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Objective Methods Results Conclusion Moisturizers are integral to daily skincare routines, reflecting the increasing trend among people towards cosmetic products, particularly for skin care. They significantly contribute to preserving skin health, particularly by regulating the epidermal barrier and moisture levels within the skin. This study aims to explore the moisturizing and antioxidant effect of skin barrier restoring cream Moiz MM (MZ) with shea butter, silkflo and vitamin E by investigating its protective effect against oxidative stress‐induced cellular damage and therapeutic mechanisms in human keratinocytes cells (HaCaT).The in vitro antioxidant activity of MZ was evaluated by DPPH, ABTS and NO assays. For the cell culture study, HaCaT cells were cultured and stimulated using H2O2 and then treated with different concentrations of MZ. Then, it was subjected to DCFH‐DA staining, reverse transcriptase PCR and western blot analysis for the evaluation of various skin‐moisture‐related components in human keratinocyte cells. Type I procollagen was examined using ELISA technique.The results highlighted that oxidative stress in HaCaT cells decreased type I procollagen synthesis, while MZ treatment significantly increased the synthesis. Moreover, the viability of HaCaT cells was not affected in the presence of MZ, which demonstrates its non‐toxic effect. Furthermore, MZ can counteract H2O2‐mediated oxidative stress by enhancing the antioxidant enzyme activity such as superoxide dismutase and catalase, and decrease reactive oxygen species generation in skin cells. Additionally, MZ greatly promotes hyaluronic acid production by enhancing the expression of the hyaluronic acid synthase‐1 gene and Aquaporin 3 protein.This study suggests that MZ has the potential to serve as a moisturizing and antioxidant skincare formula. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) poses significant treatment challenges due to its chronic nature and the side effects associated with long‐term use of conventional therapies like topical corticosteroids. In the search for alternative treatments, exosomes, particularly those derived from rose stem cells (RSCEs), offer a promising avenue due to their potential in managing chronic skin conditions. Objective: This case report examines the efficacy of a topical moisturizer containing RSCEs in treating a patient with refractory SD, aiming to provide an alternative treatment pathway. Materials and Methods: A 40‐year‐old male with a long‐standing history of SD, unresponsive to traditional treatments, underwent a novel treatment regimen. This regimen included an initial topical application of 2.5 mL of RSCEs followed by a maintenance phase involving the application of a RSCE‐containing moisturizer. Clinical outcomes were assessed through the Patient's Global Assessment (PGA) and Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA) scores, along with evaluations of scaling and erythema. Results: Remarkable clinical improvement was noted as early as 1‐day post‐treatment, with significant reductions in redness, scaling, and itching. The patient experienced sustained relief throughout the 6‐month follow‐up, with a recurrence in the sixth month that was less severe than previous flare‐ups. This demonstrated not only the efficacy of RSCEs in symptom management but also their potential in extending remission periods. Conclusion: The chronic management of SD can benefit from innovative treatments like the RSCE‐containing moisturizer, as shown in this case report. While the observed outcomes are promising, indicating substantial improvements in skin condition and symptom management, larger controlled studies are necessary to validate the therapeutic potential of exosome‐containing moisturizers fully. This case underscores the need for alternative therapies in SD treatment, highlighting the role of exosomes as a viable option. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, cosmetics from the thousands of tombs of wealthy non-elites living in the capital of the Tang dynasty (618–907) in China, were comprehensively analyzed. One moisturizer was identified as ruminant fat with a small amount of Brassicaceae seed oil, which is easier to spread than ruminant fat in the cold, dry winters of northern China. This indicates that the recipe of the moisturizer had been optimized. Two organic residues in shells were identified as color cosmetics, one made from a mixture of vegetable oil, moths, and plant extracts, and another was from a mixture of rosin and plant pigments. Meanwhile a piece of graphite ore was used as an eyebrow cosmetic, and a mixture of cinnabar and animal glue was used as a lipstick or blusher. However, no white cosmetic powders were found in the thousands of Tang tombs. These findings suggest that the cosmetics were diverse and made from a wide range of raw materials, including plants, animals, and minerals, during the Tang dynasty in China. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) have impaired barrier function, which decreases skin hydration, weakens their defense against microorganisms, and culminates in increased inflammatory responses. Here, we conducted a clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a multi-lamellar emulsion (MLE) containing the pseudoceramide PC-9S and a synthetic sphingosine kinase 1 (SPHK1) activator, Defensamide™, in improving mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis. Methods: Forty patients aged ≥ 2 years were randomized into a combined-therapy group treated with the MLE containing PC-9S and Defensamide™ plus a topical corticosteroid and a topical-corticosteroid-only group. Assessments based on therapeutic methods included the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI), the Investigator Global Assessment (IGA), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration (SCH), skin dryness, a visual analogue scale (VAS) of itchiness, a VAS of sleep disturbance, patient satisfaction, and the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI). Results: Thirty-eight patients completed this study. In the combined-therapy group, significant improvements in clinical and instrumental measures such as EASI scores, skin hydration, and skin dryness were noted at 4 weeks compared to baseline, but such improvements were not noted in the topical corticosteroid-only group. Subjective assessments of itching and sleep disturbance and DLQI scores also showed significant improvements in the combined-therapy group. Conclusion: Combined therapy with the MLE containing Defensamide™ and PC-9S and with topical corticosteroid demonstrated superior clinical outcomes compared with topical corticosteroid monotherapy. Our findings underscore the potential of MLE-containing formulations as effective adjunctive therapies for AD, offering both objective and subjective symptomatic relief and enhancing patients' quality of life. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract The use of skin barrier-enhancing topical medication is a favorable approach for the treatment of occupational hand dermatitis (OHD). Cocos nucifera or coconut oil is one of the best sources of lipid enriched with laurate acid, and glycerin is a well-known humectant that improves skin hydration. This study is aimed is to evaluate the effectiveness of C. nucifera and glycerin for secondary prevention of OHD among batik (Indonesian traditional fabric) workers. In a randomized, double-blind, crossover trial, the effect of glycerine–C. nucifera cream versus glycerin-only was considered with multiple afterwork applications of moisturizer over a 2-week period on batik workers with OHD. Assessment of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, and a clinical assessment using the Hand Eczema Severity Index (HECSI) were carried out at day 0 and 14. The results show thirty-two batik dyeing and/or rinsing workers were enrolled in the study with mild to moderate OHD. Clinical improvement was demonstrated by 20% decrease in HECSI and TEWL, and 20% increase in skin capacitance. Both moisturizers were equally effective for the secondary prevention of OHD. As a conclusion, glycerine–C. nucifera and glycerin-only cream are equally effective for secondary prevention for OHD among batik worker to reduce the prevalence of hand dermatitis.

Abstract Introduction Patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) have impaired barrier function, which decreases skin hydration, weakens their defense against microorganisms, and culminates in increased inflammatory responses. Here, we conducted a clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a multi-lamellar emulsion (MLE) containing the pseudoceramide PC-9S and a synthetic sphingosine kinase 1 (SPHK1) activator, Defensamide™, in improving mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis. Methods Forty patients aged ≥ 2 years were randomized into a combined-therapy group treated with the MLE containing PC-9S and Defensamide™ plus a topical corticosteroid and a topical-corticosteroid-only group. Assessments based on therapeutic methods included the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI), the Investigator Global Assessment (IGA), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration (SCH), skin dryness, a visual analogue scale (VAS) of itchiness, a VAS of sleep disturbance, patient satisfaction, and the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI). Results Thirty-eight patients completed this study. In the combined-therapy group, significant improvements in clinical and instrumental measures such as EASI scores, skin hydration, and skin dryness were noted at 4 weeks compared to baseline, but such improvements were not noted in the topical corticosteroid-only group. Subjective assessments of itching and sleep disturbance and DLQI scores also showed significant improvements in the combined-therapy group. Conclusion Combined therapy with the MLE containing Defensamide™ and PC-9S and with topical corticosteroid demonstrated superior clinical outcomes compared with topical corticosteroid monotherapy. Our findings underscore the potential of MLE-containing formulations as effective adjunctive therapies for AD, offering both objective and subjective symptomatic relief and enhancing patients' quality of life.

Dry skin is a common dermatological condition that frequently affects the elderly. A contributing cause to dry skin is a reduced concentration of hyaluronic acid (HA) in both the epidermis and dermis. The effectiveness of moisturizer containing HA as a therapy for dry skin is impacted by its specific molecular weight. Low molecular weight HA (LMWHA) is believed to be more effective in replenishing skin hydration in aging skin compared to High Molecular Weight HA (HMWHA) due to its ability to penetrate the stratum corneum. However, there is a lack of clinical research supporting this claim. A double-blind, randomized controlled trial was conducted on 36 residents of a nursing home in Jakarta. The participants, aged between 60 and 80 years, had been diagnosed with dry skin. Each test subject was administered three distinct, randomized moisturizing lotions (LMWHA, HMWHA, or vehicle), to be topically applied to three separate sites on the leg. Skin capacitance (SCap), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and specified symptom sum score (SRRC) were measured at weeks 0, 2, and 4. After four weeks of therapy, area that was treated with LMWHA showed greater SCap values compared to the area treated with HMWHA (56.37 AU vs. 52.37 AU, p = 0.004) and vehicle (56.37 AU vs. 49.01 AU, p < 0.001). All groups did not show any significant differences in TEWL and SRRC scores. No side effects were found in all groups. The application of a moisturizer containing LMWHA to the dry skin of elderly resulted in significant improvements in skin hydration compared to moisturizers containing HMWHA and vehicle. Furthermore, these moisturizers demonstrated similar safety in treating dry skin in the elderly. ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier NCT06178367, . [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients' quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Oxidative stress is closely associated with the aging process, prompting an investigation into the therapeutic potential of Andrographis paniculata extract, Syzygium aromaticum oil, and Pogostemon cablin oil, herbs known for their widespread medicinal use. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant properties of skincare products, including facial wash, moisturizer, and serum formulated with these oild and extract. Utilizing the DPPH assay to evaluate antioxidant activity, we found that all products displayed antioxidant activity, with the serum showing the greatest efficacy (IC50 value of 2792.17 μg/mL) compared to the moisturizer (IC25 value of 2541.73 μg/mL) and facial wash (IC25 value of 2752.01 μg/mL). Notably, all products (with active ingredients) significantly enhanced radical scavenging activity over the product bases (products without active ingredients) at 5000 μg/mL, with percentage improvement as follows: serum 53.48 ± 1.50%, moisturizer 39.5 ± 2.18%, and facial wash 7.23 ± 2.20%. These findings suggest that facial wash, moisturizer, and serum containing the combination of Andrographis paniculata extract, Syzygium aromaticum oil, and Pogostemon cablin oil have the potential to become effective anti-aging treatments in the cosmetic market due to their antioxidant properties. Further studies are needed to assess their mechanism of action as anti-aging cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Topical therapy is the mainstay treatment of acne, and topical retinoids such as tretinoin, tazarotene, and adapalene are recommended as the first‐line therapy for mild to moderate acne. However, the cutaneous irritations may occur, and the dermocosmetics are recommended to prevent side effects of anti‐acne drugs and adhere to treatment. Thus, this study aims to compare the efficacy and tolerability of ceramides and niacinamide‐containing moisturizer (CCM) versus hydrophilic cream in combination with topical anti‐acne treatment in mild to moderate acne vulgaris. Methods: This was an 8‐week, randomized, double‐blinded, split face study in 40 patients assigned for topical anti‐acne medications (5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.1% adapalene gel), then randomly applied CCM or hydrophilic cream. All patients were followed at week 0, 2, 4, and 8 for acne improvement, adverse reactions, biometric, and biophysical evaluation. Results: CCM could significantly improve the non‐inflammatory, inflammatory, and total acne lesions compared with hydrophilic cream after week 8 of treatment. Interestingly, there was an improvement of global worst score, hemoglobin index, melanin index, TEWL, skin hydration, sebum production, and skin surface pH, with no statistically significant differences between the two treatments. No serious side effects from clinical application of CCM and hydrophilic cream in mild to moderate acne vulgaris patients. Conclusion: Ceramide and niacinamide‐containing moisturizer in combination with anti‐acne medication can significantly improve acne lesions and decrease cutaneous irritations toward a satisfactory treatment outcome of mild to moderate acne vulgaris. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Moisturizers are designed to maintain skin health and treat dermatological conditions associated with impaired skin barrier function. However, differences in their composition account for the differences in their effect. Aims: This narrative review aims to discuss the role of barrier repair moisturizers, highlight the role of different components in a moisturizer and their role in impaired skin conditions (e.g., dry, itchy, inflamed, sensitive skin, atopic eczema), and thereby empower dermatologists and pediatricians in selecting the right moisturizer. Methods: PubMed, Embase, and Scopus electronic databases were searched from January 2000 to June 2023 for publications on skin barrier repair and use of barrier repair moisturizers for the treatment of dry, itchy, inflamed, sensitive skin, or atopic eczema. Studies conducted in humans, published in English for which full texts were freely available were included. Results: The structure and composition of lipid lamellae within the stratum corneum play an important role in maintaining an effective skin barrier and protecting the body from various external assaults. Endocannabinoid mediators play an active role in maintaining skin barrier function. Moisturizers containing physiological lipids and functional ingredients (e.g., endocannabinoids such as palmitoylethanolamide [PEA]) and based on the principles of biomimic technology are demonstrated to be beneficial for the management of conditions associated with a disrupted skin barrier. Conclusions: Moisturizer based on the innovative biomimic formulation has good cosmetic efficacy and is generally well tolerated, and the addition of PEA might represent a new generation of compounds that may be beneficial for long‐term management of impaired skin conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To overcome the disadvantage of strong moisture absorption of traditional moisturizing agent propylene glycol in heated tobacco products, a new type of moisturizing agent propylene glycol pyrrole ester was prepared, and its thermal behavior and moisture retention effect in reconstituted tobacco leaves were investigated by thermogravimetric- derivative thermogravimetry-differential scanning calorimetry, pyrolysis gas chromatography/ mass spectrometry and low-field nuclear magnetic resonance imaging. The results showed that: the thermal weight loss interval of propylene glycol pyrrole ester was from 149.9 °C to 400. 0°C and the maximum weight loss rate 77.39% reached at 298.7 °C. Propylene glycol pyrrole ester was subjected to thermal cracking at 200 °C, 300 °C and 350 °C, and it mainly could crack and decompose to release pyrrolidic acid and propylene glycol, among which propylene glycol could harmonise and reduce the sense of dryness of the tobacco. The moisture retention ability of reconstituted tobacco leaves added with propylene glycol pyrrole ester in low humidity environment was higher than that of the blank group, but lower than that of the propylene glycol group; The area of bound water inside the reconstituted tobacco leaves in a low humidity environment of propylene glycol group, propylene glycol pyrrole ester group and blank group was 75%, 70%, and 68%, respectively. Propylene glycol pyrrole ester could reduce the strong moisture absorption of reconstituted tobacco leaves while maintaining a certain degree of moisture retention. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, is a widely used topical agent, with a variety of uses in dermatology. Despite its popularity, many myths surround this ubiquitous dermatologic staple. This review details the history of petrolatum and how it is manufactured as well as how its biologic properties make it a great moisturizer. Additionally, data on its potential for flammability, allergenicity, and comedogenicity are detailed, dispelling misconceptions about petrolatum use around oxygen and as a cause of acne. The uses and benefits of petrolatum in dermatology are wide-ranging—a patch test instrument, a vehicle for medicated ointments, and a wound care essential. Given its ubiquitous presence, it is important for dermatologists to understand the history, safety profile, and myths surrounding this humble skincare staple. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: It is an international standard to recommend patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) to use moisturizers; however, little is known about their effect on lipids in the stratum corneum (SC). Methods: In this randomized clinical experiment of 30 Caucasian participants (15 with AD and 15 healthy controls), the superficial SC lipid profile was assessed through tape stripping non-lesional skin following treatment thrice daily for seven days with a moisturizer, and subsequently compared with untreated skin. Results: No discernible disparity in superficial SC lipid quantity was evident between the AD group and the control group. However, the SC lipid composition diverged significantly, with the AD group exhibiting diminished levels of long-chain EO CERs (p = 0.024) and elevated levels of short-chain C34 CERs (p = 0.025) compared to healthy skin. Moisturizer application significantly reduced the total SC lipids and all lipid subgroups in both groups. Within the AD group, a non-significant inclination towards an augmentation in EO CERs (p = 0.053) and reduction in C34 CERs (p = 0.073) was observed. Conclusion: The recent identification of distinctions in SC lipid composition between AD and healthy skin was substantiated by our findings. Topical moisturizer application, despite reducing overall total lipids, indicated a potential tendency towards a healthier lipid constitution in AD skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dry skin can often cause psychological discomfort. Moisturizer is a preparation that is used to improve dry skin. Kapok plant (Ceiba pentandra L. Gaertn) can be used as an active ingredient of moisturizer and can be used as a treatment, where the chemical content in kapok leaves are flavonoids, saponins, alkaloids, phenolic compounds, tannins and terpenoids as antioxidants. This study aims to determine the antioxidant activity of kapok leaf extract and moisturizer preparations with DPPH method using UV-Vis spectrophotometer, physical quality of preparations and antioxidant activity of moisturizer preparations using DPPH method. Kapok leaf extract was made in various concentrations, namely 20 ppm, 40 ppm and 60 ppm. The IC50 value of kapok leaf extract is 67.4007 ppm which has strong antioxidant activity. Then variations in the concentration of kapok leaf extract were put into the formulation of moisturizer preparations, the results of moisturizer preparations of kapok leaf extract and vitamin C met the requirements of the physical quality test. The moisturizer preparation was continued and tested for antioxidant activity using the DPPH method with ascorbic acid as a comparison. The results of the IC50 value on the kapuk leaf extract moisturizer preparation are 110.065 ppm which is classified as having moderate antioxidant activity and while the vitamin C moisturizer preparation is 9.8417 ppm which is classified as having very strong antioxidant activity.

Background: Clinically, hand dermatitis manifests as either irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) or allergy contact dermatitis (ACD). Patients with hand dermatitis typically use emollients to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Objective: This investigation aims to evaluate the efficacy of emollient topical therapy on hand dermatitis. Methods: The study's design was based on a literature review, and the research samples were obtained through online searches on Google Scholar, PubMed, and ScienceDirect. Results: 495 items were subsequently excluded based on the restriction criteria. We obtained eight research articles for evaluation. Hand Eczema Severity Index (HECSI), TEWL, Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI), Health-related quality of life (HRQoL), Modified Total Lesion Symptom Score (mTLSS), Investigator Global Assessment (IGA), and Visual analog score (VAS) were used to measure hand dermatitis, and there was a significant increase in these measurements for emollients. In the conclusion of the eight articles, six stated that they were significant, and two stated that emollients were effectively used as topical therapy. Conclusion: Emollients typically act on the epidermis, particularly the stratum corneum, which can reduce TEWL so that antigen penetration and inflammation spread are not facilitated.

Background: The aim of this study was to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of quince fruit, used in folk medicine. For this purpose, the phytoconstituents of Cydonia oblonga fruit extract, like phenolics and flavonoids, were determined. A stable cosmetic emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and subjected to in vivo evaluation compared with a control. Materials and Methods: Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was evaluated for tyrosinase activity and phenolic and flavonoid content. A stable emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and tested in a skin irritation test. After this, in vivo tests of erythema, moisture, sebum, and skin elasticity were conducted. The in vivo evaluation was a randomized and single-blind study. Thirteen healthy female volunteers were selected for a three-month study period. Results: Cydonia oblonga fruit extract showed good phenolic and flavonoid content, which was associated with its good antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibiting activity. Cydonia oblonga containing the emulgel showed a reduction in sebum and erythema, while the elasticity and moisture content showed increments in their levels after the three-month application of the formulation. The fruit contains chlorogenic acid and many sugars, which might account for its anti-inflammatory and sebum reduction effects; it is also capable of enhancing the skin's hydration level and decreasing skin sagging by enhancing its elasticity. Conclusion: The emulgel loaded with Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract is verified regarding its folklore status as a moisturizing agent that enhances the facial skin cells' resilience potential. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD.

Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is mainly used to treat xerosis. It also exerts wound‐healing, moisturizing, and antiaging effects. Although HA is considered an effective and safe ingredient in cosmetics, there is a constant demand for a more money‐saving and effective formulation. This study aimed to evaluate the safety and efficacy of a novel hydrogel‐based moisturizer containing HA cross‐linked with silicone polymers, produced solely through irradiation without the use of cross‐linking agents. Materials and Methods: A safety study enrolled 30 participants with healthy skin to perform patch and photopatch tests while recording adverse events. For the efficacy study, 30 participants with xerosis were compared before and after using the novel hydrogel, evaluating the cutaneous barrier function, xerosis severity scale (XSS) score, participant's satisfaction, and Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA). Furthermore, the efficacy of the novel hydrogel‐based moisturizer was evaluated by comparing it with a conventional moisturizer, Physiogel, in another 30 participants with xerosis. Results: In the safety study, no serious adverse events were observed. In the efficacy study before and after use, skin hydration and skin surface lipid increased (p < 0.05) whereas the XSS scores decreased (p < 0.05) with time. In the comparative efficacy study with Physiogel, skin hydration increased whereas the XSS scores decreased (p < 0.05) over time in both groups. Furthermore, IGA improved in 100% of participants in both groups. Also, 100% and 93% of participants were satisfied with the novel hydrogel‐based moisturizer and Physiogel, respectively. Conclusions: The novel hydrogel‐based moisturizer proved to be safe and effective for xerosis, showing comparable results to the conventional moisturizer. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Seborrhea leads to facial greasiness and unpleasant feeling. People with seborrhea also have trouble with selecting moisturizers. l‐Carnitine and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) are reported anti‐sebum properties. However, neither efficacy comparison nor the combination effect of the two topical anti‐sebum agents was studied. Moisturizing cream with these agents is supposed to provide skin with an optimal water–oil balance. Aims: To compare the efficacy of moisturizer containing 2% l‐carnitine or 5% EGCG alone on sebum controlling, and the synergistic effect of these two agents. Methods: Three study creams were formulated by adding three kinds of anti‐sebum agents which were 2% l‐carnitine, 5% EGCG, and 2% l‐carnitine plus 5% EGCG in moisturizing cream base of dimethicone and glycerin. A randomized clinical trial was conducted. Ninety subjects, divided into three groups, applied the cream for 4 weeks. Sebum level, skin capacitance, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated at Weeks 0, 1, 2, and 4. Life qualities and subjective outcomes were assessed before and after treatment. Results: The mean sebum reduction from baseline was statistically significant in all treatment groups (p < 0.01). The median time to oil control was longer in l‐carnitine group. The combine group had significantly greater anti‐sebum efficacy than l‐carnitine group (p = 0.009). All three groups had significant improvement of other objective parameters and subjective outcomes. Conclusions: The anti‐sebum moisturizing cream exhibited beneficial effect on the sebum reduction with improve skin hydration in people with seborrhea and made users satisfied. The EGCG group and the combine group show the greater anti‐sebum effect than the l‐carnitine group. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a cicatricial alopecia affecting the frontotemporal hairline. Given that this scarring, immune-mediated follicular destruction most commonly affects postmenopausal Caucasian women, researchers have postulated that there are hormonal and genetic components; however, the etiology of FFA is still unknown. Recently, dermatologists have reported cases of FFA as being potentially caused by cosmetic products, such as sunscreen and shampoo. Therefore, this systematic review and meta-analysis intend to be the first to analyze the relationship between FFA and cosmetic/personal care products and treatments, including sunscreen, moisturizer, foundation, shampoo, conditioner, hair mousse, hair gel, hair dye, hair straightening/rebonding, chemical/laser facial resurfacing, aftershave, and facial cleanser. Methods: The Cochrane, PubMed, EMBASE, and Medline (Ovid) databases were searched for the relevant studies from the date of inception to August 2022. Case–control, cross-sectional, and cohort studies examining the effects of cosmetic/personal care product use on FFA, available in English full-text, were included. Analyses were performed using Review Manager, version 5.4. Results were reported as an odds ratio (OR) with a 95% confidence interval (CI); p values < 0.05 were considered significant. Results: Nine studies were included in our quantitative analyses, totaling 1,248 FFA patients and 1,459 controls. There were significant positive associations found for FFA and sunscreen (OR 3.02, 95% CI 1.67–5.47; p = 0.0003) and facial moisturizer (OR 2.20, 95% CI 1.51–3.20; p < 0.0001) use. Gender sub-analyses demonstrated a positive association for FFA and facial moisturizer in men (OR 5.07, 95% CI 1.40–18.32; p = 0.01), but not in women (OR 1.58, 95% CI 0.83–2.98; p = 0.16). Both gender sub-analyses were significantly positive for the association with facial sunscreen (Male OR 4.61, 95% CI 1.54–13.78, p = 0.006; Female OR 2.74, 95% CI 1.32–5.70, p = 0.007). There was no association found for a facial cleanser (OR 1.14, 95% CI 0.33–1.52; p = 0.51), foundation (OR 1.13, 95% CI 0.83–1.55; p = 0.21), shampoo (OR 0.49, 95% CI 0.22–1.10; p = 0.08), hair conditioner (OR 0.81, 95% CI 0.52–1.26; p = 0.35), hair mousse (OR 1.37, 95% CI 0.75–2.51; p = 0.31), and hair gel (OR 0.90, 95% CI 0.48–1.69; p = 0.74), hair dye (OR 1.07, 95% CI 0.69–1.64; p = 0.77), hair straightening/rebonding (OR 0.88, 95% CI 0.08–9.32; p = 0.92), hair perming (OR 1.41, 95% CI 0.89–2.23; p = 0.14), facial toner (OR 0.51, 95% CI 0.12–2.21; p = 0.37), or aftershave (OR 1.64, 95% CI 0.28–9.49; p = 0.58). Conclusions: This meta-analysis strongly suggests that leave-on facial products, facial sunscreen and moisturizer, are associated with FFA. While the association with facial moisturizer did not persist when stratifying for female populations, gender sub-analyses remained significant for a facial sunscreen. There was no significant relationship found with hair products or treatments. These findings suggest a potential environmental etiology in the development of FFA, particularly UV-protecting chemicals. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Repeated exogenous exposure can disrupt the skin barrier hence affecting its ability to maintain water levels and disrupt lipids in the stratum corneum to trigger transepidermal water loss (TEWL), causing skin to become scaly, dull, itchy, and more sensitive. The skin also contains a natural moisturizer called natural moisturizing factor (NMF). However, if NMF is insufficient to maintain skin moisture, additional protection is needed using a cosmetic moisturizer. A moisturizer is a product aimed to increase skin hydration and maintain normal skin pH. Moisturizer is classified as occlusive, humectant, and emollient moisturizers with different work mechanisms. Although reports on the side effects of moisturizer are rare, moisturizer can cause xerosis and positively modifies the skin barrier. Other harmful reactions for the skin include abnormal sensations, such as pain, burning and stinging over facial skin. Therefore, the ingredients in moisturizers need to be considered to prevent toxicity or adverse effects. This review aims to evaluate published studies on cosmetics, advantages, disadvantages and characterization of moisturizers. The characteristics discussed in this review include organoleptic/light test, pH determination, stability, spreadability, saponification value, density, viscosity, homogeneity, irritability, in vitro and in vivo skin hydration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The skin microbiota barrier participates in skin barrier function in addition to the physical, chemical, and immunological protective barriers, and is affected by environmental aggressors and skincare regimens. To better understand the exact effects of real-life environmental conditions on the skin and determine the protective methods, this study investigates the effects of three topical cosmetic moisturizers (water gel moisturizers with/without yeast extract (Moisturizers K and C) and a thick-emulsion cream moisturizer (Moisturizer L)) on clinical and skin microbiome endpoints in the presence of environmental aggressors during an 8-week, randomized controlled, triple-blind clinical trial with 110 participants, and molecular- as well as biomarker-level endpoints on ex vivo skin explants after exposure to simulate urban environmental conditions. The results show that all moisturizers are well-tolerated and improve skin barrier function and surface moisture content from the baseline, and the improvement is maintained at the last analysis point (3 days after trial completion). Compared with the untreated control areas (samples taken from the upper chest), treatment with Moisturizer K prevented a reduction in bacterial and fungal richness, and increased the change ratio of the relative abundance of commensal bacteria, such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and Ralstonia, at the treated sites (samples taken from the forehead). Moreover, Moisturizer K-treated ex vivo skin explants had higher levels of caspase 14 (a marker of skin barrier function), collagen I, and elastin (structure components), and lower levels of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR; activated by air pollutants) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) than those in explants treated with other moisturizers and in the untreated areas of the skin. These results suggest that a skin postbiotic moisturizer with yeast extract supports the regulation of the skin's microbiome balance and may provide a holistic barrier (involving skin microbiome, physical, chemical, and immune barriers) to protect the skin against environmental aggressors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: It is an international standard to recommend patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) to use moisturizers; however, little is known about their effect on lipids in the stratum corneum (SC). Methods: In this randomized clinical experiment of 30 Caucasian participants (15 with AD and 15 healthy controls), the superficial SC lipid profile was assessed through tape stripping non-lesional skin following treatment thrice daily for seven days with a moisturizer, and subsequently compared with untreated skin. Results: No discernible disparity in superficial SC lipid quantity was evident between the AD group and the control group. However, the SC lipid composition diverged significantly, with the AD group exhibiting diminished levels of long-chain EO CERs (p = 0.024) and elevated levels of short-chain C34 CERs (p = 0.025) compared to healthy skin. Moisturizer application significantly reduced the total SC lipids and all lipid subgroups in both groups. Within the AD group, a non-significant inclination towards an augmentation in EO CERs (p = 0.053) and reduction in C34 CERs (p = 0.073) was observed. Conclusion: The recent identification of distinctions in SC lipid composition between AD and healthy skin was substantiated by our findings. Topical moisturizer application, despite reducing overall total lipids, indicated a potential tendency towards a healthier lipid constitution in AD skin.

The demand for non-hormonal therapies for vulvovaginal atrophy (VVA) is increasing due to an increasing number of patients surviving long term post cancer diagnosis, as well as increased public knowledge of the symptoms of menopause and availability of non-hormonal therapies. Treatment options are wide-ranging and encompass different formulations and methods of application. This review summarizes the key characteristics of the main forms of these therapies, as well as considering the current evidence for each of them and where future clinical studies should be directed. Care for VVA may be in primary care, or under gynecology or oncology. Further research requirements include the need for long-term data as well larger randomized controlled trials into alternatives where vaginal estrogen cannot be used as first-line treatment. Widespread education of health-care providers and patients on VVA and the impact on quality of life is urgently needed, as well as increased use of non-hormonal methods in routine clinical practice. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Agarobiose (AB; d-galactose-β-1,4-AHG), produced by one-step acid hydrolysis of agarose of red seaweed, is considered a promising cosmetic ingredient due to its skin-moisturizing activity. In this study, the use of AB as a cosmetic ingredient was found to be hampered due to its instability at high temperature and alkaline pH. Therefore, to increase the chemical stability of AB, we devised a novel process to synthesize ethyl-agarobioside (ethyl-AB) from the acid-catalyzed alcoholysis of agarose. This process mimics the generation of ethyl α-glucoside and glyceryl α-glucoside by alcoholysis in the presence of ethanol and glycerol during the traditional Japanese sake-brewing process. Ethyl-AB also showed in vitro skin-moisturizing activity similar to that of AB, but showed higher thermal and pH stability than AB. This is the first report of ethyl-AB, a novel compound produced from red seaweed, as a functional cosmetic ingredient with high chemical stability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Various moisturizers have been developed for mild and moderate atopic dermatitis (AD). Turmeric (Curcuma longa), containing a potent anti-inflammatory substance, is one of the promising ingredient for moisturizers. By formulating turmeric into nanoemulgel preparation, cutaneous absorption is enhanced. This study aims to determine the effect of 1% turmeric rhizome extract moisturizing nanoemulgel on thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), interleukin (IL)-13, IL-17 levels, histopathological feature, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) value, and dermatitis score in an AD-like mouse model induced by dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB). Methods: This study used 35 female BALB/C mice aged 6–8 weeks, weighing 20–30 g. Mice were divided into the treatment group (DNCB and 1% turmeric rhizome extract moisturizing nanoemulgel) and the control group (DNCB and vehicle gel). The DNCB application was carried out twice a week, from day 14 to day 29. On day 30, skin tissue samples were taken to examine TSLP, IL-13, IL-17 levels, and histopathological examination. Results: The treatment group showed lower TSLP, IL-13, and skin tissue IL-17 levels than the control group (P < 0.05). In addition, applying 1% turmeric rhizome extract, moisturizing nanoemulgel improved the treatment group’s dermatitis score and histopathological features compared to the control group (P < 0.05). The 1% turmeric extract moisturizing nanoemulgel decreased the TEWL but was statistically insignificant compared to the control group (P > 0.05). Conclusions: Applying 1% turmeric rhizome extract moisturizing nanoemulgel ameliorates AD-like skin lesions by decreasing TSLP, IL-13, and IL-17 levels in the DNCB-induced BALB/c mouse model.

The mainstay of non-invasive scar management, consists of pressure therapy with customized pressure garments often combined with inlays, hydration by means of silicones and/or moisturizers as well as UV protection. It is generally accepted that scar dehydration resulting from impaired barrier function of the stratum corneum and expressed by raised trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) values, can lead to increased fibroblast activity and thereby hypertrophic scar formation. However, we have reached no consensus on exactly what optimal scar hydration is nor on barrier function repair: by means of silicone sheets, liquid silicone gels or moisturizers. Occlusive silicone sheets almost completely prevent TEWL and have been shown to be effective. Nevertheless, many important disadvantages due to excessive occlusion such as difficulties in applying the sheets exceeding 10–12 h, pruritus, irritation, and maceration of the skin are limiting factors for its use. To avoid these complications and to facilitate the application, liquid silicone gels were developed. Despite a reduced occlusion, various studies have shown that the effects are comparable to these of the silicone sheets. However, major limiting factors for general use are the long drying time, the shiny aspect after application, and the high cost especially when used for larger scars. Based on excellent clinical results after using three specific moisturizers for scar treatment in our patients, we wanted to investigate whether these moisturizers induce comparable occlusion and hydration compared to both each other and the widely recognized liquid silicone gels. We wanted to provide a more scientific basis for the kind of moisturizers that can be used as a full-fledged and cost-effective alternative to silicone gel. A total of 36 healthy volunteers participated in this study. Increased TEWL was created by inducing superficial abrasions by rigorous (20x) skin stripping with Corneofix® adhesive tape in squares of 4 cm². Three moisturizers and a fluid silicone gel were tested: DermaCress, Alhydran, Lipikar and BAP Scar Care silicone gel respectively. TEWL reducing capacities and both absolute (AAH) and cumulative (CAAH) absolute added hydration were assessed using a Tewameter® TM300 and a Corneometer® CM825 at different time points for up to 4 h after application. We found an immediate TEWL increase in all the zones that underwent superficial abrasions by stripping. Controls remained stable over time, relative to the ambient condition. The mean percentage reduction (MPR) in TEWL kept increasing over time with Alhydran and DermaCress, reaching a maximum effect 4 h after application. Silicone gel reached maximal MPR almost immediately after application and only declined thereafter. The silicone gel never reached the minimal MPR of Alhydran or DermaCress. Hydration capacity assessed through CAAH as measured by the Corneometer was significantly less with silicone gel compared to the moisturizers. Compared to silicone gel Lipikar provided similar occlusion and the improvement in hydration was highly significant 4 h after application. Based on the results of both our previous research and this study it is clearly demonstrated that the occlusive and hydrative effect of fluid silicone gel is inferior to the moisturizers used in our center. Lipikar hydrates well but is less suitable for scar treatment due to the lack of occlusion. A well-balanced occlusion and hydration, in this study only provided by Alhydran and DermaCress, suggests that moisturizers can be used as a scar hydration therapy that replaces silicone products, is more cost-effective and has a more patient-friendly application. • Unbalanced moisturizers provide hydration without adequate occlusion and can paradoxically lead to skin dehydration. • Well-balanced moisturizers provide strong occlusion and hydration of the stratum corneum with high longevity. • Well-balanced moisturizers are an alternative to silicone products in scar prevention and management. • DermaCress and Alhydran are examples of well-balanced moisturizers, making them ideal for scar hydration. • The occlusive properties of fluid silicone gels might be overrated and they do not provide true skin barrier restoration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Atopic dermatitis (AD), sometimes referred to as eczema, is the most common chronic skin condition in children. Children of color have a higher reported prevalence of AD compared with their White counterparts. The purpose of this article is to discuss the differences of AD in skin of color (SOC), including clinical findings and management, with an emphasis on early recognition to avoid more severe, persistent disease. School nurses are on the frontline for these students with their ability to guide families and help support students with AD in the school setting. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Prolonged face mask usage, a daily practice for the public due to the COVID‐19 pandemic, creates high levels of humidity underneath the mask, which may cause unexpected skin concerns. Objective: To investigate the impact of repeated mask usage on the face by comparing skin properties inside and outside of the mask‐covered areas. Methods: A double‐blinded, randomized, split‐face clinical study was conducted with 21 healthy female participants who wore face masks at least 6 h every day for 1 week, with one side of their face treated with a moisturizer three times daily. On day 8, after 5 h of wearing the mask, skin properties (sebum, hydration, and trans‐epidermal water loss [TEWL]) were evaluated at 15, 60, and 120 min post‐mask removal, followed by barrier disruption and recovery assessment. Results: Mask usage weakened stratum corneum (SC) on facial skin compared to uncovered areas, including reduced SC hydration (p < 0.02 at 15 min) and increased TEWL in response to tape stripping challenge (p < 0.03 after stripping). In addition, sebum production also increased after mask removal (p < 0.01 at 15 min). Notably, a daily moisturizer mitigated these effects by increasing SC hydration (p < 0.001) and improving SC resilience against barrier disruption. Conclusion: Daily prolonged usage of a facial mask, essential due to the COVID‐19 situation, generated a high‐humidity microenvironment and led to compromised SC, which was revealed by a barrier challenge technique. Moreover, proper facial moisturization may help to maintain skin homeostasis and prevent the barrier impairment caused by repeated mask usage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: We conducted a systematic review and meta-analysis to investigate the effectiveness of moisturizers on acute radiation dermatitis (ARD) in breast cancer patients receiving radiotherapy (RT). Methods: PubMed, the Cochrane Library, CINAHL, and Ichushi-Web were searched for randomized controlled trials (RCTs) from April 2015 to March 2020. Assessments included type of intervention, cohort, outcomes, and quality of evidence. To evaluate the effect of moisturizer on ARD, we restricted analyses to studies comparing with standard skin care or no treatment. Outcomes were ARD severity and skin-related QOL (quality of life). Eligible studies were identified, and risk ratios and mean differences were extracted to compare outcome data. Results: We screened 210 RCTs along with 14 studies included in a previous iteration of this analysis (2016), supplemented by a hand search (n = 9). Finally, we included 6 RCTs that investigated the effectiveness of standard type moisturizers in breast cancer patients receiving RT. Evidence (weak certainty) suggests that moisturizer use might reduce ≥ grade 3 ARD. QOL assessed by Skindex-16 improved with moisturizer use. Pain and pruritus measured by the visual analog scale (VAS) resulted in a smaller and nonsignificant difference in favor of moisturizer use. However, the certainty of the evidence was very weak in QOL. Conclusions: The proactive use of moisturizer may play a role in reducing ARD and improving skin-related QOL, although the certainty of the evidence was weak to very weak. Future high-quality RCTs should be initiated to strengthen these results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is among the most effective and safe ingredients frequently used in cosmetics. However, a more economical and efficient formulation is still required. Objective: We sought to assess the safety and efficacy of a novel hydrogel manufactured only by irradiation containing cross‐linked HA and polyethylene glycol polymers with addition of polysiloxane. Methods: The study included 30 people with normal skin and 30 patients with xerosis. In the normal skin group, to evaluate the safety, a patch test and a photopatch test were performed, and patients' discomfort was investigated. In those with xerosis, to assess the efficacy, a skin barrier function test was performed at baseline and at 2, 4, and 8 weeks after the application of the novel hydrogel. Additionally, the xerosis severity scale (XSS), patient satisfaction, Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA), and adverse responses were evaluated. Results: In the safety study, there was no significant discomfort in the experimental group compared with the control group. In the efficacy study, at 2, 4, and 8 weeks after the application of the novel hydrogel, the mean value of skin hydration and sebum content increased and the mean value of XSS decreased with time in the experimental group, and a difference was observed when compared with the control group. IGA showed improvement in 97%, 77%, and 80% at each visit and the proportions of satisfied patients were 90%, 87%, and 90%, respectively. Conclusions: The novel HA‐based hydrogel tested herein could be a safe and effective therapeutic remedy for xerosis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: The aim of this study was to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of quince fruit, used in folk medicine. For this purpose, the phytoconstituents of Cydonia oblonga fruit extract, like phenolics and flavonoids, were determined. A stable cosmetic emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and subjected to in vivo evaluation compared with a control. Materials and Methods: Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was evaluated for tyrosinase activity and phenolic and flavonoid content. A stable emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and tested in a skin irritation test. After this, in vivo tests of erythema, moisture, sebum, and skin elasticity were conducted. The in vivo evaluation was a randomized and single-blind study. Thirteen healthy female volunteers were selected for a three-month study period. Results: Cydonia oblonga fruit extract showed good phenolic and flavonoid content, which was associated with its good antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibiting activity. Cydonia oblonga containing the emulgel showed a reduction in sebum and erythema, while the elasticity and moisture content showed increments in their levels after the three-month application of the formulation. The fruit contains chlorogenic acid and many sugars, which might account for its anti-inflammatory and sebum reduction effects; it is also capable of enhancing the skin’s hydration level and decreasing skin sagging by enhancing its elasticity. Conclusion: The emulgel loaded with Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract is verified regarding its folklore status as a moisturizing agent that enhances the facial skin cells’ resilience potential.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic disease in which epidermal barrier disruption triggers Th2-mediated eruption of eczematous lesions. Topical emollients are a cornerstone of chronic management. This study evaluated efficacy of two plant-derived oil derivatives, isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL) and isosorbide dicaprylate (IDC), using AD-like tissue culture models. Treatment of reconstituted human epidermis with cytokine cocktail (IL-4 + IL-13 + TNF-α + IL-31) compromised the epidermal barrier, but this was prevented by co-treatment with IDL and IDC. Cytokine stimulation also dysregulated expression of keratinocyte (KC) differentiation genes whereas treatment with IDC or IDL + IDC up-regulated genes associated with early (but not late) KC differentiation. Although neither IDL nor IDC inhibited Th2 cytokine responses, both compounds repressed TNF-α-induced genes and IDL + IDC led to synergistic down-regulation of inflammatory (IL1B, ITGA5) and neurogenic pruritus (TRPA1) mediators. Treatment of cytokine-stimulated skin explants with IDC decreased lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) secretion by more than 50% (more than observed with cyclosporine) and in vitro LDH activity was inhibited by IDL and IDC. These results demonstrate anti-inflammatory mechanisms of isosorbide fatty acid diesters in AD-like skin models. Our findings highlight the multifunctional potential of plant oil derivatives as topical ingredients and support studies of IDL and IDC as therapeutic candidates. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aims: To assess the effect of a 28‐day skincare regimen in healthy female subjects on the facial skin microbiome composition and to determine whether the skincare regimen including a gentle cleansing lotion, a multi‐functional anti‐aging moisturizer formulated with prebiotics and postbiotics at skin neutral pH, and bland sunscreen pushed the microbiome to a healthier state and improved skin aging measured by self‐assessment and clinical photography. Methods and Results: The study protocol was in accordance with the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) guidance and met all international standards. In all, 25 female subjects between 35 and 65 years old with Fitzpatrick skin types I–VI, moderate crow's feet wrinkles and global face photodamage were enrolled. After 28 days, the skincare regimen improved microbial facial diversity and shifted the microbiota composition when compared to baseline. Conclusions: After 28 days, the skincare regimen treatment shifted the distribution of the facial skin microbiome, positively influencing the skin microbiome diversity and balance, to promote long‐term skin health and protect from further skin aging. Significance and Impact of the Study: These results suggest that incorporating prebiotics and postbiotics into a skincare regimen may have a positive impact on the facial skin microbiome in healthy women. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The addition of natural molecules such as microbial exopolysaccharides in cosmetics is a trend in the current market, adding properties and improving the product quality. Therefore, the aim of this study was to develop a facial biocosmetic formulation containing microbial levan, almond and cinnamon oils. The centroid-simplex design was used to evaluate the spreadability, antioxidant activity, moisture retention capacity and viscosity of formulations. Since it is a facial cosmetic, the formulation was optimized using the intermediate viscosity. The optimized formulation with intermediate viscosity was 75% (0.75 g) levan and 25% (2 mL) almond oil, without the addition of cinnamon oil. This formulation was submitted to 90 days under different exposure conditions, and the results showed a spreadability of 805 mm2, pH and density ideal for the facial area, with an antioxidant activity of 72%, hydration capacity of 100.3%, viscosity with no-Newtonian behavior, and normal organoleptic properties when stored at room and low temperature. The formulation with levan associated with almond oil showed potential for application in the facial area, with high antioxidant properties, moisturizing intermediate viscosity and stability for 90 days. The utilization of centroid-simplex design allowed the development of a biocosmetic with desired characteristics just by adjusting the concentrations of the bioactive.

Agarobiose (AB; d-galactose-β-1,4-AHG), produced by one-step acid hydrolysis of agarose of red seaweed, is considered a promising cosmetic ingredient due to its skin-moisturizing activity. In this study, the use of AB as a cosmetic ingredient was found to be hampered due to its instability at high temperature and alkaline pH. Therefore, to increase the chemical stability of AB, we devised a novel process to synthesize ethyl-agarobioside (ethyl-AB) from the acid-catalyzed alcoholysis of agarose. This process mimics the generation of ethyl α-glucoside and glyceryl α-glucoside by alcoholysis in the presence of ethanol and glycerol during the traditional Japanese sake-brewing process. Ethyl-AB also showed in vitro skin-moisturizing activity similar to that of AB, but showed higher thermal and pH stability than AB. This is the first report of ethyl-AB, a novel compound produced from red seaweed, as a functional cosmetic ingredient with high chemical stability.

Dry skin is a problem for millions of people and often causes discomfort and even psychological stress. Increasing the water content in the stratum corneum can be done by applying moisturizer regularly and regularly because it will improve lipid levels and hydrate the epidermis. Saccharide isomers (SI) are one of the answers for the development of Glycobiology. The hypothesis of this study is that the addition of 5% SI in the moisturizing formulation further increases skin hydration and can maintain higher skin hydration even after discontinuation of use compared to ordinary moisturizers. The research subjects were 30 women aged 30-45 years who were not menopausal. Randomly divided into control group (15 people) and treatment group (15 people) by double blind. Moisturizer used for 2 weeks in a row, then discontinued use. Measurement of skin hydration was carried out 3 times a week during the use of moisturizer and after discontinuation. The non-invasive measuring instrument used is the Multi Skin Test Center® MC 750 made in Germany. Giving moisturizer in both groups resulted in an increase in skin hydration after 2 weeks of use (p<0.05). After discontinuation of the moisturizer, the four locations showed significant differences in skin hydration (p<0.05). From the results of this study, it can be concluded that the addition of 5% SI in the moisturizing formulation can increase skin hydration higher and can maintain higher skin hydration even after discontinuation of administration compared to ordinary moisturizers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]