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Objective: Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging., Methods: Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components., Results: Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones., Conclusion: The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment., (© 2024 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Rubber seeds, the abundant by-products of rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis), have been studied for sustainable utilization. Nevertheless, there is no information available regarding activity against skin aging. The study aimed to prepare rubber seed oil (RSO) and evaluate fatty acid compositions by gas chromatography - mass spectrometry (GC/MS), linamarin contamination by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography - tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS). Additionally, cytotoxicity assay and anti-skin aging activities, including cell proliferating stimulation, cellular antioxidant, collagen stimulation, and matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) inhibition, were analyzed in immortalized human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and human dermal fibroblasts. RSO was pale-yellow oily liquid with an extraction yield of 35.79 ± 0.52%. Principal fatty acids were comprised of oleic (43.37 ± 0.76%), linoleic (38.49 ± 0.81%), palmitic (11.47 ± 0.12%), and stearic (6.66 ± 0.05%) acids. Linamarin contamination was not detected in 100 µg/mL RSO, demonstrating the absence of a cyanogenic glucoside. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of RSO in both cells were in the range of 0.0001-0.1 mg/mL. Activities of RSO against skin aging included the cell proliferating stimulation, the antioxidant activity, the collagen stimulation, and the MMP-2 suppression at mRNA expression level and enzymatic activity. Study results have suggested that rubber seeds can probably be employed as a promising ingredient in the preparations designed for deceleration of skin aging., Competing Interests: Declarations. Competing interests: The authors declare no competing interests., (© 2024. The Author(s).)

Plants are industrially cultivated and processed serving for specified sectors for human consumptions including cosmetic and personal care products. Where, the consumers' awareness towards sustainability are increasing year by year. Among which, those of the materials derived from the plants produced with good agricultural and manufacturing practices abided with bio-circular-green economy theme, are of eminence. This perspective is in line with the researchers' bioprospective onto natural products. Special attention sheds on saponins, the biosurfactants that will not cause detrimental effects on the environment. Which, plants are regarded as the sustainable sources of these cosmetic substances. However, among tremendous plants that have been continuously explored upon their potential applications. Most of the studies focus on preparation of the saponins and biological activities. Surprisingly, those that are abided with the list published in the European Commission (CosIng) that are of crucially for cosmetic regulation are insufficiently demonstrated, which burden their applications in the sector. This context summarizes the industrial crops that are registered as plant saponin in the CosIng database. Those that are insufficiently exploited on the information required for cosmetic formulations are therefore encouraged to be examined. In addition, multidirectional cosmetic beneficials of the filled plants saponin would be encouraged to be explored. These plants will be properly knowledge managed for their sustainable utilizations as the bio-based materials promising for cosmetic and personal care industrial perspectives., (© 2024. The Author(s).)

Objective: Rice (Oryza sativa) bran waxes, the by-products of rice bran oil manufacturing, are widely used as inactive components in several preparations. Nevertheless, the function of rice bran waxes against skin ageing has never been reported. This study aimed to investigate thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes, including rice bran soft (RBS) and hard (RBH) waxes, and the activities against skin ageing in cultured skin cells., Methods: Thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes were analysed by differential scanning calorimetry and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, respectively. The cytotoxicity assay of waxes was performed in B16F10 melanoma cells, human skin fibroblasts and co-culture cells of HaCaT cells and human skin fibroblasts. The non-cytotoxic concentrations of waxes were evaluated for their activities against skin ageing, including melanogenesis assay, antioxidant activity, collagen content analysis, matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assay and anti-inflammatory activity., Results: Thermal property indicated the endotherm peaks with melting temperatures at 40.89 ± 0.27°C and 69.64 ± 0.34°C for RBS and RBH, respectively. The main fatty acids in RBS were oleic (31.68 ± 0.75%) and linoleic acids (27.19 ± 0.40%), whereas those in RBH were palmitic (36.24 ± 1.08%) and stearic acids (35.21 ± 4.51%). The cytotoxicity assay in single cells and co-culture cells showed the non-cytotoxicity of RBS (0.0001-1 mg/mL) and RBH (0.0001-0.1 mg/mL). The anti-skin ageing activities of 1 mg/mL RBS and 0.1 mg/mL RBH included the melanogenesis inhibition by suppression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 enzymes, the antioxidant activity by cellular protection against cell damage and cell death, the collagen stimulation, the matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 suppression and the anti-inflammation., Conclusions: The study results suggest that RBS and RBH can potentially be applied as the functional ingredients in formulations against skin ageing as well as provide the superior benefit on skin moisturization., (© 2023 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis) oil is constituted with macronutrients and the health benefit fatty acids. In this context, the efficient of Sacha inchi oil for anti-aging product is presented. The light-clear yellowish seed oil of Sacha inchi was revealed on its physicochemical properties that are in the same range of the commercializing plant-oil supplied for topical products. The oil was GC/MS exhibited to be constituted with α-linolenic (51.72%) and linoleic (24.3%) acids, with unsaturated/saturated fatty acids ratio of 21.26. The oil was noted onto its potent in vitro antioxidant activity assessed by ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. In addition, the oil (1-3%) was proved to be safe in normal human fibroblast cells. Furthermore, the oil exhibited cellular antioxidant with inhibitory effect against MMP-2. Sacha inchi oil is therefore highlighted as a potential source of nutraceutical especially for anti-aging product. The oil is specified for the product development in terms of physicochemical, chemical and biological profiles. Innovative processing of Sacha inchi is therefore encouraged as the promising plant for anti-aging product.

Tea (Camellia spp.) is an important medicinal herb. C. sinensis var. sinensis is the most studied tea variety due to its more preferred flavor than C. sinensis var. assamica (Assam tea), the less economic importance with more bitter variety. A bitter taste highlights its potential as a candidate source for tea catechins, the health beneficial actives applicable for ageing treatment. Nonetheless, indicative data for tea on UV-induced and senescent ageing remain unclarified. Assam tea extract (ATE) was prepared and standardized in terms of TPC, TFC and TTC. EGCG was HPLC quantified as the prime ATE catechin. In vitro antioxidant activity of ATE was exhibited with ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. ATE's cellular antioxidant activity was indicated in HDFs at a stronger degree than ascorbic acid. The photoaging protection of ATE was evidenced in a coculture of HaCaT cells and HDFs. ATE markedly suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 expressions. The proficiency of ATE targeting on senescent ageing was demonstrated in an ex vivo human skin model, where IL-6 and MMP-1 expressions were suppressed, whilst hyaluronic acid and collagen syntheses were promoted. ATE was chemically stabled as indicated by the catechin contents and color parameters following 6 months storage under conditions recommended for topical product. ATE enriched in catechins warrants its applicability as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent promising for the prevention and treatment for senescent ageing. The findings indicate the proficiency of ATE for innovative anti-ageing agent., (© 2024. The Author(s).)

Acanthus spp. have been documented in traditional Thai herbal medicine and are applicable for the treatment of inflamed skin with wound healing property. Nonetheless, the scientific evidence necessary to prove the herb's doctrine has not yet been revealed. Verbascoside-rich extracts of the herbal medicine A. ebracteatus Vahl., were therefore prepared. The extracts and verbascoside were examined for their wound healing abilities using a scratch assay with fibroblasts. The anti-inflammatory effect suppressing MMP-9 was assessed in cocultures of keratinocyte (HaCaT cells) and fibroblasts. The extracts significantly improved wound healing compared with the control (p < 0.001). The wound healing effect of the extracts significantly (p < 0.01) increased with increasing verbascoside content. It should be noted that the extract was significantly (p < 0.05) better than verbascoside at the same test concentration. The extracts were capable of protecting cocultures of HaCaT cells and fibroblasts from photodamage. The extracts significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed cellular MMP-9 secretion following UV exposure, showing a better effect than that of verbascoside (p < 0.01). A. ebracteatus extract is promising for wound healing and photoprotection, and a prominent source of verbascoside. Verbascoside-rich A. ebracteatus could be utilized for the development of innovative skin-care products., (© 2024. The Author(s).)

Background: Topical product derived from the fungus Cordyceps militaris was explored as a feasible method for an industrial practice., Results: The mycelium residue of C. militaris that was industrial biotechnological produced was extracted with water at different time conditions under ambient temperature, filtered and lyophilized. The extracts were all light to dark brown powder. The 24 h extraction was significantly (p < 0.01) highest in an extractive yield and total polysaccharides content (TPC) (43.33 ± 0.99% and 144.02 ± 2.06 mg glucose/g crude extract). This extract was proved to be stable following an accelerated stability test with the insignificant (p > 0.05) reduction of TPC (4.95 ± 2.23%). Topical product containing the extract were developed. Skin care preparation containing 0.2% extract was exhibited as the appropriated amount giving the stable cream. The developed C. militaris polysaccharide cream was confirmed safe and gained more than 70% of the overall preferences examined in 20 female volunteers., Conclusions: Cordyceps militaris mycelium residue is a beneficial source for pharmaceutical products. The C. militaris polysaccharides extract was prepared and qualified in terms of active content and stability. The extract was shown to be compatible with the available cosmetic ingredients. The safe and preferred C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics was developed. Accordingly, C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics that meets all the quality characters which are stable, safe, usable and efficient., (© 2023. The Author(s).)

Water soluble quaternized cyclodexrin grafted chitosan (QCD-g-CS) was synthesized by combining both beneficial properties of β-cyclodextrin (β-CD) and the chitosan (CS) backbone. The chitosan backbone exhibits positive charges, while the β-CD moieties are available to include hydrophobic guest molecules into the cavity. The present work demonstrates a formation of nanocomplexes by simple mixing of the cationic QCD-g-CS with three different molecular weights of anionic Hyaluronic acid (low, medium and high HA; LHA, MHA and HHA, respectively). The HA is well-known on providing hydration to the skin and normalize keratinization. However, its strong hydrophilicity limits skin absorption. The polyelectrolyte nanocomplexes between QCD-g-CS and HA formed through the electrostatic interactions were confirmed by FTIR. Particle size of HA nanocomplexes were greater than that of free QCD-g-CS and increased with an increase in HA content. The complex of LHA and MHA improve the water retention capacity as well as ability to control the release of HA to be slower than the original HA. The release of both LHA and MHA from their complexes were both limited diffusion kinetics. Pronounced effect of small particle sizes of LHA complexes was found to benefit skin penetration. Clinical study indicated that LHA complexes improved skin texture and elasticity due to an increase in skin hydration. It is suggested that the QCD-g-CS in combination with anionic hydrophilic HA can be used as a promising polysaccharide-based skin delivery system., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2022. Published by Elsevier B.V.)

Long-term UV radiation exposure can induce skin disorders such as cancer and photoallergic reactions. Natural products have been considered as non-irritate and potential sunscreen resources due to their UV absorption and anti-inflammatory activities. This study aimed to evaluate the in vitro ultraviolet radiation protective effect and anti-inflammatory activity of K. galanga rhizome oil and microemulsions. The chemical components of K. galanga rhizome oil was analyzed via gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. Microemulsions containing K. galanga rhizome oil were formulated using a phase-titration method. The microemulsion was characterized for droplet size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential, using a dynamic light-scattering technique. The physical and chemical stability of the microemulsion were evaluated via a dynamic light scattering technique and UV-Vis spectrophotometry, respectively. The UV protection of K. galanga rhizome oil and its microemulsion were investigated using an ultraviolet transmittance analyzer. The protective effect of K. galanga rhizome oil against LPS-induced inflammation was investigated via MTT and nitric oxide inhibitory assays. In addition, a hydrogel containing K. galanga rhizome oil microemulsion was developed, stored for 90 days at 4, 30, and 45 °C, and characterized for viscosity, rheology, and pH. The chemical degradation of the main active compound in the microemulsion was analyzed via UV-Vis spectrophotometry. The formulated O/W microemulsion contained a high loading efficiency (101.24 ± 2.08%) of K. galanga rhizome oil, suggesting a successful delivery system of the oil. The size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential values of the microemulsion were optimized and found to be stable when stored at 4, 30, and 45 °C. K. galanga rhizome oil and microemulsion demonstrated moderate sun protective activity and reduced the nitric oxide production induced by LPS in macrophage cells, indicating that microemulsion containing K. galanga rhizome oil may help protect human skin from UV damage and inflammation. A hydrogel containing K. galanga rhizome oil microemulsion was developed as a topical preparation. The hydrogel showed good physical stability after heating and cooling cycles and long-term storage (3 months) at 4 °C. The use of K. galanga rhizome oil as a natural sun-protective substance may provide a protective effect against inflammation on the skin. K. galanga rhizome oil microemulsion was successfully incorporated into the hydrogel and has the potential to be used as a topical sunscreen preparation.

Skin aging is accompanied by an increase in the number of senescent cells, resulting in various pathological outcomes. These include inflammation, impaired barrier function, and susceptibility to skin disorders such as cancer. Kaempferia parviflora (Thai black ginger), a medicinal plant native to Thailand, has been shown to counteract inflammation, cancer, and senescence. This study demonstrates that polymethoxyflavones (5,7-dimethoxyflavone, 5,7,4'-trimethoxyflavone, and 3,5,7,3',4'-pentamethoxyflavone) purified from K. parviflora rhizomes suppressed cellular senescence, reactive oxygen species, and the senescence-associated secretory phenotype in primary human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, they increased tropocollagen synthesis and alleviated free radical-induced cellular and mitochondrial damage. Moreover, the compounds mitigated chronological aging in a human ex vivo skin model by attenuating senescence and restoring expression of essential components of the extracellular matrix, including collagen type I, fibrillin-1, and hyaluronic acid. Finally, we report that polymethoxyflavones enhanced epidermal thickness and epidermal-dermal stability, while blocking age-related inflammation in skin explants. Our findings support the use of polymethoxyflavones from K. parviflora as natural anti-aging agents, highlighting their potential as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and nutraceutical products., (Copyright © 2021 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS.. All rights reserved.)

Objectives: Para rubber (Hevea brasiliensis (Willd. ex A. Juss.) Müll. Arg.)) is the important crop of the word. It has been vastly used in biomedical products. However, its pharmacologically application besides the latex is sparely to be explored especially the seed. Cellular biological activities of the standardized para rubber seed oil for hair loss treatment were therefore assessed., Methods: Para rubber seed oil was prepared and standardized using GC/MS on the basis of its pharmacologically active fatty acids. The oil was safety assessed in human dermal papilla and DU-145 human prostate carcinoma. Cellular antioxidant activity was determined as well as proliferation stimulating efficacy and inhibitory effect against 5α-reductase., Results: Oleic acid, fatty acid of cutaneous benefits, was majorly detected in the oil and followed by linoleic, palmitic, and stearic acids. The standardized para rubber seed oil was proved to be safe on human follicle dermal papilla and DU-145 human prostate carcinoma at the concentration of 0.1-50 and 0.1-100 µg/mL, respectively. The standardized para rubber seed oil stimulated the cell proliferation and posed cellular antioxidant activity in human dermal papilla at a comparable potency to minoxidil, dutasteride and vitamin C at the same tested concentration. In addition, the standardized para rubber seed oil inhibited 5α-reductase as examined in DU-145 human prostate carcinoma, although at a lesser degree than the standards at the same tested concentration., Conclusions: The standardized para rubber seed oil is evidenced as the safe and efficient bio-oil to be used for hair growth stimulating or reduce/suppress hair loss treatment., (© 2020 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Background and Aim: Skin aging influences the changes in skin, including skin dryness, wrinkle, and irregular pigmentation. Amla ( Phyllanthus emblica L.) branch has shown several benefits, but not the anti-skin aging. The study aimed to evaluate the anti-skin aging efficacy of amla branch., Experimental Procedure: Amla branches were standardized the phenolic acids. The extract was investigated anti-skin aging activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-melanogenesis, and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assays. Topical gel containing extract was prepared and evaluated the skin irritation by a single closed patch test. Randomized, double-blind, placebo-control study was performed in 20 volunteers for 84 consecutive days. The tested skin was evaluated by Chromameter® CR 400, Dermalab® USB, Mexameter® MX 18, Corneometer® CM 825, and Visioscan® VC 98., Results: Amla branch extract, a dark brown powder, consisted a variety of phenolic acids, mainly sinapic and ferulic acids. The extract exhibited the potent antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities in vitro assays and the melanin suppression through inhibition of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 activities, the strong antioxidant, and the potent matrix metalloproteinase-2 in cellular assays at 0.1 mg/mL. Topical gel containing 0.1% extract was a stable and safe formulation. Clinical study was proved the superior anti-skin aging efficacy, including the lightening skin color, the enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, and the skin wrinkle reduction., Conclusion: The study results suggested that amla branch is a rich source of bioactive compounds and can be a potential ingredient for utilization in anti-skin aging products., Competing Interests: The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (© 2021 Center for Food and Biomolecules, National Taiwan University. Production and hosting by Elsevier Taiwan LLC.)

Objectives: Snow fungus or snow mushroom or white jelly mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), the edible mushroom, was formulated into hand sanitizer in form of moisturizing alcohol-based hand rub (ABHR) gel., Methods: The stable base ABHRs were developed. The preferred bases were incorporated with various concentrations of snow mushroom extract. The stable and preferred snow mushroom ABHR was moisturizing and sanitizing efficacies evaluated in 20 human volunteers in comparison with its placebo., Results: The stable hand sanitizer gel bases containing 66.5% of ethanol and 0.3% of triclosan were developed and incorporated with the extract of snow mushroom polysaccharide. Of which, the preparations containing 10% of snow mushroom and 0.3% of gelling agent gained the highest preferences as assessed in 20 Thai volunteers. The snow mushroom hand sanitizer was proved to be none irritated in the same group of the volunteers as was the placebo. The snow mushroom gel significantly (P < .05) moist the skin better than the placebo at all time of the interval assessment until the end of the study at 180 minutes. The hand sanitizers were confirmed on their anti-septic, at which the efficacies of the active and placebo ABHR were comparable (P = .90)., Conclusions: Snow mushroom ABHR gel with its confirmed moisturizing and sanitizing efficacies is presented. It is meetings with the recommendation on hand hygienic improvement to combat the infections of diseases spreading. The preparation can be frequency applied with its proved skin hydrating efficacy co-contributes in a good condition of hand hygiene., (© 2020 Wiley Periodicals, LLC.)

The pomegranate phenolics are reported to have cutaneous benefits and to be effective in treating skin disorders, including hyperpigmentation. In this context, a preparation method was developed by which to obtain phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract. Sinapic acid was presented as the major pomegranate peel phenolics, followed by gallic and ellagic acids, and 4 additional phenolics. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity with an in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory effect. The skin hyperpigmentation treating potency was confirmed by the suppression of cellular melanogenesis through tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitions as examined in the B16F10 melanoma cells. Cellular antioxidant and proliferative activities of the extract toward human dermal fibroblasts were evidenced, as well as an inhibitory effect against MMP-2. The extract was developed into the stable serum and mask. The products were proved to be non-irritated in 30 Thai volunteers participating in a single application closed patch test. A split-face, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled test of the skin lightening effect was evaluated in the 30 volunteers over 28 consecutive daily treatments and monitored by the Mexameter MX 18. The active serum and mask were better in facial skin lightening efficacy than the placebo (p < 0.005). That was in accordance with the sensory evaluation scored by the volunteers. Phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract is evidenced as a safe herbal derived material promising for skin hyperpigmentation treatment. Supportive information regarding chemical and biological profiles is presented with the confirmed safety and cutaneous benefits in volunteers., Competing Interests: The authors declare that they have no conflict of interest., (Georg Thieme Verlag KG Stuttgart · New York.)

Butterfly pea ( Clitoria ternatea ) anthocyanins are important natural food colorants. However, the instability hinders industrial applications. The butterfly pea anthocyanin extract was prepared and mixed with biopolymeric wall systems such as maltodextrin (MD) and gum arabic (GA), MD and gelatin (GE), and MD and guar gum at 1/4 and 1/5 ratios with or without acidified condition, and assessed using the accelerated stability test. The total anthocyanin content (TAC) and color were reassessed. The biopolymeric walls of MD and GA (1/5) under acidified condition exhibited best stability enhancement in comparison with the unprotected one (12.04% ± 4.49% and 85.37% ± 0.22% TAC reduction, respectively). a * and b shifts of the protected system were 4.76% ± 0.00% and 0.28% ± 0.00%, respectively. The particle size of this system was 95.44 ± 1.57 µm. This stabilized anthocyanin extract can, therefore, be used in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Background: Guava has benefit phytochemicals that are important for skin-disorder treatment. Nevertheless, its efficacy against oily skin has never been reported., Aims: The guava toner was developed and clinical evaluated., Methods: The base toner was formulated, accelerated stability tested, and sensory-evaluated in 10 volunteers. The highest preference base was incorporated with guava extract, stability examined, and skin irritation assessed in 21 volunteers by a single application close patch test. Anti-sebum efficacy was split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled evaluated in 21 volunteers for 28 days and monitored by Sebutape ® on forehead and nose., Results: The stable toner base with the greatest preference (83.20 ± 1.85%) was incorporated with 3%, 4.5%, and 6% of guava extract. The toners were stable with none of skin irritation. The toner with 6% guava extract was selected for efficacy evaluation. Guava toner significantly reduced oiliness of forehead (13.10 ± 3.67%, P < 0.05) and nose (21.43 ± 3.21%, P < 0.001) better than the base toner. The activity on nose was significantly noted (10.72 ± 3.51%, P < 0.05) since the 3rd week of application., Conclusions: Anti-sebum guava toner was efficiently evidence approved and suitable for a daily application to improve the efficacy., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Hyaluronic acid (HA, 20-50 kDa) is a hydrophilic macromolecule with anti-wrinkle effects and moisturizing properties. However, its high molecular weight prevents it from penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin and, thus, limits its benefits to topical effects. Thus, the objective of this study is to prepare nanoparticles of quaternized cyclodextrin-grafted chitosan (QCD-g-CS) associated with HA in different molar ratios of QCD-g-CS and HA. The conjugation of the carboxylic moieties of HA and the amides of QCD-g-CS was confirmed by Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Thus, the system was optimized to create nanoparticles with a small size (235.63 ± 21.89 nm), narrow polydispersity index (0.13 ± 0.02), and zeta potential of 16.07 ± 0.65 mV. The association efficiency and loading efficiency were determined by ultra-performance liquid chromatography as 86.77 ± 0.69% and 10.85 ± 0.09%, respectively. The spherical morphology of the obtained nanoparticles was confirmed by transmission electron microscopy. Moreover, the in - vitro hydrating ability was significantly higher ( P  < 0.001) than that of bulk HA (3.29 ± 0.41 and 1.71 ± 0.05 g water/g sample, respectively). The safety of these nanoparticles at concentrations in the range of 0.01-0.10 mg/ml was confirmed via tests on human skin fibroblasts. Together, these results demonstrate that the developed nanoparticles are promising for future applications in cosmetics., (© 2018 Shenyang Pharmaceutical University. Published by Elsevier B.V.)

Skin hyperpigmentation is caused by several factors that upregulate melanogenesis. Plants and natural products with skin-whitening effects are gaining interest among consumers and researchers because they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than synthetic alternatives. This review extensively summarizes the status of plants and natural products currently used in skin-whitening cosmetics as well as potential candidates for future use, because the scope of natural choices for efficient treatment of skin hyperpigmentation is rapidly widening. Biological activities of plants and natural extracts are therefore available for cosmetic formulators and dermatologists interested in naturally derived ingredients for skin hyperpigmentation treatment and in accordance with the consumers' preferences and expectations upon natural cosmetic products., Competing Interests: The authors have no conflicts of interest to declare., (Georg Thieme Verlag KG Stuttgart · New York.)

Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.

Peel extracts of litchi and rambutan, and that of tamarind seed coat were investigated in relation to their utility in skin-aging treatments. Standardized extracts of tamarind were significantly (p < 0.05) more efficient at O2 •- scavenging (IC50 = 27.44 ± 0.09) than those of litchi and rambutan (IC50 = 29.57 ± 0.30 and 39.49 ± 0.52 μg/ml, respectively) and the quercetin standard (IC50 = 31.88 ± 0.15 μg/ml). Litchi extract proved significantly (p < 0.05) more effective for elastase and collagenase inhibition (88.29 ± 0.25% and 79.46 ± 0.92%, respectively) than tamarind (35.43 ± 0.68% and 57.69 ± 5.97%) or rambutan (31.08 ± 0.38% and 53.99 ± 6.18%). All extracts were safe to human skin fibroblasts and inhibit MMP-2, with litchi extract showing significantly (p < 0.01) enhanced inhibition over the standard, vitamin C (23.75 ± 2.74% and 10.42 ± 5.91% at 0.05 mg/ml, respectively). Extracts suppress melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells through inhibition of tyrosinase and TRP-2, with litchi extract being the most potent, even more so than kojic acid (standard). These results highlight the potential for adding value to agro-industrial waste, as the basis for the sustainable production of innovative, safe, anti-aging cosmetic products.

Ethnopharmacological Relevance: While rice is one of the most important global staple food sources its extracts have found many uses as the bases of herbal remedies. Rice extracts contain high levels of phenolic compounds which are known to be bioactive, some of which show cutaneous benefits and activity towards skin disorders. This study highlights an assessment of the cellular activity and clinical efficacy of rice panicle extract, providing necessary information relevant to the development of new cosmetic products., Materials and Methods: Jasmine rice panicle extract was standardized, and the level of phenolics present was determined. In vitro anti-aging, and extract activity towards melanogenesis was conducted in B16F10 melanoma cells, and antioxidant activity was assessed in human skin fibroblast cell cultures. Topical product creams containing the extract were developed, and skin irritation testing using a single application closed patch test method was done using 20 Thai volunteers. Randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled efficacy evaluation was undertaken in 24 volunteers over an 84d period, with the results monitored by Corneometer ® CM 825, Cutometer ® MPA 580, Mexameter ® MX 18 and Visioscan ® VC 98., Results: Jasmine rice panicle extract was shown to have a high content of p-coumaric, ferulic and caffeic acids, and was not cytotoxic to the cell lines used in this study. Cells treated with extract suppressed melanogenesis via tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitory effects, which protect the cell from oxidative stress at doses of 0.1mg/ml or lower. The jasmine rice panicle preparations (0.1-0.2%) were safe (MII=0), and significantly (p<0.05) increased skin hydration levels relative to baseline. Skin lightening, and anti-wrinkle effects related to skin firmness and smoothness were observed, in addition to a reduction in skin wrinkling. Improvements in skin biophysics of both 0.1% and 0.2% extracts were showed to be comparable (p>0.05)., Conclusions: Jasmine rice panicle extract having high levels of phenolics shows cutaneous benefits as the basis for skin aging treatments, as indicated through in vitro cytotoxicity assessments and skin testing in human subjects., (Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Skin aging is caused by several factors capable of deteriorating dermal matrix and is visibly noticed in skin color and skin contour deformities. In addition to the prevention of skin aging by application of antioxidants and sunscreens, treatment of skin wrinkles with those of dermal fillers is also recommended. Dermal filler products with enhanced injectability and longer duration are being developed continuously. Biodegradable polymers such as skin elastic fibers and dermal matrix mimetic used for treatment of skin wrinkle are summarized in this article. Additionally, the importance of amino acids, enzymes, and proteins in aesthetic of skin is addressed. Thus, elective agents are proposed for the dermatologists, cosmetic formulators, and the individuals facing skin aging problems. The candidate natural peptides from marine sources are additionally presented for widening the choice of actives application for treating aging.

An inexpensive, rapid method for the determination of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) in sunscreen products using ultraviolet-spectrophotometry has been developed and validated according to International Council for Harmonisation and Association of Official Analytical Chemists guidelines. Methanol was the optimal solvent used with a linearity range of 4–12 µg\/ml (r = 0.999) being obtainable. The accuracy of the method is highlighted by the % recovery (98.23–98.50) and relative standard deviation (%RSD, 0.12), and it is widely applicable to prototype products composed of oil in water, and water in oil emulsions. Mineral oils containing low, intermediate, and high OMC levels (1%, 4%, and 7.5%) gave recovery percentages of 99.76–100.76 with %RSD of 0.02–0.28. In addition, this method is repeatable and affords a high degree of precision (%RSD = 0.12 and 0) with 96.08–99.27% recovery. The method is suitable for quality assurance of suncare product formulations, and could be applicable to product development and validation.

Green tea has cosmetic benefits that include activities against androgen disorders. A hair tonic containing green tea for reduction of scalp sebum was developed and clinically evaluated. Stable green tea hair tonics were closed-patch tested and clinically evaluated in 20 volunteers for 28 days by using a Sebumeter ® . Hair tonic base with glycerin and butylene glycol (total 4%) gained the highest consumers’ preference was incorporated with green tea extract. All of the products were stable and none caused skin irritation. Green tea hair tonic (2%) significantly (p ≤ 0.024) lowered scalp sebum for 21 and 28 days following the application, suggesting that this topical therapy of scalp greasiness is safe and efficient.

The volatile profiles of aroma extracts prepared from the flower of Gardenia jasminoides by different methods were investigated using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The enfleurage extraction using spermaceti wax and palm oil afforded the best aroma extract with a preference that was significantly (p < 0.05) better than those from solvent extractions, as sensorially evaluated in 43 volunteers. The odor quality of the absolute de enfleurage was similar to the floral scent of fresh gardenia, as confirmed in 152 volunteers. Although female volunteers were insignificantly (p > 0.05) better sensed than male volunteers, age was significant (p < 0.05). The nuance gardenia floral scent was contributed by farnesene, Z-3-hexenyl tiglate, Z-3-hexenyl benzoate, and indole. The relaxing and refreshing sensations of the gardenia odor suggest its applications in body care, cleansing products, and perfume. This study addresses the increasing interest in floral fragrances. The aroma profile and sensory property of this sweet and elegant scent flower will strengthen and expand the applications of gardenia from traditional medicine to those of perfumery and the field of phytochemistry.