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Mass manufactured garments for women have been around since the beginning of the twentieth century. With mass production, a 'standardization' of sizing was needed. Standardization of clothing was difficult as bodies were (and still today) not statistically proportionate and clothing was not one size fits all. To tackle the 'difficult' to fit – fat women, known as stout – manufacturers and retailers devised myriad sized numbering systems to accommodate different shaped fat bodies. They introduced half, odd and extra sizes along with stylish, stubby and old-fashioned stouts to create perfectly proportioned and specially designed garments to fit stout women with little to no alterations. These systems were confusing for consumers, retailers and manufacturers as no sizing system corresponded with any sort of standardization among businesses. This frustration further relegated fat women to the fringes of the apparel industry as undesirable and unfashionable. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: The consumption of plus-size clothing is part of a growing market, but it is always surrounded by cloudy issues, such as the lack of a precise direction when it comes to producing and selling these garments and the prejudice surrounding the various areas of the fat body. Employing a systematic review, this paper aims to understand the consumption of plus-size clothing through an in-depth analysis of studies published in various areas on the subject. Design/Methodology/Approach: A systematic review was conducted in the WEB OF SCIENCE and SCOPUS databases, and 35 pertinent articles published up to the year 2020 were identified, read and analyzed in detail in this paper. Findings: The articles originated three thematic categories: Plus-size Consumption, which deals with consumer experience with the industry; Plus-size in the Media, which addresses aspects of advertising and plus-size models; Plus-size Identity, which covers identity formation and social influences. Research Limitations/Implications: Fourteen theoretical gaps were pointed out to be worked on by future studies, comprising online retailing, identity, demographic, contextual, methodological, cultural, and social issues. Originality/value: The present study represents pioneering work in the field of research on plussize clothing, and, to the best of our knowledge, it is the first of its kind to conduct a comprehensive and systematic analysis of studies published in various areas related to this topic. While the plus-size apparel and retail market remain shrouded in nebulous issues, this research stands out as a valuable contribution by providing profound insights into consumption in this segment. Moreover, by identifying theoretical gaps and offering suggestions for future research, the study promotes advancements in knowledge and understanding of this emerging area. Its academic significance and potential impact on the industry make it crucial to developing more informed and inclusive strategies for the plus-size fashion sector. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Past research suggests that sexualized women are dehumanized and viewing sexualized images negatively impacts viewers' body image; however, plus-size women are mostly absent from this research. The current studies investigate how sexualization impacts dehumanization of plus-size women and participants' body image. In Study 1 (N = 277, M age = 19.52, SD =1.77) men and women viewed images of plus-size and thin sexualized and non-sexualized women and rated the women on traits linked to dehumanization. Results indicated that sexualized thin targets were perceived as less human than plus-size sexualized and non-sexualized targets. Plus-size sexualized targets were also perceived as less human than plus-size non-sexualized targets. In Study 2 (N = 500, M age = 18.98, SD = 1.51) we investigated the impact of viewing sexualized images on participants' feelings about their own body. Results indicated that sexualization, but not body size, impacted women's objectified body consciousness. Men's body esteem was impacted by the body size of the image. Perceived race of the image also impacted feelings of body control for both men and women. Taken together these results highlight that sexualization, at any body size, impacts women's views about themselves and sexualized women, at any body size, are dehumanized. • Sexualization prompted dehumanization of women, regardless of their body-size. • Perceptions of sexualized women seems to differ based on their body-size. • Sexualized images increased objectified body consciousness of women. • Body size did not impact body esteem of women but did impact men. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Physical activity can lead to the displacement of the female breasts causing psychological and physical discomfort or even breast pain. It is suggested for all exercising females to protect the breasts with additional support and restriction against displacement. The purpose of this research was to introduce the use of 4D scanning technology to understand breast shape in motion. Twenty-six female participants who identified themselves as wearing Missy Size 18 were recruited for scanning. Three most common bust measurements were tracked in dynamic states and compared with the static state. The results of this study can benefit product development of female wearable products that require a high degree of fit and mobility at the upper torso. In addition, a protocol to handle and analyse 4D data for application in product design was developed to inform future research. The promises and challenges of the 4D body scanning technology were also discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Western fashion is constantly evolving and in order to obtain notoriety, brands need to positively connect with consumers. Individuals who wear plus-sizes are acutely aware of their reduced clothing choices and rely on language cues to find clothing. Unfortunately, the categorisation of plus-size consumers is fraught with discord and frustration. Fashion communication should consider consumer needs and preferences. However, the language used to classify plus-size consumers has yet to be examined. Plus-size women were recruited online to rate twelve terms associated with plus-size women’s clothing. The survey collected a total of 324 responses of age, height, weight and ratings of terms used to classify plus-size apparel, such as Women’s, Curvy. Data were analysed using descriptive statistics and analysis of variance to compare differences considering age and body mass. This study revealed 96% of the sample ranked the classification Women’s higher than Plus-Size. The study offers insights into how plus-size consumers view sizing communications. It also offers a useful ranking of terms that fashion companies can adopt to ensure they are communicating in language that the intended consumer prefers. This study contributes to research on social identity of clothing size, plus-size consumer experiences, and further validates the multidimensional challenges faced by plus-size consumers.

This article explores the curious intersections of stoutwear design, Gestalt Psychology, and architectural discourse in early twentieth-century American fashion media. In doing so, it focuses principally on trade media, style guides and advertisements that grappled with the perceived flaws of the stout woman’s physique and how sophisticated design principles, if properly handled, could create the appearance of bodily slenderness. By moving beyond the biological determinism of contemporary obesity discourse, this article argues that ideas about stoutness and, more specifically, what constituted a stout body, were produced through attempts to contain, control, and correct the fat, female body in fashion design discourse. By further embedding this research within a broader consideration of the relationship between bodies, dress, architecture, and modernist design thinking, this article argues that the mediums and discourses of fashion can open up pathways for thinking about the body itself as “designed.”

Through remote wardrobe interviews with five self-identified infinifat participants, this paper explores how those existing in a body larger than a US dress-size 32 access fashion. The majority of research that has occurred at the intersection of fat studies and fashion studies has focused on the fashion and dressing experiences of women who fit the conventional definition of “plus-size.” Commercially available, mass-produced fashion options drop off dramatically for women larger than a US dress-size 28 and become almost non-existent for those who are a size 32 or larger. By focusing on infinifat or superfat people who exist beyond a size 32 I draw attention to the impact that the lack of access to fashion has on the subjectivities infinifat people can perform. The findings in this paper build from existing literature on plus-size dressing that focuses on limitations in identity construction and performance experienced by those who are able to access commercially available plus-size fashion. Without readily available, situationally-appropriate clothing, infinifat and superfat people are limited in the subjectivities they can perform and are excluded from specific social spaces. This exclusion serves to remarginalize an already marginalized group and is felt most acutely by those who embody additional marginalized identity markers, such as those who are racialized or living in poverty. In this way, the findings presented in this paper further address the infinifat-sized gain existing literature on plus-size dressing and lay the foundation for future work that engages with the infinifatshion community.

This study aims to describe the process of building the plus-size fashion market based on the theoretical perspective of building markets. The research is characterized as qualitative and descriptive and had data collection through interviews, non-participant observation, and documentary research. As main results, two factors mark the beginning of the construction of this market, which are: (a) increase in the population's obesity and (b) acceptance of the body by the obese population. Several actors were identified who participated in the process of building the plus-size market, especially social networks (blogs). As market practices, the low influence of regulatory practices was noted, especially about the standardization of product size grids. Regarding representational practices, there is an increase in the speech in favor of the plus-size market, placing this niche as an opportunity for entrepreneurs and favoring the acceptance of the body by the population. Finally, concerning exchange practices, there were similarities to those found in fashion markets in general. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although a mainstay of popular fashion discourse, the notion of "figure flattery" is an enduringly neglected concept in the fashion literature. In seeking to partially fill this gap, this article engages in a close examination of the slenderizing design discourses of the "stoutwear" industry—the historical precursor to today's "plus-size" fashions—in order to flesh out a working theory of figure flattery. Drawing upon a close reading of extant advertisements and design commentary published in the popular fashion press and industry trade journals dating to between the years 1915 and 1930, or the peak of stoutwear production, this article aims to show how stoutwear was not merely made to fit the stout body, but to also help the wearer to fit in, socially and aesthetically. Through this analysis, this article situates fashion as a productive site in which fashions for the stout woman were not only created, but in which the stout body was itself constructed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Current retail industry figures note a growth in the women's plus size market. This increase has especially been evident with the increase in the sales of women's plus-size clothing. Given this increase, it is important for apparel retailers to grasp an understanding of the unique apparel needs plus-size women may posses. In addition, past research has shown that certain ethnicities may view being categorized as plus-size more positively than others. Thus, the purpose of this paper is to gain a holistic understanding of the plus-size experience, and examine how this experience impacts their behaviors, shopping motivations, apparel demands, and ethnic perspective. A qualitative study was conducted to assess these topics, and primary data collection was executed through semi-structured, in-depth interviews of 31 plus-size females who purchased plus-size clothing, size 14 and above, within the past six months. Upon data being collected, transcribed verbatim, and analyzed thematically, three key themes were identified: (1) Evolution of Society Against Plus, (2) Size & Ethnicity Matter, and (3) Separate But Not Equal to Missy. Each theme aided in describing the distinct experience of the plus-size female consumer. This paper, in turn, provides apparel marketers and retailers knowledge that will help them better target their plussize offerings to better suit their customers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beauty is a reflection of the ideals of society at any given point in history. Currently, in western society a tall thin silhouette is considered the ideal figure for females. The apparel industry reflects this ideal in both the design and marketing of fashion. Although this may be the ideal it is not the reality. It is estimated that 70 percent of adult females in the US wear apparel sized fourteen or larger, which is considered plus-size by the apparel industry. Past research has revealed that the latest clothing styles featured in advertisements are often not available in plus-sizes; and participants have reported they often experience difficulty finding garments they find appealing and that permit them to express their personal style. This mixed-methods study used Rosenburg's ten-item self-esteem scale to explore the relationship between being a plus-size woman and self-esteem among African American, Caucasian, and Latina women. 3D body scans were taken and in-depth interviews conducted with participants. Significant differences regarding self-esteem and being a plus-size woman were observed among ethnicity, income, education, relationship status, and whether or not the participant had children, indicating multiple variables impact how a woman feels about herself when compared to the social ideal. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Between 1986 and 1988, AmericanVogueran a series of advertorials entitled “Fashion Plus.” Documenting the mid-1980s explosion of designer-led plus-size fashion, the series offers a rare glimpse into an overlooked moment in the history of large-size dress; however, it also stands as a singular foray into plus-size fashion forVogue—a periodical that marginalizes representations of non-normative bodies. While its mere inclusion within the pages ofVogueis historically significant, this article will shift its focus by examining the crucial roleposeplayed in the advertorial’s postmodern “refashioning” of the fat female body. While interrogating the concept of fashioning as a process that occurs at the intersection of text, image, body and garment, this article also considers how an embodied vernacular of fashion posing transformed the fat female body, making it “fit” for the pages ofVogue. Indeed, by striking identifiably “modelesque” poses, the models of “Fashion Plus” upset deeply entrenched norms of imaging the fat female body, while wideningVogue’s notoriously narrow definition of beauty. Framing the plus-size body as a product of postmodern notions of identity construction, this article also reflects upon the relationship between dress, discourse and the fleshy body in the construction of identity. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to explore apparel-related issues experienced by plus-size female teens around the functional, expressive, and aesthetic consumer needs model. The goal was to uncover any issues which have interfered with or restricted apparel purchases. Design/methodology/approach - A mixed methods research design was employed to collect body measurements with the use of a 3D body scanner and conduct in-depth interviews with a convenience sample of 30 plus-size females aged 12-17 years and their families. Findings - The current US sizing system does not fully meet the measurement needs of this study group. Functional fit requirements often dictate the apparel purchased by plus-size female teens. Expressive and aesthetic desires often go unfulfilled by the apparel that satisfied their functional needs. Confusion over apparel size designations interfered with brand and store loyalty and resulted in fewer purchases from both physical and online stores. Practical implications - Plus-sizes are the fastest growing segment of apparel and offer brands and retailers substantial opportunity for market growth. Plus-size female teens desire to increase their apparel purchases, but have been hindered by certain product development and merchandising practices. Participants made suggestions for brands and retailers to increase sales in the plus-size female teen market. Originality/value - This study is unique by uncovering previously unknown issues regarding apparel fit and purchase behaviors of the plus-size female teens as well as relating participant's advice to the apparel industry on this target market. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated apparel issues experienced by plus-size female teens aged 12-17 in the context of the functional, expressive, and aesthetic consumer needs model. A mixed-methods research design was used with a convenience sample of 30 female teens with body mass indexes in the overweight or obese categories. Three-dimensional (3D) body scans were taken and in-depth interviews conducted with participants and their family members. Findings indicated that expressive and aesthetics desires were often sacrificed to obtain apparel that addressed functional needs. ASTM International (formerly the American Society for Testing and Materials) standardized sizes for Juniors need to be revised to include plus-sizes and to improve the expressive and aesthetic attributes of apparel for plus-size female teens. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to gauge the emerging needs for the plus-size footwear market, this study tested the following four hypotheses: 1) as BMI increases, foot morphology changes; 2) increased BMI influences consumers' footwear selection criteria; 3) increased BMI negatively affects consumers' footwear fit; and 4) increased BMI negatively affects consumers' satisfaction with the current footwear market. One hundred and twenty-one female college students were recruited from a large 4-year U.S. university, and only Caucasian data (n=99) were used for statistical analysis. Prior to 3D scanning, a short questionnaire was administered to assess the participants' footwear selection criteria and satisfaction with the current footwear offerings, as well as demographic information. Anthropometry of the participants' feet was measured, using a 3D foot scanner (INFOOT® by I-ware). Results showed that BMI positively affected the increase of anthropometric measurements; as BMI increased, the participants indicated significantly higher scores on shoe length and insole cushion and a lower score on fashion trendiness in the perceived importance of footwear selection criteria; they tended to wear improperly fitting shoes to accommodate wider and thicker feet; and they were significantly less satisfied with the current market than those with a lower BMI. Strong relationships in all four hypotheses were evident, and findings of this study urged the footwear manufacturing industry to recognize the unfulfilled niche market for the growing population of plus-size consumers. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

The apparel retail landscape in the United States has undergone dramatic changes during the past decade. In most major segments, apparel retailers have faced market saturation combined with slow spending growth. Furthermore, the early years of the 21st century have produced an age of anxiety and uncertainty that has resulted in fear and inertia among consumers and retailers alike. What, then, is the outlook for apparel retailing in this uncertain world? As an attempt to generate viable answers to this question, the researchers identify environmental change factors that may affect the future of apparel retailing. Three major forces transforming apparel retailing in the United States--changes related to plus-size, aging, and Hispanic/Latino consumers--emerge from the environmental scanning procedures. Each force pushes apparel retailers toward a new mentality of defining their customers and making strategic decisions for long-term prosperity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]