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Introduction: This systematic review explores the use of neurophysiological measurements to study emotional responses to cosmetic products. The aim is to evaluate existing literature on these measurements in cosmetics, identify the main findings, highlight methodological challenges, and propose new guidelines for future research. Method: A systematic search focusing on neurophysiological measures to determine emotions induced by different cosmetic products was carried out in accordance with PRISMA guidelines. Results: A total of 33 articles identified with the EBSCO database met the inclusion criteria. In all, 10 different measurement tools were used in these articles to assess the emotional effects of cosmetic products. Discussion: This review emphasizes the complexity of interactions between cosmetics and emotional responses. It underscores the importance of future research with a more holistic approach that couples several physiological measurements. Among them, electrophysiological brain activity shows potential for enhancing understanding of emotional responses related to cosmetic products. Frontal asymmetry, particularly in the alpha frequency band, was often use and frequently linked to positive emotional states, although conflicting evidence exists. Additionally, cardiac activity, specifically the LF/HF ratio, emerges as a promising marker for differentiating between different cosmetic products. However, methodological heterogeneity, present challenges for replicability, generalizability, and complicate data interpretation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Allylic oxygenated derivatives of himachalenes are highly valued molecules due to their potential applications in perfumery, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. Previous attempts at catalyzed allylic oxidation of himachalenes led to the formation of a very stable η3-allyl palladium complex, preventing any further reaction development. Herein, we present the first successful palladium-catalyzed synthesis of a novel allylic acetoxylated derivative of himachalenes. This reaction was achieved by incorporating an aromatic ring into the substrate structure. The resulting intermediate complex was isolated and characterized using nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and X-ray crystallography. Density functional theory (DFT) calculations were performed to compare the reactivity of the newly synthesized complex with previously reported ones. The theoretical results confirm that the introduction of an aromatic ring enhances the reactivity of the η³-allyl palladium complex, thereby facilitating the desired transformation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigates the encapsulation and controlled release of perfume within micellar systems. We explored how perfume‐surfactant interactions and micelle structure influence fragrance delivery. Two mixed‐micelle systems, one with branched‐tail and the other with linear‐tail surfactants, were subjected to varying perfume concentrations, dilution, and time. Using small‐angle neutron scattering (SANS), gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry (GC‐MS), and statistical analysis, we determined that micelle size and shape are significantly affected by perfume content and dilution. While both systems exhibited similar trends, the branched‐tail system uniquely formed a lamellar phase at higher perfume levels. Our findings reveal a strong correlation between micelle geometry and headspace perfume concentration, highlighting the role of surfactant tail structure. This research provides fundamental insights into perfume‐micelle interactions, with potential applications in materials science and active ingredient delivery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent discussions have emphasized the significance of embodied processing in language comprehension. Nevertheless, continuous debates persist regarding the relative contribution of modal (embodied) and amodal (abstract) processing of language. The current study investigated the contribution of modal processing in the first (L1) and second (L2) language, hypothesizing higher level of abstract amodal symbol processing in L2 than L1, since the correspondence of L1 and L2 (i.e., the symbol-to-symbol assignment) is in the foreground when learning L2. We employed the modality-switch paradigm (Pecher et al., 2003) in both German and French versions with proficient sequential German and French bilinguals (N = 79). Participants were presented with noun-adjective pairs (e.g., keys - jingling) in both languages and decided whether the adjective could be applied to the noun. This task repeatedly requires switching modality between trials, (e.g., from auditory [keys - jingling] to olfactory [soap - perfumed]), typically causing switch costs on response latency as compared to maintaining the modality. Contrary to the hypothesis, we observed modality switch effects (MSE) in both L1 and L2. This result suggests that embodied language processing occurs not only in the first language but also extends to the second language thus challenging the assumption that L2 processing predominantly involves abstract amodal symbol processing. Notably, however, significant L1 and L2 MSEs were found for French, whereas for German already the L1 effect was rather weak (though significant); the corresponding L2 effect was not significant. Thus, the results hinted at differences between languages regarding the relative role of modal and amodal processing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The perfume industry is a suitable candidate for applying advanced natural language processing techniques, yet most existing studies focus on developing fragrance design systems based on artificial intelligence advances. To meet the increasing demand for analyzing and exploiting descriptive sentences for the fragrance market, we investigate the relationship between descriptive sentences of perfumes and their notes in this paper. Our purpose for this investigation is to build a core idea for a perfume recommendation system of descriptive sentences. To accomplish this, we propose a system for perfume note estimation of descriptive sentences based on several sentence transformer models. In our leave-one-out cross-validation tests using our dataset containing 62 perfumes and 255 perfume notes, we achieved significant performance improvements (from a 37.1∼41.1% to 72.6∼79.0% hit rate with the top five items, and from a 22.1∼31.9% to a 57.3∼63.2% mean reciprocal rank) for perfume note estimation via our fine-tuning process. In addition, some qualitative examples, including query descriptions, estimated perfume notes, and the ground truth perfume notes, are presented. The proposed system improves the perfume note estimation performances using a fine-tuning process on a newly constructed dataset containing descriptive sentences of perfumes and their notes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Male orchid bees are unique in the animal kingdom for making perfumes that function as sex pheromone. Males collect volatile chemicals from the environment in the neotropical forests, including floral and non-floral sources, creating complex but species-specific blends. Male orchid bees exhibit several adaptations to facilitate perfume collection and storage. When collecting volatile compounds, males apply lipid substances that they secrete from cephalic labial glands onto the fragrant substrate. These lipids help dissolve and retain the volatiles, similar to the process of 'enfleurage' in the traditional perfume industry. We investigated how the chemical composition of acquired perfume and labial gland secretions varied across the phylogeny of orchid bees, including 65 species in five genera from Central and South America. Perfumes showed rapid evolution as revealed by low overall phylogenetic signal, in agreement with the idea that perfume compounds diverge rapidly and substantially among closely related species due to their role in species recognition. A possible exception were perfumes in the genus Eulaema, clustering closely in chemospace, partly mediated by high proportions of carvone and trans-carvone oxide. Labial gland secretions, in contrast, showed a strong phylogenetic signal at the genus level, with secretions of Eufriesea and Exaerete dominated by fatty acids and Eulaema dominated by saturated acetates of chain lengths 12 to 16 C-atoms. Secretions of the majority of Euglossa were heavily dominated by one unsaturated long chain diacetate, (9Z)-Eicosen-1,20-diyldiacetate. However, we also identified few highly divergent species of Euglossa in four subclades (11 species) that appear to have secondarily replaced the diacetate with other compounds. In comparison with environment-derived perfumes, the evolution of labial gland secretion is much slower, likely constrained by the underlying biochemical pathways, but perhaps influenced by perfume-solvent chemical interactions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Saffron "Crocus sativus" is a plant of the Iridaceae family. Its therapeutic virtues have been known since antiquity; it is used in traditional medicine and culinary preparations. It is also known for its use in cosmetics because of its beneficial pharmacological activities for human skin. In particular, saffron tepals are the main by-product of saffron processing; they contain several bioactive compounds such as mineral agents, anthocyanins, monoterpenoids, carotenoids, flavonoids, and flavonols (kaempferol). This review aims to describe the different properties of saffron flower tepals, including their botanical characteristics, phytochemical composition, biological activities, and cosmetology and perfumery uses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Spathiphyllum is a Neotropical aroid genus whose inflorescences are composed of protogynous bisexual flowers that emit strong perfumes. These scents serve as both attractants and rewards for male euglossine pollinators. We investigated the inflorescence scent of S. cannifolium, asking whether inflorescence at female and male phases differ in scent traits. For this, we collected scent samples from inflorescence at the two phases using dynamic headspace methods and analyzed them by a gas chromatograph coupled to a mass spectrometer (GC‐MS). The inflorescence scent of S. cannifolium consisted of 26 compounds, with benzyl acetate as major component (ca. 80% of the scent bouquet). We found no quantitative or qualitative differences between scents of inflorescences at female and male phases, nor in the emission time. However, when considering the timing of scent emission among individuals, we observed two general plant groups. Some individuals emitted more scent at 06:00, while others emitted more scent at 09:00, independent of the sexual phase. The similarity of floral scents between the sexes might promote floral constancy by male euglossine pollinators and consequently alternate pollinator flow between inflorescences at female and male phases. The occurrence of the two general patterns of scent emission can be interpreted as a way to ensure the pollination service. Since plants emit scents in the morning, even outside the peak emission period, this would enable these plants to attract pollinators that are active at different times than the peak emission of floral scents. This way, it would ensure the flow of pollen, even if it occurs at a low frequency. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article discusses the narrative of Antiochus IV's death in 2 Maccabees 9, showing how, alongside themes and motifs from the biblical tradition, it draws its imagery from a Hellenistic topos based on the connection between royal power and aromas. Through the subversion of categories functional in celebrating a ruler's greatness, such as the perfumed body or the great availability of aromata, it will be seen how the narrative in 2 Macc 9 portraying Antiochus' decaying body characterized by intolerable stench deconstructs the image of the Seleucid by depicting him in contrast to idealized representations of great kings such as Alexander the Great, whose perfumed body remains immaculate even after death. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The underlying mechanism of MCS is not understood, as a result, there are no accepted diagnostic tests. This situation has had a major effect on the acceptance of MCS as a clinical entity. The lack of diagnostic tools has discouraged clinicians to address the problem in their patients. This paper reviews the current approaches to MCS, with particular attention to the role of adaptive immunity. Immunoglobulin free light chains (FLCs), specific to conjugated chemical haptens, may be involved. The production of FLCs can be elicited by chemical concentrations far below those required for a T cell response. Crosslinking of FLCs on mast cells by conjugated haptens, in the respiratory mucosa, releasing mediators and cytokines, produces local inflammation. Over time, repeated mast cell activation may sensitise neural pathways, lowering the threshold for activation, both peripherally, and subsequently in the central nervous system (CNS). As a result, there may be increasing prominence of CNS-based symptoms. If assays can be developed for FLCs specific to hapten-protein conjugates, then specific chemicals eliciting symptoms can be identified in individual patients. Also, there would be wider acceptance of MCS as a significant clinical problem. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

(−)‐Ambrox, a highly prized and commercially significant component of ambergris, finds widespread application in perfumery, cigarettes, cosmetics, and the food industry. Despite considerable attention to this research area over the years, an environmentally friendly and practical method for synthesizing (−)‐ambrox has remained elusive. This study presents a succinct and efficient approach to (−)‐ambrox synthesis, involving two consecutive alkylations at C‐6, followed by an acid‐catalyzed cyclization to give bicyclic ketones starting from (R)‐carvone. Subsequent reduction, Barton Vinyl Iodide synthesis, alkylation, and an acid‐catalyzed cyclization collectively achieved the synthesis of (−)‐ambrox with a satisfactory yield of 26.2 %. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Theoretically, males should increase their ejaculate expenditure when the probability of sperm competition occurring (or risk) is high but decrease ejaculate expenditure as the number of competing ejaculates (or intensity) increases. Here we examine whether male decorated crickets (Gryllodes sigillatus) use cuticular hydrocarbons (CHCs) transferred to females by rival males at mating to assess the risk and intensity of sperm competition and adjust their ejaculate accordingly. Unmated females and those perfumed with CHCs extracted from one, three, or five males could be distinguished chemically, providing a reliable cue of the risk and intensity of sperm competition. In agreement with theory, males mating with these females increased sperm number with the risk of sperm competition and decreased sperm number with the intensity of sperm competition. Similarly, as the risk of sperm competition increased, males produced a larger and more attractive spermatophylax (an important non-sperm component of the ejaculate) but these traits did not vary with the intensity of sperm competition. Our results therefore demonstrate that both sperm and non-sperm components of the male ejaculate respond to the risk and intensity of sperm competition in different ways and that CHCs provide males with an important cue to strategically tailor their ejaculate. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bergamot (Citrus bergamia Risso) is not consumed as fresh fruit as other members of Citrus. Bergamot essential oil has a unique aroma. Bergamot essential oil is a very valuable product used in perfumery, cosmetics, aromatherapy and food industry due to its beautiful scent and functional properties. As with other Citrus species, the composition of bergamot essential oil can vary according to harvest time, climate and extraction technology. Bergamot essential oil could be obtained by cold press extraction or distillation method. Within the scope of the study, the effect of four different hydrodistillation (HD) times (5, 10, 60 and 120 min) on the composition of bergamot essential oil obtained from Turkish fruits was investigated. In the first 60 min, 96.11% of the total essential oil was obtained. Research findings have shown that the distillation time is quite effective in the composition of bergamot essential oil. Limonene, linalool and linalyl acetate, which are the main components of bergamot essential oil, varied in the range, 42.36%–53.25%, 5.59%–12.18% and 20.84%–26.73%, respectively, with respect to distillation time. In cold press method, bergamot essential oil has lower linalool/linalyl acetate ratio (0.15) compared to HD method and a higher quality essence was obtained. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Two series of vanillin derivatives containing 1,3,4-oxadiazole and 1,3-thiazolidin-4-one scaffolds were prepared and evaluated for their antifungal activity. The results revealed that compounds 6j (29.73 μg/ml) and 7a (38.15 μg/ml) displayed excellent inhibitory activity against the spore of Fusarium solani. The inhibitory activity of compound 7d (10.53 μg/ml) against the spore of Alternaria solani was more than 42-fold that of vanillin. Compound 7a (37.54 μg/ml) showed better antifungal activity against the spore of B. cinerea than positive controls. The cytotoxicity assay confirmed that compounds 6k, 7a, and 7d showed good selectivity and less toxicity to normal mammalian cells. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, I look at the relationship between human olfaction, digital platforms, and everyday media practices in contemporary capitalist contexts. In the first section, I map what I describe as interfaced anosmia, or the absence of smell from mundane media devices. This absence is especially glaring given how olfaction uniquely lends itself to certain mediated forms of affective modulation. In the second section, I look at the platformization of the luxury fragrance industry, across three sites of analysis to reveal how, despite the conditions of interfaced anosmia, smell has already been shaped on and by platforms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Obtained from Aquilaria Lam. and Gyrinops Gaertn., agarwood is a prestigious perfume and medicinal material in the world. Its primary chemical constituents and indicators of agarwood's development are 2-(2-phenylethyl)chromones (PECs). However, how PECs affect its quality, accumulation, and transformation pattern is still unclear. The present study investigated this issue by monitoring resin filling in agarwood generated by the whole-tree agarwood-inducing technique over a span of a year, observing the ethanol extract concentration at different sampling times, and statistically examining PECs in agarwood from each sampling period. In agarwood, the resin accumulated over time, except during the 4th-6th month due to the creation of a barrier layer. The relative content of total PECs demonstrated an overall increase throughout the year but a decrease from the 4th month to the 6th month, and the relative content of 19 PECs that persisted throughout the year was positively correlated with the content of ethanol extracts. In addition, the process of chromone accumulation was accompanied by the production and transformation of different types of chromones, with flindersia type 2-(2-phenylethyl)chromones, epoxy-2-(2-phenylethyl)chromones, and diepoxy-2-(2-phenylethyl)chromones being the major chromone components; in addition, the content of 5,6,7,8-tetrahydro- 2-(2-phenylethyl)chromones kept increasing after 6 months of agarwood formation. Three main trends were identified from 58 analogs of PECs, each with notable variation. The first type had the highest content at the beginning of resin formation. The second type had the highest content at 6 months and then started to decrease, and the third type had a slowly increasing content. As a whole, this study systematically investigated the accumulation of PECs during injury-induced agarwood production in A. sinensis, which is of scientific significance in resolving the transformation of PECs and revealing the secret of agarwood formation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Many odors, like perfumes, are complex mixtures of chiral and achiral molecules where the cost‐efficient (enantio−)selective sensing represents a major technical challenge. Here, we present a colorimetric sensor array of surface‐mounted metal‐organic‐framework (SURMOF) films in Fabry‐Pérot (FP) cavities. The optical properties of the FP‐SURMOF films with different chiral and achiral structures are affected by the (enantio−)selective adsorption of the analytes in the SURMOF pores, resulting in different responses to the analyte molecules. The read‐out of the sensor array is performed by the digital camera of a common smartphone, where the RGB values are determined. By analyzing the sensor array data with simple machine learning algorithms, the analytes are discriminated. After demonstrating the enantioselective response for a pair of pure chiral odor molecules, we apply the sensor array to detect and discriminate a large number (16) of common commercial perfumes and eau de toilettes. While our untrained human nose is not able to discriminate all perfumes, the presented colorimetric sensor array can classify all perfumes with great classification accuracy. Moreover, the sensor array was used to identify unlabeled samples correctly. We foresee such an FP‐chiral‐SURMOF‐based sensor array as a powerful approach toward inexpensive selective odors sensing applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Zhiyan 智儼 (602–668) is considered the second patriarch of the Chinese Huayan 華嚴 (Jp. Kegon) school. Zhiyan gave his scholarly attention to the Dilun School 地論宗 and Shelun School 攝論宗. By his period, the reunification of the North and South had permitted the Dilun and Shelun lineages to begin to merge, and the texts on which they were based had a common origin in the Indian Yogācāra and Tathāgatagarbha. In this article, I focus on Zhiyan's conceptual innovations and their background. My chief concerns are twofold: the first is to review several terms and teachings as representative examples of the creative practice of Zhiyan and the second is to identify his roots in the earlier traditions of Indian and Chinese Buddhism. I focus on the translation and understanding of the term zhenru 真如 (Skt. tathatā; suchness/thusness), which is a crucial expression used in descriptions of ultimate truth in Buddhism. By investigating the terms through the lens of the Ratnagotravibhāga (=RGV), I consider what tathatā, dhātu and gotra signified in their Indian usage and how these meanings evolved in the process of the appropriation of these concepts in China, especially in Zhiyan's writings. Furthermore, through this analysis, I aim to explore Zhiyan's attitude towards the Jiujing yisheng baoxing lun 究竟一乘寶性論 (=BXL), the Chinese translation of the RGV, and examine how he absorbed and utilized this significant treatise, which was compiled in India and translated in Northern China. We cannot find even one clear interpretation defining suchness as unconditioned dharma in the Dasheng qixin lun 大乘起信論 (=AF; Awakening of Mahāyāna Faith). In the AF, it is stated that suchness is initially pure. However, due to the fumigation of ignorance, the marks and features of defilement will appear on pure suchness. Suchness, being connected with foundation consciousness, has been regarded as the foundation or origin of conditioned arising in the She dasheng lun chao 攝大乘論抄 (T2806), a significant commentary on the She dasheng lun 攝大乘論 translated by Paramārtha 真諦 (499–569), who has been associated with the AF. Building on this trend in the interpretation of suchness, Zhiyan employs both the AF and the BXL to expound his theory of suchness. He initially utilizes the theory of suchness from the AF and the BXL to argue that all phenomena, including delusion, could arise from suchness. Zhiyan asserts the fumigation/perfume of suchness. The background of Zhiyan's theory of suchness is based on the AF. However, while the AF only mentions the fumigation/perfume of suchness, Zhiyan adds that suchness does not inherently maintain its self-nature but arises conditionally. This marks a significant difference, or development, between the theory of suchness in the AF and that in Zhiyan's Huayan doctrinal system. In my view, the answer lies in the BXL, which Zhiyan himself regards as a key text alongside the AF as the basis for his theory of suchness. Zhiyan finds an intimation of the precious truth in the commentaries of Huiguang 慧光, who was a disciple of Ratnamati, the translator of the BXL, and the founder of the southern branch of the Dilun School. Zhiyan finds the doctrine of infinite dependent arising according to the one vehicle of the distinct teaching (Ch. biejiao yisheng 別教一乘) in Huiguang's commentaries. It indicates that the renderings and interpretations of Ratnamati and Huiguang seem to have deeply influenced Zhiyan. For a long time, many scholars have believed that the RGV had only a minimal impact on East Asian Buddhism, and few have pointed out its influence on Zhiyan. However, through the analysis in this article, I find that Zhiyan places significant importance on the RGV and its Chinese translation BXL. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The effects of navigating the aftermath of tragedies involving children or other major incidents can spill over into nurses’ personal lives, but there is no ‘right’ way to process such distressing events, according to experts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]