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Oxidative stress as a driver of disease is reinforcing the trend towards supplementation with antioxidants. While antioxidants positively influence the redox status when applied at physiological doses, higher concentrations may have pro-oxidative effects. Precise assessment methods for testing the supply of antioxidants are lacking. Using in-situ-irradiation as stressor and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy as readout system for formed radicals, a stress response assessment method was developed, using protein solutions and plasma samples from transfusion medicine. The method was validated in a double-blind placebo-controlled in vivo cross-over pilot study in blood plasma samples of individuals before and after vitamin C supplementation. Reference measurements were performed for the exogenous antioxidants β-carotene and vitamin C, and glutathione as an endogenous representative. Malondialdehyde was studied for oxidative stress indication. Protein solutions without antioxidants showed a linear increase in radical concentration during irradiation. The in-vitro-addition of vitamin C or plasma samples from subjects displayed two slopes (m

Fungal infections have increased considerably over the last decades, becoming progressively resistant to common drugs. UVC light has shown microbiological eradication effects, whereby the wavelength of 254 nm is strongly carcino- and mutagenic. Therefore, 222 and 233 nm, which do not significantly harm skin cells, were tested for their antifungal effects. Microbicidal doses were reached at 40 mJ/cm

Background: The knowledge about the location and kinetics of tattoo pigments in human skin after application and during the recovery is restricted due to the limitation of in vivo methods for visualizing pigments. Here, the localization and distribution of tattoo ink pigments in freshly and old tattooed human skin during the regeneration of the epidermis and dermis were investigated in vivo. Methods: Two-photon excited fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPE-FLIM) was used to identify tattoo ink pigments in human skin in vivo down to the reticular dermis. One subject with a freshly applied tattoo and 10 subjects with tattoos applied over 3 years ago were investigated in the epidermal and dermal layers in vivo. One histological slide of tattooed skin was used to localize skin-resident tattoo pigment using light microscopy. Results: The carbon black particles deposited around the incision have still been visible 84 days after tattoo application, showing delayed recovery of the epidermis. The TPE-FLIM parameters of carbon black tattoo ink pigments were found to be different to all skin components except for melanin. Distinction from melanin in the skin was based on higher fluorescence intensity and agglomerate size. Using TPE-FLIM in vivo tattoo pigment was found in 75% of tattoos applied up to 9 years ago in the epidermis within keratinocytes, dendritic cells and basal cells and in the dermis within the macrophages, mast cells and fibroblasts. Loading of highly fluorescent carbon black particles enables in vivo imaging of dendritic cells in the epidermis and fibroblasts in the dermis, which cannot be visualized in native conditions. The collagen I structures showed a higher directionality similar to scar tissue resulting in a greater firmness and decreased elasticity of the tattooed skin. Conclusions: Here we show the kinetics and location of carbon black tattoo ink pigment immediately after application for the first time in vivo in human skin. Carbon black particles are located exclusively intracellularly in the skin of fresh and old tattoos. They are found within macrophages, mast cells and fibroblasts in the dermis and within keratinocytes, dendritic cells and basal cells in the continuously renewed epidermis even in 9-year-old tattoos in skin showing no inflammation.

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm

Multiresistant pathogens such as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) cause serious postoperative infections. A skin tolerant far-UVC (2. MRSA bacteria in different concentrations on blood agar plates were inactivated with irradiation doses in the range of 15–40 mJ/cm2. Porcine skin irradiated with a dose of 40 mJ/cm2 at 233 nm showed only 3.7% CPD and 2.3% 6-4PP DNA damage. Corresponding irradiation at 254 nm caused 11–14 times higher damage. Thus, the skin damage caused by the disinfectant doses is so small that it can be expected to be compensated by the skin's natural repair mechanisms. LED-based far-UVC lamps could therefore soon be used in everyday clinical practice to eradicate multiresistant pathogens directly on humans.

The topical photodynamic therapy (PDT) is mainly used in the treatment of dermato-oncological diseases. The distribution and functionality of the photosensitizer Tetrahydroporphyrin-Tetratosylat (THPTS) was investigated using microscopic and spectroscopic methods after topical application to excised porcine skin followed by irradiation. The distribution of THPTS was determined by two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPT/FLIM) and confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM). The radicals were quantified and characterized by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. Results show a penetration depth of THPTS into the skin down to around 12 ± 5 µm. A penetration of THPTS through the stratum corneum was not clearly observable after 1 h penetration time, but cannot be excluded. The irradiation within the phototherapeutic window (spectral range of visible and near infrared light in the range ≈ 650–850 nm) is needed to activate THPTS. An incubation time of 10 min showed the highest radical production. A longer incubation time affected the functionality of THPTS, whereby significant less radicals were detectable. During PDT mainly reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid oxygen species (LOS) are produced. Overall, the irradiation dose per se influences the radical types formed in skin. While ROS are always prominent at low doses, LOS increase at high doses, independent of previous skin treatment and the irradiation wavelength used.

Determination of the molecular composition of the skin is crucial for numerous tasks in medicine, pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a sensitive method for the evaluation of molecular depth profiles in the skin in vivo. Since the Raman spectra of most of the skin constituents significantly superimpose, a spectral decomposition by a set of predefined library components is usually performed to disentangle their contributions. However, the incorrect choice of the number and type of components or differences between the spectra of the basic components measured in vitro and in vivo can lead to incorrect results of the decomposition procedure. Here, we investigate an alternative data-driven approach based on a non-negative matrix factorization (NNMF) algorithm of depth-resolved Raman spectra of skin that does not require a priori information of spectral data for the analysis. Using the model and experimentally measured depth-resolved Raman spectra of the upper epidermis in vivo, we show that NNMF provides depth profiles of endogenous molecular components and exogenous agents penetrating through the upper epidermis for the spectra and concentration. Moreover, we demonstrate that this approach is capable of providing new information on the molecular profiles of the skin.

Carotenoids play an important role in the protection of biomembranes against oxidative damage. Their function depends on the surroundings and the organization of the lipid membrane they are embedded in. Carotenoids are located parallel or perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The influence of carotenoids on the organization of the lipid bilayer in the stratum corneum has not been thoroughly considered. Here, the orientation of the exemplary cutaneous carotenoids lycopene and zeaxanthin in a hydrated ceramide NS24 bilayer model and the influence of carotenoids on the lateral organization of the lipid bilayer model were studied by means of molecular dynamics simulations for 32 °C and 37 °C. The results confirm that lycopene is located parallel and zeaxanthin perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The lycopene-loaded lipid bilayer appeared to have a strong orthorhombic organization, while zeaxanthin-loaded and pure lipid bilayers were organized in a disordered hexagonal-like and liquid-like state, respectively. The effect is stronger at 32 °C compared to 37 °C based on p-values. Therefore, it was assumed that carotenoids without hydroxyl polar groups in their structure facilitate the formation of the orthorhombic organization of lipids, which provides the skin barrier function. It was shown that the distance between carotenoid atoms matched the distance between atoms in the lipids, indicating that parallel located carotenoids without hydroxyl groups serve as a skeleton for lipid membranes inside the lamellae. The obtained results provide reasonable prediction of the overall qualitative properties of lipid model systems and show the importance of parallel-oriented carotenoids in the development and maintenance of the skin barrier function.

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

The effect of glycerol solutions of different concentrations and exposure times on the optical clearing efficiency in intact pig skin has been studied in the analysis of Raman spectra recorded at different depths. It has been found that a solution of 80% glycerol and 20% dimethylsulfoxide penetrated through the stratum corneum during 45 min. The increase in optical clearing has been achieved by using mixtures of optical clearing agents with dimethylsulfoxide and distilled water. Thus, the greatest optical clearing efficiency was observed when using a mixture of 60% glycerol and 40% water for 45 min (an increase of 3.4 times at a depth of 80 µm). Thus, it has been shown that it is possible to control the skin optical parameters at a depth of about 80 µm using the method of confocal Raman microscopy.

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.évaluer la sécurité d’emploi et les effets synergiques des associations d’huiles essentielles d’arbre à thé, de lavande, d’eucalyptus et de mandarine sur la peau à l’aide d’études in vitro, ex vivo et cliniques. MÉTHODES: la phototoxicité a été prédite avec le test de phototoxicité de fixation du rouge neutre 3T3 (OCDE TG 432). La pénétration cutanée a été évaluée par microspectroscopie confocale de Raman grâce à l’application directe d’huiles essentielles sur les oreilles de cochons. Pour les études cliniques, 40 participants ont été inclus et randomisés dans trois groupes : (1) lavande, eucalyptus et mandarine, (2) les mêmes huiles essentielles plus melaleuca et (3) un groupe placebo. La peau a été évaluée par des techniques non invasives avant et après une période d’utilisation topique de 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: les huiles essentielles se sont avérées non phototoxiques, mais l’huile de mandarine a montré une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante (CI 50 : 33,1 µg/ml), représentant 35 % de pénétration dans l’épiderme viable. À l’inverse, dans l’étude clinique, une quantité de 17,7 µg/ml par jour en association a été appliquée, et le taux de pénétration des associations (10 %, soit 1,77 µg/ml atteignant l’épiderme viable) a garanti la sécurité d’emploi, puisque dans l’étude clinique, l’application des quatre huiles essentielles a amélioré la barrière cutanée et les caractéristiques morphologiques de la peau, et a entraîné une augmentation de l’hydratation cutanée et une diminution des taux de sébum, sans signalement d’effets indésirables.chacune des huiles essentielles étudiées a été considérée comme non cytotoxique ou non phototoxique, à l’exception de la mandarine, qui présente une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante. Enfin, l’association d’huiles essentielles en quantité appropriée a démontré sa sécurité d’emploi et son efficacité dans l’amélioration de l’équilibre hydrolipidique et des propriétés morphologiques de la peau.

Macrophages (MΦs) are important immune effector cells that promote (M1 MΦs) or inhibit (M2 MΦs) inflammation and are involved in numerous physiological and pathogenic immune responses. Their precise role and relevance, however, is not fully understood because of the lack of non-invasive quantification methods. Here, we show that two-photon excited fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPE-FLIM), a label-free non-invasive method, can visualize MΦs in human dermisin vivo. We demonstratein vitrothat human dermal MΦs exhibit specific TPE-FLIM properties that distinguish them from the main components of the extracellular matrix and other dermal cells. We visualized MΦs, their phenotypes and phagocytosis in the skin of healthy individualsin vivousing TPE-FLIM. Additionally, machine learning identified M1 and M2 MΦs with a sensitivity of 0.88±0.04 and 0.82±0.03 and a specificity of 0.89±0.03 and 0.90±0.03, respectively. In clinical research, TPE-FLIM can advance the understanding of the role of MΦs in health and disease.

The assessment of dermal alterations is necessary to monitor skin aging, cancer, and other skin diseases and alterations. The gold standard of morphologic diagnostics is still histopathology. Here, we proposed parameters to distinguish morphologically different collagen I structures in the extracellular matrix and to characterize varying collagen I structures in the skin with similar SAAID (SHG-to-AF Aging Index of Dermis, SHG—second-harmonic generation, AF—autofluorescence) values. Test datasets for the papillary and reticular extracellular matrix from images in 24 female subjects, 35 to 60 years of age, were generated. Parameters for SAAID, edge detection, and fast Fourier transformation directionality were determined. Additionally, textural analyses based on the grey level co-occurrence matrix (GLCM) were conducted. At first, changes in the GLCM parameters were determined in the native greyscale images and, furthermore, in the Hilbert-transformed images. Our results demonstrate a robust set of parameters for noninvasive in vivo classification for morphologically different collagen I structures in the skin, with similar and different SAAID values. We anticipate our method to enable an automated prevention and monitoring system with an age- and gender-specific algorithm.

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0–2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

The human stratum corneum (SC) contains an abundant amount of carotenoid antioxidants, quenching free radicals and thereby protecting the skin. For the precise measurements of the depth-dependent carotenoid concentration, confocal Raman microscopy is a suitable method. The quantitative concentration can be determined by the carotenoid-related peak intensity of a Gaussian function approached at ≈1524 cm-1 using non-linear regression. Results show that the carotenoid concentration is higher at the superficial layers of the SC then decreases to a minimum at 20% SC depth and increases again towards the bottom of the SC. In the present work, two carotenoid penetration pathways into the SC are postulated. The first pathway is from the stratum granulosum to the bottom of the SC, while in the second pathway, the carotenoids are delivered to the skin surface by sweat and/or sebum secretion and penetrate from outside. The carotenoids are aggregated at the superficial layers, which are shown by high correlation between the aggregation states of carotenoids and the lateral organization of lipids. At the 30%-40% SC depths, the ordered and dense lipid molecules intensify the lipid-carotenoid interactions and weaken the carotenoid-carotenoid interaction and thus exhibit the disaggregation of carotenoids. At 90%-100% SC depths, the carotenoid-lipid interaction is weakened and the carotenoids have a tendency to be aggregated. Thus, the molecular structural correlation of carotenoid and SC lipid might be reserved in the intercellular space of the SC and also serves as the skeleton of the intercellular lipids.

Background Skin diseases can develop upon disadvantageous microclimate in relation to skin contact with textiles of supporting devices. Increased temperature, moisture, mechanical fracture, pressure, and inflammatory processes often occur mutually and enhance each other in their adverse effects. Therefore, the early prevention of skin irritations by improvement of microclimatic properties of skin in contact with supporting devices is important. Materials and methods In this study, the microclimate under occlusion with polyester, cotton, chloroprene rubber, and silicone textiles, used for supporting devices, was analyzed by determining several characteristic physiologic skin parameters in vivo, including temperature, moisture, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This is achieved by comparing a miniaturized in vivo detection device with several established optical and sensory methods in vivo. Results A highly significant TEWL decrease was found after polyester, chloroprene rubber, and silicone application. The application of all materials showed highly significant decrease in skin surface temperature, with chloroprene rubber showing the lowest. Similarly, all materials showed highly significant increase in relative moisture, where the highest increase was found for chloroprene rubber and silicone and the lowest increase for cotton. The cutaneous carotenoid concentration of chloroprene rubber, silicone, and polyester decreased. A manipulation of the surface structure of the stratum corneum was recognized for all materials except for cotton by laser scanning microscopy. Conclusion The skin parameters temperature, relative moisture, antioxidant status, and TEWL can effectively characterize the microclimatic environment during occlusion with medical supporting materials. These parameters could potentially be used to develop standardized testing procedures for material evaluation.

Der Haarfollikel stellt einen bedeutenden Penetrationsweg fur topisch applizierte Substanzen dar. Die perkutane Absorption von bestimmten Substanzen kann durch die Beteiligung der Haarfollikel deutlich gesteigert und beschleunigt werden. Ferner haben Nanopartikel die Eigenschaft, besonders tief und effektiv in die Haarfollikel hinein zu penetrieren. Dies bietet die Moglichkeit, den Wirkstofftransport fur topisch applizierte Substanzen zu optimieren, indem die Nanocarrier allein als Transporter fur die Wirkstoffe in den Haarfollikel fungieren. Innerhalb des Haarfollikels muss nach erfolgter Penetration eine Freisetzung des Wirkstoffs vom Nanocarrier erfolgen. Dies kann durch verschiedene Mechanismen getriggert werden. Die freigesetzten Nanocarrier konnen somit unabhangig vom Nanopartikel in das den Haarfollikel umgebende lebende Gewebe ubergehen. Mithilfe dieser innovativen Strategie kann die Bioverfugbarkeit von topisch applizierten Substanzen deutlich verbessert werden. Ein Transport von Wirkstoffen in die Haarfollikel mithilfe von Partikeln und die dortige Wirkstofffreisetzung stellen eine sehr effektive neue Methode dar, Wirkstoffe durch die Hautbarriere zu transportieren.

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p &lt, 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p &lt, 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Background The recommended amount of sunscreen by hand application (2 mg/cm2 ) is in reality not achieved, which decreases the homogeneity and thereby the effective sun protection factor (SPF). Materials and methods The homogeneity of sunscreen applied by a newly developed spray applicator using an electrostatically charged aerosol, for which a hand rubbing of the formulation is not necessary, is evaluated. In vivo experiments were performed on the volar forearms of human volunteers using the spray applicator compared to the standardized hand application according to ISO 24444. Results The distribution homogeneity was assessed qualitatively using in vivo laser scanning microscopy and quantitatively by absorption spectroscopy after tape stripping and by the standard deviation of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements for non-invasive SPF determination below the minimal erythemal dose, which showed a significantly higher homogeneity by 20.9% after spray application compared to hand application. Conclusion Non-invasive SPF determination of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements was proven to be a suitable method for the non-invasive determination of the sunscreen distribution homogeneity. Electrostatically charged spray application increased the sunscreen distribution homogeneity on the skin and can reduce the amount of overspray.

The sun protection factor (SPF) values are currently determined using an invasive procedure, in which the volunteers are irradiated with ultraviolet (UV) light. Non-invasive approaches based on hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) have shown a good correlation with conventional SPF testing. Here, we present a novel compact and adjustable DRS test system. The in vivo measurements were performed using a multi-lambda-LED light source and an 84-channel imaging spectrograph with a fiber optic probe for detection. A transmission spectrum was calculated based on the reflectance measured with sunscreen and the reflectance measured without sunscreen. The preexposure in vitro spectrum was fitted to the in vivo spectrum. Each of the 11 test products was investigated on 10 volunteers. The SPF and UVA-PF values obtained by this new approach were compared with in vivo SPF results determined by certified test institutes. A correlation coefficient R-2 = 0.86 for SPF, and R-2 = 0.92 for UVA-PF were calculated. Having examined various approaches to apply the HDRS principle, the method we present was found to produce valid and reproducible results, suggesting that the multi-lambda-LED device is suitable for in-vivo SPF testing based on the HDRS principle as well as for in-vivo UVA-PF measurements.

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.Il est généralement entendu que les effets occlusifs consistent en la rétention d'un excès d'eau dans la couche cornée (stratum corneum, SC), l'augmentation d'épaisseur de la SC (gonflement) et une diminution de la perte d'eau trans-épidermique. Cependant, l'influence de l'occlusion sur les propriétés de fixation de l'eau dans le SC est inconnue. MÉTHODES: L'action des huiles de jojoba et d'amande d'origine végétale, ainsi que des huiles de paraffine et de pétrolatum d'origine minérale appliquées topiquement sur la peau humaine est étudiée in vivo à l'aide de la microspectroscopie Raman confocale. Pour comprendre l'influence des huiles sur le SC au niveau moléculaire, on a étudié les états de liaison hydrogène de l'eau dans le SC en fonction de la profondeur et leur relation avec la conformation de la kératine, la concentration des molécules du facteur naturel d'hydratation (NMF) et l'organisation des lipides. RÉSULTATS: Un gonflement significatif de le SC n'a été observé que dans la peau traitée au pétrolatum. La concentration en eau a été augmentée dans la peau traitée au pétrolatum dans la région SC intermédiaire (40-70% de profondeur du SC). En meme temps, la quantité d'eau libre, faiblement et fortement liée augmentait, tandis que l'eau fortement liée diminuait dans la région SC supérieure (0-30% de profondeur du SC). La concentration en NMF de la peau traitée à l'huile était plus basse d´une manière significative à 50-70% de profondeur du SC. L'organisation latérale des lipides dans la peau huilée était plus basse à une profondeur du SC de 0 à 30 %. La structure secondaire de la kératine a été modifiée pour augmenter la teneur en feuillet-β dans les peaux huilées d'origine minérale et pour augmenter la teneur en hélice α dans les peaux huilées d'origine végétale.Les propriétés occlusives peuvent être résumées comme l'augmentation de l'eau libre et la transformation de l'eau d'un état de liaison hydrogène plus fort à un état de liaison hydrogène plus faible dans le SC supérieure, bien que certaines huiles provoquent des changements insignifiants de l'épaisseur de la SC. Les modifications de la conformation de la kératine dans la zone de gonflement intermédiaire du SC soulignent également le rôle de la kératine dans le système de transport de l'eau du SC, c'est-à-dire que l'eau est transportée du SC de manière intercellulaire et intracellulaire dans la zone de gonflement intermédiaire et seulement de manière intercellulaire dans la zone non gonflée la plus élevée. En considérant cela, les huiles d'amande, de jojoba et de paraffine, qui ne sont pas occlusives du point de vue conventionnel, ont un effet d'occlusion similaire à celui du pétrolatum sur le SC.

The presence of penetrated oils in the stratum corneum (SC), oil-induced occlusion of the SC and formation of occluding homogeneous film on the skin surface are discussed in relation to their influence on results of water profile calculations using conventional and newly proposed extended methods. It is shown that the conventional method does not determine the water profiles in treated skin correctly due to the superposition of Raman bands of SC's proteins and penetrated and remnant oils.

In this study, stratum corneum (SC) depth profiles of hydrogen bound water molecule types, intercellular lipid (ICL) ordering, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and keratin folding/unfolding properties are investigated in vivo for older (mean 50 years old) and younger (mean 29 years old) human skin using confocal Raman microscopy. The results show that the SC of the older group is modestly thicker (p

Raman measurements applied on freshly tattooed porcine skin ex vivo showed a possibility of obtaining the ink pigment related information in the skin. Based on these results, confocal Raman microscopy was used to identify the tattoo ink pigments of different colors in multicolored tattooed human skin in vivo. The Raman signatures of tattoo ink pigments were unique. Therefore, it could be shown that the applied method is successful for the identification of the tattoo ink pigments in human skin in vivo down to depths of approx. 50 μm, which is sufficient to screen the entire epidermis and the top of the papillary dermis area on the forearm and leg skin sites. Additional application of the optical clearing technique in vivo by topical application of glycerol, combined with tape stripping removal of the uppermost stratum corneum layers and defatting allows the extension of depths of investigation in tattooed skin down to approx. 400 μm, i.e. to cover the entire papillary dermis and a large part of the reticular dermis. Thus, the tattoo ink pigments were identified in vivo and depth-dependently in human tattooed skin confirming their presence in the papillary and reticular dermis. The proposed non-invasive in vivo Raman screening combined with optical clearing for identifying the tattoo pigments in the dermis can be an important task preceding a laser-based tattoo removal procedure and for determining the optimal laser parameters.

The secondary and tertiary structure of keratin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are of great importance regarding the water regulating functions in the stratum corneum (SC). In this in vivo study, the depth-dependent keratin conformation and its relationship to the hydrogen bonding states of water and its content in the SC, are investigated using confocal Raman microscopy. Based on the obtained depth-profiles for the β-sheet/α-helix ratio, the stability of disulphide bonds, the amount of cysteine forming disulphide bonds, the buried/exposed tyrosine and the folding/unfolding states of keratin, a “three layer model” of the SC, regarding the keratin-water-NMF interaction is proposed. At the uppermost layers (30–0% SC depth), the keratin filaments are highly folded, entailing limited water binding sites, and NMF is mostly responsible for binding water. At the intermediate layers (70–30% SC depth), the keratin filaments are unfolded, have the most water binding sites and are prone to swelling. At the bottom layers (100–80% SC depth), the water binding sites are already occupied with water and cannot swell substantially. The hydrogen bonding states of water molecules can only be explained by considering both, the molecular structure of keratin and the contribution of NMF as a holistic system.

Background: Various cutaneous toxicities under chemotherapy indicate a local effect of chemotherapy by secretion after systemic application. Here, changes in the fluorescence and Raman spectral properties of the stratum corneum subsequent to intravenous chemotherapy were assessed. Methods: Twenty healthy subjects and 20 cancer patients undergoing chemotherapy were included. Measurement time points in cancer patients were before the first cycle of chemotherapy (Tbase) and immediately after intravenous application of the chemotherapy (T1). Healthy subjects were measured once without any further intervention. Measurements were conducted using an individually manufactured system consisting of a handheld probe and a wavelength-tunable diode laser-based 488 nm SHG light source. Hereby, changes in both skin fluorescence and shifted excitation resonance Raman difference spectroscopy (SERRDS) carotenoid signals were assessed. Results: Healthy subjects showed significantly (P < .001) higher mean concentrations of carotenoids compared to cancer subjects at Tbase. An increase in fluorescence intensity was detected in almost all patients after chemotherapy, especially after doxorubicin infusion. Furthermore, a decrease in the carotenoid concentration in the skin after chemotherapy was found. Conclusion: The SERRDS based noninvasive detection can be used as an indirect quantitative assessment of fluorescent chemotherapeutics. The lower carotenoid SERRDS intensities at T(base) might be due to cancerous diseases and co-medication.

Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of porcine skin ex vivo in the high wavenumber region after application of molecular optical clearing agents (OCAs). Glycerol (70%) and iohexol (100% Omnipaque [300]) water solutions were used as OCAs and topically applied to porcine ear skin for 30 and 60 minutes. Using Gaussian function-based deconvolution, the changes of hydrogen bound water molecule types have been microscopically analyzed down to the depth of 200 μm. Results show that both OCAs induced skin dehydration (reduction of total water), which is 51.3% for glycerol (60 minutes), 33.1% for glycerol (30 minutes), 8.3% for Omnipaque (60 minutes) and 4.4% for Omnipaque (30 minutes), on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths. Among the water types in the skin, the following reduction was observed in concentration of weakly bound (51.1%, 33.2%, 7.5% and 4.6%), strongly bound (50.4%, 33.0%, 7.9% and 3.4%), tightly bound (63.6%, 42.3%, 26.1% and 12.9%) and unbound (55.4%, 28.7%, 10.1% and 5.9%) water types on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths, post application of glycerol (60 minutes), glycerol (30 minutes), Omnipaque (60 minutes) and Omnipaque (30 minutes), respectively. As most concentrated in the skin, weakly and strongly bound water types are preferentially involved in the OCA-induced water flux in the skin, and thus, are responsible for optical clearing efficiency.

In this study, an extended calculation method for the determination of the water profiles in oil-treated skin is proposed, which is based on the calculation of the ratio between the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm���1) and keratin Amide I at 1650 cm���1. The proposed method is compared with the conventional method based on the ratio of the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm���1) and keratin at 2930 cm���1. The conventional method creates artifacts in the depth profiles of the water concentration in oil-treated skin, showing a lower amount of water in the upper and intermediate layers of the stratum corneum, which is due to the superposition of oil- and keratin-related Raman bands at 2930 cm���1. The proposed extended method shows no artifacts and has the potential to determine the water depth profiles after topical application of formulations on the skin.

Imaging Raman spectroscopy can be used to identify cancerous tissue. Traditionally, a step-by-step scanning of the sample is applied to generate a Raman image, which, however, is too slow for routine examination of patients. By transferring the technique of integral field spectroscopy (IFS) from astronomy to Raman imaging, it becomes possible to record entire Raman images quickly within a single exposure, without the need for a tedious scanning procedure. An IFS-based Raman imaging setup is presented, which is capable of measuring skin ex vivo or in vivo. It is demonstrated how Raman images of healthy and cancerous skin biopsies were recorded and analyzed. (C) The Authors. Published by SPIE under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License.

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.

The application of fiber-coupled Raman probes for the discrimination of cancerous and normal skin has the advantage of a noninvasive in vivo application, easy clinical handling, and access to the majority of body sites, which would otherwise be limited by stationary Raman microscopes. Nevertheless, including optical fibers and miniaturizing optical components, as well as measuring in vivo, involves the sensibility to external perturbation factors that could introduce artifacts to the acquired Raman spectra and thereby potentially reduce classification performance. In this study, typical perturbation factors of Raman measurements with a Raman fiber probe, optimized for clinical in vivo discrimination of skin cancer, were investigated experimentally. Measurements were performed under standardized conditions in clinical settings in vivo on human skin, as well as ex vivo on porcine ears. Raman spectra were analyzed in the fingerprint region between 1150 and 1730 cm−1 using principal component analysis. The largest artifacts in the Raman spectra were found in measurements performed under the influence of strong ambient light conditions as well as after miscellaneous pre-treatments to the skin, such as use of a permanent marker or a sunscreen. Minor influences were also found in measurements using H2O immersion and when varying the probe contact force. The effect of reasonable variation of the fiber-bending radius was found to be of negligible impact. The influence of measurements on hairy or sun-exposed body sites, as well as inter-subject variation, was also investigated. The presented results may serve as a guide to avoid negative effects during the process of data acquisition and so avoid misclassifcation in tumor discrimination.