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PurposeThis study proposes a garment modularization model based on an interactive genetic algorithm. The suggested model consists of extraction and identification of parts and the determination and implementation of connections. Rules and corresponding mathematical equations have been formulated for the part's extractions from the discarded products and connections for the redesigned products.Design/methodology/approachSustainability entices scholars and practitioners while referring to reducing waste to control environmental degradation. One of the ways to safeguard natural resources is to increase the reuse of old or discarded products. The current study focuses on the redesign process to improve the reuse of products.FindingsThe intelligent system proposed based on the modularization techniques is expected to simplify and quantify the redesign process. The model can further help in the minimization of wastage and environmental degradation.Originality/valuePresently, manual decisions are taken by the designers based on their memory, experience and intuition to extract and join the parts.

Images can carry more information than words, but the data space of images format is much larger than the text format when they are containing the same information. Therefore, how to efficiently compress images to improve their storability and transmissibility is one of the key research issues in the field of computer vision. Through consulting the relevant literature, this paper analyzes the development process of the current image compression technology, and introduces traditional compression methods and deep learning compression methods, while focusing on the compression methods based on deep learning. Through comparative experiments, this paper analyzes the performance of various types of neural networks in image compression tasks, and summarizes the advantages and disadvantages of various types of neural networks in compression tasks.

Climate warming leads to frequent extreme precipitation events, which is a prominent manifestation of the variation of the global water cycle. Using data of 1842 meteorological stations in the Huang-Huai-Hai-Yangtze River Basin and 7 climate models of CMIP6,the historical and future precipitation data were obtained using the Anusplin interpolation, BMA method, and a non-stationary deviation correction technique. The temporal and spatial variations of extreme precipitation in the four basins from 1960 to 2100 were analyzed. The correlation between extreme precipitation indices and their relationship with geographical factors was analyzed. The results show that: (1) in the historical period, CDD and R99pTOT showed an upward trend, with growth rates of 14.14% and 4.78%, respectively. PRCPTOT showed a downward trend, with a decreasing rate of 9.72%. Other indices showed minimal change. (2) Based on SSP1-2.6, the intensity, frequency, and duration of extreme precipitation changed by approximately 5% at SSP3-7.0 and 10% at SSP5-8.5. The sensitivity to climate change was the highest in spring and autumn. The drought risk decreased and the flood risk increased in spring. The drought risk increased in autumn and winter, and the flood risk increased in the alpine climate area of the plateau in summer. (3) CDD, CWD, R95pD, R99pD, and PRCPTOT are affected by latitude. RX1day and RX5day are affected by longitude, and other indices are affected by longitude and latitude. The extreme precipitation index is significantly correlated with geographical factors, and areas above 3000 m above sea level are more sensitive to climate change.

In this study, the anisotropic properties, including strength, deformation, AE response, and failure pattern of Hunan shale were investigated under various confining pressures. The triaxial compression results showed that the anisotropic properties of the shale are significantly influenced by bedding orientation and confining pressure. The failure patterns of the shale with various bedding orientations can be divided into 5 types under different confining pressures. 3DEC was used to simulate the excavation of underground structures in anisotropic rock. Based on the analysis of deformation and relaxation zone thickness, the influence of the anisotropic properties of shale on the void behind the primary support and the heaving diseases of invert was discussed. Using the anisotropic shale with the same maturity as that of the Sichuan-Tibet Railway, we hope that this work can have a great reference to the construction of such practical engineering.

Chongqing is a mountain city in western China, with complex geological environment, which brings many difficulties to the construction of large section underground projects. The construction experience of a large number of underground projects shows that ordinary engineering geological survey is difficult to meet the requirement of engineering design and construction. Therefore, on the basis of the initial survey, intensive drilling and coring work were carried out for the engineering area of the Guobo underground station with large cross-section to be built, and the basic mechanical, softening properties of the surrounding rock and in-situ stress field of the project area are obtained by laboratory tests. Based on the present experimental results and engineering experiences, it is proposed that the potential risks of Guobo station excavation include: ①bias pressure;②High in-situ stress;③Surrounding rock deterioration. The present study has practical significance for the design and construction of Guobo underground station, and it has certain reference value for the construction of underground projects in similar geological areas.

Rapid economic and social development has created significant ecological and resource problems in the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei (BTH) region, making it necessary to identify ways of implementing sustainable regional development. The interactions between water, energy, food, and ecology are characterized by a high degree of relevance and complexity. In studying the relationships between the four systems in depth and choosing representative indicators for each system, a comprehensive development model of the water-energy-food-ecology (WEFE) system in the BTH region has been established. The coupling coordination degree model was used to analyze the coupling synergy relationship between the WEFE systems in the BTH region from 2001 to 2020. The primary contributing elements determining the development of linked synergy in the WEFE system were investigated using a gray correlation model. According to the findings, Beijing’s total coupling coordination development level shows a gradual upward trend and is in excellent coordination; Hebei has progressed the most, experiencing a significant change from little coordination to good coordination; and Tianjin has had the least improvement, only improving from basic to good coordination. The exploitation of water resources and ecological protection of the environment are the aspects that have the greatest impact on the WEFE system. Additionally, the linked and synergistic growth of the WEFE system in the BTH region is significantly influenced by economic, social, and technological advancements in the industrial and agricultural sectors. The coupling coordination development of regional WEFE systems, which takes into consideration the synergistic optimization of many subsystems, is provided by this study as a scientific foundation.

Three dimensional (3D) warp interlock fabric becomes a promising structure due to its good mechanical performances. However, its complex manufacturing process can cause severe yarn damage and affects its overall final performances. The current study addressed the effects weaving process and warp yarn ratios on the multi-filaments yarn degradations and its mechanical performances while 3D warp interlock fabric manufacturing. Four different 3D warp interlock variants having similar fabric architecture, and yarn densities but different warp yarns interchange ratios were manufactured using 930dTex high-performance multi-filament (Twaron® f1000). The multi-filaments yarns at different weaving processes were tested for their tensile properties. The results show that the average tensile strength of twisted yarns show a decrement of 5.68% as compared to the bobbin yarns. Meanwhile, warping process also showed a 16.11% maximum breaking load reduction as compared to the bobbin yarn. Besides, the tensile strength of binding yarn after weaving process for samples 3D-8/0, 3D-8/4, and 3D-8/8 was reduced by 12.79%, 5.22%, and 14.22% respectively as compared to the yarn after warping process. In conclusion, yarn degradation inside the 3D woven structure was affected not only by the various process parameters but also by the type of fabric architecture made with different warp yarn ratios. These phenomena ultimately bring a great influence both on the yarn and overall mechanical performance of the final products. For this, further studies are planned to investigate the multi-filaments yarn degradation effect on the ballistic performances fibrous material as it is directly linked to the yarn performance.

Mouldability, along with other mechanical properties, is a very crucial material parameter in various technical textile applications, from composites to soft body armour products. Moreover, the mouldability and recovery behaviours of the material will be affected by various internal and external paramters before, during and after the forming process. The current research particularly tried to study the effects of blank-holder pressure (BHP) and the number of layers not only on the moulding characterstics but also on the recovery behaviour of plain woven p-aramid fabrics made from a high-performance yarn with a linear density of 930 dTex. Samples with various numbers of layers were arranged in the same orientation for the moulding process. The moulding approach utilised a specific moulding device in a low-speed forming process and a predefined semi-hemispherically shaped punch for all specimens.Various important dry textile material moulding characteristics and, most importantly, the moulding recovery properties, such as warp and weft direction drawing-in recovery, center high-point recovery, shear angle recovery etc. were investigated.

The shopping mall concept has emerged to provide unique mall facets to satisfy consumers that search for the ultimate shopping experience. Under one roof different sellers are assembled together with food outlets and entertainment to fulfill the requirements of consumers. Gradually an awareness of over-consumption has risen together which calls for reuse activities that reduce the consumption of new products. As an answer to the concept of a mall for sustainable practice, a recycling mall has been developed in Eskilstuna, Sweden. This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of the recycling mall and its encompassing reverse value chain activities. This is primarily done in two phases i.e., first to understand the backend operations by visiting collecting and sorting facilities and secondly to comprehend the perspectives of the management team by interviewing them. The findings from the current study suggest that the unique concept of recycling mall create a positive awareness among the customers to reuse, repair and redesign used products. An individual gets a unique experience to donate and purchase clothes, sports equipment, and construction material under one roof

Conductive elastic fabrics are desirable in wearable electronics and related applications. Highly elastic conductive polyamide/lycra knitted fabric was prepared using intrinsically conductive polymer poly (3, 4-ethylenedioxythiophene) (PEDOT) blended with polyelectrolyte poly (styrene sulfonate) (PSS) using easily scalable coating and immersion methods. The effects of these two methods of treatments on uniformity, electromechanical property, stretchability, and durability were investigated. Different grades of waterborne polyurethanes (PU) were employed in different concentrations to improve the coating and adhesion of the PEDOT:PSS on the fabric. The immersion method gave better uniform treatment, high conductivity, and durability against stretching and cyclic tension than the coating process. The surface resistance increased from ~1.7 and ~6.4 Ω/square at 0% PU to ~3.7 and ~12.6 Ω/square at 50% PU for immersion and coating methods, respectively. The treatment methods as well as the acidic PEDOT:PSS did not affect the mechanical properties of the fabric and the fabric show high strain at break of ~650% and remain conductive until break. Finally, to assess the practical applicability of the treated fabric for wearable e-textiles, the change in surface resistance was assessed by cyclically stretching 10 times at 100% strain and washing in a domestic laundry for 10 cycles. The resistance increases only by a small amount when samples were stretched cyclically at 100% strain and the samples show good durability against washing. Quality inspection and evaluation of functional or smart textile fabric surface by skin contact mechanics

This paper aims to predict the hand values (HVs) and total hand values (THVs) of functional fabrics by applying the fuzzy logic model (FLM) and artificial neural network (ANN) model. Functional fabrics were evaluated by trained panels employing subjective evaluation scenarios. Firstly, the FLM was applied to predict the HV from finishing parameters; then, the FLM and ANN model were applied to predict the THV from the HV. The estimation of the FLM on the HV was efficient, as demonstrated by the root mean square error (RMSE) and relative mean percentage error (RMPE); low values were recorded, except those bipolar descriptors whose values are within the lowermost extreme values on the fuzzy model. However, the prediction performance of the FLM and ANN model on THV was effective, where RMSE values of ∼0.21 and ∼0.13 were obtained, respectively; both values were within the variations of the experiment. The RMPE values for both models were less than 10%, indicating that both models are robust, effective, and could be utilized in predicting the THVs of the functional fabrics with very good accuracy. These findings can be judiciously utilized for the selection of suitable engineering specifications and finishing parameters of functional fabrics to attain defined tactile comfort properties, as both models were validated using real data obtained by the subjective evaluation of functional fabrics.

Subjective and objective evaluations of the handle of textile materials are very important to describe its tactile comfort for next-to-skin goods. In this paper, the applicability of artificial neu ...

The present paper aims to investigate the practice of upcycling and redesign. The study draws on the multiple organizations involved in the redesigning activities. The organizations selected for the study are located in the northern part of Romania. Semi-structured interviews along with direct observations were used to collect information. The paper provides practical insights to upcycling process.Various kinds of redesigned products are made out of consumer and industrial wastes such as redesigned clothes, accessories for ladies, handbags, ladies purses and office stationery. Upcycling is generally considered as economically non-feasible. However, this study has found contradictory results. The demand-based redesign activities can help an organization to earn a profit. Two out of three selected organizations are able to self-sustain. One of the organizations is newly entered into the Romanian used clothing markets and ables to compete with existing players. This study could be seen as one of the early attempts to empirically explore the practice of textile and accessories upcycling practice in Eastern Europe. The findings from the current case study can provide several useful insights for other similar companies to make redesign activities profitable.

The design of assembly line layout is one of the most important influential factors for the company's performance. The inappropriate arrangement of the order of workstations in the assembly line could cause the excessive movement of the material. In order to increase productivity and reduce production cost, a multi-objective optimization model with minimum the transfer distance of semi-finished products and the total area of assembly line was established in this paper. The Non-dominated Sorting Genetic Algorithm-II was applied to obtain the results of this model. The coding method, genetic operation and fitness function for three different kinds of sewing assembly line layouts (multi-line, U-shape two-line and U-shape three-line) were studied, while the workstations were organized in three ways: the order of processes, the type of machines, and the components of garment. The efficiency of the model was verified by the practice of sewing assembly lines for men's shirt. The layout schemes are compared with other algorithms. The results illustrated that NSGA-II algorithm is an effective tool to solve the sewing assembly line layout problem. The transfer distances of semi-finished products in the multi-line and U-shape (three-line) layouts arranged by garment components workstation layout were short. The multi-line layout arranged by the type of machines workstation layout occupied the smallest area. The model is suitable for solving the layout problem of the garment sewing workshop in practice, shortening the production cycle, and reducing the production cost. A variety of assembly line layout schemes are provided for apparel manufacturers in this paper. Apparel manufacturers can select the appropriate assembly line layout based on the actual conditions of the workshop and product.

The far-infrared ray (FIR) is one kind of electromagnetic wave employed for numerous bio-interactive applications such as body thermoregulation, infrared therapy, etc. Tuning the FIR-emitting property of the functional textile surface can initiate a new horizon to utilize this property in sportswear or even smart textiles. Ceramic particles were studied for their unique ability to constantly emit FIR rays. The purpose of this research is to characterize the FIR emission properties and the thermogravimetric analysis of ceramic-embedded polyurethane films. For this purpose, ceramic particles such as aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide, and titanium dioxide were incorporated (individually) with water-based polyurethane (WPU) binder by a sonication technique to make a thin layer of film. Significant improvement in FIR emissive property of the films was found when using different ceramic particles into the polyurethane films. Reflection and transmission at the FIR range were measured with a gold integrating sphere by Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometer. The samples were also characterized by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Different physical tests, such as tensile strength and contact angle measurements, were performed to illustrate the mechanical properties of the films. The study suggested that the mechanical properties of the polyurethane films were significantly influenced by the addition of ceramic particles.

Traceability has emerged as a prime requirement for a multi-tier and multi-site production. It enables visibility and caters to the consumer requirements of transparency and quality assurance. Textile and clothing industry is one such example that requires traceability implementation to address prevailing problems of information asymmetry and low visibility. Customers find it difficult to access product data that can facilitate ethical buying practices or assure product authenticity. Besides, it is challenging for stakeholders to share crucial information in an insecure environment with risk of data manipulations and fear of losing information advantage. In this context, this study investigates and proposes a blockchain-based traceability framework for traceability in multi- tier textile and clothing supply chain. It conceptualizes the interaction of supply chain partners, and related network architecture at the organizational level and smart contract and transaction validation rules at the operational level. To illustrate the application of the proposed framework, the study presents an example of organic cotton supply chain using blockchain with customized smart contract and transaction rules. It finally demonstrates the applicability of the developed blockchain by testing it under two parameters. The proposed system can build a technology-based trust among the supply chain partners, where the distributed ledger can be used to store and authenticate supply chain transactions. Further, the blockchain-based traceability system would provide a unique opportunity, flexibility, and authority to all partners to trace-back their supply network and create transparent and sustainable supply chain. QC 20210326QC 20210505

For the past many decades’ enormous research has been done on mechanical and moulding properties of 2D woven and non-woven fabrics. The current paper presents a comprehensive investigation of the tensile, bending and moulding behaviours of 3D orthogonal warp interlock fabrics with different fabric densities. Four 3D warp interlock fabrics with different areal density made from 168Tex linear density p-aramid Kevlar yarn were manufactured on dobby loom in GEMTEX laboratory. Based on the investigation both fabric density and yarn density shows a significant effect on bending and tensile properties of the fabrics. The bending rigidity in the warp and weft directions become higher in preforms with denser weft and warp yarn densities respectively. In general, as the yarn density in the respective warp or/and weft direction increases, the maximum tensile load with maximum strain increases. Moreover, the fabric and yarn density has also shown a great impact on various mouldability characteristics of 3D warp interlock preforms while deformation. The study finally elucidated that, like other parameters, fabric and the yarn density of 3D warp interlock influenced greatly the tensile, bending and moulding properties where those parameters should be considered carefully while applying in various technical textile applications i.e., soft body armour.

Although an increasing number of researches regarding inter-organizational supply chain collaboration (SCC) were conducted, the resource sharing (RS) in SCC is still an under-explored subject. Many RS models are successfully applied in various industries for improving the efficiency of manufacturing. Meanwhile, due to the demand of higher flexibility in the garment production recently, RS has become a novel method in order to optimize the industrial organization. This study explored the feasibility of applying RS in the manufacturing stage of garment supply chain. A KPI based on extended ANP approach was designed to evaluate overall performance of different RS scenarios. Furthermore, a simulation-based heuristic was developed to generate and optimize RS scenario. Finally, experiments based on a discrete-event simulation model of garment production were conducted to examine the performance of all RS scenarios. By comparing the outputs of RS scenario and traditional scenario, the simulation shows that garment manufacturers could get great benefits by applying RS. We also found that the opener garment manufacturers towards RS, the more benefits they can obtain.

Trying virtual garments on a virtual body has become widespread in the design industry as a result of 3D computer-aided design (CAD) system and progress in body measurement systems. Spending less time and cost compared to traditional methods of garment design is the main benefit of design software development. Moreover, it leads to improved garment fitting on the body which fulfills customer desires. In the present study, a parametric graphical method was utilized to develop a 3D virtual mannequin for the pregnancy period. The former, the 3D adaptive mannequin model was predicted based on a woman&rsquo, s weight by analyzing body morphology evolution of a pregnant woman. The mannequin was verified by the results of another pregnant body. Then, the developed mannequin based on weight gain during maternity was applied to design a garment block pattern. The virtual try-on of the developed garment block pattern suggested that it was well-fitted on the 3D virtual mannequin while two armpit darts and two elastic seams were allocated. Hence, the developed garment block pattern will be used to make a personalized protective garment in our future work using an electromagnetic shielding woven fabric formerly manufactured by our group.

Significant efforts have been made so far to improve the overall performance of female soft body armor. However, still designing female soft body armor which accommodates the bust area for different women morphological differences with good comfort, fitness, and better ballistic protection is in its great demand. This research paper presents an efficient reverse engineering approach (2D-3D-2D pattern generation) for developing appropriate 2D patterns from 3D female adaptive virtual mannequin for female soft body armor seamless front panel. The method was mainly used to attain the required bust volume in the pattern by eliminating the involvement of darts and another design element. Before the process, using computer-aided design (CAD), parameterization has been applied to develop a female model with an adaptive bust from a scanned body. The method starts with identifying the different strategic anthropometric points on the front body side contours of adaptive mannequin using specific 90B size bust cup. Based on these points, delimiting of the outer contour of the pattern has been done. Later, horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) projection grids in front of the virtual mannequin were marked to generate block pattern using curve measurement from the body couture, while during projection, an accurate measurement using precise projection system and bust points has been considered. Finally, the material deformation has been also analyzed using classical 3D-to-2D flattened pattern. The result shows that the new flattened pattern reveals better shape to accommodate the deformation with low distortion throughout the fabric surface while flattening. This will later greatly help to keep similar fabric distribution throughout the panel and give better ballistic protection, fit-ensured, and good comfort for the wearer.

In this study, effects of different stitching parameters on formability behaviour of multi-layerd para-armide panels were investigated. Different stitching pattern namely, Uni-axial longitudinal, Bi-axial straight, Uni-axial-diagonal, Bi-axial-diagonal, Edge stitch and Unstitched were used for binding different layers. Stitch length and gap parameters were also considered while formability using different values. Diamond quilted stitched with less stitch gap and short stitch length shows severe surface wrinkling and stitch thread breakage, whereas unstitched layers show a better deformability without wrinkling and stitch thread breakage. Similarly, diamond quilted stitched shows a very less drawing-in values both in warp and weft directions. As stitch density increases, the drawing-in measurement value reduced due the formation of more rigid layer to resist the deformation. Unstitch and diamond quilted preform possess the highest and least deformation recovery percentage respectivly. Moreover, deformation recovery percentage of the layers become very less as the stich gap and stitch length reduced.

Sensory investigations of the functional textiles could be an alternative for the quality inspection and control of the products. The purpose of this research is to use subjective evaluation technique for assessing the tactile comfort of some functional textile fabrics based on AATCC Evaluation procedure 5-2011. Blind subjective evaluations and visual subjective evaluations were performed for sensory investigation. Ten fabric-skin-contact and comfort-related sensory properties were used to evaluate the handle of the functional textile fabrics. The reliability of the sensorial data obtained by subjective tests was evaluated using statistical data analysis techniques. A minimum and maximum consensus distances recorded were 0.58 and 1.61, respectively, using a descriptive sensory panel analysis and proves the consistency and similar sensorial perception between panelists. The Pearson correlation coefficient between panelists was up to 96% and hence a strong agreement between the panelist’s judgment. The results allowed to consider the subjective evaluation using a panel of experts could be validated in the case of functional fabrics. For functional textiles, additional visual subjective evaluation should be considered to have a similar human perception in addition to blind subjective evaluation.