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An open-source quantitative model for predicting coastal foredune growth at monthly to multi-annual (meso)temporal scales is developed. The model builds on the established fetch framework as a surrogate for the complex micro-scale aeolian processes on the beach, to which rain and groundwater-induced spatiotemporal surface moisture dynamics are added as factors limiting aeolian sand supply to foredunes. The model shows great skill in an application at Egmond aan Zee, The Netherlands, with a predicted growth of 16.5 m3/m/yr comparing favourably to the observed growth of 17.3 m3/m/yr. Rain, surface moisture dynamics as well as beach width reduction by storm-induced elevated sea levels are shown to be important factors that jointly reduce meso-scale sand supply below the potential (i.e., unlimited) maximum, in our case study by almost 5 m3/m/yr. These factors are most relevant for strong (here, above 15.5 m/s) onshore winds. Consistent with expectations from the literature, meso-scale foredune growth results primarily from moderately strong (9.5–12.5 m/s) shore-oblique winds, which are frequent and do not result in supply-limited conditions. At the study site these winds are most common in winter and hence foredune growth is predicted to vary seasonally, consistent with the observations. Because of the promising results we believe that our model has potential for quantifying how quickly a foredune can recover after an episodic erosion event because of storm waves.

For the development of climate-resilient coastal management strategies, which focus on challenges in the decades to come, it is critical to incorporate spatial and temporal variability of coastline changes. This is particularly true for the mud-dominated coastline of Suriname, part of the Guianas, where migrating subtidal mudbanks cause a cyclic instability of erosion and accretion of the coast that can be directly related to interbank and bank phases. The coastline hosts extensive mangrove forests, providing valuable ecosystem services to local communities. Recent studies on mudbank dynamics in Suriname predominantly focused on large-scale trends without accounting for local variability, or on local changes considering the dynamics of a single mudbank over relatively short time scales. Here we use a remote sensing approach, with sufficient spatial and temporal resolution and full spatial and temporal coverage, to quantify the influence of mudbank migration on spatiotemporal coastline dynamics along the entire coast of Suriname. We show that migration of six to eight subtidal mudbanks in front of the Suriname coast has a strong imprint on local coastline dynamics between 1986 and 2020, with an average 32 m/yr accretion during mudbank presence and 4 m/yr retreat of the coastline during mudbank absence. Yet, coastal erosion can still occur when mudbanks are present and coastal aggregation may happen in the absence of mudbanks, exemplifying local variability and thus suggesting the importance of other drivers of coastline changes. The novel remote sensing workflow allowed us to analyse local spatial and temporal variations in the magnitude and timing of expanding and retreating trajectories. Our results demonstrate that it is essential that all coastal behaviours, including changes that cannot be explained by the migration of mudbanks, are included in multi-decadal management frameworks that try to explain current variability, and predict future coastline changes in Suriname.

The SWAN-Mud model was used to simulate the effect of wave damping by high concentration mud banks. A case study for the coast of Suriname was worked out as an example.

Ebb-tidal deltas are highly dynamic environments affected by both waves and currents that approach the coast under various angles. Among other bedforms of various scales, these hydrodynamics create small-scale bedforms (ripples), which increase the bed roughness and will therefore affect hydrodynamics and sediment transport. In morphodynamic models, sediment transport predictions depend on the roughness height, but the accuracy of these predictors has not been tested for field conditions with strongly mixed (wave–current dominated) forcing. In this study, small-scale bedforms were observed in the field with a 3D Profiling Sonar at five locations on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, the Netherlands. Hydrodynamic conditions ranged from wave dominated to current dominated, but were mixed most of the time. Small-scale ripples were found on all studied parts of the delta, superimposed on megaripples. Even though a large range of hydrodynamic conditions was encountered, the spatio-temporal variations in small-scale ripple dimensions were relatively small (height n ͌ 0.015 m, length λ ͌ 0.11 m). Also, the ripples were always highly three-dimensional. These small dimensions are probably caused by the fact that the bed consists of relatively fine sediment. Five bedform height predictors were tested, but they all overestimated the ripple heights, partly because they were not created for small grain sizes. Furthermore, the predictors all have a strong dependence on wave- and current-related velocities, whereas the ripple heights measured here were only related to the near-bed orbital velocity. Therefore, ripple heights and lengths in wave–current-dominated, fine-grained coastal areas (D50 < 0.25 mm) may be best estimated by constant values rather than values dependent on the hydrodynamics. In the case of the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, these values were found to be n=0.015 m and λ=0.11 m.

The existence of sandy beaches relies on the onshore transport of sand by waves during post-storm conditions. Most operational sediment transport models employ wave-averaged terms, and/or the instantaneous cross-shore velocity signal, but the models often fail in predictions of the onshore-directed transport rates. An important reason is that they rarely consider the phase relationships between wave orbital velocity and the suspended sediment concentration. This relationship depends on the intra-wave structure of the bed shear stress and hence on the timing and magnitude of turbulence production in the water column. This paper provides an up-to-date review of recent experimental advances on intra-wave turbulence characteristics, sediment mobilization, and suspended sediment transport in laboratory and natural surf zones. Experimental results generally show that peaks in the suspended sediment concentration are shifted forward on the wave phase with increasing turbulence levels and instantaneous near-bed sediment concentration scales with instantaneous turbulent kinetic energy. The magnitude and intra-wave phase of turbulence production and sediment concentration are shown to depend on wave (breaker) type, seabed configuration, and relative wave height, which opens up the possibility of more robust predictions of transport rates for different wave and beach conditions.

Based on high-resolution laboratory data of instantaneous surface elevation and fluid velocity associated with the propagation of short waves over a gently sloping beach (GLOBEX project), the present work compares two methods for predicting the wave setup. A one-dimensional (cross-shore) model is considered to solve the balance equation that links the pressure gradient induced by the mean surface elevation profile with the wave radiation stress (including wave roller) and bottom stress profiles. When compared to measurements and using a wave-by-wave approach, the mean elevation appears to be significantly better predicted with a nonlinear approach based on stream function theory than with the commonly used linear approach based on Airy wave theory. At the shoreline, the linear method overestimates the wave setup by at least about (Formula presented.) while this error is globally reduced by a factor 2 to 4 in the nonlinear case. In the framework of this study, the combined contribution of bottom stress and wave roller to the wave setup appears secondary since it accounts for about (Formula presented.) of the predicted setup at the shoreline. Alternative computational methods are also considered to model the wave setup. In the linear case, using a spectral instead of the wave-by-wave approach greatly improves the wave setup predictions. This improvement is related to the disparity between the representative wave height (and thus the wave energy) obtained from spectral and wave-by-wave analysis when short-wave nonlinearity becomes significant.

Waves and water level setup during storms can create overwashing flows across barrier islands. Overwashing flows can cause erosion, barrier breaching, and inlet formation, but their sediments can also be deposited and form washover fans. These widely different outcomes remain difficult to predict. Here we suggest that a breach develops when the sediment volume transported by overwashing flows exceeds the barrier subaerial volume. We form a simple analytical theory that estimates overwashing flows from storm characteristics, barrier morphology, and dune vegetation, and which can be used to assess washover deposition and breaching likelihood. Our theory suggests that barrier width and storm surge height are two important controls on barrier breaching. We test our theory with the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic model Delft3D as well as with field observations of 21 washover fans and 6 breaches that formed during Hurricane Sandy. There is reasonable correspondence for natural but not for developed barrier coasts, where traditional sediment transport equations do not readily apply. Our analytical formulations for breach formation and overwash deposition can be used to improve long-term barrier island models.

Nearshore sandbars are characteristic features of sandy surf zones and have been observed with a variety of geometries in cross-shore (e.g. location) and longshore direction (e.g. planform). Although the behaviour of sandbars has been studied extensively on spatial scales up to kilometres and timescales up to years, it remains challenging to observe and explain their behaviour on larger spatial and temporal scales, especially in locations where coastline curvature can be prominent. In this paper, we study a data set with 38 years of coastal profiles, collected with alongshore intervals of 50 m, along the 34 km-long curved sandy shoreline of Sylt island, Germany. Sylt's shoreline has an orientation difference of ~20° between the northern and southern half of the island. We found that the decadal coastal profiles on the southern half show features of a low-tide terrace and a sandbar located further from the shoreline (~441 m). On the nothern half, the sandbar was located closer to the shoreline (~267 m) and was less pronounced, while the profiles show transverse bar and rip features. The alongshore planform also differed systematically and significantly along the two island sides. The sandbar on the southern island half, with alongshore periodicity on a larger length scale (~2240 m), was coupled out-of-phase to the shoreline, while no phase coupling was observed for the sandbar with periodicity on a shorter length scale (~670 m) on the northern half. We related the observed geometric differences of the sandbars to the difference in the local wave climate along Sylt, imposed by the shoreline shape. Our observations imply that small alongshore variations in wave climate, due to the increasing shoreline curvature on larger spatial scales, can lead to significant alongshore differences in the decadal evolution of coastal profiles, sandbars and shorelines. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd