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Abstract Thirty-five women were included in a clinical study to characterize the volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emitted by the skin during exposure to psychological stress. An original silicon-based polymeric phase was used for VOC sampling on the forehead before and after stress induction. Cognitive stress was induced using specialized software that included a chronometer for semantic and arithmetic tasks. Assessment of stress was monitored using a State-trait anxiety inventory questionnaire, analysis of participants’ verbal expressions and clinical measurements. Identification and relative quantification of VOCs were performed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Stress induction was validated by a significant increase in state-anxiety as indicated by the questionnaire, modifications in electrodermal activity measurements and the expression of stress verbatims. In parallel, a sebum production increase and a skin pH decrease were observed. A total of 198 VOCs with different potential sources were identified. They were categorized in 5 groups: probable cosmetic composition, VOCs produced by the body or its microbiota, environmental origin, and dietary intake. In our qualitative statistical approach, three VOCs were found to be correlated with stress induction and 14 compounds showed significance in the paired Wilcoxon test. Fatty-acyls derived from lipids were predominantly identified as well as ethylbenzenes.

Caveolae are plasma membrane invaginations playing crucial functions, like signal transduction and mechanoprotection. Here, the authors show that caveolae contribute to skin pigmentation by integrating the biochemical and mechanical response of epidermal melanocytes to extracellular cues.

The post-menopausal decrease in estrogen circulating levels results in rapid skin deterioration pointing out to a protective effect exerted by these hormones. The identity of the skin cell type responding to estrogens is unclear as are the cellular and molecular processes they elicit. Here, we reported that lack of estrogens induces rapid re-organization of the human dermal fibroblast cytoskeleton resulting in striking cell shape change. This morphological change was accompanied by a spatial re-organization of focal adhesion and a substantial reduction of their number as evidenced by vinculin and actin co-staining. Cell morphology and cytoskeleton organization was fully restored upon 17β-estradiol (E2) addition. Treatment with specific ER antagonists and cycloheximide respectively showed that the E2 acts independently of the classical Estrogen Receptors and that cell shape change is mediated by non-genomic mechanisms. E2 treatment resulted in a rapid and transient activation of ERK1/2 but not Src or PI3K. We show that human fibroblasts express the non-classical E2 receptor GPR30 and that its agonist G-1 phenocopies the effect of E2. Inhibiting GPR30 through treatment with the G-15 antagonist or specific shRNA impaired E2 effects. Altogether, our data reveal a novel mechanism by which estrogens act on skin fibroblast by regulating cell shape through the non-classical G protein-coupled receptor GPR30 and ERK1/2 activation.

When developing new cosmetics, it is extremely important to consider the safety of consumers. Absence of potential irritancy is generally assessed using an OECD TG439 compliant Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) systems and MTT assays, resulting in an irritant/not irritant classification. To gain insight into the irritancy of molecules/finished cosmetic products and to predict the outcome of irritation tests performed on subjects whatever their nature, we developed a test that uses skin explants and histological analysis. Results showed that this irritation test is sensitive enough to accurately and repeatably detect known irritants. If the diverse origin of the skin explants used led to variability in the histological alterations scored, the overall grading of irritancy is highly reproducible. Finally, when testing 120 non-alcoholic cosmetics of various galenic forms, comparison of data between the ex vivo irritation tests and of a 24-/48-h human patch test revealed a single false negative, very close to the limit, and a 10% false positive rate. It was not possible to calculate the sensitivity of the ex vivo irritation test; however, its specificity was 89.9% and its accuracy was 89.1%. Similar results, with a slightly higher false positive rate, were found when testing 49 alcoholic cosmetics. These values exceed the minimum requirements of OECD TG439., (Copyright © 2020. Published by Elsevier Ltd.)