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Chloracne, also known as metabolizing acquired dioxin-induced skin hamartomas (MADISH), is a rare disfiguring disease related to dioxin exposure. There is a paucity of literature on the clinical manifestations and pathogenesis of chloracne/MADISH. The aim of this study was to assess the clinical features of this very unusual acneiform eruption and to explore the pathogenesis of the disease. This was a retrospective, observational report study was conducted on five patients belonging to the same nuclear family (father, mother and three children) and a relative (father's brother) living in the same house. Histopathological, immunohistochemical, laboratory and toxicological analyses were performed for all patients. The results suggest that CYP1A1 in human skin is a diagnostic biomarker in chloracne, and was positive for all the patients in our sample. Tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin is the most investigated dioxin responsible for chloracne; however, several other agonists, whether dioxin-like or not, can activate the aryl hydrocarbon receptor. To our knowledge, this Italian case series is the first study to suggest polychlorinated biphenyls as a possible cause of an overstimulation of aryl hydrocarbons causing the consequent acneiform eruption.

In adipocytes and sebocytes, lipid droplet proteins control the storage of lipids in organized droplets and their release on demand. The contribution of lipid droplet proteins to the pathogenesis of acne is plausible because they control the levels of comedogenic free fatty acids. The expression of two lipid droplet proteins, CIDEA and PLIN2, was analyzed in the skin of patients with acne by immunohistochemistry and western blotting. The design of clinical protocols allowed correlating the expression of CIDEA and PLIN2 with both comedogenesis and the release of free fatty acids. Both proteins were detected by immunohistochemistry in the sebaceous glands of patients with acne, with a disturbed expression pattern of PLIN2 compared with that in the controls. Higher levels of PLIN2 and CIDEA, as detected by western blotting in the infundibulum, significantly correlated with lower ongoing comedogenesis over 48 weeks of Silybum marianum fruit extract application. Accordingly, free fatty acid release from sebum triglycerides was significantly decreased, as shown with two distinct methods. The data are consistent with the expected role of PLIN2 and CIDEA in the prevention of comedogenic free fatty acid release. Modulation of PLIN2 and CIDEA expression appears as a sound target for the maintenance of low comedogenic sebum and acne-prone skin health.

We have previously shown that cytochrome P450 1A1 (CYP1A1) was highly induced for a long period of time in a patient who had been poisoned by 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin (TCDD), a compound known to activate the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR). During that period of time, no sebaceous glands could be observed in the skin of this patient. In this study, starting from observations in the patient exposed to TCDD, we analyzed the seboatrophy induced by dioxins in mice. We observed a very different pattern of AhR and CYP1A1 immunostaining in skin biopsies of the patient. When applying TCDD and beta-naphthoflavone, another AhR agonist, on the ears of C57BL/6J mice, we reproduced (1) an atrophy of sebaceous glands, (2) a strong induction of CYP1A1 within the glands, and (3) a dramatic repression of the genes encoding the sebogenic enzymes AWAT1, ELOVL3, and SCD1. These effects were reversible. Leucine-rich repeats and immunoglobulin- like domains protein 1 (LRIG1) expressing progenitor cells, found in the vicinity of sebaceous glands, were shown to be the initial skin cellular targets of AhR agonists. These cells retained the DNA label BrdU and colocalized with the CYP1A1 protein for at least 30 days. A downregulation of LRIG1 by siRNA in cultured sebocytes significantly decreased the CYP1A1 response to TCDD, indicating that LRIG1 contributes to a higher susceptibility of AhR agonists. In conclusion, these observations provide for the first time a strong experimental support to the concept that dioxin-induced skin pathology may be driven by a molecular switch in progenitor cells involved in the physiological turnover of sebaceous glands.

Background Dioxin (2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin; TCDD) is the most toxic congener of a family of structurally and mechanistically related persistent organic pollutants whose effects are mediated through the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR). Induction of CYP1A1/2 by TCDD through the AhR depends on the magnitude and the duration of exposure. We aimed to assess CYP1A2 activity after acute and chronic exposure to TCDD. The Maincy cohort is a sample population from Melun in the Val-de-Seine region in France that lived for at least 5 years close to a waste incinerator emitting polluted vapours (1974-2002) with high concentrations of dioxins (up to 2000 times the maximal recommended values). Acute exposure to TCDD (Viktor Yushchenko) has been described elsewhere by Sorg et al (Toxicol. Sci. 2012; 125:310-317). Both are rare cases of well-identified source of chronic and acute exposure to TCDD. Methods All subjects underwent a full medical history and physical examination and had a cutaneous examination, and a retro-auricular skin biopsy was taken. A questionnaire was designed and used regarding demographic, personal, environmental and occupational characteristics. CYP1A2 activity was assessed 2 hours after the ingestion of a drink containing caffeine through measurement of the metabolic ratio of paraxanthine (17X) over caffeine (137X) by LC-MS/MS or LC-UV. CYP1A1 expression in skin biopsies was determined by immunohistochemical analysis. Results Forty-seven exposed subjects (age 11-78) and 31 controls were included in the study. Eleven exposed subjects had a history of thyroid disease (23.4%), and 7 (14.8%) had a cancer vs none and 1, respectively, in controls. Nodular skin lesions were found in 13 exposed subjects (27.7%) vs none in controls. Mean CYP1A2 activity of the exposed population was modestly elevated as compared to controls (17X/137X metabolic ratio of 0.475 vs 0.374, P = .051). CYP1A2 was, however, induced (17X/137X, metabolic ratio >0.5) in 27.6% of the exposed cases vs 6.4% of the controls. In contrast, acute dioxin exposure was associated with a strong induction (mean 17X/137X, metabolic ratio of 1.9) still present 29 months after the acute exposure. CYP1A1 was expressed in 59.6% of the skin biopsies (highly expressed in 31.9%) of the Maincy cohort. No correlation between CYP1A2 activity, CYP1A1 expression and clinical manifestations (thyroid disease, cancer, skin lesions) could be demonstrated. Conclusion Higher frequencies of dysthyroidism and cancer were detected in the population exposed chronically to dioxins from a waste incinerator. CYP1A2 was induced in 27.6% of the exposed population, while the magnitude of induction was fourfold higher after acute exposure in the case of Yushchenko.

The term “dermatoporosis” was introduced a decade ago to highlight the need to pay attention to the problems posed by premature skin aging beyond esthetic considerations. People with this condition have a thinner skin that becomes fragile, tends to tear, and may lead to deep dissecting hematomas—as a final stage—corresponding to a medical emergency. Various studies have demonstrated a high prevalence of dermatoporosis in the elderly, with women being more exposed than men. We have developed a scoring system for dermatoporosis, providing different strategies to treat and prevent this skin condition, as well as a followup of patients treated at the University Hospital of Geneva.

This Italian case series has shown that PCBscould promote an overstimulation of AhR in the skin, favouringthe consequent acneic eruption. A combined dermatologic andmetabolic therapy can lead to a complete healing of chloracne

Background Patients treated with vemurafenib for metastatic melanoma often develop skin lesions similar to those observed after exposure to dioxin-like compounds. We previously called these lesions MADISH (metabolizing acquired dioxin-induced skin hamartoma) when analysing a case of acute dioxin poisoning. Objective We performed a clinical trial aimed at comparing the skin lesions observed under vemurafenib treatment with MADISH in order to bring to light a possible crosstalk between vemurafenib and dioxin pathways. Methods In this case series study, we explored the histological aspect of skin lesions in 10 cases treated with vemurafenib for malignant melanoma. We also analysed the ability of vemurafenib and tyrosine kinase inhibitors to induce dioxin-AhR pathway. Results All patients had skin lesions diagnosed as 'non-inflammatory acneiform eruption' by dermatologists. These were predominantly facial with notable retroauricular involvement and clinically compatible with chloracne/MADISH when assessed by dioxin expert. Histological analysis showed mostly comedone-like lesions and dermal cysts containing epithelial wall with basal or lateral epithelial projections and lamellar keratinization and alterations of remaining sebaceous glands. The expression of CYP1A1, a gene highly induced following dioxin exposure, was not observed in these lesions. Vemurafenib and the tyrosine kinase inhibitors erlotinib and gefitinib did not induce CYP1A1 activity. Discussion Although the skin lesions under vemurafenib treatment were morphologically similar to MADISH, the absence of CYP1A1 expression in dermal cysts of patients and the absence of CYP1A1 activation by vemurafenib led us consider that these skin lesions were different from true MADISH and not mediated by a crosstalk of AhR signalling, but rather to a hyperactivation of PI3K-Akt pathway as a consequence of vemurafenib treatment. A strong expression of CYP1A1 in the epithelial wall of dermal cysts must be required, parallel to the morphology of the lesions, to make the diagnosis of MADISH, the hallmark of an exposure to dioxin-like/chloracnegen compounds.

Background In non-lesional skin of acne patients, cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping can harvest a structure called microcomedone (MC) which is the earliest phase of comedogenesis; the root of any subsequent clinical lesion and a target for the prevention of acne relapses. More information is needed on the putative biochemical contributors (biomarkers) of comedogenesis expressed in MC. Methods Proteins expressed in MC were screened by proteomics, immunohistochemistry and Western blotting. The in vitro effects of a comedolytic Silybum marianum fruit extract (SMFE) were studied in sebocyte cultures by RNA-Seq and modulation of CYP1A1 by qPCR and enzymatic activity. MC severity was correlated to lesions counts and keratin expression during 48 weeks in 23 acne patients using a topical comedolytic formulation containing SMFE. Results Two infundibular keratins, K75 and K79, co-localized in MC with the sebocyte progenitor cell marker LRIG1 and were used as a biomarker of comedogenesis for the follow-up of patients. In cultured sebocytes exposed to SMFE (i) transcriptomic analysis showed an up-regulation by a factor of 15 of RNA coding for K75 and (ii) the gene expression and catalytic activity of CYP1A1 under exposure to dioxin was decreased. In the acne patients using SMFE, the MC index in non-lesional skin decreased over time and remained until the 48th week, significantly lower than that of the first week. There was a high correlation between the decrease of MC index and the decrease and stability of the clinical lesions counts over time. Importantly, a low MC index status was found to be associated with a significant higher K75 expression in microcomedones. Discussion These observations provide new orientations on the mechanism of comedogenesis and its prevention. Maintaining a low MC status in non-lesional skin is a sound target for the prevention of acne relapse and a good sentinel of acne remissions.

A previous high-resolution metabolomic study pointed out a dysregulation of urinary steroids and bile acids in human cases of acute dioxin exposure. A subset of 24 compounds was highlighted as putative biomarkers. The aim of the current study was (i) to evaluate the 24 biomarkers in an independent human cohort exposed to dioxins released from the incineration fumes of a municipal waste incinerator and; (ii) to identify them by comparison with authentic chemical standards and biosynthesised products obtained with in vitro metabolic reactions. An orthogonal projection to latent structures discriminant analysis built on biomarker profiles measured in the intoxicated cohort and the controls separated both groups with reported values of 93.8%; 100% and 87.5% for global accuracy; sensitivity and specificity; respectively. These results corroborated the 24 compounds as exposure biomarkers; but a definite identification was necessary for a better understanding of dioxin toxicity. Dehydroepiandrosterone 3β-sulfate, androsterone 3α-glucuronide, androsterone 3α-sulfate, pregnanediol 3α-glucuronide and 11-ketoetiocholanolone 3α-glucuronide were identified by authentic standards. Metabolic reactions characterised four biomarkers: glucuronide conjugates of 11β-hydroxyandrosterone; glycochenodeoxycholic acid and glycocholic acid produced in human liver microsomes and glycoursodeoxycholic acid sulfate generated in cytosol fraction. The combination of metabolomics by high-resolution mass spectrometry with in vitro metabolic syntheses confirmed a perturbed profile of steroids and bile acids in human cases of dioxin exposure.

Skin ageing has long been considered only as a cosmetic issue. However, with increasing lifespan, we experience a functional dimension of skin ageing which extends beyond cosmetics and appearance. Ten years ago, we proposed the neologism dermatoporosis to cover different characteristics of a chronic cutaneous insufficiency/fragility syndrome, to understand underlying molecular mechanisms and to develop preventative or therapeutic strategies.

Background: The aryl hydrocarbon receptor has been shown to be involved in wound healing. Objective: The aim of this study was to assess the effect of tryptophan on wound healing in vitro and in a clinical trial. Methods: The ability of tryptophan and 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin (TCDD) to increase wound healing was assessed in an in vitro scratch wound model in human keratinocytes. Topical tryptophan and vehicle were assessed for 12 weeks in 51 patients with lower limb ulcers that were resistant to conventional therapies. Results: TCDD 0.1 nM and tryptophan 1 µM increased the rate of scratch recovery in a culture model. Topical tryptophan induced stronger pain relief and faster re-epithelialization than its vehicle in patients with lower limb ulcers. Conclusion: Tryptophan shows promising potential as a novel topical treatment for wound healing.

Several million people are exposed to dioxin and dioxin-like compounds, primarily through food consumption. Skin lesions historically called "chloracne" are the most specific sign of abnormal dioxin exposure and classically used as a key marker in humans. We followed for 5 years a man who had been exposed to the most toxic dioxin, 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin (TCDD), at a single oral dose of 5 million-fold more than the accepted daily exposure in the general population. We adopted a molecular medicine approach, aimed at identifying appropriate therapy. Skin lesions, which progressively covered up to 40% of the body surface, were found to be hamartomas, which developed parallel to a complete and sustained involution of sebaceous glands, with concurrent transcriptomic alterations pointing to the inhibition of lipid metabolism and the involvement of bone morphogenetic proteins signaling. Hamartomas created a new compartment that concentrated TCDD up to 10-fold compared with serum and strongly expressed the TCDD-metabolizing enzyme cytochrome P450 1A1, thus representing a potentially significant source of enzymatic activity, which may add to the xenobiotic metabolism potential of the classical organs such as the liver. This historical case provides a unique set of data on the human tissue response to dioxin for the identification of new markers of exposure in human populations. The herein discovered adaptive cutaneous response to TCDD also points to the potential role of the skin in the metabolism of food xenobiotics.

In spite of the numerous depigmenting agents available, there is an inverse relationship between safety and efficiency. Natural retinoids exert depigmenting activities in vivo, but have a narrow therapeutic window. There is thus a need for a new class of depigmenting agents that would be both safe and useful. The aim of the study was to analyse the potential interest of new retinoid derivatives as topical depigmenting agents.

We assessed the ability of ebselen, a glutathione peroxidase mimic, to reduce pigmentation in various models. In murine B16 melanocytes, 25 μm ebselen inhibited melanogenesis and induced a depolymerisation of actin filaments. In co-cultures of B16 melanocytes with BDVII keratinocytes, a pretreatment of melanocytes with ebselen resulted in a strong inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, as shown under optical and electron microscopy. In reconstructed epidermis, topical 0.5% ebselen led to a twofold decrease of melanin without affecting the density of active melanocytes. A similar result was obtained with topical 0.5% ebselen in black guinea pig ears. Ebselen induced a decrease of epidermal melanin parallel to a localisation of melanin and melanosomes in the basal layer. Ebselen appears as a new depigmenting compound that inhibits melanin synthesis and melanosome transfer to keratinocytes.

Three major difficulties must be overcome to establish a quantitative method for melanosomal transfer analysis: (i) establishing a three-dimensional co-culture reassuring direct melanocyte to keratinocyte transfer, (ii) separation of melanocytes and keratinocytes following co-culture and (iii) melanosome quantification in each cell population. Melanocytes and keratinocytes are cultured on the opposite sides of the porous membrane of hanging cell inserts (1mum pores, 2x10(6) pores/cm(2) ). Cell separation is performed after 3days of co-culture by simple trypsinisation. Melanosome quantification in separated cell populations was accomplished by an ELISA-like method using gp-100 as the antigen. Melanocytes and keratinocytes come into 'direct' contact through the pores, and melanosomal transfer is accomplished without cell passage through the membrane. Cell separation by simple trypsinisation results in pure melanocyte and keratinocyte populations. Melanosome quantification by the ELISA-like method proved to be sensitive and specific to distinguish the known inhibitors and inducers of melanosomal transfer.

Ligands of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR), a transcription factor mediating the effects of dioxin, favor Th17 differentiation and exacerbate autoimmunity in mice. We investigated how AHR ligands affected human T-cell polarization. We found that the high affinity and stable AHR-ligand dioxin as well as the natural AHR-ligand 6-formylinolo[3,2-b] carbazole induced the downstream AHR-target cytochrome P450A1, and without affecting IFN-gamma, they enhanced IL-22 while simultaneously decreasing IL-17A production by CD4(+) T cells. The specific AHR-inhibitor CH-223191 abolished these effects. Furthermore, blockade of IL-23 and IL-1, important for Th17 expansion, profoundly decreased IL-17A but not IL-22 production. AHR agonists reduced the expression of the Th17 master transcription factor retinoic acid-related orphan receptor C (RORC), without affecting T-bet, GATA-3 and Foxp3. They also decreased the expression of the IL-23 receptor. Importantly, AHR-ligation did not only decrease the number of Th17 cells but also primed naïve CD4(+) T cells to produce IL-22 without IL-17 and IFN-gamma. Furthermore, IL-22 single producers did not express CD161, which distinguished them from the CD161(+) Th17 cells. Hence, our data provide compelling evidence that AHR activation participates in shaping human CD4(+) T-cell polarization favoring the emergence of a distinct subset of IL-22-producing cells that are independent from the Th17 lineage.

A new entity was described by Crickx et al. in 1991, associating amicrobial pustulosis of the folds with systemic lupus erythematosus in young females. It is proposed to regroup this entity under the name of 'neutrophilic cutaneous lupus'. We report a case of a 13-year-old girl with a pustular eruption of the cutaneous folds and scalp associated with undetermined connective tissue disease. We performed a screening for the expression of 174 cytokines in the pustules and compared it with other pustular diseases (acne flare, acute generalized exanthematous pustulosis, pustulosis of Sneddon and Wilkinson). Matrix metalloproteinase 9 and Siglec-5 (CD170) were highly expressed in all types of pustules and reflect high neutrophil density. Amicrobial pustulosis of the folds was characterized by a higher expression of interleukin (IL) 1alpha, IL-2 receptor alpha, macrophage colony-stimulating factor, insulin-like growth factor binding protein 1, brain-derived neurotrophic factor, tumour necrosis factor (TNF) alpha and a lower expression of CD14, IL-1beta, IL-12, soluble TNF receptors I and II, growth-regulated oncogene alpha, fibroblast growth factor 4 and vascular endothelial growth factor as compared to the controls.

Methimazole is an oral antithyroid compound that exhibits a skin-depigmenting effect when used topically. However, the effect of topical methimazole on thyroid function has not been reported. This study was aimed at assessing the safety of topical methimazole used to treat pigmented lesions, without affecting thyroid hormones due to systemic delivery. The pharmacokinetics of methimazole, either applied in the form of a 5% topical formulation to facial skin or taken orally in the form of a 5-mg tablet by 6 volunteers, were determined. In addition, the effect of long-term topical applications of 5% methimazole on the function of the thyroid gland in 20 patients with epidermal melasma was determined following 6 weeks of once-daily application. Cutaneous adverse effects of topical methimazole were determined. From 15 min up to 24 h after application, methimazole was undetectable in the serum of the individuals receiving single topical methimazole dosing. Methimazole, however, was detected in serum after 15 min of oral administration and remained detectable in serum up to 24 h after administration. Long-term topical methimazole applications in melasma patients did not induce any significant changes in serum TSH, free thyroxine and free triiodothyronine levels. Topical methimazole was well tolerated by the patients and did not induce any significant cutaneous side effects. Present data together with the previously shown non-cytotoxic and non-mutagenic characteristics of methimazole indicate that this agent could be considered as a safe skin-depigmenting compound for topical treatment of skin hyperpigmentary disorders in humans.

We showed in a recent study that topical retinyl palmitate prevented UV-B-induced DNA damage and erythema in humans. Given that retinyl palmitate is a precursor of retinoic acid, the biological form of vitamin A that acts through nuclear receptors, we wondered whether these protective effects toward UV-B exposure were either receptor dependent or linked to other properties of the retinoid molecule such as its spectral properties. We determined the epidermal retinoid profile induced by topical retinoic acid in hairless mice and analyzed its effect on markers of DNA photodamage (thymine dimers) and apoptosis following acute UV-B exposure; we compared these effects to those induced by other natural topical retinoids (retinaldehyde, retinol and retinyl palmitate) which do not directly activate the retinoid receptors. We then analyzed the direct action of these retinoids on UV-B-induced DNA damage and apoptosis in cultured A431 keratinocytes. Topical retinoic acid significantly decreased (approximately 50%) the number of apoptotic cells, as well as the formation of thymine dimers in the epidermis of mice exposed to acute UV-B. Interestingly, the other topical retinoids decreased apoptosis and DNA damage in a similar way. On the other hand, neither retinoic acid nor the other retinoids interfered with the apoptotic process in A431 keratinocytes exposed to UV-B, whereas DNA photodamage was slightly decreased. We conclude that the decrease of apoptotic cells in hairless mouse epidermis following topical retinoids and UV-B irradiation reflects a protection of the primary targets of UV-B (DNA) by a mechanism independent of the activation of retinoid nuclear receptors, rather than a direct inhibition of apoptosis.

Background: Dioxins are persistent organic pollutants present in the environment. They exert their biological effects by binding to an intracellular receptor, the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR). Activation of AhR leads to the induction of cytochrome p450 1A1 (CYP1A1). Expression of CYP1A1 in human skin is a key marker for AhR activation, and it may induce comedogenesis resulting in acne-like lesions known as chloracne/metabolising acquired dioxin-induced skin hamartomas (MADISH). The contribution of this pathway in patients seen in a busy acne clinic is unknown. Materials and Methods: We explored the expression of CYP1A1 by immunohistochemistry in the acne lesions of 16 patients living in the region of Naples, Italy, where epidemiological studies have suggested a possibly increased exposure to environmental dioxins. A composite score to outline potential components of the chloracne/MADISH histological pattern was used. Results: CYP1A1 expression was observed in 11 lesions (69%) and was distributed in sebaceous glands, follicular epithelium, cystic wall and endothelial cells. The histological score for chloracne/MADISH was ‘likely' in 3 cases and ‘possible' in 11 cases. Compared to current data on CYP1A1 expression in the skin of 67 patients with proven exposure to AhR agonists, these data indicate a high incidence of AhR activation in this series. Conclusion: This is the first study analysing AhR activation in skin in a series of patients from a hospital-based acne clinic. It provides information for future controlled prospective studies. The significance of CYP1A1 expression in terms of AhR ligand exposure is discussed.

Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and easily penetrate the epidermis. Their biologically active forms can modulate the expression of genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation. Retinoic acid (tretinoin), its 13-cis isomer isotretinoin, as well as various synthetic retinoids are used for therapeutic purposes, whereas retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinyl esters, because of their controlled conversion to retinoic acid or their direct receptor-independent biologic action, can be used as cosmeceuticals. These natural retinoic acid precursors are thus expected to be helpful in (i) renewing epidermal cells, (ii) acting as UV filters, (iii) preventing oxidative stress, (iv) controlling cutaneous bacterial flora, and (v) improving skin aging and photoaging. Retinol and retinyl esters are not irritant, whereas demonstrating only a modest clinical efficiency. On the other hand, retinaldehyde, which is fairly well tolerated, seems to be the most efficient cosmeceutical retinoid; it has significant efficiency toward oxidative stress, cutaneous bacterial flora, epidermis renewing, and photoaging.

Monobenzylether of hydroquinone (MBEH) has long been utilized for the depigmentation therapy of patients with extensive vitiligo. In this approach, the normally pigmented areas surrounding vitiligo lesions are depigmented to achieve a uniform skin tone. One of the important disadvantages of MBEH therapy, however, is the resistance of a considerable number of vitiligo patients against the depigmenting effect of this agent. We have previously proposed that the glutathione-dependent cytoprotection of melanocytes can be impaired through the inhibition of the enzyme glutathione S-transferase by retinoic acid (RA). The combination of RA with melanocytotoxic agents could thus lead to increased susceptibility of melanocytes to such compounds. In this study we have shown, for the first time, that the melanocytotoxic and depigmenting effects of MBEH are synergistically enhanced when it is combined with RA. The treatment of black guinea pig skin with RA (0.025%) alone induced no significant changes in the number of epidermal melanocytes and no skin depigmentation. On the other hand, MBEH (10%) produced mild to moderate skin depigmentation and reduced the average number of melanocytes from 76 (+/-5)/field (magnification: x 40) in control sites, to 42 (+/-6)/field in the depigmented skin. The RA (0.025%)-MBEH (10%) combination, however, produced a complete degree of depigmentation in the majority of treated sites after 10 days of application and reduced the average number of melanocytes to only 6 (+/-6)/field. RA-MBEH combination serves as a very potent skin depigmenting formula and now awaits future assessments of its potential use for the treatment of extensive vitiligo.

Skin aging (intrinsic aging) and photoaging (extrinsic aging) involve a similar process that leads to the typical creased appearance of the skin, with the progressive loss of its physical and biologic properties. Photoaging is a premature skin aging caused by long-term exposure to the ultraviolet B radiations of the sun, and is more frequently associated to skin cancer than intrinsic aging. Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and penetrate the epidermis easily. Their biologically active forms can modulate gene expression by binding to nuclear receptors and then to specific DNA sequences. Because of their ability to modulate genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation, they appear as good candidates to treat and prevent photoaging. Hyaluronate and collagen, two major constituents of the dermis, are progressively decreased and altered during aging. Various retinoids were shown to increase their synthesis and concentration in the skin and reduce their rate of degradation. Furthermore, retinoids share a common chemical structure containing several conjugated double bonds that enable them to trap free radicals and absorb UV radiations from the sun, thereby protecting cellular targets such as DNA, lipid membranes, or proteins by preventing direct photochemical damage or UV-induced oxidative stress. Therefore, retinoids may be beneficial in treating skin aging and photoaging because of their biologic, chemical, and physical properties, which act at several levels.

Background: Retinoids and α-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are major compounds in topical therapy. They exert distinct but potentially complementary activities. However, their association is limited by their respective irritating potential. Recently, the first association between a retinoid and an AHA has been achieved; this formulation (RALGA) associates retinaldehyde (RAL) – a precursor of retinoic acid (RA) – and glycolic acid (GA) – an AHA. Objective: To study the pharmacological properties of RALGA. Methods: The bioavailability of RAL into the skin after topical RALGA was studied by HPLC, and its bioconversion to RA was analysed by measuring the enzyme activity of retinaldehyde dehydrogenase and the RA content in the epidermis and dermis. The retinoid activity of RALGA was studied on the modulation of Hhb4 keratin mRNA on the tail of C57BL/6 mice, and its comedolytic properties on the size and density of dermal cysts and the morphology of sebaceous glands in hairless mice. Results: Epidermal and dermal concentrations of RAL and RA were higher after RALGA treatment, as compared to both RAL 0.1% alone and RA 0.05% alone; this indicates that the presence of GA favours the bioavailability and biotransformation of RAL into RA. The retinoid activity of RALGA (suppression of Hhb4 mRNA keratin) was similar to that of RAL alone, indicating that the presence of GA does not interfere with specific retinoid activity; GA alone had no effect in this test, which confirms the specificity of Hhb4 mRNA keratin modulation for retinoid activity. The diameter and the density of dermal cysts as well as the size of sebaceous glands were significantly decreased by RALGA. Conclusion: These observations indicate that the addition of an AHA such as GA to a retinoid such as RAL results in a better bioavailability of the retinoid, thus a higher delivery of RA, which potentiates the biological activities of the retinoid. This combination allows a delivery of high amounts of RA in the skin while preventing the side-effects usually observed with high concentrations of topical RA.

Retinyl esters, a storage form of vitamin A, concentrate in the epidermis, and absorb ultraviolet radiation with a maximum at 325 nm. We wondered whether these absorbing properties of retinyl esters might have a biologically relevant filter activity. We first used an in vitro model to assess the photoprotective properties of retinyl palmitate. We then applied topical retinyl palmitate on the back of hairless mice before exposing them to 1 J per cm2 ultraviolet B, and assayed the levels of thymine dimers produced in epidermal DNA 2 h following ultraviolet B exposure. Finally, we applied topical retinyl palmitate or a sunscreen on the buttocks of human volunteers before exposing them to four minimal erythema doses of ultraviolet B; we assayed the levels of thymine dimers produced 2 h following ultraviolet B exposure, and determined the intensity of erythema 24 h after ultraviolet B. In vitro, retinyl palmitate was shown to be as efficient as the commercial filter octylmethoxycinnamate in preventing ultraviolet-induced fluorescence or photobleaching of fluorescent markers. The formation of thymine dimers in mouse epidermis was significantly inhibited by topical retinyl palmitate. In human subjects, topical retinyl palmitate was as efficient as a sun protection factor 20 sunscreen in preventing sunburn erythema as well as the formation of thymine dimers. These results demonstrate that epidermal retinyl esters have a biologically relevant filter activity and suggest, besides their pleomorphic biologic actions, a new role for vitamin A that concentrates in the epidermis.

Background: Aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) has been shown to be involved in wound healing. Objective: The aim of the study was to assess the effect of tryptophan on wound healing in vitro and in a clinical trial. Methods: The ability of tryptophan and 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin (TCDD) to increase wound healing was assessed in an in vitro scratch wound model in human keratinocytes. Topical tryptophan and vehicle were assessed for 12 weeks in 51 patients with lower limb ulcers that were resistant to conventional therapies. Results: TCDD 0.1 nM and tryptophan 10 µM increased the rate of scratch recovery in a culture model. Topical tryptophan induced a stronger pain relief and a faster reepithelialization than its vehicle in patients with lower limb ulcers. Conclusion: Tryptophan shows promising potential as a novel topical treatment for wound healing.

In hairless mice, epidermal vitamin A (retinol and retinyl esters) is strongly decreased following a single exposure to UVB. Here, using the same mouse model, we studied the effects of UVA on epidermal vitamin A content, lipid peroxidation, and CRBP-I expression, as well as the putative prevention of vitamin A depletion or lipid peroxidation by topical alpha-tocopherol. An acute exposure to UVA completely depleted epidermal vitamin A with EC50 of 0.25 and 0.5 J per cm2 for retinyl esters and retinol, respectively; these values were 0.1 J per cm2 for both retinoids under UVB exposure. CRBP-I expression was increased 2-fold 8 h following UVA exposure (10 J per cm2), and this increase persisted for at least 16 h. A single UVA exposure induced a concentration-dependent epidermal lipid peroxidation (EC50 = 3.5 J per cm2) giving rise to 55.4 +/- 4.2 nmol lipid peroxides per g at 20 J per cm2, whereas UVB, up to 1 J per cm2, did not increase the basal concentration of 6.7 +/- 0.9 nmol lipid peroxides per g. On the other hand, topical menadione induced a concentration-dependent lipid peroxidation, but did not affect vitamin A content. Pretreatment with alpha-tocopherol (i) did not inhibit UV-induced vitamin A depletion, (ii) completely inhibited the increased lipid peroxidation induced by UVA or menadione, and (iii) accelerated reconstitution of epidermal vitamin A after UVB but not UVA induced depletion. Thus acute UVA induced both epidermal vitamin A depletion and lipid peroxidation, UVB induced only vitamin A depletion, and menadione induced only a lipid peroxidation; topical alpha-tocopherol prevented lipid peroxidation but not vitamin A depletion. These observations indicate (i) that CRBP-I neither provides protection to UVB- and UVA-induced epidermal vitamin A depletion, nor interferes significantly with reconstitution, and (ii) that the UV-induced vitamin A depletion and lipid peroxidation in mouse epidermis are unrelated processes. UV light does not destroy epidermal vitamin A through an oxidative stress but probably by a photochemical reaction in which UV radiations at about 325 nm give the corresponding activation energy.

We have developed a new model using liposome-encapsulated fluorescent probes, aiming at assessing both the physical and the biological protection provided by filter molecules such as those incorporated in sunscreens. The fluorescent indicator Indo-1 or 2',7'-dichlorofluorescin (DCFH) was inside the liposomes, in the aqueous inner compartment, whereas the filter molecules octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), benzophenone-3 (BP3) or avobenzone, widely used in sunscreens, were incorporated into liposome membranes. When liposome suspensions were placed in a fluorometer cuvette exposed to an incident UV beam, the decrease of Indo-1 fluorescence as a function of filter concentration was related to the extinction coefficient of the filters. On the other hand, when liposome suspensions were exposed to moderate UVB doses allowing Indo-1 photobleaching, the remaining intact Indo-1 was linked to the protection provided by filter-containing liposome membranes. Finally, when liposome-encapsulated DCFH was exposed to UVB, the degree of photo-oxidation of the fluorescent probe into 2',7'-dichlorofluorescein accounted for the photoprotection provided by the filter contained in liposome membranes. BP3 was more potent and slightly less efficient than the other two filters in preventing Indo-1 fluorescence; all three filters provided a similar concentration-dependent protection of Indo-1 photobleaching, whereas only OMC was able to prevent the photooxidation of DCFH. The liposome model presented here has the advantage of combining both physical and biological parameters to assess the photoprotection provided by filter molecules, and the lack of photoprotection by two sunscreen molecules having a good filter capacity highlights the need for such a biological parameter when talking about the safety of sunscreens.