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Assessing the percutaneous absorption of cosmetic ingredients using in-vitro human skin reveals certain limitations, such as restricted anatomical sites and repeated exposure, and to overcome these issues, in-vivo studies are required. The aim of the study is to develop a robust non-invasive in-vivo protocol that should be applicable to a wide range of application.A robust tape stripping protocol was therefore designed according to recent recommendations, and the impact of two different washing procedures on caffeine distribution in tape strips was investigated to optimise the protocol. The optimised protocol was then used to study the effect of age and anatomical area on the percutaneous absorption of caffeine, including facial areas which are not readily available for in-vitro studies.With tape stripping, a difference between the percutaneous absorption on the face (forehead, cheek) and the volar forearm was observed. No obvious difference was observed between percutaneous absorption in young and post-menopausal women, but this could be due to the limited number of subjects.This tape stripping protocol is now to be deployed to address many other factors, such as percutaneous absorption in other anatomical areas (e.g. abdomen, axilla, etc.), impact of repeated applications and effect of formulation.

Objective Endogenous hormones regulate numerous physiological processes in humans. Some of them are routinely measured in blood, saliva and/or urine for the diagnosis of disorders. The analysis of fluids may, however, require multiple samples collected at different time points to avoid the high variability in the concentration of some hormones. In contrast, hair analysis has been proposed as an interesting alternative to reveal average hormone levels over a longer period. In this work, we developed and validated an analytical method for analyzing 36 endogenous steroid and thyroid hormones and one pineal hormone in human hair using ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC)-tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS). Methods Sample preparation involved hair decontamination, pulverization, methanol extraction, and purification with C18-solid phase extraction. Extracts were then divided into two portions, respectively injected into an UPLC-MS/MS system, and analyzed using two different instrumental methods. The method was applied to a healthy female population aged 25–45 years. Results The method was validated on supplemented hair samples for the 37 targeted hormones, and its application to the population under study allowed to detect 32 compounds in 2–100% of the samples. Complete reference intervals (2.5–97.5th percentiles) were established for estrone, 17β-estradiol, androstenedione, dehydroepiandrosterone, progesterone, 17α-hydroxyprogesterone, cortisone, cortisol and 3,3’,5-triiodo-L-thyronine. Hair cortisone, cortisol, tetrahydrocortisone and tetrahydrocortisol concentrations were highly correlated with each other, with Kendall’s τ correlation coefficients ranging from 0.52 to 0.68. Conclusion Allowing the detection of 32 hormones from different chemical classes, the present method will allow to broaden hormonal profiling for better identifying endocrine disorders.

Dandruff is a common and challenging complaint associated with type of scalp, skin and population. Scalp seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a more severe manifestation of dandruff associated with very severe itching and inflammation. Histamine is an interesting biomarker released in scalp affected by dandruff and SD even though the mechanism is not well understood yet. A monocentre clinical study was conducted to confirm the relationship between dandruff/SD and scalp histamine level in an Indian population. Highly sensitive liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry was used for histamine quantification in scalp from samples obtained non-invasively. Results showed that scalps with dandruff and mild to moderate SD had higher histamine levels compared with healthy scalps.

Environmental pollution is composed of several factors, namely particulate matter (PM2.5, PM10), ozone and Ultra Violet (UV) rays among others and first and the most exposed tissue to these substances is the skin epidermis. It has been established that several skin disorders such as eczema, acne, lentigines and wrinkles are aggravated by exposure to atmospheric pollution. While pollutants can interact with skin surface, contamination of deep skin by ultrafine particles or Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) might be explained by their presence in blood and hair cortex. Molecular mechanisms leading to skin dysfunction due to pollution exposure have been poorly explored in humans. In addition to various host skin components, cutaneous microbiome is another target of these environment aggressors and can actively contribute to visible clinical manifestation such as wrinkles and aging. The present study aimed to investigate the association between pollution exposure, skin microbiota, metabolites and skin clinical signs in women from two cities with different pollution levels. Untargeted metabolomics and targeted proteins were analyzed from D-Squame samples from healthy women (n = 67 per city), aged 25–45 years and living for at least 15 years in the Chinese cities of Baoding (used as a model of polluted area) and Dalian (control area with lower level of pollution). Additional samples by swabs were collected from the cheeks from the same population and microbiome was analysed using bacterial 16S rRNA as well as fungal ITS1 amplicon sequencing and metagenomics analysis. The level of exposure to pollution was assessed individually by the analysis of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) and their metabolites in hair samples collected from each participant. All the participants of the study were assessed for the skin clinical parameters (acne, wrinkles, pigmented spots etc.). Women from the two cities (polluted and less polluted) showed distinct metabolic profiles and alterations in skin microbiome. Profiling data from 350 identified metabolites, 143 microbes and 39 PAH served to characterize biochemical events that correlate with pollution exposure. Finally, using multiblock data analysis methods, we obtained a potential molecular map consisting of multi-omics signatures that correlated with the presence of skin pigmentation dysfunction in individuals living in a polluted environment. Overall, these signatures point towards macromolecular alterations by pollution that could manifest as clinical sign of early skin pigmentation and/or other imperfections.

Significance Air pollution via phototoxic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) is a major risk factor for human health. While in vitro observations and in vivo correlations suggest a detrimental effect of PAHs at physiological concentrations, in vivo observations of the structural impact of PAHs are scarce. Here, we use transmission electron microscopy on human hair fibers containing known concentrations of 25 biomarkers of PAH exposure. We show an increased structural degradation of the hair fiber over time, when increased PAH concentrations are present. Moreover, we show that exposure to UV radiation explains part of the increased damage in more contaminated fibers. Our results point toward possible detrimental effects in other human tissues at physiological concentrations of PAHs., Exposure to pollution is a known risk factor for human health. While correlative studies between exposure to pollutants such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and human health exist, and while in vitro studies help to establish a causative connection, in vivo comparisons of exposed and nonexposed human tissue are scarce. Here, we use human hair as a model matrix to study the correlation of PAH pollution with microstructural changes over time. Two hundred four hair samples from 2 Chinese cities with distinct pollution exposure were collected, and chromatographic-mass spectrometry was used to quantify the PAH-exposure profiles of each individual sample. This allowed us to define a group of less contaminated hair samples as well as a more contaminated group. Using transmission electron microscopy (TEM) together with quantitative image analysis and blind scoring of 82 structural parameters, we find that the speed of naturally occurring hair-cortex degradation and cuticle delamination is increased in fibers with increased PAH concentrations. Treating nondamaged hair fibers with ultraviolet (UV) irradiation leads to a more pronounced cortical damage especially around melanosomes of samples with higher PAH concentrations. Our study shows the detrimental effect of physiological concentrations of PAH together with UV irradiation on the hair microstructure but likely can be applied to other human tissues.

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) are produced from incomplete combustion of organic matter and released as environmental contaminants from activities such as transports, wood combustion, coal-fired power plants. In numerous urban areas worldwide, the levels of PAH exposure are considered critical regarding public health issues. The possibility to detect PAH and PAH metabolites biologically incorporated in human hair was demonstrated and proposed as biomarkers of exposure. Nevertheless, the possibility to distinguish different levels of exposure between different populations is still needed to validate the relevance of hair analysis in epidemiological studies. In this work, hair samples were collected from 204 women from two cities in China based on one year Air Quality Index history from governmental data (Baoding as polluted city and Dalian less polluted city). 8 out of the 15 parent PAH and 7 out of the 56 metabolites analyzed in this study were detected in all the samples. The highest concentrations in hair were observed for phenanthrene (4.2 to 889 pg/mg) > fluoranthene (1.05 to 204 pg/mg) > pyrene (3.2 to 124 pg/mg) for parent PAH, and for 9-OH-fluorene (0.04 to 1.78 pg/mg) > 2-OH-naphthalene (0.68 to 811 pg/mg) > 1-OH-anthracene (0.24 to 10.9 pg/mg) for metabolites. 14 parent PAH and 15 metabolites presented a significantly higher concentration in the hair samples collected from Baoding, as compared to Dalian. The median concentration of parent PAH was from 1.5 to 2.8 times higher in the hair of the subjects from Baoding than in subjects from Dalian and that of PAH metabolites was from 1 to 2.3 times higher. The study of inter-chemical associations revealed similarities and differences between the two areas, suggesting common and different sources of exposure depending on PAH respectively. The results confirmed the relevance of hair analysis to identify qualitative and quantitative differences in PAH exposure between populations from different areas. This study is the first one to investigate both parent PAH and their metabolites in a biological matrix. Keywords: Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, Hair analysis, Cumulative exposure, Environmental exposure, Biomarkers

Background Urban pollution is correlated with an increased prevalence of skin pigmentation disorders, however the physiological processes underlying this association are unclear. Objectives To delineate the relationship between polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), a key constituent of atmospheric pollution, and immunity/skin pigmentation pathways. Methods We exposed peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMC) to PAHs and performed cytokines/chemokine profiling. We then examined the effect of immune activation on pigmentation by co-culturing PBMC and Benzo(a)pyrene (BaP) with reconstructed human pigmented epidermis (RHPE). To study the mechanism, we treated keratinocytes with conditioned medium from BaP-exposed PBMC and studied DNA damage responses, aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) activation and pro-pigmentation factor, proopiomelanocortin (POMC) secretion. Results PAHs induced up-regulation of inflammatory cytokines/chemokine in PBMC. Co-culturing of RHPE with PBMC+BaP resulted in increased melanin content and localization. BaP conditioned medium significantly increased DNA damage, p53 stabilization, AhR activation and POMC secretion in keratinocytes. We found that IFNγ induced DNA damage while TNFα and IL-8 potentiated POMC secretion in keratinocytes. Importantly, BaP conditioned medium-induced DNA damage and POMC secretion is prevented by antioxidants vitamin E, vitamin C and sulforaphane, as well as the prototypical corticosteroid dexamethasone. Finally, vitamin C and sulforaphane enhanced the genome protective and depigmentation effects of dexamethasone, providing proof-of-concept for a combinatorial approach for the prevention and/or correction of PAH-induced pigment spots formation. Conclusion Our study reveals the importance of systemic immunity in regulating PAH-induced skin pigmentation, and provide a new keratinocytes DNA damage response mechanistic target for the prevention or reversal of pollution-associated skin pigmentation.

International audience; Humans are exposed to various anthropogenic chemicals in daily life, including endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs). However, there are limited data on chronic, low-level exposure to such contaminants among the general population. Here hair analysis was used to investigate the occurrence of four polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), seven polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs) and two bisphenols (BPs) in 204 Chinese women living in the urban areas of Baoding and Dalian and 311 pregnant French women. All the PCBs and PBDEs tested here were more frequently detected in the hair samples of the French women than in those of the Chinese women. In both cohorts, PCB 180 and BDE 47 were the dominant PCB and PBDE congener, respectively. PCB 180 was found in 82% of the French women and 44% of the Chinese women, while the corresponding values of BDE 47 were 54% and 11%, respectively. A discriminant analysis further demonstrated the difference in PCBs and PBDEs exposure profile between the two cohorts. These results demonstrate that hair analysis is sufficiently sensitive to detect exposure to these pollutants and highlight differences in exposure between populations even at environmental levels. Although BPA and BPS were found in 100% of the hair samples in both cohorts, the French women had significantly higher levels of BPA and BPS than the Chinese women. The median concentrations of BPA were one order of magnitude higher than BPS in both the Chinese (34.9 versus 2.84 pg/mg) and the French women (118 versus 8.01 pg/mg) respectively. Our results suggest that both French and Chinese populations were extensively exposed to BPA and BPS.

The high use of pesticides worldwide and the constant exposure of humans to these toxic-by-design chemicals have drawn the attention on the possible consequences on human health. However, information on the exposure of the general population to pesticides remain very limited in most countries, especially in urban areas. In the present work, hair analysis was conducted to investigate the exposure of 204 urban women living in two Chinese cities (Baoding and Dalian) to 110 pesticides and 30 metabolites of the following families: organochlorines, organophosphates, carbamates, pyrethroids, neonicotinoids, phenylpyrazoles, acid herbicides, urea herbicides and azoles. Results showed that 71 pesticides and 23 metabolites were found in the hair samples, with concentrations ranging up to 1070 pg/mg in hair. In each hair sample, the number of detected chemicals ranged from 25 to 50, demonstrating the cumulative exposure to pesticides among Chinese women in the studied regions. The concentrations of 38 chemicals (e.g., p-nitrophenol, diethyldithiophosphate, λ-cyhalothrin, permethrin, carbendazim and tebuconazole) were significantly different between women in Baoding and Dalian, indicating the regional differences in exposure to pesticide. Using a multiple regression analysis, we found that concentrations of a few dominant pesticides were associated with age, body mass index (BMI), cooking frequency and regions. These results can provide baseline information on exposure of female adult Chinese population to multiple pesticides and support future studies focused on the health effects associated with pesticide exposure. Keywords: Multiclass pesticides, Metabolites, Human biomonitoring, Hair analysis, Urban residents, Environmental pollution