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In the textile industry, various 3D printing technologies are used in fashion design and functional clothing (protective, military and sportswear, including wearable electronics), where the textile substrate is functionalized using additive technology. 3D printing allows the personalization of the product, which translates in the apparel industry in the production of special clothing or the customized production of clothing parts with additional functions at a more rational cost. In our research, we developed and investigated textiles with enhanced protective properties produced by direct 3D polymer printing on fabrics. Twelve woven fabrics were produced in sateen, twill and hopsack with two different weft yarns and in two weft densities. A preliminary T-peel test was used to determine the optimal fabric structure that would ensure maximum adhesion for direct 3D printing of thermoplastic materials on fabric. 3D objects were printed on textile substrates using fused deposition modeling (FDM) technology and thermoplastic acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and polylactic acid (PLA) filaments. The main objective was to develop functional textiles with improved protective properties. The results of the physical-mechanical and permeability properties of the functional textiles indicate a promising increase in abrasion resistance by at least 70%, although some other properties deteriorate.

The double-weave structure of a fabric allows for the use of different materials and weave structures for the upper and lower layer, which can be advantageous in the functionalization of 3D printed textiles. Therefore, the aim of this research was to investigate the influence of simple and double-weave structures on the adhesion of 3D printed fabrics. From this perspective, we investigated the influence of different twill derivates and weft densities on the adhesion force. We produced fabrics specifically for this study and printed them with a polylactic acid filament using Fused Deposition Modeling technology. The T-peel test was performed to measure the adhesion, and the results were statistically analyzed. A morphological study of the surfaces and cross-sections of the 3D printed fabrics helped us interpret the results. We found that adhesion was higher for double fabrics when printed with a smaller z-distance, where the molten polymer reached the lower layer of the fabric and adhered to it. The opposite was confirmed when printing with a larger z-distance, where adhesion was higher for simple fabrics. Both weave and density had a significant effect on adhesion in all cases. Surprisingly, different twill derivatives generally had a greater influence on adhesion than density.

The study investigated how certain design parameters affect the permeability properties of jacquard fabrics. Six woven samples were made on the same cotton warp and with the same loom setting. The fabrics were made from two different types of weft yarns (cotton and Lyocell Clima), in two different pattern sizes (with larger and smaller monochrome areas), and two groups of double twill weaves (self-stitched double cloth, interchanging double cloth). We proved the importance of the size and distribution of the pattern/motif, the type of weave and the type of yarns used in the jacquard fabrics and the influence they have on the permeability properties in close relation to the aesthetic function. All patterns with interchanging double weave have significantly higher air permeability than patterns with self-stitched weave. For thermal conductivity, the influence of the raw material and the size of the pattern/motif is obvious. For fabrics with patterns with larger geometric areas, where the presence of weft threads on the surface is greater, the thermal conductivity is higher. The pattern size, on the other hand, does not affect the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), unlike the raw material from which it is made.

In the last decades the media have highlighted the ozone depletion as major environmental problem resulting in an increase in ultraviolet radiation (UVR) reaching the earth's surface. Besides the beneficial effects of human exposure to UVR, this radiation is capable of causing damage to human population. The healthy lifestyle is becoming widely accepted by the public, and the UV protection provided by clothing becomes the significant subject of interest of the producers and consumers of textile fabrics. Natural cellulose fibres are commonly used in summer clothing due to their excellent comfort properties. However, these fibres have very poor UV protection ability. In this project, the UV protection property of textile fabrics made of natural and regenerated cellulose fibres have been compared and analysed in order to highlight the potential of hemp fibre for the development of more sustainable and healthy functionalized (UV protective) textile products. A group of homogeneous and blended cellulose textile fabrics were manufactured in a knitwear factory, evaluated in terms of the structure, and spectrophotometrically assessed to indicate their UV protection ability. The knitted fabrics merited sun protection ratings of “good” for pure hemp, through “very good” for viscose containing fabrics to ”excellent” UV protection category for cotton based fabrics. Relatively high values of the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) of the cellulose materials resulted from the interaction of fibre type, yarn geometry, fabric properties and common processing techniques. The increased UVR transparency of the pure hemp fabric, which resulted from hemp elasticity limitations, overcame by blending with other softer and more elastic cellulose fibres (cotton, viscose). The engineering approach proposed in this study was confirmed as an effective way to create more sustainable (more sustainable resource, pollution prevention, energy and cost savings) textile products with high level of UV protection at the knitting production stage avoiding the use of any additional mechanical and chemical treatments. These results revealed that the future application of hemp fibres in textile products with high added-value are promising. A co-ordinated effort of different subjects of the agro- and textile-industry production chain need to continue so as to overcome the limitations associated with hemp production and fibres properties.

The aim of this research was to investigate the possibilities of producing comfort hemp containing textile fabrics by assembling a pure hemp yarn with other-fibre containing yarn. The plain knitted fabrics were produced from two-assembled hemp and three variants of cotton yarns which differed in twist level, all having the same linear density. The transport properties (air permeability, water vapour permeability and thermal resistance) of the hemp-based knitted fabrics were quantitatively analysed. The results obtained demonstrated that the introduction of cotton into hemp-based textiles reduces air and water vapour permeability with the downward trend in thermal resistance. The extent to which the transport properties varied among the hemp/cotton knitted fabrics was dependent on the twist intensity of the cotton yarns. Therefore, the yarn assembling technique is an effective way not only to combine different fibre properties but to take advantage of intrinsic properties of component yarns.

Elasticity and recovery are important for clothing comfort, especially in the manufacture of apparel and sportswear. Recently, yarns containing PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), which are able to develop good elastic properties with high recovery after a finishing process (e.g., thermal treatment), have been used for this purpose. The aim of this work is to give a comprehensive overview of the use of PBT yarns in woven structure, with the aim of improving the elastic properties of cotton-like fabrics. The experimental part was divided into three main sequences to investigate the fabric properties (physical, elastic, UPF, comfort) influenced by (1) PBT-containing yarn structure, (2) weave and fabric structure (basic weaves and complex weaves) with PBT in weft direction, and (3) processing sequence-thermal treatment of PBT yarns or fabrics after weaving. According to the results, PBT-containing yarns have great potential for the production of lightweight elastic fabrics. The advantages of improving the elastic properties of fabrics by incorporating a relatively small amount of PBT yarns into the fabric only in certain areas, thereby minimally affecting the production costs, are demonstrated by a product with partially elastic areas obtained after thermal treatment., Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey (TUBITAK)Turkiye Bilimsel ve Teknolojik Arastirma Kurumu (TUBITAK); Slovenian Research Agency (ARRS)Slovenian Research Agency - Slovenia [BI-TR/15-17-006]; Slovenian Research AgencySlovenian Research Agency - Slovenia [P2-0213], This research was funded by Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey (TUB.ITAK) and Slovenian Research Agency (ARRS) within bilateral project (Project number: BI-TR/15-17-006). This work was cofounded by the Slovenian Research Agency (Program P2-0213 Textiles and Ecology).

3D printing is used to produce individual objects or to print on different substrates to produce multi-component products. In the textile industry, we encounter various 3D printing technologies in fashion design, functional apparel manufacturing (protective, military, sports, etc.), including wearable electronics, where textile material is functionalized. 3D printing enables the personalization of the product, which in the apparel industry can be transformed into the production of clothing or parts of clothing or custom accessories. Additive technology allows a more rational use of the material than traditional technologies. In the textile industry we meet different uses of it, one is the printing of flexible structures based on rigid materials, another is the printing with flexible materials and the third is the printing directly on textile substrate. All rigid, hard and soft or flexible materials can be integrated into the final design using 3D printing directly on the textile substrate. We speak of so-called multi-material objects and systems, which have many advantages, mainly in the increasing customization and functionalization of textiles or clothing. The article gives a broader overview of 3D printing on textiles and focuses mainly on the influence of different parameters of printing and woven fabric properties on the adhesion of 3D printed objects on the textile substrate. In our research we investigated the influence of twill weave and its derivate as well as different weft densities of the woven fabric on the adhesion of printed objects on textile substrate. Therefore, five samples of twill polyester/cotton fabrics were woven and their physical properties measured for this research. 3D objects were printed on textile substrates using the extrusion based additive manufacturing technique with polylactic acid (PLA) filament. Preliminary tests were carried out to define printing parameters and different methods of attaching the fabric to a printing bed were tested. T - Peel adhesion tests were performed on the Instron dynamometer to measure the adhesion between 3D printed objects and textile substrates.

17th World Textile Conference of the Association-of-Universities-for-Textiles (AUTEX) - Shaping the Future of Textiles -- MAY 29-31, 2017 -- GREECE, WOS: 000417214900109, Studies in the field of elasticised woven fabrics made of Co/PBT yarns indicate great potential of PBT use in woven fabrics. Weaving experiments demonstrate that elasticity of Co/PBT fabrics gained after treatment depends not only on woven fabric settings but also on onloom settings. Therefore, it is difficult to predict precisely the degree of shrinkage of the Co/PBT fabric after treatment. Six samples of woven fabrics were produced, three samples with the pretreated core spun Co/PBT weft, each in a different weave. Other three samples were woven with untreated core spun Co/PBT weft, in the same weaves and afterwards the samples were treated. The results indicated big differences between samples with pre-treated Co/PBT yarns in weft direction and samples treated after weaving., Assoc Univ Textiles, project entitled "Production of terry fabrics with improved elasticity and product from them" [BI-TR/17-17-006]; national research agency ARRS; national research agency TUBITAK, The paper is a part of research bilateral project no. BI-TR/17-17-006 entitled "Production of terry fabrics with improved elasticity and product from them", between Slovenia and Turkey and supported by national research agencies ARRS and TUBITAK.

Moisture management is a complicated process which is known to be influenced by a variety of fabric characteristics such as fibre nature (hydrophilic or hydrophobic), porosity and thickness. There are different aspects of the moisture management properties of textile materials since water transport in textile materials can be in the form of liquid and vapour. The ability of textile materials to transfer water vapour allows the human body to keep thermal balance due to evaporation. With stronger physical activity of a person when the body produces a large amount of heat, the skin perspiration increases (in order to regulate the body temperature) and liquid sweat should be taken from the skin, otherwise it will worsen the sense of comfort. The aim of this research was to investigate the factors influencing moisture management properties of plain knitted fabrics at the three scale levels, i.e., microscopic (fibre type), mesoscopic (yarn geometry) and macroscopic (fabric porosity) levels. Plain knitted fabrics were produced from the two-assembled hemp, cotton and viscose yarns under controlled conditions so as to be comparable in basic construction characteristics, but varying in yarns geometry. Evaporative resistance test reflecting vapour transport and water distribution test reflecting liquid transport in the knitted fabrics were conducted. To determine the statistical importance of the results, analysis of variance (ANOVA) was applied. As a consequence of the geometry and deformation behaviour of the fibres used and spinning techniques applied, the yarns differed in both packing density and surface geometry, thus determining the pore distribution. Due to loose structure of the cotton yarn, the cotton knitted fabric was characterised by the lowest free open surface (macroporosity) exhibiting the lowest both water vapour and liquid permeability. Although having the highest macroporosity, the water vapour and liquid transport capability of the hemp knitted fabric was lower than that of the viscose knit. The best moisture management properties of the viscose knitted fabric were resulted from viscose affinity for water absorption and increased surface area of the viscose yarn. The results obtained proved that variations in any of the hierarchical structure levels can modify moisture transport ability of textile fabrics. Therefore, the moisture management properties of textile materials can be guided in a desired direction by the appropriate selection of fibres and careful design of yarn structure. Cilj ovog rada je bio karakterizacija glatkih pletenina u pogledu sposobnosti upravljanja vlagom (propuštanja vodene pare i znoja) uzimajući u obzir faktore na mikroskopskom (vlakna), mezoskopskom (pređa) i makroskopskom (pletenina) nivou. U tu svrhu su, polazeći od pređa izrađenih od prirodnih i regenerisanih celuloznih vlakana, u kontrolisanim uslovima proizvedene glatke DL pletenine koje su podvrgnute ispitivanju propustljivosti vodene pare i tečnosti. Dobijeni rezultati ukazali su na kompleksan uticaj hijerarhijske strukture tekstilnog materijala na njegovu sposobnost upravljanja tečnostima. Pokazalo se da pored distribucije pora u pleteninama, koja je u okviru eksperimentalnog materijala bila uslovljena deformacionim svojstvima vlakana i primenjenim tehnikama predenja, propustljivost vodene pare može biti modifikovana geometrijom površine pređe, dok morfologija vlakana može da modifikuje propustljivost tečnosti.

The operation of folding provides a complex yarn differing to an appreciable degree from single components. Although the characteristics of folded yarns have been the subject of many investigations, there is a serious lack of study concerned with the influence of yarn folding on comfort properties of clothing materials. Therefore, this study focused on the effect of yarn folding on both thermal and tactile comfort of plain knitted fabrics. In addition to the structural characteristics of the yarns and knitted fabrics, the transport properties, deformation behavior and surface properties of the knitted fabrics were investigated. The results obtained indicated that the influence of yarn folding on thermal and tactile comfort properties of clothing materials is mainly positive. These effects were caused by the modification of yarn packing density which further influenced the air volume distribution as well as the fiber and yarn mobility within the fabric.

The comfort characteristics of fabrics (especially thermal insulation and permeability properties) are closely associated with the changes in their structural parameters. The reaction of a stretchable fabric, either after the finishing process or after a mechanical deformation, is higher than the reaction of conventional fabrics. The reaction after the finishing process is usually expressed in terms of density, thickness or mass increase, and in dimensional changes. The structural changes influence thermal insulation and water vapor permeability properties, which are the most important properties associated with the comfort of textiles. This paper focuses on the impact of the pre-finishing process on the comfort characteristics of pure cotton fabrics and of cotton fabrics with elastane in the weft direction in plain and twill weave. The results indicate that after the pre-finishing process (scouring/bleaching) for the analyzed fabrics, water vapor resistance and thermal resistance decrease. These decreases occur due to the structural changes inside the fabrics (warp yarn density and mass increase, whereas thickness decreases).

This research is focused on the influence of constructional parameters such as the type of weave and density on deformability of pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics. In the research, two basic weaves were used: the plain and twill weave without (pure cotton) and with 6.2 percent of elastane in the weft direction. The density of the warp yarns was before bleaching 22yarns/cm and after end treatment (bleaching) from 24 to 31 yarns/cm. The chosen densities in the weft direction were 17 and 20 yarns/cm. The fabrics were cyclically loaded with maximum load 17.66 N. The non-recoverable deformation was measured after 30 seconds of relaxation after the fourth cycle of loading, according to ASTM D 3107–75. The research results show that elastane incorporation significantly decreased the non-recoverable deformation after loading. In the case of the twill weave, the decrease of non-recoverable deformation was from around 20% – twill without elastane to around 5% – twill with elastane – fabrics 7B and 8B. The non-recoverable deformation level decrease with fabrics in plain weave was also significant (from around 24% – plain without elastane to around 12% – plain with elastane). From the results of non-recoverable deformation, it is clearly seen that the chosen type of weave, plain and twill, significantly influenced the non-recoverable deformation level. The increase of density in the weft direction from 17 yarns/cm to 20 yarns/cm for pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics insignificantly influenced the non-recoverable deformation level. This means that the density increase of 3 yarns/cm is too low to significantly influence the deformability of pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics.