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Microcapsules are being used in textile substrates increasingly more frequently, availing a wide spectrum of possibilities that are relevant to future research trends. Biofunctional Textiles is a new field that should be carefully studied, especially when dealing with microencapsulated essential oils. In the final step, when the active principle is delivered, there are some possibilities to quantify and simulate its doses on the skin or in the environment. At that stage, there is a phenomenon that can help to better control the delivery and the reservoir effect of the textile substrate. Depending on the chemical characteristics of the molecule to be delivered, as well as the structure and chemical nature of the fabric where it has been applied, there is physicochemical retention exerted by fibers that strongly controls the final rate of principle active delivery to the external part of the textile substrate. The study of this type of effect in two different substrates (cotton and polyester) will be described here regarding two different essential oils microencapsulated and applied to the substrates using padding technology. The experimental results of the final drug delivery demonstrate this reservoir effect in both essential oils, Postprint (published version)

Surface treatments for textile substrates have received significant attention from researchers around the world. Ozone and plasma treatments trigger a series of surface alterations in textile substrates that can improve the anchoring of other molecules or particles on these substrates. This work aims to evaluate the effect of ozone and plasma treatments on the impregnation of polymeric microcapsules containing lavender oil in polyester fabrics (PES). Microcapsules with walls of chitosan and gum arabic were prepared by complex coacervation and impregnated in PES, plasma-treated PES, and ozone-treated PES by padding. The microcapsules were characterized for their size and morphology and the surface-treated PES was evaluated by FTIR, TGA, SEM, and lavender release. The microcapsules were spherical in shape, with smooth surfaces. The FTIR analyses of the textile substrates with microcapsules showed bands referring to the polymers of the microcapsules, but not to the lavender; this was most likely because the smooth surface of the outer wall did not retain the lavender. The mass loss and the degradation temperatures measured by TGA were similar for all the ozone-treated and plasma-treated polyester samples. In the SEM images, spherical microcapsules and the impregnation of the microcapsules of larger sizes were perceived. Through the lavender release, it was observed that the plasma and ozone treatments interfered both with the amount of lavender delivered and with the control of the delivery., Peer Reviewed, Postprint (author's final draft)

The objective of this work was to functionalize with microcapsules of untreated and treated polyester fabrics with plasma and ozone. Plasma treatment was carried out using a corona discharge at 200 W, 400 w and 800 W with a constant gap between electrode and roll of 4 mm. For ozone treatment, polyester samples were exposed for 20, 30, and 45 min to ozone production by low-pressure mercury lamps. After plasma or ozone, lavender oil microcapsules were immobilized onto fabric by a conventional pad–dry–cure process, using citric acid as a crosslinking agent. The microcapsules were produced by complex coacervation between chitosan and arabic gum, with lavender oil in emulsion. The release showed that the ozone on the surface of PET (polyester) increased the affinity for the microcapsules, resulting in a greater adhesion of the microcapsules and, as consequence, more amount of oil to be liberated. On the other hand, the effect of the plasma treatment was related to physical etching, without a chemical change, and does not interfere with the affinity of the microcapsule, whose external layer is a polar polymer. The delay in the oil release from PET treated with plasma can also be related to the pore formation, which could retain the microcapsules and difficult the release of the oil. Ozone proved to be a good surface treatment to enhance the functionalization of the textile substrate, so that the oil release with time can be greatly improved., Postprint (published version)

Postprint (author's final draft)

The fight against nosocomial infections in hospitals, has promoted the use of microencapsulated essential oils on medical wearing uniforms. These types of microcapsules can be improved with the use of antimicrobial polymers in the shell structure. Chitosan is one of the most used biopolymers and the effectiveness of the treatment can be increased with the combination of different molecular weight chains of chitosan. This modification in the composition of shell structure allows controlling the rate of hydrolysis and, therefore the amount of its cationic form. The main objective of this work is to define a methodology to get microcapsules with different shell compositions, using surfactants as stabilizers in their first step. Once they have been obtained, these microcapsules will be fixed into textile substrates with the objective to use these tissues as surgical and medical clothes to spread the antibacterial effect, in sanitary staff, as well as in the own patient. In the process of microencapsulation the molecular weight distribution of polymers, influences strongly the delivery mechanisms of the active principle, as well as the chemical characteristics of the textile substrate used in every case. In this work, several chitosan biopolymers have been checked. Structural changes in the stabilization first step and the influence of the cross-linking extension have been related with the final antibacterial effect when fixed on cotton substrates, Authors want to show their acknowledgements to the institutions and companies that helped to the development of this work. Spanish Ministry of Science and Technology. TEXBICO (RTI2018-094014-B-100) that granted the necessary funds to do the experimental work and Biomedical Chitosan (Australia) and CHIBIO (China), for kindly supply the samples used in the Shell structure of microcapsules, Postprint (published version)

Biopolymeric chitosan is considered a promising encapsulating agent for tex-tile applications due to its biocompatibility, lack of toxicity, antibacterial activ-ity, high availability, and low cost. After cellulose, it is nature's most importantorganic compound. Also, chitosan has unique chemical properties due to itscationic charge in solution. Microencapsulation technologies play an impor-tant role in protecting the trapped material and in the durability of the effect,controlling the release rate. The app lication of chitosan microcapsules in tex-tiles follows the current interest of industries in functionalization technologiesthat give different properties to products, such as aroma finish, insect repel-lency, antimicrobial activity, and thermal comfort. In this sense, methods ofcoacervation, ionic gelation, and LBL are presented for the production ofchitosan-based microcapsules and methods of textile finishing that incorporatethem are presented, bath exhaustion, filling, dry drying cure, spraying, immer-sion, and grafting chemical. Finally, current trends in the textile market areidentified and guidance on future developments, Postprint (author's final draft)

Postprint (author's final draft)

Pectinases can be used to remove impurities and hydrophobic material from cotton fibers by the degradation of pectic substances. The biochemical characterization and the evaluation of process parameters that influence the enzyme’s activity are mandatory to optimize the industrial application. In the present study, a factorial experimental design was conducted to evaluate the activity of a commercial pectate lyase at different reaction conditions of temperature, pH, and nonionic surfactant concentration, aiming its application in bioscouring of textiles. The main effects of all three factors were found to be statistically significant. The second-order interactions between temperature and pH, and pH and surfactant concentration, were also important. Maximum activity on polygalacturonic acid was achieved at 60¿°C, pH 9, and without surfactant. These results provided support for the subsequent bioscouring assays, resulting in a high level of cleanliness and good wettability of knitted cotton fabric at the lowest enzyme concentration (1¿g/l), and could make textile processing more sustainable, BLC acknowledges her grant to Programa de Bolsas Universitárias de Santa Catarina (UNIEDU), JABV is thankful to Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES, project 88887.310560/2018-00), JA appreciates his grant from Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq, Grant 313458/2017-0), and DBDS would like to thank FAPESC and CAPES for his MSc. Scholarship (call 05/2019). Furthermore, the authors would like to thank Novozymes for the enzyme, as well as Graduate Program in Textile Engineering at the Federal University of Santa Catarina (UFSC – Blumenau), Laboratório Central de Microscopia Eletrônica (LCME) of the Federal University of Santa Catarina, and Chemistry Department of FURB – Universidade Regional de Blumenau for their support, Postprint (author's final draft)

With the increasing awareness of environmental protection, the development and application of novel halogen-free flame retardants have attracted a lot of attention recently. 9,10-dihydro-9-oxa-10-phosphaphenanthrene-10- oxide (DOPO) and its derivatives are regarded as one of the most promising and widely used halogen-free flame retardants among various phosphorus-containing compounds due to its superior reactivity, thermal stability and oxidation resistance. Accordingly, DOPO-containing compounds have been incorporated with versatile polymeric matrices and exhibited advanced flame retardancy performances in gaseous phase and condensed phase, Postprint (published version)

ß-Cyclodextrin (ß-CD) is an oligosaccharide composed of seven units of D-(+)-glucopyranose joined by a-1,4 bonds, which is obtained from starch. Its singular trunk conical shape organization, with a well-defined cavity, provides an adequate environment for several types of molecules to be included. Complexation changes the properties of the guest molecules and can increase their stability and bioavailability, protecting against degradation, and reducing their volatility. Thanks to its versatility, biocompatibility, and biodegradability, ß-CD is widespread in many research and industrial applications. In this review, we summarize the role of ß-CD and its derivatives in the textile industry. First, we present some general physicochemical characteristics, followed by its application in the areas of dyeing, finishing, and wastewater treatment. The review covers the role of ß-CD as an auxiliary agent in dyeing, and as a matrix for dye adsorption until chemical modifications are applied as a finishing agent. Finally, new perspectives about its use in textiles, such as in smart materials for microbial control, are presented, Postprint (published version)