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Handmade carpets are of high importance in culture and art and play a vital role in economy. These days, there is a great desire to produce handmade carpets by using natural materials and methods. Traditionally, in the production of Iranian handmade carpets, natural raw materials such as dyes and fibers have been used. Natural fibers like wool, cotton, and silk cannot typically be dyed using only natural colors. They require metal salt compounds as mordants for improving their fastness properties, promoting dye adsorption on the fibers, and providing a range of colors. In order to prepare a completely eco-friendly carpet, metal and toxic mordants should be replaced by herbal ones. This paper attempts to investigate the red color gamut of wool yarns achieved through a clean dyeing method with madder using biomordants instead of metallic mordants. To this aim, various concentrations of madder were applied on wool yarns pre-mordanted with different concentrations of mineral mordants and biomordants. The results showed that, in addition to the light, wash, and rubbing fastness properties, biomordants were able to match the color gamut of wool yarns pre-mordanted with mineral mordants and dyed with madder. As a result, clean production of Iranian handmade carpets in the shade of red color is feasible. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Polyamide/elastane warp-knitted fabrics were separately dyed with gall oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier) and madder (Rubia tinctorum L.). Chromatographic and spectroscopic methods were used to analyze dyed warp-knitted fabrics. A reserved phase high-performance liquid chromatography with the diode-array detection (RP-HPLC-DAD) method was utilized to determine the components of dyes present in the dyed fabrics. Scanning electron microscopy-energy X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX) was utilized for morphological analysis. The undyed and dyed warp-knitted fabrics were characterized by FT-IR. The CIEL*a*b* values of the dyed polyamide-elastane warp-knitted fabrics were measured. Further, in physical testing, the pilling and abrasion resistance of raw and dyed fabrics were examined, and the water contact angle values of all fabrics were measured. Pilling test results were evaluated with a grade of 5 for all fabrics as the best score, and the resistance of fabrics to abrasion was very good. The formation of the fiber-metal-dye complex caused the fabric’s contact angle to drop, giving the fabric a hydrophilic character. The colorfastness characteristics of the dyed fabrics to light, rub, wash, and perspiration have been evaluated. The light fastness scores vary from 3 to 5, and they are satisfactory for using natural dyes to color textiles since they are in the good to moderate range. Overall, the dyed samples displayed a score of 5, which is excellent, on the Gray Scale for washing fastness.

Abstract One of the foremost challenges facing analysis of historical textiles is that the gold standard technique—high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)—is inherently destructive. This is especially problematic considering many historical textiles are exceptionally fragile, be it from age, poor care over time, etc. One proposed solution to this is the implementation of non-destructive, namely spectroscopic, techniques, such as diffuse reflectance (Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy, FORS). In this work, 204 well-provenanced red Norwich textiles were measured with FORS and analyzed to attempt to determine chromophore combinations used to dye the original textiles. To these ends, cluster analysis algorithms and spectroscopic domain knowledge were coupled with selective HPLC validation to assess overall ability of FORS to discern changes in chromophore combinations. It was found that the near infrared (NIR) region of the spectrum contained little meaningful information in multivariate space, while the VIS region, particularly 380–469 nm, showed a narrow visible region that was primarily responsible for clustering behavior that correlates with HPLC-validated samples. This indicates that FORS shows promise for discerning chromophores in textile swatches. Additionally, X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis was used to confirm that the observed FORS spectral inflection point shift in the 600 nm region did not correlate with the presence or type of mordant used when dying these textiles. From this work, three main conclusions can be drawn: (1) FORS adequately identifies visual infon, which shows reasonable correlation to HPLC-validated dye recipes, warranting further investigation, and indicating utility for cois or use for those with visual impairments; (2) XRF analysis confirms that the ~ 600 nm inflection point shift and mordant are not correlated when measuring dyed textiles, unless mordant is present below analytical detection limits or not present at all; (3) many documented structural-to-spectral relationships established in the conservation literature are too weak in dyed textiles for statistical analysis and, by extension, expert spectral identification.

Silk is a natural filament obtained from the Bombyx mori species of silkworm, with a fiber length of up to 3000 meters. During the Ottoman era in Edirne, sericulture and silk trade were important activities. To this end, silk factories, trade centers, and silk weaving schools were established, creating an important source of income for the people of Edirne. Edirne Red is a natural dye obtained from the Rubia Tinctorum L. plant and is part of the Ottoman Empire's heritage. This dye is resistant to sunlight and washing. It has been used in Turkish carpets, as well as in silk and cotton fabrics. The aim of this study is to bring together the importance of Edirne Red and silk in Edirne's history. For this purpose, 100% silk fabrics were dyed using madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) grown within the borders of Edirne province. The effects of dye ratios and auxiliary chemicals used on color and colorfastness were examined during the dyeing process. The color values of the fabrics were measured numerically in the CIEL*a*b* color space, and the washing and light fastness values of the dyed fabrics were also measured. Additionally, highperformance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analyses were performed on both the used madder and the dyed fabric. Based on the obtained data, the closest Edirne Red color was achieved by pre-mordanting fabric before dyeing and using ethanol as the dye solvent. Madder dye, successfully applied to silk fabrics under different conditions, has shown good results in terms of color yield and fastness properties.

The color red has a significant presence in cultures around the world. The organic dye madder, derived from plants, has been used throughout human civilization and remains an important natural dye. The research reviews five traditional madder dyeing techniques from China, Europe, Turkey, and Japan. The techniques are applied to cotton, linen, silk, and wool fabrics, and their similarities and differences are compared and analyzed. Additionally, the environmental sustainability, resource conservation, and process efficiency of these dyeing techniques are also evaluated in this article. The chromatic value of dyed textile color was tested by means of an American Hunterlab spectrophotometer, the influence of different dyeing techniques on textile color characteristics was analyzed, and the artistic features of textile color were analyzed from the perspective of visual art. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Today, reducing industrial pollution and using agricultural waste has become very important in preserving the environment and increasing productivity. The textile industry has a high level of pollution caused by wastewater containing dyes, and the use of natural dyes can overcome this weakness. To increase color strength, it is customary to use a mordant. The use of natural mordant can help to complete the sustainable cycle of the dyeing process. In This study extracts of madder and Oleaster or Russian Olive were utilized as natural dye and mordant, respectively. The phenolic content of Oleaster and its components (peel, seed, and flesh) were investigated and the results illustrated that the components of Oleaster, especially the peel and seeds, can be used as natural mordant as agricultural waste. The Fourier transform infrared spectral behavior of mordanted yarns were similar, which indicates the similar performance of different components of Oleaster. The color strength was studied in the presence of different mordants, and the results showed that the use of different components of the Oleaster can improve the color strength. Moreover, the dyed yarns were subjected to stability evaluations using standard methods. Washing, rubbing and light fastness of dyed yarns using mordant were good, good and moderate, respectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Todays, there is a strong tendency toward eco-dyeing with natural products. Several natural dyes have been used for dyeing protein fibers such as wool and silk fiber. This work examines the effect of metal mordant and biomordant on the color strength of dyed woolen yarn with madder, weld, and pomegranate natural dyes. The wool was mordanted with alum metallic and colorless mordant as well as walnut as colored and biomordant in pre-mordanting method. The madder, weld, and pomegranate natural dyes were extracted via ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE). The woolen yarn was dyed with concentrations of 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100% WOF of natural dyes. The absorption behavior and dyeing properties of natural dyes were explored by measuring the reflectance spectra and colorimetric parameter of dyed samples. The spectral derivative method was used to analyze the reflectance spectra. The color strength of natural dyes was evaluated by measuring the K/S as reflectance function at λ max (SWL), SUM, WSUM, FK, KSgm, KSf, SKSf, and the first-order derivative of K/S spectra. The colorimetric study indicated that the color of the dyed woolen yarn changed with alteration of the mordant. The statistical analysis revealed that there were significant correlations between the first-order derivative of K/S spectra d1(K/S) as a new color strength parameter and other color strength parameters such as SWL, SUM, WSUM, KSf, SKSf, and color strength parameters. The obtained results indicated that the color strength of the natural dye with alum as metal mordant was greater than that of walnut as colored and biomordant. The study of fastness properties of dyed samples with madder and weld natural dyes showed that the wash and light fastness of the sample with alum mordant were better than those of walnut mordant. However, the samples dyed with pomegranate natural dye indicated that the wash and light fastness were the same for alum and walnut mordants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigates the absorption behavior of natural dyes on silk fabric: madder roots (red dye) and amaltas (brown dye). The dyes were extracted under optimized conditions in an acidic medium. Binary mixtures of these dyes in different proportions were employed to develop various shades. This research work has explored the impact of single as well as binary mixture of chemical mordants on the dyeing behavior of natural dyes on silk. Al (Alum), iron (Fe), and tannic acid (T.A.) were used as pre- and post-mordants. Different concentrations of the dye mixtures were used to achieve different shades. The absorption behavior of the binary mixture of natural dyes was assessed using a spectra photometer Colori-spectra SF600. The study found that the highest color strength was achieved when an acidic extract with a table salt concentration of 2 g/100 mL was applied to silk fabric at 65 °C for 55 min and subjected to microwave treatment for 6 min. The study revealed excellent results for the selected binary mixtures of chemical mordants, such as (Al + Fe), (Al + T.A.), and (Fe + T.A.), in comparison by employing single mordants such as (Al, Fe, and T.A.). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper explores the use of portable Raman instruments to characterise natural dye lakes in paint mixtures, as an alternative approach to other Raman techniques (e.g. SERS). Raman spectroscopy has indeed been used extensively to study natural dyes as pure substances or as artistic pigments (dye lakes). However, the examination of these compounds with Raman spectroscopy is particularly challenging because of a strong fluorescence, a relatively weak Raman signal and their occurrence at low concentrations in artefacts. Because of these challenges, the typical way of analysing these materials is through either surface‐enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) or Fourier‐transform (FT) Raman spectroscopy, yet those approaches are not always desirable in art analysis, especially as they often require micro‐sampling. Therefore, this study explores the potential of using commercial mobile instruments, which would open the possibilities for direct in situ analysis. Two dispersive instruments, one using a fibre‐optic probe and a 1064‐nm excitation laser and the other using the subtracted‐shifted excitation (SSE) post‐processing algorithm, have been tested in their feasibility to characterise dye lakes. Raman spectra were acquired from a set of laboratory reproductions of paint mixtures prepared with a chosen set of common lakes, three red (brazilwood, cochineal and madder) and one yellow (weld), mixed with natural proteinaceous and polysaccharide binders. The feasibility has been evaluated, and it is shown that these lakes produce a detectable Raman signal, in spite of the strong interference of the painting support (parchment) and that the two instruments provide significantly different information. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hairy root culture of plants is a considerable way for the in vitro production of valuable metabolites because of genetic stability, rapid growth rate, biochemical stability, and high capacity in the synthesis of secondary metabolites. Alizarin is an anthraquinone derived from the roots of madder (Rubia tinctorum) and has been used since ancient times as a natural red dye and exhibits various pharmacological and biological activities including anticancer, antioxidant, and anti-microbial activity. The influence of two factors including explant (leaf, internode, cotyledon) and strains of A. rhizogenes (15834, 2656, MSU, R1000) was tested on hairy root production of madder. All explants produced hairy roots with acceptable frequencies but leaf explants produced the highest number of roots per explant followed by cotyledons. The highest root induction rate (100%) and the highest number of hairy roots per explant were obtained from leaf explants inoculated with 15834 and R 1000. Analysis of the PCR products showed the presence of a 403 bp amplicon related to the specific reproduction of rolA gene in transgenic roots. Anthraquinone production was documented in transgenic roots but there was a significant difference between roots from different bacterial strains. As a brief result, the use of suitable bacterial strains and explants were effective factors for hairy root induction in madder. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Silk is a natural filament obtained from the Bombyx mori species of silkworm, with a fiber length of up to 3000 meters. During the Ottoman era in Edirne, sericulture and silk trade were important activities. To this end, silk factories, trade centers, and silk weaving schools were established, creating an important source of income for the people of Edirne. Edirne Red is a natural dye obtained from the Rubia Tinctorum L. plant and is part of the Ottoman Empire's heritage. This dye is resistant to sunlight and washing. It has been used in Turkish carpets, as well as in silk and cotton fabrics. The aim of this study is to bring together the importance of Edirne Red and silk in Edirne's history. For this purpose, 100% silk fabrics were dyed using madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) grown within the borders of Edirne province. The effects of dye ratios and auxiliary chemicals used on color and colorfastness were examined during the dyeing process. The color values of the fabrics were measured numerically in the CIEL*a*b* color space, and the washing and light fastness values of the dyed fabrics were also measured. Additionally, high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analyses were performed on both the used madder and the dyed fabric. Based on the obtained data, the closest Edirne Red color was achieved by pre-mordanting fabric before dyeing and using ethanol as the dye solvent. Madder dye, successfully applied to silk fabrics under different conditions, has shown good results in terms of color yield and fastness properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper focuses on the first investigation of the 19th-century manufacture of red lake pigments obtained from madder by Winsor & Newton (W&N), prominent artists’ colourman at that time. The first approach to their manufacture was carried out by studying the madder entries of the company’s book P1, found in the W&N 19th Century Archive Database. Eleven production records were discovered under names such as Rose Madder, Madder Carmine, Madder Lake and Madder Rose. Three main methods of synthesis were identified and reproduced, revealing three main steps: washing of the madder roots (Rubia tinctorum L.); extraction in acid media and complexation with Al3+ using alum; and precipitation by the addition of salts such as ammonium carbonate and sodium borate. The syntheses were followed by UV-VIS spectroscopy, and the pigments were further characterised by colourimetry, Energy-Dispersive X-Ray Fluorescence Spectrometry (XRF), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and High-Performance Liquid Chromatography-Diode Array Detector (HPLC-DAD). They all exhibited a rose hue in a highly insoluble aluminate matrix. Although the dye extraction was incomplete, alizarin, purpurin and pseudopurpurin were identified. An analytical comparison with a Rose Madder 19th-century oil paint tube was also performed by micro-FTIR and microspectrofluorimetry. This work intends to be foundational to a systematic study of the W&N’s 19th-century madder colours aiming to contribute new knowledge towards their identification and preservation in heritage objects.

ABSTRACTWaterless or reduced water consumption dyeing methods based on supercritical technologies are of interest to fabric manufacturers. The study was aimed at developing a dyeing method for natural fibers, in particular linen and silk, by pressure supercritical impregnation using madder alizarin (R. tinctorum) coloring compound produced by supercritical extraction method as an ecological alternative to conventional dyeing methods. A comparative test of fabric dyeing using supercritical and conventional methods was also carried out. In these dyeing technologies, the pre-treatment process plays an important role in the color intensity. The tests were performed using fabrics without and with mordants, and the results were compared using the color analysis method. The colors of the dyed samples obtained in the supercritical technology are more in shades of carmine, and in the traditional method in duller reds. The proposed modern and ecological dyeing technology guarantees a good resistance to washing and light. Antibacterial activity tests were also performed using supercritical and ethanol extracts. Dyed fabrics play health-promoting and protective roles for their users. Linen fabrics showed antimicrobial activity and positive effects on the skin, which was more moisturized. Waterless technologies should be developed in conjunction with user and environmental impact studies.

In this investigation woven cotton fabric was dyed with madder dye under different dyeing conditions such as in the presence of without mordant, single mordant and mixed mordant. The thermal behaviour of non-mordanted,single mordanted and mixed chemical mordanted with madder dyed cotton fabrics were investigated through thermogravimetric analysis. Further, the fundamental molecular arrangement of dyed cotton fabric was confirmed by the Fourier transformer–Infrared spectroscopy, and the electronic orientation of dye molecule, and after adsorption of cellulose structure is confirmed from Ultra–Violet spectroscopy. HOMO and LUMO calculations are evaluated from the gaussian software. The interaction and binding energies between inhibitor (dye molecule) and cellulose surface are evaluated from molecular dynamic simulation using BIOVIA material studio software.

This paper discusses colorants found in Tumulus MM, the tomb of King Midas or his father, at Gordion, the capital of the Phrygian kingdom. Chromophores, colorants, and auxiliaries are preserved largely independent of the textiles they once colored. The Tumulus MM textiles are now fragmentary due to the degradation processes that occurred inside the tomb chamber. For DHA 26 (Vienna, Austria, 2007), we discussed a group of golden-yellow fragments from Tumulus MM that appeared to be tabby cloth but were skeletal lattices of goethite, αFeOOH (yellow ochre), as identified by FTIR, with SEM/EDS, XRD with molybdenum Kα radiation, NIR, and Raman spectroscopy. The “dyeing” has been replicated using a patented method; originally it may have involved a controlled redox reaction, based on our preliminary experiments. Amidst the goethite lattices, some skeletal fragments were green, with near-black lines within the yarn spiral, identified as indigo by FTIR at the time. Other masses with colorations of red, orange/brown, and purple with deep red veins did not yield identifiable inorganic coloration profiles with SEM/EDS. A purple fragment (2003-Tx-6 Front) was assayed by ICP-MS for mordants and for bromine, but neither could be found. Recently, direct analysis in real time mass spectrometry (DART-MS) enabled us to successfully detect organic colorants. For one fragment, indoxyl, isatin, indigo, and leuco-indigo were identified. One striated red-to-brown mass (2003-Tx-3) contained alizarin, purpurin, xanthopurpurin, lucidin, and other madder substituents; it also contained indigo/isatin but neither indoxyl nor leuco-indigo. Other beige-brown masses like 2003-Tx-5 sometimes contained alizarin, xanthopurpurin, rubiadin, and lucidin but rarely purpurin or indigo-related compounds. The purple (2003-Tx-6) shared the madder analogues with browner hues. The versatility appears related to that found in Anatolian pile carpets and flat weaves. Our new analyses confirm that the Phrygian textile colorists were indeed superb, versatile dyers.

The effect of nano SiO2silica and nano TiO2 on the dyeing of cotton fabric with madder dye was studied. The metal nanoparticles were prepared by sol-gel method from respective precursors. Various concentrations of the nanoparticles were added during the dyeing of cotton with madder. The effect of nanoparticles on the color values, fastness, and ultraviolet protection properties was studied. The characterization of the nanoparticles and the dyed fabric was studied using various analytical techniques. The dye was characterized by FTIR and phytochemical analysis. The post dyeing results inferred that there is a considerable improvement in the dye uptake and fastness properties of the dyed fabric after introducing metal nanoparticles. The SEM and EDX analysis confirmed the presence of SiO2 and TiO2nanoparticles on the fabric surface. The physico-mechanical properties of the fabric were found intact after dyeing.

Reducing pollution in various industries such as textile is very important. In this study, the important approach was selected to reduce the pollution of dyeing process’s pollution, namely the selection of plant-based dyes and mordants. The dyes and mordants were extracted from ultrasonic media to obtain maximum efficiency with the least pollution. The extraction efficiency of madder, Reseda, and walnut husk in water with the ultrasound-assisted method was 23%, 33%, and 36%, respectively. The pre-mordanting method was used for mordanting, and to compare the results, Fe (ferrous) salt was selected as the mineral mordant. FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) as analysis techniques were employed to investigate the extracts obtained and the changes in the fibers. The study of K/S (color strength) content of dyed samples showed that increasing the dye concentration of the dye increases the amount of K/S. The colorfastness properties of all samples were investigated using the ISO (International Organization for Standardization) standards. The wash, light, and rub fastness of dyed yarns were good, moderate, and good, respectively.

In recent years, there is a great tendency for ecological dyeing and finishing of natural fabrics with natural dyes. Natural dyes obtained from nature were used for dyeing of textiles from ancient times till the nineteenth century. Weld (Reseda Luteola L.) produces the most stable yellow colour and shades and Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) produces the most beautiful red colour and shades. These natural dyes were usually combined toghether to produce different shades of orange. Colour represents the bridge between science-art- industry, and can be described by various methods, with the following features: hue, saturation or purity (chroma) and brightness. Any colour can be defined by these three values which describe a unique color. The paper presents the colour analysis, resulting 16 variants of the ecological dyeing on hemp fabric with natural dyes Weld and Madder. In the colour analysis, the following was observed: the influence of the prior application of treatments for improving the absorption capacity of the dye (pre-treatments with enzyme and scouring and bleaching in one step), the influence of using different combinations and concentrations of dye (Weld-Madder combination and Madder-Weld combination), but also the colour resistance after washing on the tested samples. In order to have a general view over the colours obtained after dyeing with natural dyes on hemp samples, colouring measurements in the CIE LAB system with spectrophotometer 968 (X– Rite, USA), with light source D65 and observer of 100 (Enhanced polarization filter according to ISO/ DIS 13655) have been carried out.

This paper focuses on the first investigation of the 19th-century manufacture of red lake pigments obtained from madder by Winsor & Newton (W&N), prominent artists' colourman at that time. The first approach to their manufacture was carried out by studying the madder entries of the company's book P1, found in the W&N 19th Century Archive Database. Eleven production records were discovered under names such as Rose Madder, Madder Carmine, Madder Lake and Madder Rose. Three main methods of synthesis were identified and reproduced, revealing three main steps: washing of the madder roots (Rubia tinctorum L.); extraction in acid media and complexation with Al3+ using alum; and precipitation by the addition of salts such as ammonium carbonate and sodium borate. The syntheses were followed by UV-VIS spectroscopy, and the pigments were further characterised by colourimetry, Energy-Dispersive X-Ray Fluorescence Spectrometry (XRF), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and High-Performance Liquid Chromatography-Diode Array Detector (HPLC-DAD). They all exhibited a rose hue in a highly insoluble aluminate matrix. Although the dye extraction was incomplete, alizarin, purpurin and pseudopurpurin were identified. An analytical comparison with a Rose Madder 19th-century oil paint tube was also performed by micro-FTIR and microspectrofluorimetry. This work intends to be foundational to a systematic study of the W&N's 19th-century madder colours aiming to contribute new knowledge towards their identification and preservation in heritage objects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study emphasizes that madder is an input compatible with sustainability goals in the textile sector. Madder is an input (dyestuff) that can be used instead of hazardous chemicals in textile dyeing. With this feature, madder has a high trade potential. It has been cultivated and traded throughout history. Although it came to the point of disappearance after the discovery of synthetic dyes, it has gained significance again today. The study aimed to support, the commercial value of madder with figures. In this study, the commercial value of madder emphasized with figures. Madder is a driving force that carries economies from rural development to national development and it is a material compatible with sustainability goals. It has been frequently preferred in textile coloring in recent years because it supports zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. At the empirical stage of the study, the amount of fabric to be dyed with a unit of madder was calculated by multiplying the product obtained per hectare with the dyestuff ratio. Then, the average of the prices of madder obtained from various producers was collected and the commercial value of the madder was revealed. With the understanding of the commercial value of it, countries, producers and all stakeholders with environmental awareness will evaluate the potential.

Waterless or reduced water consumption dyeing methods based on supercritical technologies are of interest to fabric manufacturers. The study was aimed at developing a dyeing method for natural fibers, in particular linen and silk, by pressure supercritical impregnation using madder alizarin (R. tinctorum) coloring compound produced by supercritical extraction method as an ecological alternative to conventional dyeing methods. A comparative test of fabric dyeing using supercritical and conventional methods was also carried out. In these dyeing technologies, the pre-treatment process plays an important role in the color intensity. The tests were performed using fabrics without and with mordants, and the results were compared using the color analysis method. The colors of the dyed samples obtained in the supercritical technology are more in shades of carmine, and in the traditional method in duller reds. The proposed modern and ecological dyeing technology guarantees a good resistance to washing and light. Antibacterial activity tests were also performed using supercritical and ethanol extracts. Dyed fabrics play health-promoting and protective roles for their users. Linen fabrics showed antimicrobial activity and positive effects on the skin, which was more moisturized. Waterless technologies should be developed in conjunction with user and environmental impact studies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper discusses colorants found in Tumulus MM, the tomb of King Midas or his father, at Gordion, the capital of the Phrygian kingdom. Chromophores, colorants, and auxiliaries are preserved largely independent of the textiles they once colored. The Tumulus MM textiles are now fragmentary due to the degradation processes that occurred inside the tomb chamber. For DHA 26 (Vienna, Austria, 2007), we discussed a group of golden-yellow fragments from Tumulus MM that appeared to be tabby cloth but were skeletal lattices of goethite, αFeOOH (yellow ochre), as identified by FTIR, with SEM/EDS, XRD with molybdenum Kα radiation, NIR, and Raman spectroscopy. The "dyeing" has been replicated using a patented method; originally it may have involved a controlled redox reaction, based on our preliminary experiments. Amidst the goethite lattices, some skeletal fragments were green, with near-black lines within the yarn spiral, identified as indigo by FTIR at the time. Other masses with colorations of red, orange/brown, and purple with deep red veins did not yield identifiable inorganic coloration profiles with SEM/EDS. A purple fragment (2003-Tx-6 Front) was assayed by ICP-MS for mordants and for bromine, but neither could be found. Recently, direct analysis in real time mass spectrometry (DART-MS) enabled us to successfully detect organic colorants. For one fragment, indoxyl, isatin, indigo, and leuco-indigo were identified. One striated red-to-brown mass (2003-Tx-3) contained alizarin, purpurin, xanthopurpurin, lucidin, and other madder substituents; it also contained indigo/isatin but neither indoxyl nor leuco-indigo. Other beige-brown masses like 2003-Tx-5 sometimes contained alizarin, xanthopurpurin, rubiadin, and lucidin but rarely purpurin or indigo-related compounds. The purple (2003-Tx-6) shared the madder analogues with browner hues. The versatility appears related to that found in Anatolian pile carpets and flat weaves. Our new analyses confirm that the Phrygian textile colorists were indeed superb, versatile dyers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study emphasizes that madder is an input compatible with sustainability goals in the textile sector. Madder is an input (dyestuff) that can be used instead of hazardous chemicals in textile dyeing. With this feature, madder has a high trade potential. It has been cultivated and traded throughout history. Although it came to the point of disappearance after the discovery of synthetic dyes, it has gained significance again today. The study aimed to support, the commercial value of madder with figures. In this study, the commercial value of madder emphasized with figures. Madder is a driving force that carries economies from rural development to national development and it is a material compatible with sustainability goals. It has been frequently preferred in textile coloring in recent years because it supports zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. At the empirical stage of the study, the amount of fabric to be dyed with a unit of madder was calculated by multiplying the product obtained per hectare with the dyestuff ratio. Then, the average of the prices of madder obtained from various producers was collected and the commercial value of the madder was revealed. With the understanding of the commercial value of it, countries, producers and all stakeholders with environmental awareness will evaluate the potential. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Reducing pollution in various industries such as textile is very important. In this study, the important approach was selected to reduce the pollution of dyeing process's pollution, namely the selection of plant-based dyes and mordants. The dyes and mordants were extracted from ultrasonic media to obtain maximum efficiency with the least pollution. The extraction efficiency of madder, Reseda, and walnut husk in water with the ultrasound-assisted method was 23%, 33%, and 36%, respectively. The pre-mordanting method was used for mordanting, and to compare the results, Fe (ferrous) salt was selected as the mineral mordant. FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) as analysis techniques were employed to investigate the extracts obtained and the changes in the fibers. The study of K/S (color strength) content of dyed samples showed that increasing the dye concentration of the dye increases the amount of K/S. The colorfastness properties of all samples were investigated using the ISO (International Organization for Standardization) standards. The wash, light, and rub fastness of dyed yarns were good, moderate, and good, respectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To decide dyeing process parameters according to various color fastness values for different usage areas of the linen fabric, the TOPSIS method, which is one of the multi-criteria decision-making methods, has been employed. Method Dyeing procedures The dyeing of fabrics were carried out in different liquor ratios (1/30, 1/40, 1/50) with the use of different amounts of dye source (1:0.5/1:1/1:2) which show the amount of textile material to natural dye sources amount. Keywords: ; ; ; ; ; ; ; Cellulose; linen; dyeing; madder; multi-criteria decision making-topsis method; sustainability ZH EN Cellulose linen dyeing madder multi-criteria decision making-topsis method sustainability 8993 9008 16 11/21/22 20221220 NES 221220 Introduction Sustainable or eco-friendly products are a key concern of today's consumer. [Extracted from the article]

The effect of nano SiO2silica and nano TiO2 on the dyeing of cotton fabric with madder dye was studied. The metal nanoparticles were prepared by sol-gel method from respective precursors. Various concentrations of the nanoparticles were added during the dyeing of cotton with madder. The effect of nanoparticles on the color values, fastness, and ultraviolet protection properties was studied. The characterization of the nanoparticles and the dyed fabric was studied using various analytical techniques. The dye was characterized by FTIR and phytochemical analysis. The post dyeing results inferred that there is a considerable improvement in the dye uptake and fastness properties of the dyed fabric after introducing metal nanoparticles. The SEM and EDX analysis confirmed the presence of SiO2 and TiO2nanoparticles on the fabric surface. The physico-mechanical properties of the fabric were found intact after dyeing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bio-based PTT is a green degradable polyester material which can be prepared by the polymerization with bio-based 1,3-propylene glycol (PDO) and terephthalic acid (PTA). In the present work, a bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) antibacterial fabric was fabricated by a traditional dyeing method using a natural acid mordant dye and metal ion. The color of madder dye is sensitive to the outside environment. Different metal ions have great influence on the color of madder dye, which can not only enrich the chromatogram of plant dyes but also improve the dyeing fastness. Furthermore, Bio-based PTT fabric can be dyed with the madder dye under atmospheric dyeing condition by one-bath and optimal Dyeing Conditions were 90–100 °C of dyeing temperature, 40 min of dyeing time and 5–6 pH of dye solution. The antimicrobial test results showed that the dyed PTT fabrics dyed with only madder dye exhibited good antimicrobial properties. In the dyeing process, the introduction of metal silver ion to dyed PTT fabrics enhanced antimicrobial properties and washing fastness. Madder-Ag+ dyed PTT fabric in one bath medium displayed excellent inhibitory effect on the growth and reproduction of S. aureus and E. coli. After 10 times of washing, it still possessed excellent antibacterial performance, and the antibacterial rate still reached 99 %. In our work, the traditional one-bath dyeing method with natural acid mordant dyes and Ag ions can realize coloring and antibacterial properties. The functional application of bio-based PTT materials will be expanded. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The identification of organic colorants in traditional oil paintings is an important and challenging area of conservation research. Since many organic dyes and pigments are fugitive, the detection of these materials is crucial for the proper assessment of fading, conservation treatment, and the prevention of further photodamage. While numerous methods exist to characterize colorants, recent advances in surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) methodologies have enabled the unambiguous identification of various organic dyestuffs in oil paintings in a minimally invasive manner. Here, we apply a collection of SERS-based protocols to identify the organic pigments used in a number of oil paintings that were made in the Southern British colonies of North America during the eighteenth century and are being prepared for exhibition at the Art Museums of Colonial Williamsburg. Questions arose during the painting examinations that would appear to involve color shifts and possible fading. The SERS results reveal the identity of several organic pigments (i.e. carmine lake, madder lake, Reseda lake, indigo, gamboge) in these eighteenth-century portraits, within the broad-scale quantity-rich areas of the composition as well as the more challenging flesh tones and small, yet important, detail regions. We discover the continued use of carmine lake in seven of the ten paintings and identify the blue and yellow organic pigments used in this group, both of which contribute to our understanding of pigment availability and artists' choices, as well as supporting the more accurate assessment of condition and the artists' original intent. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

For roughly four thousand years the pulverized roots of both wild (Rubia peregrina L.) and cultivated (Rubia tinctorum L.) madder have been used in Asia, North Africa and Europe as a red dye. Madder's original, natural habitat extended from Iran to the Mediterranean and madder roots were gathered, processed and used long before the plant was systematically cultivated. Although the red dye derived from madder was put to various uses, the dyeing of fibres for use in textiles and carpets was the primary one, and is first attested c. 2000 BC in Mesopotamian cuneiform sources. In Iran madder's use can be traced from late Antiquity to the modern era, and may have begun as early as the 1st millennium BC. In the 19th century demand for madder in India and Russia was great, spurring large investment in madder cultivation as a cash crop, both in Iran and in the Caucasus. Documents are presented which provide detailed accounts of both madder cultivation and the processing of the roots for the production of dyestuff. The introduction of synthetic dyes in the 1870s largely eradicated the market for madder-based dye in Eurasia and had a profound impact on the carpet industry, in particular. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Today, the issue of reducing industrial pollution has received much attention. The textile industry is of high important throughout the world. However, its by‐product wastewater pollutes the environment. The first approach was the selection of plant‐based dyes (madder and reseda) and the application of tannin‐based mordants (pomegranate peel and myrobalan). The extraction of madder, reseda, and pomegranate peel in water with the ultrasound‐assisted method was done. In this article, pre‐mordanting method was used for mordanting and Cu (copper) and alum were selected as the mineral mordant to compare the results. Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy method was employed to analyze the obtained extracts and to investigate the changes in the fibers. The results showed that K/S (color strength) values of the dyed samples increased by increasing the dye concentration. The colorfastness properties of the samples were investigated according the ISO standards. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled to a Diode-Array-Detector (HPLC-DAD) is used to investigate samples which were extracted from ancient Egyptian textiles (4th–5th c. AD) of the Museum of Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University. Madder is identified in several samples. According to semi-quantitative results, which are obtained from HPLC peak areas measured at 254 nm, madder that is rich in purpurin and poor in alizarin is identified in samples which were treated (i) only with madder and (ii) with madder and either indigo/woad (Indigofera species and other/Isatis tinctoria L.) or weld (Reseda luteola L.). The madder dye used in these samples could have been originated from Rubia peregrina L. However, the possible use of Rubia tinctorum L. (or other plants of the Rubiaceae family) by the Egyptian dyers cannot be ruled out, particularly if methods were developed by the ancient dyers to affect and control the relative composition of madder dye. The HPLC peak area ratio of alizarin versus purpurin is very high (>2.2) for samples which were treated with madder (probably originated from R. tinctorum) and a tannin source. Finally, in some samples, only indigoid dyes (indigo/woad) are identified.

In this study, madder dye nanoparticles have been successfully prepared by using a simple ball milling technique. Madder dye nanoparticles are characterized by using UV-vis. absorption, XRD, TEM, FTIR spectroscopy and SEM. The prepared madder dye nanoparticles are used as an active ingredient for printing cotton, wool, and polyester fabrics via dye printing technique and pigment printing technique. Factors of printing process, such as substrates mordanting, thickeners type, urea concentration and pH of printing paste, urea concentration of first paste and binder concentration of second paste, are studied. Results show that fabrics printed with madder dye nanoparticles via mentioned two methods show very good to excellent fastness properties with a full green method. These data indicate that printed samples have high quality for colour strength without any environmental hazards as compared to other conventual and nanotechnological aspects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There has been increased interest in the use of natural dyes for textile coloration as alternatives to synthetic dyes, due to the general belief that natural dyes are more environmentally friendly. However, natural dyes have poor affinity for textiles, which can lead to high dye levels in the resultant wastewater. While chlorine treatment has proven to be effective for dye wastewater disinfection and decolorization, this process can also lead to the formation of more toxic degradation products for certain synthetic dyes. On the other hand, little information is available regarding the ecotoxicity of natural dyes and their chlorination products. To advance knowledge in this area, madder was selected due to its historical importance and wide application in the textile industry. Specifically, we sought to characterize the chlorine-induced degradation products of an aqueous madder solution and to assess their ecotoxicity. The main component of the present madder sample was Alizarin (89.8%). Chlorination led to complete decolorization, and 2-hydroxynaphthalene-1,4-dione and phthalic anhydride were identified as key degradation products. Chlorination of madder decreased toxicity to Daphnia similis (microcrustacean) 10-fold and removed the toxicity to Raphidocellis subcapitata (algae), when compared to the parent dye. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Reducing pollution in various industries such as textile is very important. In this paper, two parallel methods were used to reduce pollution of the process and application of dye. The first approach was the selection of plant-based dyes (Madder with the botanical name of Rubia tinctorum and Reseda with botanical name of Reseda odorata) and the application of a tannin-based mordant (pomegranate peel with botanical name of Punica granatum). The second approach was extraction and dyeing in ultrasound media. The extraction efficiency of madder, Reseda, and pomegranate peel in water with the ultrasound-assisted method was 23%, 33%, and 29%, respectively. In this paper, the meta-mordanting method was used for mordanting procedure, and to compare the results, Cu (copper) was selected as the mineral mordant. Extracts were identified by FTIR method. Yarns' changes in the process of mordanting and dyeing are investigated using two methods, FTIR and SEM. The effect of changing the concentration of mordant and dyes with the amount of K/S were evaluated and the K/S value of dyed samples illustrated that increasing the dye concentration of the dye increases the amount of K/S. The color fastness properties of all samples were investigated using the ISO standards. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled to a Diode-Array-Detector (HPLC-DAD) is used to investigate samples which were extracted from ancient Egyptian textiles (4th–5th c. AD) of the Museum of Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University. Madder is identified in several samples. According to semi-quantitative results, which are obtained from HPLC peak areas measured at 254 nm, madder that is rich in purpurin and poor in alizarin is identified in samples which were treated (i) only with madder and (ii) with madder and either indigo/woad (Indigofera species and other/Isatis tinctoria L.) or weld (Reseda luteola L.). The madder dye used in these samples could have been originated from Rubia peregrina L. However, the possible use of Rubia tinctorum L. (or other plants of the Rubiaceae family) by the Egyptian dyers cannot be ruled out, particularly if methods were developed by the ancient dyers to affect and control the relative composition of madder dye. The HPLC peak area ratio of alizarin versus purpurin is very high (>2.2) for samples which were treated with madder (probably originated from R. tinctorum) and a tannin source. Finally, in some samples, only indigoid dyes (indigo/woad) are identified. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, polyester fabric was dyed with madder as an environmentally friendly natural dye. According to Box-Behnken experimental design, 46 samples were dyed under various levels of five parameters including dye concentration, dyebath pH, temperature, time, and liquor ratio, and the color strength (K/S) of the dyed samples was measured. To evaluate the effect of each parameter on the color strength, the data was evaluated using multiple analysis of variance. Then, the artificial neural network (ANN) and fuzzy logic models were used to predict the measured K/S values. As both models contain different parameters, the genetic algorithm was implemented to optimize the model accuracy. It was observed that the best obtained ANN and fuzzy models can predict the K/S values with mean absolute percentage error of 2.52 and 3.01, respectively. Also, the effect of each input parameter on ANN was determined according to the partial derivative method and it was found that the maximum and minimum effects on ANN corresponds to dye concentration and liquor ratio, respectively. Finally, the effects of each dyeing parameter on the color strength was investigated based on the established optimal ANN model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, silk fabrics were dyed with madder (Rubia tinctorium L.) and gall oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier). One fabric was dyed only with madder and the other four fabrics were dyed with both plants by keeping madder percentage constant. After the dyeing procedure, silk fabrics dyed were characterized according to different of analysis involve antimicrobial activity testing, dyestuff analysis, and color measurement. Dyestuff analysis was performed by HPLC-DAD and color measurement was done using CIELAB spectrophotometer. Antimicrobial activity test was carried out against gram-positive and gram-negative using Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538) as Gram-positive bacterium and Escherichia coli (ATCC 25922) as Gram-negative bacterium. Gall oak containing dyeings performed better in antimicrobial activity tests and selected silk fabric was subjected to durability test. It was laundered five times under same conditions and after each laundering procedure, a large piece of fabric in a certain size was cut for durability test. These silk fabrics retained nearly 100% activity up to five launderings against S.aureus and E.coli.

Food products as a source of natural colorants are gaining widespread popularity around the globe due to their ayurvedic and eco-friendly nature. Current study is aimed with the utilization of food products (Saffron and madder) as a source of dye for woolen yarn. It is found that, for Saffron, irradiation of yarn for 6 min gives high color strength by dyeing for 45 min in the presence of 2% of salts using un-irradiated dye bath of 1 pH, whereas for madder, 4 min is optimal irradiation time for extract to dye irradiated yarn for 25 min in the presence of 6% of salts using the irradiated dye bath of pH 1. The mordanting carried out at optimal conditions show that using both extracts, woolen yarn dyed at optimal conditions has given good color characteristics. It is concluded that microwave radiation has not only improved natural dyeing process but also make the process more eco-friendly and sustainable as well.

Abstract Background The body responds to overnutrition by converting stem cells to adipocytes. In vitro and in vivo studies have shown polyphenols and other natural compounds to be anti-adipogenic, presumably due in part to their antioxidant properties. Purpurin is a highly antioxidative anthraquinone and previous studies on anthraquinones have reported numerous biological activities in cells and animals. Anthraquinones have also been used to stimulate osteoblast differentiation, an inversely-related process to that of adipocyte differentiation. We propose that due to its high antioxidative properties, purpurin administration might attenuate adipogenesis in cells and in mice. Methods Our study will test the effect purpurin has on adipogenesis using both in vitro and in vivo models. The in vitro model consists of tracking with various biomarkers, the differentiation of pre-adipocyte to adipocytes in cell culture. The compound will then be tested in mice fed a high-fat diet. Murine 3T3-L1 preadipocyte cells were stimulated to differentiate in the presence or absence of purpurin. The following cellular parameters were measured: intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), membrane potential of the mitochondria, ATP production, activation of AMPK (adenosine 5′-monophosphate-activated protein kinase), insulin-induced lipid accumulation, triglyceride accumulation, and expression of PPARγ (peroxisome proliferator activated receptor-γ) and C/EBPα (CCAAT enhancer binding protein α). In vivo, mice were fed high fat diets supplemented with various levels of purpurin. Data collected from the animals included anthropometric data, glucose tolerance test results, and postmortem plasma glucose, lipid levels, and organ examinations. Results The administration of purpurin at 50 and 100 μM in 3T3-L1 cells, and at 40 and 80 mg/kg in mice proved to be a sensitive range: the lower concentrations affected several measured parameters, whereas at the higher doses purpurin consistently mitigated biomarkers associated with adipogenesis, and weight gain in mice. Purpurin appears to be an effective antiadipogenic compound. Conclusion The anthraquinone purpurin has potent in vitro anti-adipogenic effects in cells and in vivo anti-obesity effects in mice consuming a high-fat diet. Differentiation of 3T3-L1 cells was dose-dependently inhibited by purpurin, apparently by AMPK activation. Mice on a high-fat diet experienced a dose-dependent reduction in induced weight gain of up to 55%.

In recent years, there is a great tendency for ecological dyeing and finishing of natural fabrics with natural dyes. Natural dyes obtained from nature were used for dyeing of textiles from ancient times till the nineteenth century. Weld (Reseda Luteola L.) produces the most stable yellow colour and shades and Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) produces the most beautiful red colour and shades. These natural dyes were usually combined toghether to produce different shades of orange. Colour represents the bridge between science-artindustry, and can be described by various methods, with the following features: hue, saturation or purity (chroma) and brightness. Any colour can be defined by these three values which describe a unique color. The paper presents the colour analysis, resulting 16 variants of the ecological dyeing on hemp fabric with natural dyes Weld and Madder. In the colour analysis, the following was observed: the influence of the prior application of treatments for improving the absorption capacity of the dye (pre-treatments with enzyme and scouring and bleaching in one step), the influence of using different combinations and concentrations of dye (Weld-Madder combination and Madder-Weld combination), but also the colour resistance after washing on the tested samples. In order to have a general view over the colours obtained after dyeing with natural dyes on hemp samples, colouring measurements in the CIE LAB system with spectrophotometer 968 (X-Rite, USA), with light source D65 and observer of 100 (Enhanched polarization filter according to ISO/DIS 13655) have been carried out. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The roots of the madder plant (Rubinia tinctorum) contain some pigments that can be used to produce the red dyes. In order to study the effect of salinity on alterations in the amount of plant pigment an experiment was conducted according to a completely randomized design with three replications. Based on the CIE XYZ color space model designed close to human color vision, the results showed that increasing soil salinity decreased the value of The lightness value parameter (L*), but the A* (redness and greenness) and B* (yellowness and blueness) values were increased with increasing soil salinity up to the level of 8 dSm-1. There was a significant positive correlation between A* value and Ca + Mg and a significant negative correlation between L* value and Ca+Mg at the 5% level. Fitting three nonlinear regression model to data, simulated and described the variation of colorimetric specification of woolen samples dyed under different madder dyes and salinity conditions. These models proved to be an appropriate and reasonable link between madder growth conditions and colorimetric specification of woolen samples dyed such as L*, A* and B* values. Due to the high resistant characteristics of madder to salinity, increasing salinity in the madder root zone lead to acceptable quality and efficiency of pigment production and to expand the possibilities for economic production of Rubinia tinctorum in soil salinity in the central arid region of Iran

Abstract Fiber optics reflectance spectroscopy (FORS) is commonly used to non-invasively identify madder- and cochineal-based pigments on works of art, but the significant shifts sometimes observed in the position of their diagnostic absorption features can hinder correct interpretation of the spectra. To better understand these shifts, and improve the ability to confidently identify these pigments, a systematic study was carried out to evaluate the effects of different pigment recipes and laking substrates on reflectance spectra. Sixteen different madder- and cochineal-based pigments were synthesized using historical recipes. Each pigment, painted in four different binding media (gum Arabic, linseed oil, beeswax, and egg yolk), was fully characterized by FTIR and HPLC-DAD-MS prior to FORS measurements. The results of the study showed that, in contrast to the absorption features typically used for identification, features in the first derivative transformation of the FORS spectra provided a more robust means of primary identification. In addition, once it has been identified as cochineal, the absorption features in the spectra of cochineal-based pigments could be correlated to the recipe employed, providing a possible means for inferring the method of manufacture and laking substrate from a non-invasive analysis. The results of this study were used to create a decision tree for the identification of madder and cochineal pigments based solely on FORS.

Abstract Red is undoubtedly one of the principal colors in Iranian carpets. During the twentieth century, a golden era for Iranian carpet production and export industry, madder was still one of the primary constituents of the red dyestuff, used according to various dyeing methods which is specific for Iran. Compared to the earlier periods, the said period witnessed a clear increase in the hues of the color red and in the alternation of physical and visual properties. We, therefore, aim to get a better insight into the chemical and physical properties of the component which made it all possible—dyes. To this effect, eighteen red wool samples with various hues were collected from seven Iranian carpets belonging to the aforementioned period (from Ali Mirzaei’s private collection) and analyzed using three techniques: reversed-phase-high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC-DAD), scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM–EDX) and colorimetry. We also studied traditional dying recipes to underpin the scientific process involved. We focused on recipes based on madder, which are mordanted with organic additives such as qarehqurut (a kind of Iranian dairy product; also known as Gharehghorut). These substances, additionally, helped control the acidity of the dyebath; a common technique from the period. The effect of these substances on the hue, the associated red dye chemistry, various visual and physical properties, including color fastness, are reported. Our study revealed, among other facts, that the additive qarehqurut is highly efficient at improving color absorption and at increasing lightfastness. Another salient finding was that, besides madder, various synthetic dye sources were used by the twentieth century “traditional” Iranian red dyeing industry.

In this study, silk fabrics were dyed with madder (Rubia tinctorium L.) and gall oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier). One fabric was dyed only with madder and the other four fabrics were dyed with both plants by keeping madder percentage constant. After the dyeing procedure, silk fabrics dyed were characterized according to different of analysis involve antimicrobial activity testing, dyestuff analysis, and color measurement. Dyestuff analysis was performed by HPLC-DAD and color measurement was done using CIELAB spectrophotometer. Antimicrobial activity test was carried out against gram-positive and gram-negative using Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538) as Gram-positive bacterium and Escherichia coli (ATCC 25922) as Gram-negative bacterium. Gall oak containing dyeings performed better in antimicrobial activity tests and selected silk fabric was subjected to durability test. It was laundered five times under same conditions and after each laundering procedure, a large piece of fabric in a certain size was cut for durability test. These silk fabrics retained nearly 100% activity up to five launderings against S.aureus and E.coli. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Jean-François Persoz (1805-1868) was a Swiss-French pharmacist and chemist who with Payen isolated the amylase of malt (the first enzyme isolated and studied) and with Biot showed that the inversion of sugar could be followed by means of circular polarization. He also studied the chemistry and preparation of complex metallic oxides, the solubility of salts, the composition of madder, the dyeing and printing of fabrics, arsenic poisoning, etc. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]