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The sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the different steps, starting from material selection, extraction, chemical characterization, biological activity evaluation, and environmental impact calculation, was adopted to obtain innovative, sustainable, and effective cosmetic raw materials from food waste. As case report, a supercritical CO2 extract obtained from wild-strawberry-processing waste after jam production (WSWSCO2 extract) was developed. The fatty acids profile of the waste material and WSWSCO2 extract was investigated via a GC–MS method, and mainly polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as linoleic and linolenic acids were detected. Furthermore, the ability of the WSWSCO2 extract to inhibit 5α-reductase type 1 expression in skin fibroblasts was assessed, confirming significant efficacy at the dose of 5 mg/mL. Finally, in view of the eco-sustainability approach, the environmental impact related to WSWSCO2 extract was calculated using a life cycle assessment (LCA) analytical approach, considering different parameters and indicators (e.g., carbon footprint) and verifying the eco-friendly approach in extract development and production. Although further research is needed, for example, to check the full composition of the extract and its effect on skin cells, these results suggest that the WSWSCO2 extract may represent an innovative and sustainable ingredient for cosmetic applications especially in topical preparation for the treatment of some androgenic-related discomfort, such as acne and androgenic alopecia, reflecting the potentiality of the holistic and pioneering approach related to ingredient development presented in this study for the cosmetic sector.

Secondary metabolites from the sawmill waste Picea abies bark were extracted using an innovative two-step extraction that includes a first step with supercritical CO2 (SCO2) and a second step using green solvents, namely ethanol, water, and water ethanol mixture. Maceration (M), ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE) and microwave assisted extraction (MAE) techniques were applied in the second step. A total of nineteen extract were obtained and yield were compared. Bark extracts were characterized by LC-DAD-MSn and classes of compounds were quantified as abietane derivatives, piceasides, flavonoids, and phenolics to compare different extractions. Obtained extracts were studied by in vitro assay to evaluate potential pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and cosmetic uses assessing the antioxidant activity as well as the inhibitory activity on target enzymes. Results show that the “smart extraction chain” is advantageous in term of yield of extraction and phytoconstituent concentration. SCO2 extract, presenting a unique composition with a large amount of abietane derivatives, exerted the best activity for amylase inhibition compared to the other extracts.

Products based on plants containing hydroxyanthracene derivatives (HADs)—such as Rheum, Cassia, and Aloe species—are widely used in food supplements or nutraceuticals due to their laxative effects. A more restricted control of HAD contents in food supplements has been implemented by EU Regulation 2021/468, in order to increase the safety of these preparations. Due to their toxicity, aloin A, aloin B, aloe emodin, emodin, and the synthetic derivative danthron have been listed as prohibited substances in food supplements, being tolerated in amounts < 1 mg kg−1 in marketed products. In this work, we report the development of a sensitive and fast LC–DAD–MS-based procedure for the determination of these five compounds in food supplements and plant materials or extracts. The entire procedure includes a simple sample preparation step, where target analytes are concentrated by means of solvent extraction and evaporative concentration (solid samples), or by lyophilisation (liquid samples). The average LOQ of 0.10 mg/L, LOD of 0.03 mg/L, accuracy, and precision with CVs below 12.72 were obtained for the studied analytes. This method is suitable for assessing the compliance of commercial products and raw materials with EU Regulation 2021/468. Furthermore, the proposed method can represent a starting point for the development of a unique and standardised analytical approach for the determination of other HADs under the attention of EU authorities.

In this work, the sawmill waste from Picea abies debarking was considered as source of valuable phytoconstituents. The extraction was performed using different ethanol/water mixtures, and characterization was obtained by LC-MSn. This latter revealed flavonoid glycosides, lignans, and procyanidins. Extraction with organic solvents (dichloromethane and methanol) and chromatographic separations of the obtained extracts by silica column followed by semi-preparative HPLC led to the isolation of polyphenols and terpenoids such as 21α-metoxy-serrat-14-en-3-one, 21α-hydroxy-serrat-14-en-3-one, pinoresinol, dehydroabietic acid, 15-hydroxy-dehydroabietic acid, 7-oxo-dehydroabietic acid, pimaric acid, 9β-pimara-7,15-dien-19-ol, 13-epi-manoyl oxide, taxifolin-3′-O-glucopyranoside, trans-astringin, and piceasides. Piceaside V and 9β-pimara-7-keto-19β-olide, two novel compounds identified for the first time in P. abies bark, were isolated, and their structures were elucidated using 1D and 2D NMR and MS techniques. The polyphenolic composition of the methanolic portion was also investigated using LC-MSn, and the piceaside content was estimated. To assess the antioxidant activity of main constituents, semi-preparative HPLC was performed on the methanolic extract, and the obtained fractions were assayed by using the DPPH test. Overall, this work shows the potential usefulness of P. abies bark as a source of valuable phytochemicals.

Larch (Larix decidua) bark is a sawmill waste, traditionally used for antiseptic, expectorant and dermatological (wound healing, eczema, psoriasis) purposes. In this work, we developed a food-grade dry larch bark extract (LBE) from sawmill by-products using hydro-alcoholic extraction. The antibacterial activity of LBE was evaluated against respiratory-tract pathogens, i.e., Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, Streptococcus pneumoniae, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Haemophilus influenza, and it was compared to that of grapefruit seed extract (GSE), a commercially available raw material commonly proposed as antibacterial ingredient for over-the-counter products. Procyanidins (PACs) and other polyphenols contents in LBE were determined by HPLC-FLD-MS and HPLC-DAD-MSn, respectively. The antimicrobial activity of LBE and GSE was assessed using the micro-plate dilution technique in concentration range of 2–200 µg/mL, and the safety of these dosages was assessed in cellular and animal models. LBE showed considerable contents of PACs (15% w/w; especially B-type) and other polyphenols (3.8% w/w), among which the characteristic spiropolyphenols larixinol and epilarixinol were identified, together with the flavonoids isoquercitrin and rutin, already reported as growth inhibitors of different respiratory-tract pathogens. LBE showed higher antimicrobial activity compared to GSE, demonstrated by a growth inhibition range of 10–40% towards five of six strains tested, compared to 10–15% of GSE. These results suggest that LBE may represent a natural and sustainable source of active compounds with antibacterial activity for pharmaceutical and nutraceutical applications.

The use of dietary supplements for the prevention and management of diseases associated with excess of lipids is spreading in Western countries. Supplements containing red yeast rice (RYR) and extracts from Berberis species, characterized, respectively, by the active compounds monacolin K (MK) and berberine (BBR), are sold in pharmacies as over the counter medicines (OTC) and in regular markets without the need of medical prescription and medical surveillance. However, MK is chemically identical to lovastatin, a drug commonly used to treat hypercholesterolemia, and is characterized by the same mechanism of action, pharmacokinetic profile and toxicity. On the other hand, although BBR-containing supplements are considered to be well-tolerated and safe, they frequently show poor standardization of active ingredients, and this could lead to lack of effects. In this work, with the aim to give an overview on the potency of RYR- and BBR-containing supplements available on the Italian market, we analyzed a pool of supplements bought from both local pharmacies and markets. Results confirm the data already published by other authors, showing scarce standardization of bioactives and discrepancy between the doses of bioactives reported by the manufacturers and the amounts resulting from analysis of the same products. Overall, our data represent a further proof that a strict legislation regulating the production and marketing of dietary supplements and a close monitoring of these products by food and drug regulatory organs is mandatory.

In the present study results related to the in vivo administration of Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NADES)-solubilized berberine are reported for the first time. NADES are mixtures of small natural compounds having a melting point significantly lower than that of any individual component. Such solvents have gained much attention of the scientific community in the green chemistry area, being considered useful alternatives to common organic solvents. NADES can be used also as administration vehicles, and this can be attractive for nutraceutical products when eutectics are formed with food grade ingredients. In this work, different NADES were prepared using mainly food grade constituents and were tested as solvents for the alkaloid berberine. Three selected NADES/berberine solutions and an aqueous suspension were orally administered to mice with in dose of 50 mg/Kg. Blood levels of berberine were measured by a LC-MS/MS method. The pharmacokinetic analysis revealed a 2–20 fold increase in blood concentration of NADES/berberine with significant changes in pharmacokinetic profile. Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents may thus be considered attractive solubilizing agents and may also play a role in the increase of absorption of poorly bioavailable natural products such as berberine.

Larix decidua bark is a waste of the timber industry and is widely diffused in Northern Italy. This material can be considered a good source of antioxidants and phytoconstituents with possible use in cosmetic or nutraceutical products. In this study, simple extraction of larch bark was performed using mixtures of ethanol/water. Furthermore, the phytochemical composition of larch bark extract was studied using LC-MSn methods and the main constituents were identified as flavonoids, spiro-polyphenols, and procyanidins. To confirm the identification by LC-MS semi-preparative HPLC was performed in order to isolate the main constituents and verify the structures by 1H-NMR. Antioxidant properties were studied using an in vitro approach combining DPPH assay and LC-MS in order to establish different roles of the various classes of phytochemicasl of the extract. DPPH activity of some of the isolated compounds was also assessed. The overall results indicate this waste material as a good source of antioxidant compounds, mainly procyanidins, whichresulted the most active constituents in the DPPH assay.

There is a need for innovation in plant-derived pharmaceuticals, food supplements and nutraceutical products regarding the use of more eco-sustainable solvents for their extraction. Furthermore, the poor oral bioavailability of several phytochemicals with health promoting effects stimulates the research in the field of pharmaceutical formulations. Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NADES) are formed by natural compounds, and can be considered as future solvents being especially useful for the preparation of nutraceuticals and food-grade extracts. In this paper various NADES were prepared using sugars, aminoacids and organic acids. Rutin (quercetin-3-O-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1→6))-β-d-glucopyranose) was used as a model compound to study NADES. Moreover, the effect of various eutectic mixtures on rutin’s water solubility was studied. Proline/glutamic acid (2:1) and proline/choline chloride (1:1) mixtures have a solubility comparable to ethanol. The proline/glutamic acid (2:1) eutectic containing rutin was used in a pharmacokinetic study in Balb/c mice while bioavailability was compared to oral dosing of water suspension. Plasmatic levels of rutin were measured by HPLC-MS/MS showing increased levels and longer period of rutin permanence in plasma of NADES treated animals. This paper reports the possible use of non-toxic NADES for pharmaceutical and nutraceutical preparations.