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Worldwide, the overwhelming majority of parents initiate chest/breastfeeding at birth. Human milk is regarded as optimal nutrition for infants and the perfect version of milk for the first years of life; lactation also prevents disease in chest/breastfeeders. Most birth parents want to chest/breastfeed and it is seen as central to motherhood. Chest/breastfeeding is often challenging, resulting in early cessation. Exclusive pumping—that is, only expressing/pumping milk rather than nursing directly at the breast/chest—provides an alternative for those who cannot or do not want to nurse, while retaining most chest/breastfeeding benefits. Existing literature on EPing predominantly focuses on neonatal intensive care unit settings, milk composition, and quantitative data, such as secondary analyses of nationwide surveys. Despite the growing numbers of exclusive pumpers, there is little-to-no data concerning the lived experiences of exclusive pumpers, particularly pertaining to support needs and information provision. Through a retrospective, cross-sectional survey of over 2,000 exclusive pumpers and longitudinal follow-up with over 300 participants, the Breastfeeding Without Nursing study collected qualitative and quantitative data to explore their lived experiences, including: why some chest/breastfeeding exclusively pump; how they feel about it; and what information and support they need and where they find it. Themes within four domains—the circumstances surrounding exclusive pumping, affective experiences, information, and support—were identified through inductive thematic analysis. The findings of this analysis, combined with descriptive and statistical analysis of quantitative data, demonstrate that exclusive pumpers, in general, wanted to nurse at the breast, but as a result of a variety of socioecological influences, were unable to. This led to feelings of loss, grief, and anger, but also determination and pride. Participants needed earlier and better information, many having been incognizant of exclusive pumping despite receiving chest/breastfeeding education. Online support groups were vital sources of information and support; lactation consultants were often not regarded supportive or providing useful information. Having identified gaps in exclusive pumping information, education, and support, I suggest best practices and future research. Contributions to information science include recognizing the importance of education in overcoming incognizance and using a socioecological perspective to analyze the influences on information experience.

Using archival materials associated with Joanne Tatham & Tom O’Sullivan’s site-specific installation and summer school, ‘The Indirect Exchange of Uncertain Value’ (Collective/Fettes, Edinburgh, 2011), this book chapter (published 2017) discusses the work of the participating artists and speakers (including Tatham & O’Sullivan, Chris Evans, Elizabeth Price) and presents a new essay by Prof. Richard Williams (ECA) in the context of Collective’s move to a new location in Edinburgh. Collective wished to rethink their physical and cultural position within the city, and this Chapter instrumentalises a particular project archive with this in mind, adding the weight of deep associative connections and suggestions formulated through literary and historical allusions to extant materials.

From India Street to the High Street was a lecture outlining the chronological connection between India Street in the vale of Leven, the Turkey red industry, traditional crafts from India, and high street garments that mimic a range of vernacular textile techniques but call to question the ethics of manufacture verses the economy of making.\ud \ud The lecture was delivered on a Study Day considering a range of interpretations of the Paisley shawl legacy, curated by Fiona Jardine at Heriot Watt University, Galashiels.

In 1965, the renowned textile designer, Bernat Klein, launched a series of Personal Colour Guides, designed to help customers choose clothes for themselves based on what colours suited them rather than following fashion trends. Klein analysed the colours of six iris types in paint and based on this, produced a general guide to the colours and tones which he thought would be most complimentary when worn. In doing so, he was at the forefront of the consumer ‘colour analysis’ industry, advocating his approach to choosing colours some 15 years before Carole Jackson published Colour Me Beautiful (1980) or Bernice Kentner published A Rainbow in Your Eyes (1981). Klein’s semi-autobiographical work, Eye for Colour accompanied the launch of the Personal Colour Guides and in it he explains that ‘the main purpose of the colour guides is to help people, men as well as women, to dress better – in the broad, permanent, non-fashion sense of the word; to add good colour sense to their fashion sense; to develop their colour sense – to make them more aware of colours in themselves and in cloths, garments and accessories, to enable them to analyse their own colouring and then enjoy the harmonies and discords that they themselves can create and achieve if they wish to use their sense of colour actively.’ (Klein, 1965. p104) \ud \ud The 'Eye for Colour' Symposium was devoted to exploring the role that colour might play in changing models of fashion consumption and promoting ‘slow’ textiles. With a keynote lecture delivered by the leading textile historian, Mary Schoeser, the Symposium was open to the general public and involved 12 academics and independent researchers speaking on themes connected with: \ud \ud • Colour forecasting and its influence on the fashion industry\ud • Sustainable production linked to these supporting narratives and colour trends\ud • Personal colour choice and its intersection with cultural and commercial determinations\ud • Colour and clothing, and its use in the creation of distinctive identities or signature styles\ud • Colour in slow fashion and the increasing use of archive references\ud \ud Presentations were made by: Suchitra Choudry (independent); Lynn Wilson (Zero Waste Scotland); Maija Nygren (independent); Dr. Susan Kay-Williams (Royal School of Needlework); Jenny Balfour-Paul (University of Exeter); Karen Finlayston (independent); Dr. Tracy Cassidy (University of Huddersfield); Helen Taylor (Heriot-Watt University); Fiona Anderson (ECA); Grainne Rice (National Galleries of Scotland.)

‘Leather and Latex: Materials, Morals and Subcultural Style’ is a one-day workshop focused on the subject of material as a means to approach histories of subcultural style. Involving archivists, conservators, theorists and practitioners the day expands upon the social meanings and political potentialities surrounding these two materials and how they might be historicised and preserved.\ud \ud HommAges presented key aspects of their research interests relating to the historical context of latex fetishism in British and European subcultures. This was illustrated by slides as well as a selection of costumes from the Neu Pneumatik! collection. These contributions were extended through a table discussion with fashion designer Theresa Coburn, synthetics conservator Dr Anita Quye, fashion anthropologist Ted Polhemus and archivist Grace Biggins, chaired by Dr. Fiona Jardine.