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The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3-week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturizing formulation.A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water-based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3-week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin.Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant.Using a variety of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in significant improvements to skin hydration and barrier function, the levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. As a result there was a significant reduction in the characteristics associated with the development of dry skin after use of the test product.OBJECTIF: le développement de la sécheresse cutanée est un processus complexe, une grande variété de facteurs jouant chacun des rôles différents dans son évolution. De ce fait, il est important d’aborder ces différents aspects du comportement de la peau lors de la conception d’une formulation pour lutter contre la sécheresse cutanée. Les résultats d’une étude de 3 semaines sur l’hydratation des jambes sèches sont présentés ci-dessous. Un large éventail de méthodes de mesure biophysiques traditionnelles et plus récemment développées ont été combinées à une évaluation visuelle de l’état de la peau pour permettre de déterminer de multiples aspects de la fonction cutanée. Les changements observés sur la peau sont abordés en termes des ingrédients utilisés dans la formulation hydratante. MÉTHODES: une série de méthodes et de techniques nouvelles et traditionnelles d’évaluation de la peau ont été utilisées pour évaluer les effets d’un produit hydratant à base d’émulsion huile dans eau par comparaison à un site non traité au cours d’une étude in vivo de 3 semaines sur la peau sèche de la partie inférieure des jambes. RÉSULTATS: des améliorations statistiquement significatives ont été observées au niveau d’une gamme de paramètres cutanés suite à l’utilisation du produit. L’hydratation cutanée évaluée à l’aide de Corneometer®, Epsilon® et de la cotation visuelle de la sécheresse cutanée s’est améliorée selon toutes ces méthodes après 3 semaines d’utilisation. La fonction de barrière cutanée mesurée d’après la perte d’eau transépidermique s’est également améliorée. Les taux de cholestérol, d’acides gras libres et de céramides NH ont augmenté, ainsi que la longueur moyenne des bicouches des lamelles lipidiques de la couche cornée (CC), et il en a été de même pour le rapport lipide/protéine (mesuré à l’aide du Lipbarvis® et de la spectroscopie confocale de Raman in vivo). Des augmentations des taux de céramides EOS et NP ont également été observées, ainsi qu’une amélioration de la maturité des cornéocytes, bien qu’elles n’aient pas été statistiquement significatives. CONCLUSION: à l’aide d’une gamme de techniques d’évaluation de la peau traditionnelles et nouvelles, un large éventail de facteurs associés à l’évolution de la sécheresse cutanée a été évalué lors du traitement avec un nouveau produit hydratant topique. L’utilisation du produit a entraîné une amélioration significative de l’hydratation et de la fonction de barrière de la peau, des taux et de la morphologie des lipides de la barrière SC , et de la différenciation épidermique globale. Cela a entraîné une amélioration significative des facteurs associés au développement de la sécheresse cutanée.

Summary Background Topical moisturizing products are widely used to alleviate the problems associated with xerotic skin. Their use affects many properties of the stratum corneum (SC) in a complex and interrelated manner. The range of measurement techniques available to the researcher has increased in recent years. However, few studies have looked for correlations between the different techniques for assessing how aspects of xerotic skin change over time as a result of topical moisturizer usage. Objectives A 3‐week in vivo study using an oil‐in‐water based moisturizing product and an untreated site was conducted to determine the clinical significance of and any correlations between a range of different approaches for the measurement of skin lipid content and also skin hydration and visual grading of dry skin. Methods A range of traditional and more recently developed skin measurement techniques have been used to examine a variety of SC properties in normal and xerotic skin during topical moisturizer usage. Results In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and analysis of SC lipids from tape strips both showed an increase in SC lipid level and organization after 3 weeks of moisturizer usage on xerotic skin. Hydration, measured both optically and electrically, also increased and skin barrier function improved, with strong correlations between the different measures of dryness being observed. Conclusions Strong correlations were observed between the skin measurements for lipid assessment and skin hydration with regard to the assessment of xerotic skin, providing valuable new information for future in vivo clinical research into dry and atopic skin. Keywords biophysical assessment, skin barrier, skin hydration, topical moisturizers, Xerosis

A study was conducted with a new topical panthenol-containing emollient (NTP-CE) to investigate the efficacy and safety of a 3-month maintenance treatment in infants and children with stabilized mild atopic dermatitis (AD).After the stabilization phase (up to 2 months) using a corticosteroid-free topical medical device, 108 subjects (aged 2-49 months) with a SCORing AD (SCORAD) on the target area of5, were randomized to receive NTP-CE (N = 52) or reference emollient (N = 56) twice-daily for ∼3 months. SCORAD scores, occurrence of flares, and tolerability were assessed at regular intervals.In both groups, local SCORAD decreased during the study with a mean change from baseline (=end of stabilization phase) of -1.2 ± 1.3 (NTP-CE) and -1.0 ± 1.9. Kaplan-Meier analysis provided success rates (i.e. proportion of subjects without flares at study end) of 96 and 77% for the NTP-CE and reference group, respectively (p =.083, log-rank test). Mean time to flare-up was 47 days (range: 29-65) in the NTP CE group and 50 days (6-100). Study products were well tolerated.Our results indicate that NTP-CE is efficacious and safe when used for maintenance treatment of mild childhood AD.

Purpose: Two studies were conducted with a new topical panthenol-containing emollient (NTP-CE) to investigate the skin-moisturizing effect in healthy adults and tolerability in healthy infants.Methods: In Study 1 (N = 44), a single skin application of NTP-CE was performed followed by a 4-week twice-daily application. Skin hydration and stratum corneum (SC) water content change (using Raman spectroscopy) were measured. In the 4-week Study 2 (N = 65, aged 3–25 months), NTP-CE tolerability was assessed using a 5-point scoring system; skin hydration was determined in a subset (N = 21).Results: In Study 1, mean AUC0 − 24 h for skin capacitance change from baseline was 302.03 i.u. with NTP-CE and −15.90 i.u. in control areas (p

Two randomized, intra-individual comparison studies were performed in healthy subjects to evaluate the skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential of a new topical panthenol-containing emollient (NTP-CE) (Study 1), and its effect on skin microflora (Study 2).In Study 1 (N = 23), two skin areas, one challenged with 0.5% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) solution and one unchallenged, were treated with NTP-CE for 3 weeks. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and intercellular lipid lamellae (ICLL) organization were measured at regular intervals during the study. In Study 2 (N = 20), quantitative bacterial cultures were obtained over 6 h from a skin area undergoing wash stress with 10% SDS with subsequent single application of NTP-CE.In Study 1, mean AUC for TEWL reduction from baseline was more pronounced with NTP-CE compared with control (-168.36 vs. -123.38 g/mNTP-CE use has favorable and lasting effects on barrier function and repair as well as skin hydration without negatively influencing bacterial viability.

Coupling of C9-14 (4) and C15-21 (5a) fragments to produce the cis-trisubstituted olefin was achieved using Suzuki-type coupling conditions employed by Marshall (5a/tert-BuLi/B-OMe-9-BBN added to 4/Cs2CO3/Pd(dppf)2). The terminal (Z)-diene moiety was attached to aldehyde 10 by using a sequential Nozaki−Hiyama allylation and Peterson olefination sequence; careful monitoring of the disappearance of both diastereomeric β-hydroxysilanes was found to be essential for achieving a high yield. In the oxidation of alcohols 12 and 16 to 13 and 7, respectively, using iodobenzene diacetate and TEMPO, addition of a trace of water was found to be crucial for complete conversion. The C8-9 (Z)-olefin functionality was introduced on to aldehyde 13 using a Still−Gennari HWE reaction. Subsequent carbamate installation at C-19 followed by a reduction/oxidation sequence gave the title fragment C7-24 (7) ready to be coupled with the C1-6 fragment, which is described in Part 2 of this series.