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Twelve mordanted and cochineal dyed modem wool samples were subjected to scanning electron microscopy and energy dispersive X-ray spectrometry (SEM-EDS) analysis. The analyses for metallic elements matched in all cases those actually used in the preparation. The mordants detected contained the metallic ele- ments: aluminum, chromium, copper, iron, and tin. SEM photomicrographs were also examined for the effects of mordanting on fiber surfaces. Atomic absorption (AA) analysis of the samples is also reported.

Thirteen silk fibers from seven different historical silk textiles were subjected to EDS analysis. The major metallic elements detected were aluminum, iron, calcium, silicon and potassium. No evidence for copper, chromium, tin or zinc was found. These results were compared to analyses of known mordanted silk samples.

Samples of modern wool, silk and cotton woven fabrics were mordanted with five common dyeing mor- dants: potassium aluminum sulfate, cupric sulfate, ferrous sulfate, stannous chloride and potassium dichromate. Samples were observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and metallic elements detected by energy disper- sive X-ray spectrometry (EDS). The results and limitations of the detection process are discussed and compared to other analytical procedures. The application of this proce- dure to historical textiles for analysis of metallic mordants and certain dyes is discussed.