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This research aims to present a design proposal that achieves the pi'inciple of zero loss, by producing an evening top made of lace material by using separate units of lace. Such top is used as an accessory that is matching more than one garment, which gives a different and new look to the clothes and helps to achieve sustainability. The design was produced by using Photoshop program to distribute the lace units in a manner inspired by the principle of self-similarity in fractal geometry to ensure compatibility as an aesthetic aspect of the product. As regards producing the clothing, the lace units were sewn by using the zigzag stitch. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article focuses on discussion of Clones crochet lacemaking, particularly the state's recognition of its practitioners and its history as one of the designated practices of "intangible cultural heritage." It highlights the social and, as Catherine Martin, Minister for Tourism, Culture, Arts, Gaeltacht, Sport and Media, pointed out, the "living cultural heritage" of the Clones work. It also mentions central aspect of the article and intangible cultural heritage is the social.

This article studies five shaped panels of Duchesse de Bruxelles lace, part of the collection of the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp. These handmade panels were created c. 1900 but never fashioned into a gown and, consequently, never worn. The first part of this article uses an object-based approach to examine how the panels might have looked if they had been constructed into a gown, what type of gown this would have been, to what occasions it would have been worn and by whom. In 2021, the renovated MoMu reopened with, in addition to its space for temporary exhibitions, a permanent display showing highlights from the museum collection. This unconstructed gown being a highlight of its historical lace collection, the museum is currently considering how to best exhibit it. The second part of this article therefore examines different display possibilities, ranging from a full reconstruction, to a deconstructed display, to the possibility of replication — all the while keeping in mind the ethics of conservation-restoration and display, and what it means to exhibit fashion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article focuses on the tools used in tatting, a lace-making technique, detailing the construction and materials of tatting shuttles historically and in contemporary use. It reports on the variety of materials used for shuttles, including wood, plastic, and precious metals, and it highlights the historical significance of these tools as fashion accessories, particularly among the upper classes.

Although a relatively recent invention (c. 1500), many legends have accumulated around the origins of lace, more than have been recorded for other crafts. Almost every region involved in pillow or needle lace had its own origin story: I will concentrate on those circulating in Italy, Catalonia, France, Belgium, and England. Lacemaking was a poorly paid, dispersed and overwhelmingly female occupation, but none the less it had a strong craft tradition, including the celebration of particular saints' feastdays. The legends drew on elements of this work culture, and especially the strong connections to royal courts and the Catholic Church, but they did not originate among lacemakers themselves. Rather they were authored by persons – lace merchants and other patrons – who in the nineteenth century took on the task of defending homemade lace in its drawn-out conflict with machine-made alternatives. Legends first circulated in print, in lace histories, newspapers and magazines, before transferring to other media such as the stage, historical pageants, even the visual arts. More recently they have continued to propagate on the web. While not originally oral narratives, they behave much like legends in oral storytelling environments: they are usually unsourced; they accumulate and shed motifs; they adapt to new circumstances and audiences. They were told with the intention of creating a special status for handmade lace, and to mobilize protectors and consumers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• The research has theoretically compared the restoration of two artworks made of polymeric material, determining their ontological status after the intervention. • It is necessary the hierarchization of the constituent elements of the entity, which can be both material and immaterial. • The conservation-restoration of contemporary artworks requires the study of the conceptual, biographical and material planes in each case. • The conservator has become, in the case of contemporary art, a facilitator of the experimentation of the entity and must know where the substantial lies and where the accessory lies in the artwork. • Decision-making must be based on knowledge of the relative importance of the different constituents of the artwork. The article describes the intervention processes carried out on two contemporary artworks and analyzing them from a theoretical point of view. The first work of art, Silere , is an ink transfer on a moulded polymeric material. The second artwork is entitled Pasos en Falso , and consists of an installation that includes a pair of shoes made by the artist, layer by layer, with vinylic latex. The laces of these shoes are made from human hair. For each of the cases, a description is given of the material plane of the artwork, a description of its conceptual plane and a description of its biographical plane. It then discusses the paradigm in which each of them should be placed, and provides a hierarchy of their constituent elements, both in the material and immaterial planes. Finally, the discrepant factors that have determined the decision-making process are discussed. The study focuses not on the description of the intervention processes carried out, although these have been described for later discussion, but on the theoretical analysis that helps to understand the decision-making process, a decision-making process that is specific to each case. And this, applying the most advanced theoretical concepts on which the theory for the conservation of contemporary art is currently based, which have made it possible to compare the two interventions. In addition, the artworks that serve as examples are particularly interesting, as they have been made with polymeric materials, which, at the time of our intervention, were in a very poor condition. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Cypriot culture is very broad and has lots of values. One of the biggest values is undoubtedly handcrafts in Cyprus. Within these handcrafts, Lefkara Lace plays an important role by being the most unique and the popular one, as it has been under protection of UNESCO since 2009. Despite being famous and unique, there are currently very few studies about Lefkara Lace, most of which focused on the techniques of producing Lefkara Lace and the history behind it. There were no studies in regard to its usage. Many patterns of Lefkara Lace had already been lost, due to not taking it under protection and due to lack of documentation. Most of the patterns are in danger of being lost and all of them are constantly changing due to workers and instant surroundings. In addition to this, the number of people producing Lefkara Lace is decreasing day by day. This research has been done in order to understand the usage of Lefkara Lace in interior decoration, to look at its usage in the past and now, and to predict how it will be used in the future. In order to achieve this aim, interviews with producers (Cypriot women) were held to understand their relationship with Lefkara Lace. Moreover, interviews with non-producers were also held to understand their attitude to Lefkara Lace. Interviewees were selected from age group of 25 to 70 to examine the attitude from different generations. In conclusion, in this research it was studied that the usage and the production of Lefkara Lace have increased mostly as souvenirs. However, the usage of Lefkara Lace in interior decoration has definitely decreased. Its usage is limited mainly to protect it and to be able to pass it to next generations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Keywords: museum; fashion exhibition; lace; haute couture; dress EN museum fashion exhibition lace haute couture dress 279 287 9 02/10/21 20210301 NES 210301 Lace has made a remarkable comeback in the past decade. The exhibition successfully manifests the reality in which the alliance between luxury fashion brands and high-end lace manufacturers further propels the potential of fashion and will continue to influence and echo throughout the fashion world. Museum, fashion exhibition, lace, haute couture, dress. [Extracted from the article]

Anticipating postdischarge complications after neurosurgery remains difficult. The LACE index, based on 4 hospitalization descriptors, stratifies patients by risk of 30-day postdischarge adverse events but has not been validated in a procedure-specific manner in neurosurgery. Our study sought to explore the usefulness of the LACE index in a population undergoing cranial neurosurgery and to develop an enhanced model, LACE-Cranial. The OptumClinformatics Database was used to identify cranial neurosurgery admissions (2004–2017). Procedures were grouped as trauma/hematoma/intracranial pressure, open vascular, functional/pain, skull base, tumor, or endovascular. Adverse events were defined as postdischarge death/readmission. LACE-Cranial was developed using a logistic regression framework incorporating an expanded feature set in addition to the original LACE components. A total of 40,431 admissions were included. Predictions of 30-day readmissions was best for skull base (area under the curve [AUC], 0.636) and tumor (AUC, 0.63) admissions but was generally poor. Predictive ability of 30-day mortality was best for functional/pain admissions (AUC, 0.957) and poorest for trauma/hematoma/intracranial pressure admissions (AUC, 0.613). Across procedure types except for functional/pain, a high-risk LACE score was associated with higher postdischarge bundled payment costs. Incorporating features identified to contribute independent predictive value, the LACE-Cranial model achieved procedure-specific 30-day mortality AUCs ranging from 0.904 to 0.98. Prediction of 30-day and 90-day readmissions was also improved, with tumor and skull base cases achieving 90-day readmission AUCs of 0.718 and 0.717, respectively. Although the unmodified LACE index shows inconsistent classification performance, the enhanced LACE-Cranial model offers excellent prediction of short-term postdischarge mortality across procedure groups and significantly improved anticipation of short-term postdischarge readmissions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, we seek to prove the equality of the |$q$| -graded fermionic sums conjectured by Hatayama et al. [ 14 ] in its full generality, by extending the results of Di Francesco and Kedem [ 9 ] to the non-simply laced case. To this end, we will derive explicit expressions for the quantum |$Q$| -system relations, which are quantum cluster mutations that correspond to the classical |$Q$| -system relations, and write the identity of the |$q$| -graded fermionic sums as a constant term identity. As an application, we will show that these quantum |$Q$| -system relations are consistent with the short exact sequence of the Feigin–Loktev fusion product of Kirillov–Reshetikhin modules obtained by Chari and Venkatesh [ 5 ]. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this article, we aimed to analyze the external assessment policies and the effects concerning "not learning" and "not teaching" as impressions of the blame and medicalization of education. Through a bibliographic study, we approached the theoreticalconceptual constructs that confront the classificatory logic of assessments within the policies area. As methodological procedures in the empirical field, we conducted dialogued interviews with teachers from a municipality in Minas Gerais. We highlighted the main directions and effects of the assessment policies marked by the neoliberal modus operandi that affected the organization of pedagogical work, students and teachers who are forced to conform to results and standards laced with market interests. In this case, the subjects who do not observe quantitative expectations are blamed and subjected to power devices that seek to fit them into the standards defined as normal and/or ideal, when explaining the medicalizing logic. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: This study assessed the ability of the LACE + [Length of stay, Acuity of admission, Charlson Comorbidity Index (CCI) score, and Emergency department visits in the past 6 months] index to predict adverse outcomes after urologic surgery. Methods: LACE + scores were retrospectively calculated for all consecutive patients (n = 9824) who received urologic surgery at one multi-center health system over 2 years (2016–2018). Coarsened exact matching was employed to sort patient data before analysis; matching criteria included duration of surgery, BMI, and race among others. Outcomes including unplanned hospital readmission, emergency room visits, and reoperation were compared for patients with different LACE + quartiles. Results: 722 patients were matched between Q1 and Q4; 1120 patients were matched between Q2 and Q4; 2550 patients were matched between Q3 and Q4. Higher LACE + score significantly predicted readmission within 90 days (90D) of discharge for Q1 vs Q4 and Q2 vs Q4. Increased LACE + score also significantly predicted 90D emergency room visits for Q1 vs Q4, Q2 vs Q4, and Q3 vs Q4. LACE + score was also significantly predictive of 90D reoperation for Q1 vs Q4. LACE + score did not predict 90D reoperation for Q2 vs Q4 or Q3 vs Q4 or 90D readmission for Q3 vs. Q4. Conclusion: These results suggest that LACE + may be a suitable prediction model for important patient outcomes after urologic surgery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We use the lace expansion to prove an infra-red bound for site percolation on the hypercubic lattice in high dimension. This implies the triangle condition and allows us to derive several critical exponents that characterize mean-field behavior in high dimensions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Oak lace bug (Corythucha arcuata) has caused increasing damage throughout Europe since its appearance in 2000. In Hungary, it has become a dangerous pest of Quercus species in recent years. They frequently appear on ornamental and fruit trees, either, but this type of damage is not significant. Castanea species are known as their common host plants in their native area, but in Europe, it was detected only in Bulgaria. In this paper, we provide the first record of oak lace bug on sweet chestnut (C. sativa) in Hungary, which represents only the second European data on Castanea species. The pest was found in Debrecen, East Hungary. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The North American oak lace bug (OLB, Corythucha arcuata) was first found in Europe in northern Italy in 2000, and up to 2019 it was recorded in 20 countries. Almost all Eurasian deciduous oak species are suitable hosts and the species can also feed on many other woody plants. At least 30 million hectares of oak forests provide suitable hosts for the OLB, meaning that the lack of suitable hosts will not restrict its further spread. Detailed studies on the long-term impact of the species are not yet available but there are many good reasons to assume that it poses multiple threats to oaks and oak ecosystems. In the long term, it may have negative effects on oak health, growth, and acorn crops. Many of other oak-associated species will likely also be negatively affected. So far, no effective and environmentally tolerable large scale control method is known for OLB. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Approximately 30 000 people undergo major emergency abdominal gastrointestinal surgery annually, and 36 per cent of these procedures (around 10 800) are carried out for emergency colorectal pathology. Some 14 per cent of all patients requiring emergency surgery have a laparoscopic procedure. The aims of the LaCeS (laparoscopic versus open colorectal surgery in the acute setting) feasibility trial were to assess the feasibility, safety and acceptability of performing a large‐scale definitive phase III RCT, with a comparison of emergency laparoscopic versus open surgery for acute colorectal pathology. Methods: LaCeS was designed as a prospective, multicentre, single‐blind, parallel‐group, pragmatic feasibility RCT with an integrated qualitative study. Randomization was undertaken centrally, with patients randomized on a 1 : 1 basis between laparoscopic or open surgery. Results: A total of 64 patients were recruited across five centres. The overall mean steady‐state recruitment rate was 1·2 patients per month per site. Baseline compliance for clinical and health‐related quality‐of‐life data was 99·8 and 93·8 per cent respectively. The conversion rate from laparoscopic to open surgery was 39 (95 per cent c.i. 23 to 58) per cent. The 30‐day postoperative complication rate was 27 (13 to 46) per cent in the laparoscopic arm and 42 (25 to 61) per cent in the open arm. Conclusion: Laparoscopic emergency colorectal surgery may have an acceptable safety profile. Registration number: ISRCTN15681041 (http://www.controlled‐trials.com). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The azalea lace bug (Stephanitis pyrioides Scott) (Hemiptera: Tingidae) is an invasive pest of rhododendrons and azaleas (Ericaceae: Rhododendron), which feeds on the underside of leaves causing chlorosis, reduced photosynthesis, and even plant death. While insecticides can control this pest, growers, landscape managers, and homeowners have requested softer alternatives. Augmentative release of predatory green lacewing Chrysoperla sp. (Neuroptera: Chrysopidae) eggs and larvae has reduced S. pyrioides , but large-scale implementation may not be practical nor cost-effective. Attracting naturally occurring Chrysopidae with plant volatiles may be an economical and convenient option. In this study, we tested whether volatile blends 1) attracted Chrysoperla sp. and 2) controlled S. pyrioides populations on Rhododendron spp. in farm or urban landscapes. Experimental plots contained different multicomponent lures placed aboveground next to infested plants. Adult Chrysoperla sp. other natural enemies, and S. pyrioides from egg to adult stages were monitored in both farm and urban landscapes for two summers. Overall, two out of three volatile blends consistently attracted Chrysoperla sp. to sticky traps near baited plants. Methyl salicylate + acetic acid + 2-phenylethanol (methyl salicylate blend) and acetophenone + acetic acid + 2-phenylethanol (acetophenone blend) captured more adult Chrysoperla sp. than control traps in farm landscapes. However, only the acetophenone blend was associated with a slight reduction of S. pyrioides. Additional research is needed to determine whether the phenology of the first generation of both species are synchronized for effective season biological control in the Pacific Northwest. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The exclusive attribution of the jurisdiction over Portuguese subjects in the Madrid Court of Philip I of Portugal and II of Castile to an alcalde de Casa y Corte showed the virtue of the extended royal domestic government, of oeconomic basis, for the lace of the kingdom of Portugal in the new gear of the Hispanic Monarchy. It also pointed out the restrictions of the Castilian nature extension, complementary mold of respect for the Portuguese, contained in the so-called statute of Tomar (1581). But it was an attribution that successive commissioners added to many others, a fact that contributed to its reduction and its conversion into a mere mechanism of estate protection since 1594. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, I revise the taxonomy of the lace bug genus Agramma Stephens, 1829 (Hemiptera: Heteroptera: Tingidae: Tinginae) from Japan. Two species are recognized and re-described: A. japonicum (Drake, 1948) described previously from Japan, and A. abruptifrons Golub, 1990, newly recorded from Japan. The previous records of A. nexile (Drake, 1948) from Japan are confirmed as misidentifications of A. japonicum. The host plant relationship is discussed for A. abruptifrons and A. japonicum. Photographs of living individuals for A. abruptifrons and A. japonicum are presented. A key is provided to facilitate the identification of the two species of Agramma distributed in Japan. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The paper focuses on the objects of cultural transfer present in the dwellings of the Carniolian nobility in the first half of the 18th century. It is mostly based on the analysis of probate inventories. The analysis shows that objects of cultural transfer can be found in almost all inventories. These objects, which concern different segments of domestic material and intellectual life such as clothes, pieces of furniture, etc., made the life more comfortable, fashionable, interesting and luxuorious and contributed to the individual and social prestige of the nobles as well as to their vanity. Most of the items from abroad came from the German and Italian regions, but we can easily find objects from the Ottoman Empire (carpets), France (clothes), the Netherlands (lace) or America (coffee, tobacco, chocholate). Important items in noble homes, which almost exclusively came from abroad, were books. Novelties such as coffee, tea, and chocolate point to more peaceful and intimate forms of socializing. The channels of cultural transfer include voyages of noblemen and noblewomen, contacts with friends abroad, the professional commerce and the strangers living or working in Carniola. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pest infestations in net-houses are not sometimes different from that under open-field conditions, necessitating usage of pesticides. To examine the hypothesis that bioagents may have more potential under restricted plant growing conditions, the predatory potential of green lace wing, Chrysoperla zastrowi sillemi Esben-Peterson (Neuroptera: Chrysopidae) was evaluated against the sucking pests of tomato under screen-house conditions. The rates of release were fixed as 4, 5, and 6 s instar grubs plant−1 and a total of 3 releases were made at 7 days interval, with first release at appearance of the aphid, Myzus persicae (Sulzer) and whitefly, Bemisia tabaci (Gennadius). The pooled data for the years 2018 and 2019 revealed that, the release rates 4, 5, and 6 grubs plant−1 were not statistically different in reducing the population of these pests. The factorial analysis based on the release rate and time of these releases suggested that single release of C. zastrowi sillemi at 4 grubs plant−1 was effective against sucking pests in tomato grown under screen-house conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Summary: Programmed cell death (PCD) is the destruction of unwanted cells through an intracellularly mediated process. Perforation formation in the lace plant (Aponogeton madagascariensis) provides an excellent model for studying developmentally regulated PCD. Ca2+ fluxes have previously been identified as important signals for PCD in plants and mammals. The fundamental goal of this project was to determine the influence of Ca2+ on the rate of cell death and perforation formation during leaf development in the lace plant. This was investigated using the application of various known calcium modulators including lanthanum III chloride (LaCl3), ruthenium red and calcium ionophore A23187. Detached lace plant leaves at an early stage of development were treated with these modulators in both short‐ and long‐term exposure assays and analysed using live cell imaging. Results from this study indicate that calcium plays a vital role in developmentally regulated PCD in the lace plant as application of the modulators significantly altered the rate of cell death and perforation formation during leaf development. In conclusion, this study exemplifies the suitability of the lace plant for live cell imaging and detached leaf experiments to study cell death and provides insight into the importance of Ca2+ in developmentally regulated PCD in planta. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The HOSPITAL score (HS) and LACE index (LI) are 2 validated methods for quantifying the risk of 30-day unplanned readmission after discharge. However, neither score has been validated in the neurosurgical population. This study evaluated the HS and LI in the neurosurgical population as effective predictors for 30-day unplanned readmission. We performed a prospective, cohort analysis of all consecutive adult patients admitted to the neurosurgical service between October 1, 2018 and May 1, 2019. Patient medical records were used to calculate HS and LI. HS defined groups as low risk (0–4), intermediate (5–6), and high (7–12); LI defined risk as low (1–4), moderate (5–9), and high (10–19). Data analysis used univariate and multivariate logistic regressions. The 1242 patients included 626 women (50.4%). The average age was 57.9 years, and most patients (86.5%) underwent surgery during their admission. In multivariate logistic regression, intermediate-risk HS was not predictive of 30-day readmission (odds ratio [OR], 1.04; 95% confidence interval [CI], 0.57–1.88; P = 0.53), whereas high-risk HS did predict readmission (OR, 2.87; 95% CI, 1.49–5.54; P = 0.002). Likewise, moderate-risk LI was not predictive of 30-day unplanned readmission or mortality (OR, 1.59; 95% CI, 0.88–2.85; P = 0.12); however, high-risk LI did predict unplanned readmission or mortality (OR, 2.58; 95% CI, 1.16–5.73; P = 0.02). Both HS and LI showed poor to moderate discrimination (C = 0.62 and 0.60, respectively). A high-risk HS and high-risk LI were predictive of 30-day unplanned readmission. Although neither score is ideal for predicting moderate risk for 30-day unplanned readmission in neurosurgical patients, both have some predictiveness that may be clinically valuable. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to examine LGBT exclusion from sporting institutions, examining this as a phenomenon which takes place in specific spaces within these institutions. Design/methodology/approach: A conceptual framework is developed which highlights the differences between initiatives to change heteronormative cultures at institutional levels and the levels of individual sporting spaces. This is applied to examples of heteronormative behaviour in sporting spaces and to diversity initiatives to promote LGBT participation in sport. Findings: The paper argues that change initiatives are only effective if they engage with individual spaces within sports institutions rather than at a blanket institutional level. Originality/value: The paper outlines links between similar findings in management and organisation literature and findings about sports organisations in the sports sociology literature. It outlines the role of institutions in both promoting LGBT inclusion in sport, but also in drawing LGBT participation towards mainstream heteronormative behaviours. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Premise: Lace plant (Aponogeton madagascariensis) leaves are remodeled via developmental programmed cell death (PCD) to produce perforations located equidistantly between longitudinal and transverse veins. Auxin has been implicated in other developmental PCD processes in plants; however, the role of auxin in perforation formation in lace plant is unknown. Here the role of auxin in developmental PCD in lace plant was studied using two auxin inhibitors N‐1‐naphthylphthalamic acid (NPA), an auxin transport inhibitor, and auxinole, a potent auxin antagonist. Methods: Sterile cultures of lace plants were propagated and treated with NPA or auxinole. Leaf length, leaf width, and number of perforations were then analyzed. Vein patterning and perforation area were further examined in NPA‐treated plants. Downstream PCD transduction events were investigated via spectrophotometric assays, histochemical staining, and immuno‐probing. Results: Lace plants treated with NPA or auxinole produced leaves with fewer perforations compared to their respective controls. Although NPA treatment was insufficient to completely alter vein patterning, NPA‐treated leaves did have significantly more atypical areoles compared to control leaves. Events involved in perforation formation in lace plant leaves were altered following treatment with NPA, including anthocyanin production, reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation, and the release of mitochondrial cytochrome c. Conclusions: Our results indicated that inhibition of auxin signaling disrupts several downstream features of the lace plant PCD signaling cascade and results in fewer or no perforations. Therefore, we concluded that auxin signaling is important for developmentally regulated PCD in lace plant leaves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, we present a taxonomic review of a rarely collected subfamily of lace bugs (Vianaidinae: Tingidae: Heteroptera), including the description of nine new species and one new genus, and a phylogenetic analysis targeting its internal relationships. Anommatocoris araguanus sp. nov., A. knudsoni sp. nov., A. schuhi sp. nov., A. serratus sp. nov., A. sucreanus sp. nov., Thaumamannia insolita sp. nov. and T. urucuana sp. nov. are proposed, in addition to the new genus Henryvianaida gen. nov. with its two macropterous species, H. colombiensis sp. nov. and H. machupicchuensis sp. nov. The monophyly of all vianaidine genera is recovered and their synapomorphies are highlighted. Comments on fossil forms and insights on the future of Vianaidinae taxonomy and systematics are also included. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

"Reflections on Bummock" explored and expanded upon issues arising from the residency and exhibition, Bummock: The Lace Archive, held at Backlit Gallery, Nottingham, in 2018. The symposium reflected on the work of three artists, Andrew Bracey, Danica Maier, and Lucy Renton, and how they spent two-and-a-half years researching the Lace Archive held at Nottingham Trent University to catalyze the creation of new artworks. "Bummock," which refers to the large part of an iceberg hidden beneath the surface of the sea, was adopted by the artists as a heuristic device to explore unseen or undervalued parts of archives to generate new readings, knowledge, and responses. Discussions included the artists' development of a "controlled rummaging" methodology to select items, and how the exhibited outcomes illustrated "the flipping of the bummock" to reveal the underside of the archive. The resulting artworks were idiosyncratic, referencing historical lace objects through traces of supplementary documentation, as opposed to replicating the more seductive, esthetic characteristics of the textile. Invited speakers Amanda Briggs-Goode, Deborah Dean, Sian Vaughan, and Pennina Barnett contributed alternative insights to working with the materials (and politics) of archives, based on their experiences as, respectively, a custodian, curator, historian, and writer. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper explores the lace design pedagogy that developed in Nottingham during the first half of the 20th century. It draws on teaching material and student work collected in the Nottingham Trent University Lace Archive and examines three sets of material in particular: portfolios of student drawing; a collection of lace draughts composed for teaching purposes; and student-designed lace samples. These materials are records of a learning process influenced by both a national education system and the local lace industry. While the former was concerned to reproduce a canon of ornamentation obeying certain design principles, the latter needed designers possessing specific technical skills and the ability to copy and adapt existing designs suitable for mass production and consumption. Lace design pedagogy encompassed the "principles' of design, the "technique" of design, and the "business" of design. In each of these fields, students learnt by copying, so that copying was, to some extent, both the method and the outcome of Nottingham lace design education. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article offers reflections on a pilot study that examined an incomplete set of mid-20th-century lace manufacturer's business records. The Nottingham Trent University Lace Archive holds the partial business records of W. J. Walker & Son Ltd., which offer an interesting insight into the industry in a complex trading period. The research interrogates these business records not to assess the profitability of the business but to evidence the large number of hidden hands, technology, and processes involved in the Nottingham lace industry. The breadth of the documents highlights the wide influence of this branch of the lace trade through direct employment and its external supply chain. Purchases include everything from soap to machine parts and thread to insurance, the latter including "war damage." Wages books evidence the planned wartime contraction of the industry as well as the names of employees. Documents from lacemaking trade unions and entries in the wages books can be read as vivid accounts of the variations in pay scales according to skill levels and gender. Correspondence from companies in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and Kenya highlights the international scope of the industry. This is further emphasized by the international lists of potential purchasers for the lace machines when the company ceased trading. The findings of this pilot study indicate that the business records of companies engaged in the lace trade, which are an under-researched area, are worthy of greater study especially in relation to their social history content. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Battle of Britain commemorative lace panel was made by Dobson & Browne between 1942 and 1946 to commemorate the famous air battle that was a pivotal moment in World War II. It is a huge piece of machine-made lace measuring 180 × 65 inches (450 × 163 cm). This paper considers the collaborative nature of the endeavor and aims to reveal some of the hidden heritage behind the lace. It also considers the myths that have grown up around the production of the panel and shows how these are refuted by the materiality of the lace and the capacity of the lace machines. As well as exploring the genesis and production of the panel, this paper considers a commission for a contemporary textile response to the panel and its associated archive material. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article addresses the part played by women and children in the machine-made lace industry in Britain and France (1810–60). Following Heathcoat's 1809 bobbin-net invention, the formation of a machine-made lace industry in the East Midlands and elsewhere was driven by the men who operated the machines, the "twisthands." But they were assisted by boy, who were expected to replace and refill the bobbins, and by women and girls who did most of the mending, embroidery, finishing, dressing, bleaching, and dyeing of the lace, much of it in the dark and damp rooms of houses. Working hours were long and toil was exhausting from a very early age. Although female lace workers featured prominently in local struggles, and were often highly skilled, they were nevertheless restricted to low-paid positions in the trade because of gendered notions of skill and occupation. When in 1841 Parliament discussed child labor, the regulation of hours was rejected for lace because of its domestic nature and because of competition from across the Channel. In the Calais area, British lace-makers had developed an industry much like that in Britain. But France was a different country, with a smaller-scale economy, and as a result was characterized less by the separation between home and work and the male breadwinner model. This article examines machine-made lace in view of the historical literature on the part played by women and children in industrialization in both countries. It focuses on the gendered segregation of the work and the respective wages of men, women, and children on both sides of the Channel. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This introduction highlights the connections and continuities between the articles in this special issue around the hidden aspects underpinning design and labor in the lace trade, over the period of the industrial revolution to the mid 20th century, across England, Belgium, and France. The papers draw on archival records, which include not only traditional text-based accounts, textile samples, and pattern designs, but also business records and songs, to uncover hidden information about processes, experiences, and labor, in the perpetuation of the lace trade over the period. "Missing Persons and Hidden Heritages in European Lace Making" demonstrates that examining these records will uncover the contributions and losses incurred by a range of hidden hands, bodies, and minds. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the uppermost shelf, three of his iconic red evening gowns hold sway, with the central spot reserved for one of Lomana's favorite dresses, originally designed for Princess Luciana Pignatelli in the late 1960s and reedited in the year of Valentino's retirement. The curator, Juan Gutierrez, stresses that he and his team have not had the chance to study Ms Lomana's personal wardrobe in detail, leaving open "the possibility of exploring in depth the many seams of which we have only been able to have a superficial glimpse"(7) (Gutierrez, [4]). 4 Gutierrez, J. 2018a. "El armario de Carmen Lomana: Moda, Museos y Coleccionismo", El Armario de Carmen Lomana. 2 The Museo del Traje was interested in the McQueen dress for the permanent collection, but Lomana declined, alleging that she wears it every Christmas (Salgado, [7]). [Extracted from the article]