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Abstract Photodynamic therapy (PDT) is a minimally invasive therapeutic approach that has shown promising results in recent years, particularly in the dermatological clinical treatment of several pathologies, including neoplastic skin diseases. In light of the recent discovery of the photosensitizing properties of a water-soluble group of amino-based flavylium dyes, research efforts have led to the development of a novel synthetic dye with two diethylamino moieties in its structure, 7,4’-di(diethylamino)flavylium (7,4′diN(Et)2). This dye was tested as a potential photosensitizer for PDT of skin cancer. A single light dose of 22.5 J/cm2 efficiently killed SCC-25 (squamous cell carcinoma) and A375 (melanoma) cells, reducing cellular viability by more than 80% in the presence of the flavylium at 0.75 µM. Meanwhile, the negligible cellular toxicity of the dye in the absence of light stimulus points out a wide and safe therapeutic window. Interestingly, significant light-induced toxicity effects were still observed after washing out the compound before cell irradiation. Moreover, out of the three prototype flavylium-loaded hydrogels, each one based on a different polymer (Carbomer, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum and Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose), carbomer-based formulation stood out for its substantial absorbance and fluorescence increment and enhanced1O2 photogeneration activity compared to the flavylium in aqueous solution. The findings of this study provide valuable insights concerning the potential of this flavylium dye as a candidate for photodynamic therapy of skin cancer and strongly support the need for further testing in more advanced biological settings to fully assess its efficacy and safety.

Three-dimensional (3D) printing is an innovative manufacturing method with the potential to revolutionize topical and transdermal dosage forms. Nowadays, it is established that Vat-based photopolymerization (VP) 3D printing technologies offer superior printing efficiency and versatility compared to other 3D printing technologies available on the market. However, there are some limitations that impair their full application in pharmaceutical contexts, such as the lack of a range of biocompatible materials for topical and transdermal applications. This review article explores all types of VP-based 3D printing and discusses the relevance of implementing this kind of technology. We start with a detailed description of the printing process, focusing on the commercial materials available and lab-made resins proposed by different authors. We also review recent studies in this field, which mainly focus on the fabrication of transdermal devices based on microneedle arrays. In the future, it is expected that the manufacturers of 3D printers invest in modifications to the printing apparatus to allow the simultaneous printing of different resins and/or compound types, which will open frontiers to the personalization of treatment approaches.

Canine atopic dermatitis (cAD) is a common and distressing skin condition in dogs, affecting up to 30% of the canine population. It not only impacts their quality of life but also that of their owners. Like human atopic dermatitis (hAD), cAD has a complex pathogenesis, including genetic and environmental factors. Current treatments focus on managing clinical signs, but they can be costly and have limitations. This article emphasizes the importance of preventing cAD from developing in the first place. Understanding the role of the skin’s protective barrier is crucial, as its dysfunction plays a vital role in both hAD and cAD. hAD prevention studies have shown promising results in enhancing the skin barrier, but more research is needed to support more robust conclusions. While hAD primary prevention is currently a focal point of intensive investigation in human medicine, research on cAD primary prevention remains under-researched and almost non-existent. Pioneering effective prevention strategies for cAD holds immense potential to enhance the quality of life for both dogs and their owners. Additionally, it bears the promise of a translational impact on human research. Hence, further exploration of this crucial topic is not only relevant but also timely and imperative, warranting support and encouragement.

Dermal and transdermal drug delivery represents an important strategy to target drugs towards the site of action or to noninvasively enhance treatment activity, circumventing the hepatic first passage and reducing toxicity [...]

This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid–liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1–F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

Rising environmental awareness drives green consumers to purchase sustainable cosmetics based on natural bioactive compounds. The aim of this study was to deliver Rosa canina L. extract as a botanical ingredient in an anti-aging gel using an eco-friendly approach. Rosehip extract was first characterized in terms of its antioxidant activity through a DPPH assay and ROS reduction test and then encapsulated in ethosomal vesicles with different percentages of ethanol. All formulations were characterized in terms of size, polydispersity, zeta potential, and entrapment efficiency. Release and skin penetration/permeation data were obtained through in vitro studies, and cell viability was assessed using an MTT assay on WS1 fibroblasts. Finally, ethosomes were incorporated in hyaluronic gels (1% or 2% w/v) to facilitate skin application, and rheological properties were studied. Rosehip extract (1 mg/mL) revealed a high antioxidant activity and was successfully encapsulated in ethosomes containing 30% ethanol, having small sizes (225.4 ± 7.0 nm), low polydispersity (0.26 ± 0.02), and good entrapment efficiency (93.41 ± 5.30%). This formulation incorporated in a hyaluronic gel 1% w/v showed an optimal pH for skin application (5.6 ± 0.2), good spreadability, and stability over 60 days at 4 °C. Considering sustainable ingredients and eco-friendly manufacturing technology, the ethosomal gel of rosehip extract could be an innovative and green anti-aging skincare product.

The authors would like to make the following corrections about the published paper [...]

Essential oils (EOs) and hydrolates (Hds) are natural sources of biologically active ingredients with broad applications in the cosmetic industry. In this study, nationally produced (mainland Portugal and Azores archipelago) EOs (11) and Hds (7) obtained from forest logging and thinning of Eucalyptus globulus, Pinus pinaster, Pinus pinea and Cryptomeria japonica, were chemically evaluated, and their bioactivity and sensorial properties were assessed. EOs and Hd volatiles (HdVs) were analyzed by GC-FID and GC-MS. 1,8-Cineole was dominant in E. globulus EOs and HdVs, and α- and β-pinene in P. pinaster EOs. Limonene and α-pinene led in P. pinea and C. japonica EOs, respectively. P. pinaster and C. japonica HVs were dominated by α-terpineol and terpinen-4-ol, respectively. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH, ORAC and ROS. C. japonica EO showed the highest antioxidant activity, whereas one of the E. globulus EOs showed the lowest. Antimicrobial activity results revealed different levels of efficacy for Eucalyptus and Pinus EOs while C. japonica EO showed no antimicrobial activity against the selected strains. The perception and applicability of emulsions with 0.5% of EOs were evaluated through an in vivo sensory study. C. japonica emulsion, which has a fresh and earthy odour, was chosen as the most pleasant fragrance (60%), followed by P. pinea emulsion (53%). In summary, some of the studied EOs and Hds showed antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and they are possible candidates to address the consumers demand for more sustainable and responsibly sourced ingredients.

To ensure safety and efficacy, cosmetic products are regulated and controlled worldwide. However, the regulatory approaches of each country may be significantly different and impact the competitiveness and economic viability of the industry. This work presents an updated review and comparison of regulatory requirements from the European Union, United States of America, Canada, Japan, People’s Republic of China and Brazil. It outlines contents such as the definition, classification and categorization of cosmetics, pre-market requirements, ingredients management, general labelling requirements, regulation of claims concerning advertisement and commercial practices, increase of animal testing and marketing bans on cosmetic products. Furthermore, it weighs the impact of regulatory differences on the safety and accessibility of these products in the mentioned regions.

Functionalization of nanoparticles surfaces have been widely used to improve diagnostic and therapeutic biological outcome. Several methods can be applied to modify nanoparticle surface; however, in this article we focus toward a simple and less time-consuming method. We applied an adsorption method on already formulated nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) to functionalize these nanoparticles with three distinct peptides sequences. We selected a cell-penetrating peptide (CPP), a lysine modified model amphipathic peptide (Lys(N3)-MAP), CPP/drug complex, and the neuropeptide Y. The aim of this work is to evaluate the effect of several parameters such as peptide concentration, different types of NLC, different types of peptides, and incubation medium on the physicochemical proprieties of NLC and determine if adsorption occurs. The preliminary results from zeta potential analysis indicate some evidence that this method was successful in adsorbing three types of peptides onto NLC. Several non-covalent interactions appear to be involved in peptide adsorption with the possibility of three adsorption peptide hypothesis that may occur with NLC in solution. Moreover, and for the first time, in silico docking analysis demonstrated strong interaction between CPP MAP and NPY Y1 receptor with high score values when compared to standard antagonist and NPY.

The use of natural products in dermatology is increasingly being pursued due to sustainability and ecological issues, and as a possible way to improve the therapeutic outcome of chronic skin diseases, relieving the burden for both patients and healthcare systems. The legalization of cannabis by a growing number of countries has opened the way for researching the use of cannabinoids in therapeutic topical formulations. Cannabinoids are a diverse class of pharmacologically active compounds produced by Cannabis sativa (phytocannabinoids) and similar molecules (endocannabinoids, synthetic cannabinoids). Humans possess an endocannabinoid system involved in the regulation of several physiological processes, which includes naturally-produced endocannabinoids, and proteins involved in their transport, synthesis and degradation. The modulation of the endocannabinoid system is a promising therapeutic target for multiple diseases, including vascular, mental and neurodegenerative disorders. However, due to the complex nature of this system and its crosstalk with other biological systems, the development of novel target drugs is an ongoing challenging task. The discovery of a skin endocannabinoid system and its role in maintaining skin homeostasis, alongside the anti-inflammatory actions of cannabinoids, has raised interest in their use for the treatment of skin inflammatory diseases, which is the focus of this review. Oral treatments are only effective at high doses, having considerable adverse effects; thus, research into plant-based or synthetic cannabinoids that can be incorporated into high-quality, safe topical products for the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions is timely. Previous studies revealed that such products are usually well tolerated and showed promising results for example in the treatment of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and contact dermatitis. However, further controlled human clinical trials are needed to fully unravel the potential of these compounds, and the possible side effects associated with their topical use.

One of the new trends of personal care industry is the use of organic ingredients derived from nature, in particular, from food-processing residues with proven efficacy. Lycopene is a carotenoid responsible for the red color of several fruits, namely tomato, whose antioxidant and photoprotective effects have been studied. Methods: Lycopene-enriched extracts (LEE) were obtained from tomato waste using supercritical CO2 extraction, incorporated in microemulsions and macroemulsions for topical use, and characterized through GC-MS for the identification of volatile compounds. The aim of this work was to evaluate the impact of the presence of lycopene-enriched extracts developed emulsions through the identification of volatile compounds and by a sensory analysis to assess the odor and color perception and the acceptability of such semi-solid systems as cosmetic products. Results: Volatile compounds were identified in the extract and in the formulations containing the extract. Preliminary data show that the odor of both LEE-loaded microemulsions and LEE-loaded macroemulsions was classified as undefined. The information about the composition did not modify the odor perception but increased the acceptability of some cosmetic products. LEE conferred a yellowish color to formulations, and the information about the formulation composition increased the likelihood of different cosmetic products with this color being bought. Conclusions: The commercialization of personal care products does not only dependent on the associated organoleptic properties, but is influenced by the information about the composition, namely by the presence of an antioxidant compound.

Semisolids constitute a significant proportion of topical pharmaceutical dosage forms available on the market, with creams being considered profitable systems for releasing active substances into the skin. This work aimed at the development of a generic Clotrimazole topical cream, based on the assumptions that assist the development of such formulations. First, the critical parameters to obtain a final formulation as similar as possible to the reference product were defined. Then, the percentages of cetyl palmitate and octyldodecanol were identified as critical variables and chosen for optimization in further studies. A “quality by design” approach was then used to identify the effect of process variability on the structural and functional similarity (Q3) of the generic product qualitatively (Q1) and quantitatively (Q2). A two-factor central composite orthogonal design was applied and eleven different formulations were developed and subjected to physicochemical characterization and product performance studies. The results were used to estimate the influence of the two variables in the variation of the responses, and to determine the optimum point of the tested factors, using a design space approach. Finally, an optimized formulation was obtained and analysed in parallel with the reference. The obtained results agreed with the prediction of the chemometric analysis, validating the reliability of the developed multivariate models. The in vitro release and permeation results were similar for the reference and the generic formulations, supporting the importance of interplaying microstructure properties with product performance and stability. Lastly, based on quality targets and response constraints, optimal working conditions were successfully achieved.

The by-products of olive oil industry are a major ecological issue due to their phenolic content, highly toxic organic load, and low pH. However, they can be recovered and reused, since their components have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotector properties. In this work, oil-in-water creams containing three different olive oil industry by-products extracts were produced without the use of organic solvents. First, the extracts were thoroughly characterized in vitro for cytotoxicity, inhibition of skin enzymes, and antioxidant and photoprotection capacities. Safety studies were then performed, including ocular and skin irritation tests, ecotoxicity evaluation, and in vivo Human Repeat Insult Patch Test. The results obtained in this initial characterization supported the incorporation of the extracts in the cream formulations. After preparation, the creams were characterized for their organoleptic, physicochemical, droplet size and rheological properties, and microbial contamination. The results showed that all formulations were semi-solid creams, with stable pH, compatible with the skin, without microbial contamination, and with the expected droplet size range. The rheological analysis showed shear-thinning behavior with yield stress, with the viscosity decreasing with increasing shear rate. The oscillatory results suggest that the creams have a strong network structure, being easily rubbed into the skin. Finally, compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy were evaluated in vivo, in human volunteers. No adverse reactions were observed after application of the formulations on skin and the cream with the highest concentrations of phenolic compounds showed the highest antioxidant efficiency. In conclusion, the results suggest that olive oil industry by-products extracts have valuable properties that favor their re-use in the cosmetic industry. The example presented here showed their successful incorporation into creams and their impact in these formulations’ appearance, pH, and rheological performance, as well as their in vivo compatibility with skin and antioxidant efficiency.

Innovative formulations, including solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), have been sought to improve skin permeation of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). The present study explores the use of SLNs, prepared using a fusion-emulsification method, to increase skin permeation and in vivo activity of two relevant NSAIDs: A liquid molecule (etofenamate) and a solid one (ibuprofen), formulated in a 2% hydroxypropyl methylcellulose gel through the gelation of SLN suspensions. Compritol® 888 ATO and Tween® 80 were used as a solid lipid and a surfactant, respectively. All production steps were up scalable, resulting in SLNs with high encapsulation efficiency (>90%), a mean particle size of ® Gel 5%) and ibuprofen (Ozonol® 5%). In vivo activity in the rat paw edema inflammation model showed that SLN hydrogels containing lower doses of etofenamate (8.3 times lower) and ibuprofen (16.6 times lower) produced similar effects compared to the commercial formulations, while decreasing edema and inflammatory cell infiltration, and causing no histological changes in the epidermis. These studies demonstrate that encapsulation in SLNs associated to a suitable hydrogel is a promising technological approach to NSAIDs dermal application.

Tacrine (TAC) was the first FDA approved drug for the treatment of Alzheimer’s disease, resulting in increased memory and enhanced cognitive symptoms in patients. However, long-term therapy presents poor patient compliance associated with undesired side effects such as nausea, vomiting and hepatoxicity. To improve its therapeutic efficacy and decrease toxicity, the use of nanoparticles could be applied as a possible solution to delivery TAC. In this context, a project has been designed to develop a new nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) as a delivery system for TAC and conjugate TAC and model amphipathic peptide (MAP) to decrease TAC limitations. Different formulations loaded with TAC and TAC + MAP were prepared using a combination of Compritol 888 ATO as the solid lipid and Transcutol HP as the liquid lipid component. Physical characterization was evaluated in terms of particle size, surface charge, encapsulation efficiency and in vitro drug release studies. Particle size distributions within the nanometer range were obtained with encapsulation efficiencies of 72.4% for the TAC and 85.6% for the TAC + MAP conjugate. Furthermore, cytotoxicity of all NLC formulations was determined against neuroblastoma cell line SH-SY5Y. The optimized TAC delivery system revealed low toxicity suggesting this could be a potential carrier system to deliver TAC. However, TAC + MAP conjugated even encapsulated in the NLC system demonstrated toxicity against the SH-SY5Y cell line.

With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles.

Pickering emulsions are systems composed of two immiscible fluids stabilized by solid organic or inorganic particles. Pickering emulsions are particularly useful in cosmetics, where the surfactants are unwanted, as well as in the pharmaceutical field, where transdermal and/or dermal drug delivery is difficult to achieve and controlled drug release is desired. Here, we studied calcium carbonate particles as stabilizers of Pickering emulsions for topical use. An optimized formulation was obtained using a Quality by Design approach. First, a screening experiment was performed to identify the formulation and process critical variables that affect the quality properties of the Pickering emulsion. The optimization of the production was then studied by establishing the design space. The final formulation was hereinafter investigated regarding the pH, rheological properties, and in vitro cytotoxicity assays. The results showed the formulation had a pH compatible with human skin and a shear thinning behavior. Moreover, this formulation showed a strong network structure, with a suitable spreadability on the skin, allowing an easy application. The in vitro assays were performed to assess the potential cytotoxicity of the calcium carbonate-stabilized emulsion and the particles themselves, and the results revealed that the formulation did not significantly affect the cell viability. In conclusion, the use of calcium carbonate particles as a stabilizer ingredient contributed to achieve an eco-friendly Pickering emulsion.

The development of printable hydrogel inks for extrusion-based 3D printing is opening new possibilities to the production of new and/or improved pharmaceutical forms, specifically for topical application. Alginate and starch are natural polysaccharides that have been extensively exploited due to their biocompatibility, biodegradability, viscosity properties, low toxicity, and relatively low cost. This research work aimed to study the physicochemical and release kinetic effects of starch incorporation in alginate-based 3D hydrogel patches for topical delivery using a quality by design approach. The incorporation of a pregelatinized starch is also proposed as a way to improve the properties of the drug delivery system while maintaining the desired quality characteristics. Critical material attributes and process parameters were identified, and the sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed. The impact of alginate, starch, and CaCl2·2H2O amounts on relevant quality attributes was estimated crosswise. The amount of starch revealed a synergetic impact on porosity (p = 0.0021). An evident increase in the size and quantity of open pores were detected in the as printed patches as well as after crosslinking (15.6 ± 5.2 µm). In vitro drug release studies from the optimized alginate-starch 3D hydrogel patch, using the probe Rhodamine B, showed an initial high burst release, followed by a controlled release mechanism. The results obtained also showed that the viscoelastic properties, printing accuracy, gelation time, microstructure, and release rates can be modulated by varying the amount of starch added to the system. Furthermore, these results can be considered an excellent baseline for future drug release modulation strategies.

Human neutrophil elastase (HNE) is a serine protease that degrades matrix proteins. An excess of HNE may trigger several pathological conditions, such as psoriasis. In this work, we aimed to synthesize, characterize and formulate new HNE inhibitors with a 4-oxo-β-lactam scaffold with less toxicity, as well as therapeutic index in a psoriasis context. HNE inhibitors with 4-oxo-β-lactam scaffolds were synthesized and characterized by NMR, FTIR, melting point, mass spectrometry and elemental analysis. In vitro cytotoxicity and serine protease assays were performed. The compound with the highest cell viability (AAN-16) was selected to be incorporated in an emulsion (AAN-16 E) and in a microemulsion (AAN-16 ME). Formulations were characterized in terms of organoleptic properties, pH, rheology, droplet size distribution, in vitro drug release and in vivo psoriatic activity. All compounds were successfully synthesized according to analytical methodology, with good yields. Both formulations presented suitable physicochemical properties. AAN-16 E presented the most promising therapeutic effects in a murine model of psoriasis. Overall, new HNE inhibitors were synthesized with high and selective activity and incorporated into topical emulsions with potential to treat psoriasis.

Hypopigmentation is a progressive dermatological condition caused by a reduction in the skin pigment, melanin. Its treatment is considered a challenge due to the lack of a highly efficient single therapy. Currently, the main treatments include photochemotherapy, application of corticosteroids and immunosuppressants, and laser. Khellin-based gel-in-oil emulsions appear as a promising alternative since they ensure a concentration of the drug, a natural furanochromone, at the desired location, skin surface. Khellin promotes repigmentation as it forms a dark colored complex after solar irradiation. The aim of this study was the development and characterization (e.g., rheological behaviour, droplet size, tackiness, adhesion and spreadability) of three topical gel-in-oil emulsions prepared with different emollients, formulated through a cold emulsification process, and suitable for the incorporation of khellin. In vitro studies were performed to evaluate the drug release and permeation profiles across artificial membranes and excised human skin, respectively, using Franz-type vertical diffusion cells. The W/O emulsions developed showed macroscopic appearance, shear-thinning behavior with a mean droplet size from 3.28 to 4.28 μm, suitable for topical application. In vitro studies revealed permeation values of about 1% of khellin across the stratum corneum, making these gel-in-oil emulsions promising for preclinical and clinical studies. The cold process, being an easy and low energy production method, represents an innovative strategy to produce khellin-based gel-in-oil emulsions to treat patients with hypopigmentation.

Psoriasis is a common non-communicable chronic immune-mediated skin disease, affecting approximately 125 million people in the world. Its pathogenesis results from a combination of genetic and environmental factors. The pathogenesis of psoriasis seems to be driven by the interaction between innate immune cells, adaptive immune cells and keratinocytes, in a process mediated by cytokines (including interleukins (IL)-6, IL-17 and IL-22, interferon and tumor necrosis factor) and other signaling molecules. This leads to an inflammatory process with increased proliferation of epidermal cells, neo-angiogenesis and infiltration of dendritic cells in the skin. Dysfunctional de novo glucocorticoid synthesis in psoriatic keratinocytes and the skin microbiome have also been suggested as mediators in the pathogenesis of this disease. To understand psoriasis, it is essential to comprehend the processes underlying the skin immunity and neuroendocrinology. This review paper focuses on the skin as a neuroendocrine organ and summarizes what is known about the skin immune system, the brain−skin connection and the role played by the serotonergic system in skin. Subsequently, the alterations of neuroimmune processes and of the serotonergic system in psoriatic skin are discussed, as well as, briefly, the genetic basis of psoriasis.

Fragaria vesca L. (F. vesca), popularly known as wild strawberry, is a plant from the Rosaceae family, found in temperate and subtropical areas of the northern hemisphere. F. vesca leaves have been shown to have antiseptic, emollient, and dermatological protection properties, due to the presence of bioactive compounds, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, ellagitannins, and proanthocyanidins. In this study, a F. vesca extract was obtained by an optimized extraction process, and was characterized by HPLC, ROS scavenging activity, cytotoxicity assays in HaCaT cells, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity determination. The most active extract was then incorporated in a hydrogel with hydroxyethylcellulose at 2% (w/w), which was characterized at the physicochemical, stability, cytotoxicity, and ROS scavenging activity levels to evaluate its quality, safety, and efficacy. In vivo studies, human repeat insult patch testing, and an assay to determine their antioxidant efficacy, were also performed. The results showed that the Fragaria vesca extracts had antioxidant activity and that the F. vesca extract-based hydrogel exhibited cutaneous compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy, being stable, and suitable for topical application.

ABSTRACT Guava (Psidium guajava L.) is a native fruit of the American tropics with commercial applications for its taste, flavor and aroma. Numerous pharmacological uses have been described for it, such as the antiseptic effect of its leaves, the use of the fresh fruit and tea from its leaves for the treatment of diarrhea, dysentery, diabetes mellitus, and others. However, considering its rich composition, the guava also is a potential source of antioxidants to be used in the development of new formulations for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications, the main focus of this research. Herein, we describe the study of the phytochemical composition and the antioxidant activity of a guava extract prepared with non-toxic solvents aiming its use at biological applications. High performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry were employed to identify the major components, while thermoanalytical measurements and hot stage microscopy were used to assess the chemical stability of guava fruit extract. The antioxidant activity was also evaluated assessing the SOD-like activity and ABTS free radical scavenger. The results show that the extract is a rich source of phenolic compounds, such as quercetin, kaempferol, schottenol, among many others. All of the components found in guava extract exhibit biological effects according to the literature data, mainly antioxidant properties.

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 °C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 μg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 μg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 μg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 μg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

The use of mineral water for therapeutic purposes has varied from century to century and from country to country. Its effectiveness depends on the individual experiences of the population and their cultural traditions. Usually, the waters recommended for dermatological treatment are hot springs that contain sulfur or more recently, silicon. The mechanisms by which mineral waters actuate in dermatological disorders are still not clear but it is believed that they involve thermal, mechanical, chemical, immunologic, and anti-oxidant reactions and enzymatic activity. The aim of this study is to characterize the thermal waters of Monfortinho, one of the oldest Portuguese spas, their potential use for the preparation of dermatological formulations (creams), and their effectiveness on the treatment of skin disorders (psoriasis and eczema). To accomplish this, cream formulations with different contents of thermal water were developed. The formulations were characterized in terms of thermal water analysis and physicochemical properties and their effects were studied by skin biometrics in adults (mean age of 54.3 years old) through skin hydration evaluation and evaluated in clinical studies on 22 patients with psoriasis and eczema. The results showed that all the formulations improved the skin hydration and have beneficial effects in relieving the symptoms of psoriasis and other disorders, but no significant differences were observed when thermal water was used (compared to laboratory ultra-pure water).

Quercus Suber Bark from Quercus suber L. is a natural, renewable and biodegradable biomaterial with multifunctional proprieties. In this study, we used it as solid particles to stabilize a Pickering emulsion. The main goal was to produce an optimized topical formulation using biocompatible organic particles as stabilizers of the emulsion instead of the common surfactants, whilst benefiting from Quercus suber L. proprieties. In this work, a Quality by Design (QbD) approach was successfully applied to the production of this emulsion. A screening design was conducted, identifying the critical variables of the formula and process, affecting the critical quality attributes of the emulsion (droplet size distribution). The optimization of the production was made through the establishment of the design space. The stability was also investigated during 30 days, demonstrating that Quercus Suber Bark-stabilized emulsions are stable since the droplet size distribution lowers. In vitro studies were performed to assess antioxidant and antiaging efficacy, which revealed that the formulation had indeed antioxidant proprieties. A physicochemical characterization demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning fluid, ideal for topical administration. The in vivo compatibility study confirmed that the final formulation is not skin irritant, being safe for human use. A sensorial analysis was also performed, using a simple sensory questionnaire, revealing very positive results. Thus, the use of Quercus Suber Bark particles as a multifunctional solid ingredient contributed to achieve a stable, effective and innovative Pickering emulsion with a meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress.

The use of morphine applied topically to painful wounds has potential advantages, such as dose reduction, fewer side effects and compound formulations, have been proposed for this purpose. Given the potential high impact of drug product quality on a patient’s health, the aim of the present study was to develop two stable sterile hydrogels containing morphine hydrochloride, intended for topical application on painful wounds. Two carboxymethylcellulose sodium-based hydrogels were prepared containing 0.125% w/w (F1-MH semi-solid formulation) and 1.0% w/w (F2-MH fluid formulation) morphine hydrochloride (MH), respectively. Studies included a risk assessment approach for definition of the quality target product profile (QTPP) and assessment of critical quality attributes (CQA) of the hydrogels to support product quality and safety. Safe, odourless, yellowish, translucent and homogeneous gels were obtained, with suitable microbiological and pharmaceutical characteristics. The active substance concentration was adapted according to the characteristics of the dose-metering device. Release profiles were investigated using Franz diffusion cells, and characterised by different kinetic models. Increasing gel viscosity prolonged drug release, with rates of 17.9 ± 2.2 μg·cm−2·h−1 (F1-MH) and 258.0 ± 30.4 μg·cm−2·h−1 (F2-MH), allowing for the reduction of the number of applications and improving patient compliance. The gels proved to be stable for up to 60 days at room temperature. The semi-solid and fluid MH-containing hydrogel formulations are safe, stable and suitable for use in hospital settings, which is rather important for wound-related pain management in cancer palliative care or burn patients.

Onychomycosis affects about 15% of the population. This disease causes physical and psychosocial discomfort to infected patients. Topical treatment (creams, solutions, gels, colloidal carriers, and nail lacquers) is usually the most commonly required due to the high toxicity of oral drugs. Currently, the most common topical formulations (creams and lotions) present a low drug delivery to the nail infection. Nail lacquers appear to increase drug delivery and simultaneously improve the effectiveness of treatment with increased patient compliance. These formulations leave a polymer film on the nail plate after solvent evaporation. The duration of the film residence in the nail constitutes an important property of nail lacquer formulation. In this study, a polyurethane polymer was used to delivery antifungals drugs, such as terbinafine hydrochloride (TH) and ciclopirox olamine (CPX) and the influence of its concentration on the properties of nail lacquer formulations was assessed. The nail lacquer containing the lowest polymer concentration (10%) was the most effective regarding the in vitro release, permeation, and antifungal activity. It has also been demonstrated that the application of PU-based nail lacquer improves the nail plate, making it smooth and uniform and reduces the porosity contributing to the greater effectiveness of these vehicles. To conclude, the use of polyurethane in nail formulations is promising for nail therapeutics.

Polymer-based eye drops are the most used drug delivery system to treat dry eye disease (DED). Therefore, the mucoadhesion between the polymer and the ocular mucin is crucial to ensure the efficacy of the treatment. In this context, the present study aimed to evaluate the potential use of in vitro methods to study the mucoadhesion of eye drop solutions and, specifically to evaluate the efficacy of two hyaluronic acid-based formulations (HA), HA 0.15% and 0.30% (w/v) to treat DED. Rheology methods and zeta potential determination were used to study the mucoadhesive properties of both eye drop solutions. All results indicated that interactions occurred between the mucin and the HA, being stronger with HA 0.30%, due to the physical entanglements and hydrogen bounding. In vitro tests on ARPE-19 cell line were performed using a 2D and a 3D dry eye model and the results have shown that pre-treated cells with HA showed a morphology more similar to the hydrated cells in both products, with a high survival rate. The in vitro techniques used in this study have been shown to be suitable to evaluate and predict mucoadhesive properties and the efficacy of the eye drops on relief or treatment of DED. The results obtained from these methods may help in inferring possible in vivo effects.

The skin healing benefits of rice have been known for centuries. Rice (Oryza sativa) water is a food processing waste that can potentially be incorporated into cosmetic formulations. However, no scientific evidence supports their role in skincare products. The aim of this project is to design and develop a topical gel formulation containing rice water and to evaluate its biological properties, namely, the anti-aging and antioxidant rice water properties. Rice water was evaluated in terms of physico-chemical composition and in terms of in vitro biological antioxidant activity and elastase inhibitory effect. Rice water was incorporated into a hydrogel and the developed formulation was subjected to pharmacotechnical tests such as pH and viscosity. Biological and sensory effects were evaluated on a panel of 12 volunteers for 28 days. The safety evaluation study was performed on rice water gel, using the Human Repeat Insult Patch test protocol. Rice water presented in vitro biological antioxidant activity and elastase inhibitory effect. The gel formulation containing 96% rice water was biocompatible with the human skin and presented suitable cosmetic properties. Rice water should be thus considered as an anti-aging ingredient to be used as raw material for skincare applications.

Pharmaceutical approaches based on nanotechnologies and the development of eye drops composed of the mucoadhesive polymers chitosan and hyaluronic acid are emerging strategies for the efficient treatment of ocular diseases. These innovative nanoparticulate systems aim to increase drugs’ bioavailability at the ocular surface. For the successful development of these systems, the evaluation of mucoahesiveness (the interaction between the ocular delivery system and mucins present on the eye) is of utmost importance. In this context, the aim of the present work was to investigate the mucoadhesivity of a novel nanoparticle eye drop formulation containing an antibiotic (ceftazidime) intended to treat eye infections. Eye drop formulations comprised a polymer (hydroxypropyl) methyl cellulose (HPMC) 0.75% (w/v) in an isotonic solution incorporating chitosan/sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP)-hyaluronic acid-based nanoparticles containing ceftazidime. The viscosity of the nanoparticles, and the gels incorporating the nanoparticles were characterized in contact with mucin at different mass ratios, allowing the calculation of the rheological synergism parameter (∆η). Results showed that at different nanoparticle eye formulation:mucin weight ratios, a minimum in viscosity occurred which resulted in a negative rheological synergism. Additionally, the results highlighted the mucoadhesivity of the novel ocular formulation and its ability to interact with the ocular surface, thus increasing the drug residence time in the eye. Moreover, the in vitro release and permeation studies showed a prolonged drug release profile from the chitosan/TPP-hyaluronic acid nanoparticles gel formulation. Furthermore, the gel formulations were not cytotoxic on ARPE-19 and HEK293T cell lines, evaluated by the metabolic and membrane integrity tests. The formulation was stable and the drug active, as shown by microbiological studies. In conclusion, chitosan/TPP-hyaluronic acid nanoparticle eye drop formulations are a promising platform for ocular drug delivery with enhanced mucoadhesive properties.

Despite the high number of medicines on the market, few are specifically indicated for the paediatric population. This problem has usually been solved through the prescription of dosage forms that are often inadequate or contain inadequate doses for paediatric patients. Consequently, the prescription of off-label medicines and the preparation of compounded drugs have taken a prominent role in paediatrics as a way to fill the existent gaps. Thus the development of appropriate medicines for children is of the utmost importance, so the choice of the dosage form is made according to the needs of the paediatric subpopulations to which they are intended, since their aim is not only the compliance but mainly the safety of prescribed medicine. Surveys carried out by the pharmaceutical industry show innovative dosage forms, such as orodispersible systems, oral lyophilisates, multi-particulate systems obtained by microencapsulation, minitablets, oromucosal preparations and their derivatives. Novel administration and primary container-closure systems in order to facilitate the paediatric administration have also been licensed. This article is a critical review of the most recent therapeutic systems for oral administration of medicines in children, as well as of the main innovative issues therein involved.