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Translation abstract An outlook on the interaction between the folding process and the drapability of the textile reinforcementThe production of textile‐reinforced concrete (TRC) components, particularly by preforming, has traditionally relied heavily on iterative processes and decisions. While this approach is effective for certain established TRC applications, it leads to a significant planning effort and carries the risk of overlooking technically or economically more favorable alternatives. This paper proposes to utilize the principles of folded load‐bearing structures as the basis for the production line of TRC components. This new methodology has both material and process requirements and focuses on the use of folded formwork and its effects on the drapability of reinforcement textiles. Based on initial findings from the field of folded formwork and the analysis of the drapability of textile mesh reinforcements, the relationships and dependencies between the material “textile”, the process “folded formwork” and the product “folded load‐bearing TRC structures” are shown and the challenges of these subfields are revealed. In this way, the study aims to rationalize production planning, reduce dependence on traditional methods and open up ways of incorporating innovative materials and processes into TRC production. The approach harbors significant potential for the economic viability of folded load‐bearing TRC structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article provides information on moisture and impurities in cotton that is picked by hand and by different cotton-picking machines, as well as the number of knots in the hand and machine-made cotton fiber, in addition to the length of the staple of the fiber. An analysis of the results of manual and machine research on cotton is presented. The moisture content, the contamination, the number of knots, and the length of the staple depend on a number of factors, and the results obtained by the methods of their determination are illustrated. The quality of cotton is determined not only by the types of machines, but also by the climatic conditions during the harvest, cotton opening, field preparation, and other factors, as well as the contamination by the State Standard UzDst 592-2008 on the methods of determining the cotton contamination. The results of a practical study of comparing moisture and contamination of cotton harvested by hand and by cotton picking machine ''Case-2020'' in Genefon breeder type 1 in the Dustlik district of Jizzakh region of Uzbekistan and contrasting type cotton harvested by John Deere by SPD90 and humidity and humidity indicators of hand-picked cotton and number of blanks and length of staples in cotton fiber JCS Jizzakh textile The analysis of the results of the tests performed on the laboratory equipment on the USTER AFIS PRO 2 equipment installed in the laboratory of the division is presented in table and graphical form. The range of contamination of cotton during its collection by various methods was established, which amounted to 7.1-10.0%. Based on the results of the research, it is stated that it is necessary to develop recommendations on the technological processes of cotton processing and spinning based on the analysis of moisture content, contamination, number of sticks, and staple lengths of cotton. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Industria Textila is the property of Institutul National de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile si Pielarie and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

In view of the problems of low added value of products, lack of innovation ability and weak brand influence, the advantages and challenges of Gaoyang county textile industry cluster were discussed by combining qualitative and quantitative analysis methods, and corresponding suggestions were put forward. The research reveals that despite Gaoyang county's outstanding performance in industrial heritage, scale a advantages, and product diversification, its development is constrained by insufficient technological innovation, weak brand building, and low level of digitization. Therefore, strategies are proposed including shifting development modes, strengthening brand cultivation, enhancing digitization levels, and promoting green production. These strategic recommendations provide valuable insights for enhancing the competitiveness of Gaoyang county and similar textile industry clusters, holding significant implications for promoting local economic development. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cotton is used for the production of textiles, hygiene and cosmetic materials. During cultivation and technological processes, various types of substances (surfactants, softeners, lubricants, etc.) penetrate cotton, which can have a harmful effect on both the human body and the environment. The aim of this study was to analyze selected cotton products in order to identify the substances contained and to describe the potential possibilities of inducing textile contact dermatitis (CD). The impact of the identified compounds on the aquatic environment was also taken into account. Nine samples of cotton clothing and seven samples of cotton pads from various manufacturers were tested. Samples after extraction using the FUSLE (Focused Ultrasonic Liquid Extraction) technique were analyzed with GC/MS. Qualitative analysis was based on comparing mass spectra with library spectra using the following mass spectra deconvolution programs: MassHunter (Agilent), AMDIS (NIST), and PARADISE (University of Copenhagen). The parameter confirming the identification of the substance was the retention index. Through the non-target screening process, a total of 36 substances were identified, with an average AMDIS match factor of approximately 900 ("excellent match"). Analyzing the properties of the identified compounds, it can be concluded that most of them have potential properties that can cause CD, also due to the relatively high content in samples. This applies primarily to long-chain alkanes (C25–C31), saturated fatty acids, fatty alcohols (e.g., oleyl alcohol), and fatty acid amides (e.g., oleamide). However, there are not many reports describing cases of cotton CD. Information on the identified groups of compounds may be helpful in the case of unexplained sources of sensitization when the skin comes into contact with cotton materials. Some of the identified compounds are also classified as dangerous for aquatic organisms, especially if they can be released during laundering. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article introduces a novel, rapid, and non-destructive method for assessing homogeneity within and between weave repeats in fabric structures, termed intra-repeat (IAR) and inter-repeat (IER) evaluation. The method focuses on structural parameters, including inter-thread pores (ITPs) and warp and weft pitches, using computer image analysis. Each parameter is assigned to a module in the repeat weave pattern, facilitating the sorting of modules in the IAR and IER fabric structure arrangement. The method was verified using artificial images and 30 real plain fabrics with varying degrees of warp grouping, employing the author's proprietary software, MagFABRIC version 2.1The general measurable coefficients of intra- and inter-homogeneity were defined and related to the airflow measurements of these fabrics. Multiple regression models of airflow revealed strong dependencies, particularly for F = 10, with the size, shape, and position of ITPs and warp and weft pitches showing significant correlation. These findings underscore the importance of the new homogeneity parameters in textile structure analysis, including both IAR and IER woven fabric structure homogeneity parameters. The research aims to model specialized fabrics (e.g., barrier, filtration, composite fabrics) to address local changes in fabric structure affecting properties such as filtration efficiency, air permeability, and mechanical properties, especially in applications like composites or medical implants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Irrigation & Drainage is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Functional textiles and clothing designed for children should provide a safe and supportive environment, encompassing comfort, safety, health, wellbeing, and cognitive development, as well as fostering interaction and exploration. This study explores the multifaceted nature of functional textiles and clothing for children. It emphasises the importance of comprehensive knowledge about the user and an interdisciplinary approach in the design process. The integration of expertise from diverse fields contributes to a holistic understanding of the challenges and opportunities inherent in creating clothing that satisfies aesthetic demands and promotes the wellbeing of children. Through a study of existing research in functional textiles and a market analysis of children's clothing, this research underscores the importance of practical application of studied materials and technologies in children's fashion, creating innovative and purposeful solutions. This collaborative effort involves working with multidisciplinary teams and applying designers' updated knowledge of functional materials throughout all stages of the design process. The study emphasises the designer's responsibility in articulating the essential knowledge needed to integrate functionality from the beginning of the design process, ensuring that practical considerations are integral to the core attributes of the clothing. The study also proposes a framework that represents the design process for functional children's clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Effective removal of surface contamination through washing, analyzed via image processing. • Improved textile preservation with a higher surfactant concentration during washing. • In-depth analysis of textiles from Pachacamac site, covering composition, morphology, and mechanics. • Resilience of internal textile crystalline structure post-washing and aging. • Significance of textile preservation in cultural heritage studies. Conservation of textiles is indubitably a delicate and relevant matter, as its focus is to preserve pieces that carry unmeasurable historical value. This work aims to evaluate the impact of washing and aging processes in the conservation of archaeological textiles. The samples used are Peruvian textiles found in the Museum of Site and Archeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac, located in the Lurín district, city of Lima, Perú. The museum's cleaning protocol was replicated using the immersion washing method with Orvus WA paste as a surfactant at concentrations of 0.5% and 1% w/w. Samples analyzed conditions included: unwashed control samples, samples washed with both concentrations, and samples washed and followed by a prolonged light exposure aging. Evaluated parameters were changes in tonality by conducting surface analysis through scanning electron microscopy and image processing, determining the crystallinity index using the X-ray diffraction method, analyzing surface properties via X-ray energy dispersion spectroscopy, and mechanical properties by tensile testing The obtained results show the effective removal of surface particles, mostly soluble salts. Prolonged light exposure caused a loss of color saturation on the textile due to photodegradation. Meanwhile, the washing process with a 1% surfactant concentration showed no loss in the mechanical properties; furthermore, previously washed aged samples showed the ability to better withstand the aging and photodegradation process and better retain their mechanical properties compared to the untreated uncleaned sample. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Currently, researchers have been particularly interested in Industry 4.0 (I4.0) as a combination of novel revolutionary digital technologies. This evolution is transforming how organizations operate to promote sustainable and circular practices. Consequently, this research empirically investigates the capabilities of I4.0 adoption to establish a sustainable and circular supply chain. The study investigates the impact of organizational factors on the deployment of I4.0 technologies to achieve sustainability objectives. Furthermore, this approach combines empirical and qualitative analyses within a methodological framework to investigate the relationship between organizational factors, I4.0 adoption, sustainable, and circular practices. In this context, survey responses have been collected from 323 supply chain professionals in the textile sector in Morocco. Consequently, employing structural equation modeling, our results reveal a strong link between I4.0 adoption and the promotion of circular and sustainable approaches. The study finds a positive association between I4.0 adoption, technological readiness, and environmental responsiveness while highlighting the challenges posed by organizational practices on I4.0 implementation in developing countries. This research contributes to the theoretical foundations of the potential influence of I4.0 technologies, and it provides practical contributions for stakeholders to effectively embrace I4.0 technologies and thereby drive more sustainable and efficient practices. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

One of the current important issues is the management of used textiles. One method is recycling, but the processes are characterized by a high environmental burden and the products obtained are of lower quality. Used textiles can be successfully used to produce SRF (solid recovered fuels). This type of fuel is standardized by ISO 21640:2021. In the paper, an analysis of used textiles made from fibers of different origins was performed. These were acrylic, cotton, linen, polyester, wool, and viscose. A proximate and ultimate analysis of the investigated samples was performed, including mercury and chlorine content. The alternative fuel produced from used textiles will be characterized by acceptable parameters for consumers: a lower heating value at 20 MJ/kg (class 1–3 SRF), mercury content below 0.9 µg Hg/MJ (class 1 SRF), and a chlorine content below 0.2% (class 1 SRF). However, the very high sulfur content in wool (3.0–3.6%) and the high nitrogen content in acrylic may limit its use for power generation. The use of alternative fuel derived from used textiles may allow 3% of the coal consumed to be substituted in 2030. The reduction in carbon dioxide emissions from the substitution of coal with an alternative fuel derived from used textiles will depend on their composition. For natural and man-made cellulosic fibers, the emission factor can be assumed as for plant biomass, making their use for SRF production preferable. For synthetic fibers, the emission factor was estimated at the level of 102 and 82 gCO2/MJ for polyester and acrylic, respectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerous studies have explored mobility along the Qhapaq Ñan. Most of them examine how the road influenced local, regional, and imperial dynamics by fostering exchange relationships and connecting societies, people, and territories. These investigations explicitly or implicitly assume that it was male individuals who mobilized to build the Tahuantinsuyo, while women remained within the domestic unit or were confined to imperial buildings. In this study, we seek to acknowledge potential patterns of women's mobility as part of female collectives, including those identified as acllas (chosen ones) or mamaconas (matrons) within the Tahuantinsuyo territory, through a gender perspective. We do so by drawing on five cases supported by biogenetic data and published textile analysis, as well as ethnohistorical data from Inca llacta cemeteries and capacocha ritual events (a ritual of obligation to the Inca state where infants were offered). We identified modes of movement that consider the distance traveled, the age of female individuals, and the political motives framing each activity, and which, in turn, construct identity, Finally, our analysis indicates that the visualization and analysis of individuals' mobility experiences are associated with types of movement related to local, regional, or imperial political interests that reveal certain logics of movement that have been hidden, in this case, those of female experiences within the Tahuantinsuyo. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Middle Nile Valley offers exceptional environmental conditions that allow the preservation of organic materials, including textiles. This paper presents the results of the analysis of 17 samples collected from wool, cotton, and silk textiles excavated in the ancient capital of Old Dongola from layers dated to the 17th and 18th centuries CE. Chemical analysis using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC‐MS/MS) have identified both plant and animal dyes. Locally produced textiles, mostly from wool and decorated with blue, green, orange, and yellow hues, were dyed with woad (Isatis tinctoria), flavonoid plants, and madder‐type roots, which were already known and used by medieval dyers in that area. For the first time, kermes (Kermes vermilio) and lac‐dye (Kerria species) have been also identified as a dye source in samples from this group. Imported fabrics, of cotton and silk, were dyed blue with woad (I. tinctoria) but also with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria); dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria) and kermes (K. vermilio) were other dyes identified in this second group. The results of this study provide the first dye identification for textiles produced in the 17th–18th c. Sudan and contribute new data to the research on textile production and trade in post‐medieval Sudan. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the case of solid slabs made of reinforced concrete that are usually subjected to bending, large areas of the structure are stressed well below their load-bearing capacity. Contrary to this are shell structures, which can bridge large spans with little material if designed according to the force flow. To improve the efficiency of ceiling slabs, we want to utilize the shell load-bearing behavior on a smaller scale by resolving the solid interior accordingly. In order to study a wide range of such constructions virtually, a parametric multi-objective simulation environment is being developed in an ongoing research project. The basic analysis approaches that were implemented are presented in this paper. The basic workflow, the used programs and material models, and their calibration on the tests on textile-reinforced concrete (TRC) samples are described. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the case of solid slabs made from reinforced concrete that are usually subjected to bending, large areas of the structure are stressed well below their load-bearing capacity or remain stress-free. Contrary to this are shell structures, which can bridge large spans with little material if designed well. To improve the efficiency of ceiling slabs, we want to utilize the shell load-bearing behaviour on a smaller scale by dissolving the solid interior accordingly. In order to be able to study a wide range of such constructions virtually, a parametric multi-objective simulation environment is to be developed in an ongoing research project, the basic analysis approaches of which are presented in this paper. In addition to the basic workflow and the programs used, the material models for TRC material compared and their calibration are described on the basis of tests on textile reinforced concrete (TRC) samples. Various material models were implemented within the commercially available software RFEM (Version 5.19). Laboratory tests on two different geometry solutions of TRC structures served to verify the models. The structures were selected in a way that differentiates between the bending and membrane actions to indicate the application fields for various approaches in the numerical modelling of TRC structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The subject of the paper are the grave robes of the Polish King Zygmunt III Vasa, resting in the crypt in the Archcathedral Basilica of Saint Stanislaus and Saint Wenceslaus on the Wawel Hill in Kraków. The studies presented were possible thanks to an 'in situ' analysis of the clothes and a possibility of taking samples of textiles from which the clothing was sewn. The paper presents the results of a comprehensive textile analysis of fabrics, a description of the clothing that made up the funerary robes and analysis of the results obtained in the context of historical sources and works of art depicting the monarch. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

At present, the challenging issue of the compatibility between stab resistance and flexibility of materials frequently appears. Thus, this study proposes a novel method to enhance the comprehensive performance of the material matrix with stab resistance. Based on the stab-resistant mechanism analysis of the textile matrix, the influence of four factors on the performance of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) knitted fabric was discussed. And, the optimal process conditions of material for achieving high stab resistance and high flexibility were obtained by the response surface method. A series of experiments proved that among all factors, the fabric structure had the greatest influence on the flexible stab-resistant knitted material. Following that, the thickness of the yarn also plays a significant role. Under the optimal process conditions, the stab peak force of the knitted material was promoted to 52.450 N, and the flexibility was enhanced to 93.6%. Meanwhile, through comparison with products that have undergone the same treatment, there was little difference in stab resistance but significantly improved flexibility. It achieves the initial stab resistance and comfortable wearing softness of the fabric through process optimization. This improvement in overall performance of the textile matrix enables further enhancement treatments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to solve the problems of complex reaction conditions, high energy consumption, serious pollution and unsatisfactory effect in functional finishing of textiles, the theoretical research status of click-chemical reaction in the field of textiles was summarized. The concept, characteristics, reaction types and applications of click chemistry are introduced, which include thio-ene click chemistry, thiolisocyanate click chemical reaction and thio-maleimide click chemical reaction and their applications in functional finishing such as water repellent, flame retardant, felt shrinkage and antibacterial. It is pointed out that click chemical reaction itself will be used as "Accelerant" to further promote the development of functional finishing such as flame-retardant, antibacterial, water-repellent, oil-repellent, antistatic, photochromic and felt shrinkage. Finally, the prospect of click chemistry is given, which can provide research ideas and theoretical reference for the application of click chemistry in the field of textile functional finishing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Detecting and measuring cracks during laboratory experiments to characterize material behavior is an important task in building materials research. In this context, the evaluation of crack distribution is emphasized, including crack widths. Contact-free, optical 2D/3D-measuring Digital Image Correlation systems are used to analyze the full-field deformation of the surface. To examine the parameters affecting crack analysis through this measurement mode, a parameter study was conducted analyzing carbon textile-reinforced concrete tensile strength tests. For this purpose, facet size, facet overlap, and the threshold for crack identification based on major strain calculations in the evaluation were varied. The novelty lies in the in-depth exploration of these parameters to enhance crack analysis accuracy. To facilitate this, an automated crack evaluation tool (ACE) was developed and validated through tensile tests. The results of this paper provide evidence of the key parameters that influence crack analysis in textile reinforced concrete and contribute valuable guidance on optimum setting parameters. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is a lack of high correlation and reuse potential among multiple manufacturing data for textiles and apparel. Moreover, the material flow traceability between production workstations is not clear, making it difficult to detect potential production bottlenecks. This paper proposes a knowledge graph embedded time serial data-driven bottleneck analysis of textile and apparel production processes. Firstly, a dynamic information association model is established to organize global manufacturing information, including the static data and time-series data features. Also, a textile-corpus-oriented knowledge extraction model is designed to construct a time-series knowledge graph for textile and apparel production (TKG4TA). Then, a temporal knowledge-driven production process bottleneck prediction model is presented based on manufacturing knowledge in the textile and apparel industry. Of these, textile knowledge is transformed into embeddings using a graph convolutional network (GCN). In turn, the context-associated information features are learned by the long short-term memory (LSTM) to predict the bottlenecks in the textile and apparel production process. Finally, a typical process flow in a shirt manufacturing workshop is used as a case study. It shows that the F1 value of the proposed method for named entity recognition and relationship extraction is up to 80.3%, and 50.6%, respectively. The performance of the proposed model for bottleneck prediction is improved by 8.2% and 14.92% compared to only the use of GCN or LSTM in the mean absolute error. This model may provide a solid foundation for the temporal knowledge-graph-driven bottleneck analysis of shirt manufacturing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The development of a textile analysis protocol for natural fibers suggests that several natural species can be considered as textile raw materials for the production of different textile genres and they can be used within the clothing industry by appreciating the qualities they possess. Among the objectives is to determine the feasibility of using natural fibers in a textile genre and to do so, the physical and morphological characteristics of the natural fibers must be investigated as well as analyzed to finally develop the textile analysis protocol, which includes physical and morphological. The criteria of experts related to all fields of the textile industry were investigated through interviews, with the objective of determining what are the minimum characteristics necessary to obtain a textile fabric of the woven or non-woven type that is usable within the clothing industry, additionally The information collected was taken into account after developing a bibliographic analysis on national and international control standards. In the development of the tool for textile analysis, it was possible to establish a textile analysis protocol supported by control standards that provide the necessary information for the analysis of natural fibers. The analysis developed with this protocol is an indicator to determine if a material can be considered for the production of woven and non-woven textiles, with the experimentation of the production of textiles at an industrial level still pending. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Multi Fibre Agreement (MFA), which had governed the global textile and apparel trade was replaced by the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) on January 1, 2005. The removal of quota restrictions has brought comparative advantage back to significant surplus economies such as China and India, and has also provided significant opportunities as well as challenges to the developing economies. Compared to its competitors, the Indian textile industry enjoys certain advantages, but at the same time, the industry also faces numerous challenges in the changed trade scenario. In this context, the present study analyses the performance of the Indian textile industry in terms of its export performance changes in the composition and destination of textile exports in the post-MFA period. The analysis period is from 1990-91 to 2020-21, divided into a transition period (1990-2004) and a post-MFA period (2005-2020). The annual growth of textile exports from India registered fluctuations both during the transition and post-MFA regime. The mean values of the major subsectors of Indian textiles, viz, readymade garments, cotton textiles, and manmade textiles were higher in the post-MFA than during the transition period. The regression results show improved performance in the exports of textiles, readymade garments, cotton textiles, and manmade textiles in the post-MFA period. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios de Diseño y Comunicación is the property of Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios de Diseno y Comunicacion and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Industria Textila is the property of Institutul National de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile si Pielarie and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Industria Textila is the property of Institutul National de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile si Pielarie and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

This manuscript explores the potential of macro-X-ray fluorescence (MA-XRF) for the non-invasive analysis of heritage textiles. XRF, especially with the portable instruments, is a well-known technique for the non-destructive examination of various cultural heritage objects. It allows analysis of elemental composition based on single-point measurements. However, large, or complex textiles require numerous analysis points to identify the materials used and correctly interpret the spectra. MA-XRF takes this type of research to the next level, as it is possible to visualise the element distribution over an entire mapped area. In this paper, we discuss the application of this technique to the study of complex and multi-layered textile objects from exceptional Belgian heritage collections, including two mitres attributed to Bishop Jacques de Vitry, dating between twelfth and thirteenth century, and two of the seven extremely fine medieval reliquary purses from Namur. These are very fragile, richly decorated textile objects whose current state of preservation is a major impediment to sampling. MA-XRF mapping was applied for the identification of the elements of different materials in a non-invasive manner, including metal threads, ink, dyes, and various materials used in illuminations. In addition to material identification, stratigraphic information was obtained from the visualisation of element distributions, and hidden structural details were discovered. MA-XRF was also tested on some areas with more relief, such as the embroidery and braid made with metal threads, and the undulated multi-layered structure of the parchment mitre. Even though the analyses here could not be carried out in optimal conditions, these locations could also be analysed, albeit at a lower resolution. Finally, the technique proved very effective as a tool for screening, allowing samples to be taken at a more informative and representative location and minimising sampling. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: In forensic science, fibres are utilized to establish a link between the crime and the suspect. The samples are examined using several analytical methods to discover relationships between various clothing materials. The most typically studied forensic trace evidence in forensic laboratories are remnants of single fibres. The colour and dyes of fibre micro traces are studied using microscopic, chromatographic, and spectroscopic approaches, which play a significant part in forensic investigations. Objectives: This study aims to identify the forensic analysis of dyed textile fibres with various analytical techniques. Conclusion: Because of the significance of fibre clues in criminal investigation, a significant number of studies were done using analytical methods. Raman spectroscopy is being researched more and more for the forensic investigation of textile fibres, as it has a high potential for detecting and identifying dyes in fibres. In addition, FTIR can identify co-monomers, solvents and additives, allowing even more differentiation amongst acrylic fibre subclasses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Simple Summary: Damage on clothing worn by homicide victims can provide valuable information about the weapon or the actions of the assault. For instance, knives deposit distinct marks on fabric depending on the blade's characteristics, and tears produce a unique morphology on clothing. However, in cases where a victim is found after a period of time, the natural processes of decomposition and insect colonization can potentially modify the damage on clothing, hindering the reconstruction of the crime. To evaluate these modifications, we conducted this study on stillborn piglets wrapped in different fabrics that were stabbed or had their fabric torn before being placed in the field to decompose. Our results show that decomposition and insect activity can modify existing cuts and tears and introduce new artifacts on fabrics as the time since death increases. The modifications of the inflicted cuts and tears were influenced by factors such as the type of fabric, type of initial damage, decomposition processes, insect activity, bacterial and fungal colonization, and length of exposure to the environment. Fatal stabbings are the leading cause of homicide in countries with restricted access to firearms, such as Australia. The analysis of damage on clothing imparted by a sharp object can assist in the characterization of the weapon. However, decomposition and carrion insects can modify the features of the damage, impeding textile damage analysis and crime reconstruction. This study aimed to identify and characterize the modifications of textile damage over 47 days of decomposition during the summer season in Western Australia. Fabric modifications were analyzed on cotton, synthetic, and blended fabrics with standardized cuts and tears, wrapped on 99 stillborn piglets. Six unclothed piglets acted as controls, with three being stabbed. All piglets were placed simultaneously in the field alongside swatches of fabric. Analyses considered taphonomy, insect interactions, and any textile damage using optical microscopy and SEM. The results showed that carrion insects can modify existing cuts and tears and introduce new artifacts on textiles. The 100% cotton fabric was the most affected by mechanical and chemical degradation, especially cuts and areas stained with blood or decomposition fluids. The study highlights the combined effect of multiple factors on textile damage, including the type of fabric, initial damage, bloating, insect activity, and biodegradation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: This article aims to analyze the influence of the organizational climate on the absorptive capacity. Design/Methodology/approach: The survey is characterized as descriptive and quantitative. The employed method is a survey, applied through the virtual platform Google Forms. The sample consisted of 172 respondents from five manufacturing units of a textile industry, being collected by accessibility and convenience. Multiple regression analysis was used to process and analyze the data. Findings: The research shows that hypotheses H1a, H1c e H1d are confirmed, a favorable organizational climate influences the absorptive capacity through proper management of internal relationships, effective leadership, and renowned organizational image. On the other hand, the H1b hypothesis was rejected, organizational climate did not show interference in the absorptive capacity through professional development in the confirmatory test. Originality/relevance: The significance and contribution of this study lie in addressing an observed gap in the analysis and evaluation of absorptive capacity. Specifically, it explores how organizational climate management practices interrelate with this concept, thereby shedding light on related themes. Practical implications: The study allows managers of organizations to understand which organizational climate management practices should be prioritized in the absorptive capacity, thus contributing to the creation of an environment conducive to the transfer of knowledge, that is, combining prior knowledge with the new knowledge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper exploits the rich but little-studied corpus of archaeological textiles found in modern Sudan and Nubia and dated to the Meroitic and Postmeroitic periods (c. 350 BCE–550 CE). It allies current approaches developed in the field of mortuary archaeology with an in-depth analysis of textile artefacts discovered in situ in the graves of the ancient Sudanese people. Going beyond the simple description of textile items and their potential place in the tomb, the concept of funerary chaîne opératoire is used to trace and interpret textile gestures around the deceased. Through many examples and the detailed case study of an 'archer' grave from Gebel Adda (Lower Nubia), this article aims at demonstrating the active and important role of textiles in the transformation of the dead, from an inert body to a revered ancestor. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The principles governing the reuse of industrial heritage aim to preserve its key features. However, there are various interpretations of these principles when it comes to the design process. This study utilizes international documents, specifically ICOMOS charters, as a source for extracting goals, policies, strategies, and design solutions related to changing the use of industrial heritage, adopting a combined quantitative and qualitative approach and logical reasoning method. By analyzing the content of the charters and recommendations, as well as the frequency of keywords related to landuse change, thirteen categories were identified, including integrity, authenticity, value, people-society, historical aspects, collective memories, tradition and characteristic, tangible-intangible aspects, culture, economy, spirit of the location, and the connections between them. For example, the goal of preserving the core values of the industrial complex within the value category leads to the identification of common patterns in both the tangible and intangible aspects of the works. In terms of economic policies, emphasis is placed on enhancing economic productivity for the benefit of the local community. When discussing traditions, an important strategy is to utilize the physical capabilities and visual values of the heritage as a source of inspiration for the new design. Identifying the character of the work involves considering elements such as the structure type, coverings, decorative style, materials used, furniture components related to the production line. Furthermore, maintaining the ability to host events and activities that took place during the active phase of the complex helps establish a connection between people, society, and industrial heritage. These components represent various instances that have been derived from international documents and provide different levels of activities related to the landuse change, as explored in this research. A quantitative analysis was conducted to examine the "communication network" among these categories as a foundation for resource management. The results highlight relationships between goals, policies, strategies, and solutions across different categories. For example, preserving the values of the heritage requires interaction with aspects such as "completeness" and "tangible and intangible entities". The decisions in the field of "people and society" are closely related to "authenticity", "collective memories", "economy", and "value". The volume of the communication network in the value category has the greatest impact on other categories. To demonstrate a practical application of the identified categories and the hierarchy of goals to solutions, the reuse plan of Shiraz textile factory was examined as a case study. The findings of the study revealed that the land-use change plan for the Shiraz textile factory included 14 practical actions related to value, 12 actions related to importance, and 11 actions related to collective memories. The remaining categories had a range of actions ranging from 2 to 7. Based on these actions, the land-use change plan received a score of 75.06%, indicating that it is considered a successful case of change of use. Overall, the model presented in this research can aid in designing according to the principles of industrial heritage protection and serve as an evaluation tool for analyzing land-use change plans in alignment with international documents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Copyright of Scripta is the property of Scripta and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Desorption electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (DESI-MS) is an ambient mass spectrometry technique that shows great potential for the analysis of fragile heritage objects in situ. This article focuses on the application of a recently built DESI source to characterize natural dyestuffs in historical textiles and a presentation of initial imaging experiments. Optimization of the instrumental settings, geometrical parameters, and solvent system on the DESI-MS analysis was conducted on rhodamine B samples. Some variables, including an increased flow rate, a narrower range of optimized geometrical variables and a solvent system without additives, were applicable to both early synthetic and natural dyes. Direct dye turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) could be reliably analyzed on both silk and wool, as could anthraquinone standards without mordanting. These preliminary results suggest that the dye application process (direct, mordant, vat) has a large impact on the ionization efficiency of DESI-MS. Imaging trials highlighted the suitability of DESI-MS for the analysis of patterned textiles that are difficult to sample, such as calico fabrics, or other currently inaccessible objects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The extended application of device-dependent systems' vision is growing exponentially, but these systems face challenges in precisely imitating the human perception models established by the device-independent systems of the Commission internationale de l'éclairage (CIE). We previously discussed the theoretical treatment and experimental validation of developing a calibrated integrated sphere imaging system to imitate the visible spectroscopy environment. The RGB polynomial function was derived to obtain a meaningful interpretation of color features. In this study, we dyed three different types of textured materials in the same bath with a yellow reactive dye at incremental concentrations to see how their color difference profiles tested. Three typical cotton textures were dyed with three ultra-RGB remozol reactive dyes and their combinations. The color concentration ranges of 1%, 2%, 3%, and 4% were chosen for each dye, followed by their binary and ternary mixtures. The aim was to verify the fundamental spectral feature mapping in various imaging color spaces and spectral domains. The findings are quite interesting and help us to understand the ground truth behind working in two domains. In addition, the trends of color mixing, CIE color difference, CIExy (chromaticity) color gamut, and RGB gamut and their distinguishing features were verified. Human perception accuracy was also compared in both domains to clarify the influence of texture. These fundamental experiments and observations on human perception and calibrated imaging color space could clarify the expected precision in both domains. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Middle East has been the place of various cultural ties. One of the most brilliant of these ages is the era of Al-Buyid. The Buyids was a tribe of Daylaman of Zaidi Shiites who claimed to be descendants of the Sassanids. This period, due to its Shiite-Iranian culture, is one of the most important eras of Islamic civilization. During this period, the Arabic language alongside the Persian language became the literary language of the country and the greats of art and literature came and went to court. Mu'izz al-Dawla did not speak Arabic when capturing Baghdad. But later the Buyids came to the masters of science that they wrote poetry in Arabic. The reign of Azud al-Dawla was an era of prosperity and progress for the Buyids. The artworks of the Buyid period represent a return to the Iranian national identity while using Islamic concepts. However, there was no sudden change in the works of this period compared to the Sassanid period, and despite the Islamic standards and identity, they strongly followed the ancient methods, especially the Sassanids. One of the most prominent artifacts of this period are textiles, which are decorated with motifs taken from ancient Iran in the form of religious concepts along with Islamic verses and writings, and we can mention the special use of some of them in funeral ceremonies. It had received less attention before. This article aims to identify the factors influencing the emergence of this particular application in Buyids' textiles while studying the prevailing and influential culture and beliefs in this period, to study the designs and inscriptions of three examples of burial fabrics preserved in Cleveland and Victoria and Albert Museums addresses the question of what are the cultural factors influencing the design and use of Buyids' burial textiles? The main approach of this research for the analysis of selected textiles is culture-based design. The model used in the culture-based design is based on the model proposed by Dr. Ajdari and his teammates, which studies a phenomenon in four levels of obvious and interpretable data, views in society, ideology, and mythological attitudes. This model is based on the futures research method; CLA. The research method used in this article is interpretive-historical and the information is collected from library sources and reputable sites and finally analyzed qualitatively. The results show that the Zoroastrian beliefs, the surviving motifs of the Sassanid era, the motifs of the Islamic era, and the Shiite beliefs of Daylams have played a role in how the motifs of these textiles were formed. The Patterns such as the tree of life, angels, peacock, lion, etc., originate from the culture of Sassanid Iran, which has adapted to Islamic concepts. This combination is cleverly used in a way that leads to the creation of symbols that interact with the user Associate the familiar with the user. It is significant that the designer designed these fabrics according to their subject, with related designs and writings (death), and then woven and used them. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Historical research about textiles made from bast fibers has progressed in recent years broadening our perspectives of people's needs for textile raw materials. Despite this, analyses of textiles made of mixed fibers from a variety of plants have not received sufficient attention. Textiles were often made of blends of different bast plant fibers, which was during historical time common but is rarely mentioned in research, compounding the difficulty of accurate fiber identification. Fibers could be blended as the yarn was spun, of yarns different fibers were woven into a single fabric, and various fabrics were assembled in a range of everyday textiles. Without relying on proper analysis protocols, it is difficult of distinguish different bast fibers, and this has resulted in the misidentification of textiles in museum collections. This study addresses seven representative's handmade textiles with a focus on hemp, combined with either flax, hop, ramie or cotton. The various textile fibers identified indicate that blends were common from the Middle Ages until modern times. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The design and analysis of a compact textile antenna, exhibiting wideband operation from 2.59 to 6.67 GHz and from 10.18 to 12.98 GHz, supporting multiple communication services in S, C, X and Ku bands, is presented in this paper. The multiband and wideband operations are comprehended in a single antenna structure by introducing Triple Notch Circular Patch Antenna (TNCPA) with a Defected Ground Structure (DGS). The reduced return loss, safe electromagnetic radiation and high gain are realized using the presented geometry. The prototype of TNCPA with the Quarter Ground Structure (QGS) functioning as DGS is fabricated using a wearable cotton substrate of dimension 28 × 28 mm2 and the measured results linger close to the simulated results with stable radiation performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In recent days, a digestive abnormality is common due to modern life-style and food habits followed. For every ten adults in the world, four suffer from functional gastrointestinal (GI) disorders of varying severity. Further, this is demonstrated by a study of more than 73,000 people across 33 countries. Also, the subjects who have undergone surgery/medication may feel healthy and they cannot feel or realize the internal health disorders, resulting in severe consequences. In this regard, an electrogastrogram (EGG) has gained more significance since it is non-invasive and involves an easy process for screening digestive abnormalities. EGGs are electrical signals, which have strong association with digestion. Also, the EGG can be recorded using non-invasive/surface electrodes. In this work, two different conductive textile materials, namely stainless-steel fibers and Copper–Nickel-plated nylon, are utilised to fabricate non-invasive electrodes. Further, the developed electrodes are placed on the abdomen over the stomach and the EGG signals are acquired from healthy individuals. Also, various time and frequency domain features are extracted from two different EGG signals acquired using developed electrodes with different materials and are analysed. Additionally, the XAI, namely Shapley Additive Explanation (SHAP), technique is utilised to analyse and test the efficacy of the developed textile-based electrodes and to select the best electrode for EGG signal acquisition. This work appears to be highly significant since the developed electrode selected using the XAI tool shall possess a wide scope in wearable applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Surface treatments for textile substrates have received significant attention from researchers around the world. Ozone and plasma treatments trigger a series of surface alterations in textile substrates that can improve the anchoring of other molecules or particles on these substrates. This work aims to evaluate the effect of ozone and plasma treatments on the impregnation of polymeric microcapsules containing lavender oil in polyester fabrics (PES). Microcapsules with walls of chitosan and gum arabic were prepared by complex coacervation and impregnated in PES, plasma-treated PES, and ozone-treated PES by padding. The microcapsules were characterized for their size and morphology and the surface-treated PES was evaluated by FTIR, TGA, SEM, and lavender release. The microcapsules were spherical in shape, with smooth surfaces. The FTIR analyses of the textile substrates with microcapsules showed bands referring to the polymers of the microcapsules, but not to the lavender; this was most likely because the smooth surface of the outer wall did not retain the lavender. The mass loss and the degradation temperatures measured by TGA were similar for all the ozone-treated and plasma-treated polyester samples. In the SEM images, spherical microcapsules and the impregnation of the microcapsules of larger sizes were perceived. Through the lavender release, it was observed that the plasma and ozone treatments interfered both with the amount of lavender delivered and with the control of the delivery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]