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Enzo Berardesca,1 Adriana Bonfigli,2 Bernard Cribier,3 Frederic Flament,4 Marco Vicic,4 Delphine Kerob,5 Jerry Tan6 1Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology, University of Miami, Miami, FL, USA; 2ISPE, Milano, Italy; 3Clinique Dermatologique, University Hospital, Strasbourg, France; 4L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly-Larue, France; 5Laboratoires Vichy International, Levallois-Perret, France; 6Western University, Department of Medicine and Windsor Clinical Research Inc, Windsor, ON, CanadaCorrespondence: Enzo BerardescaPhillip Frost Department of Dermatology, University of Miami, Miami, FL, USATel +1 393486962500Email berardesca@berardesca.itObjective: This study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of M89 in patients with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin.Methods: Intra-individual study in a split-face design comparing after 30 days M89 twice daily and usual skin care in 20 adult subjects with rosacea and sensitive skin. M89 contains 89% Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) and 0.4% hyaluronic acid. It is hypoallergenic and contains no perfume and this convenes in rosacea. Contained minerals reinforce the natural defences of the skin in restoring the natural skin barrier, stimulating antioxidant activity and reducing inflammation, commonly observed in subjects with rosacea. Clinical evaluations included assessment of erythema, desquamation, papules and pustules, skin tightness, dryness, burning sensation, itching, stinging and stinging test as well as local tolerability. Instrumental evaluations included skin hydration and TEWL. Subject satisfaction was assessed at Days 15 and 30. Demodex density was assessed at Day 30.Results: A significant superiority of M89 over the standard skin care was observed for erythema, skin tightness and dryness (all P≤ 0.05) as early as Day 15, the skin stinging test was significantly in favour of M89 (P< 0.05 at Day 15 and P< 0.01 at Day 30) and for skin hydration (P< 0.0001) at Day 15 and 30 with no difference in mean Demodex density between M89 and usual skin care after 30 days. Tolerance was excellent and subject satisfaction very high.Conclusion: Study results concerning M89 are encouraging for its use either alone or as an adjuvant daily skin care to topical medication in patients with persistent centrofacial erythema of rosacea with no more than 3 papules and pustules.Keywords: rosacea, sensitive skin, Vichy volcanic mineralizing water, M89, split face

Frederic Flament,1 David Amar,2 Matthieu Forichon,3 Johanna Caron,4 Caroline Negre4 1L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clichy, France; 2L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China; 3Nous Avions Rendez-Vous, Lyon, France; 4L’Oréal, Levallois-Perret, FranceCorrespondence: Frederic FlamentL’Oréal Research and Innovation, 9 Rue Pierre Dreyfus, Clichy 92110, FranceTel +33149795334Fax +33149795142Email frederic.flament@rd.loreal.comObjective: To clinically evaluate the impacts of sun exposures on some facial signs of differently aged Chinese men with a distinct behavior vis à vis sun exposures.Methods: Two comparable cohorts of Chinese men (aged 18–75 years old), living in two cities (Shanghai, Hong Kong) were created according to their usual behavior towards sun exposure and through their variable use(s) of a photo-protective product, i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 127) and sun-phobic (N = 134). Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 13 facial signs that were further graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using a referential Skin Aging Atlas. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-classes, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and a photo-protecting product, when used.Results: Most facial signs, particularly wrinkles and skin texture, differentiated the two cohorts. Some others showed some erratic changes with age, albeit more pronounced at older ages. In contrast with previous results obtained in Chinese women, the changes observed in men were not only of a lessened severity but were undetected at early ages (

Background: Of all ultraviolet (UV) radiations reaching the earth, UVA1 rays have a higher potential of penetrating and producing clinically harmful consequences. While UV radiations up to 370 nm are well‐blocked by current sunscreens, a photoprotection gap remains for the UVA1 wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm. Objective: This study was to assess under outdoor summer conditions the impact on pigmentation and skin ageing signs of a protection against UVA1 using methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) filter added to a reference SPF50 sunscreen, in comparison with the same sunscreen without the MCE filter. Materials and Methods: This prospective randomized comparative intra‐individual study was conducted in 113 women in Brazil and China. Subjects had their face and two forearms exposed twice‐daily to a 1‐h outdoor sunlight exposure over 8 weeks. Before exposure, the SPF50 sunscreen containing 3% MCE was applied on one half‐face and one forearm and the same reference product without MCE on the other half‐face and forearm. Primary study endpoint was skin colour changes (chromametry). Other endpoints included expert panel grading of pigmentation and facial skin ageing, and naïve panel assessment of facial skin radiance and homogeneity. Results: After 8 weeks, the skin was darker on both forearms but the increase in sun‐induced pigmentation was smaller with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen. Expert panel evaluations showed no change in severity scores for pigmentation and a decreased severity scores for facial skin ageing in areas protected with the SPF50/MCE product: severity scores in areas protected with the SPF50 alone were either increased (pigmentation) or unchanged (skin ageing). Naïve panel evaluations of skin radiance and homogeneity showed statistically significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product. Conclusion: Overall, this study demonstrates that a protection with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen significantly reduces pigmentation and ageing signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Frederic Flament,1 Roland Bazin,2 Huixia Qiu,3 Chengda Ye,3 Sabine Laquieze,4 Virginie Rubert,1 Aurelie Decroux,1 Elisa Simonpietri,5 Bertrand Piot1 1L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France; 2RB Consult, Bievres, France; 3L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People's Republic of China; 4Private Dermatology Consultancy, Montpellier, France; 5Biotherm International, Levallois-Perret, France Abstract: A new reference clinical atlas of facial signs dedicated to photoaging was applied to 301 Chinese women of various ages through standardized photographs. Such approach aimed at better describing the facial changes induced by both real/chronological age and sun exposure and their respective impact on two subcohorts of different behavior with regard to sun exposure. A total of 28 various facial signs were individually graded according to their severity by a panel of experts, and a perceived apparent age of each subject was assessed. Results showed that the severity of major signs significantly increased rather linearly with age, with a higher rate in sun-exposed subjects as compared with subjects who regularly avoid sun exposure. The severity of facial signs, all impacted by sun exposure, better correlated with perceived apparent age than real/chronological age. The protocol used in the present work, similar to that previously applied to two cohorts of French women, assigned a greater impact of sun exposure in the facial aging signs of Asian women – all clinical signs are influenced by extrinsic factors – as compared with Caucasian women of comparable ages, likely related to much more intense ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Keywords: photoaging, clinical evaluation, UV, perceived apparent age, solar exposure

Frederic Flament,1 Ghislain Francois,1 Huixia Qiu,2 Chengda Ye,2 Tomoo Hanaya,3 Dominique Batisse,3 Suzy Cointereau-Chardon,1 Mirela Donato Gianeti Seixas,4 Susi Elaine Dal Belo,4 Roland Bazin5 1Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France; 2Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China; 3Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Tokyo, Japan; 4Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; 5RB Consult, Bievres, France Abstract: Skin pores (SP), as they are called by laymen, are common and benign features mostly located on the face (nose, cheeks, etc) that generate many aesthetic concerns or complaints. Despite the prevalence of skin pores, related literature is scarce. With the aim of describing the prevalence of skin pores and anatomic features among ethnic groups, a dermatoscopic instrument, using polarized lighting, coupled to a digital camera recorded the major features of skin pores (size, density, coverage) on the cheeks of 2,585 women in different countries and continents. A detection threshold of 250 µm, correlated to clinical scorings by experts, was input into a specific software to further allow for automatic counting of the SP density (N/cm2) and determination of their respective sizes in mm2. Integrating both criteria also led to establishing the relative part of the skin surface (as a percentage) that is actually covered by SP on cheeks. The results showed that the values of respective sizes, densities, and skin coverage: 1) were recorded in all studied subjects; 2) varied greatly with ethnicity; 3) plateaued with age in most cases; and 4) globally reflected self-assessment by subjects, in particular those who self-declare having “enlarged pores” like Brazilian women. Inversely, Chinese women were clearly distinct from other ethnicities in having very low density and sizes. Analyzing the present results suggests that facial skin pore’s morphology as perceived by human eye less result from functional criteria of associated appendages such as sebaceous glands. To what extent skin pores may be viewed as additional criteria of a photo-altered skin is an issue to be further addressed. Keywords: aging, clinical evaluation, ethnicity, imperfections, oily skin

Background: Data reflecting the impact of photoprotection on cutaneous aging are scarce and mostly limited to fair skin. Objective: To assess the effectiveness of a photoprotective product in counteracting the photoaging process in different skin phototypes over 1 year compared against a classical routine. Materials and Methods: Two hundred and ninety Brazilian women aged 30–65 years, with skin phototype II–VI were equally randomized in two groups. Group 1 kept on their routine whereas Group 2 applied, twice daily, a photoprotective product (SPF 60, PPD = 24.1) replacing the one they routinely used. Volunteers reported the duration of their daily sun‐exposure. Standardized photographs taken at D0 and D365 were analysed by 15 dermatologists to assess eight wrinkles and pigmentation signs. Results: A global increase in severity was reported which was significant for Group 1. This increase was lower in Group 2 where only half the signs showed significant worsening. In Group 2 versus Group 1, the increase in forehead wrinkles, marionette lines, wrinkles created by ptosis and size of dark spot was significantly (p < 0.05) decreased by 30%–50%. Conclusion: Daily application of a high photoprotective product significantly decreases the progression of skin aging signs after 1 year in skin phototypes II–VI. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Frederic Flament,1 Roland Bazin,2 Sabine Laquieze,3 Virginie Rubert,1 Elisa Simonpietri,4 Bertrand Piot1 1Department of Applied Research and Development, L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France; 2RB Consult, Bievres, France; 3Private Dermatology Consultancy Practice, Montpellier, France; 4BIOTHERM International, Levallois-Perret, France Objectives: Aging signs can be classified into four main categories: wrinkles/texture, lack of firmness of cutaneous tissues (ptosis), vascular disorders, and pigmentation heterogeneities. During a lifetime, skin will change in appearance and structure not only because of chronological and intrinsic processes but also due to several external factors such as gravity, sun and ultraviolet exposure, and high levels of pollution; or lifestyle factors that have important and obvious effects on skin aging, such as diet, tobacco, illness, or stress. The effect of these external factors leads to progressive degradations of tegument that appear with different kinetics. The aim of this study was to clinically quantify the effect of sun exposure on facial aging in terms of the appearance of new specific signs or in terms of increasing the classical signs of aging. Materials and methods: This study was carried out on 298 Caucasian women from 30 years to 78 years old. The participants were divided into two groups according to their sun exposure history: 157 women were characterized as sun-seeking, and the other 141 were classified as sun-phobic. This division was made possible by dermatologist grading of heliodermal status on the basis of several observations of classic criteria: wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation heterogeneities, vascular disorders, elastosis, and so on. This work was an opportunity to complete clinical photographic tools by adding in our portfolio new scales for signs observed in the two groups. Thus, 22 clinical parameters were investigated by a panel of twelve trained experts to characterize each woman's face regarding standardized photographic scales, and thus describe the aging process. Results: By calculating statistical correlations between the four clinical clusters (wrinkles/texture, ptosis, vascular disorders, and pigmentation disorders), and real age and apparent age on the one hand and heliodermal status on the other hand, we identified a link between each clinical cluster and aging and the photoaging process. By comparing evaluations of clinical signs between the two groups for each 10-year cluster, we demonstrated that whatever the age, a prevalence of pigmentation disorders for the sun-seeking group (ie, pigmentation) is strongly linked to ultraviolet exposure. Meanwhile, clinical signs of ptosis are linked more to chronological aging and do not present differences between the two groups, nor, therefore, photoaging. Wrinkles and texture are affected by the two aging processes. Finally, clinical signs of vascular disorders present no evolution with age. Conclusion: Clinical signs of aging are essentially influenced by extrinsic factors, especially sun exposure. Indeed UV exposure seems to be responsible for 80% of visible facial aging signs. Keywords: photoaging, clinical evaluation, wrinkles, ptosis, pigmentation, UV

Huixia Qiu,1 Frederic Flament,2 Xiaohui Long,1 Jun Wu,1 Mengzhi Xu,1 Didier Saint Leger,2 Helene Meaudre,2 Jerome Senee,1 Bertrand Piot,2 Roland Bazin2 1L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China; 2L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly, France Abstract: The facial skin tone of two groups of Chinese women from Shanghai was compared using standard colorimetric space techniques during a 6-month interval between January and July 2011. During the study period, one group of women (n = 40) applied a potent sun-protective cosmetic product daily, while the other group (n = 40) did not use any sun protection. The results, based on images taken using a standardized digital camera coupled to a spectroradiometer, showed that sun protection largely mitigated changes in the components of skin tone, ie, lightness, melanization, and individual typology angle parameters. The skin darkening process appeared to be reduced or prevented in the sun-protected group when compared with the control group. The sun-protected women had participated in an earlier study in 2008, which confirmed that seasonal skin darkening occurs from winter through summer in Shanghaiese women. Comparing the data obtained in the winters of 2008 and 2011, we were able to identify better the impact of 3 years of aging on the components of skin tone. Comparing data between seasons on the same women with (2011 study) and without (2008 study) sun protection highlights the role of the test product in preventing skin darkening. Keywords: skin tone, skin seasonal darkening, sun protection, aging

Objective: To evaluate the changes in certain ocular signs because of age, among Mexican women and to compare these with those previously obtained on women of other ethnicities. Material and methods: Photographs were taken of the faces of 203 Mexican women of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed us to focus and define nine ocular signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. Hence, the same protocol, previously used on 3240 women of four other ethnic origins (Caucasian: 600; Chinese: 990; Japanese: 1010; Indian: 300; African: 340), allowed us to compare the results obtained on Mexican women. Results: The severity of crow's feet wrinkles for Mexican women shows a more intense progression with age than those of women from other ancestries. The lower eyelid wrinkles of Mexican women, that show weak or erratic changes with time, were however found to have higher and significant severity at a young age. Pigmentation disorders of their ocular area were found less pronounced as compared to those of Asian or Indian women. Eye bags were observed with similar slight changes in all five ancestries. Conclusion: The present work confirms that the clinical signs of age for the female eye area develop differently depending on the ethnic origins of the volunteer. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]