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3. Sustainable fashion : to define, or not to define, that is not the question

Author

Palm, Celinda and Palm, Celinda

Abstract

Fashion's unsustainability needs transformative action, as policymakers, business, and wider society all agree. The lack of a clear definition of sustainable fashion is often given as a major reason behind fashion's increasing unsustainability. Taking a social-ecological system perspective, augmented by a feminist critical realist understanding of being (ontology) and knowledge of being (epistemology), I examine the past two decades of academic literature mentioning the concept sustainable fashion. I find a definition is indeed lacking in various academic discourses and approaches related to sustainable fashion. This lack is problematic because it means the fashion industry can talk preposterously without making useful progress on decreasing its negative impacts on people and the living planet. However, the ever-changing patterns and contexts of fashion would soon outdate a single fixed definition. What is presented as a two-sided problem - whether or not to define sustainable fashion - is instead a problematique. Sustainable fashion is better understood as an unsolvable predicament in a complex dynamic intertwined social-ecological system. While no solution exists, there are appropriate reflexive responses. These start by using a critical systems approach that includes fashion's social (non-material) and ecological (material) aspects. A social-ecological system approach prevents businesses from exploiting the slipperiness of inconsistent definitions, aids policymaking by providing context and structure for the many contributory concepts (e.g., slow, green, or circular fashion), and fosters vital transdisciplinary research on sustainable fashion.

Published
2023
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4. The Global Fashion System : On its social-ecological intertwinedness

Author

Palm, Celinda and Palm, Celinda

Abstract

The fashion industry contributes to shaping the state of the planet: impacts of production and consumption of textile fast-fashion are rising, and the growing number of sustainability-oriented actions have not slowed current trends. The industry’s (un)sustainability is mainly researched within two epistemic communities: fashion studies concerned with social sustainability, and circular economy focused on material biophysical and technological aspects of material cycles along the value chain. I argue that this split of social and ecological aspects is the problématique of sustainable fashion, and that the epistemic community of sustainability sciences should turn its attention to fashion. My aim has been to develop a theoretically informed way of thinking critically about the intertwinedness of social-ecological systems, using fashion as a case study. I combine a social-ecological systems approach with critical realism as a metatheory of transdisciplinarity. My four mixed-methods research papers draw from data and information synthesis, ‘Keystone actor’ and business ecosystem analysis, literature review, analysis and critique of texts that shape theory and praxis in social-ecological systems approaches, and metatheoretic integration. Paper I investigates the business ecosystem of the fashion industry´s keystone actors, revealing roles and alliances in sustainability efforts operationalized through wide-ranging industry collaborations. It finds the current focus on internal operations of fashion businesses fails to recognize the potential of other types of actors to influence the pace and direction of the industry’s sustainability efforts. This indicates the importance for policymakers within global sustainability to think beyond value chain boundaries and understand fashion as an intertwined system. Paper II explores why sustainability interventions by the industry and policymakers have not been successful. It demonstrates that deepening the systemic treatment of the, Modeindustrin bidrar till att forma planetens tillstånd: negativa effekter från produktion och konsumtion av fast-fashion ökar, och det ökande antalet hållbarhetsinriktade åtgärder har inte bromsat aktuella trender. Vetenskaplig forskning om modeindustrins (o)hållbarhet ökar inom två epistemiska gemenskaper, studier av mode och dess sociala hållbarhet och cirkulär ekonomi, dessa fokuserar på sociala aspekter eller betonar materiella biofysiska och tekniska aspekter utmed industrins värdekedja. Uppdelning av sociala och ekologiska aspekter bidrar till hållbart modets problématique, varför jag hävdar att det är dags för den epistemiska gemenskapen, hållbarhetsvetenskap att uppmärksamma mode. Mitt mål har varit att, med mode som fallstudie, utveckla ett teoretiskt informerat sätt att tänka kritiskt kring sammanflätningen av social-ekologiska system. Jag förenar en social-ekologisk systemansats med kritisk realism som transdisciplinär metateori. Mina fyra forskningsartiklar använder flera, ofta blandade metoder hämtade från data- och informationssyntes, 'Keystone-aktör' och affärsekosystemanalys, litteraturgranskning, analys och kritik av texter som formar teori och praktik i social-ekologiska systemtillvägagångssätt och metateoretisk integration. Artikel I undersöker affärsekosystemet för modeindustrins ’keystone’-aktörer, och avslöjar roller och allianser i hållbarhetsarbetet som operationaliseras genom branschsamarbeten. Den visar att nuvarande fokus på modeföretagens interna verksamhet fallerar att inse potentialen andra typer av aktörer har gällande påverkan av takt och riktning för hållbarhetsinsatserna. Detta visar vikten av att beslutsfattare inom global hållbarhet, tänker bortom värdekedjans gränser och förstår mode som ett sammanflätat system. Artikel II analyserar varför hållbarhetsinsatser från industrin och beslutsfattare inte har varit framgångsrika. Genom en fördjupad systemisk användning av ramverket Driver-State-Response visar den på en social-ekologisk

Published
2023

5. Re:ally re:think – seeking to understand the matters of sustainable fashion

Author

Palm, Celinda

Subjects
Transdisciplinarity, Social-ecological system, Sustainability, Critical realism, Circular economy, Driver-state-response, DPSIR, Annan samhällsvetenskap, Fashion, Other Natural Sciences, Annan naturvetenskap, Other Social Sciences
Abstract

Academic studies of sustainable fashion, and the discourses of actors in business and policy, under-define fashion as a system by treating the social and ecological aspects of fashion separately. This reduces the potential for academic findings to provide knowledge useful for transformation of the fashion system and obstructs desired outcomes from policy and business responses to fashion’s negative social and environmental impacts. Understanding how fashion works as a system presents a challenge to transdisciplinary efforts for transformation towards sustainability. In this Licentiate, I explore ways to look at fashion using a feminist critical realist social-ecological system approach. I develop a theoretical framework to understand the fashion system, and particularly to understand what is keeping it unsustainable. I view fashion as a ‘nested’ social-ecological system with inseparable social and biophysical parts. I use a feminist lens characterized by diversity; this draws attention to gaps, what is known, missing and absent. To show that social aspects and material aspects are intertwined and cannot be studied independently of each other, I use critical realism as a metatheory. I bring its idea of a stratified reality and the model of the four-planar social being to the social-ecological system approach that forms the core of my work. I combine Ostrom’s frequently used general framework for analysing social-ecological systems with a policy-oriented framework for sustainable development. Drawing from these two frameworks I develop a five principles for a strategy framework for sustainable fashion. In summary, applying the strategy framework within the theoretical framework enables thinking more deeply about the structure and implications of knowledge contributions when taking a social-ecological perspective on actions for sustainability. The two papers in this licentiate thesis examine the effects of ontological standpoints that allow environmental impacts of textile fibres to be analysed in isolation from the cultural and social aspects of fashion. Paper 1, ‘Making Resilient Decisions for Sustainable Circularity of Fashion’, is recently published in the journal Circular Economy and Sustainability (Palm et al. 2021). It aimed to show how current circularity responses to global sustainability challenges have so far fallen short. The current path of the expanding fashion industry is fraught with accelerated material throughputs and increased disposal and waste, contributing to human-driven environmental changes at planetary scale. In addition the fashion industry has issues of poor working conditions, modern-day slavery, and justice. By representing a Driver – State – Response framework as an adaptive cycle of a social-ecological system, it makes it clear that reducing planetary pressure from the global fashion and textiles industry requires greater recognition of the system’s social drivers. This paper was a step towards the iterative development of my sustainable fashion framework. Paper 2, ‘Reviewing and defining the concept of Sustainable Fashion: a critical social-ecological approach’, is included as an early-stage draft manuscript. It aims to provide a starting point for discussions towards a coherent science-business-policy definition of the concept of sustainable fashion itself. Using the five theoretically grounded principles of my strategy framework, I examine the manifold definitions related to sustainable fashion such as eco fashion, green fashion, ethical fashion, slow fashion, organic fashion and cradle-to-cradle-fashion. Critical realism’s idea of absence structures this paper. This thesis contributes to knowledge of what a nested inseparable social-ecological system fashion is, enriching ontological descriptions for resilience research more generally. Also, it provides concrete guidance for transdisciplinary efforts with business and policy working to decrease fashion’s negative impacts on humans and the planet, by showing that fruitful responses pay attention to social activities beyond the industry value chain, not just material flows within. Finally, I hope my research serves as a contribution to propaedeutics of the field of sustainable fashion, i.e. giving an introductory understanding of the reality and the possibilities of fashion for people and planet. The work presented here was part of a consortium research project between Stockholm Resilience Centre and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, initiated and funded by H&M Group, the Swedish public limited company. Celinda Palm, Sarah Cornell and Tiina Häyhä’s employment was part-funded through this project.

Published
2021

7. Keystone actors do not act alone : A business ecosystem perspective on sustainability in the global clothing industry

Author

Hileman, Jacob, Kallstenius, Ivan, Häyhä, Tiina, Palm, Celinda, Cornell, Sarah, Hileman, Jacob, Kallstenius, Ivan, Häyhä, Tiina, Palm, Celinda, and Cornell, Sarah

Abstract

Global industries are typically dominated by a few disproportionately large and influential transnational corporations, or keystone actors. While concentration of economic production is not a new phenomenon, in an increasingly interconnected and globalized world, the scale of the impacts of keystone actors on diverse social-ecological systems continues to grow. In this article, we investigate how keystone actors in the global clothing industry engage in collaboration with a variety of other organizations to address nine interrelated biophysical and socioeconomic sustainability challenges. We expand on previous theoretical and empirical research by focusing on the larger business ecosystem in which keystone actors are embedded, and use network analysis to assess the contributions of different actor types to the architecture of the ecosystem. This systemic approach to the study of keystone actors and sustainability challenges highlights an important source of influence largely not addressed in previous research: the presence of organizations that occupy strategic positions around keystone actors. Such knowledge can help identify governance strategies for advancing industry-wide transformation towards sustainability.

Published
2020
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8. Make EU trade with Brazil sustainable

Author

Kehoe, Laura, Reis, Tiago, Virah-Sawmy, Malika, Balmford, Andrew, Kuemmerle, Tobias, Knohl, Alexander, Antonelli, Alexandre, Hochkirch, Axel, Vira, Bhaskar, Massa, Bruno, Peres, Carlos A., Ammer, Christian, Goerg, Christoph, Schneider, Christoph, Curtis, David, de la Pena, Eduardo, Tello, Enric, Sperfeld, Erik, Corbera, Esteve, Morelli, Federico, Valladares, Fernando, Peterson, Garry, Hide, Geoff, Mace, Georgina, Kallis, Giorgos, Olsson, Gunilla Almered, Brumelis, Guntis, Alexanderson, Helena, Haberl, Helmut, Nuissl, Henning, Kreft, Holger, Ghazoul, Jaboury, Piotrowski, Jan A., Macdiarmid, Jennie, Newig, Jens, Fischer, Joern, Altringham, John, Gledhill, John, Nielsen, Jonas O., Mueller, Joerg, Palmeirim, Jorge, Barlow, Jos, Alonso, Juan C., Presa Asencio, Juan Jose, Steinberger, Julia K., Jones, Julia Patricia Gordon, Cabral, Juliano Sarmento, Dengler, Juergen, Stibral, Karel, Erb, Karlheinz, Rothhaupt, Karl-Otto, Wiegand, Kerstin, Cassar, Louis F., Lens, Luc, Rosalino, Luis Miguel, Wassen, M. J., Stenseke, Marie, Fischer-Kowalski, Marina, Diaz, Mario, Rounsevell, Mark, van Kleunen, Mark, Junginger, Martin, Kaltenpoth, Martin, Zobel, Martin, Weigend, Maximilian, Partel, Meelis, Schilthuizen, Menno, Bastos Araujo, Miguel, Haklay, Muki, Eisenhauer, Nico, Selva, Nuria, Mertz, Ole, Meyfroidt, Patrick, Borges, Paulo A. V., Kovar, Pavel, Smith, Pete, Verburg, Peter, Pysek, Petr, Seppelt, Ralf, Valentini, Riccardo, Whittaker, Robert J., Henrique Faria, Sergio, Ulgiati, Sergio, Loetters, Stefan, Bjorck, Svante, Larson, Sven Ake, Tscharntke, Teja, Domingos, Tiago, Krueger, Tobias, Pascual, Unai, Olsson, Urban, Kati, Vassiliki, Winiwarter, Verena, Reyes-Garcia, Victoria, Vajda, Vivi, Sutherland, William J., de Waroux, Yann le Polain, Buckley, Yvonne, Rammig, Anja, Kasimir, Asa, Crona, Beatrice, Sindicic, Magda, Persson, Martin, Lapka, Miloslav, Di Gregorio, Monica, Hahn, Thomas, Boonstra, Wiebren, Lipsky, Zdenek, Zucaro, A., Roeder, Achim, Lopez Baucells, Adria, Danet, Alain, Franco, Aldina, Nieto Roman, Alejandra, Lehikoinen, Aleksi, Collalti, Alessio, Keller, Alexander, Strugariu, Alexandru, Perrigo, Allison, Fernandez-Llamazares, Alvaro, Salaseviciene, Alvija, Hinsley, Amy, Santos, Ana M. C., Novoa, Ana, Rodrigues, Ana, Mascarenhas, Andre, Martins, Andrea Damacena, Holzschuh, Andrea, Meseguer, Andrea S., Hadjichambis, Andreas, Mayer, Andreas, Hacket-Pain, Andrew, Ringsmuth, Andrew, de Frutos, Angel, Stein, Anke, Heikkinen, Anna, Smith, Annabel, Bjoersne, Anna-Karin, Bagneres, Anne-Genevieve, Machordom, Annie, Kristin, Anton, Ghoddousi, Arash, Staal, Arie, Martin, Arnaud, Taylor, Astrid, Borrell, Asuncion, Marescaux, Audrey, Torres, Aurora, Helm, Aveliina, Bauer, Barbara, Smetschka, Barbara, Rodriguez-Labajos, Beatriz, Peco, Begona, Gambin, Belinda, Celine, Bellard, Phalan, Ben, Cotta, Benedetta, Rugani, Benedetto, Jarcuska, Benjamin, Leroy, Boris, Nikolov, Boris Petrov, Milchev, Boyan Petrov, Brown, Calum, Ritter, Camila Duarte, Gomes, Carmen Bessa, Meyer, Carsten, Munteanu, Catalina, Penone, Caterina, Friis, Cecilie, Teplitsky, Celine, Roemer, Charlotte, Orland, Chloe, Voigt, Christian C., Levers, Christian, Zang, Christian, Bacon, Christine D., Meyer, Christoph, Wordley, Claire, Grilo, Clara, Cattaneo, Claudio, Battisti, Corrado, Banks-Leite, Cristina, Zurell, Damaris, Challender, Dan, Mueller, Daniel, Matenaar, Daniela, Silvestro, Daniele, McKay, David Armstrong, Buckley, David, Frantz, David, Gremillet, David, Mateos, David Moreno, Sanchez-Fernandez, David, Vieites, David, Ascoli, Davide, Arlt, Debora, Louis, Deharveng, Zemp, Delphine Clara, Strubbe, Diederik, Gil, Diego, Llusia, Diego, Bennett, Dominic J., Chobanov, Dragan Petrov, Aguilera, Eduardo, Oliveira, Eduardo, Pynegar, Edwin L., Granda, Elena, Grieco, Elisa, Conrad, Elisabeth, Revilla, Eloy, Lindkvist, Emilie, Caprio, Enrico, zu Ermgassen, Erasmus, Berenguer, Erika, Ochu, Erinma, Polaina, Ester, Nuernberger, Fabian, Esculier, Fabien, de Castro, Fabio, Albanito, Fabrizio, Langerwisch, Fanny, Batsleer, Femke, Ascensao, Fernando, Moyano, Fernando Esteban, Sayol, Ferran, Buzzetti, Filippo Maria, Eiro, Flavio, Volaire, Florence, Gollnow, Florian, Menzel, Florian, Pilo, Francesca, Moreira, Francisco, Briens, Francois, Essl, Franz, Vlahos, George, Billen, Gilles, Vacchiano, Giorgio, Wong, Grace, Gruychev, Gradimir Valentinov, Fandos, Guillermo, Petter, Gunnar, Sinare, Hanna, Mumby, Hannah S., Cottyn, Hanne, Seebens, Hanno, Bjorklund, Heidi, Schroeder, Heike, Lopez Hernandez, Heriberto D., Rebelo, Hugo, Chenet, Hugues, De la Riva, Ignacio, Torre, Ignasi, Aalders, Inge, Grass, Ingo, Chuine, Isabelle, Goepel, Jan, Wieringa, Jan J., Engler, Jan O., Pergl, Jan, Schnitzler, Jan, Vavra, Jan, Medvedovic, Jasna, Cabello, Javier, Martin, Jean-Louis, Mutke, Jens, Lewis, Jerome, da Silva, Jessica Fonseca, Marull, Joan, Carvalho, Joana, Carnicer, Jofre, Enqvist, Johan, Simaika, John P., Noguera, Jose C., Blanco Moreno, Jose M., Bruna, Josef, Garnier, Josette, Fargallo, Juan A., Rocha, Juan Carlos, Carrillo, Juan D., Infante-Amate, Juan, Traba Diaz, Juan, Schleicher, Judith, Simon, Judy, Noe, Julia Le, Gerlach, Justin, Eriksson, K. Martin, Prince, Karine, Ostapowicz, Katarzyna, Stajerova, Katerina, Farrell, Katharine N., Snell, Katherine, Yates, Katherine, Fleischer, Katrin, Darras, Kevin, Schumacher, Kim, Orach, Kirill, Thonicke, Kirsten, Riede, Klaus, Heller, Klaus-Gerhard, Wang-Erlandsson, Lan, Pereira, Laura, Riggi, Laura, Florez, Laura V., Emperaire, Laure, Durieux, Laurent, Tatin, Laurent, Rozylowicz, Laurentiu, Latella, Leonardo, Andresen, Louise C., Cahen-Fourot, Louison, de Agua, Luis Borda, Boto, Luis, Lassaletta, Luis, Amo, Luisa, Sekerka, Lukas, Morales, Manuel B., Macia, Manuel J., Suarez, Manuela Gonzalez, Cabeza, Mar, Londo, Marc, Pollet, Marc, Schwieder, Marcel, Peters, Marcell K., D'Amico, Marcello, Casazza, Marco, Florencio, Margarita, Felipe-Lucia, Maria, Gebara, Maria Fernanda, Johansson, Maria, Garcia, Maria Mancilla, Piquer-Rodriguez, Maria, Tengo, Maria, Elias, Marianne, Leve, Marine, Conde, Marta, Winter, Marten, Koster, Martijn, Mayer, Martin, Salek, Martin, Schlerf, Martin, Sullivan, Martin, Baumann, Matthias, Pichler, Melanie, Marselle, Melissa, Oddie, Melissa, Razanajatovo, Mialy, Borregaard, Michael Krabbe, Theurl, Michaela C., Hernandez, Miguel, Krofel, Miha, Kechev, Mihail Ognianov, Clark, Mike, Rands, Mike, Antal, Miklos, Pucetaite, Milda, Islar, Mine, Truong, Minh-Xuan A., Vighi, Morgana, Johanisova, Nadia, Prat, Narcis, Escobar, Neus, Deguines, Nicolas, Rust, Niki, Zafra-Calvo, Noelia, Maurel, Noelie, Wagner, Norman, Fitton, Nuala, Ostermann, Ole, Panferov, Oleg, Ange, Olivia, Canals, Oriol, Englund, Oskar, De Smedt, Pallieter, Petridis, Panos, Heikkurinen, Pasi, Weigelt, Patrick, Henriksson, Patrik J. G., de Castro, Paula Drummond, Matos-Maravi, Pavel, Duran, Paz, Aragon, Pedro, Cardoso, Pedro, Leitao, Pedro J., Hosner, Peter A., Biedermann, Peter, Keil, Petr, Petrik, Petr, Martin, Philip, Bocquillon, Pierre, Renaud, Pierre-Cyril, Addison, Prue, Antwis, Rachael, Carmenta, Rachel, Barrientos, Rafael, Smith, Rebecca, Rocha, Ricardo, Fuchs, Richard, Felix, Rob, Kanka, Robert, Aguilee, Robin, Padro Caminal, Roc, Libbrecht, Romain, Lorrilliere, Romain, van der Ent, Ruud J., Henders, Sabine, Pueyo, Salvador, Roturier, Samuel, Jacobs, Sander, Lavorel, Sandra, Leonhardt, Sara Diana, Fraixedas, Sara, Villen-Perez, Sara, Cornell, Sarah, Redlich, Sarah, De Smedt, Sebastian, van der Linden, Sebastian, Perez-Ortega, Sergio, Petrovan, Silviu, Cesarz, Simone, Sjoberg, Sissel, Caillon, Sophie, Schindler, Stefan, Trogisch, Stefan, Taiti, Stefano, Oppel, Steffen, Lutter, Stephan, Garnett, Tara, Guedes, Thais, Wanger, Thomas Cherico, Kastner, Thomas, Worthington, Thomas, Daw, Tim, Schmoll, Tim, McPhearson, Timon, Engl, Tobias, Rutting, Tobias, Vaclavik, Tomas, Jucker, Tommaso, Robillard, Tony, Krause, Torsten, Ljubomirov, Toshko, Aavik, Tsipe, Richardson, Vanessa A., Masterson, Vanessa Anne, Seufert, Verena, Cathy, Vet Gibault, Colino Rabanal, Victor, Montade, Vincent, Thieu, Vincent, Sober, Virve, Morin, Xavier, Mehrabi, Zia, Gonzalez, Adriana Trompetero, Sanz-Cobena, Alberto, Christie, Alec Philip, Romero-Munoz, Alfredo, Dauriach, Alice, Queiroz, Allan Souza, Golland, Ami, Evans, Amy Louise, Cordero, Ana Maria Araujo, Dara, Andrey, Rilovic, Andro, Pedersen, Anna Frohn, Csergo, Anna Maria, Lewerentz, Anne, Monserand, Antoine, Valdecasas, Antonio G., Doherty, Anya, Semper-Pascual, Asuncion, Bleyhl, Benjamin, Rutschmann, Benjamin, Bongalov, Boris, Hankerson, Brett, Heylen, Brigitte, Alonso-Alvarez, Carlos, Comandulli, Carolina, Frossard, Carolina M., Mckeon, Caroline, Godde, Cecile, Palm, Celinda, Singh, Chandrakant, Sieger, Charlotte Sophie, Ohrling, Christian, Paitan, Claudia Parra, Cooper, Conor, Edler, Daniel, Roessler, Daniela C., Kessner-Beierlein, Daniela, Garcia del Amo, David, Lopez Bosch, David, Gueldner, Dino, Noll, Domink, Motivans, Elena, Canteri, Elisabetta, Garnett, Emma, Malecore, Eva, Brambach, Fabian, Ruedenauer, Fabian, Yin, Fang, Hurtado, Fernando, Mempel, Finn, de Freitas, Flavio Luiz Mazzaro, Pendrill, Florence, Leijten, Floris, Somma, Francesca, Schug, Franz, De Knijf, Geert, Peterson, Gustaf, Pe'er, Guy, Booth, Hollie, Rhee, Howon, Staude, Ingmar, Gherghel, Iulian, Vila Traver, Jaime, Kerner, Janika, Hinton, Jennifer, Hortal, Joaquin, Persson, Joel, Uddling, Johan, Coenen, Johanna, Geldmann, Jonas, Geschke, Jonas, Juergensen, Jonathan, Lobo, Jorge M., Skejo, Josip, Heinen, Julia Helena, Schuenzel, Julia, Daniel-Ferreira, Juliana, Christophe Piquet, Julien, Murtough, Katie L., Prevel, Leonie, Hissa, Leticia B. V., af Segerstad, Louise Hard, Willemse, Luc, Benavides, Lucia, Sovova, Lucie, Figueiredo, Ludmilla, Leidinger, Ludwig, Piemontese, Luigi, da Fonte, Luis Fernando Marin, Moreta, Lys Sanz, Bhan, Manan, Toledo-Hernandez, Manuel, Engert, Manuela, Davoli, Marco, Mas Navarro, Maria, Voigt, Maria, Zirion, Maria, Wandl, Marie-Theres, Kipson, Marina, Johnson, Mark D., Lukic, Marko, Goula, Marta, Jung, Martin, Nunes, Matheus Henrique, Alvarez, Matheus Rodriguez, van den Burg, Matthijs P., Guerrero, Mayra Daniela Pena, Greenfield, Michael, Lobmann, Michael, Nygren, Michelle, Guth, Miriam Karen, Koh, Niak, Stanek, Nicola, Roux, Nicolas, Karagouni, Niki, Tiralla, Nina, Mairota, Paola, Savaget, Paulo, von Doehren, Peer, Benyei, Petra, Lena, Philippe, Rufin, Philippe, Janke, Rebekka, Santagata, Remo, Motta, Renzo, Battiston, Roberto, Oyanedel, Rodrigo, Bernardo-Madrid, Ruben, Vasconcelos, Sasha, Henriques, Sergio, Bager, Simon L., Qin, Siyu, Ivkovic, Slobodan, Cooke, Sophia, Ernst, Stefan, Schmelzer, Stefan, da Silva, Sven, Faberova, Tamara, Enseroth, Tanja, De Marzo, Teresa, Pienkowski, Thomas, Engel, Thore, Boehnert, Tim, Swinfield, Tom, Kurdikova, Vendula, Chvatalova, Veronika, Lopez-Marquez, Violeta, Arlidge, William, Zhang, Zhijie, Kehoe, Laura, Reis, Tiago, Virah-Sawmy, Malika, Balmford, Andrew, Kuemmerle, Tobias, Knohl, Alexander, Antonelli, Alexandre, Hochkirch, Axel, Vira, Bhaskar, Massa, Bruno, Peres, Carlos A., Ammer, Christian, Goerg, Christoph, Schneider, Christoph, Curtis, David, de la Pena, Eduardo, Tello, Enric, Sperfeld, Erik, Corbera, Esteve, Morelli, Federico, Valladares, Fernando, Peterson, Garry, Hide, Geoff, Mace, Georgina, Kallis, Giorgos, Olsson, Gunilla Almered, Brumelis, Guntis, Alexanderson, Helena, Haberl, Helmut, Nuissl, Henning, Kreft, Holger, Ghazoul, Jaboury, Piotrowski, Jan A., Macdiarmid, Jennie, Newig, Jens, Fischer, Joern, Altringham, John, Gledhill, John, Nielsen, Jonas O., Mueller, Joerg, Palmeirim, Jorge, Barlow, Jos, Alonso, Juan C., Presa Asencio, Juan Jose, Steinberger, Julia K., Jones, Julia Patricia Gordon, Cabral, Juliano Sarmento, Dengler, Juergen, Stibral, Karel, Erb, Karlheinz, Rothhaupt, Karl-Otto, Wiegand, Kerstin, Cassar, Louis F., Lens, Luc, Rosalino, Luis Miguel, Wassen, M. J., Stenseke, Marie, Fischer-Kowalski, Marina, Diaz, Mario, Rounsevell, Mark, van Kleunen, Mark, Junginger, Martin, Kaltenpoth, Martin, Zobel, Martin, Weigend, Maximilian, Partel, Meelis, Schilthuizen, Menno, Bastos Araujo, Miguel, Haklay, Muki, Eisenhauer, Nico, Selva, Nuria, Mertz, Ole, Meyfroidt, Patrick, Borges, Paulo A. V., Kovar, Pavel, Smith, Pete, Verburg, Peter, Pysek, Petr, Seppelt, Ralf, Valentini, Riccardo, Whittaker, Robert J., Henrique Faria, Sergio, Ulgiati, Sergio, Loetters, Stefan, Bjorck, Svante, Larson, Sven Ake, Tscharntke, Teja, Domingos, Tiago, Krueger, Tobias, Pascual, Unai, Olsson, Urban, Kati, Vassiliki, Winiwarter, Verena, Reyes-Garcia, Victoria, Vajda, Vivi, Sutherland, William J., de Waroux, Yann le Polain, Buckley, Yvonne, Rammig, Anja, Kasimir, Asa, Crona, Beatrice, Sindicic, Magda, Persson, Martin, Lapka, Miloslav, Di Gregorio, Monica, Hahn, Thomas, Boonstra, Wiebren, Lipsky, Zdenek, Zucaro, A., Roeder, Achim, Lopez Baucells, Adria, Danet, Alain, Franco, Aldina, Nieto Roman, Alejandra, Lehikoinen, Aleksi, Collalti, Alessio, Keller, Alexander, Strugariu, Alexandru, Perrigo, Allison, Fernandez-Llamazares, Alvaro, Salaseviciene, Alvija, Hinsley, Amy, Santos, Ana M. C., Novoa, Ana, Rodrigues, Ana, Mascarenhas, Andre, Martins, Andrea Damacena, Holzschuh, Andrea, Meseguer, Andrea S., Hadjichambis, Andreas, Mayer, Andreas, Hacket-Pain, Andrew, Ringsmuth, Andrew, de Frutos, Angel, Stein, Anke, Heikkinen, Anna, Smith, Annabel, Bjoersne, Anna-Karin, Bagneres, Anne-Genevieve, Machordom, Annie, Kristin, Anton, Ghoddousi, Arash, Staal, Arie, Martin, Arnaud, Taylor, Astrid, Borrell, Asuncion, Marescaux, Audrey, Torres, Aurora, Helm, Aveliina, Bauer, Barbara, Smetschka, Barbara, Rodriguez-Labajos, Beatriz, Peco, Begona, Gambin, Belinda, Celine, Bellard, Phalan, Ben, Cotta, Benedetta, Rugani, Benedetto, Jarcuska, Benjamin, Leroy, Boris, Nikolov, Boris Petrov, Milchev, Boyan Petrov, Brown, Calum, Ritter, Camila Duarte, Gomes, Carmen Bessa, Meyer, Carsten, Munteanu, Catalina, Penone, Caterina, Friis, Cecilie, Teplitsky, Celine, Roemer, Charlotte, Orland, Chloe, Voigt, Christian C., Levers, Christian, Zang, Christian, Bacon, Christine D., Meyer, Christoph, Wordley, Claire, Grilo, Clara, Cattaneo, Claudio, Battisti, Corrado, Banks-Leite, Cristina, Zurell, Damaris, Challender, Dan, Mueller, Daniel, Matenaar, Daniela, Silvestro, Daniele, McKay, David Armstrong, Buckley, David, Frantz, David, Gremillet, David, Mateos, David Moreno, Sanchez-Fernandez, David, Vieites, David, Ascoli, Davide, Arlt, Debora, Louis, Deharveng, Zemp, Delphine Clara, Strubbe, Diederik, Gil, Diego, Llusia, Diego, Bennett, Dominic J., Chobanov, Dragan Petrov, Aguilera, Eduardo, Oliveira, Eduardo, Pynegar, Edwin L., Granda, Elena, Grieco, Elisa, Conrad, Elisabeth, Revilla, Eloy, Lindkvist, Emilie, Caprio, Enrico, zu Ermgassen, Erasmus, Berenguer, Erika, Ochu, Erinma, Polaina, Ester, Nuernberger, Fabian, Esculier, Fabien, de Castro, Fabio, Albanito, Fabrizio, Langerwisch, Fanny, Batsleer, Femke, Ascensao, Fernando, Moyano, Fernando Esteban, Sayol, Ferran, Buzzetti, Filippo Maria, Eiro, Flavio, Volaire, Florence, Gollnow, Florian, Menzel, Florian, Pilo, Francesca, Moreira, Francisco, Briens, Francois, Essl, Franz, Vlahos, George, Billen, Gilles, Vacchiano, Giorgio, Wong, Grace, Gruychev, Gradimir Valentinov, Fandos, Guillermo, Petter, Gunnar, Sinare, Hanna, Mumby, Hannah S., Cottyn, Hanne, Seebens, Hanno, Bjorklund, Heidi, Schroeder, Heike, Lopez Hernandez, Heriberto D., Rebelo, Hugo, Chenet, Hugues, De la Riva, Ignacio, Torre, Ignasi, Aalders, Inge, Grass, Ingo, Chuine, Isabelle, Goepel, Jan, Wieringa, Jan J., Engler, Jan O., Pergl, Jan, Schnitzler, Jan, Vavra, Jan, Medvedovic, Jasna, Cabello, Javier, Martin, Jean-Louis, Mutke, Jens, Lewis, Jerome, da Silva, Jessica Fonseca, Marull, Joan, Carvalho, Joana, Carnicer, Jofre, Enqvist, Johan, Simaika, John P., Noguera, Jose C., Blanco Moreno, Jose M., Bruna, Josef, Garnier, Josette, Fargallo, Juan A., Rocha, Juan Carlos, Carrillo, Juan D., Infante-Amate, Juan, Traba Diaz, Juan, Schleicher, Judith, Simon, Judy, Noe, Julia Le, Gerlach, Justin, Eriksson, K. Martin, Prince, Karine, Ostapowicz, Katarzyna, Stajerova, Katerina, Farrell, Katharine N., Snell, Katherine, Yates, Katherine, Fleischer, Katrin, Darras, Kevin, Schumacher, Kim, Orach, Kirill, Thonicke, Kirsten, Riede, Klaus, Heller, Klaus-Gerhard, Wang-Erlandsson, Lan, Pereira, Laura, Riggi, Laura, Florez, Laura V., Emperaire, Laure, Durieux, Laurent, Tatin, Laurent, Rozylowicz, Laurentiu, Latella, Leonardo, Andresen, Louise C., Cahen-Fourot, Louison, de Agua, Luis Borda, Boto, Luis, Lassaletta, Luis, Amo, Luisa, Sekerka, Lukas, Morales, Manuel B., Macia, Manuel J., Suarez, Manuela Gonzalez, Cabeza, Mar, Londo, Marc, Pollet, Marc, Schwieder, Marcel, Peters, Marcell K., D'Amico, Marcello, Casazza, Marco, Florencio, Margarita, Felipe-Lucia, Maria, Gebara, Maria Fernanda, Johansson, Maria, Garcia, Maria Mancilla, Piquer-Rodriguez, Maria, Tengo, Maria, Elias, Marianne, Leve, Marine, Conde, Marta, Winter, Marten, Koster, Martijn, Mayer, Martin, Salek, Martin, Schlerf, Martin, Sullivan, Martin, Baumann, Matthias, Pichler, Melanie, Marselle, Melissa, Oddie, Melissa, Razanajatovo, Mialy, Borregaard, Michael Krabbe, Theurl, Michaela C., Hernandez, Miguel, Krofel, Miha, Kechev, Mihail Ognianov, Clark, Mike, Rands, Mike, Antal, Miklos, Pucetaite, Milda, Islar, Mine, Truong, Minh-Xuan A., Vighi, Morgana, Johanisova, Nadia, Prat, Narcis, Escobar, Neus, Deguines, Nicolas, Rust, Niki, Zafra-Calvo, Noelia, Maurel, Noelie, Wagner, Norman, Fitton, Nuala, Ostermann, Ole, Panferov, Oleg, Ange, Olivia, Canals, Oriol, Englund, Oskar, De Smedt, Pallieter, Petridis, Panos, Heikkurinen, Pasi, Weigelt, Patrick, Henriksson, Patrik J. G., de Castro, Paula Drummond, Matos-Maravi, Pavel, Duran, Paz, Aragon, Pedro, Cardoso, Pedro, Leitao, Pedro J., Hosner, Peter A., Biedermann, Peter, Keil, Petr, Petrik, Petr, Martin, Philip, Bocquillon, Pierre, Renaud, Pierre-Cyril, Addison, Prue, Antwis, Rachael, Carmenta, Rachel, Barrientos, Rafael, Smith, Rebecca, Rocha, Ricardo, Fuchs, Richard, Felix, Rob, Kanka, Robert, Aguilee, Robin, Padro Caminal, Roc, Libbrecht, Romain, Lorrilliere, Romain, van der Ent, Ruud J., Henders, Sabine, Pueyo, Salvador, Roturier, Samuel, Jacobs, Sander, Lavorel, Sandra, Leonhardt, Sara Diana, Fraixedas, Sara, Villen-Perez, Sara, Cornell, Sarah, Redlich, Sarah, De Smedt, Sebastian, van der Linden, Sebastian, Perez-Ortega, Sergio, Petrovan, Silviu, Cesarz, Simone, Sjoberg, Sissel, Caillon, Sophie, Schindler, Stefan, Trogisch, Stefan, Taiti, Stefano, Oppel, Steffen, Lutter, Stephan, Garnett, Tara, Guedes, Thais, Wanger, Thomas Cherico, Kastner, Thomas, Worthington, Thomas, Daw, Tim, Schmoll, Tim, McPhearson, Timon, Engl, Tobias, Rutting, Tobias, Vaclavik, Tomas, Jucker, Tommaso, Robillard, Tony, Krause, Torsten, Ljubomirov, Toshko, Aavik, Tsipe, Richardson, Vanessa A., Masterson, Vanessa Anne, Seufert, Verena, Cathy, Vet Gibault, Colino Rabanal, Victor, Montade, Vincent, Thieu, Vincent, Sober, Virve, Morin, Xavier, Mehrabi, Zia, Gonzalez, Adriana Trompetero, Sanz-Cobena, Alberto, Christie, Alec Philip, Romero-Munoz, Alfredo, Dauriach, Alice, Queiroz, Allan Souza, Golland, Ami, Evans, Amy Louise, Cordero, Ana Maria Araujo, Dara, Andrey, Rilovic, Andro, Pedersen, Anna Frohn, Csergo, Anna Maria, Lewerentz, Anne, Monserand, Antoine, Valdecasas, Antonio G., Doherty, Anya, Semper-Pascual, Asuncion, Bleyhl, Benjamin, Rutschmann, Benjamin, Bongalov, Boris, Hankerson, Brett, Heylen, Brigitte, Alonso-Alvarez, Carlos, Comandulli, Carolina, Frossard, Carolina M., Mckeon, Caroline, Godde, Cecile, Palm, Celinda, Singh, Chandrakant, Sieger, Charlotte Sophie, Ohrling, Christian, Paitan, Claudia Parra, Cooper, Conor, Edler, Daniel, Roessler, Daniela C., Kessner-Beierlein, Daniela, Garcia del Amo, David, Lopez Bosch, David, Gueldner, Dino, Noll, Domink, Motivans, Elena, Canteri, Elisabetta, Garnett, Emma, Malecore, Eva, Brambach, Fabian, Ruedenauer, Fabian, Yin, Fang, Hurtado, Fernando, Mempel, Finn, de Freitas, Flavio Luiz Mazzaro, Pendrill, Florence, Leijten, Floris, Somma, Francesca, Schug, Franz, De Knijf, Geert, Peterson, Gustaf, Pe'er, Guy, Booth, Hollie, Rhee, Howon, Staude, Ingmar, Gherghel, Iulian, Vila Traver, Jaime, Kerner, Janika, Hinton, Jennifer, Hortal, Joaquin, Persson, Joel, Uddling, Johan, Coenen, Johanna, Geldmann, Jonas, Geschke, Jonas, Juergensen, Jonathan, Lobo, Jorge M., Skejo, Josip, Heinen, Julia Helena, Schuenzel, Julia, Daniel-Ferreira, Juliana, Christophe Piquet, Julien, Murtough, Katie L., Prevel, Leonie, Hissa, Leticia B. V., af Segerstad, Louise Hard, Willemse, Luc, Benavides, Lucia, Sovova, Lucie, Figueiredo, Ludmilla, Leidinger, Ludwig, Piemontese, Luigi, da Fonte, Luis Fernando Marin, Moreta, Lys Sanz, Bhan, Manan, Toledo-Hernandez, Manuel, Engert, Manuela, Davoli, Marco, Mas Navarro, Maria, Voigt, Maria, Zirion, Maria, Wandl, Marie-Theres, Kipson, Marina, Johnson, Mark D., Lukic, Marko, Goula, Marta, Jung, Martin, Nunes, Matheus Henrique, Alvarez, Matheus Rodriguez, van den Burg, Matthijs P., Guerrero, Mayra Daniela Pena, Greenfield, Michael, Lobmann, Michael, Nygren, Michelle, Guth, Miriam Karen, Koh, Niak, Stanek, Nicola, Roux, Nicolas, Karagouni, Niki, Tiralla, Nina, Mairota, Paola, Savaget, Paulo, von Doehren, Peer, Benyei, Petra, Lena, Philippe, Rufin, Philippe, Janke, Rebekka, Santagata, Remo, Motta, Renzo, Battiston, Roberto, Oyanedel, Rodrigo, Bernardo-Madrid, Ruben, Vasconcelos, Sasha, Henriques, Sergio, Bager, Simon L., Qin, Siyu, Ivkovic, Slobodan, Cooke, Sophia, Ernst, Stefan, Schmelzer, Stefan, da Silva, Sven, Faberova, Tamara, Enseroth, Tanja, De Marzo, Teresa, Pienkowski, Thomas, Engel, Thore, Boehnert, Tim, Swinfield, Tom, Kurdikova, Vendula, Chvatalova, Veronika, Lopez-Marquez, Violeta, Arlidge, William, and Zhang, Zhijie

Published
2019
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9. A Fashion System Without Getting Dressed? A Two-Strand Approach Towards Understanding How to Define and Transform a Global Complex Social-Ecological System

Author

Palm, Celinda and Palm, Celinda

Abstract

In this thesis, I view the global Fashion System in terms of hybridity, with the intention of developing a theoretical understanding of a sustainable fashion system. I explore a perpetuated micro-scale activity – getting dressed each day – as a driver of the fashion system. Thereby aiming to help in redefining and clarifying the dynamics of fashion as a complex social-ecological system, to inform of risks and opportunities towards sustainable fashion. This project has two strands; Firstly, a theoretical understanding of fashion as a social-ecological system emphasizing social and abstract representations. Secondly, an action-oriented research approach for understanding how the frameworks applied in a science-business collaborative project relate to sustainable fashion and how that affects their work. For this, I draw on Critical Realism as meta-theory, where the real world consists of both material and non-material stratified layers. Dividing the fashion system in four stratified layers; physical, material interaction, socio-economic and culture, allows the bridging of theory and practice. I argue that three concepts hybridity, modernity and fashion are essential for visioning a future sustainable fashion system and that key social-ecological resilience theories are limited for weaving them together. I found that transformations towards sustainable fashion cannot be reduced to merely socio-technical solutions, as individual’s everyday perpetuated activity of getting dressed is linked to global negative environmental impacts. In the science-business collaborative project, key challenges were identified: inadequate amount of time, and absence of knowledge regarding the fashion industry and fashion theory as well as absence of critical reflections. Finally, I found that the concepts of affordances provide a useful link between human, ‘things’ and the abstract entities created through the value chains of the fashion system. Thus, I propose that affordances could be dev

Published
2017

10. Making sense of fashion : a critical social-ecological approach

Author

Palm, Celinda, Cornell, Sarah E., Palm, Celinda, and Cornell, Sarah E.

Abstract

Transdisciplinary studies and sustainability transformations of fashion are hindered by the gaps between social and biophysical conceptualizations of fashion. Using a critical realist metatheoretic approach we examine fashion as a social-ecological system and we show how big and deep these gaps are. In our indicative review of key contributory fields of study of fashion and the textiles industry, we find stark absences in current conceptualizations of social and biophysical issues, and we discuss how these missing links affect understanding of the global fashion system’s unsustainable dynamics., Preprint available on; http://ssrn.com/abstract=4043520

11. Sustainable fashion : To define, or not to define, that is the question

Author

Palm, Celinda and Palm, Celinda

Abstract

Fashion’s unsustainability is increasingly getting attention from policymakers, researchers, fashion stakeholders and individual users, with consensus that it is a problem that needs addressing, but there is still disagreement on what sustainable fashion is. Claims are made that the lack of a clear definition of sustainable fashion is a major reason behind fashion’s increasing unsustainability. To understand the correctness of that claim, I use a social-ecological system perspective expanded by a feminist critical realist understanding of being (ontology) and knowledge of being (epistemology) to examine and critique the growing body of literature published over the past two decades that mentions the concept ‘sustainable fashion’. I find that a definition is indeed lacking in various academic discourses and approaches related to sustainable fashion. This is problematic because it means that the fashion industry can talk preposterously without making useful progress on decreasing its negative impacts on people and the living planet. It is also not problematic because the patterns and contexts of fashion are constantly changing so a definition would soon be outdated and rather useless. Rather than arguing about a single definition and to prevent businesses from exploiting the slipperiness of inconsistent definitions, policy and academic discourses on sustainable fashion would benefit from collaborations using a systems approach that includes fashion’s social [non-material] and ecological [material] aspects. The conclusion is that discourses concerned with sustainability of fashion need to think in plural of sustainable fashions.

12. Making sense of fashion : a critical social-ecological approach

Author

Palm, Celinda, Cornell, Sarah E., Palm, Celinda, and Cornell, Sarah E.

Abstract

Transdisciplinary studies and sustainability transformations of fashion are hindered by the gaps between social and biophysical conceptualizations of fashion. Using a critical realist metatheoretic approach we examine fashion as a social-ecological system and we show how big and deep these gaps are. In our indicative review of key contributory fields of study of fashion and the textiles industry, we find stark absences in current conceptualizations of social and biophysical issues, and we discuss how these missing links affect understanding of the global fashion system’s unsustainable dynamics., Preprint available on; http://ssrn.com/abstract=4043520

13. Making sense of fashion : a critical social-ecological approach

Author

Palm, Celinda, Cornell, Sarah E., Palm, Celinda, and Cornell, Sarah E.

Abstract

Transdisciplinary studies and sustainability transformations of fashion are hindered by the gaps between social and biophysical conceptualizations of fashion. Using a critical realist metatheoretic approach we examine fashion as a social-ecological system and we show how big and deep these gaps are. In our indicative review of key contributory fields of study of fashion and the textiles industry, we find stark absences in current conceptualizations of social and biophysical issues, and we discuss how these missing links affect understanding of the global fashion system’s unsustainable dynamics., Preprint available on; http://ssrn.com/abstract=4043520

14. Making sense of fashion : a critical social-ecological approach

Author

Palm, Celinda, Cornell, Sarah E., Palm, Celinda, and Cornell, Sarah E.

Abstract

Transdisciplinary studies and sustainability transformations of fashion are hindered by the gaps between social and biophysical conceptualizations of fashion. Using a critical realist metatheoretic approach we examine fashion as a social-ecological system and we show how big and deep these gaps are. In our indicative review of key contributory fields of study of fashion and the textiles industry, we find stark absences in current conceptualizations of social and biophysical issues, and we discuss how these missing links affect understanding of the global fashion system’s unsustainable dynamics., Preprint available on; http://ssrn.com/abstract=4043520

15. Making sense of fashion : a critical social-ecological approach

Author

Palm, Celinda, Cornell, Sarah E., Palm, Celinda, and Cornell, Sarah E.

Abstract

Transdisciplinary studies and sustainability transformations of fashion are hindered by the gaps between social and biophysical conceptualizations of fashion. Using a critical realist metatheoretic approach we examine fashion as a social-ecological system and we show how big and deep these gaps are. In our indicative review of key contributory fields of study of fashion and the textiles industry, we find stark absences in current conceptualizations of social and biophysical issues, and we discuss how these missing links affect understanding of the global fashion system’s unsustainable dynamics., Preprint available on; http://ssrn.com/abstract=4043520

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