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This review summarises the properties, nutritional requirements, and production of a natural fibre called mohairs produced by Angora goats. One of the most valuable natural fibres is mohair, produced by Angora goats. Angora goats, also known as Ankara, have their origin in Asia Minor, but today, South Africa is home to over 23% of the global population of Angora goats, where it produces over 60% of the world's mohair, generating about 4 million kilograms annually. Eastern parts of South Africa account for over 72% of the total Angora goats in the country, hence producing the highest number of mohair. The physical properties of Angora mohair, such as lustre, non-inflammable, breathable, durability, elasticity, and resistance to soiling, make it unique and different from other natural fibres of other animal sources. These properties are affected by age, nutrition, and management. The role of nutrition is particularly crucial, as Angora goats require 3-4% of their body weight DM, whilst meat goats and lactating dairy goats require 3-5% and 4-6% of their body weight DM. When Angora goats were fed diets with 18% crude protein, mohair growth increased by about 33% annually compared to diets containing 12-15% CP, while feed intakes were the same. Also, copper, sulphur, molybdenum, and water intake affect the quality of mohairs. In conclusion, inadequate nutrition significantly impedes productivity and sustains financial losses. Hence, promoting sustainable farming practices is vital, investing in research to develop resilient grazing systems and drought-tolerant feed crops, and building capacity for small-scale farmers to improve mohar production and quality in South Africa. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study was conducted to determine the mohair quality characteristics of Eskisehir, Lalahan and Siirt variety Angora goats. In the study, mohair samples were taken from the shoulder, rump and rib regions of each Angora goat of Eskisehir, Lalahan and Siirt varieties during the mohair shearing period. A total of 57 samples from 19 heads of Angora goats were analyzed in terms of quality characteristics such as clean weight, dirty weight, yield, length, fineness, elasticity and tenacity. According to the results obtained, the effect of variety and gender on the dirty weight, clean weight and yield variables was statistically significant (P0.05). The effect of variety and region on the length variable was found to be statistically significant, while the effect of gender was found to be insignificant. The effect of variety and gender on the fineness variable was found to be statistically significant, while the effect of region was found to be statistically insignificant. The effects of variety, gender and region on the elasticity variable were found to be statistically insignificant. The effect of variety on the tenacity variable was found to be statistically significant, while the effect of gender and region was found to be statistically insignificant. According to the information obtained from this study, variety, region and gender variables have various effects on mohair characteristics. It is thought that these characteristics will contribute to studies on breeding Angora goats and improving mohair quality.

This research aimed to evaluate alternative selection schemes through their expected selection responses and the Bulmer parameters in the Markhoz goat breed. To select the best-ranked animals the body weights at birth, weaning, 6 months, 9 months, yearling, and mohair production records were assessed to compare the selection responses using SelAction 2.2. The average economic gain of the 3-trait indices was higher than the 2-trait indices. In this regard, the use of two selection indices of I7 (3-traits) and I4 (2-traits) promoted simultaneous improvement in both meat and mohair productions and can be proposed for application in this population. Artificial selection through several selection schemes has reduced population parameters in the current population of Markhoz goats. The magnitude of reduction in phenotypic variance and heritability was greater in traits that have been directly selected (included in index) and traits that had a higher economic coefficient in the index. Considering the present conditions, provided the optimal possible selection response, genetic improvement, and economic gain to improve both mohair and meat production. Although, the use of these indices depends on the determination of objectives and of the measurement facility of selection criteria. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Present study was conducted to determine the changes in the surface structure of the upper respiratory tract of Siirt‐coloured mohair goats by the silicone plastination method. Accordingly, the heads of 10 Siirt‐coloured mohair goats procured from slaughterhouses were divided into two halves. Half of each head was plastinated. After macro‐comparisons were made, the deformations of silicone plastination on the surface were examined by comparing the scanning electron microscope (SEM) findings of both upper respiratory tract tissue samples collected from plastinates and fresh material. When the data from scanning electron microscopy were analysed, cilia, cobblestone patterns, goblet cells and gland ducts on the epithelial surface were identified in areas on the upper respiratory tract. The SEM images of the plastinated tissues showed that the surface structures were degenerated due to the deformation of the surface epithelium. The plastination technique damaged the structures on the surface epithelium. Since the plastination technique and scanning electron microscopy have been studied together for the first time, we believe this would contribute to the scientific literature. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In diabetic patients, optimised plantar health necessitates meticulously designed hosiery. These specialised socks facilitate a healthy microclimate at the skin–textile interface. This requires that stable conditions of temperature and humidity are maintained during wear. This study investigated the thermal resistance and moisture management properties of socks for diabetics. Fabrics and socks were evaluated on the Alambeta and thermal foot manikin instruments and in wear trials. A novel in vitro method, mimicking in-use conditions, was employed to validate findings and assess sock performance during wear. Fabric structure, especially thickness, had a greater impact on thermal resistance than fibre composition, suggesting that socks with different levels of thermal resistance can be customised according to individual preferences. In terms of moisture management, mohair–wool socks outperformed polyester socks, maintaining significantly lower humidity between the skin and the sock, and meeting the requirement to prevent the drying out of the microclimate significantly better. The enhanced moisture vapour sorption exhibited by the mohair–wool fabric contributes to this effect. Overall, the findings suggest that mohair–wool is an excellent fibre choice for diabetic socks, due to its unique moisture management properties and the possibility to tailor thermal properties through fabric structural design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The study conducts a socio-spatial analysis of the international trade routes and capital circulation that developed between the 16th and 19th centuries in Ottoman Ankara through the production of mohair and camlet. It draws a picture through travelogues, academic research, and secondary sources. Beyond the perception "built from scratch", Ankara was a vibrant commercial center with a cosmopolitan population density comparable to port cities. The local population, consisting of Muslims and non-Muslims, used to produce camlet from the unique Angora goat. The city became a global monopoly with its distinctive identity, and was a modest settlement with its urban spaces developing around the Castle, self-creating its borders, and introverted. Ankara was well known in Europe as a vibrant and lively Ottoman city. Spatial mobility of traders was not unique to the locals of Ankara, European merchants were also settling in Ankara. To make the unique history of the city visible is the main concern of the text. The aim here is not to develop a new method for studying urban history but to emphasize the importance of capital accumulation as a medium for grasping the transformation of socio-spatial set up of the city over time. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mohair fibres from animals are a great choice for people who care about the environment. They have low toxicity, are abundant in raw materials and don't pose any health risks. However, when compared to synthetic fibres, their mechanical performance is not as good. Mohair fibres are best suited for low to medium load applications, such as car parts, agricultural equipment, sports equipment and household items. Despite their excellent properties, there is still a lot we don't know about mohair textile-reinforced polyester composites. The novelty of this study is testing different mohair fibre textiles to see which one provides the best characteristics. The three most commonly used locally-made mohair fabrics (woven, knitted and pressed mat) were selected as reinforcement in polyester resin. Nine different laminates of similar and hybrid layers were made by hand lay-up in a closed mold at a constant fibre weight fraction (number of layers), mold pressure, curing time and temperature. The results showed that the composite laminate of mat fabric reinforced polyester provides the maximum tensile strength, elongation, flexural strength and thermal insulation of 22 MPa, 2.2 %, 54.6 MPa, 0.27 J and 0.012 m2°C/W, respectively. Meanwhile, the woven laminate exhibited the highest impact strength of 0.27 J and the hybrid laminates of the mat and woven fabrics offer satisfactory strength of 0.25 J.

The current study investigated the possible application of the FibreLux Micron MeterTM (FibreLux) instrument for the on-farm measurement of the diameter of greasy mohair staples. Initially, the effects of arrangement of the fibers in the specimen holder and that of solvent cleaning were investigated. It was found that a random arrangement of the fibers in the specimen holder produced more accurate and reproducible results, than when the fibers were aligned parallel (to the length of the specimen holder). The solvent cleaning had a statistically significant effect (p <.05) on the results, with the average of the mean fiber diameter (MFD) for the clean staple samples being 1.21 µm lower (finer) than that for the greasy staples. A good correlation (R = 0.95) was found between the FibreLux greasy staple results and those of the OFDA100 clean staples, the latter being used as the reference. The FibreLux values were, on average, some 0.80 µm lower than those of the OFDA100. It was concluded that the FibreLux holds significant promise for determining the fiber diameter of greasy mohair staples, but this should be validated by further trials, preferably "on farm" field trials, to determine the number of staples that need to be measured for each goat. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Simple Summary: There is an urgent need for a system that evaluates the welfare of the 5 billion farm animals involved in the textile industry. We aimed to create a risk assessment tool to evaluate the current state of the industry by assessing different textile standards that promise higher levels of animal welfare. Only 1 of 17 assessed standards reached an acceptable level of risk for animal welfare, with the rest falling behind. This shows that further work is needed when it comes to improving animal welfare within the textile industry, beyond depending only on the minimum requirements outlined by certifications. Nearly 5 billion farm animals, including waterfowl, cattle, sheep, goats, and alpacas, are being affected by the fashion industry. There is an urgent need for a system that evaluates their welfare. The rise in public interest on the topic of animal welfare is leading to the creation of different textile standards or certification schemes, which can give us an overview of the general state of expectations in terms of animal welfare within the textile industry. We therefore created a risk assessment tool and applied it to 17 different textile standards. Our results showed that only one of the standards reached a score in the "Acceptable" animal welfare risk category, and the rest of the standards had even lower scores of risks for animal welfare. In general, industry standards have not demanded sufficient requirements for higher levels of animal welfare. While the current risk assessment gave us a good idea of what is considered acceptable within the industry, it is also not necessarily representative of the risks for the majority of farm animals that are part of the textile industry. Only a small number of animal-derived materials are certified with some form of animal welfare standards, even though these standards can play an important role in improving the standard of care for animals. To evaluate the actual welfare states of the animals in fibre production, further research is needed to apply the proposed tool to actual farms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The skull is a vitally important complex structure formed by the combination of many bones. Craniometric studies are performed with various imaging methods to determine morphometric characteristics in animals. One of these methods is radiography. In our study, skulls of 14 Hamdani sheep, 20 Siirt‐coloured mohair goats and 20 Romanov sheep breeds were used. Skull sections were taken with a computed tomography device and saved in DICOM format. Nine separate measurements and six index calculations were made from the images. In the study, firstly, the gender difference was ignored and the similarities and differences between the species were recorded. In addition, gender differences were determined statistically, without making any distinction between species. Correlation analysis was performed to compare measurement parameters between animal species. As a result of the study, the highest skull length (SL) and cranial length (CL) values were determined in the Siirt‐coloured mohair goat. It was determined that the difference between Romanov sheep and Siirt‐coloured mohair goat in CL parameter was not statistically significant (p > 0.05). In addition, a statistically significant difference was observed between the Romanov sheep breed and the Hamdani sheep breed (p < 0.01). The external length of the cranium (ELC) measurement parameter was found to have a statistically significant difference in three animals (p < 0.01). According to the results of the correlation analysis, the highest correlation value was determined between cranial width (CW) and CL parameters (r = 0.920). When the species difference was ignored, and the statistical difference of the internal height of the cranium (IHC) parameter was found to be significant between female and male animals (p < 0.05). In addition, it was determined that SL, CW and internal cranium index (ICI) parameters had a significant difference depending on sex (p < 0.01). It is foreseen that the obtained data can be used in sciences such as zoo archaeology, anatomy, surgery and forensic medicine. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In diabetic patients, optimised plantar health necessitates meticulously designed hosiery. These specialised socks facilitate a healthy microclimate at the skin–textile interface. This requires that stable conditions of temperature and humidity are maintained during wear. This study investigated the thermal resistance and moisture management properties of socks for diabetics. Fabrics and socks were evaluated on the Alambeta and thermal foot manikin instruments and in wear trials. A novel in vitro method, mimicking in-use conditions, was employed to validate findings and assess sock performance during wear. Fabric structure, especially thickness, had a greater impact on thermal resistance than fibre composition, suggesting that socks with different levels of thermal resistance can be customised according to individual preferences. In terms of moisture management, mohair–wool socks outperformed polyester socks, maintaining significantly lower humidity between the skin and the sock, and meeting the requirement to prevent the drying out of the microclimate significantly better. The enhanced moisture vapour sorption exhibited by the mohair–wool fabric contributes to this effect. Overall, the findings suggest that mohair–wool is an excellent fibre choice for diabetic socks, due to its unique moisture management properties and the possibility to tailor thermal properties through fabric structural design.

Twenty-two pluriparous single-foetus-bearing Angora goats, housed 3 weeks pre-partum in mid-December, and in transition from pregnancy to lactation were used to test the efficacy of post-partum supplementation (Group S: 11 goats) or not (Group C: 11 goats) with 300 g/head/day of whole field bean seeds (WFBS) to a diet based on mixed hay ad libitum and natural pasture. The goats were maintained with the suckling of their kids for 90 days. Significant decreases in liveweight (LW) and body condition score (BCS), were documented post-parturition in both groups and were then maintained throughout. These suggest a mobilisation in body tissue that was not mitigated by WFBS supplementation. However, the faster growth of the suckled kids and greater elongation of mohair fibre recorded (Group S > Group C), suggested improvement in partition towards production indices of lactation and hair fibre deposition, respectively. Greater concentrations of total thyroid hormones, T3 and T4 in supplemented does were recorded. Overall mean (pre-prandial) plasma insulin concentrations, not different between treatments, decreased (p

Wool and mohair fiber bundles were analyzed using a Fourier transform (FT) Raman system, equipped with a Nd:YAG excitation laser (1064 nm), with the aim of determining whether such a system can be used to distinguish between the two fiber types in practice. Wool and mohair fibers were found to have virtually identical Raman spectra, except for the relative peak heights of certain chemical bands. Nevertheless, the individual values of the wool and mohair peak height ratios B (I1655/I1450), C (I1004/I1450), E (I936/I1450), F (I644/I1450) and G (I622/I1450) varied and overlapped considerably although the mean values of two of the most promising ratios; namely A (I2932/I1450) and D (I508/I1450) differed statistically significantly (p

The study involved over 1400 mohair sale lots, representative of two different growing seasons Winter and Summer for each of the two different years (2010 and 2015). The results of the two years (2010 and 2015) were generally in good agreement and could, for all practical purposes, be treated as one population. It was found that, as expected and is well known, the number of objectionable medullated fibers (kemp type) were highest in the Kid mohair produced in the first shearing (i.e. approximately 6 months after birth). Furthermore, the total number of flat and objectionable medullated fibers was related to the mean fiber diameter and the width of the fiber diameter distribution (CVD) of the sample but could not be predicted accurately from the latter values. The effect of goat age on the various types of medullated fibers could generally be explained in terms of associated changes in mean fiber diameter and diameter distribution.

In this study, dyeing effects on the physical properties of blended fabrics containing different ratios of wool and mohair fibers were investigated in detail. Six types of fabrics were produced by using 100% wool yarns and 100% mohair yarns separately in either direction with different sequences. Then the fabrics were dyed with a wool reactive dye and physical properties were investigated before and after dyeing process. As a result of the study, wool/mohair blended fabrics could be used in the lightweight suitings since adding mohair in the fabric composition made the fabrics stiffer, less drapeable, more air permeable. Another important finding was that the color yield values of both front and back sides of the 50/50% blended fabrics were found to be quite close. From this point of view, if wool and mohair yarns were used symmetrically in the fabric structure, it would be possible to dye blended fabric uniformly in one bath. Otherwise, in case of weaving fabrics according to various designs using wool and mohair yarns separately in either direction unsymmetrically, two different tones could be obtained on the same fabric, known as a bicolor effect.

The current study reports on using ascorbic acid as a possible substitute for improving fastness properties of natural dyes. In the mordanting process, microwave energy, which is a part of the sustainable and ecological production approach, was used. Renewable natural dye source Candelariella reflexa, which is a genus of lichen, was obtained from the trunk of Pinus nigra. Mohair fiber was dyed with natural dye extracted from Candelariella reflexa by using a conventional method. Before dyeing, mohair fiber was subjected to the premordanted process with iron (III) chloride (FeCl3) using microwave energy. In order to determine the effect of mordanting process parameters on dyeing properties, the mordanting process was performed with different concentrations and durations. In the dyeing process, ascorbic acid was added at different concentrations in the dyeing bath to improve the light fastness of samples. After the dyeing process, spectrophotometric features, light, and rubbing and washing fastness of samples were investigated. The color strength, washing, light, and rubbing fastness of dyed mohair fiber improve slightly with the premordanting process and by adding ascorbic acid. The spectrophotometric measurement results show that color coordinates vary from the mordanting time and amount of ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the use of microwave energy in the mordanting process leads to saving of energy and time. Besides, in this study, a machine learning-based model exploiting the artificial neural network (ANN) was developed for prediction of dyeing properties of mohair fiber dyed with natural dyes obtained from Candelariella reflexa. Experimental data obtained through various tests were first used to feed the proposed ANN, and then the trained ANN was validated and tested for the aim of prediction. The study results show that the proposed model can successfully predict most of the dyeing properties of mohair fiber. Therefore, this model can be used as an effective tool to estimate dyeing characteristics of mohair fiber. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Twenty-two pluriparous single-foetus-bearing Angora goats, housed 3 weeks pre-partum in mid-December, and in transition from pregnancy to lactation were used to test the efficacy of post-partum supplementation (Group S: 11 goats) or not (Group C: 11 goats) with 300 g/head/day of whole field bean seeds (WFBS) to a diet based on mixed hay ad libitum and natural pasture. The goats were maintained with the suckling of their kids for 90 days. Significant decreases in liveweight (LW) and body condition score (BCS), were documented post-parturition in both groups and were then maintained throughout. These suggest a mobilisation in body tissue that was not mitigated by WFBS supplementation. However, the faster growth of the suckled kids and greater elongation of mohair fibre recorded (Group S > Group C), suggested improvement in partition towards production indices of lactation and hair fibre deposition, respectively. Greater concentrations of total thyroid hormones, T3 and T4 in supplemented does were recorded. Overall mean (pre-prandial) plasma insulin concentrations, not different between treatments, decreased (p < 0.5) from pre-partum concentration, and showed a pattern in time, similar to that of LW and BCS. Insulin appeared not to contribute to the suggested lactational and hair growth effects and possibly contributed to transition by a homeorhetic-type reduction in concentration post-partum. Mean plasma insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) concentrations trended lower due to supplementation from 3 weeks after kidding. It is concluded that WFBS supplementation was efficacious in improving production indices of the transition Angora goats. The feeding of different quantities of WFBS should be investigated. Supplementation of transition Angora goats with field bean did not affect the loss of body weight or body condition score occurring after kidding. Supplementation with field bean induced higher concentrations of blood thyroid hormones, without affecting post-partum reductions in insulin. Supplemented dams had a greater mohair elongation rate and their kids grew more, by likely preferential partition to hair growth and lactation, rather than other body tissues. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The emergence of the industrialization phases in the textile sector has made it important to reveal the unique aspects of the Turkish weaving tradition and the synthesis it has reached, from silk and wool weaving to cotton and linen weaving. The causal ties of the Ottoman weaving tradition with the past and the historical projections that have reached today have not yet been evaluated from a general point of view. This evaluation can only be possible with the researches to be carried out on the sub-types of the weaving tradition. In this context, it is important to reveal the general adventure of the Ankara shawl, which is referred to as the Engürü shawl in the Ottoman archive documents. Ankara shawl is the most important production commodity in Ankara, from the end of the 17th century to the 19th century and is the most demanded fabric by elite groups after quality silk fabrics. The first document in which the Ankara shawl was identified is dated 1715, while the last document is dated 1863. After 1790, the density of documents related to the Ankara shawl has been increasing. There are many signs that suggest that the Ankara shawl weaving technique was produced as a result of technical progress in the weaving technique of mohair fabric. Ankara mohair fabric is a type of weaving completely unique to the weaving technique from yarn raw material. Ankara shawl is a fabric woven from the same thread as mohair, in a period from the end of the 17th century to the first half of the 19th century, it was understood that summer clothes were made from Ankara shawl in cities such as Istanbul and Bursa. Navy and Saray are among those who demand the Ankara shawl. It has been determined that a white Ankara shawl was produced as a flag fabric for the Navy. The role of Muslim women in the production of fabric in Ankara is also reflected in the documents. Since the 19th century, important regulations regarding the production of shawls have been made in Ankara against imported shawl fabrics, but these measures have not been successful. It is also seen in the documents that shawls of European origin started to be in demand in Ottoman cities, especially in Istanbul, since the second half of the 19th century. It is understood that there was a very rapid decline in Ankara shawl production between 1830 and1840. Considering that the problem was due to the instability of quality and price instability, the Ottoman administration wanted Ankara shawl to be produced in standard size and quality and to be dyed and stamped in the miri dyehouse in order to avoid tax loss. For quality and price stability, since the second quarter of the 19th century, fixed places were determined in cities such as Istanbul and Bursa, with the practice of monopolization, and control over the supply was established. While the place determined in Istanbul within the framework of the monopolization application is Yenihan, it is the Old Yenihan in Bursa. Although the heavy tax burden on the Ankara shawl is felt in the content of the statements in the documents, it was not aimed to protect a certain group by bringing monopoly with the practice of monopolization, but rather quality and price stability. Objections to the fixed space application determined afterwards were reflected in the documents on the grounds that it hindered the production ability. Ankara shawl; varieties such as hünkâri, berce, kaba shawl, harcialem mediocre shawl and edna shawl and colors such as narcissus, canary, samuri, squirrel, brown, blue, yellow shawl and white shawl were determined. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, the differences of the fabric properties produced from wool and mohair fibers were investigated. By using 100% wool yarns and 100% mohair yarns separately in warp direction and the same yarns in the weft direction with different sequences, six types of fabrics were produced. The handle properties of the fabrics were tested with SiroFAST. Thickness of the fabrics made of mohair fibers was higher than that of the wool fabrics and the fabric thickness increased as the mohair proportion in the composition of the fabrics increased. Due to the higher volume of mohair yarns, bending rigidity both in the warp and weft directions of the fabrics produced with 100% mohair fibers was higher than that of the fabrics produced with 100% wool fibers. Elongation values of the wool fabrics both in the weft and the warp directions were higher than those of the fabrics produced with mohair yarns. The highest shear rigidity was obtained with the 100% wool fabric. The results of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion showed that there was no consistent relationship found between the results of the fabrics with regard to the fiber type.

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Mohair is one of the most luxurious and best quality natural fibers. Recent developments focused on expanding the use of mohair in technical and functional textile products. It necessitated the need for an improved understanding of how the usage of mohair in fabrics will impact its thermal comfort related properties. Despite its popularity, little information is available on the quantification of thermo-physiological comfort properties of mohair fabrics. This study investigated the effect of fibrous matter composition and fabric structural parameters on conductive and convective heat transfers to study the thermal comfort properties of mohair fabrics. The results showed that fabric structural properties such as overall porosity, and specifically thickness, played a significant role in determining the thermal comfort properties of the fabrics. Fiber composition had an impact on thermal properties as the fabrics containing mohair or mohair/wool were consistently thicker, providing higher thermal resistance as well as resistance to the free flow of air that allows thermal convection. It may be concluded that the thicker structures of mohair or mohair/wool trap more air, providing higher thermal insulation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of this study is to investigate the changes in the number of Angora goat and the amount of mohair obtained from Angora goats, which is one of the Turkey's important gene sources from Central Asia to present day, between 1991-2019 in Turkey via different regression models and to evaluate the results. For this purpose, simple linear, quadratic, cubic, inverse, and logarithmic regression models are used in the study. In order to compare the regression models and determine the most suitable model, the square root of the mean squares (Root Mean Square error-RMSE), the determination coefficient (R2) and the adjusted determination coefficient (AdjR2) were used as comparison criteria. Accordingly, R2 values obtained from simple linear, quadratic, cubic, inverse and logarithmic regression models for the number of Ankara goats shorn are 0.628, 0.99, 0.99, 0.74, 0.90, and RMSE are 135288.27, 25651.46, 18966.20, 114681.75, 71592.54, respectively. For Mohair production, R2 values are 0.61, 0.98, 0.99, 0.75, 0.88, while RMSE is 208.99, 41.84, 32.64, 167.85 and 114.32 respectively. In the number of angora goats, R2 values are 0.70, 0.99, 0.99, 0.73, 0.93, while RMSE is 165264.22, 32818.49, 23410.64, 155421.63 and 79544.79, respectively. In parameter estimates, the most appropriate model according to the highest R2 value and the lowest RMSE value is the cubic regression model. According to the cubic regression model, the estimated number of Angora goats that will be shorn, the number of Angora (mohair) goat, and mohair production in Turkey will be 254307 and 275431 heads, 268321 and 287846 heads, and 439 and 474 tons in 2020 and 2021, respectively. Although in the coming years, an increase in mohair production is projected in Turkey, this is much lower than expected.

Livestock raising is an important source of income in and around Afyonkarahisar. Wool and angora obtained from sheep and goats were used in weaving and especially that the angora goat breeding is common in Seydiler that enables making of tülü weaving there. In the town of Seydiler and around of Afyonkarahisar, the ground clothes having fur appearance were called "Tülü" or "Filikli tülü". In the knots of tülü weavings, angora obtained from the angora goat was used and called as filik in the region. Mahmud Kashgari mentions shagpile weavings in Dîvânu Lugâti't-Türk. Tülü weaving that has an important place in the Turkish culture has continued as a cultural heritage in the town of Seydiler of Afyonkarahisar, and albeit decreasing, the samples of filikli tülü have come until today. Hand-spun woollen yarn was used in the warp and weft of the Seydiler tülü weavings and filik were used in its knots. Tülü weavings have an important place in Seydiler traditions. Tülü ground clothes woven with filik and prayer rugs are presented in the dowries of girls. Filikli tülü weaving is spread on the place where the guests sit on, and filikli tülü weaving is presented to a mosque for as a benefaction of a death person. The decrease in the number of sheep and goat bred in the region, immigration to cities, and mechanization have influenced the production of filikli tülü weaving. In the research, the aim is to detect the place and technical and artistic features of Seydiler filikli tülü weavings not produced nowadays in the traditional life and make this information a written source. In the literature review, it is seen that no research was conducted about filikli tülü weavings in Seydiler region before which increases the importance of this research mainly carried out in the field. The other aim of the research is to put the obtained data in writing and to be a source for the scientists that will carry out studies in the field of filikli tülü weaving. The materials of the research consisted of filikli tülü ground clothes and prayer rugs woven in Seydiler Afyonkarahisar. The subject is limited to woven filikli tülü weavings woven in the centre of Seydiler, and field research and literature review were used in the methodology of the research. In the research, interviews were conducted with 20 informants, and it included data on the filikli tülü weavings provided by 9 informants. A total of 11 filikli tülü weaving materials were found and 7 sample visuals were used. Raw materials of filikli tülü weawings and types of knot were detected and their widths and lengths were measured. The research included colorants used in the region and the coloring techniques used in coloration of filikli tülü weavings. Moreover, weft and knot rows were counted, and color and pattern properties were identified. In filikli tülü weavings, in addition to Turkish knot, implementations of ördekbaşı knot and hopping knot were found. Information that is detected about filikli tülü weavings in the town of Seydiler will contribute to the field. The research was conducted between 2019-2020, and knot drawing visuals were formed using a three dimensional modelling "Blender program" in drawing knot types. The obtained data is presented in the conclusion part, and some suggestions are made for the production of tülü weavings. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Angora goat is a small body size goat breed with white coat colour, horned and dropped ears. The study was conducted to characterize the trends of annual Angora goats and mohair production in South Africa between 1981 to 1987. Secondary data from 1981 to 1987 retrieved from abstract of agricultural statistics which was published by the Department of Agriculture, Land Reform and Rural Development (DLRRD) in 2020 was used. Descriptive statistics, Pearson's correlation and three regression techniques (linear, quadratic and exponential) were used for analysis. The results showed that there was an increase and decrease in annual number of Angora goats and mohair production. In annual number of Angora goats, the highest increase (+288) observed between 1984 and 1987 with 17.21 percent (%) and decrease (-75) was observed between 1983 and 1984 with the percentage of 4.29%. In mohair production, the highest increase (+1.8) was observed between 1985 and 1986 with 19.54% and decrease (-0.4) between 1982 and 1983 with 5.26%. The findings discovered that there was a highly positive statistical significant correlation (r = 0.95) between annual number of Angora goats and mohair production between 1981 and 1987. Linear, quadratic and exponential regressions were used to examine the trends and relationships between number of years and annual number of Angora goats, and between number of years and mohair production. Regression models were all statistical significant at P < 0.05 in annual number of Angora goats and mohair production. Regression results suggest that quadratic regression model was the best fit model in annual number of Angora goats with coefficient of determination (R2) of 0.88 and in mohair production with R2 of 0.94. The current study suggests that there was a trend in annual number of Angora goats and mohair production in South Africa between 1981 and 1987. This study will help Angora goat farmers to recognise the trends in annual number of Angora goats and mohair production. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The animal fibres such as mohair, cashmere and cashgora have a complex structure and affected by genetic variation of keratin associated protein genes as KAP 1.1 (Keratin Associated Protein 1.1, formerly known as B2A), KAP1.3 (Keratin Associated Protein 1.3, formerly known as B2C) and K33 (Keratin Intermediate Filaments Type I, formerly known as KRT1.2). Keratin-associated proteins play a significant role in identifying structural and mechanical properties of the hair and wool fibres. This study was conducted to detect genetic variation at the KAP1.1, KAP1.3 and K33 genes in indigenous Turkish goat populations using DNA sequencing method. The DNA of 100 individuals selected from 5 different native goat breeds (Hair, Honamlı, Kilis, Norduz, and Angora) that reared different regions of Turkey were used as materials. A total of 59 nucleotide variations and indels (insertion/deletion) of KAP1.1 gene, 15 nucleotide variations and indels of KAP1.3 gene, 16 nucleotide variations of K33 gene were determined in the studied samples. These nucleotide variations and indels have been causing changes in the number and sequence of amino acids. It is necessary to determine the relationships with mohair yield, quality and polymorphisms that are determined in KAP1.1, KAP1.3 and KRT1.2 genes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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The aim of this study is to determine the effect of the rangeland quality of Ankara goats fed on some natural rangeland in Ankara on the mohair quality. The research was carried out in 3 different quality natural rangelands in Ankara province. Crude protein, ether extract, Ca, Fe, N, energy contents and digestibility, in vitro gas production, and relative feed values of good quality rangeland plants were the highest compared to other rangelands, but the crude fiber, acid detergent fiber, and neutral detergent fiber were the lowest (p ˂ 0.05). In the study were used a total of 120 animals (20 males, 20 females in each farm) from 3 farms where Angora goats are raised in the region of rangelands. The mohair quality was determined in mohair samples taken from 6 month old, 1.5, and 2.5-yearold animals. Rangeland quality significantly affected mohair lengths, fineness, elasticity, tenacity, and clean mohair yield, in males and females (p ˂ 0.05). The highest values were obtained from goats fed good quality rangeland (p ˂ 0.05). The effect of age on these features was also important. The mohair quality (length, elasticity, tenacity) increased with increasing age (p ˂ 0.05). The effect of the rangeland quality on the nozzle number was not significant, but the effect of age was significant. and, the nozzles number increased with increasing age. The nozzle depth was affected by the rangeland quality and age. The nozzle depth has increased due to the increase in rangeland quality and age. While the mohair Ca, Mg, S, Fe, and N content of male and female goats were higher in goats fed on good quality rangeland, these were lower in goats fed low-quality rangeland (p ˂ 0.05). While mohair Na content positively affected rangeland quality in females (p ˂ 0.01), was insignificant in males. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The travellers who wandered across Ottoman State gave detailed information about the Angora goat. They investigated the goat as its origin and speculated on the possibility that it may have belonged to them with an orientalist point of view, but they accepted that it was brought by Turks from the Geography of Turkistan between the 11th and 13th centuries. They analysed the Angora goats in terms of appearance, the environment they lived, and their wool (mohair). They gave information about shearing of Angora goat, combing spinning, weaving, and fabric types. Yarn and fabric produced from mohair attracted the attentions in Europe and the rest the world. At the same time, taking the goat and raw mohair out of the country was forbidden. While the interests of the Westerners into Angora goat were in increase, initiatives to take the goat out of the country started in the 16th century onwards. They want to possess the goat and control mohair production. Exports of raw mohair and goat paved the way in the 19th century. Yet, the desired production from the goats which were taken to Spain, France, America and Australia was not gained. Production trials in British colonial South Africa have been successful. Thus, in the international market, South African mohair became a rival of Turkish mohair in the last quarter of the 19th century. Despite this, the quality of Ankara mohair could not be achieved anywhere in the world. The state banned the exportation of goat due to fluctuations in the mohair market, but this was not a certain solution. While the Angora goat, mohair, yarn and fabric were important sources of income for the people in Ankara, this situation gradually deteriorated in the 19th century. Domestic mohair enterprises could not compete against the machine production that developed after the Industrial Revolution. The unilateral processing of capitulations, 1838 Treaty of Balta Liman, and the availability of mohair exportation negatively affected Turkish manufacturers and domestic enterprises. While Turkish producers who feed goats decreased, producers and businesses lost their earning, and the state lost tax revenues. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]