insulator. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In Technical Universities in Ghana, the Higher National Diploma (HND) programmes are well‐established higher education programmes for the provision of middle‐level manpower needs of the Country. The programmes are considered industry‐related, offering students the knowledge and skills required for effective performance at work. However, there is very little tracer survey on the polytechnic/technical university graduate on the relevance of the HND Industrial Art Programmes run in the polytechnics/technical universities, apart from a study on exploring the destinations of Higher National Diploma, Graphic Design graduates in the Ghanaian labour market. Therefore, the study sought to conduct a tracer study on the impact of the HND Industrial Art Programme on the Art Sector in Ghana. To carry out the study, the main objective was to assess the effectiveness and the contribution of the HND Industrial Art Programme to employment and job creation in the Art Sector in Ghana. The Concurrent Triangulated Mixed Method research approach was adopted to undertake the research. From the study, the major finding is that the Painting and Decoration (P/D), Ceramics and Leatherwork options all succeeded in creating jobs/empowering graduates to create their own jobs, but that cannot be said with the Textiles option. The findings have implications for TVET training in the country. It is therefore recommended that appropriate steps should be taken in consultation with the Ghana Tertiary Education Council (GTEC) to have a holistic review of the curriculum to make it relevant for the benefit of this ever‐dynamic society. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

While the fabric of soil can significantly influence its behaviour, the effect of varying fabric parameters on the subgrade shear response is still not well understood. This study creates soil specimens with different fabrics which are then captured through X-ray microscopic-computed tomography scanning and quantified by image processing techniques. A comprehensive laboratory investigation is conducted to understand how the soil fabric affects its monotonic and cyclic shear behaviour. The results indicate that the consolidation method creates a more homogeneous fabric with mainly small-to-medium interconnected pores, whereas the compaction technique creates significantly large and mostly inter-aggregate pores with lower connectivity. In this regard, the consolidated specimens exhibit an elastic-perfectly plastic behaviour, while the compacted specimens show strain-hardening transformation during isotropic monotonic shearing. Under anisotropic conditions, the compacted specimens exhibit a greater strain softening response and excess pore pressure than the consolidated specimens because they have a weaker fabric. Furthermore, the compacted specimens show a smaller threshold strain at a lower critical number of cycles due to the collapse of large pores. These current findings prove the decisive role that soil fabric plays in determining the shear response and failure of subgrade soils. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

"A New Deal for Navajo Weaving: Reform and Revival of Diné Textiles" by Jennifer McLerran is a comprehensive exploration of the history and cultural significance of Navajo weaving. The book examines the impact of New Deal programs on Native American arts and crafts during the Great Depression, highlighting the involvement of Navajo weavers. McLerran emphasizes the importance of cultural knowledge and the matrilineal society of the Diné people in preserving and passing down weaving traditions. The book also delves into the complexities of government programs, Euro-American influences, and the challenges faced by Navajo weavers in maintaining their cultural practices. Overall, the book provides valuable insights into the history and evolution of Navajo weaving and its significance within Native American culture. [Extracted from the article]

Remnant fabrics inherited from mid‐ridge play a key role in variations of plate deformation, hydration and seismicity along subduction zones. However, the quantitative relationships between the orientation of these remnant faults, plate bending and seismic activity at subduction zones still remain unclear. Here, we investigated the flexure of the Alaska subducting plate and assessed the relations between plate flexural curvatures, trench–fabric angle and seismicity. The results show that the flexural curvature and seismicity have nearly linear relationships with the trench–fabric angle. We find that remnant faults are more likely to be reactivated by plate bending at low trench–fabric angle region, causing greater plate deformation, hydration, weakening and seismicity. Plate weakening in turn promotes flexural bending curvature, resulting in higher degree of fracture and more earthquakes. However, at the high trench–fabric angle region, it is inclined to form new trench‐parallel bending faults that have smaller bending curvature and less seismicity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Black textile filaments having good mechanical strength and low water absorbency were spun from carboxymethylated cellulose cross-linked with amine functionalized carboxylated carbon nanotubes (afc-CNT). Incorporating 1 wt.% afc-CNT by crosslinking resulted in filaments with increased mechanical strength (tenacity ~ 1.2 cN/dtex) and a lower water absorbency (water absorbency ~ 0.62 g water/g fiber). The fabricated cellulosic textile filaments also demonstrated antibacterial activity and UV protection capability due to incorporation of afc-CNT. Excellent level of color fastness was achieved for the composite textile filaments because of a chemical bond formation between carboxymethylated cellulose and afc-CNT. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dust resuspension from four typical fabrics (cotton, linen, silk, and polyester) exposed to airflow with common velocities within 0–10 m/s, including a moving fabric case and a fixed fabric case, was experimentally studied in this article. A set of empirical correlations, involving air velocity, fabric motion mode, fabric type, and airflow duration was developed to describe and predict the moving fabric case. It was found that a stronger-than-expected resuspension was triggered by short-term accelerating airflow. The resuspension enhancement of over 90% was reported for the moving fabrics compared with the fixed ones. Fabric motion induced by airflow was proposed to account for these resuspension findings. Fabric acceleration was then demonstrated to be a key factor in evaluating the resuspension for such a scenario. This article not only reveals an inconspicuous phenomenon of dust resuspension from fabrics under the impact of airflow and consequent fabric motion, but also provides a theoretical basis for particulate matter assessment and regulation. Copyright © 2024 American Association for Aerosol Research [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fiber batteries are essential for the realization of high‐performance wearable and textile electronics with the desirable features of conventional textiles, including breathability, stretchability, and washability. However, the development of fiber batteries is limited by scalability and performance since most reported fabrication techniques are not compatible with standard battery manufacturing. This work presents a novel method for the scalable fabrication of fiber batteries with a stacked design analogous to that of conventional pouch cells using layer lamination and laser machining. To accomplish this, several poly(vinylidene fluoride‐co‐hexafluoropropylene) (PVDF‐HFP) separators are developed, enabling lamination between conventional battery electrodes using a heated rolling press. The laminated strips are subsequently laser cut to form fibers with widths as narrow as 650–700 µm. These prototypes are successfully cycled in pouch cells and capillary tubes, delivering very high linear energies up to 0.61 mWh cm−1. Custom equipment is designed to demonstrate scalable fiber battery fabrication processing in a roll‐to‐roll fashion. This work marks a paradigm shift in fiber battery research by demonstrating substantial benefits over all previous approaches including optimal active material utilization, low inactive material content, scalability, and compatibility with equipment already used widely in the battery industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The present paper introduces an innovative strain energy function (SEF) for incompressible anisotropic fiber-reinforced materials. This SEF is specifically designed to understand the mechanical behavior of carbon fiber-woven fabric. The considered model combines polyconvex invariants forming an integrity basisin polynomial form, which is inspired by the application of Noether's theorem. A single solution can be obtained during the identification because of the relationship between the SEF we have constructed and the material parameters, which are linearly dependent. The six material parameters were precisely determined through a comparison between the closed-form solutions from our model and the corresponding tensile experimental data with different stretching ratios, with determination coefficients consistently reaching a remarkable value of 0.99. When considering only uniaxial tensile tests, our model can be simplified from a quadratic polynomial to a linear polynomial, thereby reducing the number of material parameters required from six to four, while the fidelity of the model's predictive accuracy remains unaltered. The comparison between the results of numerical calculations and experiments proves the efficiency and accuracy of the method. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Most traditional synthetic dyes and functional reagents used in silk fabrics are not biodegradable and lack green environmental protection. Natural dyes have attracted more and more attention because of their coloring, functionalization effects, and environmental benefits. In this study, natural dyes were extracted from lac and used for coloring and functionalization in silk fabrics without any other harmful dyes. The extraction conditions were studied and analyzed by the univariate method. The optimal extraction process was that the volume ratio of ethanol to water was 60:40 with a solid–liquid ratio of 1:10, and reacting under the neutrality condition for 1 h at 70 °C. Silk fabric can be dyed dark owing to the certain lifting property of lac. After being dyed by Al3+ post-medium, the levels of the washing fastness, light fastness, and friction fastness of silk fabric are all above four with excellent fastness. The results show that the dyed silk fabrics have good UV protection, antioxidation, and antibacterial properties. The UV protection coefficient UPF is 42.68, the antioxidant property is 98.57%, and the antibacterial property can reach more than 80%. Therefore, the dyeing and functionalization of silk fabrics by utilizing naturally lac dyes show broad prospects in terms of the application of green sustainable dyeing and functionalization. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fabric‐reinforced shape memory polymer composites are lightweight, strong, formable, controllable, and suitable for various engineering and innovative applications. This study aims to fabricate and characterize electrothermal dual drive shape memory polymer composite fabrics (SMPCFs) of different densities with three‐dimensional (3D) angle‐interlock structures. The tensile properties, electrothermal properties, recovery forces (both tensile and bending), and shape recovery properties of SMPCFs were evaluated. The SMPCFs exhibited a tensile elongation of over 20% at the transition temperature. SMPCFs can reach transition temperatures when loaded with 2 V. The recovery forces are up to 225 N in tensile recovery force and 3.6 N in bending recovery force. In the shape recovery test, the recovery ratio exceeded 97%. Finally, the demonstration of recovery properties can stimulate the possibilities of SMPCFs in innovation and applications. Highlights: Core‐shell structured composite filaments were prepared.3D angle‐interlock composite fabrics: high strength, electrothermal drive.Tensile recovery force of composite fabrics can be up to 225 N.Elongation at transition temperatures was up to 20%. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fabric defect detection is an important part of the textile industry to ensure product quality. To solve the problems such as the difficulty of detecting small defects and the coexistence of multi-scale defects in fabric defect detection, a fabric defect detection method based on the feature purification fusion structure is proposed in this paper. Specifically, we improve the feature extraction network to enhance the network's ability to focus on small defective features and effectively reduce the model parameters. The existing methods use direct fusion between multi-level feature maps, which will lead to feature confusion. Therefore, we propose the feature purification fusion structure (FPF), which includes the semantic information supplementation strategy (SIS) and the detail information supplementation strategy (DIS). SIS extracts valid information from the deep feature map and supplements it to the shallow feature map, weakening feature information irrelevant to the shallow feature map detection task. DIS adaptively supplements the feature information required by the deep feature map detection task from the shallow feature map. FPF improves the ability of the network to detect small defects and effectively mitigates the aliasing effect generated during feature fusion. The experimental results show that compared to the baseline model YOLOv5s algorithm, our model achieved a 6.8% improvement in detection accuracy, with an average inference frame rate of 37.6 FPS, demonstrating better detection performance in fabric defect detection. Furthermore, extending this model to aluminum profile defect datasets also demonstrates strong performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In addition to water repellency, superhydrophobic leaves of plants such as Salvinia molesta adsorb oil and separate it from water surfaces. This phenomenon has been the inspiration for a new method of oil–water separation, the bionic oil adsorber (BOA). In this paper, we show how the biological effect can be abstracted and transferred to technical textiles, in this case knitted spacer textiles hydrophobized with a layered silicate, oriented at the biology push approach. Subsequently, the transport of the oil within the bio-inspired textile is analyzed by a three-dimensional fluid simulation. This fluid simulation shows that the textile can be optimized by reducing the pile yarn length, increasing the pile yarn spacing, and increasing the pile yarn diameter. For the first time, it has been possible with this simulation to optimize the bio-inspired textile with regard to oil transport with little effort and thus enable the successful implementation of a self-driven and sustainable oil removal method. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the fast-paced fashion world, unique designs are like early birds, grabbing attention as online shopping surges. Fabric texture plays an immense role in selecting the perfect design. Indian Traditional textile motifs are pivotal, showing rich cultural origins and attracting worldwide art fanatics. Yet, technology-driven abstract forms are posing a challenge for them. The decline of handmade artistic ability due to computerization is concerning. Crafting new designs associated with the latest trends is time- consuming and requires diligence. In this work an interactive CBIR (content-based image retrieval) system is presented. It utilizes deep features from InceptionV3 and InceptionResNetV2 models to match query designs with a database of traditional Indian textiles. Its performance is tested with Caltech-101, Corel-1K state-of-the-art datasets, and Indian Textiles datasets and the results are shown to be finer than the existing approaches. The similarity-based fine-grained saliency maps (SBFGSM) approach is employed to visualize the importance of features. Our approach combines deep feature fusion with PCA dimensionality reduction and speeds up search using a clustering approach. Relevance feedback is employed to refine the retrievals. This tool is expected to benefit designers by accelerating the design cycles by bridging the gap between human creativity and A.I. assistance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tailings dams constructed using the upstream method are generally less stable, because of its operational and constructive approach; this presents increased risks, which is the reason why such structures are being closed in Brazil. A feasible option to ensure the safety of closing operations in such dams consists of extracting tailings from behind the dam (reservoir), reducing moisture content through dewatering and compacting it into stable stacks. This demands knowledge of the compacted material's response. Thus, the present research assesses the mechanical response of compacted copper ore tailings extracted from two different sampling locations within the dam reservoir (i.e. about to be de-characterised) from northern Brazil. For this, drained and undrained triaxial compression tests were carried out on compacted dewatered dense, medium and loose specimens, which were assembled using the tailings retrieved from upper and lower beaches to evaluate the influence of grading, as well as the influence of the fabric arising from the initial compaction on the critical state lines (CSLs) of these saturated non-plastic silty sand tailings. The results indicated that the critical state parameters, in the υ–ln p′ space, are dependent on the fabric arising from the initial compaction. Distinct CSLs, which are all curvilinear and parallel to each other, were found in the research. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In recent years, the fashion apparel industry has been increasingly employing virtual simulations for the development of new products. The first step in virtual garment simulation involves identifying the optimal simulation parameters that accurately reproduce the drape properties of the actual fabric. Recent techniques advocate for a data‐driven approach, estimating parameters from outcomes of a Cusick drape test. Such methods deviate from standard Cusick drape tests, introducing high‐cost tools, which reduces practicality. Our research presents a more practical model, utilizing 2D silhouette images from the ISO‐standardized Cusick drape test. Notably, while past models have shown limitations in estimating stretching parameters, our novel approach leverages the fabric's tag information including fabric type and fiber composition. Our proposed model functions as a cascaded system: first, it estimates stretching parameters using tag information, then, in the subsequent step, it considers the estimated stretching parameters alongside the fabric sample's Cusick drape test results to determine bending parameters. We validated our model against existing methods and applied it in practical scenarios, showing promising outcomes. (see https://www.acm.org/publications/class-2012) [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Estimating fabric mechanical properties is crucial to create realistic digital twins. Existing methods typically require testing physical fabric samples with expensive devices or cumbersome capture setups. In this work, we propose a method to estimate fabric mechanics just from known manufacturer metadata such as the fabric family, the density, the composition, and the thickness. Further, to alleviate the need to know the fabric family –which might be ambiguous or unknown for nonspecialists–we propose an end‐to‐end neural method that works with planar images of the textile as input. We evaluate our methods using extensive tests that include the industry standard Cusick and demonstrate that both of them produce drapes that strongly correlate with the ground truth estimates provided by lab equipment. Our method is the first to propose such a simple capture method for mechanical properties outperforming other methods that require testing the fabric in specific setups. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The development of e-textiles necessitates the creation of highly conductive inks that are compatible with precise inkjet printing, which remains a key challenge. This work presents an innovative, syringe-based method to optimize a novel bio-sourced silver ink for inkjet printing on textiles. We investigate the relationships between inks' composition, rheological properties, and printing behavior, ultimately assessing the electrical performance of the fabricated circuits. Using Na–alginate and polyethylene glycol (PEG) as the suspension matrix, we demonstrate their viscosity depends on the component ratios. Rheological control of the silver nanoparticle-laden ink has become paramount for uniform printing on textiles. A specific formulation (3 wt.% AgNPs, 20 wt.% Na–alginate, 40 wt.% PEG, and 40 wt.% solvent) exhibits the optimal rheology, enabling the printing of 0.1 mm thick conductive lines with a low resistivity (8 × 10−3 Ω/cm). Our findings pave the way for designing eco-friendly ink formulations that are suitable for inkjet printing flexible antennas and other electronic circuits onto textiles, opening up exciting possibilities for the next generation of E-textiles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

E-textiles have been the focus of interest in health technology, but little research has been done so far on how they could support persons with complex communication needs. A global estimate is that 97 million people may benefit from Augmentative and Alternative Communication (AAC). Unfortunately, despite the growing body of research, many persons with complex communication needs are left without functional means to communicate. This study aimed to address the lack of research in textile-based AAC and to build a picture of the issues that affect novel textile-based technology development. We arranged a focus group study for altogether 12 speech and language therapists to elicit user scenarios to understand needs, activities, and contexts when implementing a novel, textile-based technology in a user-centred approach. As a result, we present six user scenarios that were created for children to enhance their social interaction in everyday life when using textile-based technology that recognizes touch or detects motion. The persistent availability and the individual design to meet a person's capability along with ease of use and personalization were perceived important requirements. Through these scenarios, we identified technological constraints regarding the development of e-textile technology and its use in the AAC field, such as issues regarding sensors and providing power supply. Resolving the design constraints will lead to a feasible and portable e-textile AAC system. E-textiles are a novel approach to Augmentative and Alternative Communication (AAC) for children with motor dysfunctions and intellectual disabilities. -A portable AAC system implementing e-textiles for children with complex communication needs will enable several activities in daily-life situations. Therefore, further research is needed to resolve the design constraints to reduce the bulkiness of technology embedded in textiles, e.g., looking into the possibilities of passive and battery-free solutions. The developed user scenarios offer a starting point for developing initial prototypes for touch-based and motion-detection systems to enhance social interaction and motivation for persons with complex communication needs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• A hybrid-driven fabric evolution law is proposed to describe the induced anisotropy. • The fabric tensor is properly integrated into the constitutive relations. • A novel anisotropic model for clay and sand is proposed. • The performance of the model is validated under different loading paths. • The model can reasonably describe the anisotropic characteristics of both clay and sand. This paper presents a novel critical state model for both clay and sand considering the inherent and induced anisotropy, named as CASM-h. The CASM-h model is developed based on the well-calibrated CASM model and incorporates the concepts of subloading surface and fabric anisotropy. To describe the induced anisotropy, a hybrid-driven fabric evolution law is proposed, defining fabric evolution as driven jointly by stress and strain rates. Subsequently, the fabric tensor together with its evolution law is appropriately incorporated into constitutive relation by employing the anisotropic transformed stress approach, without introducing additional mechanical mechanisms. The CASM-h model is validated under a series of stress paths, including triaxial tests, simple shear tests, shear tests with fixed principal stress direction as well as principal stress rotation (PSR) tests. The simulation results show that CASM-h model can satisfactorily capture the anisotropic behaviours of both clay and sand, such as the loading direction dependency of strength, non-coaxial behaviour, PSR effects and so on. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study presents the functionalization of silk fabric with SWCNT ink. The first step was the formation of a polydopamine (PDA) thin coating on the silk fabric to allow for effective bonding of SWCNTs. PDA formation was carried out directly on the fabric by means of polymerization of dopamine in alkali conditions. The Silk/PDA fabric was functionalized with SWCNT ink of different SWCNT concentrations by using the dip-coating method. IR and Raman analyses show that the dominant β-sheet structure of silk fibroin after the functionalization process remains unchanged. The heat resistance is even slightly improved. The hydrophobic silk fabric becomes hydrophilic after functionalization due to the influence of PDA and the surfactant in SWCNT ink. The ink significantly changes the electrical properties of the silk fabric, from insulating to conductive. The volume resistance changes by nine orders of magnitude, from 2.4 × 1012 Ω to 2.3 × 103 Ω for 0.12 wt.% of SWCNTs. The surface resistance changes by seven orders of magnitude, from 2.1 × 1012 Ω to 2.4 × 105 Ω for 0.17 wt.% of SWCNTs. The volume and surface resistance thresholds are determined to be about 0.05 wt.% and 0.06 wt.%, respectively. The low value of the percolation threshold indicates efficient functionalization, with high-quality ink facilitating the formation of percolation paths through SWCNTs and the influence of the PDA linker. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As the sustainable fashion movement gains momentum, there is a growing need to introduce such concepts to the next generation of fashion designer. One approach to produce sustainable designs is upcycling, defined as the salvage and reuse of discarded or found items into new products. This study examines a pedagogical approach for engaging 2nd year undergraduate textile and fashion design students in sustainable fashion design practice. Working in groups, students are challenged to upcycle old clothing into a little black dress, using a keyword as direction for concept, design development, and garment construction techniques. To elevate value in post‐consumer textile waste, it is necessary to develop high‐quality contemporary design outcomes. This teaching approach aims to encourage the revaluation of recyclable resources, the exploration of the creative potential of fabric manipulation techniques, experimental design development, and professional production techniques. This is achieved through the implementation of a design brief that establishes original approaches to upcycling, contrary to the arbitrary processes that are typically used. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Badayun pattern composed of circular square and other symmetrical geometric figures originated the ancient concept of "round sky and square earth". The structure of "rice (米 )" in this pattern represents geographical orientation and the pattern contains the "nine palaces and eight diagrams" in traditional Chinese philosophy and culture and it is further developed under the influence of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty. As a model of the geometric patterns of Song brocade the Badayun pattern is deeply loved by the court and nobles because of its colorful pattern images rigorous and clear composition form complex but not chaotic color style and auspicious and healthy meaning and is widely used in painting and calligraphy mounting and brocade dress pattern design. Based on ancient fabric images and ancient literature records this paper sorted out and summarized the changing rules of the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern analyzed the historical causes of the changes explored its deeper cultural implications and drew the three major conclusions. First from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty the evolution law of the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern was mainly reflected in the skeletal framework from being simple to being complex the color conbination from being simple to being gorgeous and the decorative pattern from being single to being multiple. Second from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty the changes in the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern were mainly influenced by a variety of factors such as the awareness of political rights the growth of economic development the development of cultural exchanges and the improvement of brocade skills. The consciousness of political power provided the necessary prerequisite for the spread of patterns the economic development provided the objective conditions for the spread of patterns the cultural exchange phenomenon provided the inspiration for the evolution of patterns and the improvement of brocade skills provided technical support for the performance of patterns. Third from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty the Song brocade Badayun pattern also expressed the ancient people's recognition of rational aesthetic order their desire for the auspiciousness and health and their pursuit of moral cultivation in both explicit and implicit ways. This paper systematically and deeply collects collates and analyzes the evolution law of the Song brocade Badayun pattern analyzes the cause of its evolution and cultural implication which is helpful to the inheritance and development of Song brocade patterns and provides reference for the innovative design of the Badayun pattern. With the change of dynasties and the development of the times the Badayun pattern no longer has the function of highlighting the user's status and conveying the value of honor but its meaning of auspiciousness and beauty and the significance of highlighting moral cultivation continue to this day and it has been loved by people and widely used in modern textile pattern design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

During World War II, clothing and textile shortages led to a culture of reusing and repairing items. The Board of Trade issued "Make Do and Mend" leaflets that provided guidance on how to remake and adapt clothing. Sewing skills were essential for maintaining a wardrobe, and women's magazines emphasized the importance of looking stylish and fashionable. Clothing rationing was introduced, and the Utility Clothing Scheme aimed to provide attractive garments within the restrictions of wartime. People used creative methods to obtain fabric, such as repurposing architectural drawings and utilizing unconventional materials like coffin lining and rabbit fur. The resourcefulness extended to household items as well, with knitted washing up cloths and improvised shoelaces for hair styling. The article discusses the practice of "make do and mend" during World War II, where people repurposed and repaired clothing due to shortages and rationing. Tips and tricks for altering clothes were featured in women's magazines, and individuals were encouraged to learn sewing and repair skills through evening classes and women's organizations. Parachute silk became a popular fabric for making underwear, slips, blouses, and wedding dresses. The practice of recycling and reusing clothing continued even after the war ended. The article emphasizes the importance of sustainability and recycling in the present day. [Extracted from the article]

As part of a long-term campaign to document, study, and conserve the Heroes tapestries from The Cloisters collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, organic colorant analysis of Julius Caesar (accession number 47.101.3) was performed. Analysis with liquid chromatography–quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-qToF-MS) revealed the presence of several multiply chlorinated xanthones produced only by certain species of lichen. Various lichen dye sources have been documented in the literature for centuries and are classified as either ammonia fermentation method (AFM) or boiling water method (BWM) dyes based on their method of production. However, none of these known sources produce the distinctive metabolites present in the tapestry. LC-qToF-MS was also used to compare the chemical composition of the dyes in the tapestry with that of several species of crustose lichen. Lichen metabolites, including thiophanic acid and arthothelin, were definitively identified in the tapestry based on comparison with lichen xanthone standards and a reference of Lecanora sulphurata, confirming the presence of a lichen source. This finding marks the first time that lichen xanthones have been identified in a historic object and the first evidence that BWM lichen dyes may have been used prior to the eighteenth century. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The critical-state theory (CST) serves as the foundation of modern soil mechanics and has gained widespread acceptance for explaining the behavior of granular materials. The classical CST does not address the fabric anisotropy of granular materials, leading to questions about the uniqueness of the critical state when considering such anisotropy. Recently, the development of anisotropic critical-state theory (ACST) highlights that fabric anisotropy of granular materials should reach a unique normalized value at the critical state. However, ACST does not specify which fabric tensor is used to characterize the microstructure of soils. In this study, we present a comprehensive characterization of various soil fabrics, including contact-based fabric tensor, void-based fabric tensor, and particle–void fabric, respectively. We employ three-dimensional clumped particles to approximate different shapes of Toyoura sand particles, which makes the characterization of soil fabric more accurate. Discrete element method simulations of conventional triaxial compression tests under both drained and undrained conditions are conducted on soil samples with different initial confining pressures and void ratios. The evolution of various fabrics toward the critical state is compared and discussed. Moreover, we establish relationships among contact-based fabric, void-based fabric, particle–void fabric, mean effective stress, and void ratio at the critical state. The study provides new insights into understanding the relations between the critical state and the microstructure of granular soils. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, the electrical conductivity of PolyEtherKetoneKetone reinforced with five harness satin weave carbon fabric was measured. Induction heating experiments using a hairpin shaped coil were conducted on the same material. The study points out that the thermal response depends on the direction in which the eddy currents are generated in the laminate. The thermal response showed a linear relation with the measured in-plane anisotropic electrical conductivity, pointing towards Ohmic heating mechanisms being dominant during induction heating of the used material. This relation enables the accurate and efficient simulation of the induction heating of woven fabric reinforced composites, using only the electrical conductivity measured in one of the fabric's weave directions and in the fabric's 45° off-axis direction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Infrared reflective materials are pivotal in reducing bicarbon emission and have emerged as a global research focus. This study presents the preparation of kilogram-scale weakly Tb-doped cerium oxide nanocomposites, utilizing a green synthesis approach combining ball milling and high-temperature calcination. Integrating first-principles calculations with experiments analysis, we demonstrate that Tb doping enhances the band gap of cerium oxide, significantly improving its reflective properties. The resulting terbium-doped cerium oxide nanoparticles have good absorption in the visible range while maintaining excellent IR reflectance in the IR band. The near-infrared solar reflectance reaches 85.54 %. Additionally, we developed CeO 2 :Tb–SiO 2 polyester fabrics using an impregnation method. These fabrics show superior IR infrared barrier efficiency (76.58 %) and a notable reduction in inner-surface temperature compared to standard polyester fabrics. The barrier efficiency is enhanced by 27.59 %, and the temperature difference reaches up to 6.1 °C, underscoring their exceptional thermal insulating properties. Moreover, the fabric exhibits remarkable superhydrophobicity, with a contact angle of 152.1°. This novel heat-reflective, self-cleaning, stable rare-earth nano-insulating coating along with its application in polyester fabrics, paves the way for effective temperature regulation. Its potential applications in fabric stain and sun protection are promising, contributing to energy saving and sustainable development. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Modeling the consolidation of fiber‐reinforced thermoplastic composites at the part level presents a formidable computational challenge due to the multi‐scale nature of the process. In this article, a method to bypass the multi‐scale problem by homogenizing the micro scale and describing the medium with characteristic parameters is described. The model is intended for press molding of hybrid textiles and considers a free‐form plate with non‐uniform thickness and can describe consolidation in three dimensions with some restrictions. 2D implementation in FEM shows how in‐plane matrix pressure gradients can arise in parts and cause fiber disorientation. Experimental verification demonstrates that fiber disorientation arises at the predicted location, and that defect size is proportional to matrix pressure gradient. This novel consolidation model provides new insights, enables part and process optimization, and paves the way for high‐quality composite part production. Highlights: A consolidation model for press molding of hybrid textiles is presented.A method to extend consolidation models for complex geometry is presented.The origin of defect formation in complex geometries is explained. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Textiles can be promising next‐generation wearable thermal management systems by exhibiting tunable infrared emissivity for dual‐mode control of cooling/warming, yet textiles often exhibit constant infrared emission. Herein, a dynamic thermoregulatory textile is woven from scalable‐manufactured radiative electrochromic fibers and is easily driven by a low voltage in a manner that results in a modulated emissivity of Δɛ≈0.35. Through a synergistic combination of the spiral outer electrode and electrochemically tunable carbon nanotube layer, excellent electrochemical controllability of the fibers is achieved over 100‐m length within 5s because of the decreased internal resistance with increasing length. As a result, the thermoregulatory textile suppresses substantial temperature variation and ensures excellent temperature regulation within ≈1.6 °C for simulated skin (much better than that of traditional textiles: ≈2.9 °C) under an ambient temperature fluctuation of 11.2 °C. Finally, wearable infrared camouflage and invisible infrared displays are also demonstrated by weaving or embroidering the radiative electrochromic fibers onto clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The tear strength of textiles is a crucial characteristic of product quality. However, during the laboratory testing of this indicator, factors such as equipment operation, human intervention, and test environment can significantly influence the results. Currently, there is a lack of traceable records for the influencing factors during the testing process, and effective classification of testing activities is not achieved. Therefore, this study proposes a state-awareness and classification approach for fabric tear performance testing based on multi-source data. A systematic design is employed for fabric tear performance testing activities, which can real-time monitor electrical parameters, operational environment, and operator behavior. The data are collected, preprocessed, and a Decision Tree Support Vector Machine (DTSVM) is utilized for classifying various working states, and introducing ten-fold cross-validation to enhance the performance of the classifier, forming a comprehensive awareness of the testing activities. Experimental results demonstrate that the system effectively perceives fabric tear performance testing processes, exhibiting high accuracy in the classification of different fabric testing states, surpassing 98.73%. The widespread application of this system contributes to continuous improvement in the workflow and traceability of fabric tear performance testing processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Every nation treasures its handloom heritage, and in India, the handloom industry safeguards cultural traditions, sustains millions of artisans, and preserves ancient weaving techniques. To protect this legacy, a critical need arises to distinguish genuine handloom products, exemplified by the renowned "gamucha" from India's northeast, from counterfeit powerloom imitations. Our study's objective is to create an AI tool for effortless detection of authentic handloom items amidst a sea of fakes. Six deep learning architectures—VGG16, VGG19, ResNet50, InceptionV3, InceptionResNetV2, and DenseNet201—were trained on annotated image repositories of handloom and powerloom towels (17,484 images in total, with 14,020 for training and 3464 for validation). A novel deep learning model was also proposed. Despite respectable training accuracies, the pre-trained models exhibited lower performance on the validation dataset compared to our novel model. The proposed model outperformed pre-trained models, demonstrating superior validation accuracy, lower validation loss, computational efficiency, and adaptability to the specific classification problem. Notably, the existing models showed challenges in generalizing to unseen data and raised concerns about practical deployment due to computational expenses. This study pioneers a computer-assisted approach for automated differentiation between authentic handwoven "gamucha"s and counterfeit powerloom imitations—a groundbreaking recognition method. The methodology presented not only holds scalability potential and opportunities for accuracy improvement but also suggests broader applications across diverse fabric products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Rock textures observed via thin section are skewed from their true 3D nature. This is due to various cut effects—artifacts introduced due to the lower dimensional nature of the thin section relative to the rock. These cut effects can be corrected, and several methods have been developed to invert crystal shape and crystal size, but with each process performed separately and sequentially. With the ongoing adoption of electron backscatter diffraction (EBSD) by petrologists, an additional data stream has now become available: the 3D orientation of 2D grain sections. For EBSD analysis, no stereological corrections are typically applied for interpreting the data. This study tests whether this orientational information is skewed due to a fabric cut effect. We test this by numerically generating synthetic crystal datasets representative of several crystal shapes and population sizes. We find that EBSD orientational data has a fabric cut effect since crystals oriented with long axes perpendicular to the thin section are more likely to be sampled compared to those with long axes oriented parallel to it. This effect must be accounted for to interpret the true 3D fabric accurately. Towards this end, we develop two new tools for working with EBSD-derived fabric: (1) a simple first-order test for determining if a measured fabric exceeds that of the fabric cut effect, and (2) a method of inverting cut fabrics that provides robust error estimations. We demonstrate the applicability and accuracy of these methods using a range of synthetic examples and a natural sample. With these newly developed tools, there is clear potential for a new textural toolkit framework, to further our ability to correct for the various cut effects while also providing accurate uncertainty estimates. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents research on several factors influencing the stabbing behaviour of stratified panels made of aramid fabric Twaron® SRM509 Teijin Aramid BV (Arnhem, The Netherlands). The inputs in the test campaign were the number of layers, the impact energy, and the sample size. Tests were performed on small samples (130 mm × 130 mm) on an Instron® CEAST 9350 drop-tower impact system (Norwood, MA, USA) and on larger samples (400 mm × 400 mm) using a test installation with the same values of the impact energy. Knife type S1 was used, with the geometry recommended in NIJ Standard 0115.00 Stab Resistance of Body Armor SEM, and macro photography investigations revealed the failure mechanisms of panel, layers and fibres. A very important conclusion of this study regarding the stabbing performance of fabric Twaron® SRM 509 in particular, but also in general for panels for body protection is that a research study could start on small size samples, with an accurately instrumented machine, in order to establish the influence of significant factors of stab resistance (energy level, number of layers in a panel, etc.), as these samples are less expensive and less time consuming, but the study should be continued to examine larger size samples. The obtained data are useful for the prototype. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In healthcare facilities, infections caused by Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) from textile materials are a cause for concern, and nanomaterials are one of the solutions; however, their impact on safety and biocompatibility with the human body must not be neglected. This study aimed to develop a novel multilayer coating with poly(allylamine hydrochloride) (PAH) and immobilized ZnO nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) to make efficient antibacterial and biocompatible cotton, polyester, and nylon textiles. For this purpose, the coated textiles were characterized with profilometry, contact angles, and electrokinetic analyzer measurements. The ZnO NPs on the textiles were analyzed by scanning electron microscopy and inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry. The antibacterial tests were conducted with S. aureus and biocompatibility with immortalized human keratinocyte cells. The results demonstrated successful PAH/ZnO coating formation on the textiles, demonstrating weak hydrophobic properties. Furthermore, PAH multilayers caused complete ZnO NP immobilization on the coated textiles. All coated textiles showed strong growth inhibition (2–3-log reduction) in planktonic and adhered S. aureus cells. The bacterial viability was reduced by more than 99%. Cotton, due to its better ZnO NP adherence, demonstrated a slightly higher antibacterial performance than polyester and nylon. The coating procedure enables the binding of ZnO NPs in an amount (<30 µg cm−2) that, after complete dissolution, is significantly below the concentration causing cytotoxicity (10 µg mL−1). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study the influence of fabric weave (plain, twill, and panama) and weft type (flax and hemp yarns) on selected mechanical and comfort properties of six fabrics was analyzed. The results showed that tear and abrasion properties were most affected by the weave. The tensile properties of the linen fabrics were not significantly different when weft hemp yarns were used instead of flax. Fabrics with the same weave seemed to be equally resilient to abrasion regardless of the type of weft. By contrast, the hemp weft yarns favorized the physical and comfort properties of the investigated fabrics. For the same weave, the hemp–linen fabrics were slightly lighter and exhibited lower bulk density, significantly larger air permeability, and improved moisture management properties. Although the results of maximum thermal flux (Qmax) suggested a cooler sensation of the linen fabrics with panama and twill, the hemp–linen fabric with a plain weave seemed to be the optimal choice when a cool sensation was desired. Higher thermal conductivity values also suggested slightly better heat transfer properties of the hemp–linen fabrics, and these were significantly influenced by the weave type. The results clearly indicated the advantages of using hemp for improving physical and specific comfort properties of linen fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this work, we introduce a collision model specifically tailored for the simulation of inextensible textiles. The model considers friction, contacts, and inextensibility constraints all at the same time without any decoupling. Self-collisions are modeled in a natural way that allows considering the thickness of cloth without introducing unwanted oscillations. The discretization of the equations of motion leads naturally to a sequence of quadratic problems with inequality and equality constraints. In order to solve these problems efficiently, we develop a novel active-set algorithm that takes into account past active constraints to accelerate the resolution of unresolved contacts. We put to a test the developed collision procedure with diverse scenarios involving static and dynamic friction, sharp objects, and complex-topology folding sequences. Finally, we perform an experimental validation of the collision model by comparing simulations with recordings of real textiles as given by a Motion Capture System. The results are very accurate, having errors around 1 cm for DIN A2 textiles (42 x 59.4 cm) even in difficult scenarios involving fast and strong hits with a rigid object. In this work, we present a novel collision model for inextensible textiles and validate it experimentally through a comparison with real textiles as recorded by a Motion Capture System. In the figure we can see four frames comparing the recorded hitting with a stick of a DIN A2 (42 x 59.4 cm) polyester sheet (left) with its inextensible simulation (right); its average error being 1.44 cm. The recordings are obtained by attaching 20 reflective markers of diameter 3 mm and weight of 0.013 g to the real textile and following their trajectory. On the bottom, we show a full plot of the mean absolute error of the position of each marker with respect to its simulation and with yellow lines we highlight the moments in which the object is in contact with the cloth. Notice that the biggest errors appear not during the hits but just after because of aerodynamic effects. The above simulations, with a 7 × 9 mesh, are two times faster than real-time. Our custom active-set solver is three times faster than a standard interior-point method using the same mesh resolution. • We develop a cloth collision model which results in a coupled resolution of friction, inextensibility, and contact forces. • Self-collisions are modeled in a way that allows considering cloth's thickness without introducing unwanted oscillations. • An active-set solver for the system's integration is developed, which can start from any non-necessarily feasible point. • An empirical validation is performed, with scenarios involving high-friction surfaces and strong hits with a stick. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The close interaction between skin and clothing has become an attractive cornerstone for the development of therapeutic textiles able to alleviate skin disorders, namely those correlated to microbiota dysregulation. Skin microbiota imbalance is known in several skin diseases, including atopic dermatitis (AD), psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea, acne and hidradenitis suppurative (HS). Such microbiota dysregulation is usually correlated with inflammation, discomfort and pruritus. Although conventional treatments, that is, the administration of steroids and antibiotics, have shown some efficacy in treating and alleviating these symptoms, there are still disadvantages that need to be overcome. These include their long‐term usage with side effects negatively impacting resident microbiota members, antibiotic resistance and the elevated rate of recurrence. Remarkably, therapeutic textiles as a non‐pharmacological measure have emerged as a promising strategy to treat, alleviate the symptoms and control the severity of many skin diseases. This systematic review showcases for the first time the effects of therapeutic textiles on patients with skin dysbiosis, focusing on efficacy, safety, adverse effects and antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti‐inflammatory properties. The main inclusion criteria were clinical trials performed in patients with skin dysbiosis who received treatment involving the use of therapeutic textiles. Although there are promising outcomes regarding clinical parameters, safety and adverse effects, there is still a lack of information about the impact of therapeutic textiles on the skin microbiota of such patients. Intensive investigation and corroboration with clinical trials are needed to strengthen, define and drive the real benefit and the ideal biomedical application of therapeutic textiles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fabric defect detection is an important part of the textile industry, aiming at the problems of many types of fabric defects, small size defects and unbalanced samples, an improved YOLOv5 fabric defect detection algorithm, FD-YOLOv5, was proposed. First, the coordinate attention module is embedded in the YOLOv5 backbone network structure to replace the bottleneck structure in the original network model. While reducing the amount of parameters and calculation, it enhances the ability of the network to extract features and improves the model's ability to detect small target defects. Secondly, a smoother Mish activation function is used in the original model convolution structure for model training, which improves the nonlinear expression ability of the model; the SIoU loss function considering the direction of the anchor box is used to improve the convergence speed and detection accuracy of the model. Finally, combining the focal loss and GHM loss functions as the target confidence loss function to solve the problem of sample imbalance in the fabric defect dataset. The experimental results based on the public fabric defect dataset of Aliyun TianChi shows that the mAP@.5 and mAP@.5:.95 of the improved algorithm are 65.1% and 30.4%, respectively, which are 8.3% and 3.2% higher than the original model, respectively, and the parameter amount, calculation amount and weight of the model are reduced by 8.4%, 11.2% and 14.3%, respectively, compared with the original model. Even compared with the state-of-the-art YOLOv7 model, the mAP@.5 value of the proposed model is improved by 6.5%. Although the FPS value is lower than YOLOv7 model, it also achieves a detection speed of 79 frames per second, which can meet the real-time demand. The experimental results demonstrate the effectiveness of the method in this paper, which can provide a reference for the automatic detection method of fabric defects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Paleoethnobotanical remains from basketry and cordage from the Paisley Caves offer an opportunity to explore how people engaged with plant communities over time. Fiber identification of textiles, together with radiocarbon dating, contributes new information about landscape use within the Summer Lake Basin. Expanded marshlands during the terminal Pleistocene / Early Holocene created suitable plant communities ideal for fiber technology, specifically wetland monocots and herbaceous dicots-including dogbane and stinging nettle-by 11,000 years ago. This technology is key to subsistence activities and craft production throughout the Holocene. Despite climatic events during the Middle Holocene, in which people transitioned from caves to sites centered on lakeshores and wetlands, the suite of fiber plants and their technological application remains constant. During the Late Holocene, bast fiber material diversified with the addition of flax and milkweed. The presence of flax in particular, a high-elevation plant, may reflect the increased use of upland root collection areas as populations increased. This research provides long-term data on culturally significant native plants used in the manufacture of fiber-based textiles over the last 14,000 years. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Seamlessly integrating biosensors into clothing for personalized stress level monitoring, specifically targeting cortisol, a stress‐related compound found in sweat, shows great potential for efficiently monitoring and managing individual mental and physical well‐being. Nevertheless, realizing the fabric biosensor faces a notable challenge, as it involves the persistent obstacle of ensuring reusability and washability. Here, a fabric sensing system constructed by a fiber electrode for rapid and reliable cortisol detection with high repeatability, breathability, and stability is reported. The fibers are assembled from aligned carbon nanotubes and functionalized with a molecularly imprinted polymer containing redox‐active nanoreporters. Through washing with ethanol, the fabricated fabric sensor exhibits high reusability for over 100 cycles detecting cortisol. The key is the large active surface area and elaborately designed channel distance in the fiber electrode, ensuring a stable interface between the polymer and the fiber electrode. The resulting fabric sensing system presents convenient monitoring of cortisol levels, allowing assessment of stress levels to understand emotions and health condition better. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The compaction of a fabric reinforcement in a Universal Testing Machine (UTM) allows to determine the achievable fiber volume fraction across a wide range of pressures, a valuable information for composite manufacturing. As seen in the first international compressibility benchmark, inaccuracies in the fabric stack thickness measurement, the approach to compliance correction and the non-parallelism between compaction plates resulted in highly inaccurate compression curves. In this paper, the different variability sources affecting indirect thickness methods, based on the machine displacement, and direct methods with laser sensors are presented and its impact on the accuracy is estimated. In conclusion, both thickness measurement methods produced similar results; however, the thickness measured by direct methods experienced more variability due to minor changes in the rig's displacement or the orientations between plates, combined with other sources of variability such as external interferences or vibrations from the compaction plate which led to variations in measurement precision throughout the tests. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

One of the major advances in mineral physics and seismology is the realization that different olivine fabric types are functions of temperature, shear stress, and water content in oceanic subducting systems. The distribution of different olivine fabric types and geodynamic processes in the mantle wedge above a subducting continental slab remain poorly understood. Here, based on splitting analysis of shear waves recorded by 46 stations recently deployed in central Myanmar, we reveal trench-perpendicular fast orientations between the 80 and 100 km slab contours sandwiched between trench-parallel fast orientations from the mantle wedge tip to the backarc. The dramatic change in fast orientations indicates the transition of olivine fabric types in the mantle wedge combined with corner flow. Cold continental subduction and shear stress reduction caused by partial melting favor B-type and C- or E-type olivine fabrics, respectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article reviews the research recently undertaken to characterise and identify early synthetic dyes (ESDs) and synthetic organic pigments (SOPs) as well as study their degradation pathways with a focus on cultural heritage applications. Since the invention of the first fully synthetic dye in 1856, these materials have been used in a variety of historic objects and artworks, such as textiles, furniture, prints, paintings, drawings, etc. The synthesis of new dyes and their implementation into pigment formulations were rapid phenomena, so that by the beginning of the 20th century, thousands of new molecules were patented and commercialised. This review will focus on these early formulations synthesised up to approximately 1914 and the outbreak of World War I. ESDs and SOPs represent a challenge from an analytical point of view. Molecular databases are fundamental for the unequivocal identification of these compounds, but reference materials are not always readily available. A combination of analytical techniques is often needed for characterisation, especially in the case of SOPs, which have both organic and inorganic components. Furthermore, the degradation of these molecules can jeopardise their detection in historic objects that have been exposed to light, humidity and temperature fluctuations. Nevertheless, ESDs and SOPs are important research tools. As the dates of their first synthesis are often known with precision, based on patent information, their detection can be used to refine the production date of objects. Additionally, their trade from Europe to the world and their adoption in artistic practices around the globe is an active area of research. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]