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A wave-group-resolving model is used to investigate the driving mechanisms and the spatiotemporal variability of very low frequency (VLF) fluctuations of a headland deflection rip, measured during a 4-m oblique wave event. Surfzone eddies (SZE) occurring in the presence of a strongly sheared longshore current V at a longshore-uniform beach are first modeled. The spectral signature and the variability of SZE are displayed and compared with the literature. The model is then used to explore the dynamics of vorticity in the surf zone and against a headland under energetic oblique wave conditions. The resulting weakly sheared V is found to host large-scale SZE propagating toward the headland at a speed decreasing seaward. Vorticity animations and spectral diagrams indicate that VLF fluctuations of the deflection rip are driven by the deflection of the upstream SZE. In line with measurements, periods from 40 min to 1 h dominate the spectrum hundreds of meters from the headland at low tide. At high tide, vorticity spectra in the rip are much narrower than in the surf zone, suggesting that the headland enforces the merging of SZE. This mechanism is further analyzed using idealized simulations with varying headland lengths, aiming at extending traditional deflection patterns at the VLF scale. Finally, we discuss the existence of a continuum in SZE driving mechanisms, going from fully wave-group-driven to both wave-group- and shear-instability-driven SZE for weakly and strongly sheared V, respectively. This continuum suggests the importance of wave groups to produce SZE under energetic wave conditions.

Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR) time series acquired by a single Global Navigation System Satellites (GNSS) antenna are used to retrieve water levels during asymmetric tides and tidal bores in the Garonne River. As height variations are important, a dynamic SNR approach was applied, instead of the static case, to estimate the relative antenna height from the dominant frequencies. Evaluation of the results is performed against pressure measurements. Results on asymmetric tides are quite good overall $\text{(ubRMSD}=0.55\mathrm{m}$ ), and way better in the falling tide $(\text{ubRMSO}=0.12\mathrm{m}$ ), where the vertical velocity of the reflecting surface $h$ . is lower than in the rising part $\text{(ubRMSD}=0.59\mathrm{m}$ ). The dynamic SNR method is limited for high h values as it is not able to extract the correct frequencies. For this reason, extremely rapid variations of the river surface during the tidal bore could not be retrieved.

This paper examines the potential of an optical flow video-based technique to estimate wave-filtered surface currents in the nearshore where wave-breaking induced foam is present. This approach uses the drifting foam, left after the passage of breaking waves, as a quasi-passive tracer and tracks it to estimate the surface water flow. The optical signature associated with sea-swell waves is first removed from the image sequence to avoid capturing propagating waves instead of the desired foam motion. Waves are removed by applying a temporal Fourier low-pass filter to each pixel of the image. The low-pass filtered images are then fed into an optical flow algorithm to estimate the foam displacement and to produce mean velocity fields (i.e., wave-filtered surface currents). We use one week of consecutive 1-Hz sampled frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d’Amour beach (Anglet, SW France) under high-energy conditions with significant wave height ranging from 0.8 to 3.3 m. Optical flow-computed velocities are compared against time-averaged in situ measurements retrieved from one current profiler installed on a submerged reef. The computed circulation patterns are also compared against surf-zone drifter trajectories under different field conditions. Optical flow time-averaged velocities show a good agreement with current profiler measurements: coefficient of determination (r2)= 0.5–0.8; root mean square error (RMSE) = 0.12–0.24 m/s; mean error (bias) =−0.09 to −0.17 m/s; regression slope =1±0.15; coherence2 = 0.4–0.6. Despite an underestimation of offshore-directed velocities under persistent wave breaking across the reef, the optical flow was able to correctly reproduce the mean flow patterns depicted by drifter trajectories. Such patterns include rip-cell circulation, dominant onshore-directed surface flow and energetic longshore current. Our study suggests that open-source optical flow algorithms are a promising technique for coastal imaging applications, particularly under high-energy wave conditions when in situ instrument deployment can be challenging.

Signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) time series acquired by a geodetic antenna were analyzed to retrieve water heights during asymmetric tides on a narrow river using the Interference Pattern Technique (IPT) from Global Navigation Satellite System Reflectometry (GNSS-R). The dynamic SNR method was selected because the elevation rate of the reflecting surface during rising tides is high in the Garonne River with macro tidal conditions. A new process was developed to filter out the noise introduced by the environmental conditions on the reflected signal due to the narrowness of the river compared to the size of the Fresnel areas, the presence of vegetation on the river banks, and the presence of boats causing multiple reflections. This process involved the removal of multipeaks in the Lomb-Scargle Periodogram (LSP) output and an iterative least square estimation (LSE) of the output heights. Evaluation of the results was performed against pressure-derived water heights. The best results were obtained using all GNSS bands (L1, L2, and L5) simultaneously: R = 0.99, ubRMSD = 0.31 m. We showed that the quality of the retrieved heights was consistent, whatever the vertical velocity of the reflecting surface, and was highly dependent on the number of satellites visible. The sampling period of our solution was 1 min with a 5-min moving window, and no tide models or fit were used in the inversion process. This highlights the potential of the dynamic SNR method to detect and monitor extreme events with GNSS-R, including those affecting inland waters such as flash floods.

The inability of the linear wave dispersion relation to characterize the dispersive properties of non-linear shoaling and breaking waves in the nearshore has long been recognised. Yet, it remains widely used with linear wave theory to convert between sub-surface pressure, wave orbital velocities and the free surface elevation associated with non-linear nearshore waves. Here, we present a non-linear fully dispersive method for reconstructing the free surface elevation from sub-surface hydrodynamic measurements. This reconstruction requires knowledge of the dispersive properties of the wave field through the dominant wavenumbers magnitude κ, representative in an energy-averaged sense of a mixed sea-state composed of both free and forced components. The present approach is effective starting from intermediate water depths - where non-linear interactions between triads intensify - up to the surf zone, where most wave components are forced and travel approximately at the speed of non-dispersive shallow-water waves. In laboratory conditions, where measurements of κ are available, the non-linear fully dispersive method successfully reconstructs sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies in diverse non-linear and dispersive conditions. In the field, we investigate the potential of a reconstruction that uses a Boussinesq approximation of κ, since such measurements are generally lacking. Overall, the proposed approach offers great potential for collecting more accurate measurements under storm conditions, both in terms of sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies and wave-by-wave statistics (e.g. wave extrema). Through its control on the efficiency of non-linear energy transfers between triads, the spectral bandwidth is shown to greatly influence non-linear effects in the transfer functions between sub-surface hydrodynamics and the sea-surface elevation.

International audience; The dispersive characteristics of unidirectional irregular waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping beach are examined using a highly-resolved laboratory dataset. Cross-spectral analyses are used to determine the cross-shore evolution of (single-valued) dominant wavenumber κ and phase velocity c spectra, and lead to the identification of four different regimes of propagation: I - a linear regime where short waves mostly propagate as free components; II - a shoaling regime where non-linear effects at high harmonics are significant but primary components follow the linear wave dispersion relation; III - a shoaling regime near the mean breaking point location, where amplitude dispersion effects at primary components are important; IV - a surf zone regime, where all components propagate slightly faster than non-dispersive shallow water waves. Bispectral analyses performed onshore of the shoaling region show that the presence of forced energy at high harmonics, which originate from non-linear interactions between triads of frequencies, are responsible for the deviations of wavenumber and phase velocity spectral estimates from predictions by the linear dispersion relation, confirming the findings from previous field-based studies. A Boussinesq approximation of the non-linear energy exchanges between triads is then used to quantify the relative amount of forced energy at high harmonics and explain the differences in dispersion properties observed in the shoaling region between broad and narrow-band spectra. Larger relative amounts of forced energy at high frequencies, which suggest more efficient non-linear energy transfers, are found to be associated with larger deviations of dominant κ and c from predictions by the linear dispersion relation.

Headland rips, sometimes referred to as boundary rips, are rip currents flowing against natural or artificial obstructions extending seaward from the beach, such as headland or groynes. They can be driven either by the deflection of the longshore current against the obstacle or by alongshore variation in breaking wave height due to wave shadowing in the lee of the obstacle. The driving mechanism therefore essentially depends on the angle of wave incidence with respect to the natural or artificial obstruction. We analyze 42 days of velocity profile measurements against a natural headland at the high-energy meso-macrotidal beach of Anglet, southwest France. Measurements were collected in 6.5&ndash, 10.5-m depth as tide elevation varied, during the autumn&ndash, winter period with offshore significant wave height and period ranging 0.9&ndash, 6 m and 8&ndash, 16 s, respectively, and the angle of wave incidence ranging from &minus, 20 ∘ to 20 ∘ . Here we analyze deflection rip configurations, corresponding to approximately 24 days of measurements, for which the current meter was alternatively located in the rip neck, rip head or away from the rip as wave and tide conditions changed. Deflection rips were associated with large offshore-directed velocities (up to 0.6 m/s depth-averaged velocities) and tide modulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. The vertical profile of deflection rips was found to vary from depth-uniform in the rip neck to strongly depth-varying further offshore in the rip head with maximum velocities near the surface. Very low frequency motions of the rip were dramatic, ranging 10&ndash, 60 min with a dominant peak period of approximately 40 min, i.e., with longer periods than commonly reported. The strong offshore-directed velocities measured well beyond the surf zone edge provide new insight into deflection rips as a dominant mechanism for water and sediment exchanges between embayed (or structurally-controlled) beaches and the inner-shelf and/or the adjacent embayments.

International audience; Despite the recognized impact of tidal bores on estuarine ecosystems, the large scale mechanism of bore formation in convergent alluvial estuaries is still under investigation. So far, field data exist only for a small number of estuaries, while numerical simulations employ the shallow water equations mainly focusing on the small-scale and local processes. In this work, firstly we apply the fully nonlinear weakly dispersive Serre-Green–Naghdi equations to simulate the tide propagation in a convergent estuary of idealized form, verifying that the local dispersion effects, responsible for the appearance of the secondary waves, do not influence the tidal bore onset, which only results from the large scale processes of amplification/damping and distortion of the incoming wave. In a second part, we numerically investigate (225 runs) the estuarine parameter space in order to identify the physical conditions that lead to tidal bore generation. In this parameter space, we determine a critical curve which divides estuaries according to tidal bore occurrence. As a result of this investigation we have shown that bore formation is controlled by the competition between two physical processes: (a) the knee-shaped distortion of the tidal wave, with flood dominance and eventually bore inception; (b) the dissipation of the tidal wave, which is unfavorable to bore formation. We also provide evidence that amplification due to topographic convergence is not a necessary condition for tidal bore generation and that there exist estuaries which display both wave damping and bore development. Finally, the validity of the results has been also assessed in the presence of freshwater river discharge, showing that for low river discharge, its effect on estuarine dynamics can be neglected.

International audience; We present the derivation of a nonlinear weakly dispersive formula to reconstruct , from pressure measurements, the surface elevation of nonlinear waves propagating in shallow water. The formula is simple and easy to use as it is local in time and only involves first and second order time derivatives of the measured pressure. This novel approach is evaluated on laboratory and field data of shoaling waves near the breaking point. Unlike linear methods, the nonlinear formula is able to reproduce at the individual wave scale the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear waves close to the breaking point. Improvements in the frequency domain are also observed as the new method is able to accurately predict surface wave elevation spectra over four harmonics. The nonlinear weakly dispersive formula derived in this paper represents an economic and easy to use alternative to direct wave elevation measurement methods (e.g. acoustic surface tracking and LiDAR scanning)..

Tidal sand dune dynamics is observed for two tidal cycles in the Arcachon tidal inlet, southwest France. An array of instruments is deployed to measure bathymetric and current variations along dune profiles. Based on the measurements, dune crest horizontal and vertical displacements are quantified and show important dynamics in phase with tidal currents. We observed superimposed ripples on the dune stoss side and front, migrating and changing polarity as tidal currents reverse. A 2D RANS numerical model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of a flat non-cohesive sand bed submitted to a tidal current. The model reproduces the bed evolution until a field of sand bedforms is obtained that are comparable with observed superimposed ripples in terms of geometrical dimensions and dynamics. The model is then applied to simulate the dynamics of a field of large sand dunes of similar size as the dunes observed in situ. In both cases, simulation results compare well with measurements qualitatively and quantitatively. This research allows for a better understanding of tidal sand dune and superimposed ripple morphodynamics and opens new perspectives for the use of numerical models to predict their evolution.

International audience; A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydrodynamic quantities were in good agreement with measurements for two wave events during which deflection rips were captured. In particular, the model was able to reproduce the tidal modulation and very-low-frequency fluctuations (≈1 h period) of the deflection rip during the 4-m wave event. For that event, the synoptic flow behaviour shows the large spatial coverage of the rip which extended 1600 m offshore at low tide, when the surf zone limit extends beyond the headland tip. These results emphasize a deflection mechanism different from conceptualised deflection mechanisms based on the boundary length to surf zone width ratio. Further simulations indicate that the adjacent embayment is responsible for the seaward extent of the rip under energetic wave conditions. The present study shows that the circulation patterns along natural rugged coastlines are strongly controlled by the natural variability of the coastal morphology, including headland shape and adjacent embayments, which has implications on headland bypassing expressions.

International audience; Most of rip-current field experiments have focused on persistent rips along rip-channeled sandy beaches or transient rips along reasonably alongshore-uniform surf-zone morphology, while experiments on rip flowing against structures are scarce. In October 2018, a 3-week field experiment was performed at Anglet beach, SW France, aiming at examining the dynamics of high-energy rip currents in complex settings. The beach is barred with prominent inherited geology, characterized by the presence of a 500-m headland and a natural submerged reef. A large array of in-situ instruments was deployed to capture the temporal and spatial variability of rip flow circulations, including ADCPs, surf-zone drifters and video monitoring. The latter allowed to identify a wide range of rip-flow patterns. Among these patterns, a high-intensity rip current flowing against the headland was a dominant feature for obliquely incident waves. Such a boundary rip current was driven by the deflection of the longshore current against the headland, peaking at 0.7 m/s (5-min time-and depth-averaged) 800-m offshore in 12-m depth for a moderate storm event with 4-m obliquely incident waves. Very-lowfrequency (O(1h) and O(30min)) fluctuations of this rip current were observed around low tide. Measurements of the vertical structure of the rip reveal that the deflection rip was more vertically-sheared as the water depth increases, with higher velocities near the surface, which is typical of a theoretical rip head structure.

International audience; The aim of the present work is to develop a model able to represent the propagation and transformation of waves in nearshore areas. The focus is on the phenomena of wave breaking, shoaling and run-up. These different phenomena are represented through a hybrid approach obtained by the coupling of non-linear Shallow Water equations with the extended Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sørensen. The novelty is the switch tool between the two modelling equations: a critical free surface Froude criterion. This is based on a physically meaningful new approach to detect wave breaking, which corresponds to the steepening of the wave's crest which turns into a roller. To allow for an appropriate discretization of both types of equations, we consider a finite element Upwind Petrov Galerkin method with a novel limiting strategy, that guarantees the preservation of smooth waves as well as the monotonicity of the results in presence of discontinuities. We provide a detailed discussion of the implementation of the newly proposed detection method, as well as of two other well known criteria which are used for comparison. An extensive benchmarking on several problems involving different wave phenomena and breaking conditions allows to show the robustness of the numerical method proposed, as well as to assess the advantages and limitations of the different detection methods.

The morphodynamic evolution of subaqueous sand dunes is investigated, using a 2-D Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes numerical model. A laboratory experiment where dunes are generated under stationary unidirectional flow conditions is used as a reference case. The model reproduces the evolution of the erodible bed until a state of equilibrium is reached. In particular, the simulation exhibits the different stages of the bed evolution, e.g., the incipient ripple generation, the nonlinear bed form growing phase, and the dune field equilibrium phase. The results show good agreement in terms of dune geometrical dimensions and time to equilibrium. After the emergence of the first ripple field, the bed growth is driven by cascading merging sequences between bed forms of different heights. A sequence extracted from the simulation shows how the downstream bed form is first eroded before merging with the upstream bed form. Superimposed bed forms emerge on the dune stoss sides during the simulation. An analysis of the results shows that they emerge downstream of a slight deflection on the dune profile. The deflection arises due to a modification of the sediment flux gradient consecutive to a reduction in the turbulence relaxation length while the upstream bed form height decreases. As they migrate, superimposed bed forms grow on the dune stoss side and eventually provoke the degeneration of the dune crest. Cascading merging sequences and superimposed bed forms dynamics both influence the dune field evolution and size and therefore play a fundamental role in the dune field self-organization process.

We present field measurements of nearshore currents at a high-energy mesotidal beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave forcing and tide elevation were found to largely impact circulation patterns. In particular, under 4-m oblique wave conditions, our measurements indicate the presence of an intense low-frequency fluctuating deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone. An XBeach model is further set up to hindcast such flow patterns.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/EiqnjBIkWJE

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[Departement_IRSTEA]Eaux [TR1_IRSTEA]RIVAGE; International audience; In this paper, a detailed analysis of undular bore dynamics in channels of variable cross-section is presented. Two undular bore regimes, LowFroude Number (LFN) and High Froude Number (HFN), are simulated with a Serre-Green-Naghdi model, and the results are compared with theexperiments by Treske. We show that contrary to Favre waves and HFN bores, which are controlled by dispersive non-hydrostatic mechanisms, LFN bores correspond to a hydrostatic phenomenon. The dispersive-like properties of the LFN bores is related to wave refraction on the banks in a way similar to that of edge waves in the nearshore. A fully hydrostatic asymptotic model for these dispersive-like bores is derived and compared to the observations, confirming our claim

International audience; In this study, three months of records (January-March 2010) that were acquired by a geodetic Global Navigation Satellite Systems (GNSS) station from the permanent network of RGP (Réseau GNSS Permanent), which was deployed by the French Geographic Institute (IGNF), located in Socoa, in the south of the Bay of Biscay, were used to determine the tide components and identify the signature of storms on the signal to noise ratio (SNR) during winter 2010. The Xynthia storm hit the French Atlantic coast on the 28th of February 2010, causing large floods and damages from the Gironde to the Loire estuaries. Blind separation of the tide components and of the storm signature was achieved while using both a singular spectrum analysis (SSA) and a continuous wavelet transform (CWT). A correlation of 0.98/0.97 and root mean square error (RMSE) of 0.21/0.28 m between the tide gauge records of Socoa and our estimates of the sea surface height (SSH) using the SSA and the CWT, respectively, were found. Correlations of 0.76 and 0.7 were also obtained between one of the modes from the SSA and atmospheric pressure from a meteorological station and a mode of the SSA. Particularly, a correlation reaches to 0.76 when using both the tide residual that is associated to surges and atmospheric pressure variation.

We compare different methods to reconstruct the surface elevation of irregular waves propagating outside the surf zone from pressure measurements at the bottom. The traditional transfer function method (TFM), based on the linear wave theory, predicts reasonably well the significant wave height but cannot describe the highest frequencies of the wave spectrum. This is why the TFM cannot reproduce the skewed shape of nonlinear waves and strongly underestimates their crest elevation. The surface elevation reconstructed from the TFM is very sensitive to the value of the cutoff frequency. At the individual wave scale, high-frequency tail correction strategies associated with this method do not significantly improve the prediction of the highest waves. Unlike the TFM, the recently developed weakly-dispersive nonlinear reconstruction method correctly reproduces the wave energy over a large number of harmonics leading to an accurate estimation of the peaked and skewed shape of the highest waves. This method is able to recover the most nonlinear waves within wave groups which some can be characterized as extreme waves. It is anticipated that using relevant reconstruction method will improve the description of individual wave transformation close to breaking.

International audience; La reconstruction du champ de vagues basée sur la théorie linéaire, communément appelée méthode de la fonction de transfert, décrit assez bien les caractéristiques moyennes des vagues. Elle est couramment utilisée pour déterminer les paramètres statistiques des vagues mais sous-estime la hauteur des plus grosses vagues. Cependant, bien estimer ces vagues énergétiques est primordial pour l'étude des risques côtiers lors d'évènements extrêmes. La reconstruction linéaire nécessite l'application d'une fréquence de coupure du spectre d'énergie qui induit une perte d'information. Des techniques empiriques qui essaient de combler artificiellement le spectre d'énergie n'améliorent que très peu les plus grosses vagues. Récemment, des formules simples à implémenter permettant des reconstructions linéaires et non-linéaires ont été développées. Nous présentons et comparons dans cet article différentes méthodes de reconstruction du champ de vagues à partir de la pression mesurée au fond lors d'une campagne de mesure réalisée sur la plage de La Salie en avril 2017. Notre étude est centrée sur des vagues très non-linéaires et faiblement dispersives. Une analyse vague à vague met en évidence la capacité de la reconstruction non-linéaire faiblement dispersive à reproduire la hauteur et l'asymétrie des plus grosses vagues contrairement à la formule linéaire couramment utilisée en ingénierie côtière. Mots-clés : Théorie linéaire, non-linéarité, capteurs de pression, reconstruction du champ de vagues.

This study presents the results of the use of high frequency Global Navigation Satellites Systems (GNSS) data for the detection and the characterization of tidal bores. The experiment took place th...

The formation and dynamics of tidal bores in funnel-shaped estuaries is investigated from both a global tidal wave scaling analysis and new quantitative field observations. We show that tidal bore occurrence in convergent estuaries can be estimated from a dimensionless scaling parameter characterizing the relative intensity of nonlinear friction versus local inertia in the momentum equation. A detailed analysis of tidal bore formation and secondary wave structure is presented from a unique long-term database (observations of more than 200 tides) acquired during four campaigns in the two main French tidal-bore estuaries: the Seine and Gironde/Garonne estuaries. We describe the effect of freshwater discharge on the global tidal wave transformation at the estuarine scale and on local tidal bore occurrence in the upper estuary. Our field data suggest that the tidal bore intensity is mainly governed by the dimensionless tidal range, which characterizes the local tidal wave nonlinearity. We also show that the secondary wavefield associated with tidal bore propagating in natural estuaries differs significantly from those associated to undular bores in rectangular channels. In particular, we observe an abrupt decrease of the whelp steepness when the Froude number goes below 1.1. This secondary field transition can explain why tidal bore occurrence in worldwide estuaries is certainly underestimated.

The secondary wave field associated with undular tidal bores (known as whelps) has been barely studied in field conditions: the wave field can be strongly non-hydrostatic, and the turbidity is generally high. In situ measurements based on pressure or acoustic signals can therefore be limited or inadequate. The intermittent nature of this process in the field and the complications encountered in the downscaling to laboratory conditions also render its study difficult. Here, we present a new methodology based on LiDAR technology to provide high spatial and temporal resolution measurements of the free surface of an undular tidal bore. A wave-by-wave analysis is performed on the whelps, and comparisons between LiDAR, acoustic and pressure-derived measurements are used to quantify the non-hydrostatic nature of this phenomenon. A correction based on linear wave theory applied on individual wave properties improves the results from the pressure transducer (Root mean square error, R M S E of 0 . 19 m against 0 . 38 m); however, more robust data is obtained from an upwards-looking acoustic sensor despite high turbidity during the passage of the whelps ( R M S E of 0 . 05 m). Finally, the LiDAR scanner provides the unique possibility to study the wave geometry: the distribution of measured wave height, period, celerity, steepness and wavelength are presented. It is found that the highest wave from the whelps can be steeper than the bore front, explaining why breaking events are sometimes observed in the secondary wave field of undular tidal bores.

A consistent time series of synoptic and high-frequency bathymetric observations is fundamental to improving our understanding and predictive capabilities regarding the morphological behavior of large coastal inlets. Based on satellite observations, an original approach is proposed to characterize the long-term morphological evolution of the Arcachon lagoon inlet and to describe sediment bypassing and breaching mechanisms. The almost 26-year-long remotely sensed data archive used in this study is built from 78 suitable SPOT images (1986–2012) collected in the framework of the KALIDEOS-Littoral program. Bathymetric information is derived from satellite data using a physics-based model. A validation exercise performed on a large bathymetric survey data set (N = 43,949) demonstrates that the inversion model performs excellently in estimating the depth of mildly to moderately turbid shallow waters. The performance of the model suggests that the minimum requirements are fulfilled to apply the SPOT-derived bathymetry to morphodynamic applications. We demonstrate that high-spatial-resolution multispectral sensors are well adapted to analyzing the morphological evolution of small- (i.e., sand dunes), medium- (i.e., sandbanks and channels), and large- (i.e., the entire inlet-lagoon system) scale sedimentary structures present in coastal inlets. For the first time, the long-term evolution of a flood and ebb-tidal delta is characterized by observations at a seasonal timescale. Finally, migration rates of sedimentary entities are quantified, and fundamental mechanisms driving the sediment transport cross the inlet are confirmed.

On rip-channelled beaches, intense rip currents are driven by waves due to alongshore variations in breaking-induced wave energy dissipation. This study addresses for the first time the potential development of tidal currents superimposed onto the wave-driven circulation. This phenomenon is observed on a rip-channelled meso-macrotidal beach (Biscarrosse, SW France). Field measurements show 20 to 45% stronger mean rip velocities during ebb than during flood. Numerical experiments reveal that this asymmetry is the signature of tidal currents developing over the rip channel morphology. This asymmetry is found to increase roughly linearly with increasing tidal range. These results are significant to beach safety and lifeguarding and stimulate further numerical exercises.

The present work proposes a morphological evolution model for sandy cuspate beaches, which depends on two parameters, swash excursion (S) and offshore wave steepness (H0/L0). The model was derived from observations of morphology and wave climate at Renaca Beach in central Chile, comprising in-situ instrumentation, topographic surveys, wave modeling, and optical imagery. It was found that wave steepness alone was unable to explain the morphological changes observed on the beach. Rather, results indicate that swash excursion is better to distinguish between erosive and accretionary events, with swash excursion exceeding 29.5 m for more than 12 h being indicative of erosive events. While morphological changes are led by S, wave steepness correlates with the erosive potential of waves, especially when H0/L0 is greater than 0.017. Although derived for a specific beach under a limited range of conditions, this work adds to the understanding of the dynamic behavior of beaches exposed to persistent high-energy swells.

Experiments have been performed in a large wave tank in order to study the morphodynamics of rip current systems. Both accretive and erosive shore-normal wave conditions were applied, the beach evolving through all the states within the intermediate beach classification, under the so-called down-state (accretive) and up-state (erosive) morphological transitions. Results show that any prescribed change in the wave conditions drastically increases the rate at which the morphology changes. The surf zone morphology tends toward a steady state when running a given wave climate for a long duration. We quantitatively describe a full down-state sequence characterized by the progressive evolution of an alongshore-uniform bar successively into a crescentic plan shape, a bar and rip channel morphology, and a terrace. From the analysis of a large data set of dense Eulerian measurements and bathymetric surveys, we depict several feedback mechanisms associated with wave-driven rip current circulation, wave nonlinearities and the seabed evolution. At first, a positive feedback mechanism drives a rapid increase in the rate of morphological change, beach three-dimensionality, and rip intensity. By the time the sandbar evolves into a bar and rip morphology, a negative feedback mechanism, characterized by a decaying beach change rate and an increasing beach alongshore uniformity, overwhelms the former mechanism. An erosive sequence characterized by both an overall offshore bar migration and an increase in beach three-dimensionality is also described.

The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our methodaccurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport., Comment: To appear in J. Fluid Mech

Castelle, B., Dubarbier, B., Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Conley, D.C., Ruessink, B.G. and Masselink, G., 2013. Testing numerical hydrodynamic and morphodynamic models against BARDEX II Experiment data sets. The hydrodynamics on barred beaches and mechanics of sediment transport related to sandbar migration, berm formation/destruction, barrier crest dynamics and washover deposition are extremely complex. At this time, process-based models encompassing all these processes are non-existent. Among other shortcomings, the lack of existing intensive high-frequency full-scale data limits the range improvement and validation of nearshore process-based models. In June 2012, the large-scale Barrier Dynamics Experiment (BARDEX II) was performed in the Delta Flume, providing new datasets for rigorous testing of existing hydrodynamic, groundwater and morphodynamic models and further assisting their development. Three types of models are expected to be applied and further improved: (1) the short-wave averaged s...

Dinophysis is the most harmful toxic phytoplankton on the French coast in terms of its impact on local economy and public health. In Arcachon Bay, Dinophysis spp. have periodically affected shellfish industry for the last ten years; the most important events are analysed in detail in this paper. Regular monitoring revealed that these events originated outside Arcachon Bay in the open ocean. Data from 14 surveys and two coastal networks showed that Dinophysis was primarily found in the vicinity of Capbreton, 100 km south of the mouth of Arcachon Bay. The Dinophysis distribution on the continental shelf was determined during two surveys in 2005 and 2008: the highest concentrations were located along the coast and reached 18 000 cells.L − 1 . Analysis of available current data revealed that strong westerlies lead to northward currents of up to 19 cm.s − 1 . These marine meteorological conditions were frequently observed just prior to Dinophysis events and lead us to suggest that northward currents transport Dinophysis from the Capbreton area to Arcachon Bay.

Resume Nous presentons, dans cet article, une analyse de la dynamique des ressauts de maree, basee sur des donnees issues de deux campagnes de mesures realisees en 2011 simultanement sur la Seine et la Garonne. Nous avons montre que, contrairement a ce qui etait couramment admis, des ressauts de maree ondules se formaient dans la Garonne pour une large majorite de marees et meme, dans des conditions de faible debit fluvial, par maree de morte-eau. Nous avons identifie des ressauts de maree de faible cambrure, associes a des ondes secondaires de basse frequence, invisibles a l’œil nu mais accessible, a la mesure. De tels ressauts ondules basses frequences ont aussi ete identifies et caracterises pour la premiere fois dans la Seine. Dans ce fleuve, la hauteur de la premiere vague associee a ces ressauts peut depasser 1 m. Nous avons mis en evidence une forte amplification de la cambrure des ondes secondaires, associees au ressaut de maree ondule, lorsque le nombre de Froude depasse une valeur critique Fc. Le regime d’onde de forte cambrure correspond au phenomene qu’on denomme couramment mascaret. Pour qualifier les ressauts lies a la maree, quels que soient leur intensite, les auteurs preconisent d’utiliser la terminologie generale de ressaut de maree (equivalente a la terminologie anglaise tidal bore) et de reserver le terme de mascaret aux ressauts de fortes amplitudes (F > Fc).

A good prediction of wave celerity in the surf zone is essential for wave propagation modelling in the nearshore. This paper is devoted to a study of wave celerity based on the analysis of data collected during the ECORS 2008 field experiment that took place at Truc Vert Beach, SW France. Here we analyze and quantify the effects of non-linearities and evaluate the predictive ability of several non-linear celerity predictors for high-energy wave conditions. The asymptotic behaviour of the different models for high values of the non-linearity parameter is investigated. Besides, comparisons with data show that the classic bore model is inappropriate for describing wave dynamics when approaching the swash zone. The influence of very low frequency pulsations of the wave-induced circulation on wave celerity is also discussed.

Near-bottom-mounted pressure sensors have long been used for measuring surface wave in the nearshore. The commonly used practice is to recover the wave field by means of a transfer function based on linear wave theory (e.g. Guza and Thornton, 1980; Bishop and Donelan, 1987). However, wave nonlinearities can be strong in the shoaling zone, especially in the region close to the onset of breaking, and thus the use of a linear theory can be questioned. Martins et al. (2017) and Bonneton (2017, 2018) have shown that the linear reconstruction fails to describe the peaky and skewed shape of nonlinear waves prior to breaking, with wave height errors up to 30%. Such measurement errors are problematic for many coastal applications. For instance, studies on wave overtopping and submersion require accurate measurements of the highest wave crests. Furthermore, a correct description of wave asymmetry and skewness is of paramount importance for understanding sediment dynamics. Finally, an accurate description of the wave elevation field is also crucial for the validation of the new generation of fully-nonlinear phase-resolving wave models.

Five weeks of hourly, 10-min time-exposure video images were used to analyze the meso–macro-tidal double-barred Truc Vert Beach, SW France, under intense wave forcing. The four storms experienced, one of which with an offshore significant wave height over 8 m, induced dramatic changes in the double sandbar system. The subtidal outer bar migrated offshore rapidly (up to 30–50 m/day) and its pre-existing crescentic pattern was wiped out. The seaward-protruding parts of the outer bar barely migrated offshore during the most intense storm, whereas a landward-protruding part was shed off. Over the entire study period, the outer-bar dynamics was dominated by alongshore-averaged changes rather than alongshore non-uniform changes, while the opposite was observed for the inner bar. In addition, the outer-bar dynamics was predominantly controlled by the time-varying offshore wave conditions, whereas the inner-bar dynamics was influenced largely by the tide-range variations. Our observations put forward the key role of morphological settings (the presence of a subtidal bar and its shape) and tidal range in governing inner-bar behaviour within a double sandbar dynamics, and provide strong support for previous suggestions that sandbars cannot be studied in isolation.

Ce papier presente le developpement d'un modele simple d'evolution de profil de plage sableuse base sur une approche a phase moyennee et sur un couplage vagues/transport sedimentaire/evolution bathymetrique. Une nouvelle parametrisation du transport sedimentaire tenant compte de l'asymetrie des vagues et de l'acceleration pres du fond est proposee et etudiee ici. Le modele reproduit la migration des barres vers la plage pendant les episodes de temps calme et vers le large pour des conditions energetiques. La prise en compte de l'asymetrie d'acceleration ameliore sensiblement les performances du modele. La comparaison du modele avec les experiences realisees en canal et avec l'evolution d'une plage australienne sur une periode de 2 mois montre des resultats encourageants.

We investigate the ability of a 1D fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative approach for wave-breaking parameterization including roller effects through diffusive-type terms on both, the mass conservation and momentum equations is developed and validated on regular wave and solitary wave experiments as an attempt to improve wave height and left-right asymmetry estimates. The new approach is able to reproduce wave height decay, and intraphase nonlinear properties within the entire surf zone of spilling breakers without requiring temporal evolution of model parameters.

Over the last decade there has been an increasing interest in tidal bore dynamics. However most studies have been focused on small-scale bore processes. The present paper describes the first quantitative study, at the estuary scale, of the conditions for tidal bore formation in convergent alluvial estuaries. When freshwater discharge and large-scale spatial variations of the estuary water depth can be neglected, tide propagation in such estuaries is controlled by three main dimensionless parameters: the nonlinearity parameter e 0 , the convergence ratio δ0 and the friction parameter ϕ0. In this paper we explore this dimensionless parameter space, in terms of tidal bore occurrence, from a database of 21 estuaries (8 tidal-bore estuaries and 13 non tidal-bore estuaries). The field data point out that tidal bores occur for convergence ratios close to the critical convergence δc. A new proposed definition of the friction parameter highlights a clear separation on the parameter plane (ϕ0, e 0 ) between tidal-bore estuaries and non tidal-bore estuaries. More specifically, we have established that tidal bores occur in convergent estuaries when the nonlinearity parameter is greater than a critical value, e c , which is an increasing function of the friction parameter ϕ0. This result has been confirmed by numerical simulations of the two-dimensional Saint Venant equations. The real-estuary observations and the numerical simulations also show that, contrary to what is generally assumed, tide amplification is not a necessary condition for tidal bore formation. The effect of freshwater discharge on tidal bore occurrence has been analyzed from the database acquired during three long-term campaigns carried out on the Gironde/Garonne estuary. We have shown that in the upper estuary the tidal bore intensity is mainly governed by the local dimensionless tide amplitude e. The bore intensity is an increasing function of e and this relationship does not depend on freshwater discharge. However, freshwater discharge damps the tidal wave during its propagation and thus reduces e and consequently limits the tidal bore development in the estuary. To take into account this process in the tidal-bore scaling analysis, it is necessary to introduce a fourth external parameter, the dimensionless river discharge Q 0 .

The French Aquitanian Coast is an approximately 250 km long straight low coast exposed to high energy conditions in a mesomacrotidal setting. Offshore wave conditions are seasonally modulated, predominantly with a WNW incidence, with offshore significant wave height likely to reach 10 m during winter. Truc Vert Beach, representative of most of the Aquitanian Coast beaches, commonly exhibitstwodistinctsandbarsystems.Theinnerbarcangothroughallthestateswithintheintermediateclassificationandusuallyexhibitsa TansverseBarandRipmorphology.Afterafewweeksoflowerenergyconditionsduringsummer,theinnerbarcommonlybecomesaLow TideTerracewithameanwavelengthof400mandameansoutherlymigrationrateofabout2–3m/day.Crescenticbarshavebeenreported in the literature in nontidal to microtidal settings. Long term persistent crescentic patterns are, however, exhibited at a narrow range of wavelength (mean of 700m) by the outer bar at the meso-macrotidal Truc Vert Beach. Most of the time, the outer bar is inactive and stagnates as offshore waves ofHsN3 m are required to induce a significant morphological change. The crescent shape varies from a symmetric shape to a strongly asymmetric shape, likely to be the result of a long period of NW wave conditions. A strong, and rarely observed elsewhere, morphological coupling between the inner and outer bars can sometimes be observed, and may be the result of the combined effectsof the initial presence of a well-developed outer crescentic bar and a long period of shore–normal low energy conditions. A synthesis of all the data available on the area combined with observations on other environments leads to a Truc Vert Beach state model ranging from a modal double bar configuration to an occasional triple bar configuration. This work also identifies knowledge gaps to be explored by further numerical and field studies in tidal double sandbar environments. © 2007 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.