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In this work, jute fibers, in the form of fabrics, were subjected to atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) under different conditions (150 Hz or 300 Hz, air as working gas, constant time of 120 s) to tailor their surface chemistry and morphology and consequently properties. The effect of DBD treatment on the surface chemistry of jute fibers was investigated by ATR-FTIR, XPS, and electrokinetic measurements, while FE-SEM and AFM were used to assess the changes in the surface morphology of treated fibers. The electrokinetic measurements and sorption properties monitored by wetting time and capillary height measurements were used to follow aging processes in DBD-treated jute fibers. Changes in the jute fiber surface chemistry, such as more exposed cellulose on the fiber surface due to the removal of surface impurities and non-cellulosic components, decreased lignin and hemicellulose contents, in parallel with cellulose oxidation, and morphology (about 3.2 times higher average roughness, i.e., formation of new pores and capillaries as a result of the intensive etching and ablation of the fiber surface layers) were more pronounced in the case of lower frequency DBD treatment. The obtained results also revealed that both DBD treatments improved the wettability of jute fibers, with lower frequency DBD treatment being more efficient. This investigation confirmed the significant influence of aging effects in jute fibers’ functionalization using plasma.

This paper outlines a novel simple protocol for tuning the structure and properties of jute using sodium periodate (NaIO4) oxidation and coating with alginate. When compared to the raw jute, fabrics oxidized with a 0.2 or 0.4 % NaIO4 solution for 30–120 min exhibited an increased aldehyde group content (0.185 vs. 0.239–0.398 mmol/g), a significantly increased negative zeta potential (from − 8.57 down to − 20.12 mV), a slight disruption of fiber crystallinity, 15.1–37.5 % and 27.9–49.8 % lower fabric maximum force and stiffness, respectively. Owing to the removal of hydrophobic surface barrier, decreased crystallinity index and the presence of micropores on thefabrics' surfaces, oxidized fabrics have a 22.3–29.6 % improved ability for moisture sorption compared to raw fabric. Oxidized fabrics characterized by very long wetting times and excellent antioxidant activities (> 98 %), can find applications as hydrophobic packaging materials. To further extend the utilization of jute in biocarpet engineering such as water-binding geo-prebiotic supports, oxidized fabrics were coated with alginate resulting in 7.9–24.9 % higher moisture sorption and 352–660 times lower wetting times than their oxidized counterparts. This modification protocol has never been applied to lignocellulosic fibers and sheds new light on obtaining jute fabrics with tuned structure and properties intended for various applications.

This study explores the impact of sodium periodate oxidation time (30min, 60min, or 120min) and alginate coating on the capillarity of jute fabrics. Raw jute fabric exhibits a rapid increase in capillary rise height (h) over time, reaching 72mm at 1200s. Fabrics oxidized for 30, 60, and 120min show significantly lower h values of 19, 18, and 28mm at 1200s, respectively, which can be ascribed to the oxidation process itself. Precisely, oxidation-induced conversion of hydroxyl groups of cellulose (the main constituent of jute fiber) to aldehyde groups contributed to the fabric reduced affinity for water, hence negatively affecting its capillarity. Approximately 47% and 55% lower h values of fabrics oxidized for 30 and 60min compared to that oxidized for 120min can be explained by their lower weight loss after oxidation as well as less pronounced liberation of elementary fibers. Oxidized fabrics characterized by low capillarity can be used for the manufacturing of packaging materials, outdoor gear, and protective covers for crops. To expand jute fabric applications in biocarpet engineering, that is, to obtain polysaccharide-based supports, raw and oxidized jute fabrics were treated with a 1% sodium alginate solution. At 1200s, oxidized fabrics coated with alginate exhibited 4.3–5.8 times higher h values compared to solely oxidized counterparts. The diffusion coefficients of oxidized fabrics coated with alginate increase up to 35% with prolonged oxidation, emphasizing the oxidation impact on alginate binding.

Biodegradable mulch films from cellulose (CELL), cellulose/polycaprolactone (CELL/PCL), cellulose/polycaprolactone/keratin (CELL/PCL/KER) and cellulose/polycaprolactone/keratin/ground calcium carbonate (CELL/PCL/KER/GCC) were prepared using Ionic liquid as a green solvent. Pure cellulose biopolymer is characterised by better mechanical properties (tensile strength - force per unit cross-sectional area at breakage - of 75.3 MPa and modulus of elasticity of 944.4 MPa) than the other studied samples which is attributed to the formation of partially miscible polymer blends. Among samples containing PCL, CELL/PCL/KER/GCC has the highest tensile strength and modulus of elasticity. The addition of KER or KER/GCC to CELL/PCL films resulted in an increment in melting temperature and an improvement of sample crystallinity. The light transmittance of all films was >60 %. The incorporation of KER enhanced the biodegradability of the biocomposites, while KER/GCC addition slightly inhibited degradation due to an increased hydrophobicity and crystallisation growth of semi-crystalline biopolymers. The reported method for mulch film preparation is green and recyclable, and, when including a readily available source of KER, such as by extraction from waste chicken feathers, enables conversion to organic biofertiliser. The findings of this study contributed to sustainable agriculture by providing nutrients that enhance the growth speed of the plant, and hence food production, and reduce environmental pressure. Inclusion of GCC additionally provides not only Ca2+ for plant consumption but also soil pH control.

Green tea aqueous extract was prepared and characterized regarding total flavonoids and total phenolic contents as well as antioxidant activity (assessed by ABTS method). The characterized aqueous extract was used for dyeing and functionalization of 100% cotton and cotton/linen (47%/53% and 70%/30%) fabrics. Fabric color strength (K/S) values and their antioxidant activities before and after washing were compared. The obtained results revealed that 100% cotton (GTI), 47%/53% cotton/linen (GTII), and 70%/30% cotton/linen (GTIII) fabrics have K/S values ranging between 8.33 and 10.85. After one washing cycle, these values decreased significantly. On the other hand, dyed fabrics showed excellent (100 %) ABTS radical scavenging ability which remained excellent (GTII) or decreased to medium (GTI and GTIII) levels after one washing cycle. Based on the obtained results, it can be concluded that 47%/53% cotton/linen fabric is the most suitable for functional clothing capable of trapping the free radial of oxygen species. The current paper represents a step towards a more sustainable textile industry that could undoubtedly contribute to overcoming the environmental problems caused by the textile industry.

The reduction of water pollution represents one of the priority topics of the EU’s goal to achieve climate neutrality by 2050. Herby textile industry is focused on developments in numerous environmental and social issues, including high emissions, high water and/or energy consumption and heavy pollution [1]. Coloured effluents from this industry disposed into natural ecosystems are responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution [2]. The European Union aims to reduce textile waste and increase the life cycle and recycling of textiles as part of the plan to achieve a circular economy by 2050 by sustainable products and empowering consumers to participate in the green transition [2]. One of the main research topics connecting textile industry and waste water reduction is found in synthesis of eco-friendly dyes which are superior to their natural analogues due to the excellent dyeing capabilities and colour fastness properties. Among these, azo pyridine dyes gained attention for the simplicity of their preparation, good colour fastness, high tinctorial strength, thermal and optical stability [3]. Traditionally, applied as disperse dyes, they have low water solubility and are used for colouring mostly synthetic fibres. Recent findings showed that the introduction of the pyridinium ring into pyridone molecule resulted in enhanced water solubility of the dyes and improved affinity towards various natural and synthetic fibres, especially wool and cellulose diacetate fibres [4]. For the purpose of addressing environmental issues in the textile industry, in this work, two pyridinium-based azo pyridone dyes with improved solubility and affinity towards different fibres, are used for dyeing wool fabric. The results show that the same dyebath can be efficiently used multiple times, therefore reducing waste in the water while securing the optimizing dying. The obtained fabrics from different cycles are further characterized by K/S values while the residue of the dye in

The reduction of water pollution represents one of the priority topics of the EU’s goal to achieve climate neutrality by 2050. Considering this, the concept of reusing the same dyebath for multiple dyeing cycles is proposed. For this purpose, two pyridinium-based azo pyridone dyes with improved solubility and affinity towards different fibers, are used for dyeing wool fabric. It is demonstrated that the dye concentration in wastewater could be reduced up to four times by recirculation of the same dyebath 5 times. The dyed fabrics obtained in each cycle are further characterized regarding color strength (K/S) and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), while their antioxidant potential is evaluated by ABTS (2,2’-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid)) test. The results revealed that the proposed concept could be used for obtaining multifunctional wool fabrics by following the principles of sustainable development of reducing the effluent load in wastewater.

Jute fibers are characterized by a complex layered structure with the presence of a hydrophobic surface outer layer consisting of a mixture of waxes and fats. This outer layer is responsible for fibers' low sorption properties. In this work, raw jute fabric was subjected to atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) under different conditions (150 Hz and 15.2 kV, vs. 300 Hz and 12.6 kV, air as working gas, constant time of 120 s) to remove the mentioned hydrophobic layer. Changes in the surface chemistry of DBD modified jute fabrics were monitored by ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and measurement of the electrokinetic properties, while the fabric sorption properties were evaluated by measuring the wetting time and capillarity. Special attention was given to the aging effect investigated up to fourteen days after plasma treatment. The obtained results reveal that the measurement of the electrokinetic properties could be used to follow changes in the surface chemistry of DBD treated jute fabrics due to the post-plasma reactions (Fig. 1) and confirm the significance of aging effects in natural cellulose fibers’ functionalization using plasma. Although the changes in the fabric surface chemistry were more pronounced for fabric treated with a higher DBD frequency DBD, a lower frequency DBD treatment resulted in better sorption properties. Both DBD treatments and aging decreased wetting time from 145.9±6.0 s for raw jute fabric down to 1.2±0.1 s for a lower frequency DBD treated fabric after 7 days of aging. Independently on the applied DBD treatment conditions, the jute fabrics' capillarity was significantly improved; i.e., their capillary height increased from 87 mm for the raw jute fabrics up to 138 mm and 120 mm for a lower and higher frequency DBD treated fabrics, respectively.

This investigation represents a novel approach for tuning the jute structure and properties using sodium periodate (NaIO4) oxidation. The obtained results revealed that the jute fabrics exhibited an increase in the aldehyde group content (for up to 114.7%) with an increase in the NaIO4 concentration and/or oxidation duration. Due to the decline in the cellulose lateral order index (LOI) and fiber crystallinity index after oxidation, it can be concluded that jute crystalline areas are affected by sodium periodate oxidation. Both mentioned parameters are responsible for fabric mechanical properties, so, it was expected that by decreasing the LOI and jute fibers’ crystallinity, their maximum force and stiffness will decrease too. This behavior is also attributed to the fiber damage, which is the most pronounced for the fabric treated with 0.4% NaIO4 for 120 min. Besides slightly deteriorated mechanical properties, fabrics oxidized with 0.2% NaIO4 for 60 or 120 min and with 0.4% NaIO4 for 60 min showed lower mass loss (6.78-12.22%) after 750 abrasion cycles compared to the raw jute (18.94%). Furthermore, oxidation led to obtaining fabrics with enhanced moisture sorption and water retention power that are inversely proportional to the fiber crystallinity. Due to the opportunity for tuning fiber structure and properties oxidized fabrics can be considered for various applications such as geo-prebiotic supports for cyanobacteria growth in biocarpet engineering, i.e., to promote a sustainable relationship between the microbiota and abiotic constituents on the degraded land surface.

Wide commercial application of azo pyridone dyes rests on the cost-effectiveness of their preparation and almost innumerable possibilities for the synthesis by combining various diazo and coupling pyridone components that enable tuning of targeted properties. The great significance of these dyes in the last few decades is due to their outstanding properties, such as vivid colors and good color fastness properties. Azo pyridone dyes are also applicable in different coloration related processes such as inkjet printing and liquid crystal displays. On the other hand, they are recognized as valuable compounds in biological studies, as they possess antioxidant, antimicrobial and antiproliferative properties. In this work, three novel 6-hydroxy-4-methyl-1-pyridinium-2-pyridone based dyes bearing three bioactive heterocyclic rings in their structures are synthesized, wherein thiazole based anilines (2-aminothiazole, 2-aminobenzothiazole, 6-methoxy-2-aminobenzothiazole) are used as diazo components. The compounds are characterized by melting points, NMR and FTIR spectroscopy. The solvatochromic properties are investigated in solvents of different properties. Furthermore, the antioxidant capacities of the compounds are evaluated by ABTS (2,2'-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) assay, while antimicrobial activity is determined by broth microdilution method against five bacterial strains (S. aureus, E. faecalis, B. subtilis, E. coli and K. pneumoniae) and one fungal strain (C. albicans)., Široka komercijalna upotreba piridonskih azo boja zasniva se na njihovoj relativno jeftinoj i jednostavnoj pripremi, kao i činjenici da se veliki broj kuplujućih i diazo komponenti mogu međusobno kombinovati kako bi se dobile boje odgovarajućih svojstava. Veliki značaj ovih boja poslednjih nekoliko decenija, ogleda se u njihovim istaknutim svojstvima kao što su živopisna obojenja i dobra postojanost. Ove boje, takođe, nalaze primenu u ink-džet štampi i LCD ekranima. Sa druge strane, ove boje predstavljaju značajna jedinjenja u biološkim studijama, jer poseduju antioksidativnu, antimikrobnu i antiproliferativnu aktivnost. U ovom radu, sintetisane su tri boje koje u svojoj strukturi obuhvataju tri bioakativna heterociklična jezgra, pri čemu je kao kuplujuća komponenta korišćen 6-hidroksi-4-metil-1-piridinijum-2-piridon, a kao diazo komponente anilini na bazi tiazola (2-aminotiazol, 2-aminobenzotiazol i 6-metoksi-2-aminobenzotiazol). Jedinjenja su okarakterisana temperaturom topljenja, NMR i FTIR spektroskopijama. Solvatohromna svojstva su ispitana u rastvaračima različitih svojstava. Antioksidativna aktivnost jedinjenja ispitana je ABTS (2,2'-azino-bis-3-etilbenzotiazolin-6-sulfonat) testom, dok je minimalna inhibitorna koncentracija ispitana primenom mikrodilucione metode u bujonu prema 5 bakterijskih sojeva (S. aureus, E. faecalis, B. subtilis, E. coli i K. pneumoniae), kao i prema oportunističkoj gljivici C. albicans.

Green, black, rooibos, and hibiscus tea (GT, BT, RT, and HT) aqueous extracts were prepared and characterized in terms of total flavonoids (TFC) and total phenolic (TPC) contents and antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. BT has the highest, while HT has the lowest TFC (1213 vs. 415 mg l–1), while the extracts’ TPCs (2283 – 7251 mg l–1) decreased in the following order: BT > GT > RT > HT. Their antioxidant activities of 78.1 – 93.1% and 97.8 – 100% were determined according to DPPH and ABTS methods, respectively. BT and especially GT aqueous extracts possessed mild effects against several microorganisms. All examined extracts have an affinity for dyeing wool, cellulose acetate, polyamide, and cotton, which is proven by the color strength values of 1.65–19.12. Wool, polyacrylonitrile, polyester, polyamide, cotton, and cellulose acetate functionalized with GT aqueous extract inhibited the growth of S. aureus and E. coli, while polyacrylonitrile and cotton also inhibited the growth of E. faecalis, and C. albicans, respectively. Wide inhibition zones for S. aureus were observed for fabrics functionalized with BT aqueous extract. Generally, the investigated fabrics showed very high (81.60 – 100%) ABTS radical scavenging ability independent of the extract used. TPCs have good linear correlations with the antioxidant activities of wool and polyacrylonitrile determined by the DPPH method. Fabrics with different chemical compositions dyed and/or functionalized with GT or BT aqueous extracts can be used to produce high-valueadded medical textiles with therapeutic, prophylactic, and protective functions. They can find potential applications in wound treatment, especially in skin wounds that are susceptible to infection with S. aureus. Moreover, wool and cotton functionalized with GT or BT aqueous extract can also be considered for use in disposable medical textiles like bandages and gauze used in the wound-healing process.

This paper represents a comprehensive review of the effect of elastane and common wet processes (bleaching, dyeing, and softening) on the properties of 100% cotton and half or full plated cotton/elastane single jersey knitted fabrics. The fabrics were characterized in terms of their structural (fabric weight, thickness, and stitch density), comfort (air permeability and water vapor resistance), mechanical (stiffness, bursting elongation, and bursting strength), and antistatic (volume electrical resistivity) properties. Fabrics’ antistatic properties were further improved by in situ synthesis of Cu-based nanoparticles (CuNPs) on their surfaces. Such fabrics can be also considered as bioactive since they possessed excellent antioxidant (determined using the ABTS method) and antimicrobial (against E. Coli, S. aureus, and C. albicans) activities. The last section of this chapter is focused on proposing a novel circular economy solution for the disposal of softened cotton and cotton/elastane knitted fabric waste collected from the textile industry (i.e., after clothing cutting). For that purpose, selected fabrics were revalorized as adsorbents for the widely used textile dye Congo Red and the maximum dye adsorption was tested using isotherm models. Thereafter, the fabrics with adsorbed Congo Red dye were evaluated as antistatic and dissipative fabrics, i.e., as alternative non-metal-based conductive textiles.

Sodium alginate aqueous solutions of different concentrations (0.5, 1.0, or 2.0%) were used for improving the sorption properties (evaluated through the determination of water retention power (WRP) and wetting time (WT)) of raw jute fabric. The influence of drying conditions (never-dried samples, samples dried at 60 °C or at room temperature) on the sorption properties of alginate-treated jute fabrics was also studied. Independently on the examined method (centrifuge or water absorption method), the same trend of improvement in WRP of alginate-treated fabrics was observed. The WRP of never-dried fabric treated with 2.0% sodium alginate solution determined using the water absorption or centrifuge method increased by 4.8 or 3.3 times compared to raw jute fabric, respectively. Moreover, the WT of jute fabrics decreased from 206.9±6.6 s down to 1.7±0.1 s after the treatment with 0.5% sodium alginate solution. The improved sorption properties of alginate-treated jute fabrics are attributed to the alginate layer on the fabric surface having a higher number of accessible carboxyl groups as well as hydroxyl groups capable of forming new hydrogen bonds with water molecules., Vodeni rastvori natrijum-alginata različitih koncentracija (0,5, 1,0 ili 2,0%) korišćeni su za poboljšanje sorpcionih svojstava (procenjenih određivanjem sposobnosti zadržavanja vode (WRP) i vremena kvašenja (WT)) sirove tkanine jute. Takođe je proučavan uticaj uslova sušenja (neosušeni uzorci, uzorci sušeni na 60 °C ili na sobnoj temperaturi) na sorpciona svojstva tkanina jute tretiranih alginatom. Nezavisno od metode ispitivanja (centrifugiranjem ili apsorpcijom vode posle potapanja), dobijen je isti trend poboljšanja sposobnosti zadržavanja vode tkanina tretiranih alginatom. Sposobnost zadržavanja vode nesušene tkanine tretirane 2,0% rastvorom natrijum-alginata, određene metodom apsorpcije vode posle potapanja ili centrifugiranjem, povećana je 4,8 ili 3,3 puta u poređenju sa sirovom tkaninom jute, respektivno. Štaviše, tretman tkanina jute 0,5% rastvorom natrijum-alginata dovodi do smanjenja vremena kvašenja sa 206,9±6,6 s na 1,7±0,1 s. Poboljšana sorpciona svojstva tkanina jute tretiranih alginatom pripisuju se sloju alginata na njihovoj površini sa većim brojem dostupnih karboksilnihi hidroksilnih grupa sposobnih da formiraju nove vodonične veze sa molekulima vode.

Ionic liquid 1-butyl-3-methylimidazolium chloride [BMIM][Cl] was used to prepare cellulose (CELL), cellulose/polycaprolactone (CELL/PCL), cellulose/polycaprolactone/keratin (CELL/PCL/KER), and cellulose/polycaprolactone/keratin/ground calcium carbonate (CELL/PCL/KER/GCC) biodegradable mulch films. Attenuated Total Reflectance Fourier-Transform Infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy, optical microscopy, and Field-Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FE-SEM) were used to verify the films’ surface chemistry and morphology. Mulch film made of only cellulose regenerated from ionic liquid solution exhibited the highest tensile strength (75.3 ± 2.1 MPa) and modulus of elasticity of 944.4 ± 2.0 MPa. Among samples containing PCL, CELL/PCL/KER/GCC is characterized by the highest tensile strength (15.8 ± 0.4 MPa) and modulus of elasticity (687.5 ± 16.6 MPa). The film’s breaking strain decreased for all samples containing PCL upon the addition of KER and KER/GCC. The melting temperature of pure PCL is 62.3 °C, whereas that of CELL/PCL film has a slight tendency for melting point depression (61.0 °C), which is a characteristic of partially miscible polymer blends. Furthermore, Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) analysis revealed that the addition of KER or KER/GCC to CELL/PCL films resulted in an increment in melting temperature from 61.0 to 62.6 and 68.9 °C and an improvement in sample crystallinity by 2.2 and 3.0 times, respectively. The light transmittance of all studied samples was greater than 60%. The reported method for mulch film preparation is green and recyclable ([BMIM][Cl] can be recovered), and the inclusion of KER derived by extraction from waste chicken feathers enables conversion to organic biofertilizer. The findings of this study contribute to sustainable agriculture by providing nutrients that enhance the growth rate of plants, and hence food production, while reducing environmental pressure. The addition of GCC furthermore provides a source of Ca2+ for plant

Raw jute fabric was treated with 0.5, 1.0, or 2.0% chitosan solution to improve its sorption properties (evaluated through the moisture sorption and adsorption of textile dye Reactive Orange 16 (RO 16)), which are essential for fabric utilization as geo-prebiotic polysaccharide support that should provide the necessary water for the growth of cyanobacterial communities in biocarpet engineering. Chitosan-treated fabrics possessed 39–78% higher moisture sorption values than the untreated ones. Concerning the dye adsorption, with the increase in its initial concentration, the adsorption potential of raw and fabrics treated with 0.5 or 1.0% chitosan solution was increased up to 1.9 times. The dye adsorption onto these fabrics was exothermic and enthalpy driven. By increasing the chitosan solution percentage up to 1.0%, fabric adsorption potential increased up to 2.2 times. An inverse relationship was observed in the case of the fabric treated with 2.0% chitosan solution, its adsorption potential decreased with increasing the initial dye concentration and temperature due to the different dominant binding interactions. Concerning the contact time, dye adsorption onto fabric treated with 1.0% chitosan solution was rapid in the first 2 h, while the equilibrium was attained after 4.5 h. The isotherm and kinetic data were represented by the Langmuir model and the pseudo-second-order kinetic model, respectively.

In this paper, raw jute fabric was subjected to atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge (at 150 or 300 Hz) to enhance its wettability, i.e., capillarity and wetting time. Attenuated Total Reflectance-Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FE-SEM) were used to assess the changes in the fabrics’ surface chemistry and morphology induced by plasma treatments. The obtained results revealed that both plasma treatments enhanced the wettability of jute fabrics, which could be ascribed to the changes in the fibers’ surface chemistry (the removal of non-cellulosic components, exposure of the cellulose molecules, and oxidation) and morphology (increased roughness due to etching of the surface layers and partial fibrillation). Capillary rise heights increased by approximately 1.8 and 1.9 times, and wetting times were 35 and 34 times shorter 24 h after the plasma treatment at 150 and 300 Hz, respectively. Special attention was given to the aging effect of plasma treatment indicated no significant changes in the fabrics’ capillarity and wetting time after 28 and 7 days, respectively, proving the durability of the effects of plasma treatment. Plasma-treated raw jute fabrics could be used as water-binding geo-prebiotic polysaccharide supports to provide the necessary water for the initial growth of cyanobacterial biocrusts. The lack of moisture is the main constraint in biocrust development after cyanobacterial inoculation. The combination of such water-supportive fabrics and cyanobacterial strains could be used for the rehabilitation of various degraded lands, sediments, and substrates, as well as for air and water pollution control.

Raw jute fabric was chemically modified with 1 % NaOH for 30 min, 17.5 % NaOH for 5 min or with 0.7 % NaClO2 for 30 and 60 min to study the influence of changes in the chemical composition of the fabrics and quantity of carboxyl groups on the biosorption capacity of the fabrics for nickel ions. The effects of contact time and initial concentration of nickel ions on the biosorp- tion capacity of the fabrics were also investigated. The obtained results rev- ealed that the biosorption of nickel ions can be explained by the pseudo-sec- ond-order kinetic model, while the experimental isotherm data fit better with the Langmuir model. The calculated ratios between maximal biosorption cap- acity (6.30–12.06 mg g-1) of the jute fabrics and carboxyl group quantity indi- cated that approximately half of the carboxyl groups of the fabrics’ would be involved in binding nickel ions during biosorption. Therefore, the quantity of carboxyl groups can be used to predict the maximal biosorption capacity of jute fabrics toward nickel ions. In the case of oxidized jute fabrics, the lignin rem- oval, and consequently increased content of cellulose and hemicelluloses, also contributed to a higher biosorption capacity., Сирова тканина од јуте је хемијски модификована 1 % NaOH у току 30 min, 17,5 % NaOH у току 5 min или 0,7 % NaClO2 у току 30 и 60 min у циљу испитивања утицаја промена хемијског састава и садржаја карбоксилних група на биосорпциони капацитет тканина према јонима никла. Такође, испитиван је и утицај времена контакта тканина са раствором NiSO4 и почетне концентрације раствора никла на биосорпциони капацитет тканина од јуте. Добијени резултати указују на то да се процес биосорпције никла може описати кинетичким моделом псеудо-другог реда, а равнотежне вредности добијене за сорпцију никла се боље слажу са Langmuir адсорпционом изотермом. Израчунати однос између максималних биосорпционих капацитета тканина од јуте (6,30–12,06 mg g-1) и садржаја карбоксилних група указују на то да ће приближно половина карбоксилних група учествовати у везивању јона никла током биосорпције. Према томе, садржај карбоксилних група се може користити као индикатор максималног биосорпционог капацитета тканина од јуте према јонима никла. Код оксидисане тканине, уклањање лигнина које је праћено са повећањем садржаја целулозе и хемицелулоза је такође допринело већем биосорпционом капацитету.

The objective of this investigation was to obtain jute fabrics with enhanced sorption properties (by using simple and cost-effective alkali and oxidative modifications) and a long life cycle. The applied alkali modifications lead to hemicellulose removal and decreased the fibers’ crystallinity, both contributing to enhanced fibers’ sorption properties, i.e., water retention power and degree of fibers’ swelling up to 49 % and 70 %, respectively. A connection between cellulose polymorphs’ (cellulose I and cellulose II) contents (determined by XRD), fibers’ surface morphology (verified by FESEM), fabrics’ crimp, and capillarity of jute fabrics modified with 17.5 % NaOH was established. During the oxidative modifications, significant changes in jute fibers’ chemical composition and structure (i.e., lignin removal and more homogeneous middle lamellae) occurred which further resulted in enhanced jute fabrics’ water retention power and capillarity as well as fibers’ swelling up to 80 %, 75 %, and 54 %, compared to the raw jute, respectively. In order to move towards a circular economy and to ensure the recycling and re-use of recycled fabrics, the jute fabrics with enhanced sorption properties were evaluated as biosorbents for anthraquinone dye C. I. Acid Blue 111. The obtained results revealed that the jute fabrics’ maximum biosorption capacities for this dye ranged from 12.94 to 18.97 mg/g, while the equilibrium adsorption data were highly consistent with the Langmuir isotherm model. Moreover, based on the predicted dye pKa values, the fabric zeta potential, content of carboxyl and aldehyde groups as well as hydrogen bond intensity (determined by ATR-FTIR), a possible mechanism of the dye biosorption onto jute fabric waste was proposed.