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The effect of sodium lignosulfonate (LS) treatment on nylon fabric for enhancing its ultraviolet protection ability has been studied. Various concentrations of LS were applied on nylon fabric using the exhaust method and the treatment was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface design. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) is achieved, as high as 62.13 with one such LS-treated nylon fabric. The LS-treated nylon fabrics were characterized using FTIR, FESEM, Energy dispersive X-ray (EDX), and Thermo-gravimetric analysis (TGA) instruments. The UPF and color-strength (K/S) values are significantly increased with an increase in the concentration of LS without any loss of tensile properties and thermal stability. The LS treatment has excellent wash fastness.

The current review context elaborates on the engineering methods adopted by the researchers for the development of different sustainable flexible composites for use as an alternative to leather like material. This article also elaborates on the usage of different natural fibre-based cellulose, bacterial cellulose, and different plant-based compounds for the construction of leather like lifestyle products with the examination report of essential physical properties of engineered products. Besides, it elucidates the process conditions followed by the researchers for making natural fibre based flexible composite products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Defects in the raw jute are the second most important parameter in the jute grading system, as it affects the quality of yarn. Raw fibre with more defects tends to bring its price down and seriously affects the selling price of the product. Besides, it affects the process of fibre i.e. carding and spinning during yarn preparation. Currently, visual methods are in vogue in the market to assess the defects. Traditional approach of detection of defects is time consuming and needs specialized knowledge. In the present study, the feasibility of four state of art CNN models (GoogLeNet, AlexNet, ResNet50 and DarkNet53) were evaluated in defect detection with different hyper parameter settings. Models were evaluated for accuracy, precision, and F1-score. The accuracy of selected models ranged from 76.9% to 97.4%. Among all the models, DarkNet53 performed better than other models with an accuracy of 97.4%, precision 97.5% and recall 97.5% at 20 epochs and 16 batch sizes. DarkNet53 was tested again for random different defects images taken from the test set and found that the model can identify various defects effectively. The results of the present study showed that the pre-trained model coupled with a measuring approach can be used to measure the percentage of defects in raw jute fibre. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The current review context elaborates on the engineering methods adopted by the researchers for the development of different sustainable flexible composites for use as an alternative to leather like material. This article also elaborates on the usage of different natural fibre-based cellulose, bacterial cellulose, and different plant-based compounds for the construction of leather like lifestyle products with the examination report of essential physical properties of engineered products. Besides, it elucidates the process conditions followed by the researchers for making natural fibre based flexible composite products . [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Keywords: NMC Charkha; wool-cotton blend; Khadi fabrics; thermal properties; fabric comfort; ; ; ; EN NMC Charkha wool-cotton blend Khadi fabrics thermal properties fabric comfort ZH 7728 7737 10 11/21/22 20221220 NES 221220 Introduction I Khadi i is an Indian traditional fabric which was introduced by M. K. Gandhi in 1918 to make villagers self-employed and self-sustained as an alternative to machine-made imported fabric. The fabric thermal properties are also influenced by fabric thickness, fabric cover factor, and yarn linear density of the fabric. The dependent variables, i.e. air permeability, water vapor permeability, and thermal properties affected by the wool-cotton blend composition of warp, the proportion of AM wool in weft yarn, and weft yarn linear density. These results infer that wool content in warp yarn, AM wool proportion in weft yarn, and weft yarn count contribute 81.9%, while the other factors i.e. yarn and fabric structure contribute about 18%. [Extracted from the article]

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The productivity, quality and comfort aspects of Siro spun wool-cotton blended Khadi fabrics are reported in this experimental research. The technology of Siro spun yarn is also successfully introduced in New Modal (NM) Charkha for producing woolen Khadi Siro yarn. This system produces suitable two strands yarn of wool with higher productivity than conventional NM charkha. The yarns of Australian Merino (AM) and JK crossbred (JKC) wool mixes in different proportions using modified Siro Charkha were prepared. The fabrics were woven using AM-JKC mixed Siro spun yarn as a weft and wool-cotton blended spun yarn as a warp by using the Handloom weaving machine. The physical, low-stress mechanical and comfort properties of wool-cotton Siro fabrics were studied. Siro spun yarn of AM: JKC (75:25) was bulkier, more even with lower imperfections and hairiness. The tenacity and elongation of Siro spun yarns have an increasing trend with the increasing proportion of Australian Merino wool in the wool-mix. The thickness before and after the steam press of fabrics has significant difference. The blending of cotton with wool in the fabric significantly reduced the relaxation shrinkage in the warp direction, which in turn produced the more dimensionally stable fabric. The comfort in terms of thermal and air-permeability properties significantly affected with fibre composition in warp and weft yarns. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hand-spun and hand-woven textiles made of natural fibers are known as khadi fabrics. Khadi fabrics are known for their luxury, excellent handle, and comfort properties. These properties can not be obtained using the methods employed for machine-made textiles. The fabric handle is associated with low-stress mechanical properties. In this work, the low-stress mechanical properties of wool-cotton blended khadi fabrics are studied and the effect of different blend proportions of wool fibers and yarn count on the fabric properties is investigated. The combination of different wool varieties was spun using a hand-operated spinning machine (charkha) and used as weft, while the various cotton-wool blends were employed as warp. A total of 27 types of wool-cotton khadi fabrics were woven on a handloom. The low-stress mechanical properties were measured using the SiroFAST system. It was found that the extensibility, formability, shear rigidity, bending rigidity, relaxation shrinkage, and hygral expansions of fabrics were influenced by the proportions of wool blend/mix and yarn linear density. The shear and bending rigidity of wool-cotton fabric are significantly influenced by the wool content in wool-cotton blended warp yarn as well as the proportion of AM wool in weft yarn (p <.001). From a formability point of view, wool-cotton fabrics perform well during garment manufacturing irrespective of a wool type. Relaxation Shrinkage in wool-cotton fabric is higher in warp wise than weft wise and increases with increasing the amount of wool for each type of fabric. The wool dominant fabric has higher hygral expansion in the weft direction than the warp direction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sodium lignosulfonate (NLS), a biomass waste procured from paper and pulp industries as brown colour water soluble powder, is explored in this article as dye for nylon 6 fabrics in aqueous media by the exhaustion method. The fastness and functional properties of the dyed nylon 6 fabrics were studied. The dyeing process parameters were optimised using Box–Behnken response surface design and the ANOVA technique. The NLS treated dyed nylon fabric exhibited an excellent ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), as high as 62.13. The NLS dyed nylon fabrics were characterised using FTIR, FESEM, EDX and instruments. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) and colour strength (K/S) values are significantly increased with an increase in the concentration of NLS without any loss of tensile properties and thermal stability. Moreover, NLS treatment has excellent wash fastness. This dyeing process for synthetic fibre like nylon can be a cleaner and more eco-friendly approach by utilising waste biomass of paper from the pulp industries. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, the merino wool woven fabric has been treated with commercially available enzymes, i.e. transglutaminase, lipase, laccase and protease, at various concentrations (0.5–2.0% over the weight of fabric) to impart desirable shrink resistance without deterioration of the fabric properties. Protease enzyme treated wool fabric shows least area shrinkage (3.0%) followed by laccase enzyme (4.3%), lipase enzyme (4.9%) and transglutaminase enzyme (7.9%) treated fabrics, as compared to 13.3% of the untreated (blank) fabric. The specific reaction mechanism of various enzymes that cause a structural change and dimensional stability are also discussed. The tensile strength, extension-at-break, yellowness and whiteness indices of the enzyme treated fabrics are found comparable with the blank fabric, while frictional and handle properties are significantly improved. The enzyme process to impart shrink resistance to wool fabric is found sustainable, easy to scale up and due to comparable mechanical, frictional, handle, whiteness and yellowness properties, there is a potential of an industrial adaption. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper describes the tensile and frictional behavior of wool-cotton union fabrics developed using different wool-cotton blended warp yarns, and mixed wool weft yarns spun on khadi spinning system. The tenacity and elongation at break of fabric increase with the blending of cotton with JK crossbred wool in the warp direction and high content of Australian merino wool in the weft direction, however, initial modulus decreases. The static and dynamic coefficient of friction positively correlates to the wool content in warp yarn and negatively correlates with linear density and the proportion of Australian merino wool in weft yarn. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

HP Crossbred, JK Crossbred and JK Merino yarns have been spun on the New Model Charkha (NMC) spinning system to find out the suitability of Indian crossbred wool in Khadi sector. These crossbred wools produced in the north temperature region of India have been spun into medium quality yarn linear density of 42 tex. The pure crossbred wool yarns have higher U%, imperfections and hairiness index; and lower tenacity, elongation-at-break and coefficient of friction. The mixing of Australian merino wool with JK crossbred wool significantly improves yarn performance in terms of fineness (31 tex), evenness (U%), imperfections and hairiness index. The tenacity, elongation-at-break and coefficient of friction of mixed yarns increase significantly by mixing of Australian merino wool with JK crossbred wool. These findings will help in increasing the utilization of crossbred wool and reducing the costing of end products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pashmina shawls prepared from different hand spun, machine spun and blended yarns have been evaluated subjectively. The important handle properties, such as softness, smoothness, lustre and total hand value, have been assessed by sensory evaluation through expert judges of different age and gender. The correlation coefficient between the groups for individual property has been determined. The softness and smoothness values show highest agreement between different groups followed by smoothness and total hand value. The good agreement between groups indicates that the difference in pashmina shawl manufacturing and blend composition can be distinguished. The subjective test results have been compared with FAST objective values and a good correlation is observed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Natural dyes from plant sources are preferred for coloration of woolen textiles and they give dark and dull colors. Development of a woolen carpet with elegant and vivid colors from natural dyes is still scanty. Natural dye fromCoccus Cacticalled cochineal was extracted by aqueous extraction method and applied on woolen yarn in presence of five different mordants in single and combination forms. Without mordanting, cochineal dye gave bluish purple color and after mordanting, it gave range of colors from scarlet red to black colors on woolen yarn. If two mordants are applied, the final color will depend on the chelating property of dominant mordant. The dominant mordant forms more amount of coordination complex preferentially with the cochineal dye than other mordants. Woolen yarn dyed with cochineal dye in presence of single and dual mordants, showed moderate (grade 3) to very good (grade 4–5) washing fastness and moderate (grade 5) to excellent (grade 7–8) light fastness properties. It is concluded that natural dye extracted from cochineal has potential to produce selective elegant colors on woolen yarn that can improve the aesthetic value of the woolen carpet. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The present investigation deals with studies on potentiality of a colour extract from Gerardiana diversifolia as a source of natural dye, and on identification of chemical constituents responsible for dyeing ability. The efficacy of the extracted dye(s) on pashmina (Cashmere) fabrics has been evaluated for colour strength and fastness properties. Phytochemical studies reveal that the quinone and tannin are major components contributing to dyeing properties. The extracted colorant from Gerardiana diversifolia has potential to dye pashmina fabric with brown and grey shades having excellent wash and good to very good light fastness properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Natural colorants were extracted from agricultural residues like walnut shell and pomegranate rind and they applied on woolen fabric with eco-friendly metallic mordants. They have produced pale and dark shades with very good to excellent fastness properties. Pomegranate colorant shows better fastness, color strength and color depth than walnut colorant. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Natural colorants were extracted from agricultural residues like bark from Kamala tree and husk of onion and they applied on woolen fabric with eco-friendly metallic mordants. They have produced pale shades with very good to excellent fastness properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wool scoured using ultrasound irradiation at intermediate stages has been analysed and compared with the wool scoured without ultrasonic energy. The conventional recipe is modified with 25% reduction in chemical concentration, time and temperature. The scouring efficiency is measured in terms of residual grease content. Ultrasound energy effectively removes grease with lower concentration of chemicals, temperature and time. Ultrasound subjected to all bath scouring has lowest residual grease content. However, the highest improvement in whiteness is observed during ultrasound irradiation on rinsing baths. It is also observed that the combination of ultrasound and alkali adversely affects whiteness and yellowness. Scanning electron microscope analysis shows no cuticle damage after ultrasound exposure on wool fibre. In addition, the chemical properties of wool are not changed due to ultrasound treatment. The mean fibre diameter, single fibre strength and moisture content do not show significant change after ultrasound irradiation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, attempts have been made to utilize the coarse wool for the production of felt for technical textile applications. The feltability of coarse wool is found to be very low due to larger fibre diameter, less number of scales per cross-section as compared to fine wools. Hence, it is blended with different proportion of fine wool for preparing the felt with acceptable norms. Effort has also been made to partially remove the kemp fibre by passing the coarse wool through a woolen breaker card. The blend level of such processed coarse wool and fine wool is optimized in terms of feltability behavior. Technical felts of three different qualities have been prepared using optimized blend of coarse and fine wools and their performance properties like thermal insulation, resilience and abrasion resistance are evaluated. The results show that coarse wool in blends with medium fine wool in the ratio of 60:40 can be utilized for the preparation of technical felts. The developed felts can be used as thermal insulation and sound absorption panels, and for oil and chemical absorption applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pashmina, popularly known as 'Cashmere', is well known for its fineness, warmth, softness, desirable aesthetic value, elegance and timelessness in fashion. It is most luxurious, softer and warmer than superfine merino wool. The word pashmina is originated from a word 'pashm' means 'soft gold' in local language, and 'wool' in Persian language. India produces about 40-50 tonnes of fibre annually. The fibre is mostly used for preparing shawls with intricate designs by the artisans of Srinagar. An attempt has been made to provide comprehensive review covering production, processing and utilization aspects of pashmina fibre. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An attempt has been made to compare the quality of pashmina shawls developed on traditional and woollen handlooms using both hand-spun and machine-spun yams for various physico-mechanical parameters. The experimental plan includes preparation of both hand-spun and machine-spun yams followed by the preparation of pashmina shawls from these yams on both traditional and woollen handlooms, and their quality evaluation. Number of fibres/cross-section, count, elongation percentage, tenacity and coefficient of friction show significant difference between hand-spun and machine-spun yams. The quality evaluation tests of fabrics reveal that weight/m², thickness, picks/inch, extension percentage, bending rigidity, frictional properties and total hand value show significant difference, whereas ends/inch, breaking load, tenacity, bending length, abrasion loss and shrinkage loss do not show significant difference. The study reveals that the overall quality of pashmina shawls developed on traditional loom using hand-spun yam is better than the other types of shawls developed and studied. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pashmina fibre has its celebratory both in national and international level due to the development of high fashion garments and novelty products. Pashmina products are mainly produced by the skilled artisans in small scale cottage sector of Jammu & Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh with their traditional technologies since 1700's. Artisans are devoting more man time for each product. However they did not fetch worthful remuneration for their skills since there is no proper marketing of the Pashmina products. Pashmina fibre has similar characteristics to fine wool, even though there is no novel finishes streamlined for their products. The development of novel value addition for pashmina products can meet out the requirements of fashion fabrics. It can also fetch more income for artisans those are involved in pashmina products. This paper highlights the conventional processing involved in value addition of pashmina products with focuse on their future prospective for improving their demand. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The effect of different softening treatments on low stress mechanical properties and hand values 6f fabrics produced from Indian wool and their blends has been studied. The extensibility, tensile resilience and coefficient of friction of the fabrics significantly (p>0.05) increase after softening treatments, whereas the bending and shear rigidities and their hysteresis, and compressional resilience reduce. The Koshi (stiffness) values of wool and wool blended fabrics decrease by 5-10% of that of untreated fabrics after softening treatments. However, the Numeri (smoothness) and Fukurami (fullness and softness) values increase by 10-40%. The fabrics treated with cationic and amino silicone softeners show total hand value (THV) higher than that of untreated fabrics; THV increases by 5-20% and 10-20% for winter suit and jacket application respectively. The amino silicone softener is more effective than cationic softener. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study deals with the development of equations to predict abrasion loss and carpet hand value (CHV) of hand-knotted carpets. Best-fit equation obtained from regression analysis shows that the abrasion loss depends on fibre diameter and number of medullated fibres present in the yarn as well as pile density of carpet. The regression coefficient is found to be 0.47, which is highly significant (p<0.01). The best-fit equation for CHV reveals that it depends on pile height, carpet thickness and pile density. The coefficient of regression is found to be 0.77, which is significant at p<0.01. Based on these equations, a software is developed using C language which can predict abrasion loss and CHV within the range of error ± σ value. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The frictional, compressional and thermal properties of handmade felts prepared from wool, rabbit hair, camel hair and their blends have been studied. Felts made from rabbit hair and its blends are smoother, warmer and softer as compared to those made from camel hair and sheep wool. Felts produced from sheep wool possess highest coefficient of friction and resiliency than those produced from camel hair. Frictional properties of felts are governed by fibre diameter, medullation content and compressibility of felt, whereas thermal behaviour is influenced by fibre diameter only. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Equine hair can be used as a textile raw-material for the manufacture of furnishing fabrics and carpets. Processing of this fibre in pure form is not advisable since it is very coarse (40-50 micron). However, its blending up to 30% imparts special effect to the product without affecting the carding and spinning processes. Further, the product does not need any dyeing since a natural colour is provided by the fibre itself. Sorting of the fibre into different categories according to colour, its carding, spinning, weaving, wet process etc. are reported in this communication. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wool fibre has been blended separately with camel hair and angora rabbit wool in different proportions and felts of different thicknesses and densities produced as per Indian standards. The felts developed from medium type wool and rabbit hair give lowest density and thickness as required for extra soft quality (64s) felt. It is also observed that the performance characteristics of felt, i.e. tensile strength and splitting resistance, mainly depend on thickness of felt. The correlation between these two is also very high. The felts developed with pure camel hair give highest tensile strength and quite comparable splitting resistance and density with pure wool felt for making soft quality (48s) felt; however, it gives higher abrasion loss. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sixty-two different carpet samples have been evaluated fur Carpet Aesthetic Value (CAV) and Carpel Hand Value (CAV) subjectively by ten differential judges. Each carpet sample was considered individually and an estimated score was awarded on an arbitrary scale between 0 and 5. The rank correlations were worked out among different judges for CAV and CHV. The correlation coefficients for all the samples are found to be 0.37, 0.49 and 0.34 for CAV and 0.55, 0.53 and 0.52 for CHV for all the judges, manufacturers and users groups respectively, which are highly significant (p<0.01). This indicates that all the judges are in close agreement. The analysis to examine the influence of fibre mix, carpet constructional parameters and finishing treatment reveals that the CHV is influenced by fibre mix and it increases with the increase in knot density and pile height upto some level, whereas antique and herbal wash treatments reduce the CHV value. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Attempts have been made to develop natural dye based antimoth finishing process using natural dyes as an alternative of chemical based process. Natural dyes obtained from different sources are used to dye the woollen fabric and then screened for antimoth efficacy. Woollen fabrics dyed with extract of silver oak leaves, wall nut husk and pomegranate rind have shown highest resistance to moth attack. The screened sources carrying antimoth property are then subjected to phytochemical analysis along with non-carrying natural dyes for analyzing their chemical constituents. The result reveals that the chemical constituent of natural dyes plays a crucial role in determining antimoth efficacy. The amount of tannin content present in the natural dyes can be taken as an indicator to determine the antimoth efficacy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dyeing condition for Pashmina wool yarn using natural colourant from cochineal was characterized for dye bath exhaustion, K/S value and fastness properties. It is observed that cochineal dye exhausted better at 50-60°C in 120-150 minutes than other conditions. The colourant was exhausted between 80 and 95% with K/S value ranging from 0.526 to 0.816 with very good washing (4-5) and light fastness (6-7) at standard condition. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]