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Current treatment of vitiligo is still a great challenge, since most cases of vitiligo have variable re-pigmentation outcomes due to their unpredictable responses to existing therapeutic regimens. There is an urgent need to identify this re-pigmentation process and to develop novel therapies. This review illustrates the most current research and latest understanding of vitiligo skin re-pigmentation and related regulatory mechanisms. Literature was collected from PubMed until January 2020, using the search terms including "vitiligo," "re-pigmentation," "phototherapy," "narrow-band ultraviolet B, " "excimer," "fractional carbon dioxide laser," and "melanocyte stem cells." Literature was mainly derived from English articles. Article type was not limited. Emerging evidence suggests that patients with vitiligo present various re-pigmentation patterns following ultraviolet B phototherapy, which relies on different cell reservoirs from the perilesional margins and/or from uninvolved hair follicles to replenish functional melanocytes that are lost in vitiliginous skin. The following events are likely to be involved in this re-pigmentation process, including: 1) changes in the paracrine secretion and distribution of transforming growth factor-β1 in the bulge area and in the epidermis; 2) the enhanced transfer of dermal pro-melanogenic growth factors to the epidermis; and 3) the induction of a C-X-C motif chemokine ligand (CXCL) 12-enriched micro-environment that efficiently recruits CXCR4- or CXCR7-positive melanocytes. Ongoing studies on the cellular and molecular events underlying vitiligo re-pigmentation will help design new therapeutic strategies to improve treatment outcomes.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin production and, accordingly, is the most prominent target for inhibiting hyperpigmentation. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors have been identified, but most of those lack clinical efficacy because they were identified using mushroom tyrosinase as the target. Therefore, we used recombinant human tyrosinase to screen a library of 50,000 compounds and compared the active screening hits with well-known whitening ingredients. Hydroquinone and its derivative arbutin only weakly inhibited human tyrosinase with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC 50 ) in the millimolar range, and kojic acid showed a weak efficacy (IC 50 > 500 μmol/L). The most potent inhibitors of human tyrosinase identified in this screen were resorcinyl-thiazole derivatives, especially the newly identified Thiamidol (Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany) (isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol), which had an IC 50 of 1.1 μmol/L. In contrast, Thiamidol only weakly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase (IC 50  = 108 μmol/L). In melanocyte cultures, Thiamidol strongly but reversibly inhibited melanin production (IC 50  = 0.9 μmol/L), whereas hydroquinone irreversibly inhibited melanogenesis (IC 50  = 16.3 μmol/L). Clinically, Thiamidol visibly reduced the appearance of age spots within 4 weeks, and after 12 weeks some age spots were indistinguishable from the normal adjacent skin. The full potential of Thiamidol to reduce hyperpigmentation of human skin needs to be explored in future studies., (Copyright © 2018 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Erythema (i.e. visible redness) and DNA damage caused by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) in human skin have similar action spectra and show good correlation after a single exposure to UVR. We explored the potential to use instrumental assessments of erythema as a surrogate for DNA damage after repeated exposures to UVR. We exposed 40 human subjects to three different exposure schedules using two different UVR sources. Cyclobutane-pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) in skin biopsies were measured by immunofluorescence, and erythema was assessed by both the Erythemal Index (EI) and the Oxy-hemoglobin (Oxy-Hb) content. Surprisingly, the skin with the highest cumulative dose ended up with the lowest level of DNA damage, and with the least erythema, as assessed by Oxy-Hb (but not EI) 24 h after the last UV exposure. Although the level of CPDs, on average, paralleled Oxy-Hb (R 2 = 0.80-0.94, P = 0.03-0.11), the correlation did not hold for the pooled individual measurements (R 2 = 0.009, P = 0.37) due to potential individual differences in UV-induced photoadaptation. We suggest that the methodology may be optimized to improve the correlation between DNA damage level and erythema to enable noninvasive risk assessment based on erythema/Oxy-Hb content for individual human subjects., (© 2017 The American Society of Photobiology.)

Age spots, also called solar lentigines and lentigo senilis, are light brown to black pigmented lesions of various sizes that typically develop in chronically sun-exposed skin. It is well known that age spots are strongly related to chronic sun exposure and are associated with photodamage and an increased risk for skin cancer; however, the mechanisms underlying their development remain poorly understood. We used immunohistochemical analysis and microarray analysis to investigate the processes involved in their formation, focusing on specific markers associated with the functions and proliferation of melanocytes and keratinocytes. A total of 193 genes were differentially expressed in age spots, but melanocyte pigment genes were not among them. The increased expression of keratins 5 and 10, markers of basal and suprabasal keratinocytes, respectively, in age spots suggests that the increased proliferation of basal keratinocytes combined with the decreased turnover of suprabasal keratinocytes leads to the exaggerated formation of rete ridges in lesional epidermis which in turn disrupts the normal processing of melanin upwards from the basal layer. Based on our results, we propose a model for the development of age spots that explains the accumulation of melanin and the development of extensive rete ridges in those hyperpigmented lesions., (© 2016 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

More than 375 genes have been identified that are involved in regulating skin pigmentation and these act during development, survival, differentiation, and/or responses of melanocytes to the environment. Many of these genes have been cloned, and disruptions of their functions are associated with various pigmentary diseases; however, many remain to be identified. We have performed a series of microarray analyses of hyperpigmented compared with less pigmented skin to identify genes responsible for these differences. The rationale and goal for this study was to perform a meta-analysis on these microarray databases to identify genes that may be significantly involved in regulating skin phenotype either directly or indirectly that might not have been identified due to subtle differences by any of these individual studies alone. The meta-analysis demonstrates that 1,271 probes representing 921 genes are differentially expressed at significant levels in the 5 microarray data sets compared, providing new insights into the variety of genes involved in determining skin phenotype. Immunohistochemistry was used to validate two of these markers at the protein level (TRIM63 and QPCT), and we discuss the possible functions of these genes in regulating skin physiology.

The AMPK-related kinase NUAK2 has been implicated in melanoma growth and survival outcomes, but its therapeutic utility has yet to be confirmed. In this study, we show how its genetic amplification in PTEN-deficient melanomas may rationalize the use of CDK2 inhibitors as a therapeutic strategy. Analysis of array-CGH data revealed that PTEN deficiency is coupled tightly with genomic amplification encompassing the NUAK2 locus, a finding strengthened by immunohistochemical evidence that phospho-Akt overexpression was correlated with NUAK2 expression in clinical specimens of acral melanoma. Functional studies in melanoma cells showed that inactivation of the PI3K pathway upregulated p21 expression and reduced the number of cells in S phase. NUAK2 silencing and inactivation of the PI3K pathway efficiently controlled CDK2 expression, whereas CDK2 inactivation specifically abrogated the growth of NUAK2-amplified and PTEN-deficient melanoma cells. Immunohistochemical analyses confirmed an association of CDK2 expression with NUAK2 amplification and p-Akt expression in melanomas. Finally, pharmacologic inhibition of CDK2 was sufficient to suppress the growth of NUAK2-amplified and PTEN-deficient melanoma cells in vitro and in vivo. Overall, our results show how CDK2 blockade may offer a promising therapy for genetically defined melanomas, where NUAK2 is amplified and PTEN is deleted., (©2015 American Association for Cancer Research.)

Human skin colour, ie pigmentation, differs widely among individuals, as do their responses to various types of ultraviolet radiation (UV) and their risks of skin cancer. In some individuals, UV-induced pigmentation persists for months to years in a phenomenon termed long-lasting pigmentation (LLP). It is unclear whether LLP is an indicator of potential risk for skin cancer. LLP seems to have similar features to other forms of hyperpigmentation, eg solar lentigines or age spots, which are clinical markers of photodamage and risk factors for precancerous lesions. To investigate what UV-induced molecular changes may persist in individuals with LLP, clinical specimens from non-sunburn-inducing repeated UV exposures (UVA, UVB or UVA + UVB) at 4 months post-exposure (short-term LLP) were evaluated by microarray analysis and dataset mining. Validated targets were further evaluated in clinical specimens from six healthy individuals (three LLP+ and three LLP-) followed for more than 9 months (long-term LLP) who initially received a single sunburn-inducing UVA + UVB exposure. The results support a UV-induced hyperpigmentation model in which basal keratinocytes have an impaired ability to remove melanin that leads to a compensatory mechanism by neighbouring keratinocytes with increased proliferative capacity to maintain skin homeostasis. The attenuated expression of SOX7 and other hemidesmosomal components (integrin α6β4 and plectin) leads to increased melanosome uptake by keratinocytes and points to a spatial regulation within the epidermis. The reduced density of hemidesmosomes provides supporting evidence for plasticity at the epidermal-dermal junction. Altered hemidesmosome plasticity, and the sustained nature of LLP, may be mediated by the role of SOX7 in basal keratinocytes. The long-term sustained subtle changes detected are modest, but sufficient to create dramatic visual differences in skin colour. These results suggest that the hyperpigmentation phenomenon leading to increased interdigitation develops in order to maintain normal skin homeostasis in individuals with LLP., (Copyright © 2014 Pathological Society of Great Britain and Ireland. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

Repetitive suberythemal UVA and/or UVB exposures were used to generate comparable UV-induced tans in human skin over the course of 2 weeks. To evaluate the potential photoprotective values of those UVA- and/or UVB- induced tans and to avoid the confounding issue of residual UV-induced DNA damage, we waited 1 week before challenging those areas with a 1.5 MED of UVA+UVB after which we measure DNA damage. The results show that the type of UV used to induce skin pigmentation affects the redistribution of melanin in the skin and/or de novo melanin synthesis. The UVA-induced tans failed to even provide a minimal SPF of 1.5, which suggests that producing a tan with UVA-rich sunlamps prior to a holiday or vacation is completely counterproductive., (Published 2014. This article is a US Government work and is in the public domain in the USA.)

Background: Lymphangioleiomyomatosis (LAM) is characterized by the proliferation in the lung, axial lymphatics (eg, lymphangioleiomyomas), and kidney (eg, angiomyolipomas) of abnormal smooth muscle-like LAM cells, which express melanoma antigens such as Pmel17/gp100 and have dysfunctional tumor suppressor tuberous sclerosis complex (TSC) genes TSC2 or TSC1. Histopathologic diagnosis of LAM in lung specimens is based on identification of the Pmel17 protein with the monoclonal antibody HMB-45., Methods: We compared the sensitivity of HMB-45 to that of antipeptide antibody αPEP13h, which reacts with a C-terminal peptide of Pmel17. LAM lung nodules were laser-capture microdissected to identify proteins by Western blotting., Results: HMB-45 recognized approximately 25% of LAM cells within the LAM lung nodules, whereas αPEP13h identified > 82% of LAM cells within these structures in approximately 90% of patients. Whereas HMB-45 reacted with epithelioid but not with spindle-shaped LAM cells, αPEP13h identified both spindle-shaped and epithelioid LAM cells, providing greater sensitivity for detection of all types of LAM cells. HMB-45 recognized Pmel17 in premelanosomal organelles; αPEP13h recognized proteins in the cytoplasm as well as in premelanosomal organelles. Both antibodies recognized a Pmel17 variant of approximately 50 kDa., Conclusions: Based on its sensitivity and specificity, αPEP13h may be useful in the diagnosis of LAM and more sensitive than HMB-45.

Background: Patients with oculocutaneous albinism (OCA) have severely decreased pigmentation of their skin, hair and eyes. OCA2 and OCA4 result from mutations of the OCA2 and SLC45A2 genes, respectively, both of which disrupt the trafficking of the critical melanogenic enzyme tyrosinase to melanosomes. Both proteins encoded by those loci (termed P and MATP, respectively) have 12 putative transmembrane regions and are thought to function as transporters, although their functions and subcellular localizations remain to be characterized., Objective: To generate specific antibodies against unique synthetic peptides encoded by P and MATP that could be used to characterize their functions and subcellular localizations., Methods: Western blotting and immunohistochemistry were used to assess the specificity of antibodies and to colocalize P and MATP proteins with various subcellular markers., Results: Specific antibodies to the P and MATP proteins were generated that work well for Western blotting and immunohistochemistry. The localizations of P and MATP with various subcellular organelles were characterized using confocal microscopy, which revealed that they colocalize to some extent with LAMP2, but do not significantly colocalize with markers of the ER, Golgi or melanosomes. Interestingly, both P and MATP colocalize significantly with BLOC-1, a sorting component involved in the intracellular trafficking of melanosomal/lysosomal constituents., Conclusion: These results provide a basis to understand how disrupted functions of P or MATP result in the misrouting of tyrosinase and cause the hypopigmentation seen in OCA2 and OCA4., (Copyright © 2014. Published by Elsevier Ireland Ltd.)

Differences in visible skin pigmentation give rise to the wide variation of skin colours seen in racial/ethnic populations. Skin pigmentation is important not only from cosmetic and psychological points of view, but more importantly because of its implications for the risk of all types of skin cancers, on photoaging, etc. Despite differences in those parameters in Caucasian and Asian skin types, they are remarkably similar in their production and distribution of melanins, and the mechanism(s) underlying their different characteristics have remained obscure. In this study, we used microarray analysis of skin suction blisters to investigate molecular differences underlying the determination of pigmentation in various skin types, and we used immunohistochemistry to validate the expression patterns of several interesting targets that were identified. Intriguingly, Caucasian and Asian skins had highly similar gene expression patterns that differed significantly from the pattern of African skin. The results of this study suggest the dynamic interactions of different types of cells in human skin that regulate its pigmentation, reveal that the known pigmentation genes have a limited contribution and uncover a new array of genes, including NINL and S100A4, that might be involved in that regulation., (© 2014 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Human melanocytes are distributed not only in the epidermis and in hair follicles but also in mucosa, cochlea (ear), iris (eye), and mesencephalon (brain) among other tissues. Melanocytes, which are derived from the neural crest, are unique in that they produce eu-/pheo-melanin pigments in unique membrane-bound organelles termed melanosomes, which can be divided into four stages depending on their degree of maturation. Pigmentation production is determined by three distinct elements: enzymes involved in melanin synthesis, proteins required for melanosome structure, and proteins required for their trafficking and distribution. Many genes are involved in regulating pigmentation at various levels, and mutations in many of them cause pigmentary disorders, which can be classified into three types: hyperpigmentation (including melasma), hypopigmentation (including oculocutaneous albinism [OCA]), and mixed hyper-/hypopigmentation (including dyschromatosis symmetrica hereditaria). We briefly review vitiligo as a representative of an acquired hypopigmentation disorder.

Through a process known as melanogenesis, melanocyte produces melanin in specialized organelles termed melanosomes, which regulates pigmentation of the skin, eyes, and hair. Gp96 is a constitutively expressed heat shock protein in the endoplasmic reticulum whose expression is further upregulated upon ultraviolet irradiation. However, the roles and mechanisms of this chaperone in pigmentation biology are unknown. In this study, we found that knockdown of gp96 by RNA interference significantly perturbed melanin synthesis and blocked late melanosome maturation. Gp96 knockdown did not impair the expression of tyrosinase, an essential enzyme in melanin synthesis, but compromised its catalytic activity and melanosome translocation. Further, mice with melanocyte-specific deletion of gp96 displayed decreased pigmentation. A mechanistic study revealed that the defect in melanogenesis can be rescued by activation of the canonical Wnt pathway, consistent with the critical roles of gp96 in chaperoning Wnt-coreceptor LRP6. Thus, this work uncovered the essential role of gp96 in regulating melanogenesis., (© 2013 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

The diversity of human skin phenotypes and the ubiquitous exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) underscore the need for a non-invasive tool to predict an individual's UVR sensitivity. We analysed correlations between UVR sensitivity, melanin content, diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DR) and UVR-induced DNA damage in the skin of subjects from three racial/ethnic groups: Asian, black or African American and White. UVR sensitivity was determined by evaluating each subject's response to one minimal erythemal dose (MED) of UVR one day after the exposure. Melanin content was measured using DR and by densitometric analysis of Fontana-Masson staining (FM) in skin biopsies taken from unexposed areas. An individual's UVR sensitivity based on MED was highly correlated with melanin content measured by DR and by FM. Therefore, a predictive model for the non-invasive determination of UVR sensitivity using DR was developed. The MED precision was further improved when we took race/ethnicity into consideration. The use of DR serves as a tool for predicting UVR sensitivity in humans that should be invaluable for determining appropriate UVR doses for therapeutic, diagnostic and/or cosmetic devices., (© 2013 John Wiley & Sons A/S.)

Diacylglycerol (DAG) increases the melanin content of human melanocytes in vitro and increases the pigmentation of guinea pig skin in vivo, but the mechanism(s) underlying those effects remain unknown. In this study, we characterized the role of diacylglycerol kinase (DGK), which phosphorylates DAG to generate phosphatidic acid, in the regulation of pigmentation. Ten isoforms of DGK have been identified, and we show that DGKζ is the most abundant isoform expressed by human melanocytic cells. Melanin content, tyrosinase activity, and tyrosinase protein levels were significantly reduced by a DGK inhibitor, but tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor messenger RNA (mRNA) levels were not changed by that inhibition, and there were no effects on the expression of other melanogenesis-related proteins. Isoform-specific small interfering RNAs showed that knockdown of DGKζ decreased melanin content and tyrosinase expression in melanocytic cells. Overexpression of DGKζ increased tyrosinase protein levels, but did not increase tyrosinase mRNA levels. Glycosidase digestion revealed that inhibition of DGK reduced only the mature form of tyrosinase, and the decrease of tyrosinase resulting from DGK inhibition could be blocked partially by protease inhibitors. These results suggest that DGK regulates melanogenesis via modulation of the posttranslational processing of tyrosinase, which may be related with the protein degradation machinery.

Background: The Food and Drug Administration has published guidelines for manufacturer-recommended exposure schedules for ultraviolet (UV) tanning, intended to limit acute and delayed damage from UV exposure. These guidelines recommend that exposure schedules be adjusted for skin phototype. However, it has been shown that the dose necessary to produce tanning is similar for phototypes 2-4., Methods: We observed tanning in phototypes 2 and 3 from repeated UV exposures over a 5-week period. Pigmentation was evaluated visually, instrumentally, and through Fontana-Masson staining of biopsies., Results: The resultant pigmentation was equal or greater in phototype 3 compared with phototype 2 - both visually and instrumentally - measured on day 31 of the exposure protocol. The amount of melanin measured in biopsies taken 24 h postexposure was also greater in phototype 3 compared with phototype 2., Conclusion: Published data on tanning in phototypes 4 and 5 support our findings that higher phototypes can develop pigmentation more efficiently than lower phototypes. Therefore, a universal exposure schedule (based on sensitivity of phototype 2) can be used for all phototypes that are expected to engage in indoor tanning. This approach will result in a reduction of the UV burden for skin phototypes 3 and above., (Published 2012. This article is a US Government work and is in the public domain in the USA.)

Interactions between melanocytes and neighboring cells in the skin (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) play important roles in regulating human skin color. We recently reported that neuregulin-1 (NRG1) is highly expressed in fibroblasts from Fitzpatrick type VI skin (the darkest) and at least in part determines the constitutive color of human skin. We have now characterized the bioactive motif of NRG1 that is involved in modulating melanin production in human melanocytes. We found that 8-mer motifs (PSRYLCKC and LCKCPNEF) increased melanin production but did not increase the proliferation of melanocytes; the minimum fragment that could elicit that effect was the tetrapeptide LCKC. This smaller bioactive peptide might have an advantage in clinical applications in which it modulates only pigmentation and does not stimulate melanocyte proliferation., (© 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S.)

This paper describes recent data on the effects of various skin formulations containing hydroxyacids (HAs) and related products on sun-exposed skin. The most frequently used classes of these products, such as α- and β-hydroxyacids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids, are reviewed, and their application in cosmetic formulations is described. Special emphasis is devoted to the safety evaluation of these formulations, particularly on the effects of their prolonged use on sun-exposed skin. We also discuss the important contribution of cosmetic vehicles in these types of studies. Data on the effects of HAs on melanogenesis and tanning are also included. Up-to-date methods and techniques used in those explorations, as well as selected future developments in the cosmetic area, are presented.

Recent technological advances in cancer genomics make it possible to dissect complicated genomic aberrations of melanomas. In particular, several specific genomic aberrations including 11q13 amplification and KIT aberrations have been identified in acral melanomas. We recently identified NUAK2 at 1q32 as a promising oncogene in acral melanomas and reported its significant roles in tumorigenesis in melanoma cells using both in vitro and in vivo analyses. NUAK2 as a member of the AMPK family has several intriguing aspects both as an oncogene and as a tumor suppressor gene. Here we review genomic aberrations of melanomas focusing on acral melanomas to emphasize the possible roles of NUAK2 in tumorigenesis in general and suggest that NUAK2 has pivotal roles in acral melanomagenesis.

The identification of genes that participate in melanomagenesis should suggest strategies for developing therapeutic modalities. We used a public array comparative genomic hybridization (CGH) database and real-time quantitative PCR (qPCR) analyses to identify the AMP kinase (AMPK)-related kinase NUAK2 as a candidate gene for melanomagenesis, and we analyzed its functions in melanoma cells. Our analyses had identified a locus at 1q32 where genomic gain is strongly associated with tumor thickness, and we used real-time qPCR analyses and regression analyses to identify NUAK2 as a candidate gene at that locus. Associations of relapse-free survival and overall survival of 92 primary melanoma patients with NUAK2 expression measured using immunohistochemistry were investigated using Kaplan-Meier curves, log rank tests, and Cox regression models. Knockdown of NUAK2 induces senescence and reduces S-phase, decreases migration, and down-regulates expression of mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR). In vivo analysis demonstrated that knockdown of NUAK2 suppresses melanoma tumor growth in mice. Survival analysis showed that the risk of relapse is greater in acral melanoma patients with high levels of NUAK2 expression than in acral melanoma patients with low levels of NUAK2 expression (hazard ratio = 3.88; 95% confidence interval = 1.44-10.50; P = 0.0075). These data demonstrate that NUAK2 expression is significantly associated with the oncogenic features of melanoma cells and with the survival of acral melanoma patients. NUAK2 may provide a drug target to suppress melanoma progression. This study further supports the importance of NUAK2 in cancer development and tumor progression, while AMPK has antioncogenic properties.

A disintegrin and metalloproteinases (ADAMs) are members of a new gene family of transmembrane and secreted proteins, which belong to the zinc proteinase superfamily. These molecules are involved in various biological events such as cell adhesion, cell fusion, cell migration, membrane protein shedding, and proteolysis. Growing evidence now attests to the potential involvement of ADAMs proteinases in diverse processes such as skin wound healing, inflammation, pigmentation, tumor development, cell proliferation, and metastasis. This paper focuses on the roles of ADAMs proteinases in a wide variety of skin diseases.

The relationship between human skin pigmentation and protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation is an important element underlying differences in skin carcinogenesis rates. The association between UV damage and the risk of skin cancer is clear, yet a strategic balance in exposure to UV needs to be met. Dark skin is protected from UV-induced DNA damage significantly more than light skin owing to the constitutively higher pigmentation, but an as yet unresolved and important question is what photoprotective benefit, if any, is afforded by facultative pigmentation (i.e. a tan induced by UV exposure). To address that and to compare the effects of various wavelengths of UV, we repetitively exposed human skin to suberythemal doses of UVA and/or UVB over 2 weeks after which a challenge dose of UVA and UVB was given. Although visual skin pigmentation (tanning) elicited by different UV exposure protocols was similar, the melanin content and UV-protective effects against DNA damage in UVB-tanned skin (but not in UVA-tanned skin) were significantly higher. UVA-induced tans seem to result from the photooxidation of existing melanin and its precursors with some redistribution of pigment granules, while UVB stimulates melanocytes to up-regulate melanin synthesis and increases pigmentation coverage, effects that are synergistically stimulated in UVA and UVB-exposed skin. Thus, UVA tanning contributes essentially no photoprotection, although all types of UV-induced tanning result in DNA and cellular damage, which can eventually lead to photocarcinogenesis., (2010 John Wiley & Sons A/S. This article is a US Government work and is in the public domain in the USA.)

Melanogenesis is the unique process of producing pigmented biopolymers that are sequestered within melanosomes, which provides color to the skin, hair and eyes of animals and, in the case of human skin, also protects the underlying tissues from UV damage. We review the current understanding of melanogenesis, focusing on factors important to the biochemistry of pigment synthesis, the biogenesis of melanosomes, signaling pathways and factors that regulate melanogenesis, intramelanosomal pH, transport and transfer of melanosomes, and pigmentary disorders related to the dysfunction of melanosome-related proteins. Although it has been known for some time that many of the factors that affect melanogenesis are derived from keratinocytes, fibroblasts, endothelial cells, hormones, inflammatory cells and nerves, a number of new factors that are involved in that regulation have recently been reported, such as factors that regulate melanosome pH and ion transport.

Hydroxy acids (HAs) represent a class of compounds which have been widely used in a number of cosmetic and therapeutic formulations in order to achieve a variety of beneficial effects for the skin. We review and discuss the most frequently used classes of these compounds, such as α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids, and describe their applications as cosmetic and therapeutic agents. Special emphasis is devoted to the safety evaluation of these formulations, in particular on the effects of their prolonged use on sun-exposed skin. Furthermore, we summarize the very limited number of studies dealing with the modifications evoked by topical application of products containing HAs on photocarcinogenesis. In spite of the large number of reports on the cosmetic and clinical effects of HAs, their biological mechanism(s) of action still require more clarification. Some of these mechanisms are discussed in this article along with important findings on the effect of HAs on melanogenesis and on tanning. We also emphasize the important contribution of cosmetic vehicles in these types of studies. Thus, HAs play an important role in cosmetic formulations, as well as in many dermatologic applications, such as in treating photoaging, acne, ichthyosis, rosacea, pigmentation disorders, and psoriasis.

Interactions between melanocytes and neighboring cells in the skin are important in regulating skin color in humans. We recently demonstrated that the less pigmented and thicker skin on the palms and soles is regulated by underlying fibroblasts in those areas, specifically via a secreted factor (DKK1) that modulates Wnt signaling. In this study, we tested the hypothesis that dermal fibroblasts regulate the constitutive skin color of individuals ranging from very light to very dark. We used microarray analysis to compare gene expression patterns in fibroblasts derived from lighter skin types compared to darker skin types, with a focus on secreted proteins. We identified a number of genes that differ dramatically in expression and, among the expressed proteins, neuregulin-1, which is secreted by fibroblasts derived from dark skin, effectively increases the pigmentation of melanocytes in tissue culture and in an artificial skin model and regulates their growth, suggesting that it is one of the major factors determining human skin color.

UV radiation is a major environmental factor that affects pigmentation in human skin and can eventually result in various types of UV-induced skin cancers. The effects of various wavelengths of UV on melanocytes and other types of skin cells in culture have been studied, but little is known about gene expression patterns in situ following in situ exposure of human skin to different types of UV (UVA and/or UVB). Paracrine factors expressed by keratinocytes and/or fibroblasts that affect skin pigmentation might be regulated differently by UV, as might their corresponding receptors expressed on melanocytes. To test the hypothesis that different mechanisms are involved in the pigmentary responses of the skin to different types of UV, we used immunohistochemical and whole human genome microarray analyses to characterize human skin in situ to examine how melanocyte-specific proteins and paracrine melanogenic factors are regulated by repetitive exposure to different types of UV compared with unexposed skin as a control. The results show that gene expression patterns induced by UVA or UVB are distinct-UVB eliciting dramatic increases in a large number of genes involved in pigmentation as well as in other cellular functions, whereas UVA had little or no effect on these. The expression patterns characterize the distinct responses of the skin to UVA or UVB, and identify several potential previously unidentified factors involved in UV-induced responses of human skin.

Melanosomes are organelles specialized for the production of melanin pigment and are specifically produced by melanocytic cells. More than 150 pigmentation-related genes have been identified, including glycoprotein nonmetastatic melanoma protein b (GPNMB). A recent proteomics analysis revealed that GPNMB is localized in melanosomes, and GPNMB is a membrane-bound glycoprotein that shows high homology with a well-known melanosomal structural protein, Pmel17/gp100. In this study, we show that GPNMB is expressed in melanocytes of normal human skin, as well as in human melanoma cells. GPNMB is heavily glycosylated and is enriched in mature (stage III and IV) melanosomes in contrast to MART-1 and Pmel17, which are abundant in early (stage I and II) melanosomes. MART-1 and Pmel17 play critical roles in the maturation of early melanosomes; thus, we speculate that GPNMB might be important in the functions of late melanosomes, possibly their transport and/or transfer to keratinocytes. We also demonstrate that a secreted form of GPNMB is released by ectodomain shedding from the largely Golgi-modified form of GPNMB and that the PKC and Ca(2+) intracellular signaling pathways regulate that shedding. We conclude that GPNMB is a melanosomal protein that is released by proteolytic ectodomain shedding and might be a useful and specific histological marker of melanocytic cells.

Most hypopigmenting reagents target the inhibition of tyrosinase, the key enzyme involved in melanin synthesis. In this issue, Choi et al. report that NADPH:quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO1) increases melanin synthesis, probably via the suppression of tyrosinase degradation. Because NQO1 was identified by comparing normally pigmented melanocytes with hypopigmented acral lentiginous melanoma cells, these results suggest various hypotheses regarding the carcinogenic origin of the latter.

Ectodomain shedding is a proteolytic mechanism by which a transmembrane protein is converted into a secreted form. Pmel17/gp100 is a melanocyte-specific membrane-bound glycoprotein that has amyloid characteristics and forms fibrillar structures in melanosomes after a complex sequence of post-translational processing and trafficking events, including cleavage by a furin-like proprotein convertase (PC). A secreted form of Pmel17 (termed sPmel17) was also thought to be released due to cleavage by a PC. We used multidisciplinary approaches to demonstrate that sPmel17 is released by ectodomain shedding at the juxtamembrane and/or intramembrane motif and to show that this is independent of cleavage by a PC. We further show that sPmel17 consists of 2 fragments linked by disulfide bonds and that the shedding is inhibited at low temperature but not by metalloproteinase inhibitors. Moreover, treatment with a phorbol ester or a calmodulin inhibitor induces Pmel17 shedding. We also refine the reactivity of HMB50 and NKI/beteb, 2 monoclonal antibodies commonly used as melanoma-specific markers. The fact that those antibodies require physically separated domains of Pmel17 sheds interesting light on its 3-dimensional conformation. We conclude that sPmel17 is released by regulated proteolytic ectodomain shedding.-Hoashi, T., Tamaki, K., Hearing, V. J. The secreted form of a melanocyte membrane-bound glycoprotein (Pmel17/gp100) is released by ectodomain shedding.

Melanomas are the most prevalent cancers in 25-29 yr old females and compose roughly 12% of cancers in 20-40 yr old women; under the age of 40, women have a higher incidence of melanomas than do men. Within the past few decades, the alarming trend to use commercial sunlamps for cosmetic pigmentation is of particular concern, especially since 71% of those patrons are women with 50% of patrons under the age of 29. A major problem may be the use of UVA-rich sunlamps which produce a visible tan but afford little to no protection from subsequent UV exposure. We hypothesize that the additional exposure of adolescents to unnaturally large amounts of UVA from artificial UV sources is implicated in the increasing incidence of malignant melanomas disproportionately in young women.

Because melanomas are intrinsically resistant to conventional radiotherapy and chemotherapy, many alternative treatment approaches have been developed such as biochemotherapy and immunotherapy. The most common cause of multidrug resistance (MDR) in human cancers is the expression and function of one or more ATP-binding cassette (ABC) transporters that efflux anticancer drugs from cells. Melanoma cells express a group of ABC transporters (such as ABCA9, ABCB1, ABCB5, ABCB8, ABCC1, ABCC2, and ABCD1) that may be associated with the resistance of melanoma cells to a broad range of anticancer drugs and/or of melanocytes to toxic melanin intermediates and metabolites. In this review, we propose a model (termed the ABC-M model) in which the intrinsic MDR of melanoma cells is at least in part because of the transporter systems that may also play a critical role in reducing the cytotoxicity of the melanogenic pathway in melanocytes. The ABC-M model suggests molecular strategies to reverse MDR function in the context of the melanogenic pathway, which could open therapeutic avenues towards the ultimate goal of circumventing clinical MDR in patients with melanoma.

Pigmentation of the skin, hair and eyes is regulated by tyrosinase, the critical rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis by melanocytes. Tyrosinase is degraded endogenously, at least in part, by the ubiquitin proteasome system (UPS). Several types of inherited hypopigmentary diseases, such as oculocutaneous albinism and Hermansky-Pudlak syndrome, involve the aberrant processing and/or trafficking of tyrosinase and its subsequent degradation which can occur due to the quality-control machinery. Studies on carbohydrate modifications have revealed that tyrosinase in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) is proteolyzed via ER-associated protein degradation and that tyrosinase degradation can also occur following its complete maturation in the Golgi. Among intrinsic factors that regulate the UPS, fatty acids have been shown to modulate tyrosinase degradation in contrasting manners through increased or decreased amounts of ubiquitinated tyrosinase that leads to its accelerated or decelerated degradation by proteasomes.

Background: Malignant melanomas are intrinsically resistant to many conventional treatments, such as radiation and chemotherapy, for reasons that are poorly understood. Here we propose and test a model that explains drug resistance or sensitivity in terms of melanosome dynamics., Methods: The growth and sensitivity to cisplatin of MNT-1 cells, which are melanotic and enriched with mature stage III and IV melanosomes, and SK-MEL-28 cells, which have only immature stage I and II melanosomes, were compared using clonogenic assays. Differences in pigmentation, melanosome stages, melanosome number, and cellular structures in different cell lines in response to various treatments were examined by electron microscopy. The relative numbers of melanosomes of different stages were compared after treatment with 1-phenyl-2-thiourea. The relationship between drug transporter function and endogenous melanogenic toxicity was assessed by treating cells with the cyclosporin analog PSC-833 and by assessing vacuole formation and cell growth inhibition. All statistical tests were two-sided., Results: Endogenous melanogenic cytotoxicity, produced by damaged melanosomes, resulted in pronounced cell growth inhibition in MNT-1 cells compared with amelanotic SK-MEL-28 cells. The sensitivity to CDDP of MNT-1 cells was 3.8-fold higher than that of SK-MEL-28 cells (mean IC(50) for SK-MEL-28 and MNT-1 = 2.13 microM and 0.56 microM, respectively; difference = 1.57 microM, 95% confidence interval = 1.45 to 1.69; P = .0017). After treatment with 6.7 microM CDDP for 72 hours, the number of stage II-III melanosomes in surviving MNT-1 cells was 6.8-fold that of untreated cells. Modulation of MNT-1 cells to earlier-stage (II, II-III, III) melanosomes by treatment with the tyrosinase inhibitor 1-phenyl-2-thiourea dramatically increased CDDP resistance. Furthermore, PSC-833 principally suppressed MNT-1 melanotic cell growth via an elevation of autophagosome-like vacuolar structures, possibly by inhibiting melanosome membrane transporters., Conclusions: Melanosome dynamics (including their biogenesis, density, status, and structural integrity) regulate the drug resistance of melanoma cells. Manipulation of melanosome functions may be an effective way to enhance the therapeutic activity of anticancer drugs against melanoma.

Everyone knows and seems to agree that melanocytes are there to generate melanin - an intriguing, but underestimated multipurpose molecule that is capable of doing far more than providing pigment and UV protection to skin (1). What about the cell that generates melanin, then? Is this dendritic, neural crest-derived cell still serving useful (or even important) functions when no-one looks at the pigmentation of our skin and its appendages and when there is essentially no UV exposure? In other words, what do epidermal and hair follicle melanocytes do in their spare time - at night, under your bedcover? How much of the full portfolio of physiological melanocyte functions in mammalian skin has really been elucidated already? Does the presence or absence of melanocytes matter for normal epidermal and/or hair follicle functions (beyond pigmentation and UV protection), and for skin immune responses? Do melanocytes even deserve as much credit for UV protection as conventional wisdom attributes to them? In which interactions do these promiscuous cells engage with their immediate epithelial environment and who is controlling whom? What lessons might be distilled from looking at lower vertebrate melanophores and at extracutaneous melanocytes in the endeavour to reveal the 'secret identity' of melanocytes? The current Controversies feature explores these far too infrequently posed, biologically and clinically important questions. Complementing a companion viewpoint essay on malignant melanocytes (2), this critical re-examination of melanocyte biology provides a cornucopia of old, but under-appreciated concepts and novel ideas on the slowly emerging complexity of physiological melanocyte functions, and delineates important, thought-provoking questions that remain to be definitively answered by future research.

The melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R), a Gs protein-coupled receptor (GPCR) expressed in melanocytes, is a major determinant of skin pigmentation and phototype. MC1R activation stimulates melanogenesis and increases the ratio of black, strongly photoprotective eumelanins to reddish, poorly photoprotective pheomelanins. Several MC1R alleles are associated with red hair, fair skin, increased sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation (the RHC phenotype) and increased skin cancer risk. Three highly penetrant RHC variants, R151C, R160W, and D294H are loss-of-function MC1R mutants with altered cell surface expression. In this study, we show that forward trafficking was normal for D294H. Conversely, export traffic was impaired for R151C, which accumulated in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER), and for R160W, which was enriched in the cis-Golgi. This is the first report of steady-state retention in a post-ER secretory compartment of a GPCR mutant found in the human population. Residues R151 and R160 are located in the MC1R second intracellular loop (il2). Two other mutations in il2, T157A preventing T157 phosphorylation and R162P disrupting a (160)RARR(163) motif, also caused intracellular retention. Moreover, T157 was phosphorylated in wild-type MC1R and a T157D mutation mimicking constitutive phosphorylation allowed normal traffic, and rescued the retention phenotype of R160W and R162P. Therefore, MC1R export is likely regulated by T157 phosphorylation and the (160)RARR(163) arginine-based motif functions as an ER retrieval signal. These elements are conserved in mammalian MC1Rs and in all five types of human melanocortin receptors. Thus, members of this GPCR subfamily might share common mechanisms for regulation of plasma membrane expression.

The incidence of skin cancer, including cutaneous melanoma, has risen substantially in recent years, and epidemiological and laboratory studies show that UV radiation is a major causative factor of this increase. UV damage also underlies photoaging of the skin, and these deleterious effects of UV can be, in part, prevented in skin with higher levels of constitutive pigmentation. We review the clinical studies we have made in recent years regarding the rapid and the long-term responses of the pigmentary system in human skin to UV exposure.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 32-35; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.10.

Dickkopf 1 (DKK1), an inhibitor of Wnt signaling, not only functions as a head inducer during development, but also regulates joint remodeling and bone formation, which suggests roles for DKK1 in the pathogenesis of rheumatoid arthritis and multiple myeloma. We recently demonstrated that levels of DKK1 in palmoplantar dermal fibroblasts are physiologically higher than those observed in non-palmoplantar dermal fibroblasts. Thus, the DKK1-rich mesenchyme in palmoplantar dermis affects the overlying epithelium and induces a palmoplantar phenotype in the epidermis. More specifically, DKK1 suppresses melanocyte function and growth through the regulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and beta-catenin. Furthermore, DKK1 induces the expression of keratin 9 and alpha-Kelch-like ECT2-interacting protein (alphaKLEIP) but downregulates the expression of beta-catenin, glycogen synthase kinase 3beta, protein kinase C, and proteinase-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) in keratinocytes. Treatment of reconstructed skin with DKK1 reproduces the hypopigmentation and thickening of skin through Wnt/beta-catenin signaling. These studies elucidate why human palmoplantar skin is thicker and paler than non-palmoplantar skin through the secretion of DKK1 by fibroblasts that affect the overlying epidermis. Thus, DKK1 may be useful for reducing skin pigmentation and for thickening photo-aged skin and palmoplantar wounds caused by diabetes mellitus and rheumatic skin diseases.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 73-75; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.4.

Background: alpha-Hydroxy acids (alphaHAs) are reported to reduce signs of aging in the skin and are widely used cosmetic ingredients. Several studies suggest that alphaHA can increase the sensitivity of skin to ultraviolet radiation. More recently, beta-hydroxy acids (betaHAs), or combinations of alphaHA and betaHA have also been incorporated into antiaging skin care products. Concerns have also arisen about increased sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation following use of skin care products containing beta-HA., Objective: To determine whether topical treatment with glycolic acid, a representative alphaHA, or with salicylic acid, a betaHA, modifies the short-term effects of solar simulated radiation (SSR) in human skin., Methods: Fourteen subjects participated in this study. Three of the four test sites on the mid-back of each subject were treated daily Monday-Friday, for a total of 3.5 weeks, with glycolic acid (10%), salicylic acid (2%), or vehicle (control). The fourth site received no treatment. After the last treatment, each site was exposed to SSR, and shave biopsies from all four sites were obtained. The endpoints evaluated in this study were erythema (assessed visually and instrumentally), DNA damage and sunburn cell formation., Results: Treatment with glycolic acid resulted in increased sensitivity of human skin to SSR, measured as an increase in erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation. Salicylic acid did not produce significant changes in any of these biomarkers., Conclusions: Short-term topical application of glycolic acid in a cosmetic formulation increased the sensitivity of human skin to SSR, while a comparable treatment with salicylic acid did not.

The increased popularity of commercially available three-dimensional human skin equivalents in recent years has allowed for assessment of melanogenesis modulated by compounds topically applied to the skin or directly incorporated from the medium. These skin equivalents provide a suitable model for elucidating the mechanisms of action of various factors that modulate skin pigmentation or other properties of the skin. As such, researchers need to objectively quantify cutaneous responses at the macroscopic level. A simple method to standardize macrophotography images is reported that can quantify cutaneous responses in human skin equivalents of Asian, Black or African American, and Caucasian or White racial/ethnic origin. Macrophotographs are analyzed using the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage L*a*b* color space system in combination with a personal computer and image editing software. Pigmentation changes monitored over a 9 day period showed a high correlation with melanin content evaluated in Fontana-Masson-stained sections. These results indicate the feasibility of using a macrophotography setup in a sterile tissue culture environment to objectively assess in vitro cutaneous responses in human skin equivalents. This serves as an adjunct tool to biochemical and morphological methods to effectively quantify changes in pigmentation over time.

Treatments for primary and metastatic melanomas are rarely effective. Even therapeutics such as retinoic acid (RA) that are successfully used to treat several other forms of cancer are ineffective. Recent evidence indicates that the antiproliferative effects of RA are mediated by the transcription factor SOX9 in human cancer cell lines. As we have previously shown that SOX9 is expressed in normal melanocytes, here we investigated SOX9 expression and function in human melanomas. Although SOX9 was expressed in normal human skin, it was increasingly downregulated as melanocytes progressed to the premalignant and then the malignant and metastatic states. Overexpression of SOX9 in both human and mouse melanoma cell lines induced cell cycle arrest by increasing p21 transcription and restored sensitivity to RA by downregulating expression of PRAME, a melanoma antigen. Furthermore, SOX9 overexpression in melanoma cell lines inhibited tumorigenicity both in mice and in a human ex vivo model of melanoma. Treatment of melanoma cell lines with PGD2 increased SOX9 expression and restored sensitivity to RA. Thus, combined treatment with PGD2 and RA substantially decreased tumor growth in human ex vivo and mouse in vivo models of melanoma. The results of our experiments targeting SOX9 provide insight into the pathophysiology of melanoma. Further, the effects of SOX9 on melanoma cell proliferation and RA sensitivity suggest the encouraging possibility of a noncytotoxic approach to the treatment of melanoma.