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Shape factors of a tight skirt and 3 kinds of flared skirts were investigated precisely. Shape factors of circular fabrics were calculated from mechanical parameters obtained by KES system, however, those of skirts were obtained experimentally. Those results were compared with drape parameters of circular fabrics such as node number (n), static (Ds) and dynamic drape coefficients as revolving drape increase coefficient (Dr), saturated drape coefficient (D200) and turning-around drape coefficient (Dd). They were also compared with node number and static drape coefficient of skits at hem line. Following conclusions were obtained. In the case of tight skirt, flare-1 skirt and flare-2 skirt, the shape factor showed high correlation with drape parameters of the skirts and circular fabrics. The shape factor of skirts has high positive correlation with node number and negative correlation with static drape coefficient of circular fabrics. In the case of flare-3 skirt, there is no correlation between the shape factor and the drape parameters of circular fabrics and skirts, hence shape factor becomes an important parameter which can evaluate the appearance of flared skirt objectively.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, Relationship between measured values of characteristic parameters of disposable diapers and subjective evaluation data was investigated precisely. As subjective evaluation of water diffusion in disposable diapers is dynamic process related to the diffusion of water, evaluation conditions and the time are very important. Amount of pouring water should be less than the critical saturated region of diapers to obtain reliable subjective results. The sense of "sarasara(dry)" and "touch" agreed well in the case of wet diapers, and it might be very important to keep the surface to be dried to get comfortable disposable diapers. Correlation coefficients between each objective value and subjective data were calculated and it was shown that the sense of "sarasara" was evaluated by a new parameter of Vh, that is, the peak value of remained water curve divided by the convergence time of the water. Further, "sarasara" was regressed with Fw, that is, the diffusion rate in horizontal direction and Fh, that is, the diffusion rate in vertical direction.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, Kinematics study of liquid diffusion was carried out for disposable diapers using colored salt water. A three-layers model was proposed for disposable diapers, which consists of diffusion, absorption and waterproof layers. It was clarified that liquid diffusion was proceeded horizontally in the diffusion layer at first, and then vertically into the absorbed layer. The equation of diffusion rate of liquid in the horizontal direction was derived on the basis of the disk model of capillary tubes, which were arranged in radial direction. Diffusion rate of liquid in the vertical direction could be calculated from the velocity curves of diffused liquid. The significance of four characteristic parameters, diffusion rate of liquid in the horizontal direction Fw, diffusion rate of liquid in the vertical direction Fh, the maximum area ratio Sm and the remaining area ratio Sr, proposed in our earlier papers were proved to be valuable.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, The water transfer behavior in disposable diapers was investigated by dynamic image analysis system using the colored salt water. The water transfer features are complex and the critical region of diapers occurs with the smaller amount of the water. New parameters showing the diffusion rate in the horizontal and perpendicular directions defined in the former paper could also be adapted for the salt water. The diffusion characteristics were also evaluated objectively by the four parameters and the three characteristic curves. The most suitable experimental conditions that can discriminate the difference between each sample were established as follows: quantity of flow; 6 ml/sec, amount of water pouring; 50 ml/times, the number of pouring repetition; 3 times.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, Water transfer behavior in disposable diapers was investigated by dynamic image processing system and following conclusions were obtained. Water transfer behavior is explained by three characteristic curves such as absorbed water, diffused water, and remained water on the top sheet. New parameters showing diffusion rate in horizontal and perpendicular directions are defined from the characteristic curves of diffused water. Wetting rate and water remaining rate of the top sheet are also defined from the characteristic curves of remained water. These parameters agree well with free water and flow water behavior from diapers and total quality of disposable diapers is evaluated objectively by these parameters.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to evaluate fabric handle of top sheet of disposable diapers objectively, primary hands for the top sheet were selected and defined from the opinions of consumers (mothers) who are using disposable diapers for their children. Four primary hands such as “NAMERAKASA”, “SOFUTOSA”, “KOSHI” and “FUKURAMI” were defined for the top sheet and they could ex-plain 87% of the descriptions used for hand evaluation. “NAMERAKASA” is considered to be a peculiar primary hand of top sheet of disposable diapers. Objective evaluation equation (DPC M-1) of the top sheet using those basic mechanical parameters was developed by stepwise re-gression method with high accuracy and small errors.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, The decomposition and analysis of wrinkle profiles (signals) utilizing the wavelet transforms are presented. The Continuous Wavelet Transform (CWT) is used to analyze their wavelet coefficients C, which indicates the similarity closely correlated with the wavelet, and their wavelet power spectra. The signal can be decomposed into an approximation a5 and details dn with the Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT), and 3-D images of the fabric wrinkles decomposed is obtained, proving a convenient format for the analysis of wrinkles and identifying the characterization of wrinkles. The analysis of wrinkle properties of AATCC replicas and fabrics are performed with this method. © 2008 The Textile Machinery Society of Japan.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, This paper describes the method evaluating the appearance of fabric-wrinkling replicas objectively by image processing. Results indicate that the wrinkle can be reliably measured using the distribution of gray level and the ratio of surface area, the ratio of X-direction length and the one of Y-direction length of surface profiles. All parameters with wrinkling fall on good logarithmic functions, which have high correlation coefficients. All parameters used can quantify the wrinkle of replicas with AATCC grades. The profile lines of surface are also analyzed with the method of Fast Fourier Transform. © 2008 The Textile Machinery Society of Japan.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to strdy fabric drape more precisely, a new method to obtain drape coefficient is proposed and hanged shape of fabric is desdribed using trigonometrical function. Relationship between the trigonometrical function and basic mechanical parameters is also investigated. Following conclusions were obtained : 1) Fabric has its own number of node when hanged on the circular support stand anddrape coefficient of the fabric becomes smaller at the own number of node. The hanged shape of fabric becomes stable and the reproducibility of drape coefficient becomes high if the coefficient is measured using the circular support stand which is divided into two parts, equilateral polygon stand and the residual stand.2) Fabric shape is described by the equation ; r=a+bsin (nθ), and the drape coefficient obtained by the equation agreed well with the actual one. Further, the hanged shape obtained theoretically also agreed well with the actual one.3) The trigonometrical function can be regressed well with fabric basic mechanicalparameters with high accuracy.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, Using orthogonal array method and analysis of variance, the sizing process for Water-jet Looms is fully investigated and the effects of four main factors and their interactions on the properties of sized filaments in wet are also analyzed. Among mechanical parameters, the abrasion-proof decreases very much, and the strength goes down slightly, but the elongation hardly changes in wet condition comparing with that in dry one. The type of sizing agents affects the properties of sized filaments most significantly. The properties of filaments sized by various sizing agents are quite different. Sizing agent No. 1 is the best one. The interactions between factors in sizing process also affected the properties of sized filaments. However, changing the single factor hardly causes the influence for the properties of sized filaments significantly. The optimum sizing conditions are suggested. © 2008 The Textile Machinery Society of Japan.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, To evaluate dynamic drape behavior of fabrics in swinging motion of fabrics, a testing device to measure dynamic drapeability in continuous swinging motion was designed, and new adequate parameters that can represent dynamic drapeability of fabrics were defined and the stability of those parameters was discussed. Following conclusions were obtained. At the maximum angle in one-time swinging motion, fabrics were subjected to the largest acceleration and the projected area changed remarkably. It was concluded that the change of the projected area characterized dynamic drapeability of fabrics in swinging motion. Dynamic drape coefficient Ddwas defined as a parameter of the dynamic drapeability, and it maintained high accuracy and reproducibility. Ddand mechanical parameters of bending and shearing properties of fabrics were studied precisely and the regression equations were derived from those mechanical parameters. It was shown clearly that Ddwas controlled firstly by fabric weight, secondly by shearing property and bending property.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In the measurement of dynamic drape coefficient of fabrics, mean correlation coefficient between measured data and regressed values of revolving drape increase coefficient ; Dr, shows the highest value if the straight region of 2 nd step is decided from 50 to 130 rpm. Standard deviation of the correlation coefficient becomes the smallest value in this region. Therefore, the revolving drape increase coefficient could be defined as the slope of dynamic drape coefficient versus revolution speed curves in the region between 50 and 130 rpm. Relationship between Dr, revolving drape coefficient at 200 rpm ; D200, and mechanical parameters of bending and shearing properties were studied precisely and the regression equations were derived from those mechanical parameters. It was shown clearly that Dr and D200 are controlled predominantly by shearing property rather than bending property as it has the effect on conventional static drape coefficient.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, To evaluate dynamic drape behavior of fabrics, a testing device to measure dynamic drapability was designed and new adequate parameters which can represent dynamic drapability were defined and the stability of those parameters were discussed. Following conclusions were obtained.As the revolution of fabric increases, fabric overhangs and the projected area changes in three stages.Dynamic drape increase coefficient ; Dd, which shows the degree of fabric overhanging with revolution speed, is defined as a parameter of dynamic drapability . The parameter is a slope at the 2nd stage.As the effect of airflow is larger for rotating fabrics at higher revolution speed, dynamic drape coefficent at 200 rpm;D200, is defined also as a parameter of dynamic drapability .Both the dynamic drape increase coefficient and the dynamic drape coefficient at 200 rpm showed high accuracy and reproducibility.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to study the relationship between drape coefficients and bending vibrational parameters of fabrics, grey relationship analysis was applied and the degree of the relationship was investigated. Following conclusions were obtained : 1) The degree of relationship to drape coefficient was in the order of Δd1>S2>P>B>S1> Δd2 >2HB > T. The degree of Δd1 (amplitude decrease of the 1st step), S2 (vibration duration period of the 1st step and the 2nd step) was larger than that of B, 2HB and thdegree of S1 (vibration duration period of the 1st step), Δd2 (amplitude decrease of the 2nd step) was similar to that of B, 2HB. Fabric drapability could be explained by bending vibrational parameters, Δd 1, Δd2, S1 andS2, more suitably than by pure bending parameters, B, and 2HB. 2) The degree of threads in cloth P, is high to drape coefficient and the effect of P is larger than yarn twist T, on drapability. 3) The degree of relationship of threads in cloth and yarn twist to vibrational parameters is high, however, the former is larger.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, To investigate the relationship between mechanical parameters and drape shape of fabrics more precisely, simulation method was used by the trigonometric function of the drape shape. Following conclusions were obtained. The effect of mechanical parameters such as B (bending rigidity), G (shearing rigidity), 2HG (shearing hysteresis), and W (weight per unit area) on the parameters of drape shape, projected size of the drape shape (a), depth of the wave (b), node number (n), was shown quantitatively. The mechanical parameters of fabrics can be predicted from the drape shape of fabrics. W and B of fabrics influenced mostly on the projected size of the drape shape and the node number. If the node number is constant, B had almost no effect on depth of the wave, however, G, 2HG and W showed a small influence. Anisotropy of B in the warp and weft direction of fabric changed the projected size of the drape shape, and the effect was larger with the fabric having smaller W. Drape shape of fabrics changed considerably by the parameters of fabric construction such as fiber material, yarn twist, yarn.density.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, (1) The Theoretical equation of the amplitude decrease of the 1st step in bending vibration (=Δd1) derived in the former paper was explained more precisely. In the comparison between woven and knitted fabrics, Δd1 of knitted fabrics is larger and S1 (vibration duration period of the 1st step), S2 (vibration duration period of the 1 st step and the 2nd step) are smaller. Δd2 (amplitude decrease of the 2nd step) showed similar values in both fabrics. Δd1 of spun yarn fabrics is larger than that of filament yarn fabrics, and bending vibration stops sooner in spun yarn fabrics. Δd2 showed similar values in both fabrics. By cluster analysis, it was shown that a combination of the parameters; Δd1, S2, B is best for classifying spun or filament yarn fabrics, and that a combination of the parameters; Δd2, S1, 2HB is best for classifying wool, cotton or silk fabrics.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, To investigate about fabric drapability of anisotropic fabrics, a method to decide the direction of a node isproposed, and the hanged shape of fabric is described using trigonometric function. Relationship between thetrigonometric function and basic mechanical parameters is also investigated. Following conclusions wereobtained : 1) Deciding at least one node for a fabric in the direction of larger value of B and/or 2HB in the warp or weftdirection, hanged shape of fabric becomes stable and reproducibility of measurement becomes high .2) Two-dimensional projection of fabric shape is described by the equation ; r (θ) =(a+amcos (anθ+α))+ (b+bmcos (bnθ+β)) cos (n (θ-90)), and the drape coefficient obtained by the equation;D= (4a2+2b2+2a2m+b2m-4R20) /12R20, agreed well with the actual one. Further, the hanged shape obtained theoretically also agreed well with the actual one.3) Constants in the trigonometric function can be regressed well with fabric basic mechanical parameterswith high accuracy.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, The relationship between static silhouette of flared skirt and mechanical properties of fabrics was investigated and following conclusions were obtained : 1) Hem line of flared skirt having smaller values of B, 2HB, G, and 2 HG, is apt to be rolled up. 2) Front shape of the flared skirt's silhouette depends on mechanical properties of fabrics. The effect of bending parameters ; B, 2HB, 3√B/W, √2HB/W, is larger than shearing parameters ; G, 2 HG, 3√G/W, √2HG/W. There is a high correlation between hem angle a and drape coefficient of fabric D.Correlation coefficients between the four parameters of bending vibration and hem angle are large. 3) The node number n and the average wave height h in the cross-sectional shape of the flared skirt's silhouette are strongly related to mechanical properties of fabrics. Correlation coefficient of the drape coefficient of fabric is small with the node number, however, is large with the average wave height. 4) The equation to obtain static silhouette of flared skirt was derived form mechanical properties of fabrics.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to clarify the mechanism of the inter-yarn and/or inter-fiber frictional effect during bending vibration of fabrics, a model of fabric bending vibration was proposed. The model was studied using the samples having different degree of weft yarn density and yarn twist and following conclusions were obtained.(1) A theoretical equation for the amplitude decrease in the 1 st step of bending vibration was derived.(2) Parameters of amplitude decrease ; Δd1, Δd2 increase and those of duration period ; S1, S2 decrease with the increase of weft yarn density. Existence of the effect of yarn contacting length and contacting pressure on bending vibration was clearly shown.(3) Effect of twist was different with yarn type ; filament or spun, the effect on bending vibration was large.Existence of contacting factor was shown.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, 目的 : 最終的には衣服の外観美を客観評価するため, 布の曲げ変形に基づく振動現象について詳細に検討し, 振動減衰特性を表す振動パラメータを見出す.成果 : (1) 布の振動減衰挙動は布の粘弾性抵抗係数が無視でき, 繊維素材, 糸や布の構造にかかわらず, 減衰が初期振幅の約1/5に至るまでは減衰曲線は2段階の直線になる. (2) 振幅が小さい場合, 布の内部摩擦は糸―糸間および繊維―繊維間の摩擦の2つに分けられる. (3) 布の曲げ振動パラメータのうち, 第1段直線部の振幅減衰量△d1は布の純曲げ特性および糸―糸間の摩擦に関連している.第2段直線部の振幅減衰量△d2は糸の構造および繊維―繊維間の摩擦に関連している.第1段階の振動持続時間S1は減衰の主要因摩擦項が糸―糸間の摩擦から繊維―繊維間の摩擦に移行する点を表し, 布の組織や糸一糸間の接触圧力に関連している.布の全体的な曲げ振動持続時間S2は布の純曲げ特性と繊維の集合構造に関連している.In order to evaluate beautiful appearance of clothes objectively at the final end, vibrational phenomena of fabric based on bending deformation are investigated precisely and vibrational parameters which show features of vibrational damping properties of fabric are proposed. Following conclusions were obtained : Bending vibration of fabric damped linearly with time in two steps irrespective of fiber material and yarn and/or fabric structure until the amplitude becomes approximately 1/5 of the initial amplitude. This means viscoelastic effect in the fabric is neglected in the bending vibration. Frictional effect in the fabric can be divided into two parts, namely, inter-yarn friction and inter-fiber friction. In the proposed vibrational parameters, amplitude decreaseand the 1st linear-line, Δ d1 is related to pure bending property and inter-yarn friction. Amplitude decrease at the 2nd linear-line, Δ d2 is concerned with yarn structure and inter-fiber friction. Vibration duration time at the 1st step, S1 is the point at which major frictional effect changes from inter-yarnto inter-fiber friction.Total vibration duration time, S2 is related to pure bending property and fiber assembly structure.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, 目的 繊維集合体の一つである布の圧縮特性について, 前報で提案した圧縮過程の3段階モデルにおける各段階のパラメータの意味を明確化し, これらのパラメータの実用性を検討するため, 布の圧縮実験で求めたパラメータにより, 布の分類を行う.成果 (1) 布表面を圧縮する場合には表面繊維の曲げ形式により, 布の圧縮曲線の初期部分から得た回帰係数b1はスパンあるいはフィラメントかの, 糸構造と関連している.経験式として, 圧縮第2段階曲線の回帰方程式y=a2・eb2・x+c2を提出し, 圧縮―変形曲線がこの経験式に極めて近似することを確認できた.この経験式の係数b2は圧縮変形量と関連があり, c2は圧縮線形性LCと関連がある.布圧縮の第3段階曲線の回帰係数b3は布を構成する繊維素材の圧縮特性と関連している. (2) 圧縮の各段階で得られたパラメータを用いてクラスタ分析を行うことにより, 布の分類が明確化された.スパンとフィラメントとの糸構造別に分類する場合にはb1, b2, LCが最も適切である.ウール, シルク, ポリエステルとコットンの素材別の布を分類する場合にはb2, b3, RCが最も適切である. In order to explain mechanical parameters of fabric compressional property more precisely, which were proposed in the former paper, physical meaning of those parameters was made clear. Regression constant; b1, which is obtained from 1st step of compressional curve and means initial compressional modulus of fabric, is related to yarn structure such as spun or filament. New regression equation; y=a2·exp (b2·x) +c2, is proposed for the 2nd step of compressional curve. This equation agrees better with experimental data than the former equation in which there is no auxiliary term c2. b2 is related to the amount of compressional deformation and means hardness in compression because of friction between fibers. c2 means linearity in semilogarithm coordinates and is connected with the conventional compressional parameter; LC (linearity). Regression constant; b3, which is obtained from 3rd step of compressional curve and means initial elastic modulus of fiber in lateral compression, is related to fiber material. The method of cluster analysis is carried out using three compressional parameters. For the purpose of dividing spun yarn fabrics and filament yarn fabrics, a combination of compressional parameters; b1, b2 and LC, is the best. In order to divide wool, silk, polyester and cotton fabrics, a combination of compressional parameters; b1, b3 and RC, is the best.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, 目的 織物の圧縮特性において, 圧力の増加によって織物と加圧板との間の接触状態がいかに変化するかを光学顕微鏡によって観測し, すでに提案している圧縮過程3段階分割仮説の正当性を確認する.成果 布を圧縮する場合, 布と加圧板との接触繊維本数および接触繊維面積の変化は, 布圧縮過程の3段階と極めてよく対応する.圧力P50gf/cm2の三つの圧力範囲をおのおの圧縮の第1, 第2, 第3段階と考えることができる.In order to confirm the three step division of fabric compressional process reported previously, contacting surface shapes of weave were observed precisely by microscope and following conclusions were obtained. The number of contacting fiber increased with pressure. As the increase was large at pressureP=1 to 50 gf/cm2and small atP>50 gf/cm2, P=50 gf/cm2could be a boundary of 2nd and 3rd step of compressional process. Contacting surface area of weave increased with pressure, and the tendency of increase agreed well with the three step division of fabric compressional process. The pressure ranges : P50 gf/cm2are considered to be 1st, 2nd and 3rd step of compressional process, respectively. The actual pressure q was quite larger than pressure P. q differs with each fabric samples.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, 目的 かぎ針編地の代表である細編地で生じるカール現象について, その原因と考えられる弾性回復トルクに関する定量的知見を得る.成果 編地のカールは編むという基本操作時の糸の張力に比例する.この原因は, 糸の張力が大きいほど編地の基本ループが短くなり, 単位長さ当たりの弾性回復トルクが増大するからである.また, 編地のカールはかぎ針の太さに逆比例する.この原因は, 針の太さが大きいほど編地の基本ループが長くなり, 単位長さ当たりの弾性回復トルクが減少するからである.前報で提案した, かぎ針編地の基本操作に関する理論の正当性が証明された. (平成4年11月9日受理) (平成5年11月2日審査終了) In order to study the curling behavior of croched fabric quantitatively, yarn tension and thickness of crochet-hook are changed and those effects on loop length and curvature of the croched fabric are investigated. Following results were obtained. Curling behavior of croched fabric is in proportion to yarn tension at basic operation of knitting. This is because that the larger the yarn tension, the shorter the unit loop length, and the recovery elastic torque per unit length becomes larger. Curling behavior of croched fabric is inversely proportional to thickness of croched-hook. This is because that the bigger the thickness, the longer the unit loop length, and the recovery elastic torque per unit length becomes smaller. Theory concerning basic operation of croched fabric proposed in the former paper8 is proved to be valid. (Received November 9, 1992) (Accepted for Publication November 2, 1993)

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, 目的 布の圧縮特性についてより詳細で正確な情報を得るため, 圧縮曲線の形状に関する特性値を見出す.成果 (1) 布の圧縮曲線と回復曲線はおのおの三つの段階に分けられることが判明した.圧縮の第1, 第3段階と回復の第1段階の曲線は直線で近似できる.圧縮の第2段階と回復の第2段階の曲線は, 指数曲線で近似できる.回復の第3段階は瞬間回復できない領域である.(2) 圧縮の第2段階の近似曲線の回帰定数は布の構造, 繊維, 糸の摩擦特性と関連している.回復過程の第2段階の近似曲線の回帰定数は布中の糸や繊維が互いの摩擦抵抗を克服する回復性と関連している.この二つの回帰定数は圧縮実験曲線の形状と最も強く関連している圧縮特性値である.(3) 圧縮特性値の主成分分析の結果によると, 第1, 第2主成分は圧縮特性の大部分の情報を含んでいる.第1主成分は布の圧縮される領域の変形量や布の柔らかさと関連している.第2主成分は布の圧縮弾性率や回復性と関連している.As the first step in a series of studies on the compressibility of fiber assemblies, here were sought a small number of parameters which can represent reasonably the compression and decompression (recovery) curves of fabrics. The followings were obtained : the compression has three characteristic stages, in the first and third of which linear approximations are valid, and in the second of which exponential ones valid ; in the recovery, the stress decays first linearly and then exponentially to arrive finally at zero leaving a strain which does not vanish instantaneously ; the increasing rate of stress in the second stage of compression may be related to fabric structure, friction between fibers and/or yarns ; the decreasing rate in the second region of recovery may be related to ability with which fibers and yarns can regain their original states against the mutual frictional restraint ; these two rates play dominant roles in the whole process. An analysis of principal component, which was done on the parameters characterizing these stages for various sample fabrics, suggests that the two principal components are representative of almost all information on the compressibility, and that first of them may be related to the compressive compliance and softness, and the second to the compressive rigidity and recoverablity.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, Improved equations for evaluating primary hands of Futon cloth objectively (DM-02) were derived by using the mechanical characteristics of compression measured at high sensitivity conditions and by adding the subjective evaluation of retailer. This equation showed higher accuracy and smaller errors than the former equations. The equation for evaluating Total Hand Value of Futon cloth objectively (DM-11) was also derived from seven parameters, namely, five primary hands, air resistance and water regain by the stepwise block residual regression method. Square term of each parameter was included in each block to find out the optimum range of those parameters. The equation obtained showed high accuracy, small errors and usefulness in practical application. 目的 ふとん地の風合いを客観評価すべく, 熟練者によって定義されたふとん地基本風合いおよびふとん地の総合的な品質を表す総合風合いを布の力学特性値から算出する客観評価法を開発する.成果 圧縮特性に高感度条件の力学特性値を用い, また主観評価に小売り担当者の判定を加えることにより, 前報に比べてより回帰精度が高く, 誤差の小さな基本風合い客観評価式 (DM-02) を誘導できた.また本式で算出する基本風合いに保温性に対応する量として通気抵抗を, および快適性に対応する量として水分率を加え, これらの2乗の値も変数として, 各基本風合いおよび物性値ごとのブロック間残差回帰方式で熟練者の主観評価値と回帰することにより, 回帰精度が高く, 誤差の小さな総合風合い客観評価式 (DM-11) を誘導できた.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to find out the characteristics of hand evaluation of Futon cloth by consumers, objective evaluation equations were derived from subjective evaluation of consumers and the results were compared with those of experts. Following conclusions were obtained. Subjective evaluation of primary hand and Total Hand Value by consumers shows a little larger variation between each panel than that by experts. However, mean value of each primary hand and Total Hand Value by consumers agrees well with that by experts. Therefore, the objective evaluation equations derived from subjective evaluation of experts can be used widely for objective evaluation of primary hand and Total Hand Value (DM-02, DM-11, respectively) of Futon cloth. Although experts considers fabric shear property firstly for evaluating “SOFUTOSA”, consumers imagine fabric bending property. For the evaluation of Total Hand Value, experts think the degree of “SOFUTOSA” first of all, however, consumers judge the degree of “GASATSUKI”. 目的 消費者による基本風合いおよび総合風合いの主観評価を基に風合い客観評価式を誘導し, 熟練者による結果と比較・検討することにより, 消費者の風合い評価の特徴を見い出す.成果 (1) 消費者による基本風合い, 総合風合いの主観評価は熟練者相互よりも消費者相互の方が相関が低く, 熟練者の評価の方が若干信頼性が高い. (2) ふとん地の基本風合い, 総合風合いに対する消費者の主観評価の平均値は熟練者の平均値と一致しており, ふとん地の基本風合いおよび総合風合い客観評価には, 熟練者の主観評価を基に誘導された客観評価式 (おのおのDM-02, DM-11) を用いることができる. (3) 基本風合い「ソフトさ」の評価には, 熟練者はせん断特性を第一義的に考えているが, 消費者は曲げ特性を考えている. (4) ふとん地の風合い評価においては, 熟練者は「ソフトさ」の強弱が, 消費者では「がさつき」の強弱が最重要決定要因である.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to study the relationship between fabric shear and bending vibrational properties and beautiful appearance of clothes, correlation coefficients between those characteristic values and the score of beautiful appearance of moving flared skirt obtained subjectively were calculated. If the damping ratio of fabric shear vibration was smaller, the skirt was evaluated to be more beautiful. If the damping ratio of fabric bending vibration at small curvature (curved with large radius of curvature) was smaller, the skirt was evaluated to be more beautiful. There was no good correlation between the beautifulness of moving skirt and fabric weight, drape coefficient, SHINAYAKASA, and Total Hand Value.目的 : 布のせん断および曲げ振動特性から得られる特性値と, 主観評価によって求めた衣服の外観の美との関連を見い出し, 衣服の動的ドレープ挙動の美しさに寄与する要因を明らかにする.成果 : フレアスカニトの回転時の揺動の美は, 布のせん断振動特性および曲げ振動特性と多いに関連がある.せん断振動特性との関連では, せん断角の大小によらず, 振動の減衰率が小さい (よく振動する) ほど, スカートはより美しいと判定された.曲げ振動特性との関連では, 曲率の小さな領域 (大きな湾曲部) における減衰率が小さい (よく振動する) ほど, スカートはより美しいと判定された.布の自重, SHINAYAKASA, THV, ドレープ係数などとスカートの美との相関は小さかった.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, 新合繊ポリエステル織物の基本力学的特性および風合いの各種仕上工程による変化を追跡するため, 川端および丹羽らによる風合い客観評価法を用いて検討した.生機布の力学特性や風合いは極めて硬いが, 次のリラックス工程で極端に柔らかくなる.これは糊抜き効果, 繊維の収縮効果および内部残留応力の緩和効果による.リラックス効果が強力すぎる場合には, 次の熱セット工程で若干硬くなることがある.続く減量加工工程では, 八分割繊維が分割されるため繊維間や糸間に有効隙間が発生し, さらにソフトになるが, 染色工程や起毛工程の影響は小さい.リラックス工程では布は厚く重くなるが, 減量加工工程では薄く軽くなる.基本風合いを変数とする判別分析により, シルキーおよびピーチスキン調新合繊織物特有な風合いゾーンのあることが示された.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to evaluate fabric hand of Futon cloth objectively, primary hands for Futon cloth were selected and defined from the opinions of experts who were engaged in allied industry and distribution of Futon cloth . Five primary hands such as “SOFUTOSA”, “KOSHI-F”, “NUMERI-F”, “FUKURAMI” and “GASATSUKI” were defined for Futon cloth and they could explain 83% of the descriptions used for hand evaluation. Objective evaluation equation (DM-01) of Futon cloth from the basic mechanical characteristics of those was developed by the stepwise block residual regression method with high accuracy and small errors. Four principal components such as fabic stiffness, fabric structure, fabric softness and surface roughness were introduced from the basic mechanical characteristics of Futon cloth. 目的 ふとん地の風合いを客観評価すべく, ふとん地に長年接してきた熟練者から基本風合い用語を抽出し, 布の基本力学的特性値より算出する客観評価法の開発を試みる.成果 ふとん地の基本風合いとして, “ソフトさ”, “こし-F”, “ぬめり-F”, “ふくらみ”, “がさつき” の5個を定義することができ, 熟練者の主観評価値と力学特性値とをブロック間残差回帰方式で回帰することにより, 回帰精度が高く, 回帰誤差の小さな基本風合い客観評価式 (DM-01) を導くことができた.ふとん地の力学特性値に対して主成分分析を行ったところ, その75%を説明可能な, 布の剛さ, 構造, 柔らかさ, 表面粗さと解釈される4個の主成分が抽出された.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to study basic phenomenon of dynamic drape of filament weaves, dependency of fabric tension on vibrational property of the weaves based on shear deformation was investigated in detail in relation to shear property of the weaves. It was shown that the vibration damped linearly with time in the small shear deformation region (

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, In order to study basic phenomenon of dynamic drape of filament weaves, damping behavior of fabric shear vibration in the large shear deformation region (>0.035rad); that is, the region in which the vibration damped non-linearly with time, was investigated in detail in relation to shear property of the fabric. It was shown that the non-linearity increased with the shear angle and the increase was mainly caused by the increase of shear hysteresis. The damping behavior of silk filament weaves was typed in four patterns and the patterns corresponded well with the four combinations of basic mechanical parameters of shear property; G and 2HG, in the degree of changes with shear angle, obtained by KES system. Bending vibration behavior changed less than the shear vibration for four typed silk fabrics, and it was suggested that dynamic drape behavior of _??_ clothes was more related with shear property than bending property. 目的 フィラメント織物のせん断変形に基づく揺動振動特性について, せん断角の大きな (>0.035rad) 領域における減衰挙動をせん断特性との関連で検討し, 動的ドレープ挙動の基礎知見を得る.成果 振動の非直線性はせん断角が大きいほど顕著であり, これは主にヒステレシス変化によるものである.減衰率のせん断角依存性から, 絹フィラメント織物の減衰挙動は4種のパターンに分類でき, これらはKESシステムで得られる力学パラメータ, G, 2HGのせん断角による変化率の大小の組み合わせで区別される分類と対応する.衣服の動的ドレープ挙動には曲げ振動特性よりもせん断振動特性の方が効いていると思われる.

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, Basic mechanical properties and hand of fabric were pursued through a finishing process of the fabric woven from New Zealand Crossbred wool yarns by objective evaluation method using KES-FB system and following results were obtained. The fabric sampled from off loom showed hard and became harder after singeing stage intensile, bending, shearing and compressional properties. However, the fabric became soft greatly by the next crabbing-scouring stages. The effect of the subsequent dyeing, drying, cropping, paper pressing and blowing (decatizing) stages on the mechanical properties were small. Although primary hand values and total hand value also changed remarkably by the singeing stage, they became moderate and high rank respectively by the next crabbing-scouring stage. The large change by the singeing stage was due to the cinders which remained between fibers and they were removed completely by the next crabbing-scouring stage. Surface characteristics did not correspond well with surface “prickliness”. 目的 繊維径の太いニュージーランド産のクロスブレッドウールを用いた布の仕上処理工程の各種段階より採取した試料について, 布の力学特性及び風合いの変化を, KES-FBシステムを用いた客観評価法により追跡する.成果 力学特性では, 引っ張り, 曲げ, せん断及び圧縮の全ての特性において, 織り下ろし状態では剛く, 次の毛焼工程では更に剛くなるが, 次の煮絨, 洗絨工程では大幅に柔らかくなり, その後の染色, 乾燥, せん毛, ペーパープレス及び蒸絨工程の影響は小さいことが明らかとなった.基本風合いや総合風合いも毛焼工程によって大きく変化し, KOSHIやHARIは高く, FUKURAMIは低くなり, THVも低下するが, 次の煮絨洗絨工程によって基本風合いは適度の値となり, THVも向上することが分かった.これら力学特性や風合いが毛焼工程によって大きく変化する原因は繊維間や糸間に残存する燃えかすであり, これは後の工程で容易に除去されるため, 最終製品には全く影響を及ぼさないことが示された.布表面の “ちくちく感” は表面特性値とはあまり対応しなかった.