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Background: Hair loss is a widespread health problem that affects numerous individuals and is associated with age, lack of sleep, stress, endocrine problems, and other problems. Caffeine exerts various pharmacological effects, particularly after ingestion. The caffeine-induced inhibition of phosphodiesterases can increase intracellular cAMP concentrations, ultimately resulting in stimulatory effects on cell metabolism and proliferation. Hence, caffeine has been confirmed to inhibit hair loss caused by premature termination of the hair growth phase. Adenosine also improves hair loss by stimulating hair growth and thickening hair shafts. However, further empirical evidence is required to comprehensively assess the efficacy of hair loss treatment and prevention using a formulation of caffeine and adenosine in specific proportions in shampoos., Objectives: This study aimed to evaluate a shampoo with caffeine and adenosine as a daily scalp care product for hair loss in 77 subjects aged 18-60 years., Methods: The overall and local hair densities were assessed using professional cameras and dermoscopes at different magnifications and distances. Five hairs that came off the participant's head were randomly selected to measure hair diameter. The self-assessment questionnaires were filled on third month of product use., Results: The combination of caffeine and adenosine in the shampoo significantly enhanced hair density compared to that of the baseline. The results revealed a significant reduction in hair loss. The hair diameters of the subjects did not change significantly. Most of the participants (71.05%) were satisfied with their hair after using the product., Conclusions: Shampoos containing caffeine and adenosine have been demonstrated to exert therapeutic benefits for reducing hair loss., (© 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Butterfly pea flower ( Clitoria ternatea ) may serve as an alternative anti-dandruff treatment; however, its effects on Malassezia spp. remain unexplored. The aim of this study was to explore the effects of C. ternatea as an herbal-based anti-dandruff treatment on Malassezia spp. DNA expression, plakoglobin levels, IL-8 levels, sebum levels, dandruff severity scores, adverse effects, and patient satisfaction. An experimental study with a pretest-posttest control design was conducted at the Outpatient Clinic of Dermatology and Venereology, Arifin Achmad Hospital, Pekanbaru, Indonesia, from November 2023 to January 2024. The flower of C. ternatea was used to formulate the shampoo. The study involved 70 female patients aged 18-25 with dandruff, who were divided into two groups: (a) experimental group using 20% C. ternatea shampoo and (b) control group using 2% ketoconazole shampoo. The present study found that 2% ketoconazole shampoo significantly reduced Malassezia spp. DNA expression compared to 20% C. ternatea shampooo ( Clitoria ternatea : ΔCq=1.76±3.18; ketoconazole: ΔCq=3.77±2.90; p =0.008). No significant difference was observed in plakoglobin levels ( C. ternatea : ΔCq=1.98±3.63; ketoconazole: ΔCq=2.50±2.36; p =0.427) or IL-8 levels ( C. ternatea : ΔCq=3.46±4.00; ketoconazole: ΔCq=4.16 ± 3.62; p =0.459). C. ternatea significantly reduced sebum levels more than ketoconazole ( C. ternatea : 1.16±0.98%; ketoconazole: 0.22±0.38%; p <0.001). Dandruff scores and patient satisfaction were similar for both shampoos ( p =0.115 and p =0.336, respectively). Adverse effects were more common in the 2% ketoconazole shampoo group, affecting 21.2% of the patients. In conclusion, 2% ketoconazole shampoo is more effective in reducing Malassezia spp. DNA expression, while 20% C. ternatea shampoo offers better sebum control. Both shampoos are similarly effective in ameliorating dandruff severity and are well-tolerated, with fewer adverse effects reported for C. ternatea ., Competing Interests: All the authors declare that there are no conflicts of interest., (© 2024 The Author(s).)

Objectives: Malassezia species are common, clinically relevant, and lipid-dependent yeasts of humans. They are also the leading causes of the dandruff problem of humans, and the azoles are used primarily in their topical and systemic treatment. Resistance to azoles is an emerging problem among Malassezia sp., which indicates the need of new drug assessments that will be effective against dandruff and limit the use of azoles and other agents in treatment. Among them, the efficacy of various combinations of piroctone olamine and climbazole against Malassezia sp. is highly important. Here, we assessed the efficacies of various piroctone olamine and climbazole formulations against Malassezia sp. in comparison with ketoconazole., Methods: A total of nine formulations were included in the study, where each formulation was prepared from different concentrations of piroctone olamine and climbazole and both. All formulations contained the same ingredients as water, surfactants, hair conditioning agents, and preservatives. Malassezia furfur CBS1878, Malassezia globosa CBS7874, and Malassezia sympodialis CBS9570 were tested for antifungal susceptibility of each formulation by agar diffusion method. Sizes of the inhibition zones were compared with standard medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole, and the data were analyzed by Dunnett's multiple-comparison test., Results: For all Malassezia sp. strains, climbazole 0.5% and piroctone olamine/climbazole (0.1%/0.1% and 0.1%/0.5%) combinations were found to have the same effect as the medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole. Piroctone olamine/climbazole 1.0%/0.1% formulation showed the same efficacy as 2% ketoconazole on M. furfur and M. sympodialis, while 0.1%/0.5% formulation to only M. furfur. For M. globosa, none of the formulations tested were as effective as ketoconazole., Conclusion: The species distribution of Malassezia sp. varies depending on the anatomical location on the host. According to the results of this study, climbazole and piroctone olamine combinations seem to be promising options against the dandruff problem with their high antifungal/anti dandruff efficacy., (© 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Objective: With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated., Methods: The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester., Results: The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair., Conclusion: The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits., (© 2023 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Background: Dandruff caused by Malassezia furfur is a prevailing fungal infection. Although ketoconazole (KTZ) is widely intended for anti-dandruff treatment, poor solubility, and epidermal permeability limits its use and the marketed KTZ shampoo adversely effects scalp and hair., Objective: To prepare a novel shampoo loaded with KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles using green tea extract and evaluate its antifungal activity., Methods: The KTZ-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles was prepared by green synthesis and was characterized by UV, FTIR, XRD, and the drug entrapment efficiency was investigated. The antifungal activity of the nanoparticles with respect to standard drug, KTZ was tested against Malassezia furfur. Further, a novel antidandruff shampoo was developed by incorporating the prepared nanoparticles into the shampoo base., Results: The formation of KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles was confirmed by UV and FTIR analysis. XRD analysis confirmed the amorphous phase of KTZ in nanoparticles. The drug entrapment efficiency was found to be 91.84%. The prepared nanoparticles showed enhanced activity against Malassezia furfur compared to drug of choice, KTZ (1%). The evaluation of shampoo showed an ideal result., Conclusion: KTZ-coated ZnO nanoparticles loaded novel shampoo in comparison to marketed anti-dandruff shampoo could be an effective alternate for the treatment of dandruff., (© 2023 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Background: Solar radiation is responsible for changes in the structure of human hair, the damages include proteins (65%-95%), lipids, and melanin. The aim was to examine the effectiveness of sunscreen in hair cosmetics and whether hair color affects it., Materials and Methods: The study included nine women, divided according to hair color to three groups: light, dark, and gray hair. The 410-Solar reflectometer was used in five time points. The hair was divided into three strands, one product applied to each., Results: Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, the reflectance before products application was significantly higher than the hair reflectance immediately after application. The effect of sunscreens on light hair reflectance was found at wavelengths 400 and 720 nm and between 1000 and 2500 nm, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than the reflectance after. The use of products on gray hair did not have a significant effect on hair reflectance at wavelengths 400-1100 nm, the effect of sunscreens on the gray hair reflectance was observed in the UV and infrared range, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than immediately after., Conclusions: The results showed that the 410-Solar reflectometer is useful to assess the effectiveness of hair sunscreens. All three tested hair products do not show the expected protection properties. Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, suggesting that dark hair should be more protected against radiation than light and gray hair., (© 2023 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Objective: This study explores the applicability and scientific accuracy of instrument measurements in repairing hair products on slightly damaged hair bundles., Materials and Method: Sixty hair bundles mildly damaged with hydrogen peroxide and ammonia standards were divided into two groups: the treatment and control groups (30 hair bundles each). The treatment group used commercial hair care essential oil, whereas the control group used tap water to treat the damage. The two groups were measured using an instrument before and after the product application. The objective indicators included the gloss of hair, along with hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient, and against hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient. At the same time, two evaluators conducted sensory evaluations on the gloss and frizz levels of the hair bundles. Therefore, data comparison and verification were carried out together with instrumental measurement data., Results: We verified that the instrumental measurement methods could obtain data trends that are consistent with sensory assessment methods; hence, they have the advantages of accuracy, convenience, and quantifiability., Conclusion: Thus, the instrumental measurement methods we verified can provide objective evidence for the efficacy of hair care products in repairing hair., (© 2023 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: The process of hair dyeing causes hair damage, and periodic re-dyeing is required for newly grown hair. To avoid these hassles, hair color shampoos have been developed and are widely used. In this study, we compared the effects of two hair color shampoos with different dyeing principles to analyze the function of hair color shampoos. We analyzed hair tresses treated by hair-oxidation- and hair-coating-based shampoos., Materials and Methods: We measured the color, tensile properties, softness, elasticity, gloss, moisture content, and protein content of the hair tresses dyed with color shampoos. The hair structures were analyzed by scanning and transmission electron microscopies (SEM and TEM) and a hydroxy radical-based method., Results: The shampoo based on hair coating enhanced the hair dyeing effect and roughness, whereas that based on hair oxidation improved the color retention and moisture content in the hair tresses. Frictional resistance, gloss, and elasticity of the hair tresses were similar for the two products. However, according to the results of the protein loss test, TEM, and hydroxyl radical staining, the shampoo based on hair oxidation showed a longer dyeing retention compared to that based on hair coating but caused cuticle damage., Conclusion: These results show that the two shampoos with different dyeing principles exhibit different hair dyeing abilities and hair health indices. Therefore, we recommend that hair color shampoos should be used according to the requirements of an individual., (© 2023 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: The mechanical properties of hair treated with styling ingredients is an important aspect to determine if products will be efficacious when used by the consumer. Measurement techniques have been proposed in earlier work; however, these are mostly aimed at hairspray systems and not the myriad of styling products available to the modern-day consumer., Aim: In this article, experimental and data analysis guidelines are proposed for the evaluation of styling ingredients using a three-point cantilever bending technique. Most of the experiments were carried out on polysaccharide-based ingredients-guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Guar HPTC) and cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Cassia HPTC)-to establish basic characterization concepts of the polymer-fiber assemblies., Methods: A three-point cantilever bending technique was developed using a texture analyzer housed in a temperature and humidity-controlled chamber. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) studies were conducted to monitor the fracture mechanics of polymer-fiber assemblies., Results: Fundamental studies were carried out to determine the effect of concentration, molecular weight (MW), and chemistry of the polysaccharides on the calculated indices, which characterize the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of the treated hair. Experiments were conducted in a controlled temperature and humidity environment, which allowed us to monitor the behavior of the polymer-treated hair from 40-90% RH. Studies were also conducted on polymer blends and conventional styling polymers to provide guidance of the performance of naturally-derived polymers to their synthetic counterparts., Conclusions: A detailed description is provided for a user-friendly, quick method to measure the mechanical properties of styling ingredients on hair. We provide guidelines for three-point cantilever bending tests of straight hair tresses treated with conventional and naturally-derived styling polymers. Indices were developed to characterize the force-distance curves and were designated as E1, F1, position of F1, post-fracture gradient, toughness, E10/E1, and F10/F1. These indices provide an overall characterization of the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of polymer-treated hair., (© 2022 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin.)

Objective: Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes., Material and Methods: Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber., Results: To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution., Conclusion: Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties., (© 2023 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: Although vitamins or their derivatives (Vits), such as panthenyl ethyl ether, tocopherol acetate, and pyridoxine, have been widely used in topical hair care products, their efficacy and mode of action have been insufficiently studied., Objective: To elucidate the biological influence of Vits on hair follicles and determine the underlying mechanisms., Methods: A mouse vibrissa hair follicle organ culture model was utilized to evaluate the effects of Vits on hair shaft elongation. Gene and protein expression analyses and histological investigations were conducted to elucidate the responsible mechanisms. A human hair follicle cell culture was used to assess the clinical relevance., Results: In organ culture models, the combination of panthenyl ethyl ether, tocopherol acetate, and pyridoxine (namely, PPT) supplementation significantly promoted hair shaft elongation. PPT treatment enhanced hair matrix cell proliferation by 1.9-fold compared to controls, as demonstrated by Ki67-positive immunoreactivity. PPT-treated mouse dermal papillae exhibited upregulated Placental growth factor (Plgf) by 1.6-fold compared to controls. Importantly, the addition of PlGF neutralizing antibodies to the ex vivo culture diminished the promotive effect on hair growth and increase in VEGFR-1 phosphorylation achieved by PPT. A VEGFR-1 inhibitor also inhibited the promotion of hair growth. Microarray analysis suggested synergistic summation of individual Vits' bioactivity, putatively explaining the effect of PPT. Moreover, PPT increased PlGF secretion in cultured human dermal papilla cells., Conclusion: Our findings suggested that PPT promoted hair shaft elongation by activating PlGF/VEGFR-1 signalling. The current study can shed light on the previously underrepresented advantage of utilizing Vits in hair care products., (Copyright © 2022 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Objectives: This investigation focuses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry-testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically, we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat)., Methods: The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE), and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor analysis of variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction., Results: Correlations for the dry versus wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R 2 ) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix., Conclusions: The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure., (© 2022 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2022 Acta Materialia Inc. Published by Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Cationic conditioning polymers have a role as deposition aids for depositing benefit agents such as silicone polymers and are used in shampoo formulations to provide improved combing properties, feel, and look. The objective of this work was to develop synthetic high-performance polymeric conditioning agents that exhibit conditioning performance as good as, or better than, the current commercially available polymers. We describe the application of high throughput methods to identify high-performance synthetic hair-conditioning polymers through using high throughput combinatorial methods for polymer synthesis and screening to prepare several hundred cationic polymer candidates. Shampoo formulations were then formulated with these polymers; hair tresses were treated with these formulations and tested via a parallel automated wet combing method. Three high-performing polymer candidates were selected for further evaluation, prepared on a larger scale and evaluated via a panel study. A ( 3 -acrylamidopropyl)trimethylammonium chloride-vinyl monomer-based cationic copolymer is shown to exhibit hair conditioning efficiency equal to or greater than that of a high-performance cellulose ether-based polymer, SOFTCAT™ SL-5 (Polyquaternium-67) in a shampoo formulation.

Persistent hair loss is a major cause of psychological distress and compromised quality of life in millions of people worldwide. Remarkable progress has been made in understanding the molecular basis of hair loss and identifying valid intracellular targets for designing effective therapies for hair loss treatment. Whereas a variety of growth factors and signaling pathways have been implicated in hair cycling process, the activation of Wnt/β-catenin signaling plays a central role in hair follicle regeneration. Several plant-derived chemicals have been reported to promote hair growth by activating Wnt/β-catenin signaling in various in vitro and in vivo studies. This mini-review sheds light on the role of Wnt/β-catenin in promoting hair growth and the current progress in designing hair loss therapies by targeting this signaling pathway.

Background: Acid straightener products are widely used, and it can cause changes in the hair shaft properties. The pH value of these products established by ANVISA (Brazil's National Health Surveillance Agency) as secure is above 2.0. However, the industries are interested in working at lower pH values in order to increase the straightening effect. Unfortunately, there are a lot of products in the market with pH value under the permitted., Objective: Analyze two different pH values (1.0 and 2.0) of acid straightener formulation and the influence of this difference in the hair shaft properties. In order to provide information to professionals as cosmetologists, dermatologists, and hairdressers., Methods: Combing and colorimetric analyses, tensile strength, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), environmental scanning electron microscope (ESEM), and tryptophan content., Results: The tresses treated at pH 1.0 had a better result in the straightening capacity, improving the combing test in 59.4%, while those at pH 2.0, only in 33.0% compared with virgin hair. However, the tensile strength, at pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and 9.0% to the pH 2.0. In addition, the tryptophan content was lower in the tresses treated with formulation at pH 1.0. The DSC analysis showed impairment in the straightened tresses. The images by ESEM, indicated a possible formation of a film around the fiber., Conclusions: It was possible to conclude that the pH value interferes in the hair shaft properties. Tresses treated with pH 1.0 had more modifications than tresses treated with pH 2.0., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Approximately 40% of women experience excessive hair shedding when washing their hair. Previously, we have demonstrated that a topically applied α1 adrenergic receptor agonist can be used to contract the arrector pili muscle of the follicular unit (ie, produce "goose bumps"), increasing the force required to pluck hair by as much as 400%. Subsequently, we reported a topical cosmetic solution containing an α1 adrenergic receptor agonist that reduced hair shedding during brushing by a maximum of 77%., Aims: In this communication, we explore a novel mechanism to contract the arrector pili muscle. Trace amine-associated receptors (TAAR) have been shown to regulate smooth muscle tone in blood vessels, but have not been reported to be present in the skin. Here, we report on the anti-shedding efficacy of a shampoo containing a selective TAAR agonist, tyramine hydrochloride., Methods: A single-blinded crossover study was designed to test the efficacy of the novel shampoo versus placebo in reducing hairs lost during brushing., Results: In this study, the novel TAAR shampoo reduced hair shedding during brushing by 31% in a cohort of 24 women with a maximum reduction of 77%., Conclusions: A shampoo formulated with a selective TAAR agonist was demonstrated to contract the arrector pili muscle and reduce hair shedding subsequent to washing., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Objective: Dandruff is a complex skin condition characterized by unpleasant itching and flaking of the scalp. It is primarily attributed to the over colonization of Malassezia yeasts such as Malassezia globosa and Malassezia restricta. Some studies also suggest the involvement of staphylococci bacteria in dandruff disease pathogenesis. We aimed to access the effectiveness of anti-dandruff treatments by determining the efficacy of the active antifungal agents alone or in commercial shampoo formulations against Malassezia and Staphylococcus., Methods: The minimum inhibitory concentrations of three anti-dandruff shampoo antifungals (zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole and ciclopirox) and the witch hazel extract, hamamelitannin were tested against commensal Malassezia and Staphylococcus species using broth microdilution methods. In experiments simulating shampoo exposure and washing conditions on the scalp, we also tested the ability of the above agents in shampoo formulation (Head and Shoulders ® (H&S), Ketomed ® , Sebiprox ® , Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo ® respectively) along with a generic over-the-shelf shampoo to inhibit microbial growth., Results: Ketomed ® and H&S shampoo were the most effective treatments against Malassezia in in vitro assays and washing simulation experiments. Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo ® was less effective against Malassezia as it required a longer contact time to achieve growth inhibition for some species. Sebiprox ® showed variable efficacy in washing and contact time experiments whereas the generic over-the-shelf shampoo was the least effective in inhibiting Malassezia and Staphylococcus growth., Conclusion: From these findings, it is reasonable that patients with dandruff may benefit from applying specific antifungal shampoo although results may vary with microbial species, time of contact and shampoo formulation components., (© 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Background: The regreasing process of hair by sebum is daily observed by consumers. Methods to investigate this phenomenon were scarcely updated since the 1990s, despite the constant progresses in hair cleaning procedures or shampoo formulations. Our objective was first, to develop an in vivo noninvasive method for quantifying the spread of sebum along the hair shaft. Secondly, we use this new method to define the overall kinetics of the hair-regreasing process among two cohorts of Chinese men with opposite self-perceptions of their scalp/hair greasiness (ie, greasy or not greasy)., Material and Methods: One hundred and twenty-three Chinese men (aged 18-35 years) participated to the study. The technique used basically adapts the Sebumeter™ technology where supple polymer films are applied onto and along the hair shaft. The sampled hair sebum is further quantified by image analysis/increased transparency., Results: The technique developed showed an adequate reproducibility under fixed conditions (pressure, investigators, scalp sites, etc.). In the two cohorts of subjects (eg, greasy, nongreasy), hair regreasing process was found sharing a same linear progression with time. The two cohorts of men presented significantly different values in the total amount of spread sebum by an approximately two-fold coefficient, with however comparable average values in the sebum amount present at the root region 48 hours post shampoo. At such timing, the spread of sebum reaches much longer distances in the greasy scalp cohort., Conclusion: This technique appears promising for assessing the efficacy of cosmetic ingredients (or products) that aim at delaying a natural process that is daily and negatively perceived by consumers., (© 2018 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: Hair coloring is broadly used by women and men either to change their natural hair color or to delay the onset of gray hair. Oxidative dyes may damage the hair, as chemical and physical processes are required to convert the fiber structure and, consequently, alterations in its mechanical and surface properties., Objectives: The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of silanetriol (and) Panthenol, PEG-12 dimethicone, and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose as conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye by protein loss, combability, and breaking strength., Methods: In this research, we analyzed the untreated hair (sample I) and the effect of oxidative hair dye emulsions, with or without conditioner agents (sample II) silanetriol (and) Panthenol (sample III), PEG-12 dimethicone (sample IV), and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose (sample V) on Caucasian hair. The hair samples were submitted to protein loss quantification, breaking strength, and combing analysis., Results: For protein loss, the results were: II a  = V a  > IV b  > III c  > I d . For the breaking strength: I e  = II e  = III e  = IV e  = V e . For the combing analysis for wet and dry hair, the results were, respectively: II a  > III b  = IV b  > V c  > I d and II A  > III b  = V b  > IV  c = I c . Data classified by different letters presented statistically significant alterations, α = 5, P ≤ . 05, n = 15., Conclusions: Based on these results, the incorporation of conditioner agents into emulsion blond color decreased the damage caused by the coloring process., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Polyquaterniums (PQs) as important ingredients of hair products are synthetic cationic polymers and are used in commercial hair volumizers and conditioners., Methods: Three different grades of polymers including PQ 87, 68, and 46 with various concentrations were used, and their hair deposition efficacy was measured at 5 different pH values using hair diameters measurements by digital micrometer. Deposition durability of polymer layer on the hair surface was tested by a defined washing test. Optical microscopic images and polarized light images were also taken from treated and untreated samples for further investigation. Attenuated total reflectance (ATR) spectral were recorded from hair samples to prove the polymer deposition and probable interaction with hair fibers., Results: PQ-68 with the highest molecular weight (300 kDa) at pH = 9 exhibited the best hair deposition efficacy. The results revealed that the deposition of polymers is directly proportional to the pH values. The best results were seen at pH = 9, and at the lowest pH (pH = 5), the efficiency of polymers was approximately equal to zero. The best resistance against washing was shown by PQ-44 at pH = 6. ATR successfully tracked the presence of the polymers on the hair fibers and also proposed specific wave numbers for each polymeric agent, individually., Conclusions: In general, two main parameter which can mainly influence the deposition efficacy of PQs are the type of polymer or its molecular weight and also the positive charge density on the polymer molecules., (© 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the efficacy of a multifunctional hair care formulation-Hair BB Cream-containing botanical extracts of Camellia sinensis, Vitis vinifera, and Euterpe orleacea, vitamins, amino acids, UV filters, and silicones for hair treatment and prevention of UV damages. The in vitro antioxidant activity of the botanical extracts was evaluated using the DPPH and chemiluminescence methods. A tensile test, combability, shine, and image analysis were performed to evaluate the efficacy of the formulation. To evaluate protection against UV damage, the hair strands were submitted to UV radiation without and with the application of the Hair BB Cream. The results showed that the application of the Hair BB Cream promoted a reduction in combability values and an increase in break stress and gloss values. After exposure to UV radiation, the hair treated with the BB Cream formulation showed no difference in the mechanical properties test, indicating protection against UV damage. In conclusion, the multifunctional formulation showed several benefits of single product acting in the prevention of UV damage and the treatment of hair damage. Thus, the Hair BB Cream proposed can be suggested as an effective multifunctional hair care product., (© 2018 The American Society of Photobiology.)

Background: Currently while, topical minoxidil and oral finasteride are the only medications approved in androgenetic alopecia (AGA), the cause oriented treatment and immunsupressive treatment are being performed in telogen effluvium (TE) and alopecia areata (AA) respectively. Considering the inflammatory factors in the pathogenesis of these three nonscarring alopecia forms, we have formulated a mixture for topical usage composed of six different herbal extracts (HE) which have already known antiinflammatory and antioxidant features., Materials and Methods: In addition to performing the phytochemical analysis of HE, we detected the gene expression level of IL-1α, the crucial hair loss mediator, for the putative efficacy in nonscarring alopecia. Cell proliferation assay was performed by XTT reagent. After determination of non-cytotoxic concentration, HaCaT cells were treated with HE. RNA isolations were carried out from both non-treated and treated cell groups by using TRI-reagent. Gene expressions of IL-1α and as control GAPDH were determined by RT-qPCR analysis., Results: Results were represented as "IL-1α/GAPDH Fold Change". HE solution caused statistically significant downregulation of IL-1α gene expressions (p<0.0001), compared to untreated control cells. HE treatment ended up with 0.1900 fold change for IL-1α., Conclusion: IL-1α is a direct growth inhibitory agent in hair follicles and an important actor in the pathogenesis of AGA , TE, and AA. Considering together the vitamins, flavonoids, and trace elements identified in the phytochemical analyses and downregulation of IL-1α in HaCaT cells, our HE may be an auxiliary agent in the therapy of these three nonscarring alopecia forms.

Background/purpose: Focus on the hair and hair cuticle is increasing. The hair cuticle is the first layer to be exposed to damage and the area of primary protection. For such reasons, hair product manufacturers consider cuticle protection important. However, previous studies used only visual assessment to examine the cuticle. This study aimed to obtain the changes in cuticles and measure hair roughness using a HIROX microscope., Methods: A total of 23 female subjects used the same products daily for 4 weeks. Three hair samples per subject were collected from three different areas of the head. Measurements were taken before and after 4 weeks of daily product use., Results: The hair surface changes were clearly observed on the captured images. Moreover, hair surface roughness was observed using various parameters on HIROX software. After 4 weeks of daily product use, the roughness parameter value of the hair surface was significantly decreased., Conclusion: Our result suggests that the hair roughness analytical method using HIROX can be a new paradigm for high-quality quantitative analysis of the hair cuticle., (© 2017 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background/purpose: Hair straighteners are very popular around the world, although they can cause great damage to the hair. Thus, the characterization of the mechanical properties of curly hair using advanced techniques is very important to clarify how hair straighteners act on hair fibers and to contribute to the development of effective products. On this basis, we chose two nonconventional hair straighteners (formaldehyde and glyoxylic acid) to investigate how hair straightening treatments affect the mechanical properties of curly hair., Methods: The mechanical properties of curly hair were evaluated using a tensile test, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) measurements, scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), a torsion modulus, dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis., Results: The techniques used effectively helped the understanding of the influence of nonconventional hair straighteners on hair properties. For the break stress and the break extension tests, formaldehyde showed a marked decrease in these parameters, with great hair damage. Glyoxylic acid had a slight effect compared to formaldehyde treatment. Both treatments showed an increase in shear modulus, a decrease in water sorption and damage to the hair surface., Conclusions: A combination of the techniques used in this study permitted a better understanding of nonconventional hair straightener treatments and also supported the choice of the better treatment, considering a good relationship between efficacy and safety. Thus, it is very important to determine the properties of hair for the development of cosmetics used to improve the beauty of curly hair., (© 2017 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Based on the crucial roles of ceramides in skin barrier function, use of ceramides or their structural mimetic compounds, pseudoceramides, as cosmetic ingredients are getting more popular. While currently used pseudoceramides are intended to substitute the structural roles of ceramides in stratum corneum, development of bioactive pseudoceramides has been repeatedly reported. In this study, based on the potential involvement of sphingolipids in hair cycle regulation, we investigated the effects of newly synthesized pseudoceramide, bis-oleamido isopropyl alcohol (BOI), on hair growth using cultured human hair follicles and animal models. BOI treatment promoted hair growth in cultured human hair follicles ex vivo and induced earlier conversion of telogen into anagen. Although we did not find a significant enhancement of growth factor expression and follicular cell proliferation, BOI treatment resulted in an increased sphinganine and sphingosine contents as well as increased ceramides contents in cultured dermal papilla (DP) cells. Taken together, our data strongly suggest that biologically active pseudoceramide promotes hair growth by stimulating do novo synthesis of sphingolipids in DP cells., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Chemical relaxers are products marketed to straighten the hair and have been principally used by African Americans since the early twentieth century. They contain alkaline agents that break and reform hydrogen and disulfide bonds, leaving hair permanently straightened. Relaxers cause loss of tensile strength and increased fragility of the hair shaft that lead to increased risk of hair breakage and thinning. When used improperly, they can also cause local irritant contact dermatitis and chemical burns to the scalp and hairline that can potentially lead to a scarring alopecia. After interviewing several cosmetology educators in the field and reviewing the literature, we generated a list of ten pearls that all dermatologists should know about relaxers to provide professional guidance to their patients., (© 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: The hair pull test lacks validation and has unclear pretest guidelines., Objective: We sought to quantify normal hair pull test values and elucidate the effect of pretest hair washing and brushing. The impact of hair texture and lifestyle was also examined., Methods: Participants (n = 181) completed a questionnaire recording demographics, medications, and hair health/history. A single hair pull test (scalp vertex) was performed., Results: The mean number of hairs removed per pull was 0.44 (SD 0.75). There was no significant difference in the mean number of hairs removed regardless of when participants washed (P = .20) or brushed (P = .25) their hair. Hair pull test values were similar between Caucasian-, Asian-, and Afro-textured hair. There was no significant difference in hair pull values between participants taking medications affecting hair loss and participants not taking these medications (P = .33). Tight hairstyles did not influence hair pull test values., Limitations: Participant hair washing and brushing could not be controlled during the study, but this information was documented and analyzed., Conclusion: Normal values for the hair pull test should be reduced to 2 hairs or fewer (97.2% of participants). The current 5-day restriction on pretest hair washing can be reduced and brushing be made permissible., (Copyright © 2016 American Academy of Dermatology, Inc. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Green tea has cosmetic benefits that include activities against androgen disorders. A hair tonic containing green tea for reduction of scalp sebum was developed and clinically evaluated. Stable green tea hair tonics were closed-patch tested and clinically evaluated in 20 volunteers for 28 days by using a Sebumeter ® . Hair tonic base with glycerin and butylene glycol (total 4%) gained the highest consumers’ preference was incorporated with green tea extract. All of the products were stable and none caused skin irritation. Green tea hair tonic (2%) significantly (p ≤ 0.024) lowered scalp sebum for 21 and 28 days following the application, suggesting that this topical therapy of scalp greasiness is safe and efficient.

The culturally engrained practice of 'relaxing' afro-textured hair has been linked with hair and scalp disorders. Herein, we discuss the evolution of human hair types, focusing in particular on afro-textured hair. We explore the biological features of this hair type, and discuss the different methods employed to straighten afro-textured hair, focusing in particular on chemical straightening. We also examine clinical, anthropological, and psychological issues associated with this latter practice. Examples of common scalp pathologies associated with chronic hair relaxing, such as alopecia, hair breakage, caustic burns and irritant contact dermatitis, are also highlighted. The data presented herein should enable clinicians to engage in culturally appropriate discussions with their patients about issues of appearance and conformity., (© 2015 European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.)

Background: Hair chemical treatments, such as dyeing and straightening products, are known to cause damage that can be assessed by protein loss., Objectives: The aim of this study was to evaluate the hair protein loss caused by combined chemical treatments (dye and relaxer) using the validated bicinchoninic acid (BCA) method. Three kinds of straighteners, based on ammonium thioglycolate, guanidine hydroxide and sodium hydroxide, were evaluated and the least harmful combination indicated., Methods: Caucasian virgin dark brown hair tresses were treated with developed natural brown color oxidative hair dyeing and/or straightening commercial products based on ammonium thioglycolate, sodium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide. Protein loss quantification was assessed by the validated BCA method which has several advantages for quantifying protein loss in chemically treated hair., Results: When both treatments (straightening and dyeing) were combined, a higher negative effect was observed, particularly for dyed hair treated with sodium hydroxide. In this case, a 356% increase in protein loss relative to virgin hair was observed and 208% in relation to only dyed hair. The combination of dying and relaxers based on ammonium thioglycolate or guanidine hydroxide caused a small increase in protein loss, suggesting that these straightening products could be the best alternatives for individuals wishing to combine both treatments., Conclusions: These results indicated that when application of both types of products is desired, ammonium thioglycolate or guanidine hydroxide should be chosen for the straightening process., (© 2015 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Human hair serves a biological purpose of protecting the scalp, as well as physical attractiveness to the perception of beauty. Hair loss, graying of hair, dandruff and other conditions affecting hair conditions can be distressing to patients, as hair condition is often considered important in people's own assessment of physical beauty. Different hair types can benefit from different treatment methods to promote hair health and growth. External factors like exposure to the sun and smoking, dietary factors including malnutrition of essential fatty acids and vitamins, and chemicals applied to the hair and scalp in shampoos and other treatments can all cause damage to existing hair and impair hair growth. Specific chemicals found in many shampoos, including antimicrobial agents, surfactants and preservatives, can all impair different aspects of hair health. In this review, we aim to discuss the main hair issues, such as hair loss, followed by the safety assessments of selected ingredients in shampoo, and possible nourishment for scalp improvement. This review highlights areas of disagreement in the existing literature, and points to new directions for future studies. Key conclusions include the carcinogenic chemicals to avoid, alternatives of such ingredients, and scalp nourishing treatments with micronutrients.

Objective: To investigate the effect of different washing regimes on the surface of human hair at the nanometre scale - comparable to the size of typical deposits left behind by commercial products., Methods: Atomic force microscopy (AFM) and related techniques., Results: It can be directly seen that washing hair using commercial hair care products removes deposits that naturally form on the shaft, revealing the underlying structure of the hair, whereas in many cases leaving new deposits behind. The spatial distribution of these deposits is explored and quantified. The spatial distribution of the surface charge of pristine hair is mapped, and the electrical screening effect of deposits is directly observed. We also show that the roughness of the treated hair depends directly on the type of product used, with a marked difference between shampoo and conditioner. Some products leave isolated deposits behind, whereas others leave layers of material behind which wet the hair surface., Conclusion: Atomic force microscopy and the related techniques we have employed in a forensic approach is able to distinguish between different hair care products on the basis of the deposits they leave behind. This opens up the capability of further analysis tools to complement already existing techniques., (© 2014 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Head lice infestation (or pediculosis) is an important public health problem in Thailand, especially in children between the ages 5 and 11 years. Head lice resistance is increasing, chemical pediculicides have lost their efficacy, and, therefore, alternative pediculicides such as herbal shampoos have been proposed to treat head lice infestation. Thus, the present study investigated the efficacy of three herbal shampoos based on native plants in Thailand (Acorus calamus Linn., Phyllanthus emblica Linn., and Zanthoxylum limonella Alston) against head lice and compared them with carbaryl shampoo (Hafif shampoo, 0.6% w/v carbaryl), malathion shampoo (A-Lice shampoo, 1.0% w/v malathion), and commercial shampoos (Babi Mild Natural' N Mild and Johnson's baby shampoo) in order to assess their in vitro and in vivo efficacy. For in vitro study, doses of 0.12 and 0.25 ml/cm(2) of each herbal shampoo were applied to filter paper, then 10 head lice were place on the filter paper. The mortalities of head lice were recorded at 5, 15, 30, and 60 min. The results revealed that all herbal shampoo were more effective on pediculicidal activity than chemical and commercial shampoos with 100% mortality at 15 min; LT₅₀ values ranged from 0.25 to 1.90 min. Meanwhile, chemical shampoos caused 20-80% mortality, and LT₅₀ values ranged from 6.50 to 85.43 min. On the other side, commercial shampoos showed 4.0% mortality. The most effective pediculicide was Z. limonella shampoo, followed by A. calamus shampoo, P. emblica shampoo, carbaryl shampoo, malathion shampoo, and commercial shampoo, respectively. In vivo results showed that all herbal shampoos were also more effective for head lice treatment than chemical and commercial shampoos with 94.67-97.68% of cure rate after the first treatment; the second treatment, 7 days later, revealed that the cure rate was 100%. Meanwhile, chemical shampoo showed 71.67-93.0% of cure rate and, unfortunately, commercial shampoos were nontoxic to head lice and showed 0% of cure rate after the first and the second treatments. Our data showed that three herbal shampoos of native plants in Thailand in this study are suitable to be used as pediculicides for Thai children since it is safe for children and there is no side-effect after application.

Through measurements of three different hair samples (virgin and treated) by the torsional pendulum method (22°C, 22% RH) a systematic decrease of the torsional storage modulus G' with increasing fiber diameter, i.e., polar moment of inertia, is observed. G' is therefore not a material constant for hair. This change of G' implies a systematic component of data variance, which significantly contributes to the limitations of the torsional method for cosmetic claim support. Fitting the data on the basis of a core/shell model for cortex and cuticle enables to separate this systematic component of variance and to greatly enhance the discriminative power of the test. The fitting procedure also provides values for the torsional storage moduli of the morphological components, confirming that the cuticle modulus is substantially higher than that of the cortex. The results give consistent insight into the changes imparted to the morphological components by the cosmetic treatments.

Objectives: The objective of this work was to develop a new strategy to physically 'repair' chemically damaged hair. Hence the human eye γD-crystallin, a protein from the superfamily characterized structurally by the Greek key motif, was studied. The human γD-crystallin was chosen based on the ability of proteins belonging to this superfamily to be involved in the coating of specific structures. Two crystallins were used on the study, the wild type (Protein Data Bank ID: 1HK0) and the mutant protein. The mutant form was intended to induce a strong and quick protein polymerization as well to have new possible points of anchorage to hair., Methods: The ability of both crystallins to bind to damaged hair and even penetrate into its cortex was checked by fluorescence microscopy, confocal microscopy and scanning electron microscopy. Furthermore the reinforcement of hair mechanical resistance, the potential cytotoxic/inflammatory effect of crystallins were studied in order to have a fully comprehension about the protein based formulation., Results: Although the chemical over-bleaching treatment induced a decrease of 20% on the resistance of the hair, the crystallins which bind and penetrate the hair fibre were able to recover and even to improve its mechanical properties when compared to the virgin hair. Moreover none of the crystallins displayed a toxic effect in fibroblasts for all the range of tested concentrations upon 72 h of exposure. The active aggregation process of mutant crystallin induced an inflammatory response in fibroblasts in the first 24 h of contact, measured by the amount of released pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-6 to the medium. In contrast contact with wild type crystallin did not lead to significant inflammation., Conclusion: Outcome from protein formulation characterization supports the hypothesis that the γD-crystallin it is able to recover and improve the mechanical properties of chemical damaged hair. Therefore it can be considered as a very promising strengthening agent for the development of new restorative hair care products., (© 2013 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Using various physicochemical methods of analysis, we examined human hair in its virgin and delipidized state. Free lipids were removed by a solvent extraction technique (covalently bound lipids were not removed) using a series of solvents with varying polarity. We analyzed the surface properties of hair by conducting mechanical combing and dynamic contact angle analysis. In addition, we used inverse gas chromatography surface energy analysis to explore the chemical composition of the hair surface based on interactions of various nonpolar and polar probes with biological molecules residing on the hair surface. Further, we investigated the importance that free lipids play in the internal structural properties of hair using dynamic scanning calorimetry and tensile strength measurements. The microstructure of the hair surface was probed by atomic force microscopy, whereas the lipid content of hair's morphological components was determined by infrared spectroscopic imaging. We also monitored the water management properties of virgin and delipidized hair by dynamic vapor sorption, which yielded unique water sorption isotherms for each hair type. Using all these techniques, differences were found in the chemical composition and physical behavior of virgin and delipidized hair. To better understand the influence of hair lipid composition on hair styling treatments, we conducted mechanical analyses of hair shaped into omega loops to determine the stiffness, elasticity, and flexibility of hair-polymer assemblies. Although there were no discernible differences between untreated virgin and delipidized hair, in terms of stiffness and elasticity, we found that treatment with hair styling agents produced different effects depending on the hair type used. Likewise, streaming potential measurements were carried out to monitor the binding capacity of rinse-off treatments on virgin and delipidized hair. Using this technique, we monitored the surface potential of hair and found significant differences in the binding behavior of cationic polymers and surfactants (polyquaternium-55 and quaternium-26) on both hair types.

Background: Hair analysis of ethyl glucuronide (EtG) has become, beside fatty acid ethyl ester, a valuable marker for the detection of moderate and chronic excessive alcohol consumption. So far, only few studies exist about the influence of cosmetic treatment on EtG content in hair. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of coloring, bleaching, and perming on the concentration of this alcohol marker in hair. Studies were also performed to evaluate the chemical stability of EtG in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and ammonium thioglycolate., Methods: Six air samples were treated in vitro by the different commercial cosmetics following the suppliers' instructions. After washing, pulverization, incubation in ultrasonic bath, and solid phase extraction, EtG was determined by GC/MS-NICI after solid phase extraction and heptafluorobutyric anhydride derivatization., Results: The results showed that samples (n = 10) treated with the coloring product did not show any important change in the EtG results. In the bleaching study (n = 23), a mean decrease of 73.5% was observed. After incubation of a solution of EtG with hydrogen peroxide (15%), a decrease of 45% was shown supporting the hypothesis of a chemical degradation of EtG and a leaching out effect from the hair matrix. In the perm treatment study (n = 23), a mean decrease of 95.7% of EtG was found. Incubation of a solution of EtG with ammonium thioglycolate (5%) showed a total decrease of EtG supporting the hypothesis of a chemical degradation., Conclusions: Coloring treatment did not importantly influence EtG content in hair. However, an important decrease of EtG in hair could be found after bleaching and permanent wave treatment. This decrease seems to be because of a chemical degradation of EtG, after bleaching, and a leaching out effect from the matrix. After perming, it seems to be more of a chemical degradation of EtG. These data have to be considered for the correct interpretation of EtG amounts in hair.

Brazilian keratin treatments are widely available products that are used by women all over the world to straighten hair. Marketers of these products claim that the keratin treatments render naturally curly hair more manageable and frizz-free while enhancing color and shine, giving the hair a healthier appearance. Although widely used, there have been virtually no reports of adverse side effects. Unfortunately, many of the products that are applied by salon professionals contain formaldehyde or its derivatives and are being marketed as safe., (© 2013 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Differences in perceived sensory scalp discomfort between guanidine carbonate/calcium hydroxide (no-lye) and sodium hydroxide (lye) relaxer technologies have been reported by users for decades. However, the biochemical processes responsible for the perceived differences have not been fully studied. We have used an in vitro three-dimensional skin model with well-developed epidermis to explore the expression of cytokines that may partially explain the biological response resulting in differences in sensory perception. The cytokines selected were prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), interleukin-1a (IL-1a), and IL-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1ra) because they have been shown to participate in irritant-induced discomfort. We show that lye relaxer induced over 350% increase in PGE2 expression over untreated control compared to 200% by no-lye in the early phase (4 h) postexposure epidermal response. Expression of IL-1a in the early phase showed no significant difference between lye and no-lye; however, no-lye induced higher levels (p < 0.0001) in 24 and 48 h. Concomitantly, no-lye induced increased expression of IL-1ra compared to lye at all time points. Given the association of PGE2 with nociceptive activation, these findings suggest that the perceived variation in sensory discomfort reported by consumers between lye and no-lye relaxers may be associated with differences in induced PGE2 expression.

Hair is considered one of the most defining aspects of human appearance. Hair loss, or alopecia in women is often met with significant emotional distress and anxiety. In midlife, women may encounter various hormonal and age-related physiologic changes that can lead to alterations in hair texture and growth. The most significant hormonal alteration is the onset of menopause in which there is a cessation of ovarian estrogen production. This decrease in estrogen is known to have deleterious effects on the skin and cutaneous appendages. As our understanding of the molecular and hormonal controls on the hair follicle has grown, there has been increased interest in the various modulators of hair growth, including the potential role of estrogen. Further study of hair changes in midlife women provides an important opportunity for identification of the complex regulation of hair growth as well as identification of treatment targets that may specifically benefit women. In this review, management of hair loss in midlife women is discussed with a focus on three most commonly encountered clinical conditions: female pattern hair loss, hair shaft alterations due to hair care, and telogen effluvium., (Copyright © 2012 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Background/purpose: The water content of hair can be evaluated by weighing, the Karl Fischer method, and from electrical properties. However, these methods cannot be used to study the distribution of water in the hair. Imaging techniques are required for this purpose. In this study, a highly sensitive near-infrared (NIR) imaging system was developed for evaluating water in human hair. The results obtained from NIR imaging and conventional methods were compared., Methods: An extended indium-gallium-arsenide NIR camera (detection range: 1100-2200 nm) and diffuse illumination unit developed in our laboratory were used to obtain a NIR image of hair. A water image was obtained using a 1950-nm interference filter and polarization filter. Changes in the hair water content with relative humidity (20-95% RH) and after immersion in a 7% (w/w) sorbitol solution were measured using the NIR camera and an insulation resistance tester. The changes in the water content after treatment with two types of commercially available shampoo were also measured using the NIR camera., Results: As the water content increased with changes in the relative humidity, the brightness of the water image decreased and the insulation resistance decreased. The brightness in the NIR image of hair treated with sorbitol solution was lower than that in the image of hair treated with water. This shows the sorbitol-treated hair contains more water than water-treated hair. The sorbitol-treated hair had a lower resistance after treatment than before, which also shows that sorbitol treatment increases the water content. With this system, we could detect a difference in the moisturizing effect between two commercially available shampoos., Conclusion: The highly sensitive imaging system could be used to study water in human hair. Changes in the water content of hair depended on the relative humidity and treatment with moisturizer. The results obtained using the NIR imaging system were similar to those obtained using a conventional method. Our system could detect differences in the moisturizing effects of two commercially available shampoos., (© 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S.)

Background/objectives: Increasing resistance to pesticide-based head lice treatments has resulted in the need for alternative products to treat head lice infestations, but there are few clinical studies that have adequately tested these products. This multicentre, randomised, assessor-blind, parallel-group phase IV trial compared the safety and efficacy of a non-pesticide-based head lice shampoo with malathion foam in children., Methods: This trial used strict entry criteria, standardised treatment and assessment regimes, sibling control and a primary efficacy end-point defined as the absence of live head lice 21 days after initiating treatment. Repeat insult patch tests were performed to further assess the safety of the non-pesticide-based shampoo. In vitro tests were used to assess its ovicidal and pediculicidal efficacy., Results: A total of 216 children were enrolled, of whom 172 were per-protocol. The non-pesticide-based shampoo was significantly more effective than malathion foam for the intent-to-treat population (62.3 vs 40.4% louse-free, unadjusted P = 0.002; adjusted P = 0.003), as well as for the per-protocol population (67.8 vs 43.0% louse-free, unadjusted P = 0.001; adjusted P = 0.004). Adverse events were limited to itching or stinging. Patch testing with the non-pesticide-based shampoo resulted in no adverse reactions. In vitro tests using body lice demonstrated that the non-pesticide-based shampoo is ovicidal and pediculicidal., Conclusion: The non-pesticide-based shampoo is significantly more effective in eliminating head lice than malathion foam in children, while being associated with a low incidence of mild, transient adverse events., (© 2012 Ego Pharmaceuticals Pty Ltd Australasian Journal of Dermatology © 2012 The Australasian College of Dermatologists.)

Insecticide treatment resistance is considered to be a major factor in the increasing number of infestations by head lice. The large insecticide selection pressure induced by conventional topical pediculicides has led to the emergence and spread of resistance in many parts of the world. Possible mechanisms of resistance include accelerated detoxification of insecticides by enzyme-mediated reduction, esterification, oxidation that may be overcome by synergistic agents such as piperonyl butoxide, alteration of the binding site, e.g. altered acetylcholinesterase or altered nerve voltage-gated sodium channel, and knockdown resistance (kdr). Clinical, parasitological and molecular data on resistance to conventional topical pediculicides show that treatments with neurotoxic insecticides have suffered considerable loss of activity worldwide. In particular, resistance to synthetic pyrethroids has become prominent, probably because of their extensive use. As other treatment options, including non-insecticidal pediculicides such as dimeticone, are now available, the use of older insecticides, such as lindane and carbaryl, should be minimized, owing to their loss of efficacy and safety concerns. The organophosphorus insecticide malathion remains effective, except in the UK, mostly in formulations that include terpineol., (© 2012 The Authors. Clinical Microbiology and Infection © 2012 European Society of Clinical Microbiology and Infectious Diseases.)

This study compared the antimicrobial efficacy of shampoos against meticillin-sensitive Staphylococcus pseudintermedius (MSSP), meticillin-resistant S. pseudintermedius (MRSP), antibiotic-sensitive Pseudomonas aeruginosa (PA), multidrug-resistant P. aeruginosa (MDR-PA) and Malassezia pachydermatis. Three isolates were incubated for 10, 30 and 60 min with each shampoo diluted in phosphate-buffered saline. Aliquots were then incubated for 16-18 h on sheep blood agar (bacteria) or for 3 days on Sabouraud's dextrose agar (Malassezia). The minimal bactericidal concentrations (MBCs) for chlorhexidine products (Malaseb(®), Pyoderm(®)/Microbex(®) and Hibiscrub(®)) were 1:1,024-1:2,048 for MSSP and MRSP, 1:512-1:1,024 for PA and MDR-PA, and 1:2,048-1:5,096 for Malassezia at all time points. The MBCs for benzoyl peroxide (Paxcutol(®)) for MSSP and MRSP were 1:2-1:8 at 10 min, and 1:256 after 30 and 60 min. A 1:2 dilution was effective against Pseudomonas, and 1:512-1:1,024 dilutions were effective against Malassezia at all time points. The MBCs for ethyl lactate (Etiderm(®)) for MSSP and MRSP were 1:2 at 10 min, and 1:2-1:16 after 30 and 60 min. A 1:2 dilution was effective against Pseudomonas, and a 1:512 dilution was effective against Malassezia at all time points. Chloroxylenol (Coatex(®)) and acetic acid-boric acid (Malacetic(®)) were not effective against MSSP, MRSP or Pseudomonas. Both were effective against Malassezia at 1:8-1:16 dilution at 10 min, and at 1:8-1:32 dilution after 30 and 60 min. In conclusion, chlorhexidine appeared to be the most effective topical biocide, and MRSP and MDR-PA were no less susceptible than antibiotic-sensitive organisms. These results should, however, be confirmed with larger numbers of isolates., (© 2011 The Authors. Veterinary Dermatology. © 2011 ESVD and ACVD.)

This study was conducted to evaluate the effects of a commercially available shampoo in Korean subjects with alopecia using a simple hand-held phototrichogram technique. Forty-four subjects with alopecia were enrolled and forty subjects continued for 16 weeks. In the test group, total hair counts increased significantly at weeks 8 and 16, and the number of shedding hair significantly decreased at week 16. Terminal hair counts significantly increased at week 8. In the control group, hair thickness and the number of vellus hairs significantly decreased at week 16. The number of total hairs significantly increased in the test group than in the control group at weeks 8 and 16. The number of shedding hairs significantly decreased in the test group than in the control group at week 16. Visual assessment using clinical digital images showed that the number of total hairs appeared to increase although there was no statistical significance. In this study, it was found that the test shampoo could prevent hair loss., (© 2011 DERMAPRO Co Ltd. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Literature dealing with the mechanisms of hair breakage in combing and brushing published so far has been reviewed as a background for the critical evaluation of the method and data analysis of the paper "Statistical Analysis of Hair Breakage. II" by Evans and Park (1). Accumulated knowledge about hair breakage in these grooming processes indicates that hair breakage in combing and brushing results from tangling, looping, knotting, and impact loading. Fatiguing, though responsible for some weakening of the fiber in the grooming process, it is unlikely to be a significant factor in hair breakage in combing and brushing.