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This chapter explores the notion of secondhand luxury fashion in Dubai. We investigate the unique characteristics of the secondhand luxury market defined by this rapidly growing, nouveau riche region, with a focus on the challenges and opportunities for the sector. Qualitative data informs this chapter, collected via a series of key informant interviews with consumers, experts and retailers from Dubai, as well as significant secondary data. Luxury retail in Dubai has grown rapidly in the last 20 years. Secondhand luxury is an even newer concept in Dubai and has only been in existence as a ‘sector’ for the last 2 years. Social status is critical in this new consumer market, and thus, wearing luxury brands is an important indicator of status. Super-rich consumers of luxury represent a relatively small group and tend to only wear items once, so articles can become secondhand very quickly, often ‘in season’, giving rise to the notion of ‘luxe fast fashion’ which, combined with an increasing interest in social responsibility and sustainability amongst the super-rich, has created a critical mass of items flowing through to the secondhand market. The research identifies three tiers of luxury consumer in Dubai, all of whom are culture bound which influences what, how, where and why they purchase luxury fashion. The primary tier made up of the super-wealthy social elite of Dubaians and expats, who would only ever consider purchasing new luxury items. These primary luxury consumers become the sellers of secondhand luxury and have distinct characteristics heavily influenced by local culture and social status. The secondary and tertiary tier luxury consumers are increasingly accepting the purchase of secondhand luxury. The secondary tier made up of wealthy expats, who are keen to convey their rising social status via conspicuous consumption of luxury brands, whilst the tertiary tier is characterised by the low-paid immigrant workers, who purchase secondhand luxury from ‘jumble sales’.

PurposeThe paper aims to establish how fast fashion is translated and communicated in the retail store environment.Design/methodology/approachAn interpretive paradigm and inductive methodology made use of participant observation and key informant interviews.FindingsWhilst efficiencies in the supply chain have facilitated fast fashion's success, centralised control structures have meant that these efficiencies and flexibilities have not been translated into the retail store environment. Marketing communications activity is evident in relation to aspects of fast fashion, for example, through the use of “hero pieces” as identified in this research, however, availability and retail presence must support the fast fashion proposition.Research limitations/implicationsThe paper has a UK focus where fast fashion is well established, therefore generalisations relating to other fashion markets may not be appropriate.Practical implicationsRetailers may have interest in the findings to gain competitive advantage in fast fashion.Originality/valueAcademic research on fast fashion research is still in its infancy, however this paper provides some unique insights into the phenomenon which may add to the nascent literature.

PurposeThe phenomenon of fast fashion is under‐researched academically, yet has received attention in most of the fashion and business press. Therefore, as it would seem timely, this article aims to present the findings of some exploratory research.Design/methodology/approachThe concept of agile supply chains or supply chain theory is explored with reference to fast fashion requirements. The research was carried out using in‐depth interviews of key informants in the fashion industry.FindingsThe major findings of this exploratory research demonstrate a developmental process occurring in supply chain management when fast fashion comes into the equation. This research provides additional complexity on the existing model of supply chain management for the fashion industry.Research limitations/implicationsThis paper presents a research agenda for future exploration. There are implications for theoretical perspectives of supply chain management as well as retail operations.Originality/valueThis paper offers insights into the impact of fast fashion on the supply chain and the links in the process which deserve further research attention.

PurposeThis paper explores fashion availability, fit and affordability in the UK stores especially for those women who wear size 16 and over; and examines their satisfaction/dissatisfaction with the retail experience.Design/methodology/approachThe satisfaction of customer needs remains a fundamental tenet of marketing theory, research and application. This survey was an exploratory study into satisfaction/dissatisfaction with the fashion provision and shopping environments for women in the UK. A questionnaire solicited the views of 250 women thereby enabling the researchers to gauge consumers' views on sizing, fit and fashion availability, perception of current offers, pricing and shopping environments.FindingsA large percentage of females, particularly those who wear size 16 and over, are dissatisfied with retail environments, fashion and sizing provision among major UK market players. While most women shopped from the high street and department stores, the larger woman had great difficulty in finding well‐fitting fashionable clothing in general, and with certain categories being most problematic. Respondents' views would appear to contradict previously accepted wisdom that clothing consumption activity is leisure and pleasure orientated; many negative experiences prevailed leaving them unhappy and disenfranchised.Research limitations/implicationsThe findings presented are the views of women's experiences in one city in the UK. Future research could include a wider sample from more cities.Practical implicationsMarketers should be aware of the need for affordable fashions for larger women. Lack of appropriate sizes is a major source of dissatisfaction. This creates negative emotions in terms of: merchandise choice, visual merchandising, store environment, sales personnel attitude, pricing policies and promotional activities. These factors are the very foundations of consumer satisfaction and the evidence of consumer dissatisfaction resulting in avoidance behaviour should be particularly worrying for retailers, given that they are operating in an increasingly competitive and saturated fashion environment.Originality/valueThis paper provides an initial indication of what creates consumer satisfaction or dissatisfaction about fashion, fit, affordability and retail environments in the UK particularly among larger women. This paper shows areas of specific concern for marketers.

This section of the Journal is entitled News and Views. It can include practitioner papers, news, events, conference reports, calls for papers, trend summaries, statistics, working papers, etc. Submissions are invited from both academic and industry sources. Contributions are welcome and because this section has a shorter lead time than the main body of the Journal we will be accepting and including ‘copy’ right up to going to press.

Draws on the findings of a quantitative survey and a number of qualitative focus groups and interviews to explore consumer behaviour and reasoning concerning the return of products. The findings serve as the basis for the discussion of the special case of returns deliberately premeditated at the point of purchase, a behaviour pattern termed “deshopping”. The incidence, key features and causes of “deshopping” behaviour are explored. Findings clearly illustrate the interplay of the functional, experiential and symbolic aspect of the consumption process as underpinning this behaviour pattern. Furthermore, they point to a cognitive lag between legal and perceived contract which hinges on the concept of “newness”, tied to the use of the exchange value rather than the symbolic value of the product. Deshopping serves as a financial and social risk reducing strategy which is unique in that it can be applied after the time of purchase.

The second annual conference of the Research Alliance of Fashion and Textiles (RAFT), hosted by the Department of Clothing Design and Technology of Manchester Metropolitan University (MMU), took place in Manchester in June.

Sportswear within the clothing market has shown the strongest growth in the 1990s (Mintel 1998a), despite slow growth in the ‘general’ clothing sector.

This paper outlines recent research which demonstrates that the re‐naming of display as visual merchandising has led to centralisation and professionalism of the function. Centralisation of visual merchandising has given the function a strategic profile which has to date been neglected within the literature. The move towards centralisation and therefore increased professionalisation and sophistication of the creative process is discussed and includes the following benefits outlined by the respondents: (1) communicating a cohesive brand image; (2) differentiating the offer from the competition; (3) integrating promotional effort across the brand; (4) increasing availability of technology to facilitate the process. The paper concludes with future research avenues and recommendations.

Jaeger is a household name in the UK, and increasingly internationally. This case study details Jaeger's history, highlights the importance of appointing a brand manager, and examines past mistakes and present policies.

The purpose of this paper is to highlight the importance of the relationship between brand management and channel management in the market for international branded apparel, in particular the creation of manufacturer dominated retail outlets. It draws attention to the need for manufacturers to examine carefully their distribution strategies as a means of protecting the investment that has taken place in order to create these internationally recognised brand names, eg Liz Clairborne, Berkertex, Austin Reed, Levi, Jaeger and Alexon. In developing their own distribution outlets, significant benefits can be gained that give greater protection to the brand, and prevent the brand dilution that takes place when merchandise is sold through secondary outlets, eg market stalls and small independents.

A study in the retail market entry strategy of a major UK manufacturer which highlights the difficulties of forward vertical integration, conflict with other retail customers, and heralds a complete restructuring of the company, as the joint venture in retailing takes time and capital to establish.

Details how the Lewis family took Lewis Separates (formed in 1954), repositioned it as the fashion store, Chelsea Girl, to meet the demands of a fashion‐conscious, more affluent, younger society in the 1960s and 1970s; and have repositioned it again since 1988 by replacing Chelsea Girl with River Island and thereby attracted a wide market incorporating A to E socio‐economic groups and an age range of 16‐64 (there are plans to introduce lines for the 9‐14 age market). River Island′s success lies in providing value for money with good quality merchandise; using branding (including designer labels) effectively; supplying accessories; and striking store designs which are Victorian period, but each store is unique. The success of such a transformation is unprecedented and it would appear that River Island will be able to withstand the effects of the present recession.

Fashion marketing communications in the UK domestic arena has for the most part relied upon a combination of public relations, press office activity and a widespread presence, or distribution strategy. However, as the UK becomes saturated and government legislation precludes the further development of out‐of‐town shopping centres the fashion retail brands have looked towards continental Europe for expansion opportunities. Paris is often the first stop in the internationalisation process eastwards nevertheless despite its close proximity geographically the creation of brand awareness among French consumers is not an easy task.