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Housed in a mobile library and archive, Viola Johnson's pin sash—a leather garment onto which hundreds of metal pins and buttons have been affixed—spotlights the terms of her expansive leathersexuality. Such a sexuality, for Johnson, is predicated on a notion of service that primarily manifests in the constant upkeep, revising, archiving, and presenting of leather history, primarily through the display and interpretation of her sash and library. After detailing the genesis and social milieu of the Carter/Johnson Leather Library and the significance of pins and buttons in leatherwear more generally, this article focuses on a button reading "The L.A.P.D. FREED the Slaves April 10, 1976." Initially made to protest the raid of a mock slave auction at the Mark IV bathhouse in Los Angeles, the button underscores the dyadic yet fungible terms of freedom and enslavement, and thus the relationships between sexual power play and non-consensual state violence. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Balkan & Near Eastern Journal of Social Sciences (BNEJSS) is the property of Balkan & Near Eastern Journal of Social Sciences (BNEJSS) and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The objective of the paper consists in studying the thermal behavior of chrome-free tanned bovine leather (wet-white), using a new product based on titanium and aluminum salts, compared with the same leather tanned by chromium salts (wet-blue). The aim is to find a possibility for replacing the wet-blue leather, containing Cr (III) salts, with the environmentally friendly wet-white leather. The thermal behavior was studied by dynamic thermogravimetry in nitrogen atmosphere, up to 700 °C. Global kinetic thermal decomposition parameters values were obtained with the isoconversional integral method of Flynn-Wall-Ozawa. The kinetic model best describing the thermal degradation process and the kinetic parameters for each individual stage were determined from non-isothermal data by means of a multivariate nonlinear regression method. The evolved gases analysis was conducted on a coupling to a quadrupole mass spectrometer and a Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometer equipped with external modulus for gas analysis. FTIR, microscopic, and elementary composition studies of residues were conducted. There was found that the differences in non-isothermal decomposition kinetics, evolved gases, and residue analyses were dependent on the nature of the two used tanning agents. It was observed that the wet-white leather exhibited lower thermal stability and temperatures of evolved gases. The metal concentrations in the residues and their porous and fibrillar morphologies recommend them as possible candidates for obtaining cost-friendly adsorbents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper is focused on experimental testing and modeling of genuine leather used for a motorcycle personal protective equipment. Simulations of powered two wheelers (PTW) accidents are usually performed using human body models (HBM) for the injury assessment equipped only with the helmet model. However, the kinematics of the PTW rider during a real accident is disturbed by the stiffness of his suit, which is normally not taken into account during the reconstruction or simulation of the accident scenario. The material model proposed in this paper can be used in numerical simulations of crash scenarios that include the effect of motorcyclist rider garment. The fitting procedure was conducted on 2 sets of samples: 5 uniaxial samples and 5 biaxial samples. The experimental characteristics were used to obtain the set of 25 constitutive material models in terms of Ogden parameters. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The role played by the Magdalenian site of El Horno in the context of the Asón river basin (northern Spain) is considered in relation to its location and the physical characteristics of the surrounding area. This information has been integrated with data from the archaeological study. Special attention has been paid to the lithic tools and mammal remains recovered in the excavation as these played a particularly significant role at the site. The results suggest that the cave was occupied on a relatively stable basis although the situation changed in the course of the sequence. Level 1 reflects an occupation linked to the acquisition of meat and animal skins, worked mainly in a fresh state. The use of the site represented by Level 2 may have been more stable and complex, as this level displays greater functional diversity. Tasks involving hard animal material have been documented, as well as dry hide or leather processing. In addition, lithic reduction seems to have been more intense in Level 2. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Journal of Textiles & Engineers / Tekstil ve Mühendis is the property of Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers & Architects, Chamber of Textile Engineers and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Denmark has an extraordinarily large and well-preserved collection of archaeological skin garments found in peat bogs, dated to approximately 920 BC – AD 775. These objects provide not only the possibility to study prehistoric skin costume and technologies, but also to investigate the animal species used for the production of skin garments. Until recently, species identification of archaeological skin was primarily performed by light and scanning electron microscopy or the analysis of ancient DNA. However, the efficacy of these methods can be limited due to the harsh, mostly acidic environment of peat bogs leading to morphological and molecular degradation within the samples. We compared species assignment results of twelve archaeological skin samples from Danish bogs using Mass Spectrometry (MS)-based peptide sequencing, against results obtained using light and scanning electron microscopy. While it was difficult to obtain reliable results using microscopy, MS enabled the identification of several species-diagnostic peptides, mostly from collagen and keratins, allowing confident species discrimination even among taxonomically close organisms, such as sheep and goat. Unlike previous MS-based methods, mostly relying on peptide fingerprinting, the shotgun sequencing approach we describe aims to identify the complete extracted ancient proteome, without preselected specific targets. As an example, we report the identification, in one of the samples, of two peptides uniquely assigned to bovine foetal haemoglobin, indicating the production of skin from a calf slaughtered within the first months of its life. We conclude that MS-based peptide sequencing is a reliable method for species identification of samples from bogs. The mass spectrometry proteomics data were deposited in the ProteomeXchange Consortium with the dataset identifier PXD001029. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Quality is an important aspect of the apparel manufacturing process. Although the basic quality of apparels mainly depends on the fabric properties, the type of thread used and selection of seams play an important role in determining the final quality of the apparel. Seam strength testing is basically an examination of the amount of pressure required to tear the seam of a garment. It is an essential parameter that determines the performance of a garment. For the perfect fit and look of a garment, seam strength has to be proper. It is therefore worthwhile to select the correct sewing thread size for good seam quality. The present work reports on an experimental investigation about the effect of different threads on the characteristics of leather. The other parameters, which are investigated, include seam strength, puckering and slippage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The challenge is described of devising a suitable treatment to hold the leather covering on a jousting reinforce or renntartsche in place while allowing flexibility of the leather. The piece, made for the court of Emperor Maximillian I for the Joust of War, dating from about 1500, was purchased in October 1952 by the Royal Armouries, having formerly belonged to the William Randolph Hearst collection based at St. Donat's Castle, Glamorgan-shire. The armour was brought into the Royal Armouries Conservation Department, Leeds, as part of a refurbishment of the Tournament Gallery, Leeds, in spring 2010. The leather covering was split and cracked and was lifting away from the shield's frame. As part of the conservation treatment, an x-ray examination revealed the unexpected reinforcement construction, the nature of which, and how that fits with accounts of the Joust of War in the pamphlet 'The Triumph of Maximilian I', are discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Research in general irregular-shape nesting can be used in confection industry for nesting leather and syntethic product parts. Today there are solutions for syntethic products, while solutions for leather products are still under development. Our research is oriented to improved footwear design efficency, while assister by computer. We treated almost each stage of footwear design, and we observed that our studies regarding economical efficency can be used also for nesting parts of syntethic products. However, the big goal is to create a professional nesting software for leather, but until then, nesting parts of syntethic products can be considered a small victory. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In 1965 Diana Rigg, aka Mrs Emma Peel, burst onto English television screens in the 'spy-fi' series The Avengers (Roy Baker, 1965) wearing, amongst other things, a skin-tight black vinyl catsuit. Her costumes offered a visual excess which reinforced the effects of the series' highly stylized mise-en-scène. This visual excess was also played out in public life, where Mrs Peel's clothes were available in retail outlets, and Diana Rigg as exemplary modern woman wore some of the styles both as public obligation and private pleasure. This article outlines the way the catsuit, as worn by Mrs Peel, is part of a technological nexus: its fabrication, its implicit and imminent activity and its sexual narrative. In her catsuit Mrs Peel represents and manifests the modern technological body, and this clothed body became central to conflict in The Avengers' narrative. But despite being strapped to a drainpipe or bound into a catsuit Mrs Peel was always firmly in control. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In 1960, women in southern Ethiopia's rural Konso district faced a violent campaign by local men to eradicate leather clothing following a ban imposed by the local governor, Tesfaye Hailu. Tesfaye, a man of the northern Amhara ethnic group, banned leather clothes along with bead necklaces and arm bracelets as part of imperial Ethiopia's “modernization,” which was influenced by disparate sources, including the United States. Tesfaye saw women's attire as “backward” and “unhygienic” and as obstructing modernization; its elimination was a means to improve Konso culture and help the empire join the community of modern nations. The “culture” of “the Other” has often been cast as impeding “modernity” and requiring elimination or change, particularly the practices of women, from genital cutting in eastern Africa to veiling among Muslim women in the Middle East and Europe (Hodgson 2009; Masquelier 2005; Merry 2009a). So it was with the widespread, politicized transition to cotton clothing in nineteenth- and twentieth-century eastern Africa. The target was clothing worn by all women in Konso and made by women in the low-status category of “Xauta,” sometimes referred to as a “caste.” Leather skirts signaled important stages in women's lives, and became extensions of individual women's tastes, experiences, and identities. Women today recall the violence and punishments of the campaign, including being chased, beaten, imprisoned, and fined, and even having their skirts forcibly removed at home and in public. They offer contradictory explanations of who initiated the ban and the reasons for it, but they remember clearly the local men involved in eradication efforts. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

Abstract: By c. 2050 BC a small community of C-Group Nubians was present deep within Egyptian territory at the city of Hierakonpolis. Their descendants stayed for the next 400 years. Today, the site of Hierakonpolis, 113km north of Aswan, is known for its Egyptian deposits; however, it also contains a C-Group cemetery, which documents the northernmost occurrence of this culture. Sixty skeletons were excavated. Tombs feature Nubian architecture and goods, including leather garments, although the use of Egyptian mortuary practices and artifacts increased through time. Dates range from the early 11th Dynasty into the Second Intermediate period. During this time the Egyptian empire occupied Lower Nubia, and their state ideology vilified Nubians. Yet, at least in death, the C-Group inhabitants of Hierakonpolis proudly displayed their cultural heritage. Beyond discerning the reason(s) for their presence at the site (e.g., mercenaries, leather-workers, entertainers?), the focus of this report is to estimate their biological affinity. Were they akin to other Nubians, Egyptians, or both? And, was increasing ‘Egyptianization’ evident in the mortuary ritual accompanied by concomitant genetic influence? To address these queries, up to 36 dental morphological traits in the recovered individuals were compared to those in 26 regional comparative samples. The most influential traits were identified and phenetic affinities were calculated using the mean measure of divergence and other multivariate analyses. Assuming phenetic similarity provides an estimate of genetic relatedness, these affinities suggest the individuals comprising the C-Group sample were, and remained Nubian during their tenure at Hierakonpolis. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Copyright of Romanian Statistical Review is the property of Romanian Statistical Review Publishing House and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)